20X40 1.5 STORY IN SOUTHERN UTAH

Started by ffpara, April 20, 2017, 01:36:11 PM

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w1ck3tt

Quote from: ffpara on September 29, 2017, 12:37:14 AM
Another recommendation I would have is get a metal 55 gallon burn barrel as soon as the job starts. Great for warming up too and enjoying a drink but mainly for keeping the job site some what clean. You can burn all day everyday and still not keep up with the clutter. Its a life saver.

2nd'd!  First thing we got when we started building the barn, although we don't quite use it as often as we did now that we have a fire pit up by the house, but it was a great investment ($5 I think??) Spent a lot of time huddled around it during the winter building the barn!

Its more rusty looking now but does great!  Drill small holes near the bottom too to allow rainwater to driain out as well. 
My 50x30 universal build project:
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=14475.0

ffpara

We took a haligan and a sledge hammer and made some large holes at the bottom. This allows great air flow and lets it burn hot.


ffpara

Had some big plans to get a lot done this weekend with my son and the first night there the kid got sick sick. Felt so bad for him. So I was able to get all good wood moved under the roof so its protected for the winter. Did some clean up and packed up some tools. We did take a load of furniture and beds to put in the basement so I could get it out of my garage, so the poor kid had to help me unload it all. We loaded up the tent trailer since its already freezing at night and I had one water line break already and headed home. Ill head up next week to get the metal roof on and should be my last trip for the year because of the weather. Ill post more pics then.
I did measure out the flue pipe. I had to call Englander stoves because I do have a 17.5' (15' pipe) vertical run to joist and the instructions said can only run 10' max of single wall pipe. They advised to run double wall to keep the gas temp up. Also since I have to run the pipe in the middle of the cabin so I don't obstruct the windows I have to move it over 10" to avoid the ridge. They advised be better to 45 it just before the joist above the windows and into the ceiling box. It will be tight since I only have about 18" to work with. Said I could do it with the chimney pipe but they recommend the stove pipe and its cheaper. Anybody have experience with this?

Rys

Looking good! Did you get your roofing up?

ffpara

2017-12-16_11-48-59 by sbahde, on Flickr
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Sorry been a busy winter and forgot to post pics of the roof. Got the roof done so its all dried in and closed up for the winter. Ill be back in the spring to start again. Trulog had a 15% off sale this December so ordered all my exterior siding. Figured if I could save $1500 wouldn't hurt to order it early. They have been great to work with so far and will hold the delivery tell spring or summer. I'll spend the winter getting my solar system figured out and my electrical layout. Was going to do the plumbing layout but have a friend who's a plumber so may have him do it since I don't have to much experience with it. Get all that and the trex deck in next summer and I'll be happy. Figured it would take me 3 summers to finish completely. Doing the outside so its almost maintenance free, Steel log siding and trex thru out. Post more next summer, unless it falls down over the winter ;D


CabinNick

Looking really good!  I am planning a similar build and trying to decide whether or not to put a covered porch on.  What is the pitch of the roof over your deck? 

Thanks for sharing your build with us all.

ffpara

7/12 Pitch...technically its probably a 6.5/12 pitch. Im really happy I went with it. Was hesitant at first because of the work and the look but would do it again now that I have.

Rys


CabinNick

Thanks for the porch roof pitch details.  I have some insane snow loads and was wondering how the roof pitch would shed snow, but at 7/12 that shouldn't be too much of a problem. 


ffpara

We get alot of snow too so ill let u know come spring. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Rys

Would love to see some interior pics. Also-
Are your exterior walls 12'?

ffpara

I haven't done anymore interior work. Only interior walls that are framed is the stairs going to basement. Still waiting for snow to melt and warm up a little bit. Plan for this summer is deck, stairs to 2nd floor, exterior steel log siding from trulog, windows, and rough plumbing/elect. oh ya, a wood stove to keep it warm.
They are 12' walls.

Rys

Is your build a modified version from this site or a different one?
I'm curious how your stair headroom works out going to the loft area.
This is an area I'm having a difficult time with. Love your kitchen layout.
That's what I would like but my stairs keep jamming me up.

ffpara

Ya I got jammed up on that one too. I had to talk to the inspector if he would ok it. I ended up with 5'6" right next to the wall at the landing but with the 12/12 pitch 6" out you get over 6' clearance. He was ok with it if I went with 3'4" wide stairs. Not sure why he came up with that. I haven't framed it in yet so haven't gotten to experience what its like in real life. Ill let u know if it seems too tight. Not a perfect situation but was the best we could come up with. I'll post pics this summer when I get them done.
They are modified plans from this site. I purchased the plans took them to a engineer for the 12' walls, snow/wind loads for my area, the basement, covered deck. and size. Made the mistake of having a Nevada engineer do the work for me since Utah requires a Utah structural engineer sign off on them. So that was a $2k mistake of mine, plus a 1 year delay since the Utah engineer was 3 months late doing the plans.


Don_P

Yup, I've made that mistake too. The engineer needs to be working within his area of expertise and licensed in your state. The engineer in the other state is still waiting to get paid for saying he could do the work. He's lucky neither I or the inspector turned him in. Sometimes an inspector will let you work from the "line of travel" but I try not to push it if there is another way. Let's see what you've got Rys, more eyes on the problem.

Rys

How do I post pictures? Do I need them on a picture hosting site?
Currently I have chicken scratch on graph paper.   ???

MountainDon

#66
Yes, Rys, you need someplace that is online 24/7 to store the image file.  There are many sites out there or you can use your own website, your own domain. Probably $100 a year for a simple site of your own or many hosts are available free. We used to recommend Photobucket but then a year ago they started wanting money and held all the images people had uploaded for ransom. So we have no official recommendation. Many use imgur.com, imgbox.com. Don't take those as recommendations. They are free today but who know what happens tomorrow.

Once the image is uploaded to a remote host you post a link to the image in the forum message. How that is done can vary so you need to check that out on your own.

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

ffpara

Rys if you need me to post more pics of my plans just let me know but I think most are already on there. The stairs have been modified a little from the plans but are close.

ffpara

Rys - here are some pics of the landing going to the 2nd floor. What my plan is to get an extra 8" is to do a partial winder stairs, but cutting the landing in half instead of thirds.  I was able to get the landing framed in and while standing on it with my shoulder against the wall my head cleared the rafters and Im 6'1". The rafters are 5'8" from landing but with the 12/12 pitch you clear fine and it seems like plenty of room to move furniture upstairs. Probably would not work with a different pitch. Already cut the stringers and heading back in a week so Ill have better pics for you of the stairs, landing, and clearance.
2018-04-26_11-57-48 by sbahde, on Flickr
2018-04-26_11-58-17 by sbahde, on Flickr

ffpara

2 things I would have done if I would have planned this out better would have put the opening to the stairs directly in between the 2 beams. Which I almost got lucky (beam sits 2 inches into the opening) and did unknowingly. I would make the stair well wall a 6" wall (the one parallel with the beam just to the right of the level that runs back to the wall.) that the beam sits on instead of a 4" wall. If you do this you could remove the small framing that fills in between the 2 beams and run your stairs thru that opening. You would have to put in a 4' beam between those 2 beams to support the stairs and the floor. It doesn't interfere with downstairs headroom since its into that dead space above the exposed beams. This would allow one more step and you could keep your landing normal instead of winder stairs. Hope that makes sense:)
Also I would have run my stairs from the 1st floor to the landing "flush" instead of standard. This would allow more of a landing since its split in half now with the winder stairs. Im not able to do it now because I moved my door closer to the stairs to get more living room space and the extra run with doing it flush moves it to close to that door for my liking. Hope this helps and makes sense but it is something that definitely works if you plan it out from the beginning.
2018-04-26_11-57-19 by sbahde, on Flickr


Rys


ffpara

Made it back up for a quick trip. Was able to get the stairs done and I ended up moving an exterior door over 5" for a better layout in the downstairs bedroom. Lots of work but will be happy with it in the long run. Woke up the 2nd morning to some snow so it was a great trip.
2018-05-03_03-07-17 by sbahde, on Flickr
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Had some great help with me this trip too.
2018-05-03_03-14-32 by sbahde, on Flickr
2018-05-03_03-13-18 by sbahde, on Flickr

Rys


Don_P

It's coming right along.
A little constructive criticism hopefully to help others with stairs, they are tough. Look at the winder platform pic. The narrowest part of a winder tread should be no less than 6" wide, also winders must be identical in width at the travel line. That can take some real hair pulling. My connection is slow tonight but stairways.org usually has free downloads of older stair codes in good visual format.

In that picture above you can see that the bottoms of the stringers are birdsmouth notched over the landing. Look at the grain direction of the stringer and the notching for the treads and risers. Think about how easy it is for the birdsmouth to split out along that weakened grain. It works better to make the landing large enough to support the entire stringer with just a level cut on it rather than a birdsmouth. You can then make a 2x4 cutout on the toe, the front bottom of that stringer to prevent it sliding. One way to strengthen what is there is to level cut the bottom point of the overhanging birdsmouth back until it is 1-1/2" wide and nail a 2x4 up under the stringers across the backside of the platform. This is just stuff I've learned as I've gone along.

ffpara

So question for you all. Im running into the same problem I had last year. The economy is doing so good every contractor is to busy to take a job or even return a call. Trying to get my plumbing done but no call backs from anyone. Even tried to get some help with layout here in town but cant get a company to lay it out for me. So guess Ill be doing it myself. Have some experience with running black pipe and csst for gas and have worked with pex for water lines but have only done 1 or 2 small underground work for plumbing not much in the house. So my question is and hopefully my drawing will help, is on one of my main branches, a 3" line, is running horizontally parallel with the I-joist I will branch it off to a W.C. and then branch the 3" again to a tub/shower before it makes its 90 and runs up the wall which will feed another toilet and shower and continue into the attic as the main vent. It will stay a 3" line thru out. The distance off the 3" line to feed both will not be more than 5' so everything I've read sounds like I dont need to revent those 2 lines because of the distance even with it being a wet vent. Just wondering if I'm missing something.
Your probably wondering why I'm running 3 branches off the main 4" line that goes to the septic. 2 reasons: #1 the 2nd floor is exposed 6"x12" beams (of course i will be covering the pipes in the bathroom) and Im not going to drill thru them. Also my floor I-joist in the basement are 12" OC so would not be fun putting together little 12" sections running perpendicular to the trusses. The 3 branches will all run thru the wall to the attic into 1 vent stack thru the roof. I will also tie in the kitchen vent into it. Trying to only have 1 penetration thru the roof. This was never my plan to do it myself but i have no choice. Only good thing is its all exposed so if I mess it up and fail inspection I can replace it. Thanks for any advice. 2018-07-23_10-21-54 by sbahde, on Flickr