Stud plan.

Started by schiada, September 28, 2011, 02:32:11 PM

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schiada

Could some of you have a look at this set of stud plans?
Thanks Randall.







PEG688



Looks good! Are you going up 40 stories or so?   The double and triple joists under the door and window king studs is way over kill , but it sure looks pretty in the drawings.  Nice CAD work!

Aligning the studs with the joist is also over kill , but again it looks nice, but seldom,  in a small cabin would it be required , or essential to a strong small building. 

  There are many cases where engineers would require such alignment , or more likely what we call "squash blocks" in point load situations. I don't see any need for it in a small building 1 1/2 story type building John has on his site.   


  But again it looks good and the CAD work is very nice.

Specifically what are you building?  How many stories , what pitch roof , what type of sheathing, what type roofing , tile or slate for instance adds more weight then say metal roofing, so rafter spacing and roof sheathing requirements might change.

Are you in a snow load area, high wind exposure , earthquake zone? 

All these things play a part in design , some what.   
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .


Squirl

Great start.

I can't tell the span/spacing from the pictures.  Are they 16" or 24" O/C?  The headers may be spanning too far for one jack stud.  This is dependent on a few factors.  You can find a guide to header sizing and jack stud requirements here:
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=10511.0  Even with my little 1 story I decided to go with a double jack stud so I had the option to add a second floor in the future.

Based on the overhang of the double top plate on the third picture that is what I like to call the "inside" or "short" wall.  I don't know if that is proper terminology. It is the wall that is does not extend all the way out to the corners of the building because the other two walls do.  I framed a few buildings starting the stud spacing from the front of this wall.  I figured out if I start the second stud of this wall at the proper sheathing distance from the end of the building it saves a massive amount of cutting, fitting, and waste when sheathing.  So for example, if you are using 2x6 studs spaced 24" on center, start the second stud in at 24" from the corner and space all the rest of the studs at 24" from there.  The first stud will be placed at 5.5" from the corner of the building with a distance between the first and second studs of 16.25".  Since no piece of sheathing should be less than 24" wide, it should never be a problem.  This way when you run the sheathing from the corner of the building tying the two walls together the edge will always fall over a stud with no cutting.

I'm also not sure if you need to double stud the ends.  Also double check your studs underneath your windows.  Because of the headers these will only be holding the weight of the window.  Double studding these is extreme overkill and a waste of lumber.  Some sides under the windows you don't have any support at all.

Squirl

There are also large headers above each window for all four walls.  Are you going with a hip roof?

schiada

First, Thanks! :)
1 1/2 story  loft.Removed 10' from Johns plans. If I build 400Sf.or less no permit.And call it a shead. ::) Will need permits for water and electric.
16" O/C  I never can find the studs at 16" Or 24"? So if I am going to build it they will be their!
18" overhang
2x6 letin ledger (in the gray running the lenght )
Gambrel Steel roof.
The land gets maybe 4" to 8" of snow-------- a YEAR! ::) May last 3 days??
Some wind but under 30 MPH. I am on the backside of a ridge.So out of the wind for the most part.
Good point on the nonload walls. Will need to pull the  large headers  d*


Ernest T. Bass

I know a lot of framers put cripples under each end of a rough window sill, but I don't really see the point... If you assemble the jacks to either side of the sill first, you'll get good nail penetration into the ends of the sill, and then the sheathing ties everything together further and will bear weight that is applied to the sill.

I'm not sure if I'm understanding your corners correctly (they look boxed in), but you might want to think in terms of easy insulating later on.

Our family's homestead adventure blog; sharing the goodness and fun!

schiada


schiada

Note to self, add  insulating to ends before sheating. d* Good point.

PEG688

Quote from: schiada on September 28, 2011, 06:16:43 PM
Note to self, add  insulating to ends before sheating. d* Good point.

Use "L" shaped outside corners and partition backers , better for insulation factor.

If your worried about having something to nail your corner boards to do a modified "U" , a 2x6 corner stud , a 2x6 inner backer stud , and a outer 2x4  to provide backing for the siding / outside corner board. You can still insulate in a normal fashion behind outside corners and partition backers.   

  Headers 8 feet and longer requires two trimmers on each end.   

If that square-ish thing in the bath room is a toilet,  you should kick those two joist off layout so you don't have to head out the joist you'll have to cut to get the drain line in place.   You can always add one joist if your worried about the slight over span you'll create in the one bay.   
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .


Rob_O

PEG is correct, you can save about $100 on wood cutting out the unnecessary studs

Read all about it here http://apps1.eere.energy.gov/buildings/publications/pdfs/building_america/26449.pdf
"Hey Y'all, watch this..."

PEG688

Quote from: schiada on September 28, 2011, 06:11:50 PM
Maybe floor plan?



On  your long walls pull your layout from the outside corner , this way your corner sheathing piece is a full sheet , conforms to the IRC and well it's just better way to frame.

Inside the sheet rock can be cut to get into  layout.   
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

schiada

Drawing update. Let me know what you see? Thanks! ???







The big opening is for a barn door,it will slide to the side on track at top..

Squirl

I see something connected to the headers for the windows, but no jack studs.  They would need at lease one stud on each side of the header.  Like you have for the door

MountainDon

...or the parts made by Simpson for the purpose. HH header hangers



Are those ledgers for an upper level on the longer sides? What sort of roof? Rafters exert outward horizontal loads that require consideration.

It would be nice to see dimensions on the drawings as it saves time instead of having to search the text for even the length and width of the building.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


schiada

Thanks Don.Yes a loft floor.this will be a cut down 1 1/2 story . 20'x20'.
Yes will be using the simpson bracket.
Roof will be gambrel.

Don_P

IIRC if it is more then 2' from top plate to the opening even on non load walls a header is req'd. They do show a boxed header in the wall chapter.

schiada

Don could you look at the first plans . With what you posted it seems that would be the way to do all the window openings?

PEG688

Quote from: schiada on September 29, 2011, 07:00:22 PM
Don could you look at the first plans . With what you posted it seems that would be the way to do all the window openings?


I'd say yes , I'm not sure where you went with the second group of images / drawings.
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

Rob_O

#18
Quote from: PEG688 on September 29, 2011, 07:57:02 PM

I'm not sure where you went with the second group of images / drawings.

I believe he was trying to implement the framing techniques from the link I posted and got a little confused.

schiada:You are on the right track. Start with the basic box with a roof and every time you have to put a hole in the side of that box you have to distribute the load from above to either side of that hole. That's what the header and jack studs do. Maybe that helps explain it better?
"Hey Y'all, watch this..."

PEG688

Quote from: Rob_O on September 29, 2011, 08:07:43 PM
I believe he was trying to implement the framing techniques from the link I posted and got a little confused.

schiada:You are on the right track. Start with the basic box with a roof and every time you have to put a hole in the side of that box you have to distribute the load from above to either side of that hole. That's what the header and jack studs do. Maybe that helps explain it better?

Ah, I see. I'm not a fan of , whats it called OVE framing. I see to many issues with nailing or attaching things inside building as it is. Base , casing , chair rail , crown, door jambs , etc etc. 

  I'd rather not build that way, set in my ways I guess. 
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .


Rob_O

Quote from: PEG688 on September 29, 2011, 09:01:14 PM
Ah, I see. I'm not a fan of , whats it called OVE framing. I see to many issues with nailing or attaching things inside building as it is. Base , casing , chair rail , crown, door jambs , etc etc.  

 I'd rather not build that way, set in my ways I guess.  

The architect didn't tell the draftsman that the designer wanted beadboard and chair rail so the framing crew didn't know they needed to put in a nailer and now the trim people are pissed? Never happens!  d*
"Hey Y'all, watch this..."

schiada

Thanks all! I guess I will go back to the 60's when I came from? ::) I did not like the steel parts anyway.

Now what about the ends of the long and the short walls. ??? Seemed a little short on wood?

MountainDon

Quote from: schiada on September 29, 2011, 11:01:23 PM

Now what about the ends of the long and the short walls. ??? Seemed a little short on wood?

Not sure what you mean?  This works for corners, ...





Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Ernest T. Bass

Nice pic of my favorite corner, Don. And just to rephrase what others have already pointed out; when you mark the layout for that shorter inside wall, simply set the sill in place and pull your tape measure from the outside edge of the longer wall. Your OSB will line up and tie the corner together.

Our family's homestead adventure blog; sharing the goodness and fun!

schiada

So,some more work with ends and some OSB. What do you think? Also up or down with the OSB? ???


Need to fix one corner! My Bad!! d*