Who likes the metal roofs on their cabins/houses and why? I am building a cabin and I am going to be installing a metal roof and was wondering how others like theirs and how difficult (valleys) it is to install? Actually I am considering putting one on the house we live in also. So if you have any pros and cons to offer that would be great.
Thanks
Mark
We have ribbed metal on our suburban house and our cabin. EWe did the house as it needed a new roo and we figured this would be the last roof we do. It saves us 10% on our home owner insurance. We chose metal for the cabin to facilitate snow slide off. Metal will also allow us to harvest water or drinking purposes if we follow that path.
The house roof was installed by a crew of pro roofers who installed roofs for a home contractor. It has 4 valleys but I never had to deal with that. The roofers used a power saw and snips. The cabin was done by the son of a friend.
The only con is you slide off easier. Oh and the other thing was that as soon as the metal was on the house roof that faces the TV station antennas on the mountain, the signal went to crap. Our antenna was in the attic. Now it's on the roof top.
If I had it to do over I would still go with metal on my cabin. My house has 40 yr arch shingles and when they go I will probably go with metal. As far as the valleys they are not a real problem to install. Get the valley metal and lay the roofing angled to that. Alot of accurate measurments needed to get the angle to be the same all the way down. Even with metal I used "ice guard" under the valley. If you are in a snow region then either invest in "snow birds" or not install gutters. I am planning on using an alternative to snow birds once I get the gutters installed.
Im getting close to my roof I was always planning on going with a metal roof but now Im thinking of ashphalt just because I want to be able to walk on it later and not slide right off.
What pitch Bob?
Our suburban house is 4:12. I have a pair of crepe rubber sole shoes that are reserved for nothing but walking on metal roofs. There's not much I need to access up there; the A/C and a vent stack I have to run the drain auger through once a year or two is about all. That and to inspect around the skylight flashing once a year.
The cabin is 5.5:12 and I am not as comfortable on it. I have installed some angle iron "cleats" where I climb to access the chimney for the wood stove. I have been meaning to take a picture or two and post in my cabin topic, but keep forgetting. d*
I have never heard a person, with a metal roof, say: "I wish I had installed a (asphalt shingle, cedar shake, fiber glass, tile, etc, etc.) roof".
There may be someone out there unhappy with their metal roof ... but I haven't talked with them.
Also most metal roofs qualify for the new energy tax credits up to $1500. I believe asphalt can, but it is not very common and I believe it costs more. Metal roofs can last indefinitely with painting and maintenance and the warranty is usually longer. Metal roofing cost only 20% more than asphalt for me.
Shingles are easier to handle and lay.
I actually think metal is faster to put down though. I like it a lot, and if I have a choice I'll never own a home without it. It might be a bit more expensive, but it sure looks great, holds up well to extreme weather, and sheds show very well.
Metal is great to work with, it just gets a little challenging as do it yourselfer with valleys and complex roof designs. I installed with just a standard roofing nailer an alternative composite shake( made out of recycled tires, hemp, pop bottles) called enviroshake on my urban home. Manufacturer claims an expected life expectancy of 100 years and offers a 50 year non prorated warranty(full replacement anytime in the 50 year period). It's comparible in price to cedar shakes.
The following is a pic from the manufactures website, not my house.
(http://www.enviroshake.com/images/gallery82.jpg)
Quote from: Squirl on October 21, 2009, 09:41:09 AM
Also most metal roofs qualify for the new energy tax credits up to $1500.
Depends on the color and ability to reflect heat I believe
that Enviroshake makes a good-looking roof, upa. I've been planning on using metal on my place when I build. I'll have to check out Enviroshake at the Home Show this weekend.
Quote from: MountainDon on October 20, 2009, 10:10:14 PM
What pitch Bob?
Our suburban house is 4:12. I have a pair of crepe rubber sole shoes that are reserved for nothing but walking on metal roofs. There's not much I need to access up there; the A/C and a vent stack I have to run the drain auger through once a year or two is about all. That and to inspect around the skylight flashing once a year.
The cabin is 5.5:12 and I am not as comfortable on it. I have installed some angle iron "cleats" where I climb to access the chimney for the wood stove. I have been meaning to take a picture or two and post in my cabin topic, but keep forgetting. d*
Its 4:12 where the loft is and 10:12 for the rest Ill try to post some pictures of it tomorrow.
10:12 :o !!! I wouldn't want anything to do with that. No, not me.
;D ;D
I think the forum should put a sticky that is a warning to new cabin builders the first warning 10:12 12:12 is really steep and your cabin will be really tall.
:) IMO, you can't beat 10/12 or 12/12 for looks or snow & rain dumping---only drawback is the difficulties posed by the steepness.
There are ways to deal with steepness on metal roofs. Sailors go aloft all the time safely. The best reason is rainwater tastes so good off a painted metal roof. Even snowmelt can be pretty good if it warms up a little......
There is more advantages of going to a 10/12 or 12/12 than disadvantages when considering headroom. The main disadvantage is the steepness. But that is normally only during installation. After that how many times to you get up onto your roof after the installation? I really don't need to get on the roof as I know the extra pitch will shed water alot better than a lower pitch. Another disadvantage is the snow in regions who have it in association with gutters. But there are fixes for about everything. Diverters, snow birds and the like. Also with metal there is no repairing loose shingles or any opening that water may seep into.
I also like metal. Do it once and you are done for the next 100 or so years.
There are also now color choices that are as reflective as white and silver. When we built we picked a forest green over a lite color so the house would blend in and keep the locals from noticing us. Nasa has developed thru contractors additives in the paint that make darker colors as reflective as the lighter ones. I have even seen paint you can buy to change the color of an existing and get the benefit of this technology.
That's probably a good choice, Dave. I hear some of the locals are pretty crazy. [crz]
Quote from: glenn kangiser on October 29, 2009, 11:06:19 PM
That's probably a good choice, Dave. I hear some of the locals are pretty crazy. [crz]
Right! The thing now is we are the people we warned ourselves about ???
I know I'm scared....
I heard about me over the fire scanner during the Telegraph Fire... "A crazy guy with guns and a tractor.... " [waiting]
On either end of the roof predrill a hole, preferbly in the ridge, but if you have trusses, a truss would work just as well. Put a real beefy eyelet into each hole. Run a piece of cable between the two eyelets. Cable clamp both ends making sure not to saddle a dead horse. Three clamps on each end. Have that cable as tight as humanly possible.
Now you need a carribeaner (the ones mountain cliimbers use) Hook that on to the cable. Hanging from the carribeaner is whatever size rope you want. This is your life rope. Put loops in the rope, knots, or tie the end around your waist.
It's like a dog run on top of your house. It allows the rope to be above you at all times. We did a metal roof with this method. We left the run up there till we were ready for ridge metal. All the panels and gable trim were put on without anyone falling.
Metal roofs are fire retardants, oh and did I mention they are fire retardants? I'm happy with them. I watched my folk's chalet (a REALLY steep roof) cedar shake roof age over 28 years and was hugely relieved when it was decided to include an allowance for replacing it in the sale price, rather than having it done (i.e.; all heads swivel toward me) before the sale.
Quote from: considerations on November 01, 2009, 02:24:15 PM
Metal roofs are fire retardants, oh and did I mention they are fire retardants? I'm happy with them. I watched my folk's chalet (a REALLY steep roof) cedar shake roof age over 28 years and was hugely relieved when it was decided to include an allowance for replacing it in the sale price, rather than having it done (i.e.; all heads swivel toward me) before the sale.
To be class A rated a metal roof needs fiberglass underlayment instead of Tar Paper. Not sure if this makes sense or at least it has not unless someone tells me why?
If there is an vented air-gap between the tar paper and the metal roofing, it could become quite a torch in the right situation. An air gap because of wooden purlins and furring would be very risky. However: if the roof metal style is a flat type, not corrugated, and sits directly on the paper there would probably not be much risk .... but the fire code is probably too rigid to allow even this.
Thanks JRR for your input. I can see your point of the airspace being a problem and the code being too rigid in other cases where a flat metal roof is on tar paper on sheathing.
I have read a lot about metal roofing on here, and I think its really the only way to go... But I am a bit confused... My local building store, begins with a H and ends in a T (2 words) told me that I should NOT put any tar paper down on the roof and then the metal. They said to just put some strapping on and attach the roof right to that... Any one care to shed some light? ;)
Quote from: Dave Sparks on November 05, 2009, 03:11:20 PM
Thanks JRR for your input. I can see your point of the airspace being a problem and the code being too rigid in other cases where a flat metal roof is on tar paper on sheathing.
FWIW, our insurance company gave us a discounted premium. Their only requirements were that the old roofing material be removed before the metal was installed. No mention at all about what was required for underlayment.
Quote from: grover2044 on November 05, 2009, 03:26:56 PM
I have read a lot about metal roofing on here, and I think its really the only way to go... But I am a bit confused... My local building store, begins with a H and ends in a T (2 words) told me that I should NOT put any tar paper down on the roof and then the metal. They said to just put some strapping on and attach the roof right to that... Any one care to shed some light? ;)
That will work in a barn , but a house or barn with damp materials such as vegetables stored will need the barrier or insulation. The metal cools fast and the warm moist air inside will condense enough water out to rain inside - it will run down and drip from the purlins or strapping.
One member here had to spray foam insulation after the tarpaper was left out by her builder, in order to pass inspection - or tear the roof off and put it in.
I built a farm building for a customer who stored sweet potatoes in it. The rain from the potato moisture was falling on them and wetting them causing mold. He had to insulate to get away from it.
The HD guy only knew a little of what he was talking about but was wrong for a house.
Thanks for the reply Glenn.... So the proper house method would be sheathing, tar paper and then roof? Or is there still a need for the strapping as well...
From what I see here, if the roof is sheathed, then has underlayment (tar paper or synthetic) then the metal roofing is installed right flat on top of that. No strapping or furring. That's what I would do (did) unless the metal roofing manufacturer said otherwise.
For residential the preferred method is over a solid deck. If wood purlins are acid producing, like oak, they require tarpaper or other to make a barrier between the purlin and metal. I can't think of a reason not to use tarpaper. I'm not a real fan of metal.
Quote from: Don_P on November 06, 2009, 11:49:28 AM
.... I'm not a real fan of metal....
Not even Metallica? ... how 'bout Led Zep?
...(Sorry, the Devil made me do it!)
It takes a real class act to make it to a ripe old age :D