Anyone have any tips on how to fill and finish nails holes on interior pre-primed trim.
In the past I've used the same white latex caulk that I used on the seams with less than stellar results. I looked at painters putty, but the directions say it must be "primed with oil based primer" (well that's convenient ???).
Since the trim is already primed I want something that is paint ready - preferably.
Any suggestions, based on your experience?
Use a lightweight spackle. I prefer it to caulk as it can be sanded smooth.
I've always just used caulking.
You could try drywall spackle to see if that would give you a better finish.
More work though.
Never thought of using spackle in wood trim. I guess it would work as good as any of the other products, plus easy to sand and ready to paint.
Bondo is the king of paint-grade fillers...but you gotta hustle and it's a mother to hand sand.... ;D
For small nail holes spackle works great.
Not a nail hole filler but if you are into bigger fill. This is kind of pricey but is much more fun to work with than bondo, epoxy base rather than polyester. It has much more working time and is easier to sand. I've used a few gallons of their liquid resin for window and door and log repairs. I reopened one pair of cans 10 years later, partially used, and it was still good enough to repair a window with.
https://www.abatron.com/product/woodepox/
Don, what color is the mixed product, or more importantly what color does it dry down to?
A very light tan, one part is white the other is about khaki colored. their wood consolidating epoxy is similar to West, a clear amber color. They have pigments as well I think.
We have a couple of spots in landscaping timbers that have rotted while the majority of the timbers are fine. I was going to try concrete with tan tinting. I'm reasonably sure that would postpone replacement by many years.
I go round and round when it is exposed to rewetting. This becomes a slug of non porous stuff that keeps that area from being able to readily dry back out. I'd dig out the really loose stuff, borate, let dry and then consider it. On a landscape timber this will cost more than the timber, but it might make sense depending on where that timber is :D
It is timber #2 in a three high timber wall with a concrete brick sidewalk at the upper surface. :-[
There is the old fashion way of making bung plugs of the same material. I think I did close to a thousand on a teak deck on my sailboat.
Pretty hard to beat walking barefoot on a teak deck in the tropics. The romans said that Jesus did that ::)