Rain screen wall

Started by Canvasman, March 19, 2011, 08:33:17 AM

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Canvasman

Has anyone actually done there siding this way? I was looking into the cor a vent, siding vent for at the bottom of the wall, then buying 3/8 cdx, ripping 2 inch wide pieces  for furring strips, and nailing those thru the tyvek and 1 inch foam. Then attaching 11/16 by 8 beveled cedar siding.
I search thru the past posts and found people talking about it, but only one builder in Russia who did this.
Thanks.
Eric

PEG688

#1
 The place we're wrapping up now has a rain screen wall. We used some plastic batten that are extruded so the batten itself drains and is vented. The house has metal siding screwed to it / thru it into the sheathing behind the batten.


 I'd say for what you plan on doing with 1" foam behind your building wrap I'd either use pressure treated 5/8" ply that you could nail the siding to   or at minimum 1/2" thick PT ply with nails long enough to catch the stud.

The 3/8" thickness would be enough space to prevent wicking of moisture form the  wrap to the siding back side.


 Is the core vent your using recommending 3/8" ply or spacing?   I'd think they'd want 1/2".


 If you do it this way you still need to pay attention to the details of leading the water out to the face of the building wrap, above doors and windows , eave over framing etc.

We got in a bit of a money issue as we didn't allow enough time for the added steps/ labor time to go over the wall twice, basically that's what your doing labor wise , covering the same wall space twice for what appears to the client as "one system" /  application / process.

  But the wrap is one time over the wall then you go back and batten the wall , then you sub wrap the windows , set the windows , etc . So it's more work = more $$$ IF your paying to have it done . Or if your DIYS it's still MORE time , something to consider anyway.

 All in all I think it's a good idea, the theory is sound , or the process is sound .


Your plywood battens should be PT for sure.    
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .


PEG688



Links to the stuff we used:

  http://www.vaproshield.com/products/rainscreen/


  http://www.vaproshield.com/products/wrapshield/

Nice stuff but spendy. Well thought out systems thorough .

When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

MushCreek

What do you mean by 'spendy'? Could you give some approximate pricing? Also- Can you (or would you) hang fiber-cement siding from it? How would you attach it?
Jay

I'm not poor- I'm financially underpowered.

Canvasman

#4
I take it, that I'm beyond doing the rain screen now that my windows are in?
This is detail of cor a vent. http://www.cor-a-vent.com/pdf/cor-sv3.pdf
Thanks


PEG688

Quote from: MushCreek on March 20, 2011, 07:30:26 AM
What do you mean by 'spendy'? Could you give some approximate pricing? Also- Can you (or would you) hang fiber-cement siding from it? How would you attach it?

The paper we used came in 5 x100 rolls and IIRC one roll was $400.00 , so at least double what Tyvek or Typar .  The plastic battens where again IIRC $2.00 a LF or so. 

I'm sure you could email the company thru the link I posted and get pricing and shipping to get a accurate price break down for your project. The sales guy Kevin drove our stuff up to us as we're only 100 miles or so from Gig Harbor. So what we paid wand what you'd pay could be way different.

  Yes you could hang Hardi off it , you'd just need to use nails long enough to pass thru the batten into your studs.
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

PEG688

Quote from: Canvasman on March 20, 2011, 08:24:42 AM


I take it, that I'm beyond doing the rain screen now that my windows are in?




This is detail of cor a vent. http://www.cor-a-vent.com/pdf/cor-sv3.pdf
Thanks



  Yes,  I'd say so. We set our windows on 1/2" PT ply , keeping the windows in a "normal" plane for exterior detailing.

  I can't open PDF's so I'll go look at cor-a-vents    stuff again. I've looked at it before , but a review is in order.

  You could I guess use some thick window trim and still accommodate the R/S wall , we had a Architect calling the shots some what and the client , the siding we where using was a corrugated metal , they worry was condensation on the back side touching the building wrap and water bridging the paper  getting to the sheathing. I ligit concern IMO.


Hardi could do the same thing, I expect we'll be remodeling buildings due to exactly this issue in a few more years after Hardi had it's "run".  Hopefully I'm wrong on this as it will effect many people if I'm right.

Good luck , the place looks good. 
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .