Home Accessories - handmade -  built-ins etc.

Started by glenn-k, March 21, 2006, 01:10:36 AM

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PEG688


The painter did the staining and it's a lacquer finish.

  Yes you could do the Benite on your stuff , it would help with the "soaks it up" part, you could do a couple of few coats of Benite.  That would seal the wood and just add that "wet look" / amber tone. Given time Benite just sort of dries out , I'm talking months here. But I know your tendency to ahhhhhhhhhhhh,,,,,,,,,,,,,, procrastinate.  :D   
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

glenn kangiser

"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.


apaknad

hey pegg,

as usual, first class workmanship but being an ornery contrarian i just want to say one time that your table looks like ----! of course it doesn't but i just want to bring you back down to earth a little. ;D ;D ;D

  BTW...HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO EVERYONE!!!!!
unless we recognize who's really in charge, things aren't going to get better.

Jens


When you do a breadboard end, do you run a spline, or mill a tongue onto the ends?  seems to me that a tongue would be easier, since it is attached, yet all of the reading says spline.  Also, do you use any glue on the table planks?  I am thinking no glue, but a brad or two in the center of the boards through the tongue.  Otherwise, I just can't think of how to get the end not to fall off!  How deep for the spline, or tongue?
just spent a few days building a website, and didn't know that it could be so physically taxing to sit and do nothing all day!

PEG688

Quote from: hobbiest on November 27, 2008, 06:08:10 PM\

#1: When you do a breadboard end, do you run a spline, or mill a tongue onto the ends? 

#2:   Also, do you use any glue on the table planks? 


#3:  How deep for the spline, or tongue?



   #1: I cut a tenon on the table top and a groove / mortise in the "bread board" end.

   #2: I glue the main board to the table top up so it's "one piece" after jointing all the boards straight.

This top was glued up in two pieces, ran thru a 24" wide belt sander , then the two sections where glued together for the final size you see.

The tenon's where cut on either end , after it was cut to final length.

   #3:IIRC I cut the mortise 1 3/4 " deep and the tenon 1 1/2" , the tenons are 3/4" thick .

If you look close you can see 4 each dowels , one on either end ( about 5" in from the side and two about 6" apart near the center.

  I get every thing it , slip on the bread board ends on  , clamped tight , then I bored the the holes all the way thru for the dowels.

Now the key part , disassemble the ends , and oblongate the outer two holes side ways so if the table top (or when ) the table tops needs to move for width / seasonally it can. You only make the holes oblong in the side ways direction so the dowel hold the beard board end tight to the main  table top.

You'll notice the bread board ends are a tad longer then the table is wide , this "hides" that movement.


I do glue the center area and the center two dowels.

The outer area and outer dowels get NO glue allowing for the seasonal movement.

 


Sorry I didn't take photos of all that and this written explanation is clumsy at best.

 

       
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .


glenn kangiser

Very interesting explanation and makes sense.  Thanks, PEG.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

considerations

PEG - I'm dreaming of countertops.  One thing I know I'm sure I need is a really sturdy place to clamp things like manual powered meat and grain grinders.  Do you know:

If certain woods would work

If stone will work

etc etc. 

If you have the time or inclination, I'd love to hear your thoughts.

considerations

PEG688

Quote from: considerations on November 28, 2008, 02:37:40 PM
PEG - I'm dreaming of countertops.  One thing I know I'm sure I need is a really sturdy place to clamp things like manual powered meat and grain grinders.  Do you know:

If certain woods would work

If stone will work

etc etc. 

If you have the time or inclination, I'd love to hear your thoughts.

considerations

Wood counter tops are expensive , and not all that practical .

This is Jatoba , Brazilian Cherry , very hard VERY heavy , very expensive labor intensive to work with.

The stock for this job came from Eden Saw lumber in Port Townsend, Wa. They have other species as well that COULD work , Eastern hard  Maple, comes to mind.   

 


 

 

  Not for everyone thats for sure.

  Granite / stone , again big $$ , less maintenance MAYBE.


Concretes the "new" rage , never done any , goggle it Fine Homebuilding done article on them. Again not cheap , labor intensive , lots of maintenance sealing ,repeat sealing , care,  etc.


  Maybe JUST on a island? For my own use Plastic Laminate  is the least $$ lowest maintenance , effective counter-top material. It does have short comings , every thing does , so you have to decide what balance you want. Dollars , do- ability by DIY 'ers etc.


     

When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

Jens

Thanks for the lowdown there PEG.  Its probably in some thread somewhere, but could you explain some of your acronyms to the militarily deficient among us?  I was asking about the ends, because I am going to be building our bathroom vanity soon.  The top is going to be Ipe, with breadboard ends, but I am going to use a spline of contrasting color.  All of the countertops, kitchen and entry ceilings, and the front and back porches are going to be Ipe.  We have a salvage yard here, that has pallets of 1x4 for 50c a foot!  cheaper than nice pine at that price!  Prolly gonna build some picture frames, and other trim details out of it too, maybe light fixtures as well.
just spent a few days building a website, and didn't know that it could be so physically taxing to sit and do nothing all day!


PEG688

Quote from: hobbiest on November 28, 2008, 04:29:55 PM


#1:   Its probably in some thread somewhere, but could you explain some of your acronyms to the militarily deficient among us?


#2:  I was asking about the ends, because I am going to be building our bathroom vanity soon. 

#3:  The top is going to be Ipe, with breadboard ends, but I am going to use a spline of contrasting color. 


#4:    All of the countertops, kitchen and entry ceilings, and the front and back porches are going to be Ipe. 


#5:We have a salvage yard here, that has pallets of 1x4 for 50c a foot!  cheaper than nice pine at that price!  Prolly gonna build some picture frames, and other trim details out of it too, maybe light fixtures as well.




  #1: Some of my acronyms , most I use here are forum type acronyms I think.

    MTL = More Than Likely , as we chat about many things that MTL can be done many ways . So I try to use that IF and when I see more than one way , or THINK some one IS looking fo more than one way. So it allows wiggle room.


  IIRC = If I Recall Correctly. Used on many forums , thats where I picked it up . Saves letters and words , allows wiggle room in case I was re-calling Incorrectly.  ;)


  There's so many more , do you have ones  I  use frequently that you'd like to point out? I'd be glad to interpret , some may be spelling errors , who knows , I'm a crappy speller and a poor typer / typist ,   d* But I do try.  And some times I spell it right by using the spell checker I have BUT used the WRONG word , spelled write like this word (write) which of course is not the right word , but it is spelled writed*   

And yes I know I could use a "word program" but I think thats more than I'm willing to do , type it in word C&P (Cut and paste) to the forum. A guy can only do so much. Thats where I draw my line in the sand 

#2: Good deal.

#3: See I was looking at splines as 3/16" or so pieces used to connect the boards via a groove on the edge of both boards being glued up. So like a long biscuit slot , never seen but in the wood.

I'd call what you called spline "accent strips" meant to show , just glued onto / between the boards for looks.

A spline , to me the woodworker ( some times I type W/Wer for woodworker) , is a structural piece to align or strengthen a joint, not some thing that necessarily shows except maybe at the ends / end grain area.


#4: Thats a lot of Ipe , keep your tools sharp , it's a really hard / dulling tool wood. Must , almost always, be pre drilled to fasten together.

#5: Sounds good , should be some nice looking stuff.


       
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

MountainDon

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Jens

I was thinking more about the countertop, and I think that I may do a regular breadboard end like you describe, but run a floating tenon in the edge board.  This way, I can get the contrasting color I want, but it'll have the same amount of strength.  After thinking about it, I think that the joint would derive more strength from having all of the boards tenoned, as they would end up working in unison with dowels still being only ate the center and on the end boards.  Doing it with a full spline, would need dowels in each board I would think, in order to have the same properties.  Maybe not, but that is my thinking.  Ofcourse, Ipe doesn't move too much!  I wanna have it splined where it shows though, so that not only do the woods contrast, but the spline will also sit proud of the boards on the front edge.  I like reveals ;D  I didn't seem to have much difficulty with the ipe that I used to build a simple, QAD (quick and dirty) vanity for a client a couple of weeks ago.  It doesn't like pocket screws, and can get pretty bad tearout along the grain with a router though.  I use Diablo blades in all of my saws, And they haven't complained at anything yet.  Even the 1600 square feet of teak floor I set a couple of years ago.  thanks for the tips pop. ;)

Jens.  oh yeah, BTW, thats my name.  maybe I'll change screen names.
just spent a few days building a website, and didn't know that it could be so physically taxing to sit and do nothing all day!

PEG688

Quote from: Jens on November 29, 2008, 11:58:14 PM


  #1: I After thinking about it, I think that the joint would derive more strength from having all of the boards tenoned, as they would end up working in unison with dowels still being only ate the center and on the end boards. 


#2:  Doing it with a full spline, would need dowels in each board I would think, in order to have the same properties.  Maybe not, but that is my thinking.  Ofcourse, Ipe doesn't move too much! 

#3:  I wanna have it splined where it shows though, so that not only do the woods contrast, but the spline will also sit proud of the boards on the front edge. 

#4:   I use Diablo blades in all of my saws, And they haven't complained at anything yet. 

#5:   thanks for the tips pop. ;)

     


  #1: On my bread board ends the whole main top is glued first, and the tenon runs all the way across. It is cut short of the end by 2" , and the mortise on the B/B end is morticed just a bit wider 3/8" or so for wood movement.


  #2: How are you using spline as a accent piece ? If so just glue it all together, Ipe board , "spline" , Ipe board , "spline"   etc, etc. So the main top is one big glue together piece.


#3: Humm like  S/E (self edge)  ??? What do you mean proud of the boards on the front edge???

#4:  Have you had them sharpened? You know good blades can be sharpened many times.

#5: Ok sonny ,,,,,,,,,yanno ,  no one likes a smart arse.  [rofl2]
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

Jens

thinking about it more, I think I am going to do it the way you describe, but I will mill slots for a floating tenon of contrasting wood where it shows.  Sitting proud...the floating tenon will sit 1/4" or so forward, that is, it will project from the front lip.  I like reveals, they are visually, very interesting to me.  I think that I would just need to add too many dowels to do it the other way and still have the same ridgidity.  Then again, maybe not!  Just trying to think of how to skin a cat before killing it.  It would be easier though, to simply mill a slot in the ends of all the boards.  I'll post pics when I end up doing it.  Gotta do some stuff for other people and make money to pay the bills.  Silly things, they are.  I keep trying to explain to the companies, that they can just let me go on without paying, and it won't effect them any...they don't listen.
just spent a few days building a website, and didn't know that it could be so physically taxing to sit and do nothing all day!


PEG688



Lookin forward to those photo's as I don't "see" what your saying about floating tenons and having them show with a reveal. Floating tenons are normally not visible and only "float" to allow wood movement. Maybe your use is other than what I know as floating tenons.

G/L with no paying those bills , I've had the same experience , most folks and company want to get paid for goods and or serves rendered.

But after this bail out thing , and this new President , who knows maybe Obama will pick up your tab.  ::)

       
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

PEG688

 

Alder TV cabinet.

 







  A work in progress , doors are on the bench. Back and top also to be built.

It gets a distressed finish so the few fastener hole you see get joined by many more similar holes.

 

   

When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

glenn kangiser

Alder - more than just firewood.... and I have split and loaded and delivered tons of it.  Make great furniture.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

Whitlock

Made some things out of it myself it was cheap to buy 20 yers ago now it is up there with oak ???
looking good Peg [cool]
Make Peace With Your Past So It Won't Screw Up The Present

MountainDon

Quote from: PEG688 on December 02, 2008, 12:30:10 AM

Alder TV cabinet.


I have an alder TV cabinet in the garage. The guts have been removed and I keep some of my alder tools in it.


;D ;D ;D ;D
I couldn't help but have a little fun. I don't know if anybody will get it.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

PEG688

Quote from: MountainDon on December 02, 2008, 01:04:42 AM


I have an alder TV cabinet in the garage. The guts have been removed and I keep some of my alder tools in it.


I couldn't help but have a little fun. I don't know if anybody will get it.



OK Mtn D  I'll bite , whats the "punch" line????  ???
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .


apaknad

well if nobody gets it...you could say it was done by your ALDER-ego so as to save face. ;D
unless we recognize who's really in charge, things aren't going to get better.

glenn kangiser

I was thinking it may have been his alder ones as opposed to his newer ones.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

MountainDon

Thank you Glenn; I knew you would see it.  heh

That was a real stretch... it was very late at night...   [slap]

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

alcowboy

PEG are you a member of the HandyMan Club? WOW! You do great work. I wish I could even come remotely close to doing that quality workmanship!

PEG688

Quote from: alcowboy on December 02, 2008, 01:18:24 PM


PEG are you a member of the HandyMan Club?


No, I get paid for my stuff.  :)  Thanks for the kind words.
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .