Ok after lurking here for a while I thought Id share my cabin plans and get some feedback along the way... Hopefully Ill keep up with these postings.
I'm a guy who needs more room than my current RV affords - especially when my kids come to visit and stay for weeks at time during the summers and every other weekend during the year. Luckily I have a supportive family- I live on my brothers farm- I have a RV to live in that was hardly used by my parents and said brother is cool with me building in a stand of drought killed trees....
While I should start at the foundation and move up - Ill share the layout picture first and get the foundation drawings up next - they are all pencil and paper as of now...
Some facts:
2x4 walls
Shed/Skillion/Monoslope - Roof 2x6's
8' rear wall
10' front wall - south facing
(https://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c225/thomasdelaurier/resource-export-1403187522720_zps46524dca.jpg)[/URL]
TD
For the span the rafters should be a minimum of 2x8's, but also think about how you are going to insulate and possibly vent the roof. There is not enough pitch for many common (cheaper) roofing materials. To get up to a 4/12 which is a common low slope pitch the front wall would need to be close to 5' taller than the back wall. The back wall could be 7' without a problem. Myself, I wouldn't want to walk around the shower to get to the sink. The shed has add on possibilities, I'd probably set it up for a 14 x32' porch addition in the future under a roof that slopes back down to form a gable.
My wife and I rented a cabin in Oregon with almost the same floor plan. We found it to be very [cool]. It would not been hard to live in full time at all. We were there for about four days in the winter time and found it efficient and roomy enough for the two of us. It of course had a fireplace - that was on the end wall of the front room. Strangely the dining area or table was at a window about where you are showing the 'love seat'. That was huge nice because it looked out on the lake as you enjoyed your meal. Nice part about that served then a multipurpose table dining or gaming or a 'desk'. It was about the size of a 'card' table.
Looks like a good start for a floor plan. I like the shared kitchen/ bath wall.
A few things that come to mind that you might want to consider - storage space or closets (easy to forget about but really important day-to-day), water heater, room heating source(s), egress from bedroom in case of fire.
This is off their web site. The one we had rented was the lower one or to the right it looks out on the lake. But if you would want to call about measurements and more specifics about that floor plan Personal Message me and I can get you the phone number. We have toyed with the idea of building one here like it as a weekend rental or guest cabin we liked it so well.....
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Don thanks for the input - Im looking at span charts right now and trying to make sense of them - I think Ive got it .... Google is my friend lately and this forum.
I could do a 7 ' back wall and 10' or 11' front wall - still not the 5' you recommend but better than the 2' I was thinking about...
Quote from: Don_P on June 19, 2014, 09:31:22 PM
For the span the rafters should be a minimum of 2x8's, but also think about how you are going to insulate and possibly vent the roof. There is not enough pitch for many common (cheaper) roofing materials. To get up to a 4/12 which is a common low slope pitch the front wall would need to be close to 5' taller than the back wall. The back wall could be 7' without a problem. Myself, I wouldn't want to walk around the shower to get to the sink. The shed has add on possibilities, I'd probably set it up for a 14 x32' porch addition in the future under a roof that slopes back down to form a gable.
Quote from: hpinson on June 20, 2014, 08:42:54 AM
Looks like a good start for a floor plan. I like the shared kitchen/ bath wall.
A few things that come to mind that you might want to consider - storage space or closets (easy to forget about but really important day-to-day), water heater, room heating source(s), egress from bedroom in case of fire.
I've been living in a 25 RV with one slide out for over a year and have pared down my "stuff" so Im going to make do with an armoire in the bedroom... I have a huge barn 20 feet away made of three shipping containers - so Im good on storage of tools etc...
Water heating - Im either using a propane on demand that is mounted outside - or a small 30 gallon propane water heater mounted outside in a small shed.
Heat will be electric in the bedroom and living rooms - Im in central texas and our "winter" is not that cold - well usually ( this past winter was forever and colder than normal)
Hmmmm egress - hadn't thought of that. Especially since Im going to use super narrow windows.. Ill think about it ..
TD
The cabin site !! I think I have some work to do
(https://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee491/Tdelaurier/9ABC369F-4E71-4324-86E5-4A28BB6E6417.jpg) (https://s1230.photobucket.com/user/Tdelaurier/media/9ABC369F-4E71-4324-86E5-4A28BB6E6417.jpg.html)
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Question for you gurus...
HOW to vent a shed/skillion roof?
Im planning a 3.5 in 12 shed/skillion roof - metal/ raised ribbed standard roofing, over heavily overlapped tap paper, on top of osb with a reflective layer, on top of 2x8s.... I assume that r21 insulation will leave me enough air space above the insulation and below the OSB to vent moisture out - but how ???? Low side perforated sofits - but the high end ?????
Thanks....
Crickets ?? HAHAH ok after much google searching ( theres actually not a whole lot out there) Its basically like venting a shed roof thats attached to a wall - like an extension or porch. Found some materials (venting) to use on the top edge under the flashing... Also for future reference - read a whole lot about venting and insulating cathedral roof/ceiling - since that applies closely to my project...
Now to research pier depths and diameters ..... The learning never ends...
TD
Well after much thought and starting back to work after a great summer (Im a high school teacher) Ive changed my plans and decided on a 16 x 32 cabin with two bed rooms - my son needs a room of his own when he visits and maybe lives with me full time. Ive augered/dug 15 holes and have begun - slowly - the basic piers to support my beams. One thing Ive learned so far - threaded rod will spin within a concrete pour if not secured properly - Now ive got to epoxy each one - thank goodness ive only done 4 out of 15 piers before I figured this out.. Pictures to come soon I welded a chunk of rebar to the remaining threaded rod to stop this issue... Im only able to work weekends and the maybe an hour or two after work every week. So its been slow going so far...
Bend the rod 90 degrees, if you've already bought it, or go buy some anchor bolts...
If you post your ideas before you actually build something, you may get it right first time !
There's a wealth of information and helpful people here on multiple time zones !
Pics of the basic piers and revised design. Holes are 5 inch wide by 5 feet deep .. Each block under the cinder block is 20" square.....
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Ok question for your guys - nails or screws - for the 32' beams ??? Three 2x8's with 1/2" plywood between . Glue ?? no Glue ?. So if anyone can tell me different Im thinking a heavy wood glue and using 3 1/2 screws to bind all the beams together... YES all joints are over a pier and supported at around every 8'. What do ya think ????
Never use a screw for a structural connection unless you see that it is a structural screw. Connections are intended to be ductile, deforming and making noise prior to failure. Screws are brittle and can lead to sudden failure, not a good thing. Glue in the field strengthwise counts as nothing but it does make built up beams stiffer.
Plywood counts a zero. You need to know the loads being supported to figure girder size and span
For what do I think, in Texas, a 12" deep perimeter footing would have been easier and better.
Congrats on hitting 3000 posts Don_P!
How comes plywood counts as 0? I would think it would add strength to the beam, and at the very least remove some of the bounce... or maybe I am just reading your reply wrong. Forgive the ignorance, but I too would have built up a beam with plywood for extra strength.
I've read that a plywood layer adds 15% more ..... Something - stiffness/load capacity ?? I don't remember ....
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A perimeter foundation would have been nice. But almost everything I'm doing is a one man operation and I'm not about to dig in this rocky soil to install that kind of foundation ! Plus im pretty sure the three beams and piers I'm installing are much cheaper and easier on a one man job .... Plus i can work on it slowly over time ..
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If the seams of the plywood occur over posts or near the inflection points and if the plywood is very well attached to the full length beam members... then the section modulus of the veneers running in the direction of the axis of the beam can be counted. That is a small amount and only if the joints and connections are done right. It's best not to count on it for design.
Ok question ? Originally I was going to run three beams along my three rows of piers for a total of 32 feet. With the floor joists running perpendicular across those beams.... As I was sitting drinking a beer i thought that I could also run my beams the other direction across my piers and have five rows of 16 feet beams.... The total foot print is 16X32.. Any advantages/disadvantages in doing it this way.
Each pier is about 7 1/2 ' away from the other pier. Using 3- 2x8 PT lumber to make up the beams... What do ya think ???
TD
Look up, you will need to support the roof and loft floor. The codebook section on girders will help with sizing.
Don P
Yes Ive done that already - and no loft - just asking if theres any disadvantage running beams across instead of length wise - still supported at 8 foot intervals either way.
No, as long as you take care of support.
triple 2x8's will work for the... what would be a good fancy word... transverse girders. You do need girders running the 32' direction to carry the roof load. In good Southern Yellow Pine a double 2x8 works along the long sides if the transverse girders are carrying the floor load.
Don - would that be double joists at each long side - or double 2x8's attached to my beams??
They would be double 2x8 rim joists, under the long walls.
If the posts extend from footing to top plate of the wall with the floor beams hangered to the posts or supported on 2x blocks extending from footing to under the beams, then the posts would be braced by the wall sheathing.
Ok I need y'all's opinion ... I was going to go with 2x6 floor joists on 16 or 24 centers I've read the tables . Clear span is slightly over 7 feet . They just don't look beefy enough to me .
Single story/no snow loads .
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#2 Doug Fir 2x6 can span about 9' and works but as many suggested to me: deeper is better.
If insulation isn't an issue then 2x6 or 2x8 will work fine but code may require more. I used 2x6 with a ~9' span and it's solid on 16" centers. However I put support under the wood stove just to be certain and am building a new foundation under the outside wall so the cabin and floor is even more solid. If I had to do it again I'd go with 2x10's or even 2x12's on 24" centers to span the distance (depending on loads etc).
Just my 2c
I'm with OlJarhead on this one. I would do 2x10 so you have room to run pipe or whatever.
Austin
Thanks for the input ! I think 10/12's may be slight over kill - not too much to run between those joists - but extra insulation can't hurt ! May just go with 8's. But thanks for the extra input ...
I think you won't regret using 2x10's or even 2x12's and depending on the spans you may save money. For example the 2x6 DF#2's can span 9' but to get any reasonable loading you need 16" centers (which is what I did). However, if you overbuild your walls (which I did by using 2x6's on 16" centers and going 10' tall) you add more weight than really should be carried by the 2x6's IMHO so, if like me and you do that, you end up sticking a new foundation under the outer walls.
Better bet is to span the 14' (for my cabin) and go with deeper joists - I did a quick search and this is what I found using 16" centers:
2x6 DF#2's max span is 9'9" with 40lbs live load (10lbs dead) ($9.47ea@HD for 14') (cost $180 for 19 that will span 9'9" and have nearly 22" cantilever that you'd have to brace)
2x8 DF#2's max span is 12'5" ($13.92 for 16') (cost $265 to span 12'5" with only about 8-10" cantilver -- no bracing required really)
2x10 DF#2's max span is 15'2" ($19.69 for 16') (Cost $375 to span the entire 14' end to end so no cantilever at all and a much better floor)
2x12 DF#2's max span is 17'7" ($24.49 for 16') (cost $465 but way over built if you ask me)
2x12 DF#2's max span is 14'4" is using 24" centers ($318 to span entire 14' with a much stronger floor that can also take R38 insulation)
I used: http://www.awc.org/calculators/span/calc/timbercalcstyle.asp
So looking at that (and I wish I'd done this before building my cabin) you can spend the extra $138 to get 2x12 joists on 24" centers but in return get twice the insulation out of the deal, no cantilever that might cause stress, no worries about needing to brace the cantilever or adding support when you put in a heavy wood stove etc and it would be to code (or better).
All in all I have to say had I done this math more seriously when I was build I WOULD have gone with 2x12's right off. And considering the span I might have even made my cabin a little wider.
Just something to ponder ;)
Note: I used 16' lengths only because that's what they had online. I've purchased plenty of 14 footers so their cost would be cheaper (so you might get away with even less dollars in the end). Also I based my calcs on my floor which is 14' x 24'
OK one more post ;) d*
I missed the 7' span somehow. Sorry.
So looking at the pic above it appears you have beams running the width every 7'OC? If so and you're laying the joists across those then 2x6 will span just fine. Won't get the insulation of a deeper floor but if you have no snow loads then I'm assuming it isn't likely to ever get very cold and my 2x6 R19 floor is just fine in -20F weather.
WOW - Im so behind posting anything about this build ....
Coming today !
Where did I leave off - foundation - went with 2x6 - wish i had done 2x8 - little mushy
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Used my floor to build my own rafter/trusses...
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Lots of reason i built the trusses the way I did... They are up and strong
So that was I guess DEC 2014 - FEB 2015..
Worked a little be when I got home from work and on weekends as I had left over cash each month.
March and April 2015
Slowly getting more done - WITH zero help.
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My 18 year old Maine Coon - constant companion.
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April was a good month. Got tons done - Found some extra cash to spend.
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And then it rained for the entire month of May. Record breaking levels ever recorded in May in Texas. Sorry Cali.
June - out of school - Im a teacher ----- More done
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I hate ladders and roofs - I might be outta my skill set getting the metal roof on myself....
Looks good! Sure feels good to step back and see how far you've come doesn't it.
What part of central TX are you building in? I'm building out near Harper.
I like the trusses, I've been thinking of how to do it prescriptively, and I think it might be easier if anyone follows this later. The peak gusset and kingpost could be done just like these. If the bottom chord/rafter tie is then lapped across the faces of the rafters and kingpost the nailing requirement in the heeljoint table at the end of the rafter tables in the codebook work. Read the adjustment for raised ties, it'll increase the nail count by a few. That should make that connection easier and right out of the book. The ridge gusset is also right out of the code. The birdsmouths would probably need to be notches to pass inspection, but most of us would have deeper rafters so this wouldn't be a problem.
Uninspected, one way to reverse engineer the code rafter tie connection and then use plywood side plates to build it like thomasd, is to use the awc.org connections calc. Plug in the code connection to find the strength they want, then set the calc up with plywood sideplates and find the correct nail count doing it that way. Remember you'll have that connection requirement into both members.
Yep what DonP said....
This is the biggest thing Ive ever built.... Im no stranger to hammers and tool - I build sets for the theatre.. But this is a whole new thing for me...I did a years worth of reading before I even broke ground...
I originally built those trusses that way because first of all I wanted a higher center ceiling and I could get 12 footers home on my car roof easier - and finding a flat/straight 16 footer was almost impossible... Im pretty sure they are super strong with all the wood glue and nails i used ... I kinda missed a step on the ladder one day and ended up hanging from the bottom chord ... Im 260lbs and that sucker didnt even flex...
What I didnt take into account was the heel plate junction at the top plate and how Id eventually hang drywall from it up to the ceiling and insulate it and provide a path for air from the soffit ... Ive worked out a fix - but it vexed me for a long time ... Ill have to take some pics
TD
Updates - Sorry for the slowness in posting pics
Update - Moved in this March and am slowly doing trim work
Here are some pics - Roof was started last summer
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Tin was cheaper than shingles - and probably quicker..
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Strips of Pine and Oak glued and brad nailed to each other - came out ok !! Lots of sanding
Tried to be creative and stain a faux rug at front door - its currently covered by a real rug
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Solar battery box - currently - 6 - 6volt 220 amp hour batteries - powers all lights and ceiling fans
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Old pine floors from a tear down in Austin - got a good deal on 2 truck loads - ReStore at old location downtown.... LOTS AND LOTS of oil Base poly - damn that stuff is pricey ....
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Looking good! I really like your siding and paint combination. Is the corrugated steel at the bottom purely ornamental? Where I will be building you don't want exposed plywood or T1-11 the bottom few feet as the porcupines like to eat the glue.
I quess its both - it covers the tar paper and plywood beneath that - the eaves are so wide that its doesnt see much rain unless its blowing - It was also a money saver cause i didnt need whole sheets of t11 I could use the remainder for the eaves and the Tin was free . I like the look as well Thanks