Hey Peter; what kind of cars are you into? :-?
Note: No problem Guys, but it seemed that this deserved it's own space.
Glenn
Anything from the 40's through to the 70's
Love 50's cars...Back east they are impossible to dig up....I mess with a lot of 67-76 Mopars....I have a 48 chevy 5 window coupe...A couple of 56 chevrolets...a 65 mustang fastback...
nothing completely restored...I guess the 67 volkswagon squareback is pretty close...and I have a 68 swinger I pretty much restored...
I always have 30-40 classic cars...
Always great to meet more car people....It is what I do for a living...Restore buy sell junk classic cars....
Quote
Love 50's cars...Back east they are impossible to dig up....
More or less the ame thing back home (Manitoba, Canada). Although there the winters were so cold for Dec thru to Feb salt didn't help the roads so we dodn't have a s much salt to deal with as the East. However most all 50's car would have cancer to some degree. One thing I noticed when I first visited New Mexico 23 years ago was the number of 50's vinatge detroit iron driving around in everyday non restored condition.
I love the cars or my youth.
Trivia: You may be aware of some the the differences between some US and Canadian models of the "same" car. Like Canadian Pontiac's of the 50's were really Chevy's with sheet metal changes that mimicked the US models. The strangest model year was the '59, the year Pontiac went "wide-track". The Canadian models had the wide bodies but a narrower track.
Yes I am aware of the Pontiac difference..I have a 64 bonneville convertible from Kentucky....Got it ten years ago it has been in storage inside since 1970....Rust free needs restored....389 hi-po garnet red with black top and matching red leather interior...
In Canada the pontiacs used the Chevrolet engines...and they had models that were chevy's with pontiac badging...Such as the Canso acadian(66 chevy II nova) and the Beaumont (Chevelle)
My dad has an auto salvage and I grew up pulling fenders and doors off mostly 60's cars in the yard....They are all gone now crushed they got so rusty....
Down here in SC the rain kills the 50's cars....It rains so much that when the window rubbers dry out water gets into the floor pans and trunk pans and rusts them out from the inside out
I junk 2-3 cars a month...Mostly 4 doors and rusted 2 door cars....I am an addict...My wife says I need to go into car rehab
My first car was a 2-door Dodge station wagon--from somewhere in the 50's--'56 maybe. Apparently it was the Canadian model, modified for sale in Hawaii (no heater!) Before I got it it had been parked--rear end out--in a carport in Hilo, where it truly does rain a lot The back end was rusty enough that one day some nice person was changing a flat for me, got tired of the back window--held only by one of its hinges (two piece window went up, tailgate came down like the one a truck) falling down on his head, so he wrenched the durned thing off. Which meant that the hole in the back seat right over the hole in the muffler would pour black smoke out the back window every time we went up a hill.
It made a great beach wagon. Until it finally died.
But I didn't have any GM vehicles until this century.
Amanda
Funny enough they made heater delete cars ford chev and dodge until 1967 I believe in CA, AZ, and HI I believe maybe that the last year for the Dodge heater delete was 1966....In my drag car I do not have to keep the heater because they came without them from the factory...Which saves me a bunch of weight.
I have had several 55-56 chevrolets from California that were heater delete....Nasty trying to drive them home to Canada in the winter..... :o
Hi guys:
Yes, Seth is my son and has posted here as "Maui Wowee". But he has changed jobs. He is now working and living at a neighboring farm and they don't have even the slow dialup that he had before. His old Dell laptop sits alone in the corner.
He was here about two weeks ago as was his older brother. It was good to see them both and to confirm that Seth is still alive as he has pretty much given up on new technology such as the telephone! :D
He's a good kid and certainly has honed his self-sufficiency skills. [highlight]Mr Organic [/highlight]to be sure.
He's pretty harsh on me, of course. "All you ever do is talk and type, dad!" He would prefer if I gardened all day...
Seth wasn't a problem -- in fact I kind of miss the old Maui Wowee. Maybe we'll hear from him some day -- he sure knows how to straighten the unthinking old timers out. It only took a bit of searching for me to figure him out. :)
I was talking about the nude Asian pictures that "Donald" posted in my name. Seems he's blocked pretty well now.
Nice to know Seth is doing OK.
Better get that garden going, John -- apocalypse may strike this year. :)
Hey Peter! Sometimes it takes me a moment or longer to catch on to everything. :-? I had not realized you were from eastern Canada... at least that's what I think I figured out. So of course you knew all about the older Canadian car differences. :)
What do you drag race? For a couple years back in the early seventies I used to pit crew for one friend's BB funny car and another friend's alky burning motorcycle. Loads of fun! [smiley=laugh.gif] Then the left turn-right turn bug bit me and I wandered off into sports car road racing land and spent my own small fortune there. Still love that big American V8 thunder though. ;D
promise not to laugh
I like to drag race slant 6 valiants... Wanting to build a 69 valiant...Cannot find one that suits me...So the earlier valiant is what I have now...
I like the 66 and older valiants...They are over 100 pounds lighter.... My 6 cylinder car with my 190 pound arse in it and fuel weighs under 2800 pounds...
I have no money to mess with it of late...wife and a house will do that to a guy....I want to get the car into the 12 seconds...12.99 would make me a happy man...
Naturally aspirated slant 6...Bored to the max, stroked a little...Hyperpak 4 barrel aluminum intake...With a header...Crashbox 4 speed (normal 4 speed with every second gear filed so you can speed shift under pressure without hitting the clutch...)
Luckily for me a couple Genius men out in California started to mess with the slant 25 years ago...Perfecting techniques for lightening the rods and crankshaft...allowing for higher RPM without fear of blowing up the engine....
I need to finish a head for the new motor...Time as much as anything is killing me...It needs a couple hundred man hours of porting and polishing...then it can be machined for oversize valves and have relief cuts for the combustion chambers...etc.....
The cool thing about the slant 6 is that there is a club here in the south east and they race at a dozen local tracks and have dlant 6 events....One in Bristol Tn coming up...Several in Ga and NC.....So I can have fun on the cheap...
I will not have any more than $3500 in the race car with it getting in the 12's...Unless I am dead wrong about the car
It stinks that I have assisted in the building of local stock cars for circle track racing and some drag cars as well....and I cannot go racing because I do not have the money....
Cool that my name is going on a local drag car and stock car this year....I work on and partially sponsor (with parts only) their cars...so my name goes on the side of the car....
It is a curse having more than one hobby... Unless you are rich enough that you can just pay for everything and never run out of money or have to worry about bills.
I am going to post some pics of a warehouse I found locally here in Lake City SC...I fell in love with it and showed it to the wife and she wants me to buy it and renovate it after the house is finished...She has this idea to open up a farmers market....
Where in the name of God is the money going to come from for all of this I keep asking her.... Nevermind that someone in our church let it slip that the building can be bought for nothing....
No laughing here Benevolence. My foray into the road racing was with a 4 cyl. Volvo 122S sedan. Strong engine; 5 main bearing. Not too many folks think of Volvos as racers. There was a company in Portland, OR that had goodies for them. They had a new modified cast head that breathed deep and made a real killer engine when combined with everything else.
My brother-in-law used to race a 6 cyl Acadian (Chevy II) in L/stock I think it was. Lots of fun for the bucks expended. He did pretty good; ran a 4.11 rear end.
My Dad had a Valiant for a number of years. That was called a G-engine I think..
Good luck on porting & polishing the head for your slant-six. That'll make a big difference.
Well you port and polish until you lose your mind...And then you port and polish some more...You drill it out for oversize valves...You ceramic coat the oversize valves...And the boss the sides of the combustion chambers for the huge valves.. clearance issues....
And you take the head to the flow bench guy to have it tested...And if you do not have the specs where they need to be....you go back and try to port and polish some more....
Luckily some super smart drag racers have their test data and flow charts published so you can tell when it is correct...And then seramic coat the inside of the chambers on the head....
For a few years now I have toyed with the idea of pouring a newly designed head for the slant...I would need help though and access to a real machine shop....Neither are available to me presently..
Should be able to get another 50 horses and shave 20-30 pounds in weight with a newly designed head....
We are talking something stupid like a 1000 man hours to design and successfully build the head...the first one is the hard one after you get it figured out they become much easier....
No way I can invest in a project like that and pay the bills....
I can just see me trying to explain that to the wife....hehe...better I tell her I have a mistress or something...That she would expect and maybe understand... :)
Quote.hehe...better I tell her I have a mistress or something...That she would expect and maybe understand... :)
I totally understand. :)
I paid a shade over $1K :o for a single bare 4 cyl newly designed head, flow tested and guaranteed; in 1970 dollars. Add the $$$ for the valves, springs, Weber carbs, and so on and it was a very expensive head. But it breathed real fire into the engine.
Of course the money pit didn't end there... ::)
Being single and accountable to nobody else helped. :)
well at least you understand how dramatic the power gains can be from a oval port head with corrections in the flow of the chambers...
hehe...I already have the car, rear axle, transmission.... Getting the head would just about do it for me...
Of course everyone at the slant 6 race would pester me to death wanting to find out where the head came from...
If only I was smart enough to make it happen....It would be soooo cool to race and then after when everyone was having a beer in the pits casually open the hood to gauge the look on people's faces as they see the custom 1 off aluminum head for the car
By the way I love the P122 S volvos....Never raced them...But had a rust free California Volvo a few years ago....Super neat little car...Had a 2 carb intake on it and a header with performance exhaust....worked pretty decently
they are fairly rusty here in the Carolinas...Sadly... I have gone on a few wild goose chases to look at some that are supposed to be solid ::)
Yuck.... I wish there was a barfie emoticon here so I could just post a picture of someone throwing up...
I will have another P122....And I want a Notchback Type III Volkswagon.... You are out in the dry climate....If you see a volvo or a Notchback VW let me KNOW!!!!
I'm waiting for you two to get into hot rodding Cummins Diesels. :)
Now that there is a place for this stuff, here is a cool video my SIL sent me -- I don't know who or where but still cool.
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/th_hillclimb.jpg) (https://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/?action=view¤t=hillclimb.flv)
Glenn
Not much of a diesel man myself...Only because I am not into large trucks or heavy machinery...
The first generation pickup truck diesels were absolute junk....And the First couple generation car diesels were severely underpowered.
I had an old Rabbit diesel...14 years ago...It was noisy choppy and stunk like a furnace in addition to being underpowered....The damned thing gave 50 miles to the gallon...(Canadian gallons are a little larger than the USA gallon)
Now that in Europe Passenger car diesel engines are quiet, silky smooth and they have made huge strides in making the Diesels emission friendly (huge part of this is the low sulphur diesel fuel)
Only now Diesel is 20% more expensive than Gasoline...So much of the added mileage per tank you would see is evaporated by the higher cost... When you factor in the the additional cost to get the diesel engine in the car in North America Versus the same car with the gasoline engine...Most today will just opt for the gasoline engine and be done with it.
So my experience with diesel engines is quite limited.
As far as hot rodding the diesel...I do know several people that have added performance chips and exhaust to their new Cumming diesel pickups.... You can add another 30 horsepower so easily and actually slightly improve mileage...
I can ask some questions at the next local car club meeting...I am one of the only mopar guys there that does not have the money to run out and buy himself a new diesel dually for an everyday driver... :o
I was for a drive recently in a cummings diesel dually with the chip and a performance exhaust and it would burn rubber man... Squeal the tires as the automatic transmission went through the first three gears....Chirping like a bird on steroids...
Pretty impressive stuff if you ask me...
It will be 20 years before I can afford the same truck... ;D
I dunno how that is even possible man.....Balls of steel comes to mind...
Maybe they are tilting the camera for an extra effect????
WOW
yes talking about the truck that looks like it is climbing straight up towards outer space
First gen Cummins was a bit short on power but still a 1/2 million mile engine - gave my 92 to my buddy in trade for what ever--- He loves it and gets over 20 mpg in a full size 4x4 3/4 ton.
I have a 60 HP chip and doing near 300 HP on a 99 24v Cummins-- would burn the duals before I loaded it down - still does a little in first -automatic at 11000 lbs. Upping the exhaust from 3" to 4" adds 28 horsepower.. cheaply - that is next.
I wouldn't buy new either - this one was $15995 - I won't pay $50000 for a new one. It is nice and still does the job. A necessity for here in the mountains in the winter and for work.
see you know all about the hot rodding...
I was not aware the chip was good for 60 hp...I knew the exhaust was a decent gain...
330 horses on the diesel and it still working like a stock engine without any driveability problems isvery impressive. in my opinion anyways
Question, what does the chip and exhaust modifications do to the truck for emission testing...They do not have the emission testing here in SC...I know california is pretty strict on a lot of stuff
It doesn't change much if done properly. The 24v is especially clean burning due to the injector in the center of the cylinder. No cat needed. If there is enough boost it keeps down exhaust gas temperature and smoke.
Chips on the 24v are available to take the stock engine up 200 hp more but most of the better ones go to 160 HP in about 5 switchable steps. Going over 60 hp requires beefing up the transmission with a better converter and valve body. I just did that a couple months ago and am slowly building up from there. Nearly all factory converters are sloppy junk. My mileage came up about 2 miles per gallon when I changed converters and put in a Suncoast Valve body. There are better parts available for the trans also that become necessary as you get more horses.
The truck gets more reliable and uses less fuel as improvements are made -at least to a point.
Glenn
The problem is that it is so expensive to get anything done....Damned mechanics ;)
A lot of shops here charge $80 an hour :o
But I too am very impressed that with a little tinkering you can take a truck like yours...Do minor improvements to the transmission exhaust and computer chip and improve fuel mileage and power...
Makes you wonder why detroit does not go with smaller engines for more fuel efficiency and make these improvements we are talking about standard
We have talked about global warming the environment and use of fossil fuels in several threads....This is just another example of how the government and detroit do not want america saving money on fuel or getting better mileage
Detroit makes no money on selling better products...And the government loses it's largest tax resource if we start using less fuel and saving on the fuel we do buy ( because of a drop in demand)
Re: the hillclimb. I was sure the guy was going to fall over backwards, then when he didn't was sure he was going to roll all the way down sideways. Then he didn't. :o Wow!
I like this one on youtube. he rolls but does it very gracefully and recovers.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=McBznI6h2jA
Quote
By the way I love the P122 S volvos....Never raced them...But had a rust free California Volvo a few years ago....Super neat little car...Had a 2 carb intake on it and a header with performance exhaust....worked pretty decently
I will have another P122....And I want a Notchback Type III Volkswagon.... You are out in the dry climate....If you see a volvo or a Notchback VW let me KNOW!!!!
Those SU's were strange but effective carbs. It never seemed quite right somehow to have to check the oil in your carbs, though. I ended up with twin Weber DCOE 45's. I had a few of those volvos for the street too; a 121 (same car 1959 with a single downdraft carb; a 123GT, same car with O/D trans, diff badges, posi rear end, trim, seats different. That was a '69 with a B20 engine (2 litre, bored out to 2.2) The racer broke rear axles so I ended up with a 9" Ford under it. I liked the 9" Ford for it's removable carrier... could change the gear to suit track.
THere are a couple 122S's I see around here but the owners get very protective about them when asked if they want to sell. I've got first dibs on a nice red 2 door.
QuoteThe problem is that it is so expensive to get anything done....Damned mechanics
A lot of shops here charge $80 an hour
Same here or even higher.
If I had to use mechanics at shops my truck wouldn't be running. I got on a forum called DTR (for Dodge Cummins - all performance ranges). I have a couple mechanic friends and my buddy I gave my other diesel to if I don't want to work on it myself.
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/index.php
It is much like this one with 11000 members. Most people on there will not let a mechanic or a dealer touch their trucks unless there is no way around it.
On that forum you can learn to do nearly anything or repair any problem with your truck by yourself including find computer code problems and directions right to the guilty part or sensor.
That was a great unbelievable video too, Don.
Some of these guys must have huevos the size of grapefruit. :o
183 cu inches - I can relate to that.
That road looks very much like the road to work on my project in Coulterville that took out my factory torque converter except most of it has no guard rails. A county worker went over the side 600 feet down to his death last year.
QuoteThat was a great unbelievable video too, Don.
Some of these guys must have huevos the size of grapefruit. :o
Absolutely!
On another front, here's a very fast little racer on youtube as well. Well equipped driver too I imagine
http://youtube.com/watch?v=Wgzi7A02kSY
It's a 1350 lb road racer with a BMW 3.0 litre engine. Ooops, sorry there Glenn, I went metric for a moment. That's 183 cu. inches or a little over 3/4 of a gallon. :) (//%5BIMG%5Dhttps://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/NormaM203litreBMW.jpg)[/img]
I don't know what happened there but somehow my reply came up before your posting -- administrative powers getting the best of me I guess. :-/
Quoteno guard rails.
There are a number of mountain roads around NM, CO UT with no guardrails. On some of them I've told it's because in winter they need to be able to plow the snow over the side. True?? Dunno, but I've seen the trucks pushing the snow over... no rotary plow throwing the stuff.
That's cool - I thought I lost it there for a minute----
I have in the past accidentally hit the modify button on a members post, did my reply then returned to find the post gone. I may be omnipotent. :-/
Could be true - speaking of which - we got snow today.
In our case there would be about 6 miles of guardrail necessary on just that one stretch and the rest of the road while not that bad would need it too - probably around 20 miles -- so forget it. In fact the whole road could use it. Not a place to drink and drive. :)
hehe
My drag car has a glass front clip on it as well ::)...Gotta shave the weight where you can...
Next one I build after this one will be a newer car so that I can have glass doors and better weight transfer....Through the wheelbase...
I would entertain an offer to sell the current project and to get a 67-69 valiant...Because the 70-72 duster front clip is the same thing and they are making cheap glass front ends and doors and bumpers...
I should be able to shave off several hundred pounds just replacing the clip doors bumpers...And then maybe another hundred pounds swapping out the glass with lexan
Still those cars are a little heavier than the 65 and 66 valiants...I can get more of the weight off the front of the car through the glass parts and I should get a better weight transfer because of it.
Well this is what my mind is telling me anyways
I keep a autocad drawing of the aluminum slant oval port head hanging over my computer... After the house is finished I will start looking back at it...
Just because people say I cannot do it I guess.... We will just not tell the wife about it.... I will have to start pouring beer on my clothes and in my eyes after working hours in the shop and coming into the house at 3 am....So that she thinks I am just a drunk....Not a fool ;)
Quotehehe
My drag car has a glass front clip on it as well ::)...Gotta shave the weight where you can...
;)
Ah!! 8-) f-glass parts... definitely a serious car Peter. Isn't it a wonder all the special stuff you can find! :)
Don
Trying to get a slant 6 race car to run 12.99 without turbo or nitrous...You have to make sure you shave off as much weight as possible...
I like to drive the car on the street some...Take it out on Saturday nights to the cruise in or local rod runs... So it has to be functional
Fiberglass is expensive... very much so...But it is worth it...I can always bolt the original panels back on later if needed and it looks good... They have come a long way and panels today actually fit! :o If you can shave a few hundred pounds off the front of the car and have it functional and looking original... I wonder why everyone does not do it?
The fiberglass is the difference between 13.5 and hopefully 12.99 for me
The slant six was one of the best engines ever made. Chrysler - Dodge or whoever slanted the cyls to prevent excess wear and less friction. It was a great idea and is now being done in many small engines.
Quote(the repair stuff was in British!)
But I'm not sure there ever was--or will be--a more comfortable car.
Thank goodness Volvo didn't use British Lucas electrical parts!!
I never owned a Volvo newer than the 123GT; well actually I had a 142 for a couple weeks during a car trading phase... :-/ Anyhow they all had comfy seats. The lumbar tension adjustment was nice.
(altogether I owned over a dozen 122 series; buy cheap, sell higher... got a lot of friend's into them)
Glenn, is there a story behind the '19 and/or '26 Dodge? :-? (sittin' here with a cold, watchin' the NASCAR boys go roundy round.)
Funny Story about Lucas Electronics....We would say..
Powered by Lucas..Lord of the Darkness....Well because They never worked and because it was pure junk you were in the darl more than not
Don...Man I have oodles and oodles of pictures of cars....The last three years I have owned hundreds I can send you some of the neat ones... I bought 6 vehicles yesterday....Some of them are pure junk...I am always buying...
70 coronet 4 door 69,000 mile grandma car...Going to cut up for mint clip, am/fm radio, ps, pb, ac...Good dash pad etc
58 Chevy Apache...327, auto...Camaro Subframe (which I hate)
71 Plymouth scamp...360 4 speed, 8 3/4 .488 suregrip with a sharkstooth...Nice car needs paint
79 Ford pickup...302 auto...bought to junk for the motor, trans
73 Chevy pickup...Rusted out Ohio truck with low mileage 350 4 bolt main engine...Going to junk asap
76 ford granada..Bought for the 302 auto with disc brakes...parts going a 65 falcon
I wish that I could buy more old old cars...But I need to buy a couple later model cars per week to part out...So that I have Disk Brakes power steering... motors and transmissions for some of the projects... I sell a lot of parts...I run free classified ads in the local classified papers and I can sell the heck out of any motor.... I drag cars home from people's yards...Get em running and let the buyer listen to it run....And then pull it then and there when they pay me... Good way to raise cash when I have half a dozen extra motors lying around....Every time I advertise running engines I sell them within days...I sell them reasonable and I let the customer hear it run....
Strip out the stuff I can use and haul everything else to the crusher...I do not have the land to let the cars sit....So I haul several a month to the crusher....After I pick what I can use.
I wish I had more land I hate to throw anything away....There are a lot of good parts on some of the cars I crush out.... Need to save up for some more land I guess.
I cannot watch Nascar too much....First 25 laps and last 25 laps....Those 400 lap races get awfully boring for me
I guess I sort of do with darts and dusters what you do with p122's I started buying them about 5 years ago and I was buying them for 1-200 bucks....Get em running and sell them for a small profit.... Started down here in SC three years ago with one car...2 years later I had 40 of the damned things...*LOL*
I tell my wife I want 365 running driving cars... one for every day of the year...She thinks I am kidding.... :)
QuoteGlenn, is there a story behind the '19 and/or '26 Dodge? :-? (sittin' here with a cold, watchin' the NASCAR boys go roundy round.)
Matter of fact I probably can come up with a story about them. :)
As I mentioned I was a mechanic for Dodge - started there sweeping floors and doing lube jobs before I graduated from THS in Lincoln City, Oregon. I simply got out the Dodge service manual on every problem there was there and read up then fixed the problem. Assisting the head mechanic there I soon became second in line. He quit and went to Chevrolet and that moved me to the front. I was doing any type of job that came in including differential overhauls, auto trans OH and even a few engines. Many tuneups and I did every detail I could find by the book, so did pretty good.
I quit there in my second year and went to the diesel shop to learn diesel work and welding.
Over the years I tried Chevy and Ford trucks but at least for me the Dodge had a better dependability record so I came back.
My friend, Al and and another old timer got me interested in antique engines - the old one lungers around 1978, so I got a pretty good little collection of them going. I commonly reviewed the classifieds in the paper and just casually watched for interesting deals.
The combination of working for Dodge and collecting gas engines made it only natural that I would jump on a deal to get an old Dodge car. I found the 1919 listed at a place in Fresno and had to at least take a look at it. It wasn't too great - painted black after the rust had been sanded off with a grinder but it was unique, original for the most part and drivable under it's own power. As I recall I got it for $5000.
QuoteThe U.S. Army employed Dodge trucks and cars extensively in World
War I, but even earlier, in 1916, Dodge had already received an unexpected
endorsement for its vehicles during the American Punitive Expedition against
Pancho Villa and his rebel forces in Mexico. There, using three Dodge cars,
Lieutenant George S. Patton, Jr., led a daring raid against a "bandit" stronghold
in what may have been the first mechanized charge in military history.
Afterward, Patton's commander, John H. "Black Jack" Pershing, was so taken
with the automobile's rugged reliability he notified the U.S. War Department
that in future he wanted only Dodges for the Mexican campaign. In all, the Army
bought 250 of the touring cars for service in the Mexican Badlands.
Copyright 1998-2004 DaimlerChrysler. All Rights Reserved.
More here http://www.chryslerheritage.com/sec500_pdf/Chapter4.pdf
Internet research on the 1919 Dodge Roadster revealed an interesting story about Pancho Villa.
Quote"This day, Villa had picked up a consignment of gold with which to pay his Canutillo ranch staff and was driving through the city in his black 1919 Dodge roadster when a group..."
I could tell you the end but that would ruin it. Here is the story. I think I posted it elsewhere but let's make it easy. :)
In Pursuit of Pancho Villa 1916-1917 (http://www.hsgng.org/pages/pancho.htm)
Actually found my other posting on Google.
http://www.countryplans.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1163568233/28
I found the 1926 at a tractor parts dealer and decided I needed it also. It wasn't an extreme restoration but was a much better one than the 1919. It also was completely original. It did have an electric fuel pump added for driveability. Since they aren't making any more of them I figure they will always be worth something.
I'm not hot on making antiques into street rods unless they are such a basket case that that is all that can be done to get them back on the road.
Note that the early Dodges were nearly all steel - similar to modern unibody construction on the chassis so over the years they stayed together much better that the other brands wood and steel construction. Dodge was also a 12V electrical system until late 1926 when they went to 6V systems - a mistake in my opinion. Starter/generator was chained directly to the crankshaft with a silent chain similar to a timing chain. Mine are both 12V.
There's your story. :)
Found Pancho's car. Exactly like mine. (plus holes) :o
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b8/Pancho_villa_car.jpg/800px-Pancho_villa_car.jpg)
from
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chihuahua,_Chihuahua
Thanks Glenn; great history lesson for the day. I knew you'd have something interesting to say. ;) And nice photo of Pancho's car.
I had an uncle with a small farm back home. Years after he died and his son sold off the farm I was asked if there was anything I wanted. I claimed an Automatic Combination Tool, the predecessor to the Hi-Lift jack, a Stevens single shot lever action falling block .22 with a slightly bent barrel (I learned to shoot on it and learned the curve the bullet took to the right and up a hair), an anvil, and a John Deere one lung engine. I still have all four items. The engine has a water chamber on top for cooling and was known as a hit and miss, IIRC. It's just about all cast iron right down to the four wheels it rides on.
I really get interested in history and try to study up on the things I acquire. Some of it is exceptionally interesting like the old Dodge.
One lungers - yep, that's the animal. The John Deere. I have a bunch of other brands - mostly Fairbanks-Morse, but some others also. Just got my big anvil back from the other place - my son didn't want me to take it but he decided to go to LA, so now I can collect my stuff as I get the shop improved here to have a place for it.
I knew of Pancho's car for several years. This is the first time I was able to find a photo of it. :)
Pretty awesome man
Whoever takes your photos is good at it.....
Nice stance on the Volvo...How many horsepower were you running... I love road racing....Never had a car for it though... In Canada where I lived it was a no go...Small population base and not much interest...The road race track was mostly for motorcyle racing only...
Down here in Carolina there are a couple good road courses...I have no time to get into it...I barely touch the valiant drag project
I guess it is a pipe dream for me right now.... Nascar is boring... only left turns...Drag racing is only straight lines...
I have always thought road racing was more fun to watch....
The best drivers in the world are those rally car drivers.....Man they are amazing... 80 miles an hour with no safety barricades through the dirt in the woods...Lose control and you are in the trees and the race is over.....No getting the car fixed and getting back out there like Nascar
I watched a few youtube videos of road racing and It was hairy to even watch...*LOL*
Those guys can drive.
Quote
Whoever takes your photos is good at it.....
It was a day job co-worker. Camera was a motor drive Nikon F2, probably either a Nikkor 80-200 or the 300mm tele lens. He did a fine job. Made a few dollars selling photos to the car owners.
Quote
Nice stance on the Volvo...How many horsepower were you running...
1 3/8" front anti-sway bar, 1" adjustable (from inside while moving) rear bar. Shorter stiffer springs. Also had an in-car proportioning valve for the front/rear brake balance.
Neither engine or car was ever on a dyno but I figure it had to be pulling 200+ from the 110 cu.in. at up to 7200 rpm's
QuoteNascar is boring... only left turns...Drag racing is only straight lines... I have always thought road racing was more fun to watch....
I agree. But NASCAR on road courses is a whole bunch of fun!
Quote
The best drivers in the world are those rally car drivers.....Man they are amazing...
Only thing I don't like about rallies is that they are usually not a very spectator friendly type of racing. You can hang out at a good spot and see all the cars go by, then that's usually it. Back in the 60's there was a works driver for SAAB, Eric "on the roof" Carlson who was amazing. He was my idol for a while. He had arms like hams... They ran a locked diff in the front wheel drive car. Making a locked front diff turn corners is quite a feat. (I know from slow speed running the 4X4... when the front is locked it doesn't like to turn)
QuoteDrag racing is only straight lines...
But drag racing is where a lot of us first wet out feet and succumbed to the speed bug. I never did much myself, unless you count the stupid street racing I fell for as a kid. My Dad had a "mid life" moment and ordered a 1962 Chevy Biscayne (bottom line 2 door sedan, cheap looking car) with a 396 cu. in V8 and a three on the tree tranny. A real sleeper. I removed the 396 emblems and cleaned darned near everyone's clock. There's no replacement for displacement!! Of course it had trouble turning corners and stopping like every other american iron of the era.
200 horse is a lot in a 4 cylinder car that small and light...
I had a hotrod corvair once that was bored out .060 it had roller rockers and I balanced the crank and rods...It was stock 140 horse with 4 carbs... It was 210 horse when I was done with it and the car was so fast it was scary.....Handled like a dream would kill a porsche...I road raced (stupidly in my youth) and absolutely destroyed a couple 88 Mustang GT cars....I had enough to stay away from them on long straights...And I lost them in the corners...
I installed a sticky set of Yokohama tires on the car...Aluminum slot mags...Nothing fancy on the suspension...Heavy duty gas shocks all the way around and oversize front and rear sway bars... 7 inch wide wheels
No seat belt in a turn meant you were steering the car from the passenger seat.... no way you could stay in seat...Almost wrecked it first test drive...
Learned quickly that a 5 point harness was needed to stay in the seat... I had quick ratio steering on the car with aftermarket steering arms...
Man I loved that car....I got rid of it because there was no place to race it...probably a good thing I did..I am still alive today :)
But I bet the Volvo was faster....200 horse in that little car...Lighter smaller with a perfect center of gravity and probably close to 50/50 weight distribution.
Just an awesome car man...
Wow, your mention of the Corvair brought back some memories. :)
The Yenko Stinger for one. Don Yenko built and sold a number of them. They were fairly popular in SCCA racing for a time. ;D
That in turn reminded me of a guy I went to high school with. He stuffed a turbo Corvair into a VW Carmen Ghia... underbraked.
And thirdly, another guy who placed a small block chevy midships in an old VW bus... seriously underbraked and had cooling problems.
No seat belts and vinyl seats... bad combo especially with a bench seat. :o . I used a four point harness and a Recaro seat.
With the removal of steel parts and their replacement with fibreglass or aluminum, plus the ability to weld in heavy duty steel bracing in the rear (the rules did not allow bolting in or even welding in steel that was obviously just for weight, but nothing said you couldn't use 3/8" steel where something lighter would do.) the weight distribution came in around 55/45.
The Yenko car had a few great features...
Quick ratio steering...Oil cooler...Disc Brakes...larger sway bats and he tinkered with the engine cam and exhaust to add a few more horsepower
His car would be a better race car...I just added a lot more power
As for the stingers themselves there was several stages... If you wanted an all out stinger they were extremely fast and modified a fair bit from a stock original car...
The only one I have ever driven was a stage III...Awesome was the only word to describe it...
A Shame that no a single penny of GM money went into racing or racing development for the Corvair
Simply having GM come up with a beefed tuned suspension...a hotter cam and exhaust would have made the Corvair a true SCCA racing legend
Here's a question for you Peter. Would you happen to have a 5 speed transmission laying around for a '91 Dodge Stealth twin turbo - 300hp? I probably couldn't afford it anyway. It's pretty well by itself - maybe one other model year will fit it as I remember. Changed the transfer case input shaft splines later I think. I had it to it's top speed at an undisclosed location. :o
Mine is jambed and won't go into first so I'm thinking of having my neighbor pull it - probably bent the synchro's or something stupid.
QuoteMine is jambed and won't go into first
slightly better than being stuck IN first :) not kind to the clutch tho. :'(
Yes Glenn it is likely the synchros... Most 5 speeds main shaft runs off third gear...I may not be explaining that well....So if there is no noise in third gear it is not the main cluster gear....Might have broke first gear....I cannot see that ever happening....Did you miss a shift... how did it break?
Likely the synchros
I don't have one I will check for you though....I bet one can be found....But it is the ridiculous price that will bother you...
-Peter
Glenn
I have an idea for you...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190088678936&fromMakeTrack=true
I am close enough to this to pick up...If you buy the whole car for $1000....It has a noise in the crank...Meaning it needs to come apart be turned 0.10/0.10
At any rate....If you wanted t obuy the car...I could pull the trans for you...And next time I head west I can drop it off....I can part the rest of the car on ebay or a dodge stealth website and we can split the proceeds...You should be able to recover most all of your transmission cost...
If by chance you can buy a transmission out there with warranty for a couple hundred bucks... go for it...
But this car has oodles of parts...the all wheel drive... twin turbos, engine...Rally wheels....Body parts....Etc... etc....
Cheap cars are almost always worth 3 times as much parted out.... So this car should part out for $3000....We need to subtract whatever a junkyard would charge for the transmission....
This may not be a great idea...or even a good one....But it is an idea...
And the cool thing is I get to load and unload the car on the trailer so I get to shift it... through the gears
That may be an idea- what do you think max value would be? It's up to 990 now.
Miss a shift - moi? I did light up all 4 once - that could have stressed it but it was working after that. It just started absolutely refusing to go into 1st. Couldnt even tap the shift levers to get it in. Researching it on the net showed that it was an occasional common problem. There were better replacement parts available if I recall correctly.
Glenn
Ebay is a funny place.. cars you think will go high often do not get a bid.. and vice versa... I will try to locate a damaged car or a trans for you... I can usually find stuff in local auctions or whatever... I will keep you posted...
Yeah - it keeps going up. I once offered 1500 for a Bobcat type machine and thought that was too much - engine was toast -- It went for 6000 on Ebay.
No big rush - I probably won't drive it much anyway. I may have my neighbor pull it for repair- I don't really have time to get into it. Maybe better to sell it but they don't seem to bring much.
Glenn
Well with the car all tore up it definately will not bring much...Getting an affordable transmission will be a good start to getting it back on the road...
I can only imagine how much fun it is to drive... ;)
You are right about that.
It is a real blast to drive when running right. It's a regular little rocket. :) Currently has some ignition problems too - probably plugs or wires or something but I don't drive it enough to fool with it in the condition it's in.
The Ebay one went for 2025 :o
Glenn
We could have parted it and you likely would have gotten the transmission for less than buying one at a junk yard...I bet they want $1000 for one used if you can find one.
Some things are stupidly expensive...
Souped up the Dodge truck a bit more today. 4" straight pipe exhaust from turbo to tail pipe. It is supposed to add appx. 28 horsepower to the 24 Valve Cummins and drop exhaust temp about 100 degrees. Now to go out and give it a try. Should be putting out around 310 HP now - maybe a bit more but don't know what some of the other mods do for improvement.
Pre-bent factory kit from Farmboy's Diesel Performance in North Carolina fit perfectly and even gave me enough slack to make it fit good under my hydraulic hoist for the dump bed.
The drop in the exhaust temp is especially nice. That'll enable it to work harder and not get all bothered. Not to forget the extra horses. :)
Tried it out - the additional horses are a bit hard to tell but what is not hard to tell is that I'm getting 3 lbs more boost now. I was running 24 lbs and now have 27 on the same hill so the horses have to be there. Exhaust ran a bit cooler but didn't watch it real close and it varies also.
You run a pyrometer?
Yup - Pyrometer, fuel pressure gauge (only way to keep a VP44 alive), boost gauge and transmission temperature gauge.
I think the pyro was down about 50 degrees or so - will have to watch it better next run.. I never used to get over 1100 degrees, now seems it was about 1000. Better data later. I plan on adding more horsepower later so put the pyro on it.
Fuel pressure minimum on a 2nd gen Cummins is 4 lbs - I have about 6 at wide open throttle - 12 at idle. Injector pump is cooled by fuel only. Plug a filter or loose a boost pump and its $1200 to $1400 for parts. :'(
Glenn, as the local diesel hot rodder I have a question. I've heard of (and don't know any more about it) a propane injection system for diesels. IYO is it any good? Is it cheap horsepower?
I've come across a hail damaged (body) '02 2500 that could be a cool way to haul my Cherokee (on trailer) to the cool 4x4 spots in UT.
A bit of a hassle with having to carry another fuel and refill a separate tank - screws up fuel mileage estimates a bit, but yes - it is a good safe way to pretty greatly up your horsepower if the transmission has been upgraded to handle it.
See here: http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=41 DIY is last. I haven't done it yet but thinking about it. Safety is a concern - must be failsafe for me to DIY. Otherwise the purchased units are probably the way to go.
Note that Fred tore the Torque Converter out of his Ford Powerstroke last weekend - same problem as other factory torque converters when you really try to work them with a diesel. Get a trans temp gauge put in the proper place - after the fluid exits the torque converter on its way to the cooler.
Torque converter and valve body need to be changed for dependability then after the rest of the trans goes it can be beefed up. Rest of it seems to be OK for a while -maybe a long while at least on the Dodge, after the above 2 parts are changed though. Per my supplier, Gus and my experience based on his advice. He seems to be correct.
A friend of mine owns a torque convertor business....Stock convertors are absolute trash....They glue junk clutch disks on the covertor...Making it unrebuildable...
When they cut them open on the lathe...They machine the convertor and upgrade it so that the better clutch disks can be installed..These are changeable...A huge improvement...
And it takes a few minutes to do it....The parts are dirt cheap...astonishing huh?
Makes you wonder why the dirt cheap, sturdier parts are not installed from the factory?
Just about any automatic becomes bulletproof with a better valve body and better clutches in the convertor....This way under load they still shift exactly as they were designed to...Meaning no additional wear and tear happens...And it prevents excessive heat...
I recommend aftermarket aluminum pan covers with fins for much improved cooling...and I recommend a massive and I mean massive trans cooler...Something the Size of your AC unit that sits in front of the radiator.
I also run lucas blend in my automatic transmission on my truck...Helps it run cooler and prevents the fluid from breaking down under a load when it gets hot... I do not believe all the crap about miracle fixes for a transmission...But it can sure as heck save a transmission from imploding if used properly.
QuoteMakes you wonder why the dirt cheap, sturdier parts are not installed from the factory?
Once again this can be answered with the simple advice - "Follow the money".
Parts and repairs are 40% of American auto manufacturers business. If something gets to be too good, they must re-engineer it to fail slightly after the warranty expires in most cases. Note that these weak link vehicles will perform OK for most people but will not stand up to heavy use.
76 Chevy pickup automatic was designed with plastic thrust washers so they would fail under heavy use. Brass parts were available to purchase on rebuild. This was no accident. It stopped me from ever buying GM products again. The Ford from hell stopped me from buying more Fords. Note that it was named that by the people who got it after I gave up on it.
Older Fords and Chevy's were better I think. I'm just plain sticking with the Dodge now and building it exactly the way I want it. Once I decided what and how I wanted it to be I find that it is much more useful here than any other truck I've had.
It still takes larger trucks for much larger jobs but this one has really increased what I can do on the small to medium jobs and saved much fuel too. Uses only 1/2 to 2/3 of the bigger truck to do much of the same work.
If I go Diesel...I think I will get a Late 80's early 90's international...The DT 466 is about the best diesel engine I have ever seen....Not overpowering.. but great mileage and they lasted forever.
I would love to find a low mileage crewcab...And then I would Put a headache rack on it so a car could go overhead...And then I would get a 4 or 5 car trailer...Depending on what the truck would scale....With me not having to get a CDL...
Being a crewcab I could sleep in the back when tired....Great for storage also...
Just an idea I have had for a long time now.... I am not a big diesel guy...And it makes me mad that they are pushing the price of diesel way above gasoline....
When it costs a fraction of the amount of gasoline to make the same amount of Diesel....
Why cannot we as a consumer do something about anything?
What I like about the 94+ Dodge engines is the ability to instantly boost the horsepower with a chip. Then there is the rest of the truck to consider and other brands will do the same thing but I don't know that much about them.
I know the Dodge is much easier to work on than the Ford as there is no room at all under the hood of the Ford. So - labor charges can be less if you hire it out.... but then which shop can you trust. The majority are not trustworthy. Mechanics and shops need to be researched and chosen carefully. I do my own work or use a few trusted friends. Dealers are pretty well off of the list except in emergency.
Glenn
even if you found a decent dealer or repair shop...They charge $80 and $90 an hour here to do repair work...OMG :o
I would not even pay that much for an hour of Carmen Electra's time... Not that a married man like myself would want anything to do with her ;)
Thanks for the propane/diesel info Glenn. Went and looked at it and he wants too much considering the mileage (150,000), all the hail dings, and that it needs tranny work. I've just started looking tho'; no rush at all
I agree the V8's (Fords are the only ones I've seen) are way too crowded under the hood. I also have other grudges against Ford; never owned a GM product in my life. The guys I know with the Dodge/Cummins all love them. Mind you so the the guys I know with Fords... :-?
The rates are similar here Peter. Not for me. I'm too tight and won't spend that kind of money on something I can do. These are mechanics, not brain surgeons.
Don - the Ford guys here like their Fords too - but the ones I know say they (the engines) are a real pain to work on.
Found the propane / r12 replacement thread discussion - long but interesting.
http://www.yarchive.net/ac/politics.html
Note it's called politics.
Fun video from the Saab Roadshow.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I88qOMVfA0M
Kids Build Soybean-Fueled Car
Futuristic After-School Project Wows Crowd At Philly Auto Show
http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2006/02/17/eveningnews/main1329941.shtml
Here you go . Don
It's here - http://www.indianmotorbikes.com/features/munro/munro.htm
I went to this movie also - It was great.
I rode a few. My sister got an old 250 Ducati that I put together with bailing wire and took to the hills. That thing would climb a tree. Many times I would go up a hill then not want to go back down. They always looked worse from the top -- then knowing that there was not much of a way to stop when you got to the brush and edge at the bottom.
Ducati !!! I had a '64 250 Diana Mach 3. Hot rodded the bejeebers out of it until it didn't like to run under 3K rpm's at all. Sold it and bought a '68 450 Desmo that was a real killer. Wish I had never sold them. :'( Rickman frame, forks, only thing Ducati left was the engine.
Everything always looks worse from the top. Never look down!
Then I went the other direction and bought an old BSA Gold Star single, and played around with "trials" bikes. Go slow and quietly. Also had a Norton 500 Manx. Anyone know what I'm talking about. Nother place, nother time.
Still love thumpers! http://www.motorcyclemuseum.org/classics/bike.asp?id=92
My son has some kind of a very basket case Norton sitting in pieces at our other place.
Not into bikes at all....Scary enough hot rodding something with 4 wheels in my experience...
I pretty much stay away from them now as I can't afford to be laid up unable to work because I dumped one having fun.
QuoteI pretty much stay away from them now as I can't afford to be laid up unable to work because I dumped one having fun.
Pretty much the same here. I haven't ridden a murder-cycle since 1984 when I sold off my BSA Victor and the Ducato Desmo.
Desmo animated flash link http://www.ducatidesmo.com/valves.htm
Glenn
Well when I was a kid I was not allowed to have a dirt bike...I was so angry...My mom worked in Neuro Surgery at the Hosputal though...Head and spine injuries...I would go see her at work and see what dirt bike injuries looked like.
When you crash one of those things a broken arm or leg is a small injury...We have nothing to protect snapping our head from our spine...
I am not into bikes at all... I prefer a seat belt and a roll cage around me when I race...
Do they use another cam to close the valve rather than a spring, Don - and is there a small spring to keep it tight against the seat?
The bikes were fun in their day, Peter, but I still got banged up on them quite often. Figured I better leave it for the younger guys with unbroken parts - I only broke a tip on my shoulder on a 6 wheel anphib. veh. and I had to work using only one arm for most things for a while.
QuoteDo they use another cam to close the valve rather than a spring, Don - and is there a small spring to keep it tight against the seat?
Sorta. A single OH bevel gear driven multi-lobe cam , two rockers per valve, 1 opens, the other slams it closed, light spring to hold shut for sealing. Very drastic closing ramp. The engine made a
lot of mechanical noise. Did you see the animation flash url I added above? It takes a while to get going. Imagine that at 9K rpm.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/volvo_racer/450desmo.jpg)
Only serious injury I had was to a knee and it bothers me to this day.
That makes sense to me. I never really worked on the engine - just bolted and bailing wired it to a frame - kicked it enough to get it going then tried to hang on. I could go up a hill too steep to walk up then pull a wheelie at the top.
I could hardly ever leave an engine alone. One thing I never did on a bike was hillclimb like that. Dirt trails, mild hills, trials and road use; twistier the better.
If you looked at the valve train ani did you notice there was no obvious method of lash adjustment? The valve end had a cap over it, available in a variety of thicknesses measured in thous. Ditto the lift collar. A real pain to adjust because you had to disassemble, change parts, reassemble, check, etc. But once you had it right it stayed that way for a long time.
Interesting design. One of the more interesting old valve designs I have seen over the years was the Willy's Knight sliding sleeve engine. Maybe not the most practical but interesting.
http://www.classiccarclub.org/knightsleevevalvekb.htm
http://www.scienceandsociety.co.uk/results.asp?image=10216617&wwwflag=2&imagepos=9#RelatedImages
Lots of reciprocating parts :) There's no end to man's inventiveness.
well it is pretty neat... but I like simplistic things...Seems to me there has to be a better way to make as much or more power than that.
I used to spend a lot of time as a young kid thinking about car design... light weight materials drag and fuel efficiency....And I firmly believe that simplicity needs to reign supreme...yes advances in technology are great...But simplifying the technology is when it is time to use it and then we benefit from it.
I hate the Toyota Prius.... because it is a lie and a scam...They charge a fortune for a economy car ...When you take any middle range economy car from the late 80's early 90s... Cavalier, Shadow, Tempo, Civic, Mazda 323...And just add some of the tech improvements to those platforms and you have a car that can outperform the Toyota Prius
Hell the Geo Metro was small and slightly underpowered...But the LSI version gave 55+ miles to the gallon. And it did so without a refined engine...It did so without advanced valve design...It had an outdated ignition and fuel injection system
Just redesigning the head with better valve design for compression increases without detonation and a better injection system would solve the lack of power problem and the car would easily give 60 miles to the gallon....a real 60 miles to the gallon that was achievable by grandma or a teen ager....I hate that they advertise the prius mileage and then there is a disclaimer that a professional driver got 60 miles a gallon driving under optimal conditions... i.e. Downhill with a tailwind ::)
Nothing super hi tech about it...No need for the ooohs and aaas I would rather a great idea prevail with a logical and simplistic approach...
I really believe that a small normalish looking sedan that was carbon fiber lightweight... 3 cylinder 1 litre with 12 valves and DOHC could give 60 Miles to the gallon without being a hybrid...It would have all kinds of power and be easy to work on... Seat 5 comfortably
And the car could be in the $10-12,000 price range...It would not have to look like a sports car like the scions do...I guess it would be the Model A or the Volkswagon of the 21st century...Cheap, depandable, with great mileage
With gasoline approaching $3.00 a gallon I know that a car like this would outsell the Prius and it would outsell the Civic and the domestic economy cars as well.
Why someone does not make this type of car...Is beyond me....Well I sort of think that the US government is in bed with the automakers and will not allow this car to be built.....Cannot make as much money in taxation of gasoline if everyone was getting 50-60 miles to the gallon.
The Prius represents a small portion of the cars sold and does not dip into tax revenues. The prius is expensive and they make a limited number of them.
If a car that gave 60 miles to the gallon was cheap and the best selling car in America...Gas tax revenues would start falling and the government is not going to stand idly by and allow that to happen.
All of our major gov. people now are oil industry representatives. Change will not happen now.
One thing I worry about at this point is that any of the ultra light cars with extremely high mileage will be at a great disadvantage in an accident. SUV's generally fare better.
A couple of my thoughts, Peter. The 2006 Honda Civic sitting in my garage is a vastly different Civic from the one that graced my driveway in 1990. THe newer one is longer, wider, higher and weighs about 500 pounds more. The '06 gets a real 32 mpg in my driving style (30.5 under DW heavier foot) compared to the 30 mpg the '90 gave. Things have gotten better. The newer model is many times safer in a crash as well.
I almost bought one of those 50+ mpg Geos back then, but sitting in one made me real nervous when I looked at the F-250 Ford across the way. And I think there's more of those running around the roads here than there are little cars.
I chose the new Civic because of safety, mileage, reliability, over all the rest, some which get better mileage. Even when talking $3 a gal gas I couldn't make the Prius make economic sense to me. DW wanted one. Yet there are many who love them. I don't like the way they sneak up behind you when you're walking and they're driving slow, like in a parking lot.
Don
you sort of made one of my points for me.... The 90 honda civic was a pretty good car....I have a 91 civic wagon my wife adores.
Okay here is the thing...The 90 civic had ample power room and was pretty safe.
You talk abot safety upgrades well you can make the civic safer just by installing 4 wheel disc brakes, airbags...Without adding weight.
But no the new civic is 500 pounds heavier and it has more power too...So the advances in valve design injection and ignition are lost...And the car gives about the same mileage to a tank of fuel.
Which is exactly what the government wants.
When gasoline is $3.00 a gallon or more depending on where you live...You would gladly give up a little of the extra power and room for a car that gave you an extra 15 miles to the gallon.
What I am advocating Don is in the 17 years from 1990 upto now the Civic could stay the same size and it should actually weigh less! Because of advancements in carbon components...And use of aluminum alloys in suspension and structural beams.
every 200 pounds you shave off the car equals 20% fuel efficiency...I am saying that if they wanted the civic could weigh 200 pounds less than it did in 1990...meaning another 6-7 miles to the gallon right there...So all of a sudden it is above 40 miles to the gallon...
And what people forget is that when you improve the cars drag and coefficient of friction...It takes less power to propel it forward...Meaning the car would have more power without bumping up the compression or going to a larger engine. When you reduce the weight you make the car more powerful as well.
So really the engine could be slightly smaller and work as good as the 1990 model...meaning another 10% improvement in Fuel efficieny...So the car is up above 45 miles to the gallon and this is a figure your son or aunto could achieve...A real 45 miles to the gallon with an automatic.
If Honda wanted to bring out the big guns and use things like the ecvt auto transmission...Or improvements to fuel injection and ignition..The automatic sedan would easily give 50 miles to the gallon and it would not be cramped for space or under powered...It would be a clean roomy car with adequate power and 50 real miles to the gallon....And it would not need to cost 20,000 or more because it was a hybrid with advanced technology.
But instead your new civic is larger heavier with a lot more power...And no gain in fuel efficiency despite having an advanced fuel injection and ignition system
Pick up trucks are all the same too...Chevy ford and dodge all have a V8 gasoline half ton that has over 300 horsepower...Which is staggering in a run of the mill half ton...Of course all the superb advancements in efficiency that improve mileage get tossed out the window because there is a monster motor stuffed under the hood
Points well taken. You're right the '06 Civic could be smaller, sized more like the older models, and I would love it even more. But that's not what they made. I needed a car right then; (the old one was nearly run over by an F-350 driver who didn't look and made a left turn into me. Insurance wrote it off.) I just didn't like any of the other cars I looked at. It's really too bad; this Civic is bigger than the first Accords were.
Anyhow here's a VW new bug that won't win any awards for fuel efficiency, but fits right into the "hot" rod theme. :o
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/volvo_racer/AB12_15_05copy.jpg)
Owner/builders website http://www.ronpatrickstuff.com/
The craftsmanship is simply outstanding. :) And at the end of his webpage is an even more "out there"project. :o
This should qualify as a hybrid, right? :)
'nother link http://www.devilducky.com/media/52194/
I want one of these.
http://corbinsparrow.com/_wsn/page10.html
The Corbin factory only made about 300 of them before they went out of business. And I think you could order them in almost any color you wanted. They had a web cam on the production line so you could watch your car being built. The remnants of the Corbin outfit has been taken over by this outfit. A bit out of my price range now though.
http://www.myersmotors.com
Jonsey, I'll take the teal/lime green one, but only if it can polka dotted too. :)
Never heard of them before. Cool!
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/volvo_racer/burnout.jpg)
and yes those are now very pricey :'(
Pretty cool. I saw them somewhere before. I didn't find the price on the site - maybe didn't look far enough. Electric powered.
You ride a gas powered bicycle, don't you , Jonesy? :-?
Here's an electric add on - I guess that would take the exercise part out of it though.
(http://spookytoothcycles.com/images/electric/main/36vsalers.jpg)
and gas,
(http://www.spookytoothcycles.com/images/bb_black/barebones_blacktext.jpg)
http://www.spookytoothcycles.com/
and other sources
http://bicycle-power.com/gas.html
I wanted on of these years ago - found an antique one but someone else bought it first.
I did manage to get a gas powered lawn mower though - one of the first in the world or at least very early. Brought it up here to the Underground complex a few weeks ago. It is about a 1925 ATCO from England and is powered by a Villiers motorcycle engine. Good story goes with it also.
Quote... powered by a Villiers motorcycle engine. Good story goes with it also.
All right! You're sitting there waiting to see how long it's going to take before someone bites and says.... "Go ahead! Get on with the story!" ::)
My first thought on seeing the electric bike was to think "OOOh I want one. Then, why? I ride for exercise... Maybe so if I go too far I can have the assist coming back? No, it's just that if you put a motor or engine on it I'll want it. More the so if it's not commonplace.
Actually I did use the time to continue getting dressed so I can go do something.
I found the mower in an antique shop. Seems I was listed in an antique engine magazine as having te capability of making parts for old engines years ago. A fellow from England contacted me about that and I asked him about the mower. It was and ATCO started by Chas Pugh Co. in 1921. He said the company was still in business and volunteered to get me information on it.
In a few weeks he sent all the information at a pretty good cost to him. A great old fellow. In it I found that Chas Pugh owned a foundry. He had a large estate and used a mule to pull his reel type mower around mowing the huge lawn.
Unfortunately the mule died and Mr. Pugh was in need of a way to get the lawn mowed. He commissioned his staff at the foundry to design a gas engine powered lawn mower for him. Apparently it was about 1921 that they made the first model. Mine is likely no later than 1925 and looks very much like the first model. Mine was running several years ago and I assume I can still get it started.
http://www.atco.co.uk/our_history.html
Check out this electric bike. http://youtube.com/watch?v=GDHJNG2PngQ
http://www.gizmag.com/go/7085/
Wow! Cheap to run too. 7 cents worth of electricity. But how much do 990 Li-Ion cells cost?
Not to mention on another video linked from that one - he fried a motor with the Li-Ion batteries -- had fire shooting out from between his legs - and not from cabbage. :-/ Wonder what that cost. :-?
dunno about any of that
But just put a transmission in a *&^%$ Saturn...And now that the bleeding has stopped in my hand I am about ready to own an electric vehicle... ;)
cannot be much worse than wrenching on gasoline pigs
Need a new set of Tweels?
http://www.rense.com/general76/tire.htm
(http://www.rense.com/1.imagesH/tiresdg.jpg)
Read about these a while ago on a high tech site....Quite ingenuitive
And not just for the high performance cars--although the picture looks cool if weird. Backhoes and forklifts can use them profitably. Nice idea.
Looks to me like all that flexing would break them but I guess not. :-/
Some people don't deserve to have a 4WD
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/JEEPFLIP.jpg)
video here...
http://mojoflix.com/Video/How-an-Idiot-Drives-a-Jeep-Uphill.html
more insanity... driver's stupid; once it starts to bounce all kinds of bad things can happen. Usually u-joints or axles break, if you're lucky... if you're not lucky....
http://mojoflix.com/Video/Woman-In-Jeep.html
The blame on this next one is partly on the spotter IMO
http://mojoflix.com/Video/Jeep-Rolls-Back.html
Last one looks like a combination - driver also kept going when it looked like things were not right, but the spotter definitely sent him the wrong way.
We have a guy in our 4WD club who is an amazing spotter. I'd trust him with my life any day. :o Oh! I guess I have. ::)
I'm just glad I wasn't in one of those jeeps :o
You'd be safe going for a ride with me tho', no matter what those posts way back look like.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/Hotel%20Rock/MountainDononthewaytoHotelRock.jpg)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/Hotel%20Rock/DSCN6504.jpg)
Yeh, right! :o ;D Does your wife ride with you? Glenn used to go 4 wheeling & has had his mom in tears - she was wedged in-between Glenn & his brother... those pictures look like you are doing the impossible! :-/
Her knuckles have turned white several times and it's a good thing I'm used to her shrieks or it might be distracting. :-/ I think her fingerprints are permanently impressed into the steel grab bar on the old Jeep.
That Utah sandstone offers very good traction. The surface is something like 120 or 150 grit sandpaper and the surface doesn't rub off like some inferior grades of sandstone in other places. Done slow in a Jeep like mine with an automatic tranny and locking differentials front and rear, a sensitive right foot balanced with the left on the brake it actually is almost easy.
That's not to say I haven't held my breath for incredible lengths of time or given my sphincter muscles a workout.
Ahhh - a fellow fourwheeler who knows what it's like to chew a hole in the seat cushion. Didn't even realize there were teeth there. :-/
QuoteSome people don't deserve to have a 4WD
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/JEEPFLIP.jpg)
video here...
http://mojoflix.com/Video/How-an-Idiot-Drives-a-Jeep-Uphill.html
more insanity... driver's stupid; once it starts to bounce all kinds of bad things can happen. Usually u-joints or axles break, if you're lucky... if you're not lucky....
http://mojoflix.com/Video/Woman-In-Jeep.html
The blame on this next one is partly on the spotter IMO
http://mojoflix.com/Video/Jeep-Rolls-Back.html
That last one is the Escalator in Moab. I've declined to do that one (so far) in my Ramcharger... but here's my buddy Flake in the same obstacle. He needed a little winching to correct it. He knew when to stop though.
(http://www.autoinsanity.com//pn/html/modules/gallery/albums/moab2003/Thaxto_R1_11_2.sized.jpg)
(http://www.autoinsanity.com//pn/html/modules/gallery/albums/moab2003/PICT0155.jpg)
My junk in Moab:
(http://www.autoinsanity.com//pn/html/modules/gallery/albums/m2004/PICT0289.jpg)
(http://www.autoinsanity.com//pn/html/modules/gallery/albums/moab2003/Thaxto_R1_10_1.sized.jpg)
I made my mother cry doing stuff like that. I knew the road was still there if I turned right at the top -- she didn't. I think she thought we were going to launch. :-/
That was at New Idria, above the Aurora mine.
Peter, the Utah sandstone is very "sticky" stuff. Superb traction! Mostly it appears to be worse, more scary, than it is. Mostly. :) Air the tires down for a nice big flexible footprint (my 32 x 11.5 x 15's get taken down to 15 lbs for "normal" 4-wheeling and 11-12 lbs. for the more challenging; I used to run my 33's on my CJ down to 8 lb. Bead lock wheels are available to prevent tire/rim separation.) Not making any sudden moves is a big part of the safety factor. If new to the trail do a lot of walking, getting in and out to check things out. A guide is always a good thing for a first time more difficult trail/obstacle. Sometimes what looks like the logical route is not. In Moab the Easter Jeep Safari is a good way to get introduced to their trails. Big crowd though.
What Scout do you have? an 80, 800 or a II? I had a 1980 (last year made) Scout Traveler with the wonderful Dana 300 transfer case. Real heavy tho'. Auto or stick? I now like an auto best tho' I must admit to having a certain fondness for a granny first gear stick.
What kind of locker? I've had Lock-Rites and Detroits, but the last two Jeeps have had ARB's F&R and I love them, except for the price tags. :(
Peter, FYI, If you ever come across a 1980 Scout junker grab the transfer case. '80 was the first (and only year for the Scout) that the Dana 300 case was made. It has a lower low-range than the previous model 18 & 20 cases. They're also sought after by guys with Jeeps and other 4x4's.
They can be modified to a twin stick arrangement where you can select either front or rear axles individually or together as is normal. With a locker in the front sometimes it's nice to be able to select only the front axle or to de-select it while in low range. Just some additional info to clutter up your mind, if you already weren't aware.
I don't like cleaning up after a mud bath :-/ not that we have much here very often, once in a while after a monsoon.
Peter - instead of putting a hard PTO out the back, why not put a hydraulic pump on the PTO then power everything with hydraulics.
Jeepers Glenn, you're always thinking... full of ideas! Going hydraulic, instead of a long shaft and so on might actually be safer as well. I had an uncle who lost a couple fingers to a tractor PTO, way back.
I think it may make sense if you are going to do one thing but to be versatile hydraulics is better. Hydraulic winches - tampers - augers - wood splitters - tons of things available or that you can build yourself.
A couple of my trucks are set up that way.
Sounds like the stuff I used to do, Peter. A friend and I took an old flathead Dodge truck - put a second trans in it backwards and had a tractor. The work quality was terrible but it worked and we had fun. We were about 15 Y O when we did that.
You could add a hydraulic pump attachment to the solid PTO for whenever you wanted to split wood. Then again I suppose you could attach a wedge to the top of an old single piston on some long stroke block crankshaft and split a piece of wood every time she hits TDC. Better run by belts or a clutch in case something goes wrong. I better quit thinking about this. :-/
That's the kind of stuff I was talking about. You are only limited by your imagination. :)
I found this link after reading about an early Ford 8N tractor V-8 conversion, the Funk Aircraft Company conversion from George's post re his Datil, NM building site. It's too cool not to have a spot in the Hot Rod Corner...
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/chevy-8N.jpg)
As well as this 350 Chevy conversion the builders website has a 351 Ford Windsor, a 318 Chrysler, a turbine, a 4 transmission special that in low-low-low-low travels 12 inches an hour. He's also restored ten of the Ford tractors. Interesting stuff
http://marvinbaumann.com/index.php
pretty cool stuff...
we had a V6 buick engine in a hough payloader once...Same kind of thing.. getting the lovejoy off the crank for the pto was the hardest thing to scrounge for free...We made the adaptor plate to bolt the motor to the bell housing....Pulled the continental 4 cylinder industrial engine.... What a difference in power.... it was amazing! kind of dangerous too... ::)
Any opinions on a 1984 Jeep Cherokee Chief with a 258 CID six for $800 -- about 62000 miles. Looking for a beater to take through the bushes without worrying about scratches and to pull our 4x4 Bush Hog to the backwoods when we get it.
QuoteAny opinions on a 1984 Jeep Cherokee Chief with a 258 CID six for $800 -- about 62000 miles. Looking for a beater to take through the bushes without worrying about scratches and to pull our 4x4 Bush Hog to the backwoods when we get it.
Woo-hoo!! Love Cherokees, or maybe your remembered.
http://nm4w.org/members/miller-d/miller-d%2ehtm
62,000 or 162K, 262K.... Have a friend who just retired his very tired '89 with over 280K on the original engine and auto tranny. :)
If that's an '84 it must have undergone a transplant. '84's from the factory had either a, AMC inline 4 or a GM V6. Is this six fuel injected? The 258 and the newer 4.0 look and are very much alike with the differences internal, bore, stoke, crank, etc. All the engines are extremely reliable with the 4 and small V6 just being somewhat down on highway horsepower.
What tranny does it have?
Problem areas:
The Cherokee up to '92 had a "closed loop" cooling system and radiators marginally sized for hot climates. They work but are a PITA to service/refill without getting vapor locks. Can be retrofitted to the newer open-loop. Surge tank and no radiator cap=Closed loop.
Another weak point: front hubs: Cherokee's will need front wheel bearing replacement every 100,000 miles or so with heavy use. Expect it, and buy them ahead of time. Wheel bearings up front are very easy to replace, which lessens the issue. About $100 bucks a side.
And '92 & up models have there own special weak point: Crank angle sensors. Every 100,000 miles or more often, these fail. Replacements run 75+ dollars, and can be replaced in the driveway. Symptoms: No spark/fuel when cranking. Buy now, carry in the truck to replace when needed.
And it is still made in China http://www.jeep.com.cn/jeep2500/home.html
Thanks a million, Don. I was finding the same thing on the engine although it looked like an option in other models. Funny -- it has the engine sticker for that engine on the radiator mount frame.
Not a beauty but looks like it may be a good deal -- 4x4 for $800 -- we'll see. :)
Hmm? Maybe it was a special California model?
Jeep has a history of doing strange undocumented things as well. Especially in the older CJ models. but they've always had a knack for the unexpected. :-/
OK - called and gave the guy a verbal that I would take it, as he was going to be gone tonight. He went out and took the sign off of it so I think it is almost in the bag. We are supposed to get together tomorrow some time. I already have a lot going on tomorrow but will try to make time for that. :)
I don't have any other info on the specs yet but will update you here when I get it.
In the meantime, I just got word that I am supposed to be getting my Bush Hog in the next day or two minus a couple accessories that are on the way. I'm trading some work on the Bigger house project for it.
It would be this little goodie here --
(http://www.bushhog.com/utv-images/show-huntercamo.jpg)
http://www.bushhog.com/countrylife-toc.html
See Trail Hand under - Trail Series Utility Vehicles
The Jeep is a California model with a catalytic converter --(and combination fire starter?) Should be great for our dry grass areas.
;D
QuoteI don't have any other info on the specs yet but will update you here when I get it.
Re: Bush Hog... I'm interested! Keep us all posted on it, please. :)
Re the Cherokee, if you want to sound like you know what you're talking about, refer to it as an XJ. Jeep still uses these letter names "in-house" but I don't think you will ever see them in a Jeep ad. But all the sites/stores that sell goodies for Jeeps refer to them by the letters.... CJ, XJ, WY, YJ, TJ, ZJ, etc. They don't follow any alphabetical progression. :-/
Thanks Don -- I was wondering about the classifications.
Will keep you up on the goodies.
Did the deed today - got the Jeep.
I found out why we were having a problem matching the engine to the year -- The boys dad put the wrong year on the sign --It's a 1981 rather than a 1984, but really that's neither here nor there. Runs good and that old, things will need attention anyway.
All phases of 4 wheel drive work fine. Title was clear. Tires around 75%. New battery. New brakes done by a shop. Trans fluid could use a change - maybe band adjustment? All power windows seem to work OK - power seat works. In general seems to be a decent 4x4 beater.
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/P1000454.jpg)
Peeling off the kids stickers today and checking things out.
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/P1000455.jpg)
Ah-hah!! That explains a lot. An original Cherokee! A Wagoneer actually, in a Cherokee sub-model. . An SJ. And a Chief, no less! A Cherokee with a frame. .... That would be either a GM TH400 or a Chrysler 727 auto tranny. Both pretty good boxes.
Jeep Trivia.... the Wagoneer/Cherokee SJ was the next to last vehicle sold in the USA with a carburetor. Isuzu was the last.
A 727 - I need to check that out -- I used to OH them when I was a mechanic at Dodge - not a lot but a few.
So - I think I got $800 worth.
More playing with it tomorrow.
It has a checking carburetor light - I need to check out what that is - just flashes once in a while. Fuel gauge and oil gauge don't work. Alternator has been changed to a GM internal regulator with a single wire -- easy. :)
You've also got Dana 44 axles F&R, so forget the caveat I mentioned about front bearings. :) Ditto the cooling system thing.
The only thing the same about that Cherokee of yours and the '84 up model is the name plate.
She did run cool all the way home in the mountains - BTW looks to have a new or recon radiator also. Slight bit of burned wiring near the alternator but appears to have been fixed.
I noticed leaf springs front and back too. I can raise it a bit easily. What do you think. :-?
Well, undoubtedly those leafs have sagged some since the factory bolted 'em in place. But unless there's an obvious sag to one corner and unless there's a tire rub problem or something I'd pretty much leave well enough alone. Unless you want a new hobby upgrading it. :)
In that case though I'd highly recommend Alcan Spring in Grand Junction, CO as the best leaf spring maker around http://www.alcanspring.com/ You call 'em up, tell what you have, how much weight you carry, how much lift you want and they make springs that are superior. :) :)
That's cool..
We have major rocks and ruts around here -Tanya's type of rocks -- big ol boulders etc. I'm concerned about dragging bottom. I would like to get it up a couple inches. Seems it would be better.
It also seems something needs to be done with the catalytic converter. I'm sure it will start a forest fire or grass fire.
If you're wanting a couple extra inches you should go for new springs. You could use longer shackles for small height gains (less than an inch... usually half inch max... a 1 inch longer shackle gives approx a 1/2 inch lift.) Longer shackles unless well made, heavier, give too much sideways flex. UNLESS they are Confer shackles or made like them. They use heavier side plates (3/8" steel) , plus they have a tube welded in to "box" them.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/Shackle1.jpg)
You could also use a body lift kit; they lift the body on the frame so don't help at all for ground clearance, just give a bigger tire more space.
Thanks for the info, Don. What about blocks between the spring and the axle. I haven't looked at that area yet. :-?
IF you where COOL you'd be thinkin of lowering it ;D
Thanks a lot, PEG. Homey don't do dat. :-/
I have actually refused money when people used to come into my shop wanting me to heat their springs and lower their vehicle.
QuoteThanks a lot, PEG. Homey don't do dat. :-/
I have actually refused money when people used to come into my shop wanting me to heat their springs and lower their vehicle.
Ah come on you'd look so BOSS with that baby lowered and some ding balls hangin from the mirror! ;D They might even let you join the legion!
I don't like blocks, but they are used. :-/ IF you do go that route be certain to chamfer the edge that rests against the spring. A hard edge there can increase the likelihood of breaking a leaf.
Lowering reminded me of this "rate your jeep" site. Just for fun
http://www.dirtroadmagazine.com/jeeprate.htm
Plenty of those lowriders here already --- I wanted to be different. :)
I'm kind of afraid of the blocks wanting to rotate - overstress the u-bolts etc. Maybe little ones.
That's one of the reasons I don't like 'em. :)
World's Fastest Lawnmower
80.792 MPH at Bonneville
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/mower.jpg)
http://www.chrisdetrick.com/blog/2006/07/worlds-fastest-lawnmower.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BWmozLhuuXo
World's fastest working lawnmower here
http://www.countryplans.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1186947355/0#0
Before we go spend all of Glenn's money on wheels, tires and lifts let's take a step back. Glenn, what's the tire size on the Chief right now? Factory size was probably 215 or 225 /75SR15 (diameter approx 28 to 28.5 inches). It should be possible to use up to a 30 inch diameter tire without running into any clearance problems.
You probably would not want to go to any taller a tire because of several factors. There's the fender clearance thing of course. But there's also the axle gear ratio problem, sometimes not thought of until after the tires are on. IMO, an increase of a couple inches is probably okay in most caes, especially when you have an automatic. But an increase of more than that will be an unhappy combination unless the gears are changed. And I'm pretty sure you don't want to go there. I base this on experience over the years with a number of different built-up 4x4's. For example, my present Cherokee came with 3:55 gears, 28.5" dia. tires. I installed the 32" GoodYear MT/R's and the 3.5"lift before getting around to doing the gears. It sucked!!. Power was down, the AT downshifted at the slightest hint of a grade increase, the fuel economy was worse. I changed to 4:56 gears and all was happy again. BTW, that change brought the overall tire/gear ratio back to where it is just a little lower geared than stock. 4:11 gears would have had it just a little overgeared from stock. It's a very happy combination.
I wouldn't touch the old 9 x 16 military tires, 8 ply IIRC. They are way too stiff in the side walls. If you have rocks you want to have flexy sidewalls... should be airing down from highway pressures as well. That does have the disadvantage of reducing ground clearance a little, but it increases traction and comfort. It also necessitates having a source of compressed air to air up for highway travel again. (FYI, my Cherokee runs 25 PSI in the 32x11.5x15's for everyday use. I drop them to 15 PSI for normal 4-wheeling and less for more severe. Drop them to 10-11 for soft sand. Have an onboard air comp.)
If those tires on the Chief still have plenty of tread as you mentioned, and they're within the useful carcass life (as discussed someplace else) you probably don't want to replace them and immediately double (or better) your investment in the Chief. Do you?
It would be nice to increase the tire size. Increasing overall tire height is the only way to increase clearance between the axles and the ground. But 25 years of use will usually have resulted in the loss of spring arch, and the lowering of the chassis/body. Regaining that, plus a little, will more than likely serve your needs.
You could make your own set of HD extended shackles like the Con-fers; you have the welding skills, just need the time. You could gain 1/2 to 1 inch there without much potential problem.
You could add small blocks for another 1/2 to 1 inch.
My experience with adding leaves to old spring packs has been unsatisfactory. Usually ends up being stiffer and harder riding... the stiffness reduces suspension flexibility; not desirable.
I've gone the re-arching the springs route as well and found that didn't work to my satisfaction either. Although I was happier with re-arched springs than I was with extra leaves.
IMO.
One more opinion, tall and narrow tires, say 33 x 9.5, have a special place/use. Mud and/or snow. They dig down to where you hope the traction is. For rock you want wider and softer. Mud also needs horsepower to be able to spin fast enough to throw the tread clear. You probably have more rock than mud or snow. ?? I had a summer and a winter set of wheels and tires for the Scout I had back home. 33x12.5x15 summer and 33x9.5x15 winter. Both in the Mud/Snow pattern. M/S grip rocks real good too.
But then that's just my opinion.
Thanks for the thoughts, guys. I will want to wear these tires out before changing - or at least stick rocks through the sidewalls like I have been doing on my truck for the last week -- two pretty new tires with rocks through the sidewalls at about $130 each. One working - one playing. :(
That's part of the reason for the Jeep -- rough roads for a 12000 lb truck --eats tires. Also we have guys wandering the back woods around here that will make all of your tools etc disappear if you are off hiking etc.
I think I will look into the low block and possibly tough shackles for a start. Easy for me to do. :)
Air conditioner fix is a priority.
Yeah- I thought it was add on - but it says Jeep right on it so I guess it is factory. A/C is pretty much a necessity around here.
Nobody likes a sweaty old fat man. :'( :)
Do you have a Discount Tire Store near you? IMO, the best tires are those bought at Discount Tire along with their free replacement certificate. My 32 inch Goodyears were about $160 each plus the replacement certificate $23. When, not IF, but WHEN I cut a sidewall they replace the tire with a brand new one. All you have to pay for is a new certificate for the new tire. $23 or whatever it might be. N questions asked as to what you were doing. Simple. No limit to how many tires replaced, as long as you've bought one cert for each tire. My original set of 5 has had four replacements over the past three years. Good deal!
A/C. It's the #1 accessory for a 4x4 if you ask me. I ate dust, sweated buckets for too long to want to go anywhere without it. :)
Peter, if you don't want A/C in your Scout another great use for the compressor is for pumping air for tires. Easy conversion with the old piston type compressors.
The rotary types can also be used, but you need an oiler/de-oiler etup for the comp and to keep the oil out of the air. If you can find room under the hood for both A/C and air compressor you've got the best. :)
Just one more thing to carry but I have the Ryobi 18v tool set with all the extra's and they make a pretty good compressor for it too.
I should have pointed out that as well as the tire replacement certificate, if a tire is repairable (tread puncture) the repair is free. Balancing and installation is always free when you buy and every 5K miles they'll rotate and re balance for free.
There used to be a couple Discount Tires in Fresno, but up here we have only one fairly good small tire dealer and a few that are not as good. Tire deals are all 40 to 80 miles away. I'm sure I will eat some. Many of the mountains around here produce mean pointy Greenstone rocks.
Well --- ordered another tire for the big truck and cleaned the oxidation off the Jeep today. I used an old trick my brother used to use. Just clean it all with the old original formula Go--Jo hand cleaner - the kind without pumice. Makes it shine like new. I wanted something that would not leave wax as I want to touch up some of the decals with black paint.
Go-Jo! I never would have thought of using it for that! Stuff's been around longer than dirt... just about. 1946 actually, year I was born; 2 great things in one year. ;D ;D
Developed to get the hands of workers in rubber plants clean.
Yeah-- really removes oxidation easily - tar etc too. :) It actually seems to rejuvenate the paint a bit - makes it look fresh and new rather than dried out and ugly. :-?
Almost drove it to the river today but couldn't brave the heat, and need to get some wire diagrams to check out the intermittent back window.
It also has an oil leak - maybe valve over. Tightened it a bit today but that didn't do it. May have to take it off and check it as they replaced it recently. Could be somewhere else too.
It is now charged up and starting -running pretty good -- seems smooth on all six.
Found wiring diaagrams and manuals courtesy another forum and Autozone.
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairLanding.htm
Good resource!
That woke up some dormant brain cells... :)
First thing: One upgrade you might be interested in is the disributor. The GM HEI distributor from a '78-'84 250 cu inch six is a near drop in for the AMC 258 cu.inch engine. This gives you a reliable high voltage electronic all-in-one distributor that you can buy parts for at just about any place that sells auto parts. Since it's all-in-one it's a simple matter to carry one as a complete spare, rather than all the individual parts.
You need to replace or modify the distributor shaft drive gear. That's it! You can either remove the gear from the stock 258 distributor and grind it down to match the length of the GM gear. That usually works. Or you can buy AMC part number 3208615, the gear for an '83 and later AMC V-8. Chrysler sells the gear for a mint. Four Wheel Drive Hardware http://www.4wd.com/subcategories.aspx?cid=10&jeep-sid=13&pg=3 (scroll down a ways or if it doesn't come up, search the AMC part number) also sells the gear for a better price.
Links to websites about this swap are:
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/electrical/hei02/
http://www.geocities.com/jeeperaz/hei.htm
... and a link with a list of all the years/models of Chevy & GMC donor vehicles
http://www.mesa4x4.com/tech_articles/258_hei/258_hei.html
Second thing: I've bought a couple of these distributors and other stuff, like a hard to find AMC 401 V-8 flywheel and pulley set, a few years back from Parts Mike in Auburn, CA. Don't recall the price but it came with the proper gear installed. He also sells a plug wire set that fits well. Saves hunting around. http://www.partsmike.com/ (530)885-0673
PartsMike also has diagrams for smog hookups and wiring I believe.
Third thing: He also hosts/moderates a 4X4 forum, a good all 'round 4X4 info source for any make 4X4. http://www.partsmike.com/forum/index.php
Now those are some valuable resources. :o
Thanks, Don. :)
I also had the GM distributor advance re-curved on one engine by an ignition shop, but that was only because the engine also had a load of other mods... hi-comp pistons, torquey cam, header, electronic fuel injection... :) . The stockers usually run pretty good with stock Jeep initial advance and the advance curve built in to the GM distributor.
It's also possible to build some cool real torquey 4.6 to 4.9 stroker engines based on a combination of 4.0 (newer) and 258 (older) engines along with customer machine work. I'd love one. Have a friend in the 4x club with one.
I also have some tricks for the Cherokee XJ automatic tranny. The AW-4. In the Cherokee XJ the gear selector is marked P - R - N - D - 3 - 2/1 There is no way to control whether or not the tranny computer will use 2nd or 1st. It judges by throttle position and speed over the ground. Very annoying when you are wanting to crawl or keep it in 2nd or 1st specifically for grade retard. There is a way to make it do what you want. I'll expand on this if anyone wants me to. It would probably void any warranty, but it's also reversible.
Various Jeep and 4X4 manual in PDF form
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/
Don
GM HEI is easily one of GM's best accomplishments...
I even use the Gm modules out of the HEI on my mopars to make them electronic ignition
Just mount the module on the inner fender by the distributor and you are good to go... run 2 wires and you are about set...
Thanks for the link Don- lots of good info there.
Good tip on the HEI, Peter. It looks like it may be able to be used in the same manner for the wifes electro-shock therapy. :-/
I tried curing some of her aches and pains with a magneto but she's wise to that now. :o Possibly I could slip the HEI in a box over on her.
Other info on the HEI Jeep swap. http://www.geocities.com/jeeperaz/hei.htm
Bush Hog is here. Not too much evidence to show that it was hit by a out of control 18 wheeler.
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/P1000501.jpg)
Mike fixed up nearly everything on it. Biggest thing left is the hood crack, and when I stop playing with it I may get that fixed. :)
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/P1000502-1.jpg)
More accessories on the way -- top - snow plow - power dumper for the bed - maybe even the gun rack -- already has beer holders. :)
Glenn
GM had easily the best electronics...I mean every piece of machinery I see pretty much as a 2 wire Gm altenator... tractors loaders forklifts etc....
the HEI really is a super swap...Works great and is easy to do...
I remember years ago when I was a kid I switched my corvair to electronic ignition... Bought a kit out of a magazine and bolted a petronix into the stock distributor...
That worked like a charm as well... I bought an extra one for the glove box for long trips from the house too :)
All these old vehicles...Amazing how much difference better exhaust, modern tires and electronic ignition makes in the way that they run and drive.
I remember you telling me about messing with your turbo dodge pick up...So I know you are a believer in the free power and fuel economy that is just sitting in the exhaust system waiting to be unleashed.
The Jeep has already been converted to the single wire GM alternator.
Works great.
All of the sudden I have so much new junk around here ganged up on me at once I don't know which way to go first.
..but many times opportunity only knocks once so I have to open the door for it to take advantage of it.
I got the smog done on the jeep. It has a few issues - one low cylinder and what seems to be a famous leaking valve cover. Seems the 258 is notorious for that.
I decided the A/C would be working last night so I kept at it until it was. Heavy current draw was blowing fuses after I found the wire they had pulled loose because of that. Checked the squirrel cage - it wasn't turning. Grabbed it with a pair of long nose pliers and shook the insulation (mouse nest?) loose and blew it out.
Got out the trusty Generic Duracool (TM) --(propane) cylinder and recharged it. No pump down - change or anything -- just purge the manifold lines and fill it. Works great.
How -- that underfloor light rumble made me crawl under and check the drive shaft - yup - front u-joint is out. A quick evaluation confirmed I might make it to the parts house and back. Got it and am about ready to crawl under and do it.
Glenn, do you have a metal or a plastic valve cover? Doesn't matter much which really; they're both problematic. It may take a tube of RTV of make it oil tight... for a while. :-/
There are cast aluminum aftermarket covers available. I had one on my old '79 CJ5 had one made by Clifford Performance. http://www.cliffordperformance.net/ They've been around since the 60's making hot rod stuff for a wide variety of inline 6's. AMC, Chev, Ford, Mopar, Hudson. Hudson?? :o No Hudson stuff any more, but they were very fast in the early 50's. Before my time; I'm not that old.
I had a catalog full of their stuff on the CJ5... :) cover, cam, fuel injection, etc. I had a look and the Clifford cover is too pricey these days. There are others though if it comes down to that.
I can guess how happy you are to get the A/C working. :) :)
I went and dug out some CJ5 pictures from '99-2000... would still like to have it in some ways...
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/CJ5/0142.jpg)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/CJ5/0460.jpg)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/CJ5/0429.jpg)
Peter! Clifford makes some stuff for Mopar slant sixes!!
I have a replacement plastic one from a wrecking yoard to replace the original failed plastic one but the previous owner put it on and did a very poor job of it. I found a srew bottomed out in the hole in one place -- may have to pull it off and chek it out then redo the whole thing. I hate it when people with no mechanical ability try to do stuff. You know the type - the ones that don't get it and never will. I wondered when I saw 1/4 inch of gasket sticking out the side in various places.
... and nice jeep, Don -- no visible rock rashes. :)
Quote... and nice jeep, Don -- no visible rock rashes. :)
original factory paint. Both front fenders had "events" and tweaks tho'. :( That's why many will have the front fenders cut away some
Mine also has been introduced to the rock culture by the previous owner.
I have been considering straightening them a bit but this old jeep is made of some pretty serious heavy metal.
Yeah, those were pretty healthy pieces of steel. You could always buy a gallon of Bondo... ;D ;D or saw off the offending pieces...
Here's what a sawzall and a good metal cutting blade or two can do. This is a 2000 Cherokee XJ that one of our club members bought as salvage. It was brand spanking new when it suffered an accident while being unloaded from the auto transport truc at the destination dealer. It fell onto it's side.
It was bought as a doner vehicle, engine, trans, seats, A/C and other odds and ends for a Jeep CJ. Meantime he had some fun with a sawzall, slapped some bigger tires on it, turned the A/C up high and we went 4-wheeling one day in June/2000
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/CJ5/sawzallxjspecial.jpg)
That's a shame but looks like it'll git er done. ;D
Special for you, Glenn.
Jay Leno's garage has just posted a video on a 1901 Fairbanks Morse engine he got from somewhere in one of the CA deserts.
(screen shot)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/fairbanksmorse1901copy.jpg)
http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/video/index.shtml?vidID=147878
If anyone out there loves cars, but haven't had a look at his website, you need to have look see. Lots of old stuff, pictures and videos.
OOOOH! This is so nice! Finally! A true off-road muffler. 14 Ga. diamond plate.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/flowmasteroff-road.jpg)
Pretty much the only part under my Cherokee that's not armor plated is my muffler. Whenever I finally do bash it in this is what I'll go with. Maybe before if someday I feel I have the extra cash and nothing else to spend it on. Fat chance of that!
Nice hit and miss engine. I need to haul my old cast iron up the hill. I have several of them - smaller than that one mostly.
That muffler should hold up well. I got tired of working on my jeep last night and after getting it to where I thought it may get me back I took off to prospect. I found the Morning Star Spring -near the Morning star Mine, used 4 low to get turned around and got back all in the same night. :)
Anytime you get back under your own power is a good day/night. Never been towed out myself, but I have been the tower. (knock on wood!) Nah! I'm not superstitious, just cautious. :)
Another cool little thing; applicable to any vehicle not jusy 4x4.
I have armored the engine oil pan, transmission, transfer case with 3/16 inch steel. (It may be overkill, but I can park my Jeep on it and not worry.) :) It's in removable sections. Changing oil would be a hassle except for this cool thing.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/valve2.jpg)
I cut a hole just big enough for my hand to go through. When changing oil I place a section of vinyl tubing on the fitting, insert the end into the jug from the last oil change, turn the valve open and there ya' go, no fuss, no muss.!
I have one on every vehicle, plus my generators. I was worried about it breaking off on the lower clearance Honda but fashioned a small steel plate to protect it from direct impact.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/10reg_vs_nip320.jpg)
I liked the fact that I could cruise right under the trees and limbs to a place I would never have considered taking my truck into even if I was mean to it. :-?
I could probably use one of those valves after I quit doing the driving oil change. Pour it in the top - it drips off the bottom. :-/
New gasket is supposed to be in today though.
I haven't followed this thread so if these photos don't fit just axe the post Glenn.
Saw this rig today, GMC I think, looks like a 50's truck but I don't know squat about make ,year, model. Not a gearhead but you guys might like the truck , it was purty :)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Aug30th2.jpg)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Aug30th3.jpg)
Enjoy , or not :)
Way cool old GMC, Paul. That's BIG and OLD as in DIFFERENT from being a re-badged Chevy.
I love the old COE (cab over engine) Jimmys, unless the engine needs to be replaced. Helped with one of those once. Gotta first tear all the front sheet metal off. Not much better on some of today's products I'm afraid.
Does anyone recall an old TV show starring 2 truckers and their COE GMC tractor trailer rig. Powered by an early GMC, now Detroit Diesel 2 cycle??
Love the sound of the blowers winding up, that blower gave us the first blown drag cars and gave rise to all the late model specialty Rootes blowers on Funny Cars and AA Fuel Dragsters.
I'm blathering again.
Did ya' notice the old tyme tractor mural on the sleeper box??
Like to see that too! :)
You must have a shoulder holster for that camera, Paul. :-? And a mighty fast trigger finger to boot.
That is a nice rig -- GMC Good Mexican Car we call them down here. :)
Like I drive something that good. My dad had a GMC logging truck with a 4 banger Detroit in it in about 56 or so. He hauled logs on it.
We used to hate those screamin Jimmy's in the diesel shop. We all liked to work on Cummins but there was only one guy who would work on most of the Jimmys.
Claude. He was so wild with a hammer that all of his fingers were hammered out into spatulas, as my old buddy used to say. He warned me to look out extra carefully when working with Cloud (secret nickname). A guy could easily be impaled with a 6 foot pointed steel pry bar if he wasn't careful around Cloud. I saw it embed itself about an inch into the concrete once when it slipped from the grip of his mangled appendages. :)
Never worked on a diesel of any kind except to change the oil/filters, that's a lot of oil if you're opening the old metal topped cardboard cans. . But I still love the whistle of those blowers.
QuoteI haven't followed this thread so if these photos don't fit just axe the post Glenn.
If it's got wheels it fits, PEG.
On another note --- put all new Platinum plugs and wires in the Jeep today. I felt a surging that was getting worse and could likely only have been one or the other. More than just the weak cylinder. It is really running smooth and no more stumbling -surging on the hills. The old plugs were all pretty clean - actually looked like a decent burn on all. Anyway - its cured for now - don't know how long it will last.
Decal stripes are now painted on the left side and back -- nice redneck spray can job. Thinking about the letters and getting them back on there. For something meant to go through the brush without worry it doesn't have to be too good a redneck job. ;D
Air conditioner works super now -- as long as you wiggle the switch properly. :o
Quote
Did ya' notice the old tyme tractor mural on the sleeper box??
Like to see that too! :)
You must have a shoulder holster for that camera, Paul. :-? And a mighty fast trigger finger to boot.
I bet they haul a old (new looking) tractor to shows on it normally, there's no show I know of on the Island , well yes come to think of it the Island county fair is going on this week I think, maybe thy're down there showing the tractor :-/ Could be !
It's never to far away , I almost missed that photo op , they where stopped at the light so I just got the camera on in time :o See I'm always thinkin of you guys ;)
I'm pretty sure it said GMC on the grill but he got by before the camera was ready ;D
I'm glad ya all liked it!
QuoteQuote
On another note --- put all new Platinum plugs and wires in the Jeep today. Air conditioner works super now -- as long as you wiggle the switch properly. :o
I did see a killer restored Willy's today at lunch at the mini mart , paint orange , flames in the paint job , some crome stuff sticking outta the hood , nice shift levels , wheels, seats , etc , no photo , :( so I wasn't thinkin of ya all then ;D
She was cherry thought ;)
Well, before I got it mine had flames coming out from under the hood --minor wiring and leaking oil fire I think but it's slowly getting better.
Hey - a lot of those wires are unnecessary anyway. :)
Actually -- nearly everything works pretty good... most of the time. :) :-/ Well, -- what do you get for $800 anyway. :-? :)
QuoteI'm pretty sure it said GMC on the grill but he got by before the camera was ready ;D I'm glad ya all liked it!
I don't think there's much doubt that it's an early 50's GMC longnose, sometimes called a round nose.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/friedrich_richard_1951GMC620.jpg)
This is a 1951. Not quite as nice as the other. For my money the early 50's models with their rounded body parts look much cooler than the new, second style 55's +. Tho' at the time I did like the new style, they were so... well new and modern looking.
I'm a big believer in platinum plugs.
I also believe in and use synthetic oils in anything that doesn't leak or burn it.
The parts man said if fouling was a problem they would help.
Fouling didn't seem to be a problem but I figured for 6.00 I could use the extra help. :)
Valve cover should be the next major job and got a new serpentine belt too.
My Dads GMC was the snub nosed model. I think like this but red.
(http://www.theironalley.com/26-56%20GMC.JPG)
Whats odd is looking at 1955 Chevy's you get this ,
(http://www.antiquecar.com/images/8710204.jpg)
or
(http://www.rogueweb.com/truck/images/truck2.jpg)
1955 CHEVROLET PICKUP, VEHICLE ID: 152, CHEVROLET'S MANAGEMENT DUBBED THE 1955 TRUCKS THEIR 'TASK-FORCE' LINE. TASK-FORCE IS A NAVAL TERM. 'TASK' REFERS TO A SPECIFIC JOB OR SERIES OF JOBS THE TASK FORCE IS TO ACCOMPLISH AND 'FORCE' IS THE INHERENT POWER WITH WHICH THEY ACCOMPLISH THEIR TASKS. TASK-FORCE PICKUPS WERE ALL NEW. THEIR STYLING HALLMARKS INCLUDED THE TRUCK INDUSTRY'S FIRST WRAPAROUND WINDSHIELD. CHEVROLET ADVERTISING CALLED IT A 'SWEEP-SIGHT WINDSHIELD'. THIS IDEA WAS FIRST SHOWN THE YEAR BEFORE ON GM'S INNOVATIVE BUICK LESABRE CONCEPT MOTORAMA SHOW CAR. OTHER INTERESTING STYLING INNOVATIONS INCLUDED SHROUDED HEADLIGHTS IN VISORED FENDERS, A CLASSIC EGG CRATE GRILLE, RUNNING BOARDS CONCEALED BEHIND THE CAB DOORS AND AN OPTIONAL 'FULL VIEW REAR WINDOW' (WRAPAROUND). NEW FEATURES FOR DRIVER CONVENIENCE AND EASE OF OPERATION INCLUDED POWER STEERING, POWER BRAKES, OVERDRIVE FOR HALF-TON PICKUPS, KEY-TURN STARTS, TUBELESS TIRES, A 12-VOLT ELECTRICAL SYSTEM AND A FOUR SPEED AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ON SERIES 3000 PICKUPS.
The first photo they call 1st series and the second they called task force series , from what I gather. Year I was born , so I always sort wanta think I 'd like a 55 Chevy. BTW I was a late / 2nd series task force type , December don't ya know ;)
Strange to change the look so much in one model year , must have been different marketing / thinking back then.
How do the coolant hoses look? I replace all mine every 4 years just on the principle that I'd rather not have one fail in the middle of nowhere. Ditto, the belt. And for that matter, how do the PS hoses look (hi pressure mainly?)
I also have dual batteries (isolated via a HD relay), carry a spare crankshaft position sensor (something you don't have to worry about), a computer module, oil/filter/other lubes, a big tire repair kit (the sticky stringy kind... I once used 12 of them in a sidewall perforation. That and loads of glue. You're not supposed to do that, but it worked till we got off the trail and bought a used tire to get home on. I now also have a spare tube. Tube! What's that you say? And a couple metal boxes full of nuts, bolts, washers, screws and other assorted crap. RTV. Tape. Mechanics (baling) wire. Shovel, couple of jacks. And the alternator/welder in case all else fails.
The first series was simply a carry over of the early fifties. I guess if they were thinking like they do today the new body style introduced sometime in '55 would have been called a '56, or even a '57, it was so far in the future as far as looks. :-/
The new style were fancied up a lot compared to the old style / first series.
I recall the old wrap around windshields were also known as the knee busters. :o Not too bad on those mid 50's trucks but when they became more wrap around, '59 or so, they could be awkward.
Random internet pix, Peter. I don't remember if I have one in my junk pile or not. :-/
Just funnin you Peter. I really don't have one.
I have a few very old 37 to 40 something junkers -- 76 Union truck with the big steel block letters on the tank.
QuoteBush Hog is here. Not too much evidence to show that it was hit by a out of control 18 wheeler.
Glenn, I've been remiss in asking just what happened. Interesting story?
Met a guy here in NM with one of these. Said he loved it; better than any four wheeler ATV he ever had. Plus it had a seat for his Golden Lab. Dump box too.
Sorry I missed this one, Don. It showed as read but I didn't. :-/
Mike displays a couple of these in front of his shop along a state highway. A truck driver for a major supermarket chain went to sleep and ran off the road taking out about 6 of his employee vehicles and this Bush Hog and ending up in the yard next door narrowly missing a power pole also.
Since it could no longer be sold as new but was still in pretty decent shape I made a deal with him on his house project. He gets a bunch of work and I get a Bush Hog. :)
On other news, the transmission - a 727 went out - specifically - the torque converter trashed itself. Flew into a million little metal pieces -- since it was a slow partial failure it was pretty hard to diagnose, however after checking a few things and it locking into reverse and killing the engine we decided it had to be the TC. We were right.
The local mountain transmission guy is a real pro fortuneately, so since we pulled it out he rebuilt it for $808 including a rebuilt torque converter. Luckily this one is a cheap one to rebuild. We should have it going some time this week.
I think the new Platinum plugs and wires got it running so much better that the trans couldn't stand the strain-- engine will still need more work later but it's coming along.
I knew that eventually you'd get around to this. :)
I sometimes have the opposite happen; have something marked to be notified of replies, get an email, and find nothing new. :-/ Go figure.
Too bad about the 727. They are pretty tough but anything can happen. I remember way back it was the tranny of choice when the slingshot dragster guys first tried using an A/T gearbox with a clutch in place of the torque converter. They used a P/S pump to pump the oil around. A friend had one set up with pushbuttons from a '57 Plymouth Fury.
I believe I have an axle bearing going out on the Cherokee front. Got noisier and noisier coming home tonight. Non-replaceable bearing; it comes with the axle half shaft. :'( That and I need new tires soon.
It was slightly burned when I got it - Aparrently a bit low too but I don't think that tore up the converter.
Same trans upgraded a bit behind the Cummins diesel. When I worked for Dodge they published a booklet telling you how to soup up the 727 - solid shift etc. The SunCoast or other valve bodies take care of that quite well though. It is one of the best automatics I think.
I changed the front u-joint on the back drive shaft. before the trans went out too- but that was cheap.
I could have gotten a used one pretty easy but for the price I figured it was money well spent to know I wouldn't have to worry about that part of it any more. Output shaft would have likely been wrong too. Seems it changed from the inside?
I have overhauled a few myself in the old days but didn't really want to mess with it for the time it would take me when there was a good trans mechanic around.
Peter, I do like some of the old Studes. :) :)
Yours like this one? :-/ Sorta. This one's been modified a little. :)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/stud5001a.jpg)
I must admit tho' that I like the '53-'54's styling better
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/stude5301.jpg)
Outside of a Studebaker lovers meet about the only place you see them is at Bonneville.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/Studebaker.jpg)
I like Studes - Sassy doesn't.
I like the one with the round grill.
(http://info.detnews.com/dn/joyrides/2003/studebakermuseum/50studebaker.jpg)
http://info.detnews.com/joyrides/story/index.cfm?id=388
We used to have a 37 Chevy coupe - suicide doors if I remember right. My cousin got it -then who knows. Wish I had it. It was original and very nice.
QuoteI need you western dudes to be finding these things for me!
Problem is a lot of the oldies here are in hidden places and some of the current owners seem to think they're made of gold, not steel.
There's also the problem of vandalism, target shooting and so on that reduce many I have seen to little more than nostalgic heaps of metal.
Then to add insult to injury things like encroaching civilization, housing slowly expand and make the land where the carcasses have been collected more valuable for subdivisions. We had a junk yard collection go to the car crusher here about a year or so ago. It was a small yard and was crammed full of mostly 40's and 50's trucks, but there were a few older ones too. There were a couple late 30's Reo Speedwagons I was crazy about, but in no position to do anything about. A friend got a real deal on a Jeep FC. (picture is Not his)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/OurayColoradoFC-170.jpg)
QuoteI like Studes - Sassy doesn't.
The Raymond Loewy / Virgil Exner designs were mostly truly cool. Exner worked for Loewy for a while and Loewy got most of the credit for Exners work. Exner also did the Forward Look styling for CVhrysler 50's to 60's..
The '50 Studebaker lineup was the best selling in Studebaker's entire history.
Took me a while to find this picture. A hot rodded street/show Jeep is rather rare. FC-150
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/060421.jpg)
Chevy V8
Peter, have you ever heard of Skinned Knuckles magazine. For restorers.
http://skinnedknuckles.net/pages/index.htm
Peter, here ya' go. '36 Pontiac coupe. I'd say nearly anything in the 36-37 years is so cool and sorta sexy looking...
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/36pontiac.jpg)
... and one for Glenn, scale Kenworth W900 series (70's?)...
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/kenworthhalfscalew900.jpg)
This has got to be one of the most radical custom VW
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/VWradical.jpg)
... the only rear shot of the VW...
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/VW055.jpg)
Cool stuff Don. Looks like my KW had a baby. :)
Yeah I like that one! Years ago I read an article in some magazine about an engineer who retired from life long work at Kenworth. He was so well liked a bunch of the fabrication workforce volunteered their time to build a scale KW with a pickup bed, about the size of a 70's Chevy pickup truck. The company paid for the materials. It had a 4-53 Detroit in it. From time to time I think of it and wonder where it ended up. I don't think this is it tho; it didn't have a sleeper.
But you gotta give the guy points for the idea/work. Like, anybody can chop a '49 Merc.
I love the idea of building a "retro"-rod. Flathead Merc, Edelbrock, Weiand, Offy, heads and manifold. Way cool! Lincoln-Zephr tranny. How about a Halibrand quick-changer rear end? And gen-u-ine Halibrand mags! Wouldn't Ardun heads be so cool! Tho' they were a b**ch to really make work and last.
I would love to have late "T" or maybe "A" roadster body with an all-out flathead. No fenders. Cool!
I had a '54 Canadian Meteor coupe way back ('64ish). 255 (Merc) flathead, triple Stromberg 97's, Edelbrock heads and manifold, Isky cam, and Vertex mag. Torched front coils for the low in the front look (and lousy ride), exhaust cut-outs for noise. Dark green. Loved that car! Had it for a few years. Did a swap to a 327 Chevy (Carter 4 bbl. and Duntov cam) before I eventually sold it. Whoo-Hoo! .
Then I somehow discovered the Volvo P122/123. Total opposites. Go figure. :) Went from straight line to turns! FCun of a different kind.
I had a 40 Lincoln Zephyr until a couple years ago -- way too much of a basket case -- I wasn't doing anything with it so let a guy trade me out of it. Still got a bad block or two around - 12 cyl beer can pistons.
QuoteI am a 9 inch ford guy myself... user friendly affordable easy to find...
One of the best things about the 9 inch Ford is the removable third member. I had a 9 inch in the Volvo with two different carriers with different ratios for different tracks. The low pinion was nice for keeping the driveline low in the car.
You can also get special high pinion versions that are very nice for lifted off road vehicles. Improves the u-joint angles.
Re the flathead Ford V8... there is a guy who is selling a modernized version of the cast aluminum Duntov brothers creation. http://www.ardun.com/index.html Don't ask how much!!
OK, I'll tell. $13950 :o :o :o
and... speaking of geniuses, Peter and Don.... :-?
Combining my finely tuned lifelong mechanical skills with my CountryPlans building skills and tools, I fabricated a transmission jack adapter that perfectly put the Jeep transmission and transfer case right up into place -- no bruised knuckles or smashed torsos.
:)
OK - so I was too tight (read poor) to buy both a good Harbor Freight floor jack and transmission jack. :(
Besides -- this worked just fine. ;D
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/P1000542.jpg)
Quote....I want a 37 ford coupe....
Peter, 3W or 5W? Chopped or not?
Quoteand... speaking of geniuses, Peter and Don.... :-?
Glenn, what's that mixed in there with the wood scraps? A diaper? ;D ;D
Nothing like a custom fitted tranny jack. I've never owned a proper tranny jack either. Of course some of the trannys I worked with, like the Volvo M41 (even with OD) can be man handled in and out without a jack.
This Jeep needs a diaper, Don - has it's own oil well -- but no Don -- it's a rag. The rags on the Jeep, Don. :) Actually it's plugging the hole. The filler tube hole in the transmission. :-/
Got her in and made the maiden voyage tonight. I have a leak to fix on the cooler line - cut a hose and tighten a clamp, adjust the throttle sensor linkage and put the speedo cable in properly -- missed the hole.
Sorry if there was any misunderstanding there, Peter. I was actually going for genius there. :-/
Really - I didn't care what it looked like - just that it was fast. balance was off and tore out the plywood in the front one so moved it back for the second attempt. Chop saw and nail gun was handy -so took about 20 minutes to get it right.
Quote5 window coupe...Not chopped.. I like the TCI front crossmember and the Bitchin firewall... other than that I would like the chasis to be stock...Except for the 9 inch rear
The TCI lets you set the front end just about as low as you care/dare. IFS rides much improved over a beam that's for sure. The disc brakes are a big plus as well.
I prefer a slight chop. I like the ones where they remove the B pillar. Looks cool to me with a slight chop and the pillar gone. I've always wondered if they did some real window magic or if it's a show only job. If so not too practical for a street rod.
Ya' also need A/C. One stop shop http://www.vintageair.com/
Their website havs a video of a '53 Stude the owner built for Bonneville. 219 MPH with the A/C on. :)
don
I have all kinds of aftermarket ac units...I save them out of cars I junk and here in the south so many cars from 35 years ago have aftermarket ac...
so whenever I do a hotrod I have all kinds of ac systems to pick from...
I have installed aftermarket ac in a corvair van... in a 48 chevy 5 window... and a dodge a-100 van
I love the simplicity of aftermarket ac.... it has to be easy if I can do it!
;)
I used to install A/C on Caterpillars in the field. Don't forget about the Propane (generic Duracool) for refrigerant.
Glenn
One of these days I am going to try the propane as refrigerant...I will pester at you when I do...I find it very interesting
i cannot imagine a bulldozer with air conditioning... I have this mental image of a 30 year old D-8 or something...not even an enclosed cab for crying out loud
Imagine it, Peter. :)
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/georgecat.jpg)
Quote"I would suggest moving back," Bush said as he climbed into the cab of a massive D-10 tractor during his visit to a Caterpillar factory today. "I'm about to crank this sucker up." Newsweek notes, "As the engine roared to life, White House staffers tried to steer the press corps to safety, but when the tractor lurched forward, they too were forced to scramble for safety. 'Get out of the way!' a news photographer yelled. 'I think he might run us over!' said another. ... Even the Secret Service got involved, as one agent began yelling at reporters to get clear of the tractor.
Watching the chaos below, Bush looked out the tractor's window and laughed, steering the massive machine into the spot where most of the press corps had been positioned."
The problem is that in reality, the big D-10 bulldozer is like our government and Bush is at the controls. The reporters scrambling are like the American People and the Iraqis as Bush plows us into chaos to the sound of his idiotic chuckles.
http://www.pissedonpolitics.com/2007/01/
Talk about terrorizing the citizens. I didn't write any of that --- I don't want to cause thread drift in the hotrod corner. I was simply illustrating an air conditioned Caterpillar when George climbed into the seat.:-/ ;D
I wouldn't doubt that GWB has some cool toys on his spread in Crawford.
he is not my presdent..I am not a citizen and I did not vote for him
I laughed my arse off though... consider the quote from Bush...
I suggest you move back... Don I think there is a subliminal message there...Maybe we should move back to Canada...The only way to be safe from Dubbya ;D
No matter how you look at it; if you like him or not, if you voted for him or didn't, if you hold citizenship or don't, legal or not, GWB is still the president of the country. Therefore if you live in the USA, he's your president, like it or not.
As for moving back. No sir. Not in my game plan.
no sir don he is not my president... When I can vote and I am a citizen he is my president...He is only the president of Americans.. of which I am not
Working here does not make you american...
Us troops are working in Iraq currently killing innocent civilians...Does that make them Iraqi's?
Of course not
Actually he was never elected - he was installed by the supreme court after vote counting was stopped the first time. Second time was computer fraud (vote tampering with hacked computers) to keep him in. No matter -choices were also unacceptable. We are a rudderless ship with the engine set at full speed ahead. The sea is only so large. It is inevitable that we will soon strike land.
Back to Peter and Don's Hot Rod Corner. I don't want to trash this thread with trashy politicians. :)
I got the transmission in the Jeep, the throttle linkage adjusted and it is moving. There is enough blowby that the fresh air hose from the valve cover to the air cleaner is spewing rather than sucking. I disconnected it and ran it down a hose. We'll play gross polluter for a while while it is still running fairly decent. At least I will get to prospect. :)
Maybe a longblock this winter. :-/
QuoteBack to Peter and Don's Hot Rod Corner. I don't want to trash this thread with trashy politicians. :)
Maybe a longblock this winter. :-/
Yeah, there's enough trashy politician stuff elsewhere. :) Hot rods and motorized stuff are sacrosanct, or should be.
Too bad about the blowby and what it means. :'( I guess you really needed another project. :-?
Yeah -- but I got it so cheap, I want to just go ahead and do things right and have a good little Jeep. Actually a pretty big jeep.
I think the long block would be an easy way to go. There is quite a bit of room around that 6 cyl. so it's not too bad a job to swap.
Glenn
I would just get a kit and re-ring it yourself...
Super easy to do... yes there will be some wear in the cylinders...but it should not be that bad unless something is wrong like a bad piston and the piston has scored the cylinder wall...
I bet you can buy a rebuild kit for $150...You can pull it, clean it and re-ring it all in one day with ease... dump in a new oil pump chain and gear replace the rods and mains...And you are good to go...
what does a long cost there?
As for the head I would do a compression test... compression tests 2 things.. the rings and the valves... Replacing the valve seats ($10) is so easy my wife can do it...It will prevent smoking or oil burning due to leaking oil coming down on the valves... Half the vehicles I get seem to need to have this done...I do a couple a month... very easy if you have air hose or a compression tester..
Best way to do them is before you tear the motor down... just use the compression tester... bump it over until it builds up compression and do not release!
Then pull valve cover... remove rockers...Valve spring for the cylinder you have the compression tester in...
The air from the compression tester is trapped in the cylinder and will keep the valve seated perfectly for you.. Replace the valve seat ( I prefer the hat type better protection)...replace the valve spring lock it down and then do the second one...
2 valves per cylinder so after every 2 valves you need to remove the compression tester and insert it into the next cylinder spark plug hole.. bump it over to build compression and then repeat the process..
Takes about an hour to do this.... Once this is done you can go ahead and pull it.. and do the bottom end... Look at the valves I am sure they are just fine if you had valve problems you would know it...
QuoteThe air from the compression tester ...keep the valve seated .... Replace the valve sea[highlight]t[/highlight] ( I prefer the hat type better protection)...
That should read sea[highlight]L[/highlight]
I see 258 long blocks at about $1200.00, a rebuild kit (rings, bearings, gaskets) about $220.
I believe Glenn has said before the engine is down on one cylinder.
If I'm not wrong Glenn said the clock was showing 66K miles or so, but what he didn't say was how many times it might have gone around, 2x, 3x?
My personal, non professional mechanic opinion is...
IF the engine had a real 66K (not likely for an '81) on it and one cylinder was down, I'd want to know why; valves or rings. A small amount of heavy oil squirted into the cylinder and a compression test should indicate if it's mainly leaking by the rings. That's probably the case.
Then I'd pull the head. If the cyl walls were good and the rings the likely culprit I'd re-ring. New bearings might be a good idea at that point, but IF the miles were really only 66K they might not be necessary. Depends.
IF the engine has a more likely 166K or more miles on it (IMHO very likely the clock's gone around at least once) and one cylinder is down there's no way I'd patch the engine unless I was considering unloading it on an unsuspecting stranger. I'd go with a rebuilt long block.
And how about the F&R crank seals?... I believe Glenn said something about leaks. Plus the timing chain / sprockets? What else??
JMHO YMMV.
Hey!! This is the topic where YMMV is most applicable! :)
Don the engine rebuild kits come with all the seals... the timing chain and gear come with the rebuild kit also...So you get everything...So you can fix all the leaks...
I would just look at the cylinder walls...Unless it was scored badly I would check for ridge get a mic out and look at the cylinder walls and if it was decent it would get a rebuild kit...
Glenn has a lot of vehicles and as an occasional driver he would get 20 years out of a rebuild done properly on something like the old Jeep
Well there ya' go. I didn't think they came with the timing chain, etc.
The only stuff I've done internal rebuilds on were my flathead Ford/Merc, my hypersensitive over- hot rodded 2.2L 123GT street car, the P122S race engines, the 455 Olds in the transporter, the hi-perf 258 in my CJ, and several motorcycle engines. :-/ Those were always done from the ground up with performance in mind. :-/
Thanks, guys. I get kind of lazy sometimes -- I could do the rebuild without too much trouble. Around 1200 is what I saw on the net.
I am more convinced that this thing has gone around at least once or more now. I don't think it would have that much blowby if it hadn't. Also - oil pressure is pretty low when idling. We tested 50 lbs on No.2 - Oil leaks seem to be reduced to near none since I resealed the valve cover - not sure but looks better - only drove it a couple times --- also put the breather hose to atmosphere - so it isn't blowing it out the oil fill cap now.
I used to replace valve seals with an air adapter to hold the valves shut - plug the holes and hit the valve spring retainer with a socket or pipe and the keepers will fly out in a split second. I welded a 2" piece of 3/4 pipe to a solid shaft to make a punch to do that with. Gotta be careful to not lose the keepers if doing it that way though.
QuoteAround 1200 is what I saw on the net.
One place I've bought a few parts from and been happy with the service is Rock Auto. http://www.rockauto.com/ They have a very nifty online catalog system.
Thanks, Don - I'll check it out.
Yeah - nice catalog.
Took the BushHog down to the spring - 450' elevation drop - and cut a dead oak tree down for firewood. Brought out the whole tree in one load - teetering on the side hills but ever so carefully, made it with no mishaps.
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/P1000560.jpg)
I made the side boards from Pine 1x4s screwed and glued - light but plenty strong.
The dump bed came in handy as I dumped it right in front of the woodshed and wood splitter. Glad I had Mike get me the power dumper. I don't think I could have dumped that by hand -- near 1000 lbs I would guess.
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/P1000561.jpg)
Probably near 1/4 cord there. Calculator shows .25 cord at 1400 lbs but it was a bit short of a cord and a bit dry.
http://www.csgnetwork.com/logweight.html
that is just an awesome little rig Glenn no matter how you look at it... you must feel plenty spoiled...I am a little jealous ;)
Neighbor calls me a lucky bum. :)
It allows me to easily do things I could only do with difficulty before. Other option would have been the Bobcat, but it wouldn't have been near as easy.
Glenn that bush hog is a lot fancier than my wheel barrow
QuoteThe dump bed came in handy as I dumped it right in front of the woodshed and wood splitter.
Darn show off!! Oak's nice burning wood, though back home there wasn't much opportunity for it; fair amount of Birch, also nice burning. Here we'll stick to S-P-F (Pine, Spruce or Fir, just like the lumber yards :) or Aspen (burns quick :'( )
Trust you pulled the chain saw off before completing the dump. ;D
That was a wise option for the hog, yessir. Got a name for it? The Bush Hog. :-/
When ya' going to install A/C?
I find I have a lot less creosote build up and carry in a lot less wood if I burn Oak, but Pine etc. gives a nice hot high heat fire.
I find things work much better no matter what the wood if it is real dry and chopped pretty small. Bigger chunks are OK for holding a fire for a while -- but don't burn as clean and efficiently as a smaller chopped wood fire that burns real hot and burns up more of the high temperature volatiles. Otherwise they kind of distill out and become a chimney coating -- and can later become a very hot chimney fire if not cleaned out often enough. Two or 3 times per year here for cleaning.
Actually that was just a photo-op. ;D-- I drove it down to the bottom by the woodshed and took the saw off in the garage.-- camera was up top in the truck. :) I just wanted to impress you with that Stihl 046 with a compression release and 30 inch bar.
Actually the saw was acting unmpressive- gas line needs to be replaced so it barely ran, but to its credit - when everything is good it is a real go-getter. Cuts dry oak in seconds. I have the mean chain on it with no safetys.
Some time back I made mention of the Vincent motorcycle. This week http://www.jaylenosgarage.com is featuring a 1952 Vincent Black Shadow motorcycle. A video look at it, then firing it up and taking a run on it. They are one cool bike, fastest of their day, an engineering marvel, truly outstanding bike considering other bikes of the era. If you're a gearhead you'll appreciate it. No frame as we know it, the engine was a stressed member.
http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/video/index.shtml?vidID=167040
an example
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/vincentblackshadow.jpg)
Your Vincent made me think of my 1925 Villiers -- motor cycle -- engine -- on my lawn mower.
http://www.localhistory.scit.wlv.ac.uk/Museum/Engineering/Villiers/Villiers10.htm
(//%3Cbr%20/%3Ehttp://www.localhistory.scit.wlv.ac.uk/Museum/Engineering/Villiers/advert7.jpg)
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/atcomower.jpg)
1925 ad
I have it here at the underground complex. Need to clean it up for a pix. Brought it up a couple months ago. No lawn here so no danger of me having to use it. :)
Not a riding mower is it? ;D
Love a picture whenever it's fit to be shown. Before & after?
No, not a rider - a walk behind-- the pix in the ad seems to be of my model. There were slight differences in those years but not much. An old fellow in England sent me a bunch of info on it and the company which is still in business sent me some also.
I will try to clean it up and get some pix of it soon. Maybe even start it up. Haven't had it running for many years, but still cranks over. :)
Chas. Pugh owned a foundry and had a large estate that he mowed with a mule pulling a lawn mower. The mule died and he was left with no way to mow his lawn. He commissioned his engineers to design a gas powered lawn mower so he wouldn't have to rely on animal power. This is the result. :)
I was joking about the riding part...
OWW! Just for the heck of it I searched ebay and found a '54 Vincent Black Shadow with a "buy it now" price of $48K.. :o :o
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Other-Makes-1954-Vincent-Black-Shadow-Strong-rider-GOOD-DEAL_W0QQitemZ220160068887QQihZ012QQcategoryZ6719QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Sorry about that, Don. That was a good one too --but I got it after Sassy informed me I missed it. :-/ :)
That's a pretty pricey bike. :o
Pulled the mighty Cummins Diesel out of my Dodge one ton yesterday. Cummins made a bad block -thin casting in Brazil around 1998-99 or so. The bad blocks all have the number 53 on the side of them. Cummins rebated me $1000 even though the truck is a 99 and had 148000 miles at the time I turned it in to them.
In my opinion that was a fair deal. Dodge warrantied many that cracked under warranty. Mine is long out of their warranty.
The crack is now 17" long - I used 30 gallons of water to go 60 miles the day I decided to shut it down.
I got a used engine out of a burned truck for 1500. I may have posted something about this before --don't remember. ::) i was trying to get all I could out of the old engine and procrastinate about changing it as long as possible. 2 pints of stop leak at the same time would no longer slow it down.
You mentioned the crack some time ago, when Stop-Leak still did the job.
The water usage reminds me of a time in the middle of nowhere, about 60 miles south of Green River, UT. The CJ water pump decided to cause trouble, coolant pouring out of the weep hole in a steady stream. There were three of us and I used up nearly all the water we all carried getting back up to Green River. It was close to 30 gallons IIRC. Napa Green River Auto Parts had a pump in stock so we only lost a days travel/play time.
G/L on the engine swap, Glenn.
Going pretty good on the swap but today I found a new problem. The dealer did warranty work on the fuel pump when I got it. His mechanic was a bit of a slop I'm afraid. Found missing bolts -- lifting bracket under the battery - took it off - didn't bother to put it back -- bent the bottom fuel pump mount bracket on the block and threw the bracket away I guess.
His best was better yet though -- I pulled the Injection pump and found that he hadn't aligned the timing key -- just smashed it into the gear with the mounting bolt - crushed 1/2 of it. Trouble is it is matched to the Bosch pump to fine tune the timing. There are 21 offset keys -- all different. I had to go to Fresno -- 150 mile round trip to get the 046 key. There other burned pump had an 043 so wouldn't swap.
Coming along though. :)
Quote-- 150 mile round trip to get the 046 key.
Don't you just hate backyard mechanics who disguise themselves as professionals!!
I feel that... The weekend I did the hip ridge shingles on the gazebo I had everything I needed. Or so I thought until I went to nail one in place. Because of the triple layer thickness of the special ridge shingles, added to the double thickness (in places) of the regular shingles the nails I HAD WERE TOO SHORT. Drove a 1 1/2 hour round trip to Los Alamos for $1.74 worth of longer roofing nails. Got their a half hour or so before closing thank goodness.
I paid with my credit card and they put it in their mail box for me. There were a couple guys still there but it was 5:20 when I got there.
I guess I'm still a good enough mechanic to spot the fake ones screwups. I still do it the same way -- get the book - read it - do it right as well as I can. :)
Speaking of other mechanics -- I found Mike a used Bobcat 843. The hyd. motors were leaking into the chain case. Bobcat wanted 3600 for parts and would do the job for $8000 or so. Mike traced down the manufacturer - ordered the motors for abiut $535 each - so about $1100 rather than $8000 plus. Pays to DIY - even mechanic work. :)
You know you either need more garage space (what I think) or have too much stuff (DW's thought) when you find yourself backing the Jeep in this close to the wall shelf. :-/ :-/
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/2750/mini-IMG_2649.jpg)
No question about it. You always need more garage space. :)
One thing is out of my garage now. Frank (renter and friend ) and the boys (son and brother-in-law) came over early this morning - before 9 and said they weren't leaving until my truck was on the road. I finished installing the injector pump and high pressure lines and the game was on. Seems everyone was busy all day long.
We had it running by about 5 pm. Things went smooth. Everyone knew their job and it went great. I still can't believe the nightmare is over. No more 30 gallons of water per day. I drove it downtown about 6:00 after checking the fluids etc. All was well.
What a great bunch of friends. :)
Some professionals disguise themselves as backyard mechanics. :)
Cleaned up the old Atco today.
Here are a couple pix.
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/P1000581.jpg)
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/P1000582.jpg)
i do not want the hassle of being in a big shop....I have regular customers and their friends...Doing their work suits me...No hassles with general population...
Just read the topic, congrats on the 4x4 Glenn. I miss my wife's 73 jeepster commando,
just like this one but orange!
(http://jeepnstuff.com/db4/00345/jeepnstuff.com/_uimages/Commando.jpg)
The ATCO appears to be a marvel of complexity. Kinda cool though! Tanks for the pix.
Hey Preston, Commandos are cool Jeeps too. We have one running and two "being worked on" in my 4x4 club.
I would love to get one again, I've been searching online. I loved that Jeep! It was great, had 300,000+ miles on it and just kept running!
The ATCO is a real thing of beauty and an engineering marvel. :)
Thanks, Preston. I really like the old beast. Like a truck in a car.
It will need an overhaul in the near future but I have it hitting on whats left of all 6, so is getting around pretty dependably now. The new OH'd trans is working great. I'm sure it would run much better if it was overhauled.
So many things going on now - truck block change just finished - final drive to put in the John Deere 2010 trackhoe/loader- rock crusher to build a trailer for and mount the motor etc. -prospecting - fixing things on and for the house and shop -- I don't know which to do first but the overhaul will have to wait as long as it is usable. :-/
I put things off to the last minute... :-/ I just work better under pressure ;D
IF I needed a new engine, and at only 70K on my '99 I'm a long long ways from that, I'd love to do a stroker. 4.5, 4.6, 4.7 liters. It's even possible to get 5.0 L out of the six... just bring enough dollars.
It's not too difficult to do a 4.6 L engine with 231hp @ 4400rpm, 327lbft @ 2000rpm.
http://www.ajeepthing.com/stroker-motor.html
http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/engine/154_0508_golen_4_6l_stroker_engine/index.html
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TITAN-4-6-4-7-258-Replacement-JEEP-STROKER-ENGINE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQihZ014QQitemZ330180473390QQtcZphoto
I should study up on that a bit. :)
One of the guys in my 4x4 club http://nm4w.org/ is building one for his Comanche. (an MJ, the pickup version of the Cherokee XJ. MJ's have half a frame, the front is unibody like the XJ and trhe rear a frame like a conventional pickup)
I like the full frame and the feel of the Cherokee. It drives like the trucks in the old days.
I actually worked all day today -- Frank and Pancho called last night and said they would be here to work on the 2010 John Deere Trackhoe/Loader today.
As promised, they arrived and we got the final drive back on the right side - and the track back on. A combination of truck crane on the Dodge and Lull reach lift made the job relatively easy compared to what it could have been.
All that is left is to put in a new battery, fill up the final with gear lube, check the other final and get it off the safety stands.
Last pix I have of it is on the RV garage which is the last time I used it. Nice to have it going again.
(//%3Cbr%20/%3Ehttps://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/ccc4scd.jpg)
Not a hot rod, but it is mechanical. ::)
Now to put it to work to pay for the repairs. :)
After 40,000 miles the Goodyear MT/R's needed replacing. (actually a set of 6, 2 replaced under replacement warranty due to mysterious sidewall cuts that appeared out of nowhere... ;D ) I went with BFG all-terrain KO's this time. [32x11.5R15's, stock rims... bead area is better protected... we'll have to see how those weights fare... may have to do stick ons inside the wheel, tho' the previous ones were lucky. :-/ ] Reasonably chunky tread for grabbing mud and getting a grip on rocks, and they do have better traction on damp asphalt than the mud treads.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/cherokee/newtires.jpg)
One nice thing about a lifted vehicle is the storage space you have under it. :) 94# bag of cement, steel, etc.
Looks like fun, Don. :)
I had to buy a Bobcat tire today -- Cheapest I found so far was from Bobcat - $325 14 x 17.5
I bought 1 Michelin for my truck to match the old spare - never used -- that I already had. Wanted to se if the Michelin's would last longer than the Cooper/Kenda - etc.
I'm happy with the tires, just disenchanted with the tire tech who did the installation. I specifically asked for 24# in the front 26# in the rear. That's what I used in the MTR's; good starting point. I thought it rode a wee but rougher than I expected so today I pulled it out of the garage to check tire pressures. I found 40# in each one! :o >:(
340 Swinger with the AFB 4bbl was a hot car.
I was head mechanic at Dodge then. I'm pretty sure it was faster than the Roadrunner with the 426 Hemi. I worked on and drove them both.
I tuned a 340 up for a customer - don't think his 4bbl had been kicking in. It would burn the tires in second gear with an automatic manually shifted. The customer came back in a few weeks and asked what I had done to his car - it had never run like that -- I used to do every factory check and adjustment by the book with a Sun Scope.
Everybody probably knows this already, but...
To remove a broken bolt or stud from a hole in a casting or other place if tight or rusted (as an alternative to drilling and easy outs etc), if it is not above the surface, carefully weld only the end of the bolt with a wire feed welder or small stick rod to get it to the surface or slightly above. Be careful to not weld it to the part it is stuck in. Put a nut over the end of the broken bolt and plug weld the end of the bolt to the nut, completely filling it with weld metal. The nut can be placed over the end of the bolt before welding and the weld done through the center of the nut, but I like to build it up first. Again - avoid welding to the part it is stuck in. The red hot heat of the weld, will transfer down the length of the stuck bolt expanding it and breaking loose the rust. When it cools it will be smaller than it was before and unscrew fairly easily.
I had one to do the other day that took 3 tries but it came out- the other 3 were no problem. Start slowly wiggling it back and forth to break it loose, possibly adding some penetrating oil. If you start too soon it will break off the hot metal.
This also works to remove stuck bearing races from wheels, etc. or simply to make them easy to remove. Don't hit anything else and damage it with an arc. :)
Always ground the welder directly on the piece you are working on so it doesn't arc through bearings, seals etc.
Good tip Glenn. One better not be shaky when trying the welder trick tho' ;D
I never have a problem doing it. I usually try to steady my hand by resting it on a part of the machine - etc.
Here's another - not quite as good but works.
Preferably - drill a hole through the broken bolt then take the oxy/acetylene torch and preheat the broken bolt. Carefully - with a finger under and thumb over the oxygen lever for extra control, hit the oxygebn to start the bolt burning - at the same time move the torch back to prevent fouling the tip. Add enough oxygen to burn the bolt out of the hole.
If done carefully the bolt will separate at the casting thread line and only the pre-heated bolt will burn out of the hole. A pointed punch or chisel and small hammer will clean the remaining small pieces out of the hole. Usually it does no damage at all to the threads but a bottom tap will usually clean the threads if necessary.
Note that it is not really necessary to drill the broken bolt but the results may be a bit better if you do.
One of the problems with a lifted vehicle like my Cherokee is hitching a trailer to it. Installing a typical receiver hitch was not an option as they hang down under the bumper reducing the clearance at the rear. I solved the problem by starting with a new bumper I built myself. 2x6 inch 3/16 wall steel was used. I cut through the bumper and welded a receiver tube into place.
The trailer has a low ride height which is great for loading and unloading. However this meant a drop of nearly 18 inches from the bottom of the bumper receiver tube to the base of the hitch ball. :o
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/hitchdropheight.jpg)
As I suspected while designing this, with such an extreme drop there was quite a bit of sideways slop at the hitch ball. It made all kinds of noise. Backing up over bumpy ground and backing around corners probably put more sideways twisting force at the receiver tube than I liked. I was certain things would wear and just get worse. :(
I had built the bumper with two large tabs primarily for attaching tow straps with large D-rings. The 3/8" steel tabs actually go right through the bumper, welded on the front and rear of the bumper tubes. Half inch bolts connect to the custom mounts. All welds are air tight as I use the front and rear bumpers as air tanks.
I built a Vee shaped brace using 1 inch square, 11 gauge wall, tubing. The lower end of the Vee connects to the drop hitch. The upper ends of the Vee connect to the bumper at the two tow tabs. Snap ring pin locks make mounting and demounting easy.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/hitchwithbrace.jpg)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/hitchpinmount.jpg)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/hitchtopview.jpg)
There's now no noise emanating from the hitch and I'm happy. :)
Good design, Don.
We'll blame this one, or give credit to, desdawg.
What happens when you cross a gearhead with a chainsaw hobby?
You get a V8 powered chainsaw. (https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/Emoticons/scarysmiley.gif)
Aluminum Buick 215 cu.in. V8
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends/predatorchainsaw.jpg)
http://mrcompletely.blogspot.com/2006/08/predator-buick-v8-chain-saw.html
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/93D1AC99-E220-469D-84E0-9849001DF97C.htm
http://video.yahoo.com/?t=t&fr=&p=v8chainsaw
That's pretty cool Don and desdawg.
I have a couple antique chain saws -- a Redhead in pieces - and a Titan. Also an old Sears I think it is.
With the forecast calling for some snow I've hauled the winch out for the trip up to the mountains Friday. It's an oldie, a Warn 6000 I've had for some 25 years. It's mounted on a plate with a receiver mount. Mountable front or rear with plug in power connectors; one under the hood, one at the rear bumper.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/cherokee/mini-IMG_2865.jpg)
The L-shaped white thingie is to allow the winch to be mounted in a higher more upright position with more approach angle.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/cherokee/mini-IMG_2866.jpg)
Removing that piece allows the winch to be switched to operational position.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/cherokee/mini-IMG_2867.jpg)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/cherokee/mini-IMG_2868.jpg)
The winch capacity is a little marginal for the loaded weight of the Cherokee, but it's a lot easier to handle than a 9 or 10,000 pounder. :-\
I have a 12000 I had on a truck but haven't hooked it to anything in years. I used it for lifting ROPS on a home made crane. I don't want any snow yet.
That 12K pounder must be a bear to lift. [eek]
There are some good prices on Chinese made winches. Sam's Club has a 10,000 lb complete with the receiver tray and a big snatch block. $400
One of my 4x4 club members has one and used it a fair amount this fall and it stood up to the task.
I paid more than that for my US made Warn a quarter century ago. Sounds a lobg time when put that way.
This is simply beautiful!! And its got wood in it too! [cool]
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/cars/37Fordfrontside.jpg)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/cars/37Fordrearside.jpg)
1937 Ford, Fiddleback Maple
Jay Leno's Garage (http://jaylenosgarage.com/) has a feature this week on a 1909 Stanley Steamer. [cool]
The Steamer has so much low speed torque it's possible to spin the wooden wheels inside the rubber tires, tearing the valve stems off the tubes. :o
I saw one at a collectors one time but it wasn't the same. Seems it had a coiled boiler. I think it was a Stanley.
I had a slow drive back from the mountains today. :(
The Jeep started make a rumbling, grumbling sound after I'd been back on the pavement a while. Under load, not when coasting ??? Got worse. I stopped and the t-case was rather hot, diff's were cool, barely warm. No oil drips but I checked the level and it was fine. There's something rotten going on; just what I need. ::)
Vehicle crap seems to happen most when the weather's turned cold.
Automatic? Torque converter? hmm
Also -- I'm thinking maybe u-joints - they can do that -- shift back into place when you let off.
A cursory look and a grab and shake on the driveshafts didn't reveal anything, doesn't always mean anything. I didn't feel like crawling under today; maybe tomorrow I'll get it up off the ground.
The t-case sure seemed hot though so I was leaning in that direction. Just a guess so far. The real drqag is pulling off all the steel plates under all the parts. ::)
The thing that gets me about the t-case is the no noise while coasting. I would expect it to be more constant.
I wonder about that too. It's a chain drive... I'm thinking maybe under load the chain tension is loading one of the bearing on the secondary shaft (not the right name,,,) . I dunno... I don't know much about the t-case... just guessing for now.
I'm going more for u-joints. You many times have to slack them a little before they will show up as loose and they deteriorate rather rapidly.
Before commencing anything I rolled the Jeep down the drive and got a tock-tock-tock noise. Backed it back up wit the same.
The T-case fluid drained out a dirty pink, but totally clear of any metallic particles. That's good. I'll be doing a complete drain and fill up with new Mobil One synthetic.
I pulled the rear driveshaft, after struggling with the ridiculously small amounts of wrench room, and found the CV a little rough. Worse, I found I'd "bruised" the shaft on a rock or something very hard right up behind the CV joint. I gave it to my neighbor who's in the driveshaft business. He's going to see if there's much in the way of salvageable parts.
And the T-case being hot might just be heat transfer from the auto trans. They're bolted up tight to each other. That's what I've been told. :-\ I've never noticed it before.
I had quite a time diagnosing the T/C being out on my Jeep -- friend Al thought it was the transfer case but analyzing what worked and what didn't and clinky noises led me to the torque converter. It was totally thrashed.
When I worked for Dodge I could road test a car and tell which axle bearing was out from the sound and vibration.
It's a bit harder over the internet. :)
It was $950 at a discount (reg $1175) for a High Performance torque converter for the mighty Cummins - 200 core charge - but it will tear up the factory ones here in the mountains -- actually as a rule there is nothing much worse than a factory torque converter.
Only $805 for the complete overhaul with a new rebuilt T/C for the Jeep.
Sometimes I figure it is better for me to continue working and let some of the pro's do the job as I can make the money in the time I would lose being down - so still a sort of break even thing -- TC on the Dodge was no choice -- Jeep trans I could have done but was cheaper to let the pro do it for $805 and work at my regular job.
It varies up and down depending on what I can charge out to the job - me - equipment --helper - etc. but that's ballpark -- when I work. I don't make anything sitting here.
I picked up the renewed driveshaft today. The tube was okay. They installed a new double CV joint. I had the tail end joint replaced as well; too much trouble to take it out if it fails sometime down the road.
The failure was my own fault for not lubing it frequently enough. It's a royal pain... needs to be totally removed to lube the CV end. Just one of the downsides of a suspension lift. :(
I found I was out of kerosene for the shop heater and since the high today reached a balmy 38 I put it off till tomorrow when I'll have kerosene and the weather will be warmer. Maybe 45. ;D
$115
How's that stack up in your neighborhood, Peter, Glenn?
Sounds cheap for here. I can't start my truck and drive to town for 115.
I thought it was quite fair. For my money it sure beat me trying to do it myself. It was done by a shop that does nothing but driveshaft work and most of that is for heavy duty equipment and commercial trucks. I know the guy so he might be giving me jobbers price. I don't know for sure about that, but it's done right the first time too.
Tell me about it. I do pretty good work but charge way too much. ::)
...the government made me do it....
...sometimes I don't charge enough to get even though.
The driveshaft shop includes a dynamic balance too.
Well, I finally got around to re-installing the rebuilt d-shaft. So easy to put off when it's got one at the other end. ::) Runs smooth and quiet. I even remembered to grease 'em. The shop did the CV fine but not the single rear joint.
Guess I was pretty close on diagnosing the illness - even over the internet. :) Well - at least it was on the driveshaft.
I had put a u-joint in mine a few weeks earlier and had that same vibration.
You were on track! The sound was a little different from other u-joint failures... but so far apart in time, it may be my memory failing as well. ;D The main problem/culprit was the ball and socket part that join the two cross joints. Made the tock-tock-tock sound even when rolling slowly. Just a lot more noticeable on the highway.
I have been reading this thread and have to say I admire you guys mechanical ability. [cool] And I am a little envious. I haven't ever been much good in that area and it really takes away from my attempt at self sufficiency. I took an auto mechanic class in high school but never really developed any skills. And lots of what I learned there doesn't even apply anymore. No points and condensors these days. I can do a few simple things but some of my best tools are phone numbers of people who know what they are doing, especially when it comes to the tractors. When I get up there in the hills it all becomes a lot more difficult. There isn't much way to load anything up and haul it out of there if it isn't running. :-\ So far it hasn't come up but it is a concern. Anyway I have a lot of respect for those who have the knack. Hopefully I can keep reading and gain some inspiration to develop in that area. I think I need to.
First thing, desdawg, is to get the shop manuals on every piece of equipment you have . Parts and operator manuals too. Even at 80 to 100 dollars each, they are well worth it. Haynes manuals etc are pretty worthless -- get the real deals.
There are few mechanics who would be much without the manual until they have several repairs of the same thing under their belts.
Do you have a good source for Bobcat manuals Glenn? I now have two 863's, one at each place. Those are probably the most intimidating looking pieces of equipment I have.
You could try eBay. I've bought a few things there and have found everything ok. TThough I only buy from folks with real good feedback ratings. I saw a couple 843 manuals there this AM... new, $80
E-bay is probably best - I buy a lot there with good results- serial numbers can make a difference. Check that yours is covered.
The manual will tame a lot of that intimidation down. After that they are just plain hard to work on -- not near as bad after you get a clue what to do.
Been out of town for a couple of days. Edited my post to 863 rather than 843. Duh. My first Bobcat was an 843 but these aren't. Anyway I should have known to look on E-bay. You can find nearly anything there. $94 with shipping and it looks like the same manual would cover both machines based on serial #'s. I e-mailed the seller to make sure.
Emboldened by that I searched for a repair manual for my New Holland LB75. $300 Canadian or $296 US$. Ouch. And only one available from a retiring New Holland dealer. That one will have to wait. It would be pretty easy to spend a lot of money on manuals wouldn't it?
No doubt, desdawg, but one repair will pay for all of them. Shops generally charge from
$80 per hour and up. Cummins is $109 here. They are entitled to coffee breaks also. I save thousands of dollars per year doing my own repairs. Over $12000 this year alone compared to shop prices
Oh I know you are right Glenn. Especially when you are out there where the hoot owls meet the chickens. Like I said it is a big hole in my self sufficiency attempt so I need to learn.
Also - desdawg - there are forums on almost anything you can think of -- many are good like ours - I saved several thousand on the Dodge Truck Cummins forum also and got a $1000 check from Cummins for their bad block casting I learned about on the forum.
Actually I would be interested in taking some classes if I could find some close by. Like maybe a community college or something. I have a mechanic up north who is working on my little Massey grading tractor. It wouldn't lift the arms on the three point hitch. He had never been into one and when I saw him the other day he said he could see what needed to be repaired but he hadn't figured out exactly how it worked. The inner workings of a hydrostatic transmission baffle me.I have no background in that area whatsoever. Spending some time with someone who knows the principles would be a good thing.
I hink there is a hyd. pump in the bottom of the transmission but it runs the lift. I have seen water get into the trans and gooey oil plug the pump -- could even tear it up.
Could be some info here. http://www.ytmag.com/mf/messages/archive80.htm
Start with general stuff - some of the old motor manuals had general theory - study your shop manuals over a bit and you should start picking it up. Pretend it is an interesting novel. :)
Glenn, you're a Dodge guy from way back. Here's an extremely nice Power Wagon
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends2/PowerWagon-5-02.jpg)
More photos and info HERE (http://www.hotrodscustomstuff.com/PowerWagon-01.html)
That is a beauty. Looks too nice to use.
I've loved these things since I was a kid. The civilian models and I were born the same year. :o
I've more photos and links someplace around here too.
I like it too :)
That has always been one of my favorite trucks -- the Dodge Power Wagon.:)
What a beauty.
One more Power Wagon.
This one for the woodworker gearheads among us.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends2/power-woodie.jpg)
Nice combination of two loves. :)
That's nice Don. I wish I had a woody. :)
[noidea' I was of course talking about the Dodge, Peter.
There was another PW that you'd find interesting Glenn, but I don't think I saved a photo. IIRC it was ot outstanding in any visual sense. What made it cool was being repowered with a '99 Cummins diesel.
That is a great engine to power nearly anything with. It would make a tough little Cherokee. :)
That second Power Wagon is more my style. Looks like you can't hurt it on the roads I have to deal with.
I am still taking notes regarding manuals. The e-bay seller never responded and I never went back to pursue it. I guess I ought to, but given my new finacial status, i.e. retired without a pension, I will wait a bit longer or until I need one.
The only pension plan we'll have is what I get from the VA, which isn't that great... most of it will be from the "Thrift Plan" (401K), a tiny stipend for the pension, & the rest they expect you to get from social security... now, if I have anything left in the Thrift plan it won't be so bad.
Our property & equipment are also part of the package for retirement. If we have to sell, we always have a lot of that, depending on how the market is... :-\
The small diesels are great for small trucks, but the Cummins is tough to beat for full size.
I'm running around 300hp now but it can go up about as far as you want. I need the horses as my truck and tools are around 11000 to 12000 lbs empty and sometimes I put a couple thousand lb. load on the rack.
Here's Gus and a Mustang.
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&VideoID=1103305
Desdawg... here's a power wagon we could both feel comfortable about knocking it about. It's a '47 with the factory 10,000 lb PTO winch on the front. Although with the stock flathead it wouldn't be a quick trip, it would get the job done. I'd actually love one like this with a later model EFI Chevy small block (OK, maybe a 318 Dodge/Chrysler to keep it in the family) for motive power. Sort of a rat rod approach. And Vintage Air A/C... a must in the SW.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends2/47-RtRr.jpg) d*
Another interesting one I managed to lose track of, or rather the URL went south, had a 4 cylinder Jimmy diesel stuck into it. Can't remember if it was a 53 or a 71 series. ???
Peter, living where I do I would not want any vehicle I'd drive with any frequency that did not have A/C. I've been there, done that. No thank you any more.
As for the engine, if I was going to the trouble of repowering, I'd want to go the extra mile and use something that had EFI. That eliminates a lot of otherwise perfectly good older engines. More heresy; ;D I'd also want an automatic transmission, a late model electronic OD model. :o Those power wagons had very low axle gears... at least 4.89 standard and I think there was an optional 5.83:1. Of course that would eliminate the PTO, but I'd rather have the AT.
Oh yeah, add in power steering as another must have.
Maybe disc brakes and power assist, or at least the power assist (maybe a hydro boost) .... the list never ends does it? ;D
In California on a used car we first check to see if it has A/C then we check to see if it has an engine.
Too hot to go anywhere here in the summer without A/C.
Quote from: glenn kangiser on January 10, 2008, 11:46:55 PM
.... first check to see if it has A/C then we check to see if it has an engine.
rofl rofl
Quote from: benevolance on January 11, 2008, 12:40:28 AM
...Methinks you guys are getting soft in your old age though...
You might have something there Peter. :-\ I do recall a number of trips in my old CJ to UT in July :o No top, or rather bikini top, no A/C, air so dry you don't even know you're sweating... but it is so nice doing the same trips in the A/C'd Cherokee. Power windows yet!
Note: With the CJ I did rig up a 'misting' system where I could spray a fine cooling mist of water that was directed directly at me. Not as good as A/C tho. Further note: two of my 4x4 club mates have CJ's with Vintage Air A/C units. They are [cool]
I love automatics. :) I used to think "real men shift gears themselves". Then I had 2 Scouts, one after the other; one a T-19 manual, one a Torqueflite auto. The granny low was cool! But the auto offered more control in the rough. Automatics are superior to any manual box doing serious 4 wheeling. For everyday use you can't beat them, either. In my book. OMMV. Much more control using brake and gas in unison compared to a clutch system. They are a lot like A/C. Less hassle. More cool. If you're feeling like showing off, there's nothing like stopping on a serious uphill, then continuing on your way, smoothly, calmly, no slipping back, no madly revving engine, no clutch slipping, no tire spinning, this you can do with an automatic, not a manual box.
Yes, EFI means a computer as a part of the package. Modern computers seldom fail. Yes, it was easy to set old fashioned points with a matchbook cover in an emergency, but I haven't had to do that in decades. With my Cherokee,
THE vehicle I'm most likely to find myself "in the middle of nowhere, without a paddle" I have a spare computer bolted under the hood. Unplug one, plug in the other. Yes it cost me a few hundred used. But it's there, It's ready.
IF,
IF I was doing a Power Wagon I'd get a Dana 60 front end, with disks, and transplant it complete with a P/S steering box, etc. Been done many times in Jeeps.
As I recall, the 292 was quite a gas hog wasn't it?
Well, what if we get hit with the electromagnetic pulsation weapons & all the computers are knocked out? ???
Quote from: benevolance on January 10, 2008, 03:53:14 PM
Desdawg
I am not going to have a pension plan either...Should I open my veins now? :-\
Naw Peter, I just do it a day at a time. My world hasn't collapsed yet.
Sassy, most of what I own is construction equipment and real estate. It is not a real good time to sell either one right now. I guess the right time will come. I have spent a lot of time accumulating all the "right" equipment. Someone suggested the other day that I take it all to the Ritchie Brothers auction. n* That would be kind of like parting with your first born. I am not ready mentally for that. I spent the first part of last year, when I saw the handwriting on the wall, stashing every dime I could so I will make it a while longer.
Chevy 6 292? Ford had a V-8 that size. That was about the time Ford realized that oil needed to be pumped to the rocker arms. I had a Ford 272 with aftermarket external oilers, copper tubing that delivered oil to the valve covers. I guess they had a hard time with the OHV concept.
312 was the big brother to the 272, 292 Ford V-8's. I had a 56 Mercury and a 58 Ford with one each. They had their own sound.
I didn't use Chevy much in the 292 era. Here's a quote from Wikipedia.
Quote292
The 292 was only used in Chevrolet and GMC trucks; the block deck is taller, along with a relocated passenger-side engine mount. These were produced between 1963 to 1990; production of the engine shifted to Mexico after 1984.
L25
The L25 was GM's "last" straight-6 engine, produced from 1977 to 1985. It was used in Chevrolet trucks, displaced 292 in³ (4.8 L) and produced 115 hp and 215 ft.lbf.
Quote from: Sassy on January 11, 2008, 03:44:55 AM
Well, what if we get hit with the electromagnetic pulsation weapons & all the computers are knocked out? ???
If that happens there'll be a whole lot of things to worry about. I'm not to to limit myself to old technology just because something like that might happen. I'm more likely to die in a traffic accident or have something more mundane happen than weapons of mass destruction. OMMV
Me too, Don. We'll just fall back on our survival skills if the need be. :)
Quote from: glenn kangiser on January 11, 2008, 02:53:42 PM
Me too, Don. We'll just fall back on our survival skills if the need be. :)
Take it a day at a time.
I am not sure what the old power wagon front axle is. But it doesn't appear to be larger than a Dana 60. ???
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends2/frontaxlecropped.jpg)
The 60 is used as the front member in the current 1 ton Dodge truck. Quite stout and easy to get with discs. Lots of aftermarket including ARB's.
MtnDon, quit showing us those cool trucks - you're making me want one n* and we can't afford something like that right now - not in time rebuilding one or outright buying it :( but I sure do like em :)
I can't really afford one either UNLESS I could find one cheap, that wasn't a pile of rusted immobile parts. Fat chance of that. I simply want to have others share my pain. ;D ;D Thanks for sharing! :D
Here's a nice one on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1948-Dodge-Power-Wagon-in-original-condition_W0QQitemZ330202598404QQihZ014QQcategoryZ39413QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Thanks, Don d* d*
Old saying, "Misery loves company". Those are tough looking trucks.
The Paris - Dakar rally was canceled this year (2008) because of unrest in Nigeria.
Even the support trucks get into the action. :o
MORE HERE (http://www.sportfotografie.net/Foto/2007/Pre-Proloog%20Dakar%202007/album/slides/Pre-Prolooog%20Dakar%202007-trucks-26.html)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends2/IMG_003jump600.jpg)
My tastes are way simpler these days, and boy am I glad considering what you folks are throwing around! My nephew and I are trading Craig's List ads back and forth for the perfect beater farm truck. Oooh! Looky! $1,500 and only 82K miles!
(http://images.craigslist.org/010106010204010404200712266830d080f5c2fb8343002bfe.jpg)
Quote from: Drew on January 15, 2008, 12:02:45 AM
Oooh! Looky! $1,500 and only 82K miles!
That sounds like a great deal if it's honest miles. Even good if it was more. It looks like a recent enough model to have a 999,999.9 odometer. ??
Even if it had a wrinkle or two not bad. I have a neighbor with one that looks similar. F-350. It's a work vehicle; pipeline work. Last I heard the clock was at 277,000 and it still runs good from what I can see.
I have a '94 Chrysler LHS with only 55,000 honest miles on the clock that we've just acquired through my MIL's estate. We don't need it, though I do like the car. Trying to decide what to ask for it. ???
I'm sitting here this morning reading the hot rod corner from page 1 over coffee. I'm up to page 6 or so but I need to get to work >:( . I've always had more of an interest in small fuel efficient cars than in hot rods. I look at the technology with a background in math & physics not auto mechanics, and a bias towards simplicity. Any way yesterday I came across an article and here is a short excerpt.
"In 1987, for example, the average vehicle could accelerate to 60 miles per hour in 13.1 seconds, weighed 3,221 pounds and had a 118 horsepower engine, offering about the same power as a 2008 Nissan Versa subcompact, which offers 122 horsepower.
By 2007, according to data from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, the average vehicle weighed 4,144 pounds, boasted a 223 horsepower engine and did zero to 60 in 9.6 seconds."
A while back I saw a statistic that the average fuel efficiency of the overall fleet of cars on American roads was 25mpg in the day of the model T Ford and is 25mpg today.
I don't think this is a plan by the gov't/auto makers. Even with $3.00 gas the fuel efficient cars at the local Ford dealership sit longer in inventory than the SUV's and crew cab trucks. Too many Americans believe they need a big vehicle. They need the big engine to get up that hill.
Although I never owned one, one of my favorite cars from years ago was the Austin America. It had a lot of failings common to British cars of that era, but was ahead of its time. A bit bigger than a Mini Cooper, FWD, got 35 - 40 mpg. I wish that platform had been the beneficiary of continued improvement.
This evening I'll catch up on the rest of the hot rod corner.
It's the basic LHS, they were few options at all. Unfortunately the body has enough small bumps and grinds that most if not all the $$ gains made by the low mileage will be erased. Parking lot posts. I didn't think she should have been driving for the past year, but nobody (family) would agree with me.
Quote from: MountainDon on January 15, 2008, 12:23:42 AM
Quote from: Drew on January 15, 2008, 12:02:45 AM
Oooh! Looky! $1,500 and only 82K miles!
That sounds like a great deal if it's honest miles. Even good if it was more. It looks like a recent enough model to have a 999,999.9 odometer. ??
There are actually 2 of these, each for $1,500. My nephew, Vince, is going down to drive the "Turlock Twins" since they are out his way and see what is what.
"That's really cool of you, man. I appreciate you doing it."
"Are you kidding? I go down, I knock on their door, I say, 'Can I drive your truck? I'll be back after dinner.' This is fun!"
They're 1994 Ford F350 4x4s. For 14 year old trucks, the 82k and 102k miles may be on the engines and not the frame, but who knows? I commuted in my 99 Dodge and have about 110K on it.
Hey there John_C... your comment about reading this through from page 1 made me go back and check out how things translated from the changeover to SMF. I found a few image links that were messed up... fixed them.
on this page http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=2532.40
Quote from: John C on January 15, 2008, 09:37:42 AM
Although I never owned one, one of my favorite cars from years ago was the Austin America. It had a lot of failings common to British cars of that era, but was ahead of its time. A bit bigger than a Mini Cooper, FWD, got 35 - 40 mpg. I wish that platform had been the beneficiary of continued improvement.
I remember those.
Austin America Website (http://www.austinamericausa.com/)
Quote from: John C on January 15, 2008, 09:37:42 AM
I don't think this is a plan by the gov't/auto makers. Even with $3.00 gas the fuel efficient cars at the local Ford dealership sit longer in inventory than the SUV's and crew cab trucks. Too many Americans believe they need a big vehicle. They need the big engine to get up that hill.
I'm waiting to see what the
Smart Car (http://www.smartusa.com/) does here in the USA. From what I've read they aren't exactly setting sales records in Europe and they discontinued the 4 place model over there.
:-\
The SMART CAR had to have been designed by quite a committee. It's ugly, doesn't get very good mileage for it's size, and it's relatively expensive. How'd they do dat ???
It's odd to me that the SMART CAR is moving to market while Mercedes' development of the so called bionic car has languished. I think I've posted this before but here it is again
(http://www.daimlerchrysler.com/Projects/c2c/channel/images/213957_333807_381_254_bioniccar_exterior_600.jpg)
Still funky looking but at least functional. The weird look comes with a really low Cd of 0.19. With a 140 hp diesel it gets 70mpg with room for 4 real people.
I agree with Peter's assessment, except the part about people buying them. Too many folks I know are waiting for the 50mpg Suburban.... That will take a while.
I spent last night catching up on the rest of the hot rod corner. You guys have been having too much fun.
Another weird but fuel efficient car from the post WWII era. A Messerschmitt... about 65 mpg with 1940's technology.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends2/schmittkr200bg00.jpg)
ED: tossed the image in a photobucket account. Sometimes links to 3rd party websites are not reliable. Sometimes their server blocks links to them after a certain number of loads. I also noticed the first time I read the message it was slow to appear. - MD
Quote from: John C on January 16, 2008, 08:20:42 AM
Another weird but fuel efficient car from the post WWII era. A Messerschmitt... about 65 mpg with 1940's technology.
If you ever sat in one you really feel it's aviation heritage. The 'cockpit' feels almost as cramped as that of a fighter plane. Back home in Canada the Hudson Bay Company downtown department store had them on display and available for purchase. I never did see any on the road though.
That's an interesting museum site too.
http://www.microcarmuseum.com/
What did it look like before the accident?
The picture of the Messerschmitt doesn't show up on my computer at work. The Pic above it that I posted shows up just fine.
Can others see the Messerschmitt?
Quote from: Drew on January 16, 2008, 11:04:55 AM
What did it look like before the accident?
The Bionic Car, Drew ??? I've crapped things that look better than that.
(http://www.daimlerchrysler.com/Projects/c2c/channel/images/213957_333807_381_254_bioniccar_exterior_600.jpg)
I tossed the Messerschmitt image in a photobucket account. Sometimes links to 3rd party websites are not reliable. Sometimes their server blocks links to them after a certain number of loads. I also noticed the first time I read the message it was slow to appear.
I'd seen that micromuseum site before but never looked through the entire photo tour. Until now, over the past couple days. I have a reason to go to Madison, GA.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends2/1959whattadrag-00.jpg)
Noe that's a microcar!
1959 BMW Isetta WHATTADRAG
This car is just like the small toy HotWheels version
Except that it actually runs.
And it is very very fast.
And it is very very loud.
With a Big Block Chevy 502 motor and SuperCharger,
BF-Goodrich G-Force P215/60R14 tires in the front
and a single Sumitoma HTRZ II 285/35ZR18 tire in the rear,
it will smoke any other microcar out there.
Yes, there is a switch to make it throw flames out about 4 feet on each side
Manufacturers:
Body by Bayerische Motoren Werke, Munich, Germany
Everything else done by The Bruce Weiner Microcar Museum.
Did we ever post anything about the Aerocar?
http://www.aerocar.com/
(http://www.aerocar.com/images/FLY102.jpg)
No Glenn, we never did.
The recently announced Indian Tata Nano (below)...
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends2/tatanano.jpg)
...does bear a resemblance to the 1971 Cicostar, built and sold in France during the 1970's oil crunch.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends2/1971cicostar00.jpg)
1970 saw a worldwide energy crisis looming, and the French responded with a typical no-nonsense down-to-earth philosophy which had enabled them to survive such crises in the past. Small regional companies would be encouraged to build light, simple energy-efficient vehicles under a new set of government regulations. Some thirty companies responded over the next decade to build an astonishing variety of minicars. Unorthodox and spartan both in nature and appearance, such vehicles could only have come from France.
Of course, they utilized modern materials, and took advantage of recent developments in small-engine technology.
All vehicles with a 49.9cc engine could now be driven without a driver's license and by anyone over 14 years of age at a top speed of 45 kph.
The manufacturer CICO took this opportunity to develop a comfortable vehicle that fitted these requirements, the Cicostar.
Touted as "la plus elegante des petites voitures", it seated two people, had rear-wheel drive, and a variable automatic transmission by GRIMECA.
I've been asked about auto batteries. So here's my opinion(s)
I use Optima red top batteries in my Jeep. I started buying Optima red top batteries when they first came out a long time ago. Then, I bought it because the coiled gel cell technology promised better physical shock resistance and that is important when doing serious back country four wheeling. Another plus is they are totally sealed, no dripping acid if you're upside down. :-[ I never have, BTW. :) Being sealed the terminals never corrode. Being sealed also means they can be mounted on their end, side or even upside down. That makes it easier to find a place for a second battery.
I have two batteries. I do not use an electronic (diode) battery isolator. I use a simple heavy duty continuous duty relay. When the engine runs the relay is energized and connects the second battery to the system. When the engine (ignition key) is off the relay is not energized and the battery is isolated. Leave your lights on, whatever? No matter. Turn on the ignition, press the momentary contact toggle to energize the second battery and connect it to the system. Start the engine. Away you go. In normal mode when starting the engine the second battery is not connected, so it sits there as a reserve at all times. It's only normally connected when the engine is running.
I get five years of use out of them and then recycle them. Just to be sure I have a good battery at all times, I do not replace them in pairs. :o This is generally a no-no. n* You may get reduced capacity from them when there is an age difference greater than a year. But to me, in this application, I feel more comfortable when way back in the boonies.
For my regular cars I use a middle of the road to good quality (but not the premium best quality) standard lead acid battery. I do not buy "maintenance-free" batteries. I like to be able to check the fluid level and add water if and when necessary. I get the biggest that will fit and still be able to be secured in place. I tag them with a date 30 months down the road and replace it at that time. I'd buy an Optima for this purpose, but they cost more than a couple (or three) good standard batteries.
BTW, Optima's are also available under other names. Interstate is one. They may cost less.
Quote from: benevolance on January 21, 2008, 06:27:49 PM
i find interstate to be junk
In general that may or may not be. I dunno.
All I was pointing out is that I've been very pleased with Optima and that in the past 5 - 8 years they've been made available under other names, like Interstate. They are real Optimas, says so on the case under the Interstate label I peeled off. I just recycled the Interstate labeled Optimas I bought in January 2003. I bought them then because they had the best local price. This time I bought them from my local Desert Rat store on a sale.
Interstate isn't a manufacturer as far as I know. Optima is. Interstate does like many; the manufacturing is sourced out to their specs. Other than Optima, I have no brand loyalty when it comes to batteries. I look at a combination of capacity, size, availability, price.
Oh, one more thing... I believe it's better to but batteries from vendors who sell lots of them. Ditto on tires. In both cases you'll likely end up with a more recently manufactured battery or tire. They both start aging from date of manufacturer, not date of purchase, although you still get a full warranty from the purchase date.
And I noticed the other day that batteries took a price jump just recently. I've been tracking battery prices in expectation of buying new ones for the new cabin to be.
Glenn used to be able to get recycled batteries for $20 in Fresno, but the shop closed down. He just had to replace my Mercedes battery after 6 yrs - probably was the original - car is a 2000. It's a really big, heavy duty, low profile battery. He picked it up at Napa - don't know how good their batteries are... but after having a dead battery twice in the last month - once after working a 21 hr shift in ER, it was about time...
Thanks that was quick
Not trying to sand bag you guys but about the backhoe! :) My friend bought a Massey Ferguson backhoe used in 82 or so and was probably made in mid 70's. They had a short block installed at the time. He used it for an addition but not much. then his brother got it and used it for his house and an occasional job but again not much. The offered it to me for 1K. I thought I hit the jack pot it seemed like such a break out of nowhere. But what I missed was it hasn't been run for about 10 years or more, we were at a big October fest and it was early in the morning after many beers. I just found this out. I just assumed it was being used the guy has about 15 acres. Is this worth pursuing? If so should anything be done before trying to start it. Wouldn't the oil have drained off of most of the engine and down into the pan. I would need a battery to do it and thought why not get one for my car?
Mike
You about have to get it fired up to see what you have. You could very well need to replace most all of the hydraulic hoses after sitting that long and they will be fairly expensive. I have seen old Cat dozers brought back to life after sitting for long periods like that but it is only then that you get to see what is going to need repair. When you can swing the hoe around you will know how religiously it was greased when it was in use. The pins can take a lot of wear without being greased regularly.
thanks Desdawg
Makes sense. I'm not the best mechanic, I can take things apart and put them back together if I know whats wrong, but is there anything I can ruin or make worse before the oil gets to pumping and can I do anything first before trying to start it. Or is what ever is wrong already wrong and I wont make it worse. I guess I'm thinking of bearings and rings?
Mike
Check it out -- old machines can still do the work of the new ones - though maybe slower. Check fluids for cloudiness -- water in them -- oil in radiator -- low levels etc. Could be a real bargain. Do as desdawg says an check it well.
Is it gas or diesel?
If it's gas and I can get the plugs out I'd squirt some penetrating oil in each cylinder and let that soak for a little bit. Then crank it with no plugs in it. That'll get oil moving around. Of course make certain all fluid levels are up. Then replace the plugs and see if it'll go.
Must be a similar thing you can do with a diesel to keep it from firing right off. ???
And be prepared to shut it off if and when oil or something starts spurting from something; hoses, whatever. Then if it runs make sure the coolant is flowing.
A diesel may start and run or run away on any oil that is shot into a cylinder but you could loosen all injector lines as in priming to get a bit of crank time.
You could shut off the fuel to the engine but some of the injector pumps are fuel cooled and lubed so be careful with that one. If it has a fuel shutoff as it likely may, that should not be a problem. Just pull it out and crank a bit until oil pressure comes up a little.
I realized I called the Optima a gel cell battery. I misspoke. It's an AGM... has liquid acid absorbed in a special glass mat material. :-[
Thanks everyone
It's a diesal, 3 cylender, MF40? pertty sure think it is an industrial machine built on a MF2200 farm tractor but thats kind of confusing to me. So not so big but big enough. I helped my friend on the addition so saw it work and it was pretty amasing, I was used to seeing big machines but this was the little hoe that could.
I have never owned a Diesal.
Glen "A diesel may start and run or run away on any oil that is shot into a cylinder"? Not sure what you mean, did you mean that it might just fire up and i wouldn't want it to then because I would be trying to get the oil around in it first? "you could loosen all injector lines as in priming" If I do get some oil around and am ready to fire it up should I prime it , what about flooding can you do that with deisal? I guess you losen the intake to relieve pressure and make it easer to move fuel?
What about the fuel it's pretty old, and there could be a ton of it. Should I change it out. I heard you can burn it in your furnace?
I would need a battery so I was thinking about buying a new one for my car, I got a volvo to, peter. these guys wont buy one so I thought well if I don't get the hoe I could use the battery. But will I need a biger battery for the tractor. Could I just run jumpers over to there terminals or would it be better to hook it up?
It's about a hundred miles away so I can't just run over, and I'm going to wait till it warms up and I can get it out on the land. I have to get it down a pretty good hill, The first time I had it percked the guy almost flipped on wet leaves and he knew what he was doing so I don't want to try it in snow. Maybe If I get down that way I might take some pictures.
Well last week colors, last night smiles, and today I did that two window thing so I could read what you all wrote while writing myself ;D
Mike
PS Glen don't you be takin on that big fat one get a good rip ;)
I was saying, don't get or put oil in the intake manifold such as to lube the cylinders like you might do in a gas engine, because the oil is what fires from compression in a diesel and if it gets into the intake manifold it will enter the cylinders and cause a runaway -- the engine will be impossible to shut down without blocking the air intake or exploding or running out of the oil (fuel). Leave the fuel off if you want to crank up oil pressure. When the fuel is turned on it will spray diesel into the cylinders and lube them fine.
Changing the fuel out could be good- diesel can take on moisture, but I don't usually have much problem with year old diesel.
Take plenty of tools - jumpers - extra battery - starting fluid -use very sparingly so you don't blow the head off. Maybe 1/2 second squirt. May not be necessary.
MF parts - got a new catalog - check out www.stpusa.net
Wow, I thought I would read through this thread but it is massive! My husband is a mechanic with some fancy-shmancy modern certifications, but he really loves collecting odd and old cars. LOL He would love to do restoration for added income after we've gone mortgage-free, built a bit of a nest egg, gone off-grid, and are producing much of our own food. It'd be fun. Any of you experienced restoration guys willing to give some pointers or share your experiences as to how well it works for income? We're hoping to kill our expenses, so that should help immensly, and he's hoping to kill his "40+ hour work week".
He drove an R-5 Renault around Alaska for a great long time after we were first married. Liscence plate holder caption: "Half the power. Twice the style." He's particularly fond of Renaults and DKW's and has various types of both. If we finally buy land, build, and have money, I'm sure we'll be building a big 'ol shop shortly thereafter --bigger than the house, most likely! And his dad will be shipping up all the cars he's got lying around his place in OR up to sit around my place. I guess there's the incentive to let him build as big of a shop as he can --then I won't have to see the cars cluttering up my wooded lot! ;)
Quote from: mvk on January 22, 2008, 10:54:03 AM
PS Glen don't you be takin on that big fat one get a good rip ;)
I'll be exercising caution. [crz]
I have a couple cars your husband would like, akemt. A 1919 Dodge Brothers roadster and a 1926 Dodge Brothers sedan.
Partial restorations on both - original.
So akemt, will you build your house or shop first?
We have another place full of old vehicles, well drilling rigs, equip etc...
Heh, we've been thinking about that. Weather is an issue for building here, so we'd want it dried in ASAP. That means we'd want to pre-build in panels and pre-cut roof joists/beams, etc. For that we'd have to have a shop. LOL The question is whether we'd build a small shop first to later become a storage shed or just build a big garage and be done with that. I haven't been able to find garage plans on the site...suggestions there? Might do a pole barn?
Depending on the size you need, you could just build the house shell if big enough or you may need to go to something bigger. There are links to free barn plans here somewhere -- maybe in the free stuff. I'm sure we can find some.
I assume you have snow loads ther to consider. What size are you looking at?
Ken Kern recommended the shopfirst. Temp living quarters and a place to work in one.
Glen thanks for the advice I will keep you guys posted but probably wont be for awhile. Ever heard of mystery oil, and old biker told me to squirt some in the cylinders!
PS Glen don't you be takin on that big fat one get a good rip
but this was the little hoe that could.
Dont mean to offend anybody but couldn't resist after I read what I wrote
Mike
Marvel Mystery Oil
It's a thin penetrating type oil. Red in color. It's the type of thing I'd use to oil down the cylinders on a gad engine that had not been run for ten years.
But as Glenn pointed out using it in a diesel could be a problem as the cylinder compression on cranking would be high enough to heat the cylinder mix high enough to cause the oil to ignite. The engine could take off and rapidly run up speed until that oil is consumed. Could be a bad deal. Glenn may have some other ideas as to how to crank it around without damaging anything, while getting the oil to circulate. That's all I know.
I had a thought the other day about the battery. Does this unit have a 12 volt system? The only diesel I ever had was 24 volt for the starter and 12 volt for everything else.
Series parallel setup, eh? Don. They could be a real pain.
On the tractor, I'm pretty sure the Massey has a manual pull shutoff so if it is pulled out you can crank until engine oil pressure comes up -- or block the air intake, but if cool enough I doubt it will fire without a bit of cranking anyway. If nothing else crack all the injector lines loose and it won't take off until you tighten a couple at least. The fuel will lube the cylinders as it is cranked.
As Don mentioned -- if it has enough compression to fire diesel, it will likely run away uncontrolled on Marvel.
Any kind of oil will cause a runaway. The injectors meter it to prevent that. Poured in oil can't be controlled. Old Detroit diesels were famous for runaways but under the right conditions any could do it.
Viktor Schreckengost died recently. :( (June 26, 1906 – January 26, 2008) Victor who, you say. Why the inventor of the cab over engine truck of course. ;D
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/1934Whitetruck.jpg)
1934 White cab over engine cab/chassis
He designed the first cab over engine truck for the White Motor Company in the 1930's. It allowed more of the truck length to be used for carrying cargo and is credited with making more money for truckers in during the depression because of this.
He designed bicycles for the Murray Bicycle company and also worked for several dinnerware companies, prosthetics, and industrial products.
I moved to CA in a White Milk Truck pulling an old Pontiac.
What kind of a white truck was pulling that Pontiac?
It was a White PDQ Step Van - Insulated Fiberglass body - found one reference - no pix saying 1960 to 66 rare.
Ours had a Continental 6 in it I think.
Ok it had a continental... like the spare tire on the rear bumper?
But was it a white Ford, or a white Chevy, or ....??
;D ;D ;D rofl rofl rofl
who's on first?
Ya' know, Googling white truck doesn't always bring up what you want...
I've always liked this model of White Motor Company truck...
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/white3000a.jpg)
...which made me think of the White Buses that were used in Yellowstone and are still used in Glacier National Park today. Today's buses are mere shells of their former selves... late model Ford F450 chassis and V-8's that run either propane or gasoline.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/1930s-White-GNP-Red-Bus-SA-1280x960.jpg)
Yup -
White Motor Company. PDQ -- pretty damn quick -- had stand up controls or a seat and I operated it standing up when delivering milk for my dad. I did that off and on for a few years some before I was the driver too -- he had a bread route earlier. We also had a Divco step van. Looked kinda like this but Turquoise and White. (But not a White.)
(http://www.divco.org/_borders/joetrk2gif.gif)
:) sorta like this one...
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/divco-custom.jpg)
Thats a cool one. The one we had was a little bigger but still had the same general look.
Wonder if that thing will burn out?
I don't recall the specifics with certainty, but I think it had a big block Chevy... something like a 502 crate motor. So yeah, I think it would burn out :) :)
... another shorty...
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/divco-custom2.jpg)
... long wheelbase & chopped...
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/divco024.jpg)
... another long wheelbase, chopped...
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/p147090_image_large.jpg)
Note the "crank" hole at the bottom of the grill. Have you ever hand cranked a vehicle to get it going? I did once in Europe with an old Bedford van I owned over there.
There's a story behind the yellow chop job. The guy had it in his driveway or beside the driveway for years. It was all rusty and derelict looking. Neighbors complained and the city cited him for having a nuisance and declared he had to get rid of it. He had 72 hours to act. He went down to his Ace Hardware (?) and bought a recipro saw. He cut the roof off so he could get the formerly 10 foot tall body inside the garage. hence the chop. ;D
late 50's early 60's British camper van. Bedford Dormobile, much like the one I had for a year.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/BedfordCADormob.jpg)
Sliding doors; you could drive with them open. Nice on a warm sunny day. :)
Interesting stuff. I want one of those milk trucks. Or the camper van. pretty much anything actually...
I now have a '95 Saturn SL that needs a new, very short owner. A tree fell on it last Thursday night and it's kinda squished. It's hard to look for a car when you live in the woods and are at the mercy of neighbors for a ride to town.
You guys come up with far more interesting vehicles than I find.
Seems we made the Divco into a camper for awhile, although as I recall, it was the Oregon redneck model
Man I got lucky. It took less than 5 minutes to find this transparency in the old slide files. :o I'm amazed. Thanks to K for cataloging years ago.
Here's my old Bedford camper.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/bedford-yugoslavia.jpg)
This is a very frosty north Yugoslavian morning in January '73. It was up in the mountains and so cold it froze our water jugs. Also froze the radiator. Luckily not a hard enough freeze to do damage; just cold enough to keep the coolant from circulating. Cold enough to make the Camping Gaz not want to turn gaseous for the stove. Cold enough to keep the top down and sleep in the less comfortable seats converted to beds.
I had to build a fire and use a couple found cans from a roadside dump to melt snow, heat the water and then use it to pour down over the outside of the radiator to melt a coolant flow path.
Later got a quart of antifreeze to add to the system. I did not know the language at all but found that walking into the first auto parts store and blurting out "anti freeze" worked.
What did the Bedford have for power? I'm guessing it was smallish by American standards.
Power? It didn't have any power. ;D
It had a lowly stressed 1500 cc four cylinder engine. Petrol burner. Not sure what the HP was. :-\ At least it had OHV. Single downdraft carb. 3 speed tranny. Steering on the right of course. 15 inch wheels... I remember as I had to buy 2 tires on the continent, one in France, the other in Greece. It was not too big a problem finding the right size.
I don't think it went 55 MPH ever, while I owned it. Usually cruised at 45 max, IIRC. Bought it cheap, drove 15000 miles, sold it cheaper.
It was a good thing we were seldom, if ever, in a hurry. ;D
Do you remember what kind of fuel mileage it got with that small engine.
Hey Don is that the Bedford smoking or is tht the campfire to melt the ice. Also I hope that is a curtain in the front window and not frost.
Now you're really testing my memory, John C! ??? I'm not that good, so I dug out the trip journal. :)
First of all, let me correct the location of that photo. It was southern Yugoslavia, nearing northern Greece, January 14, 1973. [My first recollection on entering Greece was more or less "Crap, the road signs are all Greek to me!" I had a map with English spellings; the signs were in real Greel characters... hard to match the two.)
I owned the Bedford for 15,433 miles. Overall mileage during the ownership was 27.5 MPG. Average cost of gasoline $1.18 per gallon, from a low of 0.65 in Bulgaria to a high of $1.30 in Belgium. Best mileage figure I have noted is 33 MPG in Belgium and The Netherlands (flat, flat, flat). The trip included lots of mountainous terrain including the through the Pyrennes twice and the Alps.
Those figures are for Imperial gallons (UK) which are about 20% larger (140 ounce gallons instead of 128 ounce).
I bought 2 tires ($31 for one, $36 for the second) and misc. parts or repairs for a total of $70.95. (A u-joint replaced for $5, labor included, 0.12 for a light bulb.)
John (redoverfarm). That's exhaust from a cold engine. The fire was off to the left. That thing had a manual choke too. The white across the front is frost on the inside of the windscreen (British term) That's a hole I scraped to see if there was snow outside. I started the engine from under the blankets and watched the temp gauge head for the high end because of the frozen radiator. The curtain is pushed aside and can be discerned through the frost on the left side of the van, right side of the picture. It was very cold, likely the coldest we experienced on that trip.
Further trivial note of interest... The continent drives on the right side of the road like we do, whereas the UK drives on the left side of the road. To save on having to replace the headlights I bought those yellow covers. They had fluting or prism like ridges on the inside face to bend the light rays to the other side of the road.
Even adjusting for the Imp. gallon that seems like very good mileage. The US equivalent, a V-8 van based camper wouldn't do as well.
Quote from: John C on February 05, 2008, 11:12:02 PM
Even adjusting for the Imp. gallon that seems like very good mileage.
I believe a good portion of that was due to the leisurely low average speed of travel. It wouldn't go all that fast even thrashing it through the gears. So, I took the laid back, low speed approach.
I can't begin to recount how many times here I've started out in the RV with great intentions of traveling at moderate rates of speed. Then I end up nudging the cruise control up a little, then a little more. Soon I'd be going 65 MPH and pushing a whole lot of air with the squared off front. That tendency has a lot to do with the greater distances to be traveled, especially in the southwest US, IMO.
Interesting article. BMW is considering a redesign of the Isetta of the 50's.
(http://www.blogsmithmedia.com/www.autobloggreen.com/media/2008/02/isetta_photo_231687_5_opt.jpg)
http://www.autobloggreen.com/2008/02/03/bmw-to-challenge-smart-with-isetta-brand/ (http://www.autobloggreen.com/2008/02/03/bmw-to-challenge-smart-with-isetta-brand/)
Interesting. Looks pretty aero.
Here is another concept car. An update of the venerable Citroen 2cv
(http://conneely-studio.com/images/citroen_2cv.jpg)
(http://conneely-studio.com/images/citroen_2cv-concept.jpg)
I like the evolution of the successful older cars. Either of these is a huge improvement over the Smart car.
Here is an original Isetta. I'm always amused by this pic. I try to picture one of these chasing speeders. I guess that's where the "What a Drag" version that Don posted would be useful.
(http://conneely-studio.com/images/BMW-Isetta_police.jpg)
My Bedford someplace in the French countryside.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/Untitled-1.jpg)
French countryside, that's the hook back to the 2CV. I had a ride in one once, driven by a drunk Spanish Civil Guard policeman. At the time they were run by the Spanish Army and looked quite fierce in their black leathers on a BMW motorcycle with an automatic weapon of some sort across their back. This guy befriended us and took us to a few Spanish village drinking holes. The 2CV had very soft suspension, with mechanical, not hydraulic, dampers. They kinds wallowed down the road. It seemed very funny somehow careening down dark narrow twisty roads in the hills. I recall thinking it was like a riding in a boat. I was in the rear, no seats, no nothing.
35 years ago and I still didn't have any hair on top. :)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/Untitled-3.jpg)
Interior, looking forward. The seats could all be slid sideways towards the middle or back out to the sides.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/interiorforward.jpg)
The seats folded down to form beds. As they aged and the mechanism wore they became "lumpy".
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/interiorbedsdown.jpg)
Looking up. The assemblies on either side of the cut out in the steel roof, unfolded into cots. They were comfy enough but brutally cold in the cold weather. We didn't have enough blankets, sleeping bags, or pads to properly insulate the bottom side of the cot very well.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/interiorroofraised.jpg)
pictures are of another but very similar to my old one
Still pretty cool.
It was "home" for nearly 10 months. Way under 200 sq. ft. ;D
QuoteThe 2CV had very soft suspension, with mechanical, not hydraulic, dampers.
The design parameters were that it should carry a farmer to market across a plowed field and not break any eggs in a basket on the back seat.
Love the camper. Wouldn't mind having a camper that got ~ 25 mpg.
We don't even have anything small enough to base one on. d*
Looks like fun, Don! I had a friend who traveled Europe for 6 mo's after she got out of highschool - had relatives in Sweden; then a couple years later she traveled throughout South American for 6 mo's. Always wished I'd been more adventurous back then... That camper looks pretty comfy - I remember driving my station wagon (my dad had bought for my sister & me to drive) there were 5 or 6 of my girlfriends & I who went to Yosemite camping. There were 4 of us squeezed into the back of the wagon - I don't think I was able to sleep at all - too uncomfortable.
Glenn was wondering if the pic was of "Peter, Paul & Mary"? ;D
Three Musketeers, Don, Gail & Alma
It had a stove, small oven, small sink, water tank, some drawers and cupboard space, even a small short hanging wardrobe, curtains...
I was thinking of the era. Nice threads, dude.
I lived on a 27' sailboat for 9 years. Except for times when I was delivering someone else's boat my living space was 7-1/2' wide by 16' long. Of course you spent a lot of time on deck and could set up a table in the cockpit to entertain groups of 6 or so. I never had to spend a winter aboard in a cold climate, so it was actually quite pleasant. If we were in an anchorage somewher we might raft several boats together or have a get together on the beach.
Tundra Buggy?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=afJ18eJeNgU&NR=1
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/tundrabuggy.jpg)
That would be some very strange tracks left behind in the dirt. Not too good for paved roads. ;D
Russian trucks. The drivers were having fun!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlYjae7uSoQ&NR=1
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/kamaz01.jpg)
Steam Power. 1925 Doble. I'd never heard of Doble but apparently they were superbly engineered steam machines. Too much so, they only made about 40. This video is from Jay Leno's Garage (http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/). Look for the 1925 Doble feature. It could be fired from cold state and moving in approx. 2 minutes.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/doblesteam.jpg)
I got a bit detained at the Czech boys 4x - 6x -8x trials.
These guys know how to have fun.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vVuubGNEcCI
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/Czech4x.jpg)
Glenn I wonder if the tracks from the Tundra Buggy could be mistaken for a sidewinder in the desert. How did this thing operate. Opposite rotations to the center or outside. I bet it has a hefty sterring mech. Maybe steering clutches on each side similar to a dozer.
I think so -- I read a few comments - I think they could stop or counter rotate either side.
They said it goes anywhere but pavement.
I watched the Doble. Cool old car. He mentioned a compound engine so after the steam pushed down the first piston with high pressure it went to one that was about twice as big then continued to push as it's pressure dropped toward atmospheric pressure. Good system.
Big trucks playing in the dirt is just fine, ;but going fast... real fast, up Pie's Peak in a car is crazy! But crazy fun!
http://youtube.com/watch?v=zqaaf5BqJ3M&feature=related
I could do without the first 1:02 [1 minute 2 seconds], but from there on it's a blast.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/pikespeak-peugeot.jpg)
It's a Peugeot 405, 1988
So I believe I read someplace a while back that the Smart Car For Four model was being discontinued. The For Two model is still being made.
Some people find the power insufficient and others have expressed worries about how the Smart Car will survive a crash. Here's a prototype that may resolve both issues at once...
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/smartcarforfun.jpg)
Does anybody have any idea/info about this car?
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/oddcar.jpg)
...seems like I've seen it someplace before? ???
Umm.... ??? That would be a Stout Scarab. From a design mind with similar proclivities as Buckminster Fuller and Preston Tucker.
Info here http://barista.media2.org/?p=3063 (http://barista.media2.org/?p=3063)
added another link
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stout_Scarab (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stout_Scarab)
Thank you John C! :)
I knew it wasn't Bucky or Tucker, but there was a certain magical similarity. Great minds
Looks like front wheel drive -- mud tires on the front...or is that the back? ??? ;D
Stout Scarab Video (http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-6231739651547974300&q=stout+scarab&total=1&start=0&num=10&so=0&type=search&plindex=0)
OR HERE (http://youtube.com/watch?v=qYRpzdjENWQ), avoiding google.
OK -- back engine back wheel drive --Ford flathead. Cool car.
A one of a kind prototype, the 1950 Martin Stationette. At first glance it appeared to be an Isetta Woodie.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/1950martin-staionette.jpg)
The Martin Stationette is the final car produced by James V. Martin. Martin was a prolific inventor who spent years designing cars that he hoped that someday would be adopted and produced by a major manufacturer. This three-wheeled car was built with wooden monocoque construction and was powered by a motorcycle engine. It featured no axels, shock obsorbers, or propeller shaft all of which Martin believed would make the car much cheaper to manufacture.
The Stationette was designed to be a suburban commuter that, due to it's small size, would help to reduce auto congestion in urban areas.
The Stationette was shown at the 1954 World Motor Sports Show and offered as "America's Economy Car of the Future." Martin failed to sell the car to a potential manufacturer. This car remains a one-off prototype.
Sexy looking car...
1937 Delahaye Type 145 Chapron
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/1937DelahayeTyoe145Chapron.jpg)
This is a Delahaye Type 145 with bodywork by Chapron and a 4.5-liter V12. This car was known as the 'Million Franc Car.' Two slightly different Delahaye Chapron Coupes were manufactured.
In the late 1930s, the French government, offered a million-franc prize to the manufacturer who made the car that could best compete on the international circuit versus the likes of Mercedes-Benz and Alfa Romeo. French designer/engineer Jean-Francois took on the challenge and mounted three low gear-driven camshafts to operate inclined valves via pushrods. The result was a light engine that powered a Delahaye that was twice as powerful as its German and Italian competitors.
This car, the non-racing Type 145 GT Coupe, remains a favorite of sports car enthusiast and collectors who love the fusion of power and elegance.
from the sexy to the strange & weird...
1974 Fascination 2 door
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/1974Fascination.jpg)
The Fascination was created by Paul M. Lewis, the creator of the Airomobile, current on display in the National Automobile Museum (The Harrah Collection).
The first Fascination was built in the late 1960s in Denver, Colorado. Three cars were built in Sidney, Nebraska; the first Sidney car, powered by a four-cylinder engine, is the one in this photo.
A total of five cars were built; all have survived and are owned by two individuals.
Quote from: MountainDon on March 18, 2008, 08:12:46 PM
Sexy looking car...
1937 Delahaye Type 145 Chapron
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/1937DelahayeTyoe145Chapron.jpg)
This is a Delahaye Type 145 with bodywork by Chapron and a 4.5-liter V12. This car was known as the 'Million Franc Car.' Two slightly different Delahaye Chapron Coupes were manufactured.
In the late 1930s, the French government, offered a million-franc prize to the manufacturer who made the car that could best compete on the international circuit versus the likes of Mercedes-Benz and Alfa Romeo. French designer/engineer Jean-Francois took on the challenge and mounted three low gear-driven camshafts to operate inclined valves via pushrods. The result was a light engine that powered a Delahaye that was twice as powerful as its German and Italian competitors.
This car, the non-racing Type 145 GT Coupe, remains a favorite of sports car enthusiast and collectors who love the fusion of power and elegance.
Now, I could go for that car 8)
Sassy, do you look good in red?
50's Jaguar XK120 Fixed Head Coupe, my favorite Jag of all time.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/Jaguar-XK120-Fixed-Head-Coupe-red-f.jpg)
fixed headcoupe = British for "hardtop" vs. drophead coupe = "convertible"
That's another one I wouldn't mind having.. ::) back in highschool, a friend took me for a ride in a yellow Jaguar XKE convertable - 1960 something... he got it up to the 130's out on a country road... that was fun :)
Glenn took my dad for a ride in his twin turbo Stealth a few years ago - got it up to 125 mph - my dad told Glenn "I think that's the fastest I've ever been on the ground." He flew many different planes in the Air Force from 1943 - 1971...
[cool]
Quote50's Jaguar XK120 Fixed Head Coupe
[cool]
We need a .wav file........ muffled roar of approval.
A genuine example of an early hot rod. 1932 Ford Roadster.
The real deal with a 4-71 blown Ardun head flathead block, Halibrand quick change differential and original Halibrand Magnesium wheels ,Hilborn 2-port fuel injection, Joe Hunt Magneto, all steel body, Duvall windshield, baby Moon tank and many other vintage speed parts. And it's completely owner built.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/1932FordHotRodoldstuff.jpg)
Here's Henry Ford's original 1902 Ford Racer, #999.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/1902Ford999.jpg)
Although it was not America's first race car, it may have been the first to attain a legendary status. Driven by Barney Oldfield, the Ford 999 won the Manufacturer's Challenge Cup in 1902. The win gave Ford the credibility and publicity needed to advance his car company into a major manufacturer. Oldfield, by the way, was a bicycle racer who had never driven an automobile before he drove 999 in an earlier race. The 999 was named after a famous New York Central locomotive.
The Twin of the 999 was another racer named the Arrow. On January 12, 1904. Henry Ford himself drove the Arrow to a new world land speed record of 91.4 mph. Both the 999 and the Arrow were built by Henry Ford, assisted by C.H. Willis and E.S. Huff, with financial backing by Thomas Cooper.
The 999 is a minimalistic car with no body, no hood, and rides on a wood chassis. The car has an 18.8 liter, inline 4-cylinder engine worthy of approximately 50 hp. The car cost $5000 to produce – a considerable sum in 1902.
This car is now owned by the Henry Ford Museum in Dearborn, MI.
QuoteThe car has an 18.8 liter, inline 4-cylinder engine
4.7 L per cylinder YEE-HAW
Remember the old hot rod adage; Ya' can't beat cubic inches.
Unless it's with cubic money.
Makes one wonder what the vibration level was like
I don't think vibration would be as much as a concern as the "soap box derby" sterring linkage at 90+ MPH. Do you pull on the right to go right or push on the right to go left?
You do both. Think of that as a vertical steering column that needs a very big wheel on top. The wheel would be too big to be practical. You apparently needed a lot of leverage to turn the beast. So there's a bar across the top with two handles. From what I read a few years back you had to wrestle the steering, pull left and push right to make the car steer left.
That engine must have weighed a tad more than the typical 4 cylinder of today. :o
It just needed power steering ::)
Jay Leno's Garage (http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/) has added a video featuring his 1925 Ford Model T Roadster.
Note: 2008 is the 100th Anniversary of the introduction of the Model T Ford. The actual date is October 1.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/model-t-1908.jpg)
WEBSITE (http://www.tparty2008.com/)
The first 1908 Model T's sold for $825. $575 in 1912, $99 in 1914, climbing again to $250 in 1925.
This is one of the strangest project cars I can remember encountering.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/transportation/splinter.jpg)
From the website http://www.joeharmondesign.com/index.html , their Mission Statement...
We aren't really all about mission statements around here; too often, they are phony and superfluous. That said, here is ours. We are building a high-performance, mid-engined supercar from wood composites as a graduate project at North Carolina State University. Wood will be used wherever possible, including the chassis, body, and large percentages of the suspension components and wheels. The car has a target weight of 2500lbs and a power goal of over 600 horsepower. We aren't trying to sell anything; we aren't trying to save the world, and we aren't advocating that everyone should drive a wooden car. This project is a scholastic endeavor in which are simply trying to explore materials, learn, teach, share ideas, and stimulate creativity. This section details who we are and what we are doing. We hope you enjoy checking out what we are working on.
A WOOD Supercar!!! With a laminated wood (osage orange) spring front and rear! Wooden suspension control arms! A 600+ hp modified Northstar V8 (Cadillac)!
If it wasn't for all the photos and the live webcams showing people going about building the thing, I'd say it was a joke or a hoax.
I honestly don't know what to think? [crz]
I'm not sure that... well I'm just not sure...
Maybe it is a joke, sorta. [crz]
Osage orange is a good choice -- harder (and tougher) than the back of my head, prized for good hunting bows by the Osage Native Americans and current hunters and bow makers.
THAT is why they picked it. It's a multilayer laminate.
Still [crz]
We have 2 trees down the road from us. I found out they were Osage Orange when I googled - "green fruit looks like a brain".
I read of a bow blank maker having 8 wedges stuck in a short bow length log and it still had not split open, They split the log in pie shape blanks I think to make bows from.
This guys car looked like it had been through the crusher with him inside.
FORT WORTH, Texas (AP)—NASCAR Sprint Cup rookie Michael McDowell walked away virtually unscathed from a horrific tumbling crash during qualifying Friday at Texas Motor Speedway.
McDowell was going into the first turn of his second lap when his No. 00 Toyota got loose, then slammed almost headfirst into the SAFER (Steel and Foam Energy Reduction) barrier. The car ricocheted off the wall and onto its roof, then rolled at least eight times before finally coming to rest at the bottom of the high-banked track.
As he got out of the crumbled car, McDowell waved to the crowd indicating that he was OK.
"I feel great, nothing broke," McDowell said. "I didn't lose consciousness. I felt every roll down the hill."
McDowell said he had "few little bumps and bruises," but was fine other than that.
While McDowell said he didn't know what happened, he said something "didn't quite feel right" on the car when he came out of fourth turn on the first lap.
"For me to walk away from that wreck is unbelievable," McDowell said. "I'm going to count by blessings tonight and thank God for this opportunity to walk away from that wreck."
Car owner Michael Waltrip had some anxious moments waiting for McDowell to get out of the car.
"Just from the time it stopped flipping until we saw Michael come out, it seemed like forever," Waltrip said. "That was an amazing crash."
Qualifying was delayed for more than an hour while track officials made temporary repairs to the wall. After qualifying, a 20-foot section of the SAFER barrier was replaced.
"With the initial hit and everything that happened after, I'm real happy he walked away," said Carl Edwards, who qualified second in a run before McDowell's accident. "I'm surprised he's not hurt in any way. That's a testament to the safety equipment."
McDowell made his Cup debut last week at Martinsville. A developmental driver for Michael Waltrip Racing, he was promoted to the Cup level to fill a hole in the lineup created when Dale Jarrett retired.
The 23-year-old McDowell had a decent run—he finished 26th—but drew the ire of several veterans for not moving out of the way and holding them up. McDowell has just four career starts in the Nationwide Series, and most of his experience is in ARCA.
Based on owner points, McDowell will start 40th in the backup car for the Samsung 400 on Sunday.
McDowell appeared to be slightly limping when he first got out of the car, but he said he felt better after walking around a bit. He said he was aware of what was going on while his car tumbled down the track.
"I should have, but I didn't close my eyes. I just kind of rode it out," he said. "It wasn't a fun ride, that's for sure. I stand here with a smile on my face because I'm fortunate."
Da video
http://youtube.com/watch?v=N4oSZIm3YAw
Ain't youtube wonderful
(https://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e44/kathykrn/ScreenShot017.jpg)
"Well here's a shock: a good looking British sports car (sorry Lotus). This is the Lightning GT, and instead of guzzling super unleaded it creates 700 horsepower using batteries."
http://editorial.autos.msn.com/article.aspx?cp-documentid=567196&topart=sports
[cool] Wow! Wonder what size a fuse you need on that. Or I guess a circuit breaker.
That is a nice looking car.
So what is in store for the next generation of hot-rodder? Overamping electric motors?
I guess... I have a friend who's a golf nut as well as a gearhead. He has what he claims is the fastest gold cart in the area. There are high performance electric motors, controllers and everything else available.
There are also custom bodies available; entire custom carts for that matter.
(http://www.streetrodproductions.com/images/kart_290a.jpg)
Google "hot rod golf carts".
That is pretty fancy. I never got into cow pasture pool so I guess I missed out on an entire evoulution.
Quote from: desdawg on August 10, 2008, 10:47:03 AM
I never got into cow pasture pool...
Me neither, but I like the hot rod carts. :)
??? On second thought I like just about anything that's been hot rodded. ;D
The only American-born Formula One champion, Phil Hill, died Thursday, August 28 of complications from Parkinson's disease. He was 81.
(http://www.latimes.com/media/photo/2008-08/41908056.jpg)
Phil Hill in his 1961 Ferrari championship car at the Belgian Grand Prix.
Hill won the 1961 Formula One title for Ferrari, as well as the first American to win the 24-hour at Le Mans—a three time winner in all. He also won the Sebring 12-hour race three times. "I had an amazing amount of luck to race for 22 years and not a drop of blood or a broken bone," Hill once said. "Maybe I wasn't trying hard enough."
More story here... http://www.latimes.com/sports/la-me-hill29-2008aug29,0,5179464.story?track=rss
A Chevy Motorcycle
(http://www.bosshoss.com/images/BIKES_TRIKES/BHC9LS2/BHC9LS2_1.jpg)
(http://www.bosshoss.com/images/BIKES_TRIKES/BHC9ZZ4/BHC9ZZ4_11.jpg)
(http://www.bosshoss.com/images/BIKES_TRIKES/BHC3LS2/BHC3LS2_1.jpg)
Get yours here... http://www.bosshoss.com/products.asp
Stainless Steel Fords
Thanks to redoverfarm. John I'd never seen these before. Cool!
In 1935, officials at Allegheny Ludlum Steel Division and the Ford Motor Company collaborated on an experiment that would become a legacy and a tribute to one of the most dynamic metals ever developed.
Allegheny Ludlum, a pioneer producer of stainless steel, proposed the idea of creating a stainless steel car to Ford. The idea took shape in the form of a 1936 Deluxe Sedan. That car became the centerpiece of a campaign to expose the public to the new metal and its many uses.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/vehicles/ATT00025.jpg)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/vehicles/ATT00028.jpg)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/vehicles/ATT00019.jpg)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/vehicles/ATT00022.jpg)
Six of the 1936 models were made, 4 exist today. In 1960 two Thunderbirds were made and in 1967 three Lincoln Continental convertibles were made.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/vehicles/1car.gif)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/vehicles/2car.gif)
Allegheny Ludlum website with more info...
http://www.alleghenyludlum.com/pages/companyinfo/stainlesscars.asp
A video of an Electric Drag Racer - from John (Redover Farm)
http://www.opb.org/programs/ofg/videos/view/56-Electric-Drag-Racing
Quote from: glenn-k on February 22, 2007, 03:33:04 AM
Now that there is a place for this stuff, here is a cool video my SIL sent me -- I don't know who or where but still cool.
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/th_hillclimb.jpg) (https://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/?action=view¤t=hillclimb.flv)
ISlandic Hill climbers there is no trick photography these guys are just plain NUTS
Quote from: glenn kangiser on November 22, 2008, 12:51:25 PM
A video of an Electric Drag Racer - from John (Redover Farm)
Yep. Full torque right from zero revs on up.
I betcha the cables from the batteries to the motor get a little bit warm. :) Love the electric drag bike too.
My high school physics teacher said an electric vehicle could out accelerate a Corvette. He was considered to be a little off center... just a man ahead of the rest.
It's really amazing to me.
Two identical generators can be synchronized to make one of twice the capacity.
They must be phased correctly or....pieces of shrapnel will be going everywhere. There is a way to do it. Don't think I want to try it though.
That wooden supercar is something else. Was talking to a guy at the local Woodcraft store about hot rods, and he walks me over to the mag rack and shows me this. "Get the &^%$ outa here!" Pretty cool. Osage orange is seriously strong, and a great choice for this kind of thing.
Glenn, I was reading about bowmaking one time. They cut wedge shaped blanks (or split them), because the bow can then have heartwood, and sapwood in the same piece. The heartwood is harder, and so it reflexes, it goes on the side without the string, the sapwood is flexible (orientation may be backward).
Not trying to cause a drift, just thought it was interesting. Here is the roadster I built from scratch years ago. 1929 Ford, started with the cowl, fabricated everything else (frame and body), used lots of junkyard, dumpster, and traded parts.
(https://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc93/hobbiest/Roadster.jpg)
(https://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc93/hobbiest/Roadster3.jpg)
Started this one from refuse a coupla years ago. Never finished it, unfortunately.
(https://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc93/hobbiest/frankenrod5-04.jpg)
(https://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc93/hobbiest/frankenrod5-22-04.jpg)
Way [cool]
Those would be what are referred to as Rat Rods. I've grown to really like them. I've always wanted a traditional American Hot Rod roadster. So impractical in so many parts of the country, but so cool.
Here's an odd one I ran across recently... (on the internet, not in person)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/vehicles/wmr-044.jpg)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/vehicles/ratrod.jpg)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/vehicles/rat_rod1.jpg)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/vehicles/DSC08865-vi.jpg)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/vehicles/hcrat1jpg_00000005975.jpg)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/vehicles/RatRod071.jpg)
That A/G one is great.
I tried to find more on it, but came up dry. :(
Quote from: glenn kangiser on January 02, 2009, 09:44:51 PM
That A/G one is great.
Reminds me of the sedan my friend Shane was building in Pioneer, CA (just up a ways from you), except his was a Tudor 30, not a Fordor 29.
Was going for a refined Rat Rod effect on my 29, but never got that far along with it! Was going to have nice Black Pearl paint job. I met Larry Watson, and he gave me his phone number to call him and he would give me the actual recipe for the black pearl he used to spray in the '60's
Inspired by a post on another topic I dug back and found these pictures.
Anyone who has ever hot rodded an engine may have used one od Ed Iskenderian's camshafts. Ed was known as the Camfather. The first performance cam I ever bought was an Isky. I was so pleased with it I only ever bought one other brand, a Crane, because I couldn't get an Isky grind when I wanted a cam for a bike I was working on.
Anyhow one of the most well known old hot rods was Ed's 1924 Model T. He began his cam grinding career welding and regrinding cams to make it go faster. The car still exists today in the same configuration and condition from the 1940's. It can be seen at the NHRA museum in Pomona, CA. It's a non restored original, probably the oldest existing Hot Rod.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/vehicles/0008sr_36Miles01_z.jpg)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/vehicles/0804sr_08_z1924_ford_model_t_roadst.jpg)
That engine is a '32 Ford V8 with a set of maxi OHV conversion heads.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/vehicles/0804sr_04_z1924_ford_model_t_roadst.jpg)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/vehicles/0008sr_36Miles02_z.jpg)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/vehicles/0804sr_09_z1924_ford_model_t_roadst.jpg)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/vehicles/0804sr_11_z1924_ford_model_t_roadst.jpg)
The car went 120 mph before WW2 and faster after.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/vehicles/0008sr_36Miles10_z.jpg)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/vehicles/0804sr_10_z1924_ford_model_t_roadst.jpg)
The business still grinds cams. Ed still smokes cigars.
ED is probably one of the more prolific collectors of reusable vehicles and vehicle components. He has several acres worth of old stuff he has collected over the decades in Gardena.
Don I looked for this thread to post the video but didn't find it so i went to the best next thing that I could. It was getting late. You can move if you like.
I'll just paste in the info from your post under Cars and leave it over there as well with a link here. Easier than moving.
A few from the good ole days.
http://thefiftiesandsixties.com/CarsWeDrove.htm
I have many topics like this one in my notification list, in order to track responses on topics I want to be ablr to find. Of course that means you get an email when new posts appear. If the emails is a bother one wishes to avoid you could also make a special bookmarks/favorits folder for CP topics and save the topics to there.
I love the Isky T. I saw it at the 50th GNRS, awesome.
check this out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=369h-SEBXd8
Wow Don I never knew you..... well never mind..... [cool]
I ran in to an add the other day for Honest Charley's Speed Shop. And I was assured I can still buy a rod from the frame up from the catalog. I figured it was a thing of the past.
www.honestcharley.com/
Now you say Ed Iskenderian's Company is still grinding cams, and he is still smoking cigars.
With all these old gear heads popping up suddenly I had to check it out to see for sure if Garlits and the old Swamp Rat with Tommy Ivo and the Showboat was not making a tour with Tom McEwen and Don Prudhomme to a local strip near by this coming spring.....
Yep Rick, a lot of familiar names that bring back lots of old memories. :) :)
Garlits, Prudhomme and Ivo are still alive I believe. Not sure about the Mongoose though. Our regional heroes were Tom Hoover and Doc Holliday who ran out of Minnesota. Hoovers AA fuel dragster was the irst one I ever saw with reverse gear. That was a real surprise. At the time I was an assistant line man and our main job was to drag them back to the start line ater their burnout. Hoover did a big burnout and let himsel roll way down the track. Three os us looked at each other and said WTF!. Everyone else would slam on the brakes to make the job easier. Anyhow we ran off to get the car and the next thing we knew he was backing up. :o
I had a friend in high school was a distant relative of Honest Charley hisself. :D
Those were the days, although I was split between drag racing and sports car road racing. [crz]
Thanks or reviving the memories. :) :) :)
How about Dean Moon and mooneyes...... and moon discs..... baby moons.....
look at all the flathead goodies at honest charley's
Hey Don... one of the pix above of the driver's seat is odd. It seems to be either missing a clutch or a brake. Unless the thing was just running WOT all the time :)
Good eye Frank. Those 2 pedals go through the floor like a clutch and brake would so the gas pedal is missing. ???
Quote from: NM_Shooter on December 02, 2009, 10:14:53 AM
Hey Don... one of the pix above of the driver's seat is odd. It seems to be either missing a clutch or a brake. Unless the thing was just running WOT all the time :)
I noticed that too, but just thought it was because I'm not that "car savvy" ;D
Anybody ever see this video? Pretty amazing...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WfxwTUCaocA&feature=player_embedded
Yep, he's a lucky guy!!!
It appears that the right front tire completed the 1/4 mile in 10.69, and the drivers seat made it in 10.80.
Not bad for a normally aspirated piece of upholstery.
I was reading about this car today. What an amazing build.
http://www.mat.fi/project1929fordmodel-a.htm (http://www.mat.fi/project1929fordmodel-a.htm)
And a video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFSGSL3Nrmc (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFSGSL3Nrmc)
Not sure whether this has been posted before but here it is anyway. Some will remember and others just wish.
http://cruzintheavenue.com/CarsWeDrove.htm
Just spotted this thread...my brother recently re-purchased his first car, a 1966 Chevelle SS (true 138 car). It only took him like 30 years to do it! He just dropped a ZZ502 and 6 speed Tremac tranny in. To say it is fast is an understatement. Part of the "break in" straight from Chevy was to get into the motor pretty hard, in short bursts. Think approaching redline. This was difficult as 1/2 throttle scared the crap out of us! Then , where does one find a suitable road for such? (well, in California anyway) the freeway onramps were the best we could do. Tough watching my older brother having a mid life crisis, but after he rebuilt a large home in Cali on just weekends for the last 5 years he owed himself a toy. It sounds amazing, runs like a new car and that crate motor came with a warranty. It's a 1966, but it's also a new car.
There was a local free hot rod show in the park today. I took a walk around. There were a couple hundred vehicles. This was one of my favorites.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/vehicles/1953COE_Chevy.jpg)
1953 Chevy COE. 500 cu in Caddy engine with front wheel drive, custom rear box.
What a great ride. GM could learn a thing or two from this.
Kinda looks like its pregnant ;D
My newest hot rod: 1978 Ford Fairmont
Why? I like boxy cars with a flat decklid. Oh, and practically everything on the Fox platform Mustangs (1979-1993) will bolt to this car's chassis. These things weigh less than 3,000# too, so a 5 liter V8 and a 5-speed transmission will make for a really fun driver. This one is originally from Arizona, and it looks like it sat for most of its life. I believe the 62k miles showing are original. The body is in excellent shape, but the interior is toast. Cool feature on these is the aluminum bumpers, and this one came without any bumper guards or trim, resulting in the no-hole, smooth surface. There is a plate that fits behind the bumpers and has the mounts back there. This car was a stripper model and came with the 200ci 6 cylinder, 3-speed manual transmission, manual steering, and manual brakes. It's going to stay as-is for a while, but eventually it will get the 5-liter swap. Even then, I think it would be cool to stick with some steel wheels and dog-dish hubcaps. I like sleepers ;D
(https://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac168/wagginwagon/DSCF0215.jpg)
(https://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac168/wagginwagon/DSCF0222.jpg)
(https://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac168/wagginwagon/DSCF0219.jpg)
I'm all for the old cars. No black boxes to rat me out etc.
I put a Weber carb with a manual choke on my Jeep. What a neat feeling to be able to pump the gas pedal 4 or 5 times, pull the choke and crank the starter... so cool - it doesn't just start up like that new fuel injected junk... nope - stop cranking.... pump it a few more times, crank again and then it starts.
....and the smell of the exhaust fumes as it warms up.... now that's what I call a real truck....
I was pleasantly surprised by the nostalgic feeling when I first drove it, something about the manual steering, manual brakes, and a 3-speed manual trans. Supposedly, there's a radio block-off plate somewhere in the trunk. When i find it, I'll install it.
Definitly keep the body as is and the cheap hub caps. Way back I had a friend who had a 69 Checy Biscayne 2 door sedan, the cheapest thing in a full size Chevy. But he special ordered with the 396. Plain white, a real sleeper. :)
Quote from: MountainDon on September 05, 2008, 12:06:36 AM
A Chevy Motorcycle
Just had to bring up an old post. speaking of motorcycles, E J Potter aka the michgan madman may have had the first chevy powered bike. first with carbs, then hilborn injection, and finally, a jet powered trike. :o
(https://i991.photobucket.com/albums/af36/zion-dyi/Just%20stuff/JET-BIKE-EJ-POTER-2_lg.jpg)
forgot the chevy powered one. direct drive... start it and push off the stand, and hang on. ;D
(https://i991.photobucket.com/albums/af36/zion-dyi/Just%20stuff/potter.jpg)
Definitely a "madman" no matter where he's from. ;D
Anyone remember the 3 wheeled Reliants of the 1970's?
http://www.wimp.com/reliantrobin/
I recall seeing them in the UK, but don't think I ever saw one in N.A.
what ever happened to "true" show cars? ??? I sure miss them. Lil coffin
(https://i991.photobucket.com/albums/af36/zion-dyi/my%20dream%20cars/lilcoffin.jpg)
As a huge fan of sleepers, and especially Ford Fairmont sleepers, I love this video!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YIQmJ2qfsME
10.57 is fast for a street car, and considering how little tire can be stuffed in the stock wheel wells of these cars, it's amazing. He's running a junkyard Chevy truck 4.8l with a cheap turbo.
A friend sent these, funny thing was as soon as he described where, I know the place, on the way to Grandma's house :)
Click the slideshow and enjoy;
https://scottmais.smugmug.com/Other/Rust-Never-Sleeps/i-9JQq9Kh