Chimney Route

Started by retiredmarine, February 19, 2019, 08:34:47 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

retiredmarine

The wood stove I'm planning to install in the small house will be located at one of the gable ends. Because of its placement I was going to offset the location where the chimney penetrates the roof by about 15 in. However  I've recently begun kicking around the idea of going straight up and then exiting the house through the gable wall as close to the ceiling as possible. This way I won't have to cut a hole in the roof. I will have to cut the gable overhang but I'm good with that. I'd like to keep the chimney inside as ling as I can to take advantage of the heat.  So it would come up out of the stove, to almost the ceiling and then turn 90 degrees to go out the wall behind it, turn another 90 degrees to the outside.  Thoughts?

NathanS

I lean toward straight up through the roof to guarantee the best draft you can possibly get. I can understand trying to avoid roofing penetrations though. I wish I had run my plumbing vent through the gable instead of the roof. However, the stainless steel boot for the woodstove I think would not leak even without the caulk, and I also believe it will outlast the rest of the steel roof. Just my opinion.

Lots of people do just fine with the chimney exiting the side wall, it's just a little harder to get the fire started. I would also compare costs, it's probably a bit less to go straight up.


retiredmarine

Nathan,

The draft was the only thing I was worried about. The challenges of being so close to the ridge with the boot and and corrugation (Ondura) made me start thinking about the gable exit high on the wall.

NathanS

Gotcha. I wouldn't want it too close to the ridge cap either, and definitely not having to cut off any of the cap to make way for the flashing boot.

They do also make black pipe offsets, so if you want your stove dead center you can run it up however many feet, and then use two 45s to get it to where it needs to exit the roof.



MountainDon

Cleaning is easier with a straight run through the roof. 

There are silicone boots for roof penetrations that work very well with metal roofing, if metal roofing in being used.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


retiredmarine

The current plan includes 2 - 45's and a 12 inch extension allowing me to offset the ridge by about 15 in.  I thought about the cleaning too, with the offset it will be a bit harder but not as hard as 90's going out the wall. Guess I'll just have to get over the thought of cutting a hole in the roof..  :(

redside

It would be nice to not have any offsets for cleaning.  I saw you are planning on using trusses.  Why not go straight up through the center of the ridge?  Excel has an adjustable peak flashing that might work depending on your layout.

retiredmarine

Well there's an interesting idea. Anyone have any experience with ridge exits? How about this Excel company?

Adam Roby

I'm in the process of planning my chimney route as well. 
I'm opting to go out the side of the building so that I can have a T joint there, making the cleaning process much easier (I think).
I am terrified of heights, so being able to work from the ground is a major bonus for me.  I don't know if this passes fire safety standards or what, but its what I am considering at the moment.



Don_P

Adam, 2' above the highest point within 10'  is a minimum, above the ridge is much better to avoid downdrafts as the wind eddies over the ridge. Snow sliding off the roof is another issue, I need to go put the pipe back up on the shop, sliding snow took it out.

I like to put them just under the ridge so that the upper edge of the chimney flashing is under the ridge cap. Ondura... look up customer satisfaction.

Adam Roby

Thanks for the warning Don.  I can easily add one more 2' pipe, I was just worried about it being too tall and not being able to support it properly.  I did not consider the snow falling as a potential threat. 

retiredmarine

Quote from: retiredmarine on February 19, 2019, 05:29:44 PM
Well there's an interesting idea. Anyone have any experience with ridge exits? How about this Excel company?

Well after a morning on the phone it's amazing how many of these companies only off the through the peak option in Canada, they won't even export it.  And when I do find it offered here, it lacks any sort of trim piece for inside the structure to seal around the chimney pipe as it goes through the ceiling.  Still waiting to hear back from Excell to see if they will sell the flashing here and to see if they have a trim piece. Other wise it's going to be an offset with a couple of 45's I think.

ChugiakTinkerer

I'll echo both of Don_P's concerns. 

Adam, snow sliding off and taking out the stovepipe was my first concern on seeing your sketch.  You can add a snow wedge that should divert most of the snow.  Better yet would be to place it on a gable end.  For our 12x16 cabin I am considering having the stovepipe exit the gable end wall and then going up outside the wall and penetrating the roof through the rake overhang.

Retiredmarine, my awareness of Ondura is limited to what I've read on the web.  The product may be perfect for your needs, but please check out what some other homeowners have to say about its utility and durability.
My cabin build thread: Alaskan remote 16x28 1.5 story

redside

I think North Country Stoves in Anchorage sells the Excel brand.  You could give them a call and see if they would ship it to you.  You can always PM me and I will see what I can do if no one is able to ship to you.   


retiredmarine

#14
Quote from: redside on February 23, 2019, 02:15:29 PM
I think North Country Stoves in Anchorage sells the Excel brand.  You could give them a call and see if they would ship it to you.  You can always PM me and I will see what I can do if no one is able to ship to you.

Thanks! I think I found one at WoodlandDirect (https://www.woodlanddirect.com/8-Champion-Vented-Peak-Flashing#252Material%3AGalvalume) and I believe simply by cutting the existing flat ceiling trip piece in half I can re-purpose it for the inside peak.  This might be just the answer I need to keep the run straight up.  Thanks! This forum is a great source!

Or this one https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/chimney-pipes/class-a-insulated-chimney-pipes/rock-vent-class-a-chimney-systems/rock-vent-vented-peak-flashing.php#reviews