VICTORIA FRAMING

[CREATIVE1]

I've been working with a designer/draftsman to make my plans "pretty" for submission.  The major changes to the plan are

1.  Knee walls about a foot higher upstairs to accommodate full code stairs in the kitchen wing.

2.  House is two feet deeper in the back to allow for walk space to steps (kitchen slid back two feet)

3.  Wing is now taller to allow for a bigger loft and 14 feet by 14 feet (not 12 x 14) because of the other changes.

The designer is upping my construction costs by I THINK going beyond code on the lumber dimensions.  He has 2 x 12's in the main wing ceiling, for example. I looked at the framing calculators and from them I think 10 x 2's of douglas fir is all I'd need at most. I don't have all his other changes (sketchy info so far), but the house was already engineered for Washington and his changes so far weren't made.  I do need to build for 55 pound snow load, but I think that's mainly reflected in the 24" X 6" main beam.
So--
I noticed in the green Victoria example on this site that the beams in the living room were running from the gable end.  Any comments about that?  I think it looks really good.

So--any ideas how to deal with this? He does work with his own engineer, so any thoughts about this also?

[glenn kangiser]

Only to discuss it with him and ask if you can use the lighter framing.

[ScottA]

The overkill factor is pretty common. It covers the designers rear end and it doesn't cost him a dime.

[CREATIVE1]

Yeah, I've noticed that.  But still fighting!

[CREATIVE1]

Reduced the main beam to 18' x 6", and now it's split at about 12 feet/ 18 feet.  I'm sure my crew will appreciate this.  Fewer hernias fer shure.