CountryPlans Forum

Step one has been completed.  I wasted 48 gallons of water in a perc hole that I already knew would be less than 2 minutes per inch.  My septic will have no problem leaching.  Next step is to get a well in while I work on the neighbor for a Nitrogen easement so we can get the full 3 bedrooms on our lot.  If those go well, we will be purchasing the Universal Plans from here and be on our way to our farmhouse!

What happened with the modular thing?

We spoke to my cousin who builds houses and he convinced us he can do better and he will be more likely to let us do a lot ourselves where the modular comes mostly finished.  He has some really nice pine floors he does at a cost between carpeting and hardwood and he builds cabinets from scratch with pine if we want.  Hopefully we can use the salvage place down the street from us for some things as well.

Congratulations on your completion of step one!......
Please keep us informed on how things go.....

Cool!  You'll have more fun this way.  

Congrats, Daddymem.  The feeling is much better if you make it yourself. Your house should be an extension of what you are.  Not a particle board replica of what some company will allow you to be.  (Even though the one you were looking at looked pretty nice.) ;D

Thanks guys.  I'm probably gonna need some architect speak when the contractor tries to remove things from the design.  He wants to get rid of the overhangs but not if this is gonna be sun tempered.  I'm sure there will be other modifications.

Good onya Mate, we will all be looking forward to the updates.
jonsey :)

Good for you!  ;D
Each step puts you that much closer.
Keep us posted.
Are you going to build the farmhouse yourself?
What percentage of building will be contracted out?

My wife and I are really excited about building the farmhouse.

We have been watching ebay and looking at antique doors and windows from farmhouses in the early 1900s.

We are building near the Canton Texas area.
Home of the Largest Trade Day Event in the world.

One Weekend per month thousands of vendors try to sell anything you can imagine.

We have seen all kinds of things we would like to add to the house to give it an old country feel.

Look at this pic from the Uk.
A cute 2 storey cottage that reminded me of the universal.

http://tinypic.com/view.html?pic=4rucns

Unfortunately we have to hire out the majority of it since I work so many hours and we are bursting at the seams in our current home.  But since I am a civil engineer, I can do a bunch of the plans and design myself and hopefully a lot of the finish work can be done ourselves.  After we purchase the plans from John we will likely post the plans for comment since there are some changes to the floorplan we want to make.  We will probably ask for some opinions on materials etc. as well.  Luckily for us this place is right down the street:  http://www.nedsalvage.com/  You can sleep in our camper if you visit  ;)

Here is a network: http://build.recycle.net/index.html

Here is an Austin store:http://www.pieces-of-the-past.com/

Since I'd never seen how a perc test was done I tagged along and took pictures.  :)
Here's Daddymem doing his thing in the hole.
(https://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/mommymem/daddymem/IMG_0019Small.jpg)

Quotehis thing in the hole.

Dear Lord! Let's keep this place clean and no more pictures of my things in holes please.  ;)

Quote

Dear Lord! Let's keep this place clean and no more pictures of my things in holes please.  ;)

At least you didn't have plumbers butt in the pic! ;D

Anytime I'm bent over working I feel a breeze.

I got sunburned back there one time while installing deck boards..

Hey Jimmy,

Check out Duluth Tradinging Co.  Have a special t-shirt that cures your problem.

Woot!
Our neighbors to the rear have indicated that they will provide us with a nitrogen easement on their lot and it doesn't sound like they want any money either!  This is the difference between us building and us not building since we would have to pay an extra $15k to build a nitrogen reducing septic system without the easement.  Let's roll! 8) Of course now that means I gotta make John $159 richer  :P

Quotewe would have to pay an extra $15k to build a nitrogen reducing septic system without the easement.  Let's roll! 8)

You should buy them dinner.
You know, a $15,000.00 difference SHOULD allow for a VERY THICK steak!

QuoteHey Jimmy,

Check out Duluth Tradinging Co.  Have a special t-shirt that cures your problem.

I think that is ment to be a joke......
But, I will order two of them... ;D

I'll just call this payment for all the times I saw her drive by the main road and I would meet her at her garage and open the overhead for her.  Sometimes it pays to be a good doobie  ;D

--------------ITEMS ORDERED----------------
 QTY     Product      Description                Unit Price   Total
    1each     Z012        Universal 20' wide 2-story    159.00    159.00

Guess the boss ordered up our plan...Universal Cottage it is.  I'll get to drawing up some slightly modified floorplans and set myself up on the chopping block for critiques from the masters as soon as they arrive.

Super Daddymem- sounds great. :o

Way to go Daddymem, you're off and racing.
jonesy. :)

More news! Some good, some not as good.
1.  I found land!  The abutting neighbor I hope to get an easement from actually owns more land than what her deed says!  According to my survey department at work, if my calculations are right we just file a plan at the registry of deeds and she gains that land, then I ask for an easement and she basically loses nothing.  

2.  Our current mortgage has a penalty if we sell prior to next March.  It looks like our new goal is to get a building permit approved prior to December and get whatever we can get done before the cold stops us this year.  We can then finish up slowly to hit a March-April move in.  This is good and bad.  We would like to be in earlier, but spring is the best time to sell a home anyways.  

I hope we get a nice present in the mail from countryplans.com today.... :D

I hope you get your "Gift" soon.

Remember,
Every Journey Begins with One Step, But Some Take a Lot More than Others.

I don't worry about the cold slowing down my progress here in Texas.

But, the 100+ degree days in August are a pain in the neck.

YAY!! We got the plans today!! I saved it special for Daddymem to open.  :)

Got a go from our rear neighbors for the nitrogen easement....and they asked for no $$$$!!!! :D
Now I've got a race against the clock to get a building permit pulled by December with a DEP review period in the way after the Town reviews it too.  I hope we can extend that variance, that would be the easiest and put us in our house next building season.  The other hurdle we have is to come up with the lawyer speak for Massachusetts and Maine (one of the estate members) easement.  

Great progress daddymen ( & mommymen). It's sometimes a struggle to wait for the permit dept. to get back to you so it pays to get it in as quick as possible. There is at least a 2-3 month wait here and thats for a plan with no changes required. Keep us abreast of your progress. Looking forward to hearing more ( & more pictures).

Laura

Oh yeah, I am waaay used to waiting on permits.  The Nitrogen Aggregation permit first has to go to the town for approval and signature on the state application.  Then I submit to the state which has a 30 day Administrative review and a 60 day technical review.  Fortunately, I have done a Nitrogen Aggregation with this bureau and my boss knows everyone there so maybe he can pull the right strings...  The town has indicated that the variance can be extended 6 months to a year, but they think my variance should have a 2 year expiration, not one anyways so we may be in luck!  

Now we just hope we can convince my cousin (the contractor) of our alternative ideas on construction....

I'll get the modified floor plans up some time.

I am keeping my fingers crossed for you and hope you can pull some strings in the planning department.    ;D

Hopefully, you can convince your contractor to go with your unconventional ways. Don't forget, construction always take longer than planned.  :o

Laura

I'm starting to understand why home prices are so high in your area. Building there seems to involve an excessive amount of time and risk.

Bart

Right front overall:
(https://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/mommymem/daddymem/rightfront.jpg)

Right front first floor:
(https://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/mommymem/daddymem/firstiso.jpg)

Right front second floor:
(https://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/mommymem/daddymem/secondiso.jpg)

Small Daddymem, but they say size doesn't really matter that much - it's the quality that counts. ;D

Good one Glen  ;D

Great looking place Daddymen. Can't wait to see your progress photos.

Building costs are expensive her for a number of reasons including the high price of materials due to the fact that we import everything. Also, construction wages are competitive and ther is a constant demand since you can build all year round here. All these things put togtether and the fact that we are in a hurricane zone makes for expensive construction.

Laura

Thanks, Laura.  Gotta keep daddymem informed. ;D

Since I can't stop imagining things...a free thought ponderance session:

If we are going for cathedral ceilings in the bedrooms, would it make sense to look at this house as 1.5 stories instead?

I'm thinking a 4 foot kneewall. Too high?  

If we use a 12 to 12 pitch on the roof, with only 20 feet of total width, would the large front bedroom split into two bedrooms in the future work?  Would an even steeper pitch make sense?  We are not opposed to the Gothic rooflines, but not sure it would fit in this house...but we could do it almost like Chapin's house in Leverett depicted Sarah Susanka's book....  

One big issue I see would be solar tempering that would be lost due to the knee wall. Would it look odd to have short sliding or hopper windows in that kneewall?  Would they server purpose beyond ventilation?  Or would skylights be a better option?

I guess I'll have to model it in Chief, but any thoughts, opinions of others here?  A model on the screen just isn't the same as the real thing.  I know John has the 1.5 sotry plans, but it just doesn't look big enough to split the front into two bedrooms with that low (2'?) kneewall.  

This came about because we went to a craft fair this morning in one of the oldest parts of town.  The entire neighborhood is a summer "campground" where the houses are the small cottages.  There were many narrow 1.5 story houses there.  That victorian gingerbread look was everywhere so it got me thinking.....    

On the easement front, we go before the town again this wednesday to ask for a one year extension on our variance.  Our neighbor is gone for a month, so I basically will have a month to design and prepare an application package when we get our extension.  Gonna be a busy month  :o

The First Day Cottages http://www.firstdaycottage.com use ~4' kneewalls with windows near floor level.

(http://www.firstdaycottage.com/images/IndexPic.jpg)

Lots more pics on their site. To me, the window placement looks interesting... it's the lack of overhangs that looks odd.

A big skylight on each side as close to the outside wall as possible will also add an extra foot or so of headroom underneath. And of course, you could add dormers flush with the outside walls.

Today I'm off to sign my mortgage documents. In a month I'll be closing on the land and then I get to go through the sewage permit/board of variance/building permit/etc. wringer.

Bart

Have fun with mortgages, variances and the like.

I'd thought that windows in the corners had to be carefully engineered.  Which of course they can be.  The Frank Lloyd Wright house in Florence has at least one all glass corner.

Azby Brown's book on Japanese Houses (Small Spaces) notes that windows all over the place are pretty common there.  Depending on what you want to see, how you want the light to come in, and where a window will fit.  And half-height doors, especially into things like tea ceremony structures.

The houses that did the best in Hurricane Andrew had no overhangs, were in fact, from all reports nasty asbestos sided tiny-windowed no overhang no porch jobs.

A house we lived in on Guam was later destroyed by a typhoon because the dining room was a  screen porch, with the great big heavy concrete roof cantilevered out over it, if IIRC.  It was one of about eight identical houses stepped down a hill there.  Early pictures made them look ghastly.  But by the time they were 10 years old, landscaping, and the fact that the people living there were a remarkably cosmopolitan group made the insides look totally different, even though they weren't.

There we go..I updated the isometrics (page 2).  I also have the floor plans (thanks Cedarglen for the master bath idea).

First floor
(https://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/mommymem/daddymem/first.png)

Second floor
(https://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/mommymem/daddymem/second.png)

Cross your fingers for me...tonight we see if we get an extension on our variance.

Great looking plan there Daddymen. A couple of questions - is the space between the kitchne and dining area a step? This might be akward maneuvering there if you are coming up the stairs and the door cannot swing all the way back to the wall.  Otherwise great. The master bath with just a shower I can agree with. I only use the shower in my bath and so decided not to buy the separate tub so now I have a large space to put something efficient for there.  :o

Great plans again  :D

Laura

Those dotted lines are invisible walls created so Chief demarks the rooms properly.  There is only one single elevation for each floor.  Thanks, not too much tweaked beyond John's floorplan.  We may explore a small recycled clawfoot tub if it can fit.  I'll provide a narrative when I get a chance.

I like that plan very much Daddymem.  

I would choose to eliminate the two small porches and the two associated doors ... making all foot traffic cross the larger (screened) porches.  This would make for a second barrier for houseflies and mosquitoes ... a concern in my neck of the woods for many months a year.

Remember that second floor walls must be supported on the first floor by other walls, or posts, or extra (or reinforced) joists.

Quote
Remember that second floor walls must be supported on the first floor by other walls, or posts, or extra (or reinforced) joists.

Would 2x12s at 16 inch centers be enough to span the 20 feet for the second floor and support the walls?

We plan on a center beam support as suggested in John's plans, I think that takes care of it, no?

I would expect so ... it certainly seems ample.  Just something to be aware of if you are loading the first floor by more, or greatly relocated, second floor walls.

Well....variance extension requested...extension granted! :)

Now for a quick once over on the plan...it will help me catch anything before I get it to the contractor and solidify things in my mind.  Besides, probably can pick up an idea or two from people here :)

This house will sit at an angle to the road.  The side with the large "Deck" will get the solar exposure.  The "porch" on the bottom of the image will serve as a front door.  This is wide enough to decorate for the seasons (we love our seasons here in New England).  We plan on keeping a large swath of the pine and oaks between the front door and the road.  Our road is a dead end dirt road so no "curb appeal" needed.  We will bring in a short driveway to a carport off to the left of the image (gravel please). The house will sit up 3-4 feet above finished grade.   We expect to use the door at the "porch" on the left side of the image.  It is covered so we can fumble with our keys in the rain or snow. Through that door will be an unloading area in the form of a  mud room.  Next to the closet will be a bench with cubbies below, coat hooks above.  That closet may shrink to maximise the bench area.  Note that the stair landing are will be open through to the living room (balusters only) to keep an open, airy feel.  Small downstairs 1/2 bath.  

Large fridge for a growing family.  Pantry with shelves and a curtain, no door.  Door going out to a screen porch.  We envision a table out there for 3 season dining room and still plenty of room for a couple rockers to enjoy the night air.  Note that front door and kitchen door open will create a cross breeze through house.  Counter to the left of the stove will be butcher block.  Remaining counters will be a decent laminate.  To the right of the stove are open shelves in lieu of cabinets.  Cabinets over the dishwasher, shelves to frame it all off on the right of these.  Counter between the dining room is higher than kitchen counter; may serve as a dining bar.  Hopefully this setup will work for us, we cook a lot.  

Dining room table for growing family and the 'rents for the holidays.  

Corner of living room may have a pellet stove, but we may move that into a family room downstairs instead.  Small closet by front door, our main closet is back at our mudroom.  

Sliders with french door look open onto either a deck or patio.  If we can, this will be a sunroom in the future.  In the open stair well there is a whole house fan up through the cathedralled ceiling.

We will have a high walled cellar to finish off in the future.  Not much but mechanicals for now.  Maybe a workbench and office area thrown together.

On up the stairs for the "resident" area of the house.  We are thinking cathedral ceilings over the bedrooms, attic storage everywhere else (is it easy to mix cathedral and not?)  Ahead is the main bathroom, to be used mostly by the ankle biters, maybe a romantic bath if the 'rents babysit for us :)  To the left is the master bedroom.  Not grand, but comfortable and good travel paths.  Walk in closet through a curtain.  Makeup table/ligerie storage beneath the window for the Mrs.  Small bathroom with shower stall (small clawfoot available?)  

Through a dutch door is one gigantamongous bedroom for the kids.  In the future, a wall can be built at the center of this room to make two bedrooms, but for now one big romper room.  We would like to explore lofting the beds over the closet as step 2 before a wall goes up.

General items:
Hard flooring, throw rugs only, no wall to wall.
Reclaimed anything is acceptable for everything but electricals like stove etc. (better efficiency with the new stuff).  We want people to walk in this house and think "how old is this place?" and not "nice new house."
Geothermal heatpump at the top of the list, propane fueled whatever as a second choice.  We really would like forced hot air to take advantage of the ventilation/filtration you can't get with forced hot water.  This is something we need to work out still.  It gets hot enough, frequent enough to require air conditioning so it would be nice to get central air through the same vents and humidifier for the dry winters as well.

Of course...all of this can change at any moment...kinda used to rolling with the punches by now :-[
If you hung on this long, thanks!  If you have comments/suggestions, thanks!      

Internet acquaintance runs an air-to-air heat exchanger with filter on the incoming air, with the air circling through his closets.  Which sounds like a wonderful idea.  I can pass on scanned things (huge files) of plans from an old Popular Mechanics for a home-built air-to air job.  I'm pretty sure he dehumidifies somewhere in there as well.

He's got some variant on PAHS/AGS possibly as well or maybe runs that in line with this.  

The best site for a HOUSE for me may be too flat to use AGS/PAHS, and some parts of the year there's a small pond up there as well. (all the other possiblities involve removing acres of trees).

Five outside doors (to remember to lock when you leave?)?  They all look pretty useful for both daylighting and ventilation.  Although if, put that way they sound a little much, you could separate the functions, have ventilation down low with just thermal glass for a non-opening window above it on the North side.  but that may get rid of only one.  Or is that just a big slider window.  In either case, low air intake may be a good idea right there.

Solid floors, rugs for bare feet to snuggle in, good, good.

For sure, refrigerator, and washer (and dryer) can be highly energy efficient.  Maybe not much improvement with a stove.  With electricity or gas, if you can avoid having that always on 60-watt substitute for a pilot light--or the pilot light.  The real foodies love a gas cook-top--with at least one extra-big burner--and electric oven(s) that heat up a bit more evenly.

Three doors and a slider.  Seems a lot, but each does serve a purpose and maybe I'm a bit claustraphobic living in this shoebox with only one useable door in the whole house.  :-/

You've done your planning!  Very good.

Because you expect to do a lot of cooking, consider getting an extra wide stove/range.  Our '50s house came with a 40" wide stove that we recently replaced.  Not the easiest thing to find, but occasionally Sears will have them on their salesroom floor.  We bought a Kenmore stainless steel dual fuel model.  5 gas burner range top.   A large convection elect oven is beside a smaller conventional warmer electric oven.  It made the wife a very happy cooker.

Do you need a/some window(s) looking out on that porch from the stove area?  But that would loose cabinet space.  Perhaps a lot of glass in that door would give you a view.  Since it's a covered door under the porch roof, you may want that one to swing outward, avoiding some swathe interference in the kitchen area.

I know you would loose storage, and it would be a bit more costly to insulate properly .... but that whole second floor would be awesome if it were all "cathedral"!

I think I would make the front door swing the other way to avoid blinding the coat closet.

Since the large bedroom may later get reworked, I would not go to the expense of finished closets ... shelves with curtain surrounds should meet the need and save some money.   ....For the extra width stove.

See now, that is the stuff I am talking about...what does John say..."none of us is as smart as all of us"  I'm considering SIPS for the roof, if that makes any sense...

I tried to find some reference material online about the dual fuel Kenmore ... but it looks like Sears is now only selling the 40" in "all electric".

But here is the "dual fuel" on the Frigidaire site:

http://homerepair.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?zi=1/XJ&sdn=homerepair&zu=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.frigidaire.com%2Fproducts%2Fcooking%2Franges%2Ffree-standing%2Fgas%2Fprod_PLCF489CC.asp

You may want to consider a 48" or 60" ... they're available!

I think I'd accept used for the stove--not refrigerator or washing machine, or, presumably dishwasher.  Clothes dryer--as far as I can tell cannot be made really energy efficient, so that might be bought used as well.

Oven and cooktop could be separate, especially if you want the dual fuel.  Even if you do end up putting the oven below the burners.

If you go for the big honking gas cooktop, don't go for what is called "restaurant" type, "commercial"is OK.  (burner size and fire prevention is the difference.)

Now, how crazy is it to attempt to build the 2 story on my own as my first carpentry experience?  I have a professional carpenter friend to help some, but he works a lot of hours and won't be around much.  My thoughts are I tackle what I can with my father and wife and hire help here and there for the tough parts.  

Some people I talk to tell me I am nuts (ok so they normally do anyways :P ), others say sure, it is a simple structure with only the second story and the tall steep roof as the "difficult" parts.  I think my work will let me go to 4 day work weeks with alternating 4 day weekends and 2 day weekends so that will help.

I plan on getting the Wagner framing book, have the Habitat for Humanities book already, and want to find the Working Alone book.  Any others I should be looking for?

I can't even imagine an engineer who is not capable of building a house, Daddymem.  I have seen some who wouldn't try.  It may be a little different to actually grab a tool, squeeze the trigger and hang on while the motor makes noise and try to make it follow a thin pencil line across the wood, but I have faith in you.  You are much more adventurous than some engineers,  Heck, we've already seen a picture of you with your tools in the hole. ;D

You'll be a better engineer for it.  Some lucky clients over there will finally get their chance to deal with an engineer who has hands on experience. ;D

Sorry about giving you a bad time--- I do it to my cousin (an engineer) also.  Can't resist.  I'm sure you can do it and do it well if you can work it into your schedule. You will find that there is much more satisfaction in doing it yourself also.  It will be a monument to your abilities for the rest of your life. :)

Great!  Even if getting started is always scary.

First of all Glenn...how did those pictures get on the internet and where are the posted!!!!  Oh wait, you mean these tools, this hole...http://countryplans.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=01;action=display;num=1114727619;start=0#0
 ;D
No problem with the digs...it could be worse, I could be an architect... ;D  For those of you not in the industry the engineers always complain about the architects and the architects about the enigineers.  Usually it is just a lack of communication between the two.  Most anything can be done, usually one, the other, or both doesn't understand what is required to do it so it is just easier to complain about it.  Then of course there are those darn contractors who just can't seem to read minds (replace with plans if you wish ;D) about the plans.

Sending in a covert operative (my wife) to the Town this week to see what we can do about living on the lot while building.  I find the less informed you appear to be, the more information you walk away with...in other words, "Act dumb" and if you can't then send in someone ignorant of the topic (or capable of acting it).  Fortunately, my wife has a clue about the "gist" of things but only enough to cull the information needed but not able to answer any loaded questions.  

If you're not allowed to live on the lot, you'll have to come up with another way of securing the job site. Building on weekends, it will take a while to get to lockup stage. In the meantime you'll have a lot of increasingly expensive building materials lying around. SIPs would give you a big advantage in that regard. Even after lockup, you don't want to arrive and find that someone has removed all your windows... which does happen.

Security really isn't much of an issue.  The lot is next door to and visible from my parent's house.  So at the very least we may try to live in a trailer on their lot...just wouldn't have the septic hookup that way.

Well, we have had a big setback.  It appears the Board of Health Regulations I have has a typo.  In my Town we need 150' separation between well and septic, not 100' like the Regs I have say.  So my submitted plans need to be modified.  Problem is, I don't have 150' from my well and the abutting well so our only option besides purchasing more land or clearing up the title for the neighbor behind us so we can get an easement there is to put in an Innovative/Alternative system.

I have chosen the AdvanTex system due to the small footprint and what appears to be high treatment with "low" costs.  Here it is: http://www.wastewatertechnologies.com/advantexax.html (Firefox didn't like their site, IE did)  I should get some design and price information soon.  I'm estimating $15,000 constructed...there goes the garage for several years  :-/  
Here is the State Approval letter for this sytem: http://mass.gov/dep/water/wastewater/w060156.pdf  
Here is a schematic: http://mass.gov/dep/water/wastewater/sfhdwg.pdf
I've seen this in person, it is very small, very sturdy, and maintenance appears to be easy.  Now I have to go out and get an operators license so I don't have to pay someone else to run it.
This weekend I will be adding the details to the plan and it looks like I won't have to modify it too much.  The BOH agent is being awesome.  It looks like if I get this in, he will approve it rapidly.  Let's hope this works.

Not fun, hope it works!

In Nashville I had city water, started out with a septic tank and soakaway, not standard drain field.  I think it may well have been grandfathered in, though.

The far out alternatives include:

No well--rainwater harvesting (to get great-tasting water you might get to buy it)--but this doesn't help your neighbor much.

(I let my "roofwasher" freeze and to no one's surprise the pvc valve cracked--so I get to replace it before I can catch any more water.  Boo!--although there are frost-proof versions around--I've got what is called the "poor man's version")

The Earthship^tm greywater system which reuses and semipurifies water a bunch of times is lovely, but they've got conventional septic tanks as well.

Art Ludwig recommends the same for his systems.  Not much use for greywater in frozen ground.

Composting toilets of any one of a bunch of varieties.

These guys are at least up in New England--they're the ones with the humongous--and expensive--tanks in the house and swear that they have a system that works in Boston.

http://www.clivusmultrum.com/  

Here we are 100 to leach lines - 150 to a drilled cesspool - so you are 150 feet for anything, eh?

My Firefox seemed to run the site fine- I went through quite a lot of it.  I'm running version 1.0.7  with about 33 extensions.

Did you get the menu on the left side of the page?  That was what I was referring to.  I've got 1.07 with the i-hacked mods

I think I had all of it -- Home -Products- services -about 6 or 7 items -  popup menu on cursor scrollover- all clickable- and linked to more site -

Let me know if I missed anything.

Just upgrades to 1.5 site works fine in that.  I also noticed my script blocker upgraded too...that was probably it.

I upgraded to 1.5 once then went back because there were too many toys -- extensions that didn't work with it yet.  - That was when it was still a beta thiough- I see that quite a few of the extensions have now been upgraded.

I've found most extensions are gimmicks or garbage anyways...you only need a few and those that are worth it now work fine in 1.5.

I don't know about that , Daddymem-- there's just something about having an egg timer on my browser that really gets my attention.

Nice project guys.

Woops. :-/ :-[

(http://www.countryplans.com/yabbfiles/Smilies/2vrolijk_08.gif)


Now the question is...why is it taking so long for them to get information to me!  BOH likes the system, complimented my plans to the point of embarrassement, and said he will go to bat for me at the meeting in January.  All I have to do is modify my plans to show the new components, but I can't do that without details.  :-/ If you go to the web site (with a properly working browser) the details there are for general installations, Massachusetts has some requirements based on the Provision Approval here so I can't use them. *sigh*

UUhhhhhhh, yeah, Daddymem, fortunately now that we did that diagnostic work, browser repair project and got your problem fixed maybe it will be possible for you to get your information and get your house project back on track. _{(Nice save, Daddymem, I think John may have thought we were goofing off.  PS -you can get a magic 8 ball for your Firefox browser too in case you ever have trouble making decisions.)} :P

:)::) You Guys Crack Me Up!   ::) :)

Sometimes we're funny, Jimmy, but looks aren't everything. :'(

Finally...got my information today.  What I need for a unit is a fiberglass tank, roughly 3'wx4'lx3'h that sits on top of my septic tank.  If I can get it right, I can still go gravity from this unit to my leaching area, I may have some of the tank above grade; I am told we can frame it in, throw some mulch around it and make it a landscape feature if need be.  I think I could drop my system a bit to make it flush, I will figure that out tomorrow morning.
We have a meeting set with David now!  We have 3 different floorplans we like, one like John's Universal but 18'x33'-4", one 18'x30' (or 33'-4") with no bath upstairs, and one 18'x40' with baths up and down and a huge bedroom for the ankle biters to play in.  I'll post floorplans when I get a chance to grab them off my pen drive and laptop.  I can't believe this looks like it is finally going to happen, all because of this forum.  Before coming here I never considered that I could build a house on my own, never broke down a house into the smaller pieces each manageable.  I feel like I know a secret that most people don't know.  It is going to be a long, tough year next year but the rest of our life will be payment enough.  I am so looking forward to working with my beautiful wife like we did when we first met, she and I have so much fun doing nothing. Love ya mommymem  :-*

PDF below if you are interested

Sounds like you're going to have fun, Daddymem.  Wow - you are so fresh. ::)

Did you ever get information on affordability for the filtration/treatment system?  Thanks for the pdf- I studied up on it a bit.

Not all costs but should be $8-9K plus the conventional system costs (~$5K installed).  Around here you can't install systems yourself so I expect somewhere around $15k will get me in the ground and running.  That includes operations and maintenance for the first three years I think, but may be only the first.  Compared to the costs of other systems I have seen, this is pretty reasonable.  I like that with this Provisional Approval they already get 660 gpd/acre loading-it indicates that there is a measure of trust that this system works well.  I have seen the system up close and it makes sense.  Let's hope it all goes well.

On the January 3rd BOH agenda for my variance.  Meeting the 27th with David for floorplans.
Here we are so far:
18x40? 18x33-4?
1st
(https://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/mommymem/daddymem/1st.png)
Divide-able living room to allow adults in one area whilst the rug rats play in another.
Eat in kitchen that allows the dining to flex for Holiday/Party gatherings.
Slider at bottom of picture out to a small screened in eating area????
Closet is a pantry.
Salvaged clawfoot tub.
Brick is wodstove area.
Farmer's porch off top of picture???
2nd
(https://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/mommymem/daddymem/2nd.png)
Washer/dryer on same floor as rooms.
Maybe closets, maybe furniture units instead.
Loft over stairs and bath for kids, one bay for adults?
Adults on bottom of picture, future kids room when addition built.
Kids on top of picture, large enough to split or divide cleverly if we can't get the addition done.
Bath over bath downstairs, takes care of plumbing issue.
If monitor heater in basement, put under baths, vent up and down and through walls, use fans to circulate.  Portable AC could work in same fashion.
Fans in both bedrooms.
Window fan at top of stairs for whole house ventilation.
May reconfigure bath-would love soaker tub like John R's.

I was under the impression - on the 18 foot plan, they were going to the scissor stair?  

I've heard both.  I heard they are going to the 18 from the 16 due to some change in the code about stairs.    I imagine they could do either.

Yep,

The 16 doesn't leave much room on either end of the stairs.

I believe I saw it posted somewhere that national code is changing.

When I was up there - the talk was 9/12 pitch & scissor stair and cutting off the kneewall at 4 1/2 ft.

The demo plan I was given - shows scissor stair & the hallway up the middle.

Oh boy, we better bring out Universal layout in case...

18 foot demo.

Met with David...wow...just...wow.  We have in our hands a 24'x33'-4" set of plans to markup (very little to change, interior walls, etc.)  Sounds like they will eventually be going to only the 24' wide model but will do the 16' model if someone requests it.  So much to digest, so much to tell about here...too tired now, I'll try to get to it in the morning before we head north again, this time to see grams.  Even got a new dvd and a cool paper model to put together of the house.  Neat guy that David is, reminded me of Andy Rooney.

OK just one question - Straight or scissor stair?

straight

Rofl...what a great dvd David has now.  I laughed, I cried (well mommymem twisted my arm and it hurt), and we learned a bit.  Great photos, great information about the people who build these houses and some great footage of David explaining his "mission."  We are ready to go, get the red tape outta our way!

Ok, got a few minutes here.  The stair code topic:
There are two current stair codes, the "old" one @ 8-1/4" max rise, 9" tread and the @ "international" one 7-3/4" max rise 10" tread.  The difference in the FirstDay cottages is 2 extra treads to meet the international code.
What the official name of the "old" one is, I'm not sure, but I think that refers to the Uniform Construction Code (UCC).  The "international" one refers to the International Residential Code (IRC) I think (looks like there is a 2006 version?).  I'm not sure why the archs didn't chime in on this question... :-?

There were (and still are) a number of codes that are slowly being replaced by the IRC. In the west the code was always the UBC (uniform building code). There was another code in the east that I can't now remember the name of.

The shallower stair is more difficult to design for. Check with your local jurisdiction to see what they want - it may not be the same as the next city or county. And... as we've talked about before it will vary with the SF and use of the area the stairs goes to.

Darn.  All the floorplans I've drawn up assume one foot of rise for one foot of run, with 6" stairs.  I take it that doesn't work?  In words of one syllable for the mathematically slow, how long does a stairway have to be to go up 8' now?  And is a scissor stair a U-shaped stair?

Here is the layout planning tool that I have on my subscription home deisgn site. The Schematic layout sheet has several 1/8" scale stairways that can help plan a usable floorplan.

http://tinyurl.com/9jynf

The plan scaler sheet is also helpful for taking a magazine plan and pulling parts of it into your design.

http://tinyurl.com/9fdbj

John Raabe
www.planhelp.com

QuoteHere is the layout planning tool that I have on my subscription home deisgn site.

Those look really neat.  The site says it's not ready for people to join it, though.

Why you might want to join us...

Note - this site is coming soon, but is NOT ready for membership. Please don't join yet.

so with a 10 inch rise for each 7.75 step you could get 8 feet in 6 feet? Ultimately, what is the footprint of a set of basic small stairs up to a standard height second floor?  [smiley=shocked.gif]

I think 7 3/4 rise is max with 10 " min. run -- anyway there is a free document you can print - I think John posted it in the free stuff section - gives you lots of stair stuff based on the code.

This is what I am building in mine.
7-3/4" rise with a 10-1/2" tread.

(http://tinypic.com/jae6vp.jpg)

Nice drawing Jimmy. Very well worked out.

Have you mentioned before what software you are using and what your learning curve was? (I'm still looking for the best package to standardize on for my owner/designer site at PlanHelp.com)

John

I am pretty sure I got the layout from a stair calulator program that was somewhere in this forum.
I can't seem to find it anymore.
The stair drawing was created in Auto-Cad. A tool I use every day at work to create flat panel layouts to be cut out on a Cnc router.  The learning curve? About 8 years!

I have used cheap or freeware Cad packages in the past that are perfect for doing simple layouts of floor plans or walls. The drawing results have a simular look to autocad. I will try to find a few of them online.

I'd appreciate you thoughts Jimmy.

I have been planning to use the old 3D Home Architect ver 3.0 (which can be purchased for as little as $6 and takes about 20 minutes to learn the basics) as a floor planning tool. It will allow people to rearrange walls, windows, doors and room layouts. They can also view simple 3D views of the inside and outside. But the cross section information is limited and framing and drawing level details are nonexistent.

If we could find an inexpensive and easy to learn program for simple CAD shapes and details that would be very helpful. I could do template details (a typical wall section, for instance) upload it into a library of details on the site, then someone else could download it and change the siding and interior finish callouts, as an example, for their own plans.

The learning curve of Auto CAD or even Chief Architect is too much to ask of an owner working on their own house project (not to mention the $$$ spent on the entry fee).

Daddymem,

It's been a few days since the visit to Firstday Central.

Do tell....

on the 34xx24 - how's the floorplan going to look & did David try to talk you out of the 1st floor bath?

Did you visit the planet's 2nd best chocolate shop?

Floorplan is nice, I'll try to get sth in electronic format up here.  We have the kitchen, 3/4 bath, entryway, stairway, and den on one half of the bottom floor, living area on the other half of the bottom floor with a woodstove in the middle.  The second floor will have a walk in closet and 3/4 bath for the master, and a decent sized bedroom and full bath for the kids.  David whipped this plan up before our eyes with pens, whiteout, and a photocopier...neat to watch someone who is a master.  This was the working prototype of the 24-wide and it just fit perfectly on our site as if it were made for us.
We went to the chocolate store on our first visit...didn't buy a thing, waaaaay overpriced, but isn't most everything up there?

Sounds good.

Now does the 24 use a beam below & posts at 12 feet on each 24' bent?

Wait a minute - are the bents installed in pieces - like the cape model?

There was a website that showed a cape model going together, a while back - think it's a dead link now - but the guy was in western mass.

It is very pricey up there (NH) - but beautiful...  And beauty costs money.

I told David his town reminded me of the TV show Northern Exposure - where all these eclectic, influential people all are drawn together.  Did he tell you about dinner with Ken Burns?

There are two options for the basement support: lolly columns, or three-bay (minimum) walls.  The floor joists sandwich the tops of the built-up posts on the wall version...I think we may do that.  I believe the bents are big "Ls" (with heels) you put up in a similar fashion on the first floor.  The second floor uses rafters that you lift 2-feet onto the tops of the posts.

There was an article in the Globe about new assessments on property.  There was a guy who had a modest home assessed at $300,000.  No big deal for this part of the country....then they slapped a $200,000 view value on his house!  They are doing that all over the place and an even bigger problem is they aren't applying the rules evenly, some views get assessed way higher than others and there doesn't appear to be any justification for it (one is not better than the other).  Some nth generation elderly farm owners are having to sell their places since they can't afford the new taxes.  What makes this worse is that the people who can afford these taxes are the developers who carve that farm into postage stamp lots and put those ugly McMansion boxes on them.

They are an eclectic bunch up there for sure.  New Hampshire is beginning to suffer an identity crisis.  They throw their arms up in protest proclaiming they are not like Massachusetts, yet more and more it looks like Massachusetts.  When they say Massachusetts, what they mean is suburbs of Boston.  I almost cry to think my family won't be handed down my grandparent's pond front log cabin (she has a reverse mortgage).  I grew up as a kid dreaming that I would move there to live someday and still toss around the idea from time to time of moving up there.  Maybe someday...

I bet David could fill a week with stories of people he has met.  He used to build for the rich and famous.  I didn't ask, but I wonder if he still does that work as well as the FirstDay business?

I can identify with the property values issue from above - that's why I'll never be able to move back to my hometown (wakefield MA) as prices on the North Shore are outrageous.

Even here in CT - where I purchased my current house, 8yrs ago for 85k- prices are getting silly.  

I guess that's where John's plans & Firstdays come in.

Oh yeah - and our ELECTRIC rate is going up 22% that's TWENTY-TWO PERCENT!

Effective tomorrow.

Ouch, those rate hikes are horrible.
Hey do you know the Hawes from Wakefield?
Yeah David seems really honest in his vision of putting the regular people into houses.  The support really seems to be there to, he even goes on trips visiting the different houses going up.

Not off the top of my head - but it's been 15 years....in CT.

Class of '85.

Yeah the rate hikes are crazy - Power goes up tomorrow (22 %) - Oil will soon follow.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!

How does the nitrogen easement work...Just out of curiosity?

is it based on your square footage in relation to the gallon per day the septic system would see (based on the size of your house and occupants?)

Just curious

-Peter

We are limited to 440 gpd/acre (DEP acres are builders acres=40,000 sf).  With additional treatments we can get to 550 or 660 gpd/acre.  Combined with 110 gpd/bedroom design flow, you can figure out how much land is needed.  At 440 gpd/acre it is equal to 10,000 sf per bedroom and the State requires 3 bedroom minimum so you need 30,000 sf of land.  We only have around 25,000 sf.  If your lot does not have enough area to meet the loading rates, you put an easement on an adjacent piece of land not owned by you.  Our neighbor sets 5,000 sf of land aside to not be touched by developement and not be counted towards loading for her either; this is done with the easement which is a document registered with the Registry of Deeds on her lot and I get one on my lot describing the 5,000 sf I need.
Fortunately I don't need to go through that now that I have to do the I/A system.  I get 660 gpd/acre loading and the math comes down to 412 gpd could be discharged on this land, I only need 330 gpd for my future expanded home (3 bedrooms).  
These regs only apply to new construction in nitrogen sensitive areas, generally either private well and septic areas, or wellhead protection areas.

The best use of these regulations are for cluster development of subdivisions.  For example we got approval for a subdivision on Nantucket island where each lot is only 10,000 sf or so.  They each get their loading by having a nitrogen easement on open space parcels at the back of the property.  The State doesn't get it yet, but hopefully they soon will...there should be a bonus for the cluster use of the regs.  I think 10,000 sf lots are way too small, but for a summer retreat (mostly what Nantucket is) it could work fine.
Google Earth map below.  All that green in the back will stay green, all the lots will be up in the front off the main road.

Can you get the nitrogen easement from the city street in front of your house, Daddymem?

Sure could....if the owner (the Town) agrees to it, but that just ain't gonna happen.  An easement is a legal agreement between two parties.  I have gotten approval to use proposed roads in the area calculations since they are going to be private roads.  In fact, the Milestone project above counts the road area in the calculations.

Variance granted, minor revisions to plan to do, if I get it in this week the BOH agent promises a permit next week!!!!! Major hurdle completed!!!!! (http://www.countryplans.com/yabbfiles/Smilies/2vrolijk_08.gif)(http://www.countryplans.com/yabbfiles/Smilies/2vrolijk_08.gif)(http://www.countryplans.com/yabbfiles/Smilies/2vrolijk_08.gif)(http://www.countryplans.com/yabbfiles/Smilies/2vrolijk_08.gif)

QuoteVariance granted, minor revisions to plan to do, if I get it in this week the BOH agent promises a permit next week!!!!! Major hurdle completed!!!!! (http://www.countryplans.com/yabbfiles/Smilies/2vrolijk_08.gif)(http://www.countryplans.com/yabbfiles/Smilies/2vrolijk_08.gif)(http://www.countryplans.com/yabbfiles/Smilies/2vrolijk_08.gif)(http://www.countryplans.com/yabbfiles/Smilies/2vrolijk_08.gif)

Congrats .... good luck .... and I hope things move along quickly for ya'll! :)

Yahoo!

Cool, Daddymem.  Looks like you just had a major movement. :)

Here is page one of our septic plans if people are interested....hrm, i think i'll post a link to the pdf instead, these are 24x36 plans...stay tuned for later
Here we go:
http://www.mtdata.com/chrisc/public_html/1of2.pdf
http://www.mtdata.com/chrisc/public_html/2of2.pdf
Probably only temporary, but should hold for a while.

Took advantage of the 50's weather (In New England in January?!?!  :o ) to flag the well location for the driller.  Then for the heck of it we flagged out roughly where the footprint of the house will be on the lot and visually located the parking pad and driveway just to get a good feel.  Kinda neat when you can stand in the future living room and see what you will see when it is built.  Also looked at how high the first floor will be over the existing grades....nice.  Mommymem will get some photos of the flagging on her blog sometime.

Heating is still a chore.  We need an answer from the bank...do monitor heaters qualify as central heating?

Geothermal-absolutely out!  One good article why: "Digging the Hype" section (http://homeenergy.org/archive/hem.dis.anl.gov/eehem/96/961112.html)  As if $20,000 price tag isn't enough.

Monitor type heater:
Fuel oil business in New England is supposedly competitive (http://www.newenglandoil.com/massachusetts/zone14.asp?x=0) With this choice, we can put in an on demand hot water heater (http://www.toyotomiusa.com/products/WaterHeaters.html) using fuel oil too. And we like the looks of the L60AT and L73AT Toyos  (http://www.toyotomiusa.com/products/LaserVentedHeaters.html)  Our tank would be in the basement and we would need a lifter pump.
Propane would give us the option of on demand water heater (http://www.rinnai.us/products/heatersfurnaces/index.asp), or typical gas fired water heater, and gas stove and gas dryer but I am not partial to the explosive nature gas.  Rinnai seems to be the one to get.  Our tank would be outside, below grade if we can afford it.

Hydrosil is out, found some negative reviews (http://www.customhomeonline.com/forum/viewthread.asp?forum=AMB_AP995724307&id=71&sectionID=223) of it.

Forced hot water is our fall back if we need the "central" heating as banks call it.  We liked the looks of the hydronic radiators (http://www.runtalnorthamerica.com/) but the cost is $5,000 for just the radiators.  We could possible pick and poke on eBay, but who knows if we can get the sizes we need.  I think you can use pex on these so perhaps a deal with a plumber where we do the install might work.  Probably not too hard to hide these pipes using closets to run upstairs or simply boxing them in along posts.  Again there is the choice of how to heat the water...electric-no, propane or oil.

Last resort is the forced hot air furnace route.  The ducts would need some clever placement in our house, I imagine we would lose one half of the storage areas upstairs to ductwork.

It is really sad that we can't just put in the wood stove with some registers and fans to heat this small, well insulated house...someday the banks will be more reasonable.  The one option we could still do is put in electric (boogie woogie woogie) base board heaters and just not use them. They are very cheap and we have a good connection with an electrician.  Of course then we have to look at the registers...unless the are removed after we roll the construction loan into the mortgage (or not if we get it done cheap enough). :D

With a little more research we are gonna give this cost calulator (http://hearth.com/fuelcalc/findoil.html) a shot and see what it computes.
edit-hrmm I don't trust the numbers generated from that site, they seem awfully high except for the wood based ones...

I suppose with all this new stuff you are putting in then a car radiator with a fan behind it is out? :-/ :)

Looking good, Daddymem and Mommymem.

My insurance guy makes a big distinction between "wood stove" and either "fireplace" or "masonry stove."  Ken Kern has a book with a site-built masonry stove that is ugly but can be used, with occasional flips of dampers for heating and cooking both on the stovetop or baking.  Don't ask me which book it is--I can't find mine.

Don't really need to go the route of the $30,000 Tulakivi to get a fine masonry stove.  Although they're very cute.

I've updated our blog for anyone interested. I posted the quotes we've received so far and the plans are up as well :)

Looking good, Mommymem - I have to remember that links to your blog and group are in your signature at tthe bottom of your postings-- but I will get it eventually. :-/

Bet you are getting really anxious to actually get to the building part!  Sounds like there is an incredible amount of running around doing the preliminary stuff - I wouldn't know 'cuz how we are building  ::).   Good blog.  I should have begun one when we 1st started building...  but at that time blogs weren't quite as accessible & we didn't have DSL & a whole bunch of other excuses...  now we have John's site - Country Plans...   :)... thanks John!

Without Countryplans we wouldn't be where we are today with this project. Everyone here has been very helpful and supportive and we appreciate that!

Daddymem/Mommymem

Have you considered using a combo heating/cooling unit such as:
http://www.abtelectronics.com/scripts/site/site_product.php3?source=nextagapp&id=5040

Oughta make the insurance guy happy ... no flame.  These things show up often in motels.  Are actually fairly efficient on moderate days.   Not too expensive ... might be the least cost to make your home meet certain criteria.

And later, install a wood burner as you like.

For room A/C heat combos we have one with a 1500 watt heater in it and one with a heat pump of similar size at out other place.

I had to order the heat pump special - because I thought it was cool.  Air to air - doesn't work well at least in that unit.  I'd say don't waste your time and money on the heat pump one.  The other is great for what is expected of it.

We are all set on the heat now.  Rinnai direct vent propane heater it is for under $2000 installed.  And a woodstove too; I'd love a Jotul.

I just purchased a Jotul F 3 CB about a week ago, not cheap but looks great. Wont get to use it until next winter though. Cabin is not even started yet. We have cleared the land and should start leveling a pad next week.   I really enjoy seeing the progress you guys are making back east.  Be glad your not in Bakersfield Ca. trying to get a building permit right now.  I have a set of plans for a 1520 sq. ft. home (spec house) in plan check right now, 8 week wait and if revisions need to be done and resubmitted another 8 weeks. Good luck, and like your posts.

Where's your cabin going, Joe?  Up the Canyon?

Cabin is going on Piute Mtn. Up the canyon, make a right at lake Isabella, go about 15 miles then make a left and go up the Mountain. We are @ 6,900 ft and up a pretty rough road. Just doing the preliminary work now, you know the stuff thats no fun, cutting out scrub oak and dirt work. The mild winter has been very good to us but I'm leary about getting started too soon on the construction. The upside is that I have been accumulating materials as the money permits. Flooring, windows, wood stove, pine paneling, and 1 door. Looking for good deals and it has been working out pretty good. I bought a few sets of plans from John and decided the 20x 30 1 story would be adequate for our needs and the level of difficulty is something I think I can handle. I built my house(acted as the general) and another spec house before but this will be different doing all the work. I'm pretty excited about the whole thing!
Maybe I can get up to see that underground house some day?

Absolutely - I was just thinking we may come down and see what you are up to.  Neat stuff down there.  I have been to the old mine and steam or gas engine to the right of Isabella - ate at the steak place that burned up the canyon- worked at Randsburg a couple days - collected rocks ---love the history and scenery around there.

Collecting things when they are cheap is a great way to go -- cheap or free.  
Then after you get enough piles of it accumulated you realize that you have enough to make something way cool without having to break the bank.

Huzzah!  
The journey has begun.
Good luck, 'mem guys!

Building permit goes in any day now...stay tuned and cross your fingers.

Good deal, Daddymem -- I can't wait for pictures of an engineer out there actually getting blisters on his lilly white hands. ;D

Whew-- I'm glad he doesn't have that V8 snow blower right now. :-/

My hands are nice and hard...I spend my weekends beating up troglodytes...seen any lately ;)

Wups----Not lately -- They are rather rare --I'll get back to you if I see one. :-/

I updated the blog on the progress with our permit application if anyone is interested. Sadly we weren't able to apply for our permit again this week. :(

 :)

Good going!  I read your blog yesterday & saw that the excavator had been delayed... I bet you are thrilled!

Wow---Daddymem got a big one. :)

Exciting.

The foundation hole is dug! They'll be setting forms and pouring on Monday. I've posted a video on our blog of one of the trees being knocked over if anyone is interested. Its kinda neat. Thank you all for your support and advice on getting our dream going. 5yrs and we're finally there!!

Yeah!!  That looks like one  BIG hole!  Have your kids been in it yet?  They'd probably love it.  8-) Nice sandy soil, not too messy...  ::)

Looking great Mommymem and Daddymem.  Nice to see that great big hole in the ground.

Congratulations! :bhumbsup

Isn't it  great to see something finally happening after all the hopes and plans and dreams.

Judy





//www.strawbaleredux.blogspot.com

When they were piling up the sand our 5  yr Justin was practically drooling dying to climb the mountains. Yesterday when we went over when they weren't working so he got to play in the sand hills and go down in the hole.  He had a blast! The lil 2yr old climbed halfway up a hill but we didn't let her go down in the pit, I was afraid she wouldn't come out.

Tomorrow they should be doing the forms and start pouring. Stay tuned for more photos!

Every cat in the neighborhood is going to love it too.--Easy diggin' :)

Oh you mean coyote food?   ;)  I think we're the only one with cats and they're indoors.

Exactly - our neighbors/our new cat Pedro is just recovering - fractured skull with part of it loose above the brain - top center.  Amazing he's doing just fine - Kathy gave him penicillin shots.  Just not quite as cute but he doesn't know that - partially scalped.  So you have coyotes too. eh?

Everybodies got coyotes , I think :-/  Well maybe not Block Island , R.I. although they have more deer than they need  ::)  BTW the deer where introduced on B.I. by the state at hunters request. Now all most all residents of B.I. have lymes disease  ::)

 article , http://www.igorilla.com/gorilla/animal/Block_Island_struggles_with_deer.htm

 Coyotes might be a better option ;)  

Deer are cute until they start eating everything in your garden on top the roof.  I refer to them as giant rodents.  Oh well - at least they are a fresh food supply if needed.

No kidding..wish we had the problem of too many deer...walking meat department :)

As long as they're moving it's still fresh.  Seen any good road kills lately????

Whodathunk?  "Where is the bulkhead on these drawings?" says I.  "Don't worry the contractor can handle it." says they.  "Don't worry about it, we can get that bulkhead in where you want it." says them.  So I didn't worry.  Along came footing time and contractor asks if we want to do a precast solution or pour.  He suggests precast at a cost of $900 total so I said sounds good.  Luckily before footing guys came, I did my homework and went to the place to buy precast bulkheads.  Well, they only come in a few standard sizes, so being the engineer that I am, I begin doing math and realize none of them will work.  We had to quickly do some sizing and I came up with a "napkin sketch" for the contractor so as not to put us behind schedule.  Contractor said I should be an architect since I could sketched like them (I am insulted  ;) )Glad I didn't worry  :-/  

FirstDay Cottages hang over the foundation based on how much insulation you have so the bulkhead installation has to account for that if it comes up high enough to attach to the house and not the foundation so we will have some short lenght of wall at the same elevation as the foundation that match the overhang of our walls.  Then the walls drop down to a reasonable height over finish grade so we don't have to step up to go down into our bulkhead.

Moral:  When someone says don't worry, don't believe them.  

Bulkhead is new to me out here -- is this correct?

3.  Chiefly New England --A horizontal or sloping structure providing access to a cellar stairway.

Yeah, cellar access (he says whilst sipping a coffee frappe):
http://www.bilco.com/downloadpopup.asp?file=Size-BasementDoor.pdf

Cool - I knew what it was after I saw the picture -just didn't know what it was from it's name - reminds me of Dorothy and Toto.  

Oh and first delivery of two for the house coming this week!

That's great, Daddymem.  I'll bet you guys are excited --

I suggest everyone check out mommymem's blog with pictures ---and see if you can find the alien checking out the project too.

(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/alien.jpg)

http://schluterhomestead.blogspot.com

That'd be our little dork--Jaja.

Here's where we've trapped the alien in the hole.

Cool - Is that a Star Trek uniform?

lol no, just happens to be a red shirt with black pants.

Very appropriate. ;D

That's Ensign #3...scheduled to die from some bright light type of weapon this episode.

Shhhhhhh don't tell anyone but Glenn just scabbed an image, cropped it, resized it and reposted it in a matter of minutes.  What's next? Photochopping?  (http://www.worth1000.com/) You've come a long way baby  ;D

Who knows-- I finally figured out Gadwin Printscreen - it's quick.    I didn't understand the zoom window at first or that you had to hit enter when happy with the selection - I suppose I should read directions instead of figuring that everything is intuitive, but that's no fun. :-/

Careful with that nailgun practice, Daddymem.

https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/nailhead051.jpg  Note -graphic image

http://www.cnn.com/2006/US/04/21/nail.gun.ap/index.html

Note:  The tweaker survived and made a full recovery.

I originally posted the image here, but since it is a bit graphic I changed it to a link only.  Don't want anyone choking on their FruitLoops.

 [size=12]A few years back didn't some framer cut his hand off with a skilsaw then proceed to shoot himself in the head with a 16 penny nail gun like 6 or 8 times ?? He lived as well. IIRC. What is it with these guys ???

 Tedd Benson in fine home building this month has a article about the downware trend of carpenters , annual issue , Houses .  " A dismal standard"   is the title . About a 3rd of the way in  , "The end of pride " chapter he talks about what a real carpenter is / should be,  a standard no longer held  :'(,

  " These were people of great dignity and pride who could do everything on the job site from forming the foundation to making the last cabinet. Only 35 years later , that breed is nearly extinct. . And that deep pride about being in the trades has all but faded away with them. "

 Yonks :o :o   [highlight]I'm almost extinct [/highlight]:o :o Well not shocking really  :'( :'(

But his point is well taken , most carpenters really ain't carpenters they're sub trades who don't know MTL why or what the next trade/ sub species of " carpenter"???sider / roofer / finish carpenter / cab. maker/ hardwood floor / is going to need , they know  enought to be dangerious / harmful . They're biggest concern is pay day, not the project.

 Guess I'll just fade away :'(

PEG  
 


   [/size]

I have found over the years - 32 years being self employed, that the problem with most of these guys is drugs.  I worked on a project in the San Jose area where the Foreman on the job said the reason he got it was that he was the only one in the Union Hall who could pass the drug test.  I'm sure the other ones who could pass the test were already working, but it's a pretty sorry state many of them are in.

When I was trying to earn a living as a carpenter in the mid-seventies, it was almost a badge of honor to have that cut through the thigh to the femur from the circular saw with the guard removed.

I was surprised and delighted when I briefly did some more pounding nails in the early eighties that nobody on that job removed saw guards any more.

We've got alot more updates on the blog. Lots of pictures too.  :)
http://schluterhomestead.blogspot.com/

We like pictures!  At this rate, Mommymem, another week or two & you'll be living in your new house!  ;)  :)

QuoteWe like pictures!  At this rate, Mommymem, another week or two & you'll be living in your new house!  ;)  :)

 [size=12]  

 Daddymem better get reallllllly busy :o Or I missed a lot of pictures  ;)

 PEG


[/size]  

Mommymem-- you can do the window thing yourself if you want it bad enough---contractors >:(  Seems he should pay for it if he deviated from the plan though.

They make dry diamond blades or abrasive masonry blades that can be used on a grinder or skilsaw.  Layout and cut from both sides - grind off the rebar-- get a cheap air chisel -muffler gun for your compressor to chip out the rest economically then put in the last window. A masonry cupstone or diamond grinder will smooth the cutout.  I would estimate 2 to 6 hours labor to do it. There may be considerations with cutting the rebar - probaby not a realistic concern but an engineer may want to add reinforfement across the bottom of the cut area or something.

Note that a rotohammer with a chisel is probably the best choice for demo'ing the hole but you may want to rent it as they are a bit expensive.  The saw cuts keep the edges clean.  This is standard industry practice where there are booboo's with concrete - many times they pay a big cutting contractor to bring a big saw and go all the way through.  It can be changed.  With the proper tools, concrete is far from the permanent thing it is generally perceived to be.

Hey...this isn't a race....as I tell all my coworkers when asked (with a smirk I might add, since noone can possibly build their own house) "How long is it gonna take (insert tehe)", "it will take as long as it takes."

The window thing sucks...but is a great example why you want to do things yourself if possible.  Contractors typically refuse to follow plans, they all know sooo much more than engineers, architects and homeowners and rarely turn down an opportunity to "stick their fingers in the batter."  I run into this all the time and this contractor acts just like the others when they get caught in a mess they made...blame it on everyone else.  The problem we have now is he has given us good prices on a lot of things (not paid for yet) and I don't want to push back too hard and risk "discovering" additional costs down the road.  The reality is both FirstDay and the contractor messed this up.  Our foundation plans were a little lacking and the contractor repeatedly revealed he didn't read the plans and when he finally did proceded to poke holes (so he thinks) in them.  In the end, I had to "design" the foundation where it pertains to the bulkhead (cellar door) area...something I do not believe I should have had to do, thankfully I am an engineer so it wasn't too hard.  

This got messed up literally by minutes...Mommymem was there when the second concrete truck came up but she had to go to her hospice patient.  Our contractor came minutes after her, and after the foundation guys had placed the windows in the correct location, and told them they screwed up and ordered them to put the windows where you see them now.  Somebody, (if there were a few brain cells actually on this site at this point) should have said that Mommymem was there and said different.  That would be when a contractor (with a working brain cell) would have said to himself "I better call and get this right," and all would be well at Pine Tree Manor. Oh well, not too much longer until the contractor gets off my property and I can do all the major screw ups on my own.  ;)  Besides, think he is going to get referals from me anymore??? ::)

P.S. sorry if I have offended any contractors, there are actually a few decent ones out there (I thought mine was one of them), so if you are offended, put yourself in the decent category and ignore my rant  :D

Well live and learn , Eh.

I'm a contractor too, but still agree with you.  I think it may run between 20 to 50% good contractors who do what they say they will for the price they say they will.

Engineers - I would say 20 to 50% are good - the rest are so-so to poor.  It is always a pleasure to work with one who knows his stuff.

Homeowners dealing fairly with a contractor--- not adding things for the same cost - changing their minds after things are done per plan also 20 to 50%.

Not that I am referring  to anybody here on the forum as we have a great group of people.  Misunderstandings happen also. I am referring to my past experience with other contractors and homeowners.  The stuff some contractors pull makes me feel bad about calling myself one sometimes.  

The company I sub for regularly sends me in to correct other sub-contractors problems.  The boss there mentioned that either their company or my company were the only ones that he never had problems with.

I don't know what the structural offices are like, but I can vouch for the Civil Site Design shops (I am in one).  Everyone is on the fast track to becoming a Project Manager it seems.  Meanwhile, I am going kicking and screaming.  Noone understands why I am reluctant to take charge of projects.  I don't because I want to do the real work, learn the ropese and then I will progress on to managing projects...understanding what work is being done by those working for me...because I have done that same work myself.  Mentoring in engineering firms has gone down the toilet, I suspect contractors and architects are the same way....everyone in a rush to be the boss, missing all the experience along the way.  I got PE with twice my experience, being paid huge six figure salaries that come to me to do things that I barely break a sweat on...because they can't figure it out themselves...not a good sign for engineers.

You are the kind of engineer I like to work with.

Many PM's don't know their a$$ from a hole in the ground.  Seems the first thing a lot of them have to learn to do is lie.  I don't know why - it usually catches up to them.  Then there are the 20 to 50% of good ones. :)

Fast track sucks - I usually try to turn down those jobs.  That includes, Home Depot - Costco -Lowes etc.

aye..the "big boxes" as they call them.

Looking at heater sites, found this one which really trashes Monitor Heaters.  Don't know if it's true, but it certainly got my attention as I look at heating options.

http://www.alsheating.com/MonitorHeaterProblemsComplaintsRepairs.htm

Any feedback?

Did the "-mem crew" decide to avoid the Monitor heaters at least partly because of that site?

I  think we decided that Al isn't totally crazy and there could be problems with the Monitors.  A friend had to rebuild one at a pretty high cost -- and this year we are having trouble keeping ours going - first year in 7 or so - possibly got condensation and dirt in the line again.

Yeah, Al got us in that direction...then a few more places stating similar sealed the deal...Riannai it is.  
Blog updated.

I am impressed and what cute rugrats!  Great blog, Sarah.  Tell us about your tool skills.  Which have you used to this point?  Reading your blog it sounds like you are gaining skills.

http://schluterhomestead.blogspot.com/

Daddymem, you really aren't afraid of work!  Great job - I don't know why you ever had any question about your ability to do this project.

Mommymem & Daddymem that looks really good. When I look at your pictures I'm getting jealous and want to start building again.

Jochen

I'm learning to love my tool belt...I even find myself automatically reaching for things and finding them the first time.  I'm pretty skilled with the speed sqaure, and the framing hammer and my noggin.  I got a little work to do on skil saw skills and nailgun...sheathing sound perfect for that since it gets covered anyways.  FirstDay has been a tremendous help and these houses really are easy...lots of work, but all the tasks are basic.  I almost have claw hand and my knees are pretty bruised from doing flooring...even with the knee pads.  Sarah is incredible, I think she even surprises herself.  Got a bunch of wood to come this week.  All our frame is cut out, save the rafters.  Got 22 box beams to put together and first floor decking to finish..then we can raise the posts and boxbeams for the second floor.  Boy this wood is gorgeous!  Eurograde is very impressive stuff.  

I haven't used many tools yet but I think I'm getting to the point where I may need my own tool belt instead of the $.99 apron. I have to keep looking around for my hammer and thats just a pain.

The tools I have used so far is the bowrench while helping lay the decking. John and I were working on box beams and I got to shoot a couple nails with the nail gun before Scott did. Was kinda neat but it took 2 hands to hold it! Mostly my skills are moving wood around to places its needed :)

Glenn- Thanks for the compliments on the blog. Since things are moving along quickly now I'm trying to keep it better updated.

I'm curious about what a nitrogen easement is. Is that a conventional leach line system on a parcel owned by another?

QuoteI'm learning to love my tool belt..

So -- break out the wallet and get Sarah one too.  I think she can handle it. :)

I use your blog and posting's as an example of what people can learn from our forum, Sarah.  It's great that you have been here the whole time from thinking about it and wondering if you could do it to actually making it reality.  Great job.

QuoteI'm curious about what a nitrogen easement is. Is that a conventional leach line system on a parcel owned by another?

In MA, we are limited to 1 bedroom per 10,000 sq ft of land owned (written in the books as 440 gpd per acre-do the math at 110 gpd per bedroom, and builder's acre=40,000 sf) in nitrogen sensitive areas which also includes lots with both private septic and water.  I'll use my situation for clarity.  I own ~25,000 sf so only 2 bedroom house is allowed.  State says 3 bedroom minimum system size.  My neighbor has ~70,000 sf of land and only 4 bedrooms so she has "extra bedrooms" in her land.  I can use her "extra bedrooms" via an easement.  The easement is a legal document that get recorded against her property and mine limiting her to what she can do in this area...no golf course, no buildings, no chicken farm...etc.  My system in still on my property and I cannot build anything on her property, I just claim her bedrooms.  

The situation above is not common, especially in the land of NIMBY.  The more common situation is a developer with a large piece of land may want to sell small lots in a cluster form (think Chapin's pocket neighborhoods) and set aside the rest of the land for conservation restrictions.  Each lot would claim bedrooms from the conservation land in the form of a nitrogen easement so they can build their homes and septic.  We did that on Nantucket Island for 14 10,000 sf vacation home lots around a short cul-de-sac and open space in the back of the property.

Quote

QuoteI'm learning to love my tool belt..

So -- break out the wallet and get Sarah one too.  I think she can handle it. :)

A tool belt for mother's day wouldn't be all bad ;)

IMHO, too many pockets means you'll never find anything!

I had trouble with one-pocket pouches on a belt--after a bad day I could tell when I'd had an extra 7/16ths wrench in there--and they ain't very heavy.  Balanced is nice.

But there's nothing like feeling that you're working when you strap that thing on.  (The relief when the load--four big pockets filled with 16-penny nails, for instance, comes off is nice too)

Bummer about the rain, Sarah.  I was wondering if you guys were drowning there.  Hope all get well and the rain stops so you can strap on that new tool belt and get to work.  He did get it for you didn't he?

Nope, we were gonna head out Saturday but the kids were still sick and Sarah was sick and I was fighting a battle with my breakfast and lunch....I lost.  Mother's Day is postponed to this weekend this year.

Sounds like nearly any weekend will be better than that one. :-/

All better now, we hope (although it's always a bummer to get healthy for Monday going-to-work after being sick as a dog on Sunday).

We have all recovered and eager to get back to work on the house.

And I did get a tool belt for mother's day :) Yay! No more searching for my hammer.

Great -- I can see production increasing already.

We got our slab poured today and it went very well! I updated the blog with lots of pics and even me wearing my new tool belt :)

Great job - the floor looks nice from what I see--That tool belt looks nice too. Very professional. :)

http://schluterhomestead.blogspot.com/

More updates, lots of pictures :)

Nice Bulkhead  :) looks like a Bilco is it ? T&G stock looks very nice . I wouldn't get to anal about the place getting wet , it will . The tarps will hold water pockets , get you soaked , leak , etc .  Some times with wood if it's gonna get wet,  it's better it all does, sort of the same  , less water spotting cuz some was ,some wasn't ,grain all raises not just some , keeps MC equal etc .  

A lot of work that IMO isn't going to gain the return for the effort. Heck it's summer in NE . It will dry out, real wood can take more than you'd think more than plywood or OSB .

On a remodel ya , ya gotta keep it all dry , or die trying to save S/R/ plaster , hardwood floors etc .

Ya it would be nice to keep it all dry and clean but MTL that ain't gonna happen.

It really looks good and at this rate you'll be in the dry in no time , beat  fall / winter , that's the real goal I'd think .

 Keep it up you'll be in the dry in no time  ;)  

Good luck , PEG

Great blog, great friends helping friends, great job, Sarah and Scott.

Great looking ceilings!! It makes me excited for T&G pine in our cabin. Your updates and photos are great for the rest of us that are playing the waiting game on getting the actual building part of the project started. THANKS! :)
deertracks

The importance of keeping it dry has to do with the floors.  We need all the wood more or less at the same moisture content.  Once the deck is on, the wood can swell and shrink together instead of having the decking swell up from being wet but the planks not installed yet not swollen.  Hope that is clearer than  it sounds.

Now, once the upper deck is on, should we bother tarping at all?  Our next step is framing out the window and door openings, then sheathing for the first floor, then rafters.  If it rains hard and we don't tarp at all, won't we get leaks into the basement?  What if we took the two tarps and wrapped around the first floor and left the second floor exposed to keep the rain outta the basement?

Also, the shrink and swell has been incredible already.  Where there were no gaps on the first floor, there are now.  I would think swelling would fill them up, but when it gets dried in would it shrink more, or less to what it is dry now?

Bilco bulkhead of course  ;)

Now...the floors.  We just can't decide how to finish them.  They are 2x6 European Spruce.  The problem around here is there is sand sand sand and sand.  Poly coating grinds down pretty good.  We have 2 kids, 2 cats, and three dogs so any surface has to take abuse.  Any ideas on a durable surface.  We aren't looking for perfection, the worn look is better.  Rick told us about a primer applied after sanding that fills in the cracks, but he wasn't sure what that was, just saw it once.  FirstDay suggested boiled linseed oil.  I know it sounds early to think about finishing them, but depending on what finish we do, we could do something right now such as apply a thin poly coat just to temporarily seal them.  Any thoughts?

I'll remember and give thanks..will you? (http://www.remember.gov/)

Limewash?

Nothing?  Eventually it would get a nice patina.

Like ships used--wet and/or wash down scrub with holystones and flog dry every morning (or every couple of weeks)?  (edges wouldn't get as much stoning  :( ) That combination mostly took the abuse of cannons rolling back and forth on the decks!  Somebody mentioned the stoned finish in something recent I read, so apparently people still know about it.  It leaves a kind of fuzzy surface.

Most of the all-natural--e.g., linseed oil--finishes are subject to wear.  It's really recommended that people leave their shoes and boots at the door if you use them--and an absorbent mat in the entry and keep the critters' toenails trimmed--especially the dogs'--it's usually easier than doing the cats')  I had a pair of dogs once that could be told to "SHAKE" before they came in when it rained.

I have know builders who had good luck with water sealers. These are very thin flood coatings that soak into the wood and provide waterproofing and sealing properties.

http://www.wolman.com/product_category.asp?CatID=80 - Wolman products
http://www.thompsonswaterseal.com/products/waterproofers.asp - Thompson products.

You would get some help with moisture control and greatly cut down the staining and spotting. It also hardens the surface and provides wear resistance without a plastic coating.

Quote

I'll remember and give thanks..will you? (http://www.remember.gov/)

Yes...http://www.thetrenchmovie.com

Judy

 Thats what I was saying same as you equal Moisture Content = MC.  Water in spots will raise the grain in spots  , [highlight]water all over raises the grain all over, no spots[/highlight].

As far as water in the basement,   ya,  so what it's cement , it will dry out :)

Of course the way it's been raining back  there it might fill up to the floor joist :o :o

How bad where those storms a couple of weeks ago?

I'm from Burrillville , RI org. moved out here with the navy in 1978 , still have a sister in Harrisville , RI .

  Ah back to your place , even if you have to pump / shop vac the basement dry after the roof is on , oh well , it is what it is , not really that big a deal, IMO.

 Now the sand,  thats the killer. That will damage your floors as it sounds like you'd like them to be the finish floor in the place .

I'd put , and do this on all my jobs , some scrapes of plywood at each door to try to catch some of the sand , have people kick there boots, as clean as possible each time they walk in, on the foundation , it helps some .

I also use a elec. leaf blower , [highlight]best broom I ever purchased[/highlight]  ;D, when you get a dry day or ,when ever possible clean the floor up with that , Blow the crap out the door holes , if you have sill plates in the door openings cut then out ASAP helps with water draining and also makes sweeping ;) / blowing easier.

Your oldest kid might be able to be the blower operator , teach um how much fun it is  ;)

 As far as temperory sealants , Tompsons might work , IMO (sorry John) it is almost  worthless. So for a temp seal it might work .

  The linseed oil will darken the floors and  ANY oil you use now will

 #1 Attract and hold sand.

 #2 Will need to be sanded off, unless it wears off, pryor to the real finish you'll be appling .

  #3 For a finish floor on that Spruce I'd look at a water based product that has a hardener that you add  just before you apply it . It will always be a "soft wood " floor so the dogs toenails will be a issue , but if your a  realist it will have that warm NE "feel" in no time ;)

 You can sand it down as on of the last things you do with a power floor sander , try and rent a Hummell . Or one of the new multi headed random orbit floor sanders , you'll have to do the edges , corners with a hand held unit . That will clean it all up , vac it then finish it.

I can find the name of that finish if your interested, I think.  
  I got it from a local floor sales guy I'm friends with.    

If you have gaps in the first floor decking that is what you should expect. real wood will swell,  then shrink back once it is dry.

  Inside the house in summer the MC might go as low as 8 or 9 % I'd guess in NE , In winter if you heat with wood  the MC could go as low as 4 or 5%  also a guess.

But the heating season of your house will be when it is the dryist for MC .

 Think about wooden boats , old ones for a minute , they are put in the water in spring (((Think small row boat and pond now , not a full time wet boat , ))   , they sink or dang near sink . You pump / bail them out  few days later and they have swollen up tight . They float , might leak a bit if you run a outboard on one from vibartion .   But once they swell they float.

Now in fall ya pull the same boat out and it drys , even though its getting snowed on / rained on the MC gets lower , cracks / openings show up that you can see light thru etc .

Real wood,  not plywood will shrink and swell for a very long time , if bugs , mold , dirt that holds bugs and mold etc are kept at bay.

Hope this helps explain what I'm talking about .

But yes if your seeing gaps that is what you'll be living with .

Lumber even KD lumber in a lumber yard / pile on the site is no where near as dry as it will be once the roof is on.

[highlight] I will remember how my freedom was gained , and I will be praying for all those currently deployed to gain freedom for others .[/highlight] A worthy cause IMO.

Former AE-1 PEG :)

     

When You Come Home (http://www.beliefnet.com/nllp/Inspiration.aspx?WT.mc_id=Inspiration03&date=05-29-2006#)

Daddymem & Mommymem, I am really amazed at the progress you have made on you place!  I look forward every week to seeing what you have accomplished!  Looking good.  Sassy

Daddymem it will be nearly impossible to protect your softwood floor against wear. Moni has also 2 x 6 spruce as finished floor in her house for around 4 years now. And heating the entire house with a woodstove has dried the spruce in some areas so much, that you can nearly throw a hammer through the gaps. But on the other hand, when the children will loose a toy upstairs there is a good chance to find it downstairs in the living room.  ;)  With children and pets, we have also dogs and cats, you have to sand and recoat you floor several times over the lifespan of it. But as you already said, some "rustic imperfections" just belongs to a wooden floor.  ;)
Jochen

Quote
I can find the name of that finish if your interested, I think.  
  I got it from a local floor sales guy I'm friends with.    
     

Yes please.

More rain rain rain rain rain rain rain this weekend again.  :'(  I might be able to get those last four boards up , the simpson plates on, and start window/door framing between deluges...if I get lucky.  We got the stuff in the cellar up on blocks and tarped over, hope it doesn't fill up too much, it shouldn't...we left a 1-foot gap at the end of the bulkhead floor-less.

I guess we'll let it be for now and decide how to finish later. Yes, this is our finish floor.  I want my CO, then we can put down other materials in the future if we wish.  I really would love a vermont slate entryway and carry that over into the living room with a similar hearth under the woodstove and wall behind it....we'll see.  Shoes off will definitely be a rule...but we know what happens with rules.  Our dogs are anything but easy to nail trim, our cats are actually easier-they may get declawed anyways, I think the house would be a giant scratching post to them and we really don't want them going outside over there anyways...no need to feed the coydogs.

I was in the National Guard, served on Otis here in Bourne, and Fort Rich in Alaska, so yeah...I remembered.

Daddymem this is the one I used on my floor's .  House built 1954 Red oak "shorts" very common flooring back then , I sanded to bare wood then filled with a water based wood filler then sanded with a drum sander , a Hummell was not avaiable in my area at that time and the new multi head random orbit's where not made then either , this re finish was done in the early 90's .

Then IIRC I had 3 gals of finish which was about a gal "to much" but I had the time , my wife was away on a planed visit (she doesn't do well with dust, lung ,  breathing issues ) anyway I had the time and it was summer and the finish dries very fast with good ventlation and warm / not humid temps. I could do 3 coats a easy in a day. Not a 8 hr day but a DTY day  :) I may have put on about 8 coats easy to apply IMO not a bad idea ;)

 http://www.allprocorp.com/techbuls/CoroTB/2450TB31921WBFlrFinAcrUre.cfm

 The two part stuff is much better than a one part off the shelf water borne IMO.
 
Good luck , PEG
 

Here's another good site never used this brand but the info is good  ;)

http://www.hillyard.com/ProductsServices/Programs/WOOD.HTM#2

A concrete contractor used an oil based urethane to coat exterior main entrance colored stamped concrete at a major shopping mall in Fresno.  Should be pretty good stuff.  About an acres worth of solvent evaporating into the air at one time made this my first huffing experience.  Made me want to go listen to  Laquerhead (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laquerhead).

Thanks!

Nice new pictures and a couple cute kids!

http://schluterhomestead.blogspot.com/

I am pretty excited about the well -- Is that a type of cap over a pitless adapter - water goes out underground for frost protection?

Your description sounds about right...the water does come out down around 4 feet to be out of the frost zone.  Pretty good document on private well guidelines in our area, including sketches can be found here (http://mass.gov/dep/water/laws/prwellgd.pdf).

Bump for a little progress in between rain storms.  [smiley=vrolijk_1.gif]
http://schluterhomestead.blogspot.com/

You don't have to hog all the rain -- we could use a bit again now.  Progress in spite of rain is good though.

We didn't get as much done as we'd hoped to with a 4 day weekend. Those rafters were not fun to make, but we got em done! We weren't able to set the rafters up yet since they were far to heavy for just 2 of us to handle. We're watching the weather to see if its going to rain this weekend or not to get them up.

That looks like a job for a boom truck. :-/

24' rafters have gotta be killer. It's best to make 'em all and then lift 'em all.  For your project, I would get another two friends for the day, two people for each side. 24' would get too unwieldy. Call it "lifting day" and offer to BBQ lunch.

At least you only have to raise them a few feet. We did 12 16' rafters on 5' kneewalls in a few hours. There was 3 of us, but it could have been done with 2 easily. Being able to help with that (and meeting John and seeing his house) convinced me it was doable for me to build a house.
I've got 18' rafters on my house with the same 5's kneewall. Should be interesting.

Yeah, we decided it would be best to get some recruits. My brother & sis-in-law are coming to visit in a couple weeks so that'll be some help plus our friend, Rick who's been helping us almost every weekend. But no matter what work we happened to be doing on any weekend I always feed the help.  :)

It should really look like a house after that.  :)

I look forward to viewing your "weekend progress" at the start of each week. Things are finally drying out here on the west coast and hopefully now that summer is officially here the rain won't be a factor and you can have every opportunity for moving along with your project. It's looking great... thanks for sharing.

I gotta give my props to Mommymem.  Her blog is incredible.  Aside from bouncing things off me once in a while and a few typo/spelling corrections from me here and there, it has all been hers and she has made me pretty durn proud of her.  I think I'll keep her  ;)

Probably not much done this weekend...it is the off one so that means rain.  Mad rain-bloody hot-mad rain-bloody hot-mad rain...I think I get the pattern now.

Here, Daddymem---trade weather with you----  our low here on the Mountain last night was about 83.

Wow Glenn... no wonder you wanted to be underground. It's cooler down there!!

HOT HOT HOT:

Rat now it's 1400 and 102 degrees - our worm up doesn't start until about 1700 - forcast sez 106 degrees.  Sat = 110 degrees. Ouch!

The thing around here is that when the heat comes...so comes the humidity.  Same goes for the cold.  I've been in Georgia at 114F and it is worse here in the 90s with humidity.  I've been in Fairbanks  at -55F and it is worse in the single digits here with the moisture.  Why stay?  Because between those rare extremes, the weather is generally fabulous.  It is very nice to have real seasons.

I feel for you guys... this rain has been testing our window weatherstripping ..oh wait ..we don't have any  :o

We can't start to put siding on our firstday b/c of the rain and the co. putting driveway in is 2 weeks back b/c of constant rain.   Hopefully this will end as we hope to finishing up in a mo or so!


good so see you guys making some good progress.  It's really neat to see the trusses on.

Looks like the weather is actually gonna work with us this weekend.  I've got 5 days off to work on this house and some people coming to give a hand.  Wish us luck.

I'll bet you really make some progress. :)

What almost became the 2nd named storm of the season will be way past you by then?

Rain tonight..showers clearing in the morning finally.  Then some clear sky for a bit...finally.  

Hope you make a lot of progress. All of us CP folks will be anxious to see the pics. Have a happy 4th! Just think... next 4th of July you will be living in your nice house and probably planning a deck or some outside project.

QuoteWe've got rafters!!
Check out the blog for more pictures and updates. :)

http://schluterhomestead.blogspot.com/

Good job, Mommymem,
You guys are really ripping into it. Looks like you'll be almost closed in by the time the weekends over.  :)

Hope we can get it closed up this weekend.  Fireworks tonight, possible rain Sunday afternoon and rain on Tuesday shore don't help none. :-/

Really looking great, Daddymem and Mommymem.  You've come a very long way from wondering if you could do it. :)

About this time, if you were on a framing crew, you'd be wondering if your boss had any more work lined up.

Plenty more work, of course, but the work will be quite a bit different--roofing, plumbing, electric, and so on

Phew! Lots of updates and pictures on the blog. What a long weekend but very rewarding!
Happy 4th!!  [smiley=2vrolijk_08.gif] [smiley=2vrolijk_08.gif]

I am amazed at how much you guys are getting done!  Looks wonderful!   :)

What a change this week -- really looking great.  

Mommymem or Daddymem, I haven't looked back to see if it is mentioned somewhere but I assume that is the interior finish then you get a layer of foam then an exterior finish?

I found the plans in the Feb. Archive -- looks like Typar - couple layers of foam and an exterior wall.

You are correct Glenn. So after we finish the roof and 2nd floor gable ends we get to start putting up the foam. Already looks like a nice forcast for this coming weekend so we should get the roof and 2nd floor done.

Do electric and plumbing go through the foam cavity or surface mount?

The norm is to put the wiring on the outside between the foam and the siding and cut through the foam into the house for outlets etc.  We might put ours behind a short wainscotting.  Plumbing is all internal with ins/outs through the cellar wall.

Bump for more progress :)
http://schluterhomestead.blogspot.com/

Getting on!

Serious progress, you guys!
I go away for a week or so and you all of the sudden have a house!

Scott, Sarah and your helpers... You should be very proud of your work - it looks great. I love the good photos of your loft area because I'm having a hard time visualizing how much room we will have upstairs. How high will your kneewalls be? There's a great book by Black and Decker on storage built-ins for basements and attics with a really great idea for built in drawers in the knee wall area. I would love to hear about any storage ideas you have for that space.

Its not really a loft area.. the house is considered a 1 and 1/2 story. Our bedrooms and bath will be upstairs with a 3' kneewall. We haven't fully decided if we'll put the actual knee-wall up or just the posts and make shelving. If the walls go up there will be 3' behind the post for storage.

You can check out our floor plans on the blog here.
http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/6574/2099/1600/Page2.png

I think I make sense...If not let me know :)

How's your experience been with the building inspectors?

We've only had 1 inspection so far (foundation) but I've been working with the 2 guys in the Town office here for over a year. I went in often enough with questions and stuff they've started harassing me about loitering and one offered me my own desk. I've stopped in and showed pictures of the progess and they seemed excited about seeing it. There is another guy building a FirstDay in the area who has the same inspectors so they are sort of familiar with the system. So to sum up, I'd have to say the experience with the inspectors has been good :)

I guess Daddymem and Mommymem have been pretty busy - progress continues. :)

http://schluterhomestead.blogspot.com/

I'd wondered what happened to them.

The octopus is amazing.

They are certainly moving along quickly!  Every week they get an amazing amount of building done!  And it looks beautiful  :) - I miss reading their posts on CP.

What a wonderful house - it has that real traditional Cape Cod feel.  I really like the metal roof and also the wood interior.  I was just up in Cape Cod visiting with my son's in-laws in Truro - a beautiful area.  This was my first time on the Cape.  Did a lot of hiking and of course some swimming in the bay (even though the water was a little cold - I am used to the warmer waters here in Maryland.  Also went into Wellfleet and really like it - a nice little downtown area - a real country feel.  The Cape is a unique place and your house fits right in.  Great job!!

Jim

Hi guys,
Yes we've been very busy lately. I was still reading posts here and there but never posting. We've been working alot and getting alot done. Daddymem is on vacation this week so we're getting tons done. We started working on the exterior today. Check out the blog for pics :)

http://schluterhomestead.blogspot.com/

Glad to see you are well but busy.  

We haven't forgotten you and check on you every so often.  Great job. :)

Going to be a comfy house...It looks great..Just about done...As if the work is ever really done ;)

A little update.. All the interior walls are done, plus some plumbing and electrical. Check out the blog for pics :)
http://schluterhomestead.blogspot.com/

Thanks for the update, Mommymem.  You guys  have really been getting after it. :)

I was just looking at your blog yesterday & all the progress, so had to check it out again today - looks great!

Looks really great.  Must feel very satisfying.

Looks like PEX is even easier (if that's possible) with no joists.

Septic is in! :)

Checked out your progress, Mommymem and Daddymem.  Great job.  You guys and friends never give up.  It's hard to believe you have gotten this far this fast. :)

Looks beautiful! I was a little disappointed last weekend when you didn't post anything, then I remembered you guys were going camping - but you had plenty of progress to post since then - great job!  Do you have any idea when you can move in?  I am continually amazed at what so many on CountryPlans are accomplishing - especially the 1st time builders.   8-)

Thanks guys for the support. :)

We got our woodstove installed today. Can't wait to sit by the fire with Daddymem. :)
http://schluterhomestead.blogspot.com/

Lots of progress --- getting close. :)

Mommymem - WOW  8-) You guys have done outstanding!  

Mommymem,
were did you get the flashing for the chimney to fit the grooves for the metal roof.
I couldn't find anything that looked liked it would work and not let water leak end.
Kevin

We didn't have to supply that. It came with the install by the guy we hired to do it. I can give him a call though if that would be of some help for you.

That would be great. Thanks
Kevin

I check your blog quite often, Daddymem and Mommymem.  Your progress is outstanding.  How do you feel about your attempt at building your own house now?  I remember when you were wondering if you could do it. :)

Can we be done now? We're soooo tired from working on it every weekend. I'm over there pretty much every day doing staining or something. But after being tired and grumpy from working so hard its nice to sit and look around and say hey we did this!

Have you figured out what is finally going to signal to yourselves that you are done (bearing in mind that a house is never done)?

For instance, I think that Jonnie and Cecelia moved a pot of marmalade into the new kitchen, even posted a picture for us.

It might help with the grumpies, and besides it ought to be fun.

You guys have really made some good progress!  I know the feeling, Mommymem - seems like you'll never finish. but how wonderful that you are just a few weeks from moving in!  The place looks great!  

Great work and the end is in sight (or is at least postponable!)  ;)

After your well deserved R&R, all the work and tiredness will slide away and just be a story. You will have the product of that work to live in for a long time!

My 89 year old dad, who built his own house at 60 (http://www.countryplans.com/thought-ex.html) told me that sometimes he looks up at a beam or other complex part of his house and says, "I know I built that, but for the life of me I can't remember how! Seems impossible now."

John, hey, Glenn & I are getting close to that age!  :o  The place your dad built is really nice - goes to show you're never too old... in fact, a lot of discoveries & great achievements are accomplished by people over 50  :) I used to think 60 was old, at the hospital when a patient is less that 65, I call him a youngster  ;D... how times have changed from the motto "don't trust anyone over 30" (I think that's how it went...  :-? )

Sassy was asking about the size of your house - looking back at the plans I pick up 24 x 40 I think - didn't see the length posted.

Your project is as usual, looking great.

24x32 with a 2 foot kneewall upstairs over a full basement downstairs.  Just enough for us and the rugrats...until they demand each their own room. ;)  Gotta say this tank is beginning to run low, good thing the end is coming soon enough.  Then on to repairs on this shack to sell it  :-[

You've done an amazing job, Daddymem and Mommymem.  

I knew you could overcome your engineer programming. :)

If I had my way I'd be done with it for good. :P

Wish I lived closer -- I'd buy you guys a beer. :)

beer...beer...OH! you mean BEAH! Ya I'd take you up on that offa of a beah.  :D

Sorry about the mis-spelling.  I forgot where I was for a moment. :-/

Ya , ya got Engish and then ya have New Englander english.  Up the stairs you throw me my hat!, Kars (car), Cabinet (for a milk shake , RI only )  Frap(sp) most other NE states , Lantin (lantern) . Yes a whole new language almost ::) No wonder I can't spell worth a darn , I used to be fleunt in NElander/ R.I. lingo ;D

Rhode Island is a state?  I thought it was a chicken. :)

QuoteRhode Island is a state?  I thought it was a chicken. :)

 It's both ya wing nut ::) ;D

Rhode Island is a state of mind

And a corrupt one to boot :o ::)

Merry Christmas Gang.

Those two are the cutest little munchkins -- not mischievous are they?

The place looks great.  What an accomplishment. :)

Yes, indeed, a serious accomplishment

Looks so nice!  And homey - I was pleasantly surprised that you'd posted a bunch more pics since last weekend  :) ... are you staying there some, now?  Not too much longer - all that sanding...  I've done my share of it but not near as much as you guys are doing...  :-/  But it all looks great!

We aren't staying there yet. Although tempting! Everyone thought it was going to take us forever to do the floors since we were doing them by hand. It only took roughly a week and they are done! Now if we could get my countertop in we could get our CO and officially move.

It looks so liveable already  :) - you guys have done a fantastic job - so quickly, too - (although it probably doesn't seem like it to you).  People are always asking me if we are done with our place (we've been working on it going on five years this summer.  But we lived in it when we just had plastic walls & dirt floors so...  ;)  There's so many different things we've done & Glenn has done the majority except for what I could help him with & a little bit of help here & there from friends/family.  Ours is an on-going project - keeps us out of trouble & it's fun to see what else Glenn comes up with...

Well late last night the crew came in and started installing the countertop! There's been a huge disaster at the shop and the guy taking over is trying to sort through all the customers that got screwed. We're the first ones to get taken care of. Thankfully we were a small job! More details and pics on the blog!
http://schluterhomestead.blogspot.com

The place is really looking great. :)

Well as of today we are now official. The inspector signed off and I picked up our certificate of occupancy!!

There's a [highlight]milestone! [/highlight]  :D

Congrats - you're an offical homeowner.

Thanks, now to start fixing up the house we currently live in so we can dump that mortgage!

That is great - the "official" blessing.  Now you can do what you want without worry.  It may seem like a long time to you but it was really pretty fast. :)

Glenn wrote:

QuoteThat is great - the "official" blessing.  Now you can do what you want without worry.  It may seem like a long time to you but it was really pretty fast.

Yes to both parts of that!

Finally got some pictures updated. Sorry for the delay Sassy!!  :-[

Thanks Mommymem!  You'd left me hanging  :-/ - I'd read a new chapter every week on your blog & right at the climax of the story you stopped posting!  Beautiful home, you guys did a wonderful job - I'm sure you're really enjoying the fruits of your labor  :) .  

Thanks for the update Mommymem.  Daddymem - could you please slow down with the shelves --- Sassy will be wanting more now. :-?

hmmmm... I was going to mention what wonderful storage you have!  :D

i love having so much storage, never enough!!
i posted some updates on the blog finally.. i'll get back to doing the blog regularly i promise!

Hi Mommymem!  I'm sure you are enjoying your new home - especially having built it yourselves  :)  Tried to put a comment on your blog but I have so many passwords for work etc couldn't remember what I'd signed on to post...  :-/  I guess I should get busy on my blog - so much gets posted on CountryPlans that I feel it's duplication... Looking forward to more pics when you get a chance.

We are selling our old house now that we are in our new one and I have to replace the roof.   The shingles are breaking off in high winds and portions are covered in moss.  Two small sections (10' each) require new soffit boards and drip edge.  I don't know if there are any soft spots.  There are two levels to the roof, one section is about 10' long, the other is about 24' long, the house is 18' wide.  
Here is a picture of it: our old house (http://bp3.blogger.com/_cw43EvaDbbM/RhZBD_SMp0I/AAAAAAAAAmA/Pv2LvNvivDw/s1600/IMG_0051%5B1%5D)

Our Realtor is a friend of ours and there are two differing opinions on what to do on this roof between her and her husband.  He says we should strip the roof entirely and repair any soft spots all the trim boards and drip edge and start new with snow and ice shield and felt.  She says just throw new shingles over the ones there and replace whatever  trim pieces need it.  (there is only one layer)  I know what I would do if I were staying here.  I've never done a roof before but I think I got a good idea what to do and actually found some pretty detailed instructions on the Hammer Zone: Re-roof (http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/roof/maintenance/reshingle/prep/tear_off.htm)  I should be able to round up some help but was thinking of stripping it and patching it myself on a weekday and have the help roofing it on the weekend.  If I can't rustle up some help it looks daunting time wise and would likely require days unprotected from rain.  If I shingle over there is no weather issues.  Take this weekend for example, I had help lined up if the weather held out but it didn't.  It isn't raining, just about to rain any minute and is supposed to shower all weekend.  If I was re-shingling I could be up there now and stop when it started raining and go back when it dried out again.  I could even hit it after work when I got the chance.  It seems to me that a whole reroof is a race to get it all done before any rain comes.  I do have a few very large tarps that would easily cover the whole roof so I guess I could tarp it between felt and shingle work if it came to that.  
This house is by no means a palace.  It is an old cape cod weekend get away cottage.  It is 612 sf, poorly laid out and built at three different time periods.  It is on the low end of the market around here.  The house is in ok shape, it needs to be resided with new windows. It is on a tiny lot but it is in a great location.  We put in peel and stick vinyl and will have a new septic system put in.  Here is the listing: Realtor listing (http://www.prudential-linn.com/wareham/detail.asp?listingID=70560706&agentid=&searchtype=ByOffice&count=10&)

Basically, what do ya'll think?  Is it worth the extras to re-roof?  Or should I just shingle over?  

Warning:  Got some insulation questions for the new house to get on here soon too.  ;)

TIA

Why not get a couple of bids and offer to  take that amount off your selling price ??

Then who ever buys it can pick the color / type roof they want . Or if they buy it with remodeling intentions they arn't undoing work that was just done.

The right way is strip , repair , reroof , but you know that.

How many layers are on the roof now ?? Most areas that have codes will only allow one lay over , so a total of two roofs on a building.

Your  old house photos won't open it sez forbidden when I click the link , so can't help much more without photos.  

Ah , the realtors link worked , you call the a Cape Cod ?? Or is it ON Cape Cod ??  ;D  

It would be easy to strip and redo , strip it , repair , felt in and have the tarps handy , a couple of big ones and you could wrap that lil guy right to the ground  ;)

I'd try the money off thing first if it was me .

432 square feet for #190K :o Whooooooooooweeeee!! There go any thought of moving back to N.England  :o :-[

Hmmm - then I guess I shouldn't have put the 3rd roof - or was it fourth on my old house.  

If that's true, then I don't understand why they make the long roofing nails. :-?

Quote


If that's true, then I don't understand why they make the long roofing nails. :-?

To nail on core vent ya wing nut ;D ;D

Think of the added weight you've put on that roof ! Each sqr. is new is at a min. of 240 lbs. So  if your old palce has a truss roof and in Ca. MTL it does if it was build post 1950, those truss's where designed with a two layer max. roof load , plus a fudge factor I'd think , so you just keep adding weight Glenn , I'm sure she'll taker er Capt'n! The hull could breach/ crush / blow!! :o :o

Aye , Scotty!! ;D  

All is not lost, PEG.  That is the one our professional roofer "friend" stripped off and changed about 6 months ago.  Back to single roof now.  It was built in 1952 - conventional stick framing/rafters.

Thanks, we are getting quotes too.  The pic is just off the blog, weird that it won't load, does for us but that's Blogger...sometimes works, sometimes doesn't.  One layer of shingles only.  Not a Cape style house a typical Cape cottage, probably best described as a bungalow.  This area was just summer cottages with no heat made for summer vacationing.  Very small, small lots, and not laid out for living in.  Give us a little more credit-612 sf ;)  This is the cheap spot of Mass too-you couldn't even think about this price in the surrounding area-and this is now that the housing bubble has burst.

Summer vacationing there.  Summer livin' there. :-/

Quote


From what I under satnd that's about the time Larry Hahn and the Ca." fast framers"  started to boom along down there.  Sort of reinvented house building in a way to it's detriment , at least as far a making good / complete carpenters , now we have specialist sider's , roofer's , framers , , formmen , flat concrete workers , etc , who really have no idea what it takes to do the whole house :( :'(

I'm some sort of friggen throw back from what I can tell  ;D

This was done by an old preacher - Mahaffey if I recall correctly -- my mind is leaving me you know---  :-/

It is completely sided in clear redwood -- which has been incorrectly painted about a million times -- Redwood doesn't like paint so it tries to undress itself every few years. :o

It's amazing to think - in about a year's time you went from planning stages to living in a new home that you built yourself - that's what impresses me so much about this forum - so many people (many with little experience in building) are building their dream cottage/cabin or home!  :) 8-)

Exactly PEG.  There are a number of homes in a row here exactly alike from that same time period.

Quote

-- my mind is leaving me you know---  :-/

 

Are you sure ?? I mean IF your mind is going , how are you sure it is ?? Maybe you just THINK you used to have a mind , and really you never did  :o :o I mean how would you know , maybe you have forgotten but just want to have HAD a mind at some time in the past ??  :-/ :'(

I feel yer pain man  ;D I used to be really sharp , I think  :o :-/ :'( ;D ;D

Please don't try to confuse me, PEG.  I don't have a clue right now. :-/

PEG as an existential philosopher, now?  Will wonders never cease? :D

Quote

PEG as an existential philosopher, now?  Will wonders never cease? :D

Hey now Boss,  no name callin  >:( ;) ;D

QuotePlease don't try to confuse me, PEG.  I don't have a clue right now. :-/

Colonel Mustard, in the foyer, with a gun?
there ya go glenn.

Thanks, Daddymem.  Now I have a clue or a Clue.  I guess I wasn't aware of it before. :-/

Ah Inspector Clueso  eh :-/ ;D

So much of life we haven't experienced --- in a split second someone else can give us a clue -- that we may not have discovered by ourselves in a hundred years. :o

Ok, does this change anything?  We can get a great deal on metal roofing.  So good that it may come close to shingle costs.  So we would be talking about replacing any trim and soffits and running strapping over the existing roof then screwing down metal roofing.  The only unsure part is the two penetrations but I bet we can figure that out.  Would that make sense to do over strip and shingle or shingle over? Thanks for any input.

I would do it without any worries about it at all.  I don't know about the rest of them.  I think you are only adding about 1 lb per square foot.

You can make standard roof jacks etc. work if necessary.

QuoteOk, does this change anything?  We can get a great deal on metal roofing.  So good that it may come close to shingle costs.  So we would be talking about replacing any trim and soffits and running strapping over the existing roof then screwing down metal roofing.  The only unsure part is the two penetrations but I bet we can figure that out.  Would that make sense to do over strip and shingle or shingle over? Thanks for any input.

I used to be able to speak New Englander , but eithet I've lost that "gift" or your not being very clear ;D

#1: You have already put comp. shingles on your roof , but want to re - roof over with metal??

#2:   Or you haven't yet roofed with comp . but are "set up" trim wise ( which would be what some "shingle  mold " to cover the edge of your roof sheathing ??  

   :-? :-/

I think we are now talking about the old house with a single layer of shingles that need to be replaced  He'd like to put strip purlins over the existing roofing and then screw the new steel over it completely hiding the old roof.  My dad did that and got away with it.  They like the new metal roof.

QuoteI think we are now talking about the old house with a single layer of shingles that need to be replaced  He'd like to put strip purlins over the existing roofing and then screw the new steel over it completely hiding the old roof.  My dad did that and got away with it.  They like the new metal roof.

[highlight] Ah , see you DO have a clue  ;D ;D[/highlight]

The city / township might have a issue , does it require a permit??

They'd still see it as another roof.

On a buddy of mines we when right over the shingles , used 2" or so screws , we did that I bet almost ten years ago .

Up in Ferndale   , off NW ave , really close to Sassy's old stompin grounds :). So she'll know how the wind blows up there :o :o . Been a good roof , Mike was replacing 10 or 15 shingles a storm , since then it been all good.

So ya if the permit's not a issue , and the roof framings not to sway backed , right on top of the shingles would work .

If it is sway backed strip it with 1x4 and shim those to a string line , metal looks pretty bad on a sway backed roof , lays funky , won't line up , get crossways etc .

     

I still have friends in Ferndale & Lynden.  Yes, the wind can howl there  ::)

Every once in a while I get enough rest to regain my senses. :)

With the thread drift you might have gone off track.  Yes, still talking about my old house that is in need of a roof.  Sounds like you have forgotten New England PEG.  Of course it requires a permit-doesn't everything around here?  We can do a second layer of shingles with a permit.  We have to ask about the metal roof but it should be ok to install over a single layer of shingles.  The shingles are breaking apart and are covered with moss.  There is some sag in the roof (is that "sway back"?), enough that we can see where the rafters are.  Basically shim the strapping so you have a level surface to screw the metal sheets to, right?  Some of the soffit pieces are rotten and need to be replaced.  I'm trying to get out of it the cheapest while still ending up with a decent roof since we are selling it (gotta pay for the new house as much as we can).  If I was staying I would strip it and put a metal roof on.  With the deal we can get on metal roof, I was considering it as an option while we wait for the quotes to come in for someone else to do it.
Options:
1. Strip roof and shingle
2. Shingle over existing single layer of shingles
3. Strip roof and install metal roof
4.  Install metal roof over existing single layer of shingles

1&3 and 2&4 will probably be pretty close to each other cost wise.  Depending on the contractor quote to strip and shingle, we may go DIY so I just wanted to get opinions on which of my options are good or if they are all ok and I just have to make a choice.

All 4 of your listed options are do able.  I'll point out my (take the $$ of a new comp roof off the selling price) I mentioned back on June  9th  0725   (7:25 AM  for you civilains  ::))

 Thread drift , ya it got me  ;D Good thing Glenn was well rested  ::) Sharp as a tack that guy  ;D ;)

So now you're saying I have a pointed head. :-/

A GC once told me work started at 0700.  I laughed -  I don't often do 0700.  Then again, I don't stop at 1530.

I later heard him telling another foreman how he'd leave the job at night and - it was like a miracle -- he'd come back in the morning and everything would be done.

A fine Firstday back to the top for your review.

Daddymen,

Can yiu post your blog link / address?

Thanks
Chuck

http://schluterhomestead.blogspot.com/

Hope resurrecting a zombie thread of mine is acceptable instead of starting a new one since this is in regards to my house.  If not then feel free to  d* d* d* me.  :)

Hey guys and gals, (and Glenn  ;D ) been a long time, no?  Daddymem is alive, busy busy with rugrats growing and life in general; not any building for years now. Would you believe that the little dude in my avatar on his first bike ride is now a dual enrolled high school little man stretched out to just a hair under 6 foot tall?!?! Time flies almost as fast as the little bugger on his bike.

Anywhos, I got a project coming up and thought I'd get some advice from those smahter than I on these things.

See below linked figures for a canopy we'd like to add to our house.  The front door is on the dark side of the house and there are no gutters so we get a ton of splash off the steps and onto the door. And if it is raining, you get to stand in a shower while unlocking the door.  We replaced the door and added a nice storm dorm recently so we'd like to protect it.  In addition, the snow comes off the roof on this non-gabled wall directly down onto the steps, leaving massive piles. We think the canopy will provide answers to our problems.

General comments, ideas etc welcome.  My three areas of concern are the brackets.

First, is about the angle piece joint to the vertical and horizontal portions. (4x4 with a 1.5" deep pocket) Are these pockets the way to go, or would a bridle joing be better? Or is there another option?

Second is the connection to the house. To review the construction of my house from outside in: 1x8 ship lap nailed to 1x3 which are spiked (8") through 1" and 2" rigid insulation pieces over Tyvek over 1x8 T&G pine sheathing nailed to built up post (three 2x4s nailed together).  The idea I have is to drill a hole all the way through the above and use carriage bolts through the vertical bracket pieces behind the pocket joints as shown. With the bolt going throught the middle of the center 2x4, how thick a bolt do you think?  The snow tends to stick to the roof until it overcomes the friction and comes sliding down all at once.  I have the peak of this canopy close to the roof edge so free fall time prior to contact is minimized.  I don't want the bolts to shear off on us from an avalanche of snow.  A 1/2" x 10 inch galvy like below would get me through everything and most of the way through the 2x4 post, I could recess the washer and nut and cover with interior sheathing for a no-show finish.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-13-tpi-x-10-in-Galvanized-Coarse-Thread-Carriage-Bolt-803646/204633568

Finally, the bolt locations.  Should they be hidden at the joints between pieces, or is it a better idea to put them just below the top and just above the bottom joint instead so they go through the full 4x4 (minus recessing the bolt head maybe).

I think the rest appears to be reasonable.  No building permit here so no other set of eyes on these plans, so looking for a level of comfort.  If you think I should remove the dongle for my wireless mouse and hand in my CAD license and promise to design no more, I don't mind hearing that either.  c*

TIA.

PDFs
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3C2Z23ga_pKQjl5Z1p5WlZUcVE/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3C2Z23ga_pKUkhBQmFuRi1SWTQ/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3C2Z23ga_pKWmxPbElGRDlGQW8/view?usp=sharing

CAD file for you CAD jockeys like me.

PS Our blog moved to https://littlehouseonthesandpit.wordpress.com/  I haven't done much updating, but there really isn't much new, just the same old grind, thank God for homebrew!

PPS I am now the Staff Engineer for the Town of Falmouth and have my PE, yep I gots a rubbah stamp now.

WOW has it been that long?  Love your idea....  So long as you don't have a lot of ice and snow rolling down and off.  If you do, you might build a cricket to help divert it.  Or build it stouter or more substantial I. E. boxed in a porch cover over the stairs.  We suggested Ol' Jarhead do the same and has worked well over the years. But he gets a ton of snow...  Northern Washington.  You might go to his site and see.  Glad to see your still around - just because your not building gives no reason to stay away......   ;)   

Thanks!  We thought of putting down posts, but that triggers the building permit.  Not a huge deal, but then I'd have to get a Zoning Board of Appeals variance because that would be subject to setbacks that got larger since we built the house...

As far as snow, we can get a ton at once in a Nor'easter or Blizzard, or not much.  Last year for example, we had a couple of almost 2-footer snow storms. 

I'd cricket, but I don't like the idea of holding that snow up on the roof with the bazillion screw penetrations through the metal roof.

Quote from: Daddymem on February 22, 2016, 10:25:42 AM
Thanks!  We thought of putting down posts, but that triggers the building permit.  Not a huge deal, but then I'd have to get a Zoning Board of Appeals variance because that would be subject to setbacks that got larger since we built the house...

As far as snow, we can get a ton at once in a Nor'easter or Blizzard, or not much.  Last year for example, we had a couple of almost 2-footer snow storms. 

I'd cricket, but I don't like the idea of holding that snow up on the roof with the bazillion screw penetrations through the metal roof.

I hear you there about the screws.  We had to go to small cricket on the wood stove chimney or flue.  We tried a Cricket Eliminator that did not work at all.  It produced a huge glacier taller than the flue - only in like five or six feet.... So went with the real thing.  Just left the Cricket Eliminator on the flue to give it more support.  But that is not your problem.   :D

I really do like the looks of what you are planning, however around here we try and avoid dropping snow and ice to a lower roof. It tends to over time pull everything down with it..... 

       

Quote from: rick91351 on February 22, 2016, 10:54:47 AM
...however around here we try and avoid dropping snow and ice to a lower roof. It tends to over time pull everything down with it..... 

So are there solutions in your area?  I did think of decreasing the pitch and keeping the peak elevation to reduce the 3' drop to something less, but I want to also get the snow off the canopy ASAP.  I'd love to hear solutions from other parts of the country.

Let's see some pics! :)

The rug rats at Diana's Baths in New Hampshire this past summah
(https://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff173/daddymem/20150827_182712-ANIMATION%201_zpscn1osdoq.gif) (https://s237.photobucket.com/user/daddymem/media/20150827_182712-ANIMATION%201_zpscn1osdoq.gif.html)

My summah project last yeeah
(https://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff173/daddymem/20150808_173137%201_zpsf7epstbt.jpg) (https://s237.photobucket.com/user/daddymem/media/20150808_173137%201_zpsf7epstbt.jpg.html)

Da new door detail with some bones showin
(https://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff173/daddymem/20150920_120208_zpskvjycn5j.jpg) (https://s237.photobucket.com/user/daddymem/media/20150920_120208_zpskvjycn5j.jpg.html)

Younger rugrats standin in front of the door, only difference now is no trim on the door (well the kids are bigger now too and there is one more of them)
(https://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff173/daddymem/firstday2Bcottage2B04-28-072B2_zpsunflugkc.jpg) (https://s237.photobucket.com/user/daddymem/media/firstday2Bcottage2B04-28-072B2_zpsunflugkc.jpg.html)

How's that?

Two new ideas:

1.  Extend the vertical bracket piece 4x4 down to the top steps (concrete prefab).
2.  Pull out the concrete steps, and extend the vertical bracket piece 4x4 down to the ground on a block. Build a half step of wood to sit at the door to block the ~5" gap between house and step.

On another front...we still have the albatross (other house).  Renter is out (do we have stories on that fiasco...being a landlord sux, especially when you lose money every month) so we are trying to sell it and it needs gutters.  Jeez the seamless guys want a ton of dough!  We are gonna do aluminum 10 sections from the local big box, appears to be the cheapest we could find.  Now questions to those who have done before:

1.  Overlap the joints or use seamers?
2.  Cut in downspout holes or use the downspout pieces?

Pertinent info:
(2) 10' runs
(2) 24' runs
(4) seams required for gutter joining
(4) downspouts total

Any advice on gutters appreciated. 

TIA

I recently added a run 30+ feet of gutter down the swampy side of our barn using 10 ft aluminum sections.  I'd be happy to take some photos or describe of any of the details.  (My install is pretty rough, but it's a barn so I could get away with it.)

I chose to overlap instead of using seamers to avoid the water hitting a seam when it flowed down the slope.  I overlapped the sections by 4", put the "higher" section inside the "lower", and put a bead of gutter seamer inside before nesting the sections together.

I used the downspout pieces instead of cutting in the holes.  I'd say you could go either way with this.  It did make that bit easier to assemble (although getting the adjacent section to nest in it nicely was kind of a pain -- I think the profiles might have been off slightly).  I also only had one drop, so it really wasn't that much of a cost for me.  You might just calculate the the cost both ways and decide if the extra cost is worth the convenience.

Semi-pro tip:  I had good luck snapping a chalkline at the proper slope (there were a lot of numbers out on the internet, but I think I went with a 1/4" drop per every 8-10 ft) and then installing to the line.  I think I installed it in 20 ft sections -- it was easier to get it nested together nice and straight while on the ground.

Thanks for the advice.  Wish me luck!  c*

Your gutter problem is not too hard to solve. I have worked in the siding and trim business for many years. First, check around your local area a find a supplier for the siding business's in your area. Many of these shops have a gutter maker on site and will sell you what you need by the foot. If your total length is 24 feet, buy two 13 footers and stack one inside the other and tape them together with some fiber tape, secure them to the roof of your vehicle. When you get home measure the length exactly. Decide where your outlets are going to be. I recommend the fewest seams, so use the preformed outlets and cut the holes from the outside bottom. Make sure they extend past the edge of the shingle by one inch. Flip the gutter upside down and  place the outlet on the gutter in the correct location. With a pencil, mark the opening from the inside of the outlet. Using a Stanley utility knife, cut just inside the line. you won't cut through but cut into the aluminum. Then cut a line from corner to corner to make an X. Use a screwdriver or awl and punch a hole in the center of the X. The aluminum will tear where you have cut into the aluminum and you have a neat hole. From the inside of the gutter insert the outlet and drill holes with an 1/8 inch drill bit and use pop rivets of a matching color from the outside to secure the outlet.

For the seam. I overlap about 11 inches. Cut the top lip off the inside portion of the gutter overlap and roll the one inside the other. Use three or four heavy beads of the silver gutter goop to seal the seam and around all the outlets. Use 6 to 8 rivets from the bottom to hold the seam together and only one or two rivets on the face. Seal all rivets with the silver sealant. Mark the location of hangers I go 30 inches apart, I like the hangers over the spike as you lessen the risk of dinging up the face of the gutter and they give a cleaner look. Good luck!