Split level Wood Foundation

Started by MTK, December 12, 2021, 02:40:49 AM

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MTK

Helo Folks,
I purchased the 20x30 plans to use on a cabin on my lot in NE Minnesota.
Frost line about 5 feet.
I was thinking of setting a wood foundation on gravel/rock base/footing. Treated framing would be 8 feet high with four feet below Ground level.
Topped with Gable Room in attic Truss. Outside Deck/Steps wood enter into one side of gable room with staircase going down to bottom of the split level. This would add about 50 percent more space. Anyone done this yet? Upside/Downside?
Things to watch out for.
Thanks for any guidance,
MTK

Don_P

I would check what your local inspector is comfortable with. Chapter 4 of the building code has some requirements, this is my state's version, yours is probably the same but check;
https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/VRC2018P1/chapter-4-foundations
and then in chapter 44, the referenced standards, they point to the AWC's permanent wood foundation manual. There should be a free download of that on their website, that'd be awc.org.

I'd price it out both ways, especially now. In my area for a fast gravel trench footed foundation Superior Walls precast foundations has a facility within range. We prep a gravel footing and pad, they arrive and crane set the insulated concrete wall sections in a day and go away. We start building the next day. So check your options and local code guys.


MTK

Quote from: Don_P on December 12, 2021, 09:22:57 AM
I would check what your local inspector is comfortable with. Chapter 4 of the building code has some requirements, this is my state's version, yours is probably the same but check;
https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/VRC2018P1/chapter-4-foundations
and then in chapter 44, the referenced standards, they point to the AWC's permanent wood foundation manual. There should be a free download of that on their website, that'd be awc.org.

I'd price it out both ways, especially now. In my area for a fast gravel trench footed foundation Superior Walls precast foundations has a facility within range. We prep a gravel footing and pad, they arrive and crane set the insulated concrete wall sections in a day and go away. We start building the next day. So check your options and local code guys.

I have this for MN as well. I will check into precast. I just like the idea of wood for warmth, humidity and adding windows to the part above ground, after the fact.  Thanks for the info!

Nate R

I'd also consider your soils and drainage, etc. I considered this option for a bit for my 20x30, but I'm building in ALL sand.... So there wouldn't be a lot of soil pressure, or water held against the wood in the ground... I'd be more apt to consider it in a well-draining soil vs say a clay.

Interesting on Don's points on cost, assuming access isn't an issue.

Don_P

Both times we used them it was steep enough getting in that we had a dozer pull the semis in loaded with the precast panels. He left a dozer and I kept the excavator on speed dial till we had the slab done. I should have rented the dozer for the winter on one, I think I found every place you could go truck sledding before spring. The cranes made it up on their own and usually do.


WISteven

It sounds like a nice cozy setup.  Too cozy I think with only a 20' span.  I used 26' 10/12 gable attic trusses from Menards on a bonus room in a previous house. Those had a 14' wide room when measuring from where the ceiling reached 5' tall with 8' wide strip in the middle where the ceiling was 90" tall.

Fitting a stairway would be tough with a smaller truss. You can leave out a truss and frame up a stairwell in the 4' gap.  Or you can push a truss outside either way so you have a 6' opening and could put in a two-sided dormer.

On this house I also used a wood foundation.  I set mine on a concrete footer and used 2x8 treated studs at 12" on center. It worked great for the 16 years I lived there and I am sure it is holding up just fine.

Your proposal to put the trusses directly on the foundation one is something I have considered but nearly impossible to find any examples of it to look at.  It would end up looking somewhat like an A-frame house I suppose.

The only issue I had with them was that the truss members that from the roof plane, the side wall planes, and the floor plane were all out of whack and lots of shimming was needed to prepare it for roof sheating, drywall, and subfloor.