Had to take a break from working on the laundry room...Our beach house was looking like it wanted to slide off the bluff
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_20160209_094835259_HDR1_zpsgrryqakm.jpg?t=1455773939) The house was built in the 50's and I can't install raingutters until I redo the roofline. This edge of the property was sagging more and more with every rainfall and it was getting too close to the foundation. I had no clue how thick the slab was, and didn't want it to crack
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_20160209_1334164771_zpsskjjk7ue.jpg) The only thing holding that edge up was an old wormy wooden retaining wall. It had to go.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_20160211_1254249671_zpsayfgv34o.jpg?t=1455773942) Dealing with the steep slope was tricky. I filled some sandbags to make sort of a ridge I could dump the spoil pile on and move around a little
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_20160209_1725235861_zpsnlkjnktr.jpg?t=1455773942) Turns out the foundation is at least 28" thick at the edges.... If I'd known that I could have deferred this project until summer safely I think
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_20160213_1326294701_zps6qi1qk1i.jpg?t=1455773942)
There is no possible way to get a truck or pumper near enough. The only option was to mix up some pre-mix. This meant hand carrying 81 90# sacks up the steps and to the mixer. They shut down street parking nearby for some other construction, too
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_20160213_132700212_HDR1_zpsmfydnss2.jpg?t=1455773942)
The idea here is, I'll end up with a series of concrete pilasters. I'll dry stack rock between them, then backpour concrete, locking in the stones and squirrel proofing the wall.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_20160215_1741134051_zpszydojxih.jpg?t=1455773942) Here it is all poured. Two yards of concrete, dumped into buckets then dumped into the forms.
Tomorrow morning when I get off work I'll go strip the forms and see how it worked. Phase two, I'll pour some laterals that go the width of the property, perpendicular to the slope, tied in to what you see here. There's already rebar sticking out in the proper directions for that.
The funny thing that happened--I pulled out of Home Depot with the lumber for the forms. The 'International Traveling Laborers' crowded around my truck asking 'Trabajo?' Trabajo?' (work?) Next trip with the truck WAYY overloaded with 90# sacks, they pretended not to see me. Can't blame them---carrying those things was the hardest part of this project so far, and there will be more days just like it. I don't think I'll try to mix two yards in a day again. I just didn't want any cold joints.
QuoteNext trip with the truck WAYY overloaded with 90# sacks, they pretended not to see me.
Funny.
Interesting that you have 90# sacks of Quikrete. Here we have 80's, 60's and 50's, depending on where you go. HD and Lowes both have 80's, Lowes the 50's and HD the 60's. Pretty much the same cost per lb. I have found myself gravitating towards the lighter sacks in the past couple of years.
Quote from: MountainDon on February 19, 2016, 02:01:03 AM
Funny.
Interesting that you have 90# sacks of Quikrete. Here we have 80's, 60's and 50's, depending on where you go. HD and Lowes both have 80's, Lowes the 50's and HD the 60's. Pretty much the same cost per lb. I have found myself gravitating towards the lighter sacks in the past couple of years.
Glad to find out I am not the only one to have found the 50# more user friendly - ;)
Well....They offered 60# sacks, too. Slightly more expensive per cubic foot. The thought of walking up the grade and climbing the stairs 120 times with 60's instead of 81 times with 90's was the deciding factor.
AnnaMarie wants an island feel for this place. I want to use volcanic rock for the stones in the wall. I'm going to price some pumice boulders. They are light, natural, look cool, and other than being like handling a running course grit sander, should be easy to get into place. Option #2 is collecting volcanic rock on a friend's property out in the desert. It's free, the look I'm after, but quite a bit heavier
Quote from: flyingvan on February 19, 2016, 12:57:03 AM
Had to take a break from working on the laundry room...Our beach house was looking like it wanted to slide off the bluff
To me most Ca. beach houses look like they want to slide off the bluff..... ;)
I could set you up with vast amounts of lava rock - big as a truck down to sort of pumice. Oppps! You haul from Idaho. 8)
Might be worth it, just for the story---we're going to Brianhead to ski later this year so I might take you up on it!
Forms stripped without too much drama....Had to sawzall them in a few places to get around the rebar, but most of the lumber will get re-used. The property is pretty small so I have to keep up on the dump runs or I'll run out of room to turn around.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/pilasters_zps0pxqoksy.jpg?t=1455907913)
What area (roughly) in San Diego. I get down there alot for a client and my brother lives there also.
Is it El Nino down there or as we call it in the Sierra El No No :(
3 of the houses are in Cuyamaca (San Diego backcountry) but this one is in Ocean Beach, pretty close to Sea World
:) Thanks ! It did look close to Sea World but I could not be sure.
This project has been grueling....If I drop something it tumbles down the bluff. There's not much space to set anything down. My closest mixing spot is other side of the house so all the concrete has to be hand carried in buckets. Now with the whining out of the way---I'm getting to know the neighbors---they've been watching the wooden retainer slowly rot and crumble for the last 20 years and are THRILLED with the upgrade. The sandstone soil is a joy to work with. With the overall plan for this place, this was the singlemost difficult challenge, and all that's left is to form and pour the top cap.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_20160226_1721287151_zpsmnxvfh2z.jpg)
The lava rocks were just dry stacked as high as my Jenga skills would allow, then concrete was mixed and gently dumped behind them and tamped until it just started to flow between the stones. If I then went on to the next section and did the same, by the time I got back to the first section the concrete was set enough to stack the next course. I'll come back and chip off the stray concrete blops that are on the stones but I want to make sure it's all well cured first.
After the top cap is done the spoil pile of soil will get dumped at the base of the wall, then landscape cloth spiked in, then I'll plant some sort of hill holding vegetation and never, ever walk down there again
Any suggestions on favorite erosion control plants? It's south facing, partial sun, mild coastal weather, steep slope (you can't walk up or down it)
Quote from: flyingvan on February 27, 2016, 01:42:13 PM
Any suggestions on favorite erosion control plants? It's south facing, partial sun, mild coastal weather, steep slope (you can't walk up or down it)
This is somewhere I would really only trust the opinion of a good
LOCAL established old nursery with a very good horticulturist. Or drop in to a county extension agent. Not the 'experienced staff' at Home Depot and Lowes and Walmart......
The best place I always get info like this is the local branch of the Master gardeners. They are funded by the feds, state, county and their own sources. Not that they get much money from any of them.
I pay dearly for this info from my wife who was the Master gardener of the year recently, dearly! ;)
Quote from: Dave Sparks on February 28, 2016, 10:53:51 AM
The best place I always get info like this is the local branch of the Master gardeners. They are funded by the feds, state, county and their own sources. Not that they get much money from any of them.
I pay dearly for this info from my wife who was the Master gardener of the year recently, dearly! ;)
Congratulations to the Mrs. Sparks. And exactly what I was talking about. It is a distinguished honor to accomplish such. Where we shall never achieve such yet know a thing or two about plants and trees but we are always learning and asking questions. And the main reason I suggested that Flyingvan inquire at a real nursery with real staff. Big Box Stores assure you they have knowledgeable staff. Some might down there - I do not know but my experience up here I ask a Big Box Store 'associate' a question. They read the label to you. Excuse me but I can read and that is why I am asking if this will work a 5000' and five months of snow. Where we live we do have some very nice established nurseries with great staff.... and is not all that far to the Ketchum Sun Valley Area and they have a couple great full service nurseries over there to landscape 'Little Hollywood' and is very close in climate.
They older I get the more I think I would love your long seasons you enjoy. Up here we are under snow sometimes like 2015-16 under snow five months and can run it to six months some years. Then after the snow leave there some times a month of hard frosts. So gardens have to be very well thought out and starts started and ready to rock and roll pretty quickly. ;)
Home Depot (and Home Base before they went belly up) USED to hire field experts. You could get expert advice from a retired plumber in the plumbing department, and they had electricians in electrical. Not sure about the knowledge base of the people in the plant section back then...
Your suggestion is a very good one. I might also tap into the Famosa Slough Conservancy. The slough is the wetland habitat you can see in the background in some of the pictures....
My formula for real estate is tiny houses with a view of the water. When I bought this house in 2005 I had heard rumors that the slough was going to get a full rehab under one of those biodiversity exchange programs (someone wanted to develop some wetlands somewhere in the bay area, so had to mitigate something elsewhere) The slough at that time was a shopping cart graveyard and pretty gross. So I bought this property, they came and dredged, cleaned, replaced non native species with native ones, and put in an interpretive trail and parking.
This property didn't exactly skyrocket in value, though. 2005 was about the worst time to buy and had I waited a year or two I could have got a lot more for my money. We rode it out, though, and after 11 years it's finally surpassed the purchase price. Ugh. Oh well, this was my one turkey property.
Anyway---the folks at the Slough Conservancy encourage local planting of natives so I'm going to take your advice and talk to their horticulturalist about best options
It is all good! Except Home Depot. And even they have their moments!
The master gardeners often have a free help phone line also. It is staffed certain hours weekdays. If they don't know they will get back with data from the University of Cal Davis database. Just don't put in anything invasive and non native. They hate it when you do that......
I am still in trouble for throwing out Rye grass seed 10 years ago...
As for the long seasons and water front property, one good earthquake and there will be plenty of that ;)
True. Everything east of the San Andreas fault is going to slip into the Atlantic.
Quote from: flyingvan on February 29, 2016, 03:53:55 PM
True. Everything east of the San Andreas fault is going to slip into the Atlantic.
I thought it was the other way around ??? Ok, so now I move the Dinghy dock on to the sloped side of the roof?
It is a strike-slip fault. Unfortunately, Los Angles will eventually become part of Alaska!
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Top cap done. There's no bottom on the forms, just lined with visqueen so the bottom of the top cap will form over the stones. I'll melt the plastic off after the forms are stripped
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14441207_10210291574029560_2324714015638669977_n.jpg?oh=964d87d91cd5f4b01810d17dfb885fed&oe=58725C9E)
Now with the laundry room all done for my tenants, it's time to get back to the work needed on the beach house. My daughters are living there for college so I'm not inconveniencing any rent paying folks.
Rebuilding old stuff is unfun compared to new construction. The retaining wall is all finished and I'm working on the sidewalk. It's sand colored, and my daughters have been stamping starfish and other assorted sea creatures in it.
This tiny house is at the end of a bluff. There is no off street parking. You have to go up a flight of stairs to get to it. THe sub porch is completely rotted, and sits on piers. I'm going to tear it all out and pour a perimeter foundation. One of the big challenges is all the extra dirt I'll have to get rid of. It's clean, sandy clay stuff---perfect for something I've always wanted to try, rammed earth building.
Here's my plan---dig the footing, pile the soil in the middle. Pour the footings with 1' square columns 5' apart, and a series of drain holes. Build hefty wooden forms, tumble the soil with cement and the correct amount of water, and ram it into the forms, layer by layer. Finish off the top with a concrete bond beam, maybe arched (depending on how the rammed earth behaves. Totally new at this)
OK...Got caught up on enough other stuff, so it was time to tear out the old rotted porch. It's in the rotty sea air. The big question was, what is holding it up? If I dig down and find good concrete, do I re-use it or figure out how to get rid of it? Pour around it maybe?
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_13461_zpsg6rfqhyb.jpg)
The corrugated plexiglas roof is torn off, now here tearing out all the decking and deck framing. Someone was happt to haul off all the dry stacked bricks, but I couldn't find any beach party people wanting bonfire fodder. It took two full truckloads to the dump to get rid of it all.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_13761_zpsenlzez3j.jpg)
Unfortunately, the rammed earth plan isn't going to work; there's just too much organic debris in the soil and I don't have the patience to sift it all. I really, really need to find the 4" cast iron DWV pipe so I can tie in the laundry water and outdoor shower. I'm hoping it didn't go straight down under the house before cutting to the street down below, but this soil doesn't act like fill so I doubt it. Metal detector is no help.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_14021_zps30oxhmhb.jpg)
The entire porch was help up on these little concrete plugs, with 4x4 posts resting on them. It took nothing to move them. Also found the DWV pipe in the trench. Finding the cleanout now will be simple. You can just see the pipe crossing the middle of the trench.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_14321_zps0fyileyw.jpg)
The soil couldn't be better. At Cuyamaca, every shovel full of dirt, you're dealing with sharp rocks. This sandstone was a pleasure to shape. Instead of tiny little pier footings, I dug a 24" wide, 14" minimum depth, 22' long trench and formed up these pilasters. It will be another two yard mix and pour day, all at once so no cold joints. The rebar it #5
The fact that these puny little piers supported the porch for 30+ years gives me confidence my upgrade will last a long time, especially since all the runoff will be guttered far away, and none of my bluff end will see much water. I'll still have dry rot and termites to deal with though
Next pour...The plan was to spend one day carrying the redi-mix up the stairs (108 60#, two yards total) then when I'm off work again next Monday do the mixing and pouring. But, weather forecast called for rain---I really didn't want 108 rocks to deal with...Hauling and stacking went really well, so just went ahead and mixed and poured it, too. Today I'm tired.
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14900516_10210653722963057_1780624424371163987_n.jpg?oh=e9dc4b38f3dcfbe6bc60251ae7059dc7&oe=588F8E8D)
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14595754_10210653723043059_7745461372230008248_n.jpg?oh=077ed8862172dd8b13f607c970a966bc&oe=589A114E)
What a week! We broke one of our two helicopters so my overtime was all cancelled. Perfect timing. Took full advantage of my new found time off---but two days of buying, hauling, and mixing two yards of concrete each and one 1,500# sourcing of lava rock has been a workout.
Got the forms stripped. I thought they would sit for 72 hours but the schedule change made it less than 24. The concrete was still 'green' so had to be really gently with the forms.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_14441_zpsxm4lcfet.jpg)
Next came bending the mesh wire in between them and lining the back with plywood. I could have just poured against the soil, but there was about 22" of pilaster that went higher than the soil so it had to be formed somehow. Then came placing drain pipes (1 1/2" ABS) and Jenga stacking the lava boulders part way up.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_14671_zpsra8ns3w7.jpg)
Here's a view from the top. The concrete has to be kind of eased in or you'll blow out your dry stacked rock wall. The mesh wire helps, and you can even lean the rocks against it a bit. The concrete is worked just enough to drive it partway between the rocks to really lock them in, but not so much that the concrete oozes out the part that shows.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_14691_zpsyu1p3vk5.jpg)
All the way up...
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_14711_zps6xccigoh.jpg)
Here's the top. I have already formed up for the topcap/bond beam, I'll pour it tomorrow. It holds the whole thing together. The bottom of it is lined with visqueen so the concrete can gracefully form over the top rocks. It also forms the plate for the far edge of the new porch going in.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_14721_zpsfioxmwil.jpg)
(https://scontent.fslc2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14910473_10210742485742071_6041395846898699436_n.jpg?oh=19faef549dfe14b81eb25bf4ac231a21&oe=58CE6B0B)
(https://scontent.fslc2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14937252_10210742485702070_2154662304222127206_n.jpg?oh=c4542b8bf0c83d0dd6aafbd0358cf8fa&oe=58870681)
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/14925276_10210770192874732_6948103250153399382_n_zpserq5kavt.jpg)
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/14956404_10210770194234766_369484162149721478_n_zpsriqicipx.jpg)
I'll get in there with the propane torch and melt away the last of the visqueen
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/14925731_10210770194354769_1004243434097300197_n_zpss7wqdjct.jpg)
A little bummed about the concrete overflow that dripped on some of the lava rocks. I'll try the pressure washer, I bet the concrete is stronger than the rock
Found the cleanout. I want to tap into it for the outdoor shower (a really nice feature to have near the beach) and the laundry, which currently dumps on the steep hillside. This was under a concrete footing that was placed 30+ years ago. Seriously, who pours a footing over the cleanout??
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15094460_10210874623165424_1516224507181050468_n.jpg?oh=020aec1b6aed0e1363f7b0edf09b027c&oe=58D0BBAF)
Plan A: Remove the plug. It's 4" in diameter. Say 4 threads are contacting the cast---that's around 50" of metal to metal friction to overcome. I'm going to soak the threads for awhile...
Called my friend who knows about such things. He quoted from an unscientific study http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/penetrating-oil-showdown.350800/ that compared penetrating oils, to find what works best---their finding was equal parts ATF and acetone. I happen to have both, and made sure an LDPE plastic container was compatible. It's mixed now. Like salad dressing it formed a biphasic liquid, I'll shake it up prior to use.
Plan B: Drill and cut the plug in half. It's brass. The cast iron pipe is in good shape and I'd hate to damage it trying to get this plug out.
This plug will get replaced with ABS pipe. The size and thread match exactly. It will elbow off, and I'll add a cleanout in a useful spot under the deck.
I was a boater out on the big blue ocean. Salt water and taking things apart with Liquid wrench and all the other elixirs was hit or miss for me.
The one thing I did learn after some time and re-reading the instructions was the part about vibration or a big hammer, reapply liquid wrench, and give it time to soak in. Repeat over about 4 days.
Once I started doing that I was fine and stopped breaking things, like transmission bolts, motor mounts, and watermaker bolts.
I use the ATF + acetone mix. seems to work well.
Working on cars in the north east, every time you crawl under there you have to deal with rust. I've never had problems with nuts, but bolts sometimes have to be cut off. If you have a torch, applying heat probably works better than any rust penetrant. Also as Dave says, impact makes a big difference. Try beating on the pipe wrench with a small sledge.
I think you will be able to get it off.
Also really enjoy watching your progress. Really impressed by your concrete formwork.. something that not many people document. Thanks for posting.
Thanks Nathan!
The cap had a lip on it so none of the magic elixer was even getting to the threads. I was able to chisel it off. Thank God for brass.
(https://scontent.fslc2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15037104_10210886970754106_8099709419898540400_n.jpg?oh=115bfd72d50a9a563f5ec6612bd5740a&oe=58C5A4A5)
I was able to soak the threads after that. It broke free while hitting it at an angle with the sledge and chisel, but it really didn'twant to turn even after that. Dug enough space for the big wrench.
(https://scontent.fslc2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15178982_10210887490007087_2527781616567876219_n.jpg?oh=14ea1aef5780dd4eabbc5e4ecb980d9f&oe=588A8EF9)
Victory! (https://scontent.fslc2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15036510_10210887646130990_8045870722206923388_n.jpg?oh=1d34bab02d9afa857b16775c67fbbb11&oe=58D17F98) Except that the cap is an odd size,somewhere between 3" and 4". I'll have to try Ferguson to try to find an adapter. You'd think that anything from a cast iron thread would be available, maybe not from a big box store
Maybe someone knows---if I measure the threads on the cap it looks to be 3 7/8" diameter, so I assumed that would be the 4" ABS adapter. It isn't. ANyone know what size to call it in case I do an online search?
Congrats! Can't help you with the cap threads, but I wonder if you would rather add on a length of pipe to have the cleanout be more accessible?
Actually that's part of the plan. I'm tapping in to this for the outdoor shower and laundry. There will be a clean out in a better spot
Took the cap to Ferguson (plumbing supply specialists) Guy behind counter said "3 1/2" Cast! I'll order the 3" ABS adapter for you"....Ummm...You SURE it's 3 1/2"? (3" is something like 3 3/16", 4 is 4 1/4". This one measures something like 3 7/8"). "Well, is it bigger than a 3? (yes) Is it smaller than a 4? (ummm yeah) "Then it's a 3 1/2"!
So I'm hoping back in the day of cast iron (side note: still used in upper end houses if the DWV runs past a dining area or anywhere else plumbing noises are discouraged) everything was designed in 1/2" increments. I can think of a whole lot of numbers between 3 and 4 if you're using fractions. I will hope I didn't waste $39.80 on a special order adapter
I think he ordered you the right adapter. If I remember right you do not measure the threads on a pipe fighting. goes by the inside diameter of the pipe. Witch is the bottom of the threads. Might be wrong it has been a long time. (like 45 years)
Good looking project, but all of yours are. Bob
Thanks Bob, I hope you're right. I'll find out Tuesday. Backup plan---press this cap into clay, mix up some two part epoxy, stick the 2" threaded adapter in the middle, and make my own. It will work but this is going to be really hard to get to later if it fails so I'd prefer an actual ABS fitting
Had a few hours off and tried to beat the rain.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/15178951_10210952862121349_3639227897580866428_n_zpswyhpntro.jpg?t=1480275341)
It was raining too hard to get the "finished" pic. The idea here is, this (footing? poured beam?) ties in the top of the side yard retaining wall to keep it from tipping out. It's also the same level as the parallel rock wall I just finished. There will be three footings poured perpendicular between the two that will support the deck joists. The far end of this, outside the porch, needed support in the corner so it's formed 5 1/2" higher with anchor bolts for the plate. Maybe it will make sense as things progress
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_16871_zpsfxhnhu7u.jpg)
The black pipe is ABS drain going to the sewer, for the outdoor shower and laundry. The white one will drain the rain gutters from the opposite side of the house; I'm trying to hide pipes for a clean look. They are wrapped in foam where they pass through the forms before pouring the concrete
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_16881_zpsnr8v3xxf.jpg)
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_16891_zpsa7aakqt6.jpg)
Of course, it started to rain (and hasn't stopped) it was all I could do to use up the concrete mix. I just need another 1,800 pounds to finish it off, then I can start dealing with dead trees for a welcomed change
I hope this doesn't make anybody dizzy. I'm playing with the 'panorama' feature
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/15697692_10211302112892400_1322021686262525760_n_zpsoy1ku9ww.jpg)
Here's the top of the pours that will support the deck joists. They each have 24" wide footers that are now buried. The one at the top of the picture is colored since it will form the backdrop for the planter next to the steps. The perpendicular part is for a kick out that will hold a futon...It also will edge a little nook next to the house. At the bottom you can see the two slabs poured---they will be under the deck. The lower one will be enough room for storage. The upper one, still wet in the pic, I decided to do for two reasons---this section will get indirect sunlight and I didn't want weeds growing through the deck. Also I wanted any rain that falls there to shed away instead of getting trapped behind the retaining wall. Below that, what looks like a bush, is actually the top of a tall tree growing from the base of the bluff. The black pipe goes to sewer, the white one is for the rain gutter.
Also in the plan is a hydroponic system. The lower slab will hold the reservoir tub for it.
Man that is awesome.
I just noticed the way you set your sill plate bolts - that is really smart.
Thanks---yeah I never liked poking them into the mud. No matter how much you jiggle and twist them around I don't think you ever get the aggregate evenly around them again
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/plates_zpsbkbii7d2.jpg)
I was moving some dirt around on this side, near the end of that white 3" drain pipe. My 23 year old daughter was on the opposite side on the lower slab, catching some December rays... 20' away I could hear her breathing though the pipe so I started whispering "McKenna---Get a Job..."
My wife got it in her head the downstairs bathroom had to get re-remodeled (last time was 20 years ago). I told her we could pick out all the stuff, and if the weather turns bad it'll be a good indoor project. Somehow she made it snow the rest of the week...
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_18311_zpsjvkagnii.jpg)
Things dried out long enough I could get back to the beach house project. I can't put joists down until I lag bolt three posts to the house to support the beams for the roof over the deck. I can't install those posts until I rebuild the end wall and replace the old slider with french doors.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_18581_zpsqjtd8kwp.jpg)
Some things to note here---first, no insulation whatsoever. Second, this wall must have been re-framed at some point, there was almost no termite damage. Finally, the slider was gooped into place with liquid nails---no flashing at all.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_18591_zpsctcasnkx.jpg)
After much debate I decided to mount the insulation with the kraft paper out. I scored it up a bit...I might put a hot tub just outside the wall someday, under a roofed area. I'm thinking it will be more moisture outside than in on this wall.... This got covered with OSB then Tyvek.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_18631_zpsarbaamqm.jpg)
Worked late into the night. My daughters are living here and I couldn't quit until there was a secure door...
So, four sides to this deck. Side A is the house. Side B faces the one neighbor and some apartments. Sides C and D are great views. I plan on cantilevering the deck out a few feet for a futon. That one wall will be solid. I want some natural light to get through but want privacy. I found the perfect thing for $50 on Craigslist
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_18671_zpsshdkbhwi.jpg)
It's 58" by 28" and should work perfect
That's quite a score on CL. I once made some leaded glass doors for a hutch that weren't nearly so intricate, and man I appreciate the skill and expertise of a good craftsman. That window will be a gem!
Lumber is so much more fun than concrete, though I'll admit building onto a solid base is pretty rewarding.
First step was cutting the bevels on the tops of the beams. The ridge had a peak cut into it, the edge beams were a simpler bevel.
Simple is a relative term.
I thought my roof was 4:1. According to my trig calculations that should give me a 14 degree cut. Double checking with the scraps from the sheer panel, they were more like 17 degrees. Starting to think math is arbitrary....
I wanted to cut those first, trim them to length, then use the cutoffs to push tight against the eave to accurately measure for the supporting posts.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_19051_zpsrfbfxqak.jpg)
Next was getting the outside posts exactly square to the building and all the same distance.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_19061_zps8yrzdmvk.jpg)
That conduit goes down to my neighbor's house. It was clamped to the old crappy deck cover. I had to figure out a temporary brace to support it until I got new beams in.
It was very tempting to simply stack the crossbeam on top of the outer posts then stack the outer beams with the bevels on top of that--but it would have been low enough to block the view. I cut lap joints out of the corners which brought the cross beam up 6".
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_19091_zpsk2apotmi.jpg)
Also I like how the three intersecting bits of lumber look without visible connectors. To hold it all together, things were forced together with a clamp, pulling against a temporary block screwed to the wood. There's actually a Simpson post cap hidden in the lap joint, and I pre-drilled outward through the provided hole in the tie so I wouldn't have trouble hitting it from above---then once things were lined up went back down through that hole (so the bit went through the pre-drilled hole to the hole in the strong tie then into the other lumber)
Cut a stainless rod to length and drove it in
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_19071_zpsmog5mukd.jpg)
Looking at this makes me dizzy. That stainless rod actually lines up with the cross beam. The top of the crossbeam is lower than the bevel cut but in the picture it appears offset. The stainless rod goes through the bevel cut beam, crossbeam lap joint, down through the end of the 4 X 4. Before you go running calculations on my beams, there will be framing underneath them before I put the roof up
I don't have any pics of the deck joists in place, I'll take some next time I'm there. I wanted to span the complete 24' without any splices. I borrowed a truck with a rack to transport the stock. It was actually a surfboard rack but rated for the weight. It doesn't go out over the cab , just the bed. Really the wrong tool for the job but no problems were encountered.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_19171_zpsbf2d84on.jpg)
This family owned lumber outfit is awesome. The yard workers always seem to be having a ball working there. They had the exact T & G I needed---the ceiling for the covered porch will match the rest of the house perfectly.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_19241_zpshtra6sib.jpg)
I'm building the ceiling first. The rest of the house's roof system is composite shingles over T & G. I'm going to furr it up and add insulation and radiant barrier then re-roof the whole thing so the exterior will be seamless roofline.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_19221_zpsaduoio7n.jpg)
Thought I'd give this 'tiger paw' subroof a try. I've only used felt and EPDM before. It's very temporary until the proper roof is on, but should get us through this band of weather coming in. I liked it---it was not slippery, it was sturdy, cut easy, and had grid marks, making square cuts easy. I'd use it again.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_19231_zpsjinxfz4e.jpg)
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_19341_zpsgdbcsk0w.jpg) Back home in the mountains, it was time to replace the no longer white picket fence.. The pickets are all grey faded cedar with some remaining white paint. They will make the ideal rustic siding material for the interior portion of this lanai.. There are 276 of them, hopefully enough.
Of the four sides, one is the house---it will be sided with these re-purposed pickets. To the left is a wall the leaded glass window will go in, providing light and privacy from the neighbors (https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_19301_zpsl7hkqrbj.jpg)
Straight ahead is the view of the wetlands. The girls insisted there be a bar on this side. It will get spar varnish, and is easily replaced when it gets too weathered to re-finish. (https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_19371_zpszykmakch.jpg) It will be screened in as well. I'd like the area to be secure, and this side would be very difficult to breach without a ladder.
That leaves the fourth wall. It divides the covered area with the fully exposed sun area. A security screen door will be part of the wall, kind of pointless if the rest of the wall is simply screen---which provides great security from bugs, but not so much from people.
There will be a partial wall coming up 36", even with the bar. Above that will be a hydroponic garden. This wall faces South so it's perfect. I still need to drill the holes for the pots.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_19391_zpsxu6kyeor.jpg)
Speaking of holes---my old 1/2 horse drill was courteous enough to wait until I was done half drilling the final 3 of 15 holes before releasing its packet of blue smoke to let me know it was all done. That drill had a proud service life
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_19381_zps70dy8tu1.jpg)
Got the garden wall in. The idea here is, the enclosed lanai should be somewhat secure so the double doors can be left open all night on warm summer nights. The security door would be pointless next to a screen wall, but these pvc pipes would make it tough to get through.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_19471_zpscraamive.jpg)
The opposite wall has the nice leaded glass window. It's set on thick foam weatherstripping then siliconed around the face. The evening sunlight through it looks really good...That whole section is cantilevered out by 2'.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_19461_zpsy8zaiiww.jpg)
My eldest daughter loves doing finish work---good thing, because I don't. I'd left tools, nails and a varnish can sitting on the counter when the rain came through so she's sanding out all the stains that resulted. Couldn't convince her it added character
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_19551_zpsq4h4jqqk.jpg)
I decided to splurge and buy the hidden deck fasteners. Close to $200. I've always just face screwed decks in the past.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_19521_zpsglavdohj.jpg)
Couple of thoughts on these fasteners. They lock into a kerf on the ventral sides of the deck boards, and they sort of have a mind of their own---you can push or tap them all the way in, then when you drive the screw in sometimes they turn a little or pop out 1/16" or so--no a big deal, but after a few boards you're not straight anymore. I'm measuring every other board to the end of the frame now to keep them straight, and with 9 clips times 50 boards, it's going really slow. That said, it's all worth it, especially for this project---the whole idea is to expand the useful area of this tiny house, and the more the deck looks like the interior floor the better.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_19531_zpssdkewoe8.jpg)
The pre-planning paid off. The deck boards are exactly the same level as the interior floor. The ceiling matches up perfectly inside to outside too. You can tell by the threshold the double doors are mounted backwards----we wanted them to swing out instead of in.
The heavy rain we had was timely in that we got a taste of how wet things are gonna get in the lanai. After the half walls are filled in it should stay a bit drier. I was in favor of filling in the triangles up in the gable as siding, the girls want it open. The compromise will be glass or plexiglass custom cut to go up there. Part of keeping the lanai dry-ish involves reducing airflows and I'm thinking there's some chimney effect going on. Then I have to build the screens for the rest of it. Deciding between fiberglass screen or aluminum. Aluminum tends to bend, and plates/beer bottles/etc on the counter are bound to do some damage. The rather bizarre issue with fiberglass screen? Grasshoppers eat it. No kidding.
Hmmm...
(http://scontent.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/s480x480/e35/13671924_1771456789739342_1989276332_n.jpg)
https://www.bobvila.com/posts/37714-grasshoppers-eating-porch-screen?page=1#.WLzdXW8rK00
Just an update
Fairly satisfied with the way the exterior worked out around this frameless window. The trim piece for the bottom was cut with a bevel. I tried custom making a metal flashing to go over it but it looked like hell; went to a vinyl patch instead, still needs sanding. If, over time, a crack forms where the wooden framing meets the masonite trim, I'll upgrade.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_19911_zpslwlopz8u.jpg)
I'll leave that last bit of wall open as long as possible just so I won't have to walk all the way around the house to get it.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_19941_zpsna7b1mac.jpg)
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_19971_zpskd6zpgw9.jpg)
The insulation is actually more to provide a little soundproofing on the side with neighbors. They are not particularly noisy but we'll put a futon below the window here, and I know an insulated wall just gives off a more solid feel thus (hopefully) making the lanai more relaxing. That metal pipe is my neighbor's electrical main. Kind of hoping when I have him over for a beer when it's all done he'll decide it's worth moving it a little, but doesn't bother me enough to create ill will....Maybe I'll hang a big American flag from it
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_20131_zpsoikeoajk.jpg)
First part of my old fence used to trim around the window. The wood is 22 years weathered, but held up to shaping well.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_20221_zpswkennmlq.jpg)
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_20271_zpskyxlfxos.jpg)
There isn't enough of the cedar fence pickets to do the entire interior so under the bar and the garden wall is just T-111. The soundproofing is giving everything a nice solid feel and is worth the effort
I really love how that window turned out. Do your daughters appreciate what a find that was?
Working on the siding around it now... Yes, the girls are pretty thrilled with the progress. The planting wall is growing like crazy, the lettuce they planted seems happy there. They've picked out the carpet, and stools, and table'
Quick trip to the desert---my son got chased by a giant sand monster
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_20681_zpszairhiv3.jpg)
Back here again, started using the pickets for the siding. I might even use the shaped ends of the pickets to form shingles for up in the gable. I'll sort of play with it, see if it looks OK or not
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_20311_zpsoyttd6ko.jpg)
The girls have taken over the painting duties, further evidence they appreciate the work being done. I'll get pics of the outdoor fireplace and the garden wall posted next
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_20811_zpsdwl1avo2.jpg)
The stools are cheap Walmart stools, my daughter is painting them grey to complement the old cedar pickets
Finished the wall around the window with the re-purposed fence pickets. There were a few tricky cuts and angles, and they weren't all the same width, but all in all a simple process. The antique bronze switch plate covers blend well. The little bit of ceiling will have to wait until the roof is done and I can run the wires up over.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_20961_zps6xhyf1sr.jpg)
Salad wall is thriving, and is now bug protected since all the screens are up.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_21251_zpsc6asp5wq.jpg)
Even though the house wall isn't completely old picket clad yet, the girls couldn't wait to set up. I always pictured low, comfy patio furniture here, but they pictured a sit up table. It was made clear to me I only have the marginal task of financing, design, and construction---the more vital parts of furnishings are none of my business. Not that I'm bitter. There was some (friendly) infighting among them about the bedspread, the one in the picture is---"Too dormy and not cottagey". (Being colorblind I don't care, and it wouldn't make a difference if I did) Solution was it is now on one of the beds inside, in favor of a 'more cottagey' one.
I need to get a better picture of the triangles up in the gable. If you read back a few you'll see some debate whether to completely fill it in, or to screen it in. The windy rainstorm we got convinced everyone it needs to be rain tight up there but they wanted light. My plan was to buy a sheet of the thicker lexan and cut two right triangles, 24" and 84" on the sides, put some weatherstripping on the edges and sandwich them in. The lexan came in 4x8 sheets only and was $200---pricey and lots of waste. I bought one panel of 'Sunlite' polycarbonate panel instead---24" x 96", cut in two diagonally. $36 and it matches the window perfectly.
(http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/1000/89/898d8e9d-a5fb-453d-a579-94e433660e7c_1000.jpg)
The open cell ends got taped really well to keep spiders out. Only one side of it is UV protected so I imagine the two triangles will fade differently.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_20951_zpsei5z8zx5.jpg)
Built up the screens. I'd never made them this big before except in sliding doors with a more rigid frame. I had already pre-drilled holes for mounting, and I should have used those same holes to hold the frame shape while installing the screen. I didn't, and was aggressive with keeping the screen tight, which pulled in the frame a bit on the long side. Still usable as is and I'd trimmed the screen before realizing the concave bow so I'm just going to live with is.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_21171_zpsqcpcxaru.jpg)
very nice :)
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_21711_zpsrjhjrmry.jpg)
Most of the end wall is done. I decided to make a quick mantel out of some of the fence framing to give the girls some decorating options. It doesn't project past the 4x4 posts and blends in to the already busy looking wall.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_21621_zps0d23pubi.jpg)
Work has slowed down some. We only have one immediate neighbor and their family just increased by 50%; everything stops when the new baby comes over. The lanai was done just in time they could use it for the visiting in laws and out laws. New Dad is picking up some $$$ getting the pickets up. He's far more meticulous than I am. It looks great.
Spent the night here for the first time. Now that my daughters' room mate has left, if I'm between shifts or just don't feel like making the hour drive to the mountains, it's really nice to have the option. City sounds and lights are such a different kind of sleep. We are in Lindberg Field's flight path here but the planes stop at 10pm and start around 6am I think. No clock radio required.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_23531_zpsirt1y36s.jpg)
I had enough material to do the ceiling over the futon with the same recycled fence pickets but decided (OK my wife decided) it would have felt like sleeping in a crate so T-111 it is. Also that little fire column ($79 from Target) is a great little addition, you can easily move it and it takes the chill off.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_24061_zpsuzof9yhp.jpg)
I had heard Sea World wasn't doing anymore fireworks, bowing to every known environmental concern in the wake of 'Blackfish' and the simple minded people that don't see the big picture, or even the mid sized picture---so when the fireworks went off after all, I was pleasantly surprised. The reflection off the wetlands is cool.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_23761_zpsjoq3t3rq.jpg)
Daughter #1 discovered the futon as her new favorite reading spot. I love seeing created spaces utilized.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_22751_zpswzbfd3o6.jpg)
The ceiling lights over the futon are 35w halogens. There's enough space above for the cans; not true for the main ceiling, so I used 12w LED 'flush mount' lights that attach straight to the junction box. They are BRIGHT. Since they are dimmable I might put in a dimmer switch.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_23771_zpshunj9pbi.jpg)
OK...Moving back outside, next step is finishing the rail. The balusters from Azek that match the deck boards were really expensive. Grade stakes, purchased in bulk, were 74 cents each. The points were just cut off. I played with the spacing a bit then put them in. I'm going to let them just age and fade naturally, I think the salt air here will do that quickly. THe idea here is that it looks a bit like those east coast dune beach fences people put in.
(https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/flyingvan1/IMG_23551_zpssucsbrk9.jpg)
As the points were cut off I found myself setting them down in patterns. The girls saved them from the burn pile and glued them into permanent art, now hanging from the wall.
I guess photobucket wants to hold my pictures hostage. I'll do this one from FB and see how long they are supported....
I know this project here is a re-build, not a new build--- but this roof solution would actually be a pretty cool way to build a small cottage I think.
This house in Ocean Beach was built in the 50's when people were tougher and had more of a wide comfort zone for temperature tolerance. It's built like a solar cooker---heat can get in but not out very efficiently. The roof system is tongue and groove, then shingles--no air space, no insulation.
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/20375635_10213493321991258_8763219585160881101_n.jpg?oh=ef2493be0a92904888ad0d730225a4b9&oe=5A1D13CC)
I'd already built the beam along the property edge to extend the eave, for shelter and guttering purposes. The natural angle of the roof would have brought things too low so here I'm cutting off the eave right at the wall line.
Here's the roof all stripped. You can see where I built the lanai in the background there.
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/20479810_10213493322031259_1998355300526731881_n.jpg?oh=4e9fdd5c499a17208d27ad93681c3486&oe=5A1D6EA8)
There is simply NO shortcut to this job. It took two dump runs to haul this all off.
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/20294440_10213493321911256_3864560207616481602_n.jpg?oh=191e902718805ae46825e869ee991f02&oe=59EE482F)
In new construction, I think it would be cool to build the tongue and groove ceiling first then frame over it, like I'm doing here for the retrofit. I went with redwood---it's lighter and more bug proof (yes, more expensive) I'm adding a skylight for the bedroom too
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/20429668_10213493322551272_4155481207439714568_n.jpg?oh=1c2bc957dec0a79d960d1e1f5b1f6457&oe=5A3279AE)
The eaves are very well ventilated, and each rafter bay is open to both sides of the pitch. I couldn't find 24" insulation without Kraft facing but I wanted it all to breathe so I put it in then peeled off the paper. Not fun. I left a little at the top since it had to sit overnight and I didn't want moisture in the fiberglass. It's all gone now.
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/20374433_10213493322631274_7934558375052543963_n.jpg?oh=958bb5d64277f9976e5de292f6000967&oe=5A2CB4DE)
The roof decking OSB has the radiant barrier stuff. Awesome, and required in some areas. It has to be ventilated or it doesn't work. You can see how the ceiling angle changes over the side yard.
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/20476455_10213493322711276_5800473560468182409_n.jpg?oh=42bdb671592576adac2be29f9dcd5aa1&oe=5A382397)
I'm trying out this Tiger Paw paper for the first time and I like it alot. it's durable, doesn't slip, and doesn't get black stuff on everything.
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-0/p526x296/20596954_10213550571942471_2280515158653372096_n.jpg?oh=e9515174a12b5f96dc3e58ec5c0779d1&oe=59F3CD51)
Probably the easiest roof job I ever did---low pitch, no valleys. Wanted to show the tep flashing for the skylight
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/20664436_10213560999603156_3344418846290940033_n.jpg?oh=f4d4afd1cb7aa510ecdedaf2f719d3d9&oe=5A28764C)
All done. I cut a ridge shape into the 2x6's so this house would still sort of match the other three neighbors, but still allow for a vented ridge. My big mistake was, it moved the ridge to right where the furnace 'B' vent was, and the DWV vent. THAT was some tricky flashing to deal with. The house next door has the exact same (old) roofing, pitch and aspect. My new roof resulted in a house that is 30 degrees cooler than the neighbor's in the afternoon, all from passive insulation and radiant barrier.
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/20708118_10213583938896624_1178183695573661505_n.jpg?oh=0484bb10a9b3ef837b261c879ed6e2e9&oe=5A318F70)
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/20638227_10213583938816622_3779286259025747880_n.jpg?oh=73a6c419eca7d1ad2ffa7329b0efb997&oe=5A32F4FD)
Just to back up a little since it's been awhile---the side of the house opposite the lanai was extended too. I want to keep all moisture away from the walls, and re-did the laundry room (more compact now, for stackables) Note the complete lack of insulation prior. ALso this house had a total of three circuits feeding everything, the roof was an opportunity to run 5 more circuits. When I re-do the front wall the panel will get totally redone too.
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/20106587_10213369682180340_5525448187905590646_n.jpg?oh=37c717570d7463c897764199a655d9a0&oe=59F1A308)
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/20046539_10213369682340344_1701360089957071474_n.jpg?oh=3d0d9cb04e34302585dc3c2e78d5f77a&oe=59F3578C)
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/20140149_10213369682300343_7297246380184735565_n.jpg?oh=d31c52ea076ab10ee4899761ccff4f20&oe=5A2E3B07)
(//)
Wow, just Wow!
That looks great! Quick question on the ventilation: you said the eaves are open but it looks like you packed fiberglass in there so where is the air channel? Thanks for sharing!
There's a half inch gap between the insulation and the OSB on the 2x4 side, and a two and a half inch gap on the 2x6 side. In the picture it's riding up on the 2x4's going across the roof that I secured the rafters to (have NO idea what to call that particular frame piece) so I could peel the paper off. They got pulled back down from the wall side. Without the Kraft paper, vapor from the house will pass through the fiberglass and air will circulate out the vents. The one rafter bay that didn't have any airflow was the one leading up to the skylight. I drilled some 1" holes hoping it will be enough air exchange into the adjacent bays..
On the 2x4 side, I drilled and installed those 3" aluminum round vents in each bay, way out in the eave past the wall. The insulation stops at the wall so air can draw up there. On the 2x6 side, I'll finish the ceiling above my walkway with T&G. I'm putting screen material between the 2x4 and 2x6 that make up the beam along the property edge, and air can pull up through there---again, long before the insulation starts--then it can flow above the insulation and below the radiant barrier (which doesn't let moisture escape and requires an air gap to work)
:) Very nice! d*
Thanks!
With the roof done it's time to continue with rebuilding the walls and updating the electric. The house currently has 30a service (!) I ran new wires through the new roof framing and working inside the walls. The final wall will be the front wall that has the panel so I'll integrate it all then.
The south facing wall, like the rest of them, had zero insulation. So far all the framing has looked great. It's 60 year old Douglas fir, and by the looks of the grain it's all old growth. I was all set to do some major framing replacement work.
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Someone had stuffed some newspaper in a hole to patch the drywall. It was from June 17 1970 (https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/20799217_10213655233638948_5229386936040452006_n.jpg?oh=8e47272ac5574f38317c0f3a9d2355e8&oe=59EB5135)
3 of 4 walls insulated now, along with the roof
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While working on the insulation from the outside, I noticed I could see inside through the little bevel where each T & G board meets. Lots of little air gaps and spider access ports, so it all got caulked
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Those of you that live near the beach can appreciate what a nice commodity an outdoor shower can be. Typically you just let it drain onto the ground, but this tiny house is perched precariously on a bluff; in fact, a huge motivator for this entire project was to eliminate runoff. I can't help but think water cut with soap designed to break down dirt is a not so good thing to have running down your bluff.
In order to get the proper 'fall' for the grid sewer, I had to raise the shower base 5 1/2". This made the pan an awkward height. Considering options, decided to order up an RV bathtub to use as the base. It will make a great dog wash station, and if I fill it with ice it will make a great party beer tub.
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The shower and the laundry each have a 1 1/2" ABS pipe set in the new concrete, tying in to the sewer. I worried about the laundry not draining fast enough; if it backs up it will then drain into the tub drain through the shared vent stack. Also the tie in where the laundry outflow dumps is an oversized pipe that can hold 4 gallons.
Tub drain---I wanted a little flex in the pipe so when the tub is full of water and beach goer and flexes, the pipe moves with it. These plastic tubs are pretty tough but they'll crack over time around the drain hole. So I took a little plastic ice cream container and cut a hole in it for the pipe, filled it with sand so it wouldn't float up, and poured around it.
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Then some trial and error putting the tub in and out to get the drain pipe exactly where it should be
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Used up some scrap radiant barrier to form the lip. The heat reflexion for tub water with this is probably close to zero after the insulation is in, but it was scrap so what the hell.
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I probably won't ever actually take a bath in this.....
The surround....
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Actually the Hardiebacker was all cut to size first and the holes for plumbing cut out. Then the Hardie was used as a template to cut the holes exactly where the plumbing stuck through. A single roof nail held the membrane in place while the Hardie went up.
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The shower curtain rods serve double duty. They support the partial wall....Having it go all the way up would have entombed the shower, contrary to everything I like about outdoor showers. AnnaMarie will insist on shower curtains instead of doors, she likes the decorating options. When showers are narrow the curtains are notorious clingers. By having dual parallel rods, you can zig-zag the curtain so every other ring is on the other rod, forcing bends in the curtain and keeping it from sucking in to the shower-er.
AnnaMarie's job will be picking out the tile
The fourth and final wall is all insulated and sheer paneled now. Each wall had its issues--for this one it was the subpanel.
When the roof was re-framed I ran some new circuits. The old electrical was 30a service for the whole house, feeding just three circuits---one of which was the dedicated fridge circuit. I wanted the new laundry to have its own circuit. Same with the new lanai. Also wanted an outlet in the bathroom.
So the power was all shut off and I demo'd the wall where the feed ends of my new circuits were hiding, waiting. The wires feeding the sub panel were 10 AWG (perfectly fine for 30a) What wasn't perfectly fine-- at the main panel there was nothing whatsoever connected to the neutral bar. The neutral feed to the sub panel was wired directly to the grounding rod.
Upgrades---all new sub panel with 8 circuits total. 2-0 wire feeding it from new 90a main, properly wired to ground AND neutral. GFCI breaker for the circuit feeding the outdoor outlets and light over the outdoor shower. GFCI outlet with its own circuit in the bathroom.
I ended up with two empty spaces on the panel (went with the same brand, Murray, so I could re-use some of the breakers, they were not very old) which happened to be exactly the size of the 30a double that used to feed the house. I had everything necessary except for the wire to add a 220 dryer style outlet to the outside
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Why? mostly because it was easy to do now... It might become the power source if I ever have a really big party here. Maybe jacuzzi power. Or perhaps someday I'll have an electric car to charge. In a pinch I could use it to plug a generator in to power the house, though I'd really prefer to have the proper power transfer switch.
Also built the doors for water heater, laundry, and storage so it's all coming along
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Might be my imagination but all the lights seem brighter and vent fans seem to run better.
I've been using the same roll of Tyvek housewrap since I built the two story laundry shed at Cuyamaca Cabin. It was getting really thin and I thought I'd run out before finishing this fourth, and final, side of the beach house--
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I was a little concerned about the bottom edge since landscaping will get watered here. I had a whole roll of window flashing so that got run along the bottom edge with 1" extension below the OSB. The 1X4 went over that, careful to get it exactly level. The Z-flashing over that, then the Tyvek got cut right at the step of the Z-flashing. If that bottom trim board ever fails it won't be hard to replace it and leave everything above the Z-flashing intact.
A new roll from Home Depot is $129. I decided if I ran out I'd first try to scrap it in with the pieces removed from cutting out windows, then go with the $11 builders Kraft paper. That strip on the ground was the last of it---it covered the remaining wall with just 6" to spare.
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That 4X4 up in the eave against the top of the wall...There's big ugly conduit that brings power to Andy's house down below. The 4X4 had 2 1/4" X2 1/4" cut out to make a channel, then an angle cut to match the eave. Looks OK. Wish I'd run it through the new roof space instead.
Tomorrow's goal is to get ALL the siding done. The windows, doors and bottom are already trimmed, the material is stacked---as soon as I get off work (delay after delay due to fire conditions) I'll get to it.
OK. I'm gonna get off shift, get a good nights' sleep after all this fire, then FINISH all the siding.
Nope... "Up in Wildomar there are people running down the streets while their houses burn down" (We are one of the few local resources capable of fighting fire from the air at night)
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It's hard to get pics through the NVG's. Here's without--
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LOOONG night, here's next morning when I should have been working on the siding
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Ughh...That's one dirty copter.
Got off work at noon---18 hours late. Committed to a neighborhood Halloween party that would have been a faux pas to miss---go home and rest or get the siding done? Elected to do the latter.
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I still have to box in the electric panels and do the rain gutters. I wish there was a good way to hide the gas meters. But, she's all insulated on all sides and top, all dual glazed windows, and ready for paint.
New builds are so much more fun than rebuilds. Can't wait to be done with this to start the next ground up project
This tiny house used to be considered a condominium. A guy had his house (since replaced with multi family unit) and four tiny houses. The power came in to my unit where all the meters were then went off to respective sub panels.
Now only two of the meters go to houses. There's a third meter with 20a service that might have served common lighting before the condo agreement was dissolved. So the challenge was, hide the giant service panel mounted to the tiny house.
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One of the meters feeds Andy's house down below mine. His conduit ran under my eave on the front of the house. Ugly. I cut out a large corner of a series of 4x4's to make a sort of long box to hide that.
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Then boxed in that entire service panel. The whole front is held on with some screw so if anyone has an issue with it I can pull it. Access to the house breakers is easy behind a hinged door, and the meters just poke out.
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Around the corner is my sub panel.
OCD ALERT--- This house a year ago had absolutely zero insulation. Now all the walls and roof are well insulated---exception being behind the recessed-mount sub panel. So, the box around it got insulated too. I bet the net difference in the mild climate won't ever cover the cost for that 24" square of insulation, but I do like to think the whole place is buttoned up
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At the bottom of this picture you can see where I hid that 240v outlet. The siding is screwed to a scrap of 2x6 that just friction fits into some framing.
Got the rain gutters up. In spite of liberal and meticulous use of silicone gutter sealant, every single joint dripped---I think through the rivets. It would have dripped (nightly dew fall by the beach) right on the new concrete, so I dried it all out really good and sprayed 'Flex Seal' over the joints. I like that stuff. It seems to have sealed the seams.
So ALMOST the last of the concrete work, always made difficult by needing to carry it all up the long staircase.... The side walk on the south side of the house had sunken (before I bought the house in 2005) when the water heater blew and ran overnight. The challenge was leveling it all because it sloped up back to where it should be. How do you transition it to zero? at some point it's too thin for rebar and it will just crumble. One option is to cut away old stuff and dig down. I'm going to do the pour in two parts and pour a step over where it gets thin---the step (3 1/2") will make it easier to get in and out of the outdoor shower and facilitate drainage of water that makes it out of the shower. It will turn the corner to below the stacked washer/dryer, important because my daughters can BARELY reach the buttons. The step should make it easier to keep the area outside the W/D free of leaf litter, too, and when I have to slide the appliances out for service it will be easier.
Rebar and wire is cheap---use lots of it. Also since this is new concrete over old, visqueen was put down first.
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(this side was over dirt but put visqueen down anyway)
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