14x24 on 5 Acres in Mounds, Oklahoma (2nd CountryPlan Build)

Started by ajbremer, March 21, 2016, 05:46:04 AM

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ajbremer

#75
It's been just over 4 years since I did my first CountryPlan Happy Dance on our 20x30. Soon
I'll Disco Finger Point on our 14x24!

(Pic coming soon)

Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

MountainDon

#76
Quote from: ajbremer on April 06, 2016, 11:43:10 PM
Wednesday - April 6th, 2016

Went to Lowes to pick up more concrete, another tube, and a 4x6 post. I noticed that those
Quikrete Form Tubes are different sizes and fit into one another - it seems weird. They all
have the same price and number but their diameters are different. Here is a pic of 3 of
them fitting into one another:

Here's the price of the 2x6x12 footers that I plan to use for the walls:




Slight difference in size makes no real difference to end use but they can ship 3 in the space of one; cheaper.


What does the use of 12 foot walls mean? Big tall ceiling? Loft floor or second floor? How will the wall tops be tied together? Rafter ties at wall tops or will there be a ridge beam as was done in your 20x30? You are modifying the original little house plan and that may place additional stress on certain components.  ???
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


ajbremer

Good morning Don and thank you again.

Yes, I will be using rafter ties to support the 12 foot walls and the loft will drop down 4 feet to get nice headroom up there.
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

ajbremer

#78
Thursday Evening - April 7th, 2016

Pier #9 is done - it's on the left. But...look what's in the way at pier hole number 10, an oil pipe.



Come to find out, it's an old one and I was told that it'd be best not to cut it but just dig a few inches away
from it and then pour...ok.
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

MountainDon

Quote from: ajbremer on April 07, 2016, 11:05:56 AM


Yes, I will be using rafter ties to support the 12 foot walls and the loft will drop down 4 feet to get nice headroom up there.

...with the rafter ties being attached to what or where?  Rafter ties are positioned correctly when attached to the wall top plates or when located no higher than the lower 1/3 of the triangle formed by the rafters and the wall tops.  So I'm puzzled how the "nice headroom up there" will be achieved. ???


Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


ajbremer

Thursday - April 7th, 2016

My mistake Don, there's no room where there's rafter ties in a loft.

We have decided to 'try' to go with 10' walls, drop the loft floor down 2 feet and create
a dormer on each side of the loft...just like this country plan 14x24.

The main reason for us wanting to do this is so that we can have windows not only
on the loft gable end but on each side of the wall up there.

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=13714.0
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

ajbremer

#81
Friday - April 8th, 2016

Got a 200+ gallon water container and it fit in my little Ford Festiva. I'll use
it in my rain catchment system:

Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

azgreg


ajbremer

Friday - April 8th, 2016

Digging these pier holes needs to be fun, we need to have fun building our CountryPlan house and we need to have
fun memories of it. I had to dig pier hole #10 wider than normal because I ran into an old well pipe so I had some
fun - here's the vid:

Here's me getting in the hole:

https://youtu.be/h9ptaNb0e3E

And now in the hole:

https://youtu.be/-zahMWYondI
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.


ajbremer

Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

ajbremer

#85
Pier 10 Poured

Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

ajbremer

#86
Pier 10 Totally Completed (I was inside this hole)

Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

ajbremer

Friday - April 8th, 2016

One off the subject thing I wanted to mention is that I really miss playing my guitar since I've started
being so busy living off grid and then deciding to build CountryPlan #2. It'll be great to get my little home
recording studio setup once again.

Here's me trying to play Chet Atkins tune called, "Snowbird":

https://youtu.be/M_4S_7wLXQw
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.



ajbremer

Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

ajbremer

#90
Sunday - April 10th, 2016

Got Pier #11 totally finished late last night, only one more to go and then it's time to get those
beams together.



My plan is to get 2x6's that are 12 feet long and sandwich 1/2" plywood in-between
them to make the beams 3 1/2" wide just like the posts width. I'm thinking I will screw and nail the
beams together, cut all post heights level, and then set the beams on top of the post. I will stabilize
the posts on top of the beams by way of 16" long 2x4's on each side and then screw and bolt them.
Something like this:

(Pic coming soon)

Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

Adam Roby

Are you going to use pressure treated for the 2x6 beams or conventional lumber?  Marine plywood or standard?

I imagine you are high enough off the ground (I think most say over 18" then not needed), and the beam will not be in contact with the elements so perhaps no PT is required.  In fact, the PT twists and is made of more porous wood so for a beam I would think the standard lumber would be stronger. 

Is this a similar technique you used on the first build (where you are doing your dance of joy)?  At what point do you add the bracing?
Finally (sorry for all the questions), have you noticed any lateral movement in your first build (posts leaning out of plumb)?

(That poor Festiva!  I'll bet it's seen more work than many pickups do in their lifetime.)   :)

Redoverfarm

Quote from: ajbremer on April 10, 2016, 07:14:05 AM
Sunday - April 10th, 2016



My plan is to get 2x6's that are 12 feet long and sandwich 1/2" plywood in-between
them to make the beams 3 1/2" wide just like the posts width. I'm thinking I will screw and nail the
beams together, cut all post heights level, and then set the beams on top of the post. I will stabilize
the posts on top of the beams by way of 16" long 2x4's on each side and then screw and bolt them.
Something like this:



There is nothing preventing you from using 2X6 for your connection between the beam and the post.  In fact it would give you a little more support.  You can use the complete 5-1/2" on your beam and then just center it on your post 3-1/2".  Don't go short on the length.  I would extend the portion of the post by at least 12".  That will give you more area to fasten.

ajbremer

#93
Quote from: Adam Roby on April 10, 2016, 07:56:06 AM
Are you going to use pressure treated for the 2x6 beams or conventional lumber?

Thanks for posting Adam! I see no problem using untreated wood from here on up. I'll be over 18" from the
ground.

Quote from: Adam Roby on April 10, 2016, 07:56:06 AM
Is this a similar technique you used on the first build (where you are doing your dance of joy)?

Yes, this build is pretty similar. I dug all 15 pier holes by hand and a little deeper on my 20x30 build
and I also used some square steel posts on the corners and 2 more in the middle and then 9 steel
4x4x1/4 angle iron posts.

Quote from: Adam Roby on April 10, 2016, 07:56:06 AM
At what point do you add the bracing?

The floor on this 14x20 will cantilever out 2 feet on all 4 sides so I figure that I'll put my braces up right after I
get done with the subfloor.

Here's a pic of my 20x30 build and this was around 5 1/2 years ago and it hasn't moved
at all (last time I lived there and check it...before I sold the place around 4 or 5 months ago )

(Pic coming soon)
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

ajbremer

Thanks for posting Redoverfarm and letting me know about using 2x6's instead of the 2x4's that I had in mind. Your
help is really appreciated.

I'm about ready to go out there and dig my last pier hole, I'll post again soon.
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.


ajbremer

Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

Redoverfarm

#96
Quote from: ajbremer on April 10, 2016, 04:19:55 PM
Thanks for posting Redoverfarm and letting me know about using 2x6's instead of the 2x4's that I had in mind. Your
help is really appreciated.

I'm about ready to go out there and dig my last pier hole, I'll post again soon.

AJ the easiest way to line up the 2X post/beam support is to cut the piece of scrap 2X material the same thickness of the overhanging 2X6 which would be about 1".  When the time comes just hold it up against the post and line up one edge of the 2X6 to where it is flush.  Then it will be centered on your post without the task of measuring center on each.

If you cut that scrap the same length as what will be hanging down on your post then it should be right elevation wise and flush with the top edge of your beam. So in essence with that scrap resting against your post and pushed up to the bottom of the beam you will be set with the horizontal and vertical alignment.   Actually you could pre attach a couple to the post on the same side which would keep you beam from sliding off when it comes time to set the beam upon your post.

ajbremer

Thank you John,

I'm having trouble understanding what you've explained. I had the impression that all I have to do is put my beams together making sure that I stagger the joints and that each joint is in a position where it will rest on a post. I plan to clamp or temporarily screw the beam on the side of the posts, level them, and then mark the posts where they need to be cut to the proper height. Once the top of all posts are cut, I then simply lay the beam on top and then attach those 2x6 scrap pieces on each side of each post.

I don't know what you mean by overhanging 2x6
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

Redoverfarm

Quote from: ajbremer on April 11, 2016, 10:21:02 AM
Thank you John,

I'm having trouble understanding what you've explained. I had the impression that all I have to do is put my beams together making sure that I stagger the joints and that each joint is in a position where it will rest on a post. I plan to clamp or temporarily screw the beam on the side of the posts, level them, and then mark the posts where they need to be cut to the proper height. Once the top of all posts are cut, I then simply lay the beam on top and then attach those 2x6 scrap pieces on each side of each post.

I don't know what you mean by overhanging 2x6

AJ the overhang is what I am calling the part of the 2X6 (5-1/2") gusset (or scrap pieces that you are referring to) that extends out past the 4X4 post(3-1/2") on each side when you attach it to the beam & post.   

ajbremer

Monday - April 11th, 2016

Thanks again John, I totally get it now!

It took me a bit of deep thought to catch everything you meant but I worked
it out in my head step by step and now I get it. That's a cool idea, I definetly
didn't think about doing that. Anything 1" thick would work though right?
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.