I did a search here and on google for this stuff. The posts I read here indicate that I can frame a wall, put Tyvek or felt on it and then the T-111 siding and stand it up like that? Will that make a good home, considering there's no plywood or OSB? If this stuff can be stained then I'd like it inside and out. I checked lowe's and HD and couldn't find it to price. If this is possible the way I've taken it, then it's going to make life so much easier for me when I build. I should add I intend to build a Gambrel roof for a barn-style home. Will this affect the possibility of using this siding with no plywood beneath?
Lets just say it depends . Are you getting a permit ? How large a house ? Will it need engineering ? Is single wall const . ok in your area ?
My shop in my back yard now 22 years old 30wide X 40 long is built that way . with 4/12 , 30' gable roof trusses on it . No paper under it,,, no insulation or drywall inside . So yes it can be done here or could . I'd never concider it for a full time home , a cabin , a shop , yes. Survived the big 1990 wind storm without even a blown off shingle :) Without H-1 hurricane ties , weren't required back then . I have like three years ago added the H-1 clips .
The good thing ,IMHO , is that you can do it that way to start . Then down the road you could paper over the T-111 and side it using the T-111 then a sheeting .
In fact about 15 years ago I re sided my neighbors house doing that very thing .
So again , IT depends on other outside factors .
Check with local building codes to start , good luck , HTBH ;)Peg
It'll be a full time home, and we're so far out in the country that I can build with no permits if I wanted to. It's what I'd planned on doing. I'm looking at the 20x30 (or 32, can't remember) house on this website. It's the single story design, then I'll add stairs and a gambrel roof for a barn look. I googled single wall construction and couldn't get any results. Is it simply building one wall and then standing it up?
Jared Single wall const , in my mind , is the use of the T-111 as sheathing / siding . Commonly done here in Western Wa, in the 70 and 80's . So no sheathing per say. So single wall
The 90's saw changes due to , but not limited to , #1 getting a higher R value , hence 2x6 wall framing , #2 More engineering of house's due in some ways failures of existing homes, I think , or better lobbing by folks like the Simpson company . Or insurance claims from flood / earthquakes / hurricanes etc . Or a combo of all and more than I mentioned
Some of the single wall places had metal diagonal corner straps , some let in a 1x4 on the diagonal , can't remember which was first , but think the metal strap came second .
If it's a house, more than a cabin, my advice would be to get a book on current platform framing :), buy a good plan :D , which you are looking at, :) and look at the "boiler plate " details on framing . Go with the sheeted wall,,, siding over it , with the proper building paper / wrap and weather proofing details .
Good luck , HTBH ;)PEG
Back once when I was working with a framing crew, it was 2x4 studs, either plywood OR a 1x4 let in diagonally on the corners, something called "black board" the same thickness as the plywood for the rest of the walls. Black board, aside from being black, was about the texture of some of the thicker hanging ceiling tiles, IIRC. Seems like you could cut it with a knife.
Which reminds me--can you put a small window in the corner today if you use the 1x4 diagonal there?
[quote author=Amanda_931 . Seems like you could cut it with a knife.
Ya could :)
Which reminds me--can you put a small window in the corner today if you use the 1x4 diagonal there?[/quote]
Depends :-[ LOL answer of the day = Depends . :-[ What type of curtain did you have in mind ? Just kidding , Jee some times I crack me up :-[
HTBH ;)PEG
PEG - why do your answers today have me wanting to go out and put on a large adult diaper-- don't say, Depends. :-/
I was sure some one would say that :-[ Well if ya need um use um, >:( :( :o , You pick your option on Smillies, I guess :-[ HTBH ;)PEG
I've searched and searched and can't find any place to price this stuff. Went to Lowe's and HD's websites and they didn't have it. No T111, T1-11 or T-111. Can anyone help me out?
Just saw an ad here in Mass yesterday for a bargain outlet at $16.98 a sheet with a "regular price" of $25 a sheet. Hope that helps.
http://www.bargain-outlets.com/bargains/bargains.html
I think it may be possible to attach T-111 directly against the studs ... no water membrane and no furring and "get away with it", but it takes some later effort on the inside.
By drilling vent holes in the T-111 above the sill plate and below the top plate, attaching pest control sceening on the inside of the T-111, .... then glueing in vertical strips of furring between studs, and finally installing a water drip plane of felt or roofing to the furring ... one will have the ventilation and water control necessary for a successful single wall system. This would only be necessary if insulation is to be used.
This is just my guessing ... comments? Will it work?
T1-11 siding. Here, T1-11 is used as exterior construction material. Occasionally it is stained however more often than not, it is painted. 2 by 4 wall construction is standard with the exterior covered with T1-11. Interiors are sometimes left as in older houses but now interiors are either drywalled or panneled. This is the tropics so we don't use insulation unless you are air conditioned. We however use hurricane clips since we are in a hurricane zone.
Try this for more info:
http://www.islandlife.net
Click on the architecture link.
Laura
In my area, Klamath Falls, OR, 5/8" T-111 can be used as shear, and siding, and cost about $60 a sheet. Still a bargain I think since it gets you sheathing, siding, and cuts the work time to about a 3rd of doing two layers. Have to be OK with the look of T-111 though, which I am still working on personally :)
I'm also planning on using the T1-11 as sheathing and siding. As for the look of it, I think I'm going to get the wide grooved variety (1 foot or so between grooves), then eventually put thin battens over the grooves to imitate the cute (IMHO) board and batten look with less materials.
To clarify though, you're wrapping the tyvek around the stud framed wall, then the T1-11 on the outside and insulation and vapor barrier inside?
Dororthy Yes that's the gist of it . If your getting a permit insure single wall is OK in your area . And check out the Grace vycor booket / product to seal the area around the windows & doors tops .
We /I have always used the 5/8 thickness of T1-11 / T- 111/ I'm not sure some thinner stuff, mentioned by others and shown in the ad , would qualify for shear . { It was 3/8 , pretty cheap $ but to thin to work for shear , for my view anyway . }
Here in Wa. we can get a 5/8 thickness rough sawn plywood with a shiplap joint. Not sure of price opposed to T-111??? Might be called T-111 no groove ?? Might even cost more the the grooved stuff ? Not sure .
So first see if it complies with any local codes . If it works , go for it :)
Here we can use a PVA primer as interior vapor barrier . Instead of visqueen on the inside. Check your local requirments . HTBH ;)PEG
Have you heard of smartside. It looks like T111 but its half the price and it comes primed. You can see it in the gallery.
Kevin
From personal experience, I say don't bother with any of this stuff unless you can afford the 5/8 plywood. You will most likely be dissapointed. Smartside needs racking braces in the framing, unless installed over shear. If you want to do it that way it will prolly work. When I used it at my Moms place, it bowed and waved the whole length of the house. Very dissapointed, but then, you get what you pay for.