Early last year I purchased 2 acres of farm land from my grandfather in upstate South Carolina.. And after a lot of thinking, I've decided to go with the 20x30 1/2. As I am 21 years old, I will obviously have to build this house very frugally. I have very little interest in the way this house will look when it's done - I want functionality. I've seen several examples of people drying in their 20x30's in the 11k to 16k range, and that's what I'm hoping for. I have a total budget of 35k. The building inspector laughed in my face and said "that's impossible". He also strongly advised me not to use a pier foundation.
A few differences from the original plans:
4" slab with a "stem wall" - I will be stamping the concrete and acid staining it. The slab will be my floor throughout the entire house. No wood or flooring of any kind on top of the concrete. My slab foundation is going to be just as cheap as a pier foundation, because I don't have to buy any type of flooring.
I will have a complete second story instead of a loft. To make it easier, I'm not balloon framing. Just 8 foot 2x6 walls, and I'll lay the prefab attic trusses right on top. The trusses (with 12' dormer) have been quoted $2800. The trusses are actually built and rated for living space so I won't have a problem there. The truss builder estimated he could get me about 30x12' of head room, and more in the dormer.
Costs
$3000 2 acres of land
$600 Surveyor
$100 Fence supplies
$300 Septic and Building permits
$100 Plans
$650 140ft of Infiltrator septic system
$300 Septic labor
$1300 for water hookup (no pipes yet, just the hookup)
$369 One load of driveway gravel (will need one more)
$200 Electricity deposit
Psst, a little secret: I've heard that people around here seem to like pictures. Even pictures of bare dirt & trees & sketches on napkins work. w*
Quote from: waggin on November 17, 2009, 12:41:49 PM
Psst, a little secret: I've heard that people around here seem to like pictures. Even pictures of bare dirt & trees & sketches on napkins work. w*
Theyre coming! : ) I'm just at work at the moment. I have lots more info but it's a little busy here and it's hard to remember everything.
I posted lots of pictures of dirt and trees. ;D ;D Still do.
Where abouts in the upstate are you? We have 7 acres out past Travelers Rest- almost to Tigerville (hence my name- MushCreek). I'm looking forward to watching your progress. I hope to break ground in 2010.
Jay
Quote from: MushCreek on November 17, 2009, 04:22:03 PM
Where abouts in the upstate are you? We have 7 acres out past Travelers Rest- almost to Tigerville (hence my name- MushCreek). I'm looking forward to watching your progress. I hope to break ground in 2010.
Jay
That's only an hour and a half away. We are in greenwood.. about an hour south of Greenville. It will probably be 2010 (January) for me too. I still have to get my sewer, water, and gravel in.
The toughest task so far has definitely been the cattle fence, because I cut down the cedar trees and made my own posts. All the permits and fees weren't far behind, though. : ) (and hearing the inspector laugh at me for thinking I can build a 30,000 dollar house)
Here's my land along the fenceline. I pretty much bought a piece of a cow pasture. The cows stand around my fence drooling over the uneaten grass :P
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mp7cCpK8xz0/SpMj59EsCpI/AAAAAAAAAAM/hr7_v6s6jKk/s320/l_49795017bd2744249881e89979e93154.jpg)
You can put a bedroom in attic trusses, just make sure they a engineered for the required load (generally 30 psf live+10psf dead load) and you have an egress window in the room.
Yeah, I just got back from the truss company - he says he can get me 14 ft of room. I think he's exaggerating a little, but he's going to call me back soon. I hope he's right - that's a 14 x 30 ft room.. a little over 400 extra sq feet :D
I like the pic, I think grassing cows add a nice touch w*
(tip: more photos and larger :) )
We got the septic in two weeks ago. It was 5 times easier than I thought it would be. The hardest part was packing dirt around the sides of the infiltrator before we could cover it up.. and the shoveling only took 2 hours by myself. I would definitely recommend infiltrator systems.
I've decided to use a stem wall - about 8" above ground level. Everyone was telling me I would have water problems if i didn't.
I've also found a great heating and cooling alternative to wall units. It's called a "ductless" heating/cooling system. Pretty easy to install yourself, and the end result is exactly like central air. Each "unit" has its own temperate sensor and remote, which is pretty nice. http://www.ductlessdepot.net/product_details-type-1-0-221.html
I'm no longer going to stamp the concrete. My dad has his own stamps, but lately he's been complaining about how hard it is to clean those deep cracks. I'm just going to leave the floor really smooth and then acid stain it.
Standing in the septic tank hole
(http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/61/l_52c7de0ce9de4d7489e0da105344aead.jpg)
Starting the trenches
(http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/109/l_ae4d3afccbd84c119b380286b4f6408a.jpg)
The Infiltrator system
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/79/l_6239a10494564b08a39aa1ddd12eeaff.jpg)
Looking from my future house to the backyard
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/107/l_33c17110eadf48c39a8ec4973a9df42b.jpg)
Looking from my future house to the road
(http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/32/l_888faabb3a364e0d9a08c33ea11dc228.jpg)
The drive home
(http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/26/l_952d39f011454d32b2a26e21fccfc79f.jpg)
Love the photo of the sunset you titled Drive Home. Wow that just spoke volumes to me. We have been doing that for the last several years. We are getting a place ready to build up at a ranch we have. Plus all the other stuff up there from a newly established 100 tree orchard to fencing, from logging to just keeping up with life. The last couple years it has been sunsets and dark thirty getting home every chance we get. Yet with all the sore muscles and stiff joints I still thank God ever chance I get for the opportunity that I have had to do it. I hope when you look back in a few years you will agree it was a great time. Keep us posted!!!
Quote from: rick91351 on December 13, 2009, 09:07:52 PM
Love the photo of the sunset you titled Drive Home. Wow that just spoke volumes to me. We have been doing that for the last several years. We are getting a place ready to build up at a ranch we have. Plus all the other stuff up there from a newly established 100 tree orchard to fencing, from logging to just keeping up with life. The last couple years it has been sunsets and dark thirty getting home every chance we get. Yet with all the sore muscles and stiff joints I still thank God ever chance I get for the opportunity that I have had to do it. I hope when you look back in a few years you will agree it was a great time. Keep us posted!!!
At this point I am actually a little stressed about the whole thing, because I'm going at a pretty fast pace.. but I will look back and feel great that I did the whole thing. Most of it is unnecessary worrying that I won't get the house done in my budget or I'll mess up on the building somehow. Just seems too good to be true, having my own land and home at 21.. and it's so much to take in.
We agree with the smooth finish being better for house concrete and use blotches of color in the top coat rather than acid etching.
(https://i778.photobucket.com/albums/yy62/the_troglodyte/greatroomtable.jpg)
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.msg101231#msg101231
I read on another site that a cheap way to stain your concrete floor is to use iron sulfate. http://www.cathy-moore.com/house/stain.html
Quote from: HomeschoolMom on December 14, 2009, 09:04:11 AM
I read on another site that a cheap way to stain your concrete floor is to use iron sulfate. http://www.cathy-moore.com/house/stain.html
That link is VERY helpful. I'm going to test it somewhere where a closet will be. If it looks good at all, i'll be applying it to the entire slab. Thanks!
Let us know how that turns out, as others (me) are interested as well.
Thanks, homeschoolmom for the link.
Seeya!
Question..
For the second floor, should I go with I-joists or 2x10's? I will be dry-walling the ceiling so looks don't matter.
Is there a cost difference?
For the size of structure that you are building I would go with whatever is cheaper. In my part of the world 2x10s are way cheaper than engineered I-joists.
Quote from: SardonicSmile on December 14, 2009, 11:55:22 AM
Question..
For the second floor, should I go with I-joists or 2x10's? I will be dry-walling the ceiling so looks don't matter.
Is there a cost difference?
Without searching around to see if you've mentioned them before, we're short a couple details. First, what plans you have and what were they were drawn with as far as suggested materials. Then, the width is 20 ft outside. Do you plan on 2x6 walls? That would make a 19'1" clear span. Or is there a center load bearing wall(s) on the main floor?
If I assume there is NO central load bearing wall, and use the clear span distance of 18'1" here's what the
span calculator (http://www.awc.org/calculators/span/reversecalc/reversecalc.asp) comes up with...
...using 16" OC, deflection of L/360, live load of 40 psi, it says you would need to use select structural grade Doug Fir 2x12, or #1 or better Southern Pine. There are also other choices, but only in 2x12 and in the better grades of lumber.
If there is central load support the upper floor joists could be as small as #2 2x6, depending on species and grade.
Engineered materials usually will cost more. They are nice in that they should come straight and ready for use. No need to hope the lumber yard delivers good product and no need to sift thru box store inventory. Plus 20 footers are not always easy to find in all locales.
I hope that helps.
they are really light too, and sometimes have a larger edge to nail on your plywood/drywall.
Looks like a great project. I could tell from the picture without seeing the location that you had to be somewhere near ga/sc with the red clay soil.
Your grandfather was kind to sell you 2 acres for 3k.... looks like nice usable land.
So I don't know what I was thinking when I asked about 2x10's. I just remembered that I'm getting trusses made. I won't have to worry about it. The truss guy said they will be 24' OC.. I am kind of worried about that. He says it is code and it will be plenty strong enough, though.
The dormer will be 12'. Should look about like this:
(http://www.countryplans.com/images/amydan/ext-08b.jpg)
Got approved for 30,000, all the paperwork is done and we have the money. Took longer than expected.. almost a month. Looks like I have a $35,000 budget. My temporary power and water is in. The water tap was 1300 and the power fees were 300. The next step is digging the water line (by hand.. 300 feet). I can't really do anything else until it stops raining so we can get a gravel truck in there for the rest of my driveway. Two people have gotten stuck already.
Septic yet?
Quote from: RainDog on January 21, 2010, 09:51:37 AM
Septic yet?
Yep, septic has been done - check page 1 of this thread for pics.
Alright, the footings are done and we should be getting it poured tomorrow. Had to get it inspected twice because there was a soft spot. Incoming pictures!
I do have a few questions.. for reference, i'm pouring a 4" slab with a 3 block stem-wall. The top block will be L shaped to accommodate a 4" slab. I will be back-filling with #57 gravel up to the bottom of the L block.
---What is the best way to secure my walls to the concrete? Let anchors dry in the concrete? Will be using 6" walls. I have also heard of people using high-powered nails?
---What do I need to do to keep out moisture under the slab? Visquine sheeting on top of the gravel? Does plumbing go over or under the sheeting?
---I'm planning on having rebar sticking up from the foundation every four feet. Does this seem good enough? I'll obviously concrete fill the stem wall blocks that have rebar in them.
I dont have answers for any questions.sorry about that. But are you saying your going to fill 2.5 blocks high with rock? Id be afraid of settling(eventually) and a chance of alot of cracks.The way we normally do stem wall foundations is to backfill with dirt,pack it down and cover with thick plastic. I think it would be hard to pack that deep of rock. maybe a 4" layer. Maybe Im wrong,but Ive never seen it done that way
Darrell
I'm not entirely clear what you have going on here. "The top block will be L shaped to accommodate a 4" slab"
Generally you fill the inside up to grade. The top 4" usually gets sand or gravel for cap break.
The plumbing is installed and backfilled. Any thicken footings you may have are dug and 6 or 10 mil plastic on top.
Quote from: devildog on March 04, 2010, 08:53:23 PM
I dont have answers for any questions.sorry about that. But are you saying your going to fill 2.5 blocks high with rock? Id be afraid of settling(eventually) and a chance of alot of cracks.The way we normally do stem wall foundations is to backfill with dirt,pack it down and cover with thick plastic. I think it would be hard to pack that deep of rock. maybe a 4" layer. Maybe Im wrong,but Ive never seen it done that way
Darrell
The concrete foundation will be lower than ground level, so the first wall block will be underground. Also, I may be doing only two blocks. Just depends on how it looks after we pour it. I agree, it would probably settle if I had 3 blocks above ground level. I'm just trying to get the foundation about 6" off the ground.
(http://i45.tinypic.com/2gwgpcp.jpg)
Here's a rough drawing of the top L-block. The foundation is backfilled up to the arrow, and then there is 4" remaining for a concrete slab. It's very common around here.
Quote from: diyfrank on March 04, 2010, 09:40:19 PM
I'm not entirely clear what you have going on here. "The top block will be L shaped to accommodate a 4" slab"
Generally you fill the inside up to grade. The top 4" usually gets sand or gravel for cap break.
The plumbing is installed and backfilled. Any thicken footings you may have are dug and 6 or 10 mil plastic on top.
Anyway, here's an image of the foundation.
(http://i49.tinypic.com/2n1b2us.jpg)
I see, pictures make sense.
You didn't mention insulation. Do they insulation the walls before backfilling? Where I am It's required.
why do a foundation if you are building on a slab? just curious.
Quote from: cbc58 on March 05, 2010, 08:56:37 AM
why do a foundation if you are building on a slab? just curious.
Well, the concrete foundation is required, and I just want to raise the house up a little. I'm building on a fairly flat area and water can become a problem on 4" slabs. Just want to be on the safe side. My uncle has a 4" slab in his garage and he has had flooding during heavy rains. My inspector advised that I do it also.
i am north of you (nc) and they build on 4" slabs here all the time.... sc must be different or the soils must be different. had you considered going up 3 more courses on the blocks/concrete and have a crawlspace with no slab..? i look forward to seeing this system and your progress and how you do the pipes/plumbing with the slab/foundation combo.
Quote from: cbc58 on March 05, 2010, 09:25:44 AM
i am north of you (nc) and they build on 4" slabs here all the time.... sc must be different or the soils must be different. had you considered going up 3 more courses on the blocks/concrete and have a crawlspace with no slab..? i look forward to seeing this system and your progress and how you do the pipes/plumbing with the slab/foundation combo.
The way my house is going to sit, I'll have to build up dirt all around the house to create a slope.. so it needs to be higher than 4 inches.
Quote from: diyfrank on March 05, 2010, 08:20:39 AM
I see, pictures make sense.
You didn't mention insulation. Do they insulation the walls before backfilling? Where I am It's required.
No requirements for insulation this far south. We don't even have a frost line : )
I would also suggest getting higher is better. Almost all houses over 100 years old are sitting up high off the ground. Ground height just seems to creep up over time and many slab on grade houses are "sunk" after a few decades.
You might consider a thickened edge slab as that could be done in one pour, however if your block wall will be relatively high doing it separately will be better. The slab and foundation wall can be tied together with rebar in the block cores wired to the rebar or mesh in the slab. You will still want to place foundation bolts in the cores so they tie the foundation wall and sill plate together. Your code will have size and spacing requirements for these.
Around here we insulate slabs with a couple of inches of foam. They are usually "floated" inside the foundation walls and there is no need to notch the block wall as the slab can sit inside the standard wall.
If you are in dry soil just the crushed rock under the slab may be enough for moisture control. If you want a better barrier put down 6 mil poly or 4 mil cross-laminated poly followed by 2" of sand and then pour the slab.
Quote from: John Raabe on March 05, 2010, 12:44:11 PM
I would also suggest getting higher is better. Almost all houses over 100 years old are sitting up high off the ground. Ground height just seems to creep up over time and many slab on grade houses are "sunk" after a few decades.
You might consider a thickened edge slab as that could be done in one pour, however if your block wall will be relatively high doing it separately will be better. The slab and foundation wall can be tied together with rebar in the block cores wired to the rebar or mesh in the slab. You will still want to place foundation bolts in the cores so they tie the foundation wall and sill plate together. Your code will have size and spacing requirements for these.
Around here we insulate slabs with a couple of inches of foam. They are usually "floated" inside the foundation walls and there is no need to notch the block wall as the slab can sit inside the standard wall.
If you are in dry soil just the crushed rock under the slab may be enough for moisture control. If you want a better barrier put down 6 mil poly or 4 mil cross-laminated poly followed by 2" of sand and then pour the slab.
We were only going to use rebar sticking up from the foundation into the first block on the stem wall (and fill it). I'm not familiar with any of the other ideas you gave.. Are they really necessary? There are no rebar code requirements pertaining to the house I'm building. I thought there would be, but I asked the inspector myself. We will be using wire mesh in the slab.
We can't do what you're suggesting with the foundation bolts (putting foundation bolts in the stem wall) because we are using those L blocks on top. Instead, we will have shorter 8" foundation bolts stuck in the actual slab.
i'm just curious cause i've never seen it done that way. if you build on the foundation walls... (the peremiter wall that you are putting in)...what's the slab for?... you don't lay any joists on the slab do you?
Quote from: cbc58 on March 05, 2010, 04:17:15 PM
i'm just curious cause i've never seen it done that way. if you build on the foundation walls... (the peremiter wall that you are putting in)...what's the slab for?... you don't lay any joists on the slab do you?
A slab is cheaper than a crawlspace foundation if you're not putting wood or flooring over it. I'm using the concrete with no "flooring". Just area rugs in some places.
It may not seem like it at first glance but..
Slab: $1500 for concrete, $700 for block, $100 for mesh and plastic.
Crawlspace with traditional flooring: something like $800 for wood, and then thousands for flooring.
I think you're better off with a crawl space too. For many reasons. Not the least of which is the plumbing. And a slab will probably end up costing more than you think and require additional help.
I am a tad confused. ???
I guess I don't understand the low block wall around the perimeter if the concrete slab is going to be the actual home floor. The block section would be more difficult to insulate than a stick built, floor to ceiling, wall.
Our homes slab foundation was poured as a monolith with the perimeter being about 12 inches wide and 18 inches deep into the ground. The infield was no less than 4 inches. The rebar in the perimeter footing is wired to vertical rebar in the footing trench and that is wired to the steel wire mesh in the slab. The minimum grade to slab top distance was about 6 inches. The land slopes slightly to one side and the front street. It took lots on concrete and good form work but after 25 years there is no apparent settling or cracking anywhere.
Unfortunately this was built in the 80's and back then there was not much perimeter insulating done on the slab. Today's homes around here have floors that are notably warmer in the winter. Heat transfer inwards in the summer is also an issue that good foundation insulation will take care of. I would check into the best practices for concrete slabs in whatever part of the country you are in. Building science (Google is your pal) would have information on this I'm sure. No time for me to check that out right now.
Quote from: MountainDon on March 05, 2010, 05:01:35 PM
I am a tad confused. ???
I guess I don't understand the low block wall around the perimeter if the concrete slab is going to be the actual home floor. The block section would be more difficult to insulate than a stick built, floor to ceiling, wall.
So your point is that by raising the slab above ground level, It's going to be tougher to insulate? Sorry if I'm having a hard time understanding things right now, not getting enough sleep lately!
What keeps the water out if I were to have a regular 4" slab?
Rasied slabs are very common around here. Usually they are 3 blocks high and filled with crushed limestone. The plumbing is installed in the fill. I see them all the time. The issue is termites and water. By raising the slab you solve both problems.
Okay, I said I was confused. I had a picture in my mind of the slab down near ground level and the perimeter 2 or 3 block high wall extending above that. That was my puzzle.
Now if I understand correctly the idea is to dig a perimeter foundation, lay in a footing and build a perimeter wall on that. Then lay a slab at the level of the top of the blocks. That makes sense now. That's sort of the same thing as pouring a monolith as we have, only a little higher out of the ground.
You're still going to have heat loss/gain through the slab. That's where looking up the techniques for properly insulating the slab and block wall comes in.
Quote from: MountainDon on March 05, 2010, 06:13:41 PM
Okay, I said I was confused. I had a picture in my mind of the slab down near ground level and the perimeter 2 or 3 block high wall extending above that. That was my puzzle.
Now if I understand correctly the idea is to dig a perimeter foundation, lay in a footing and build a perimeter wall on that. Then lay a slab at the level of the top of the blocks. That makes sense now. That's sort of the same thing as pouring a monolith as we have, only a little higher out of the ground.
You're still going to have heat loss/gain through the slab. That's where looking up the techniques for properly insulating the slab and block wall comes in.
Yep, you got it right. But since the weather is pretty mild around here, I don't think I'll do a whole lot in the way of insulation.
By the way.. we got the foundation poured. Looks great, perfectly level because we added a little more water than usual. We have rebar hooks sticking up every 3-4 feet, about 5 inches high. This is not code either, but it was simple so why not?
Cost UpdateBackhoe to dig footings: $200
8 yards of concrete for footings: $720
So you're going to lay a short block wall around the perimeter, fill those blocks (with rock?) and then pour a slab on top, correct? How many rows of block?
Normally with a raised slab 2" foam board is placed inside the block before the fill is added to help insulate the floor.
Quote from: ScottA on March 05, 2010, 07:59:35 PM
Normally with a raised slab 2" foam board is placed inside the block before the fill is added to help insulate the floor.
Actually, I may do this.. because it would also help with expanding/contracting concrete.
Quote from: bmancanfly on March 05, 2010, 07:29:52 PM
So you're going to lay a short block wall around the perimeter, fill those blocks (with rock?) and then pour a slab on top, correct? How many rows of block?
Yes, the slab will be level with the top block. See earlier in the thread to see the "L block" i'm using. I will most likely be using two blocks and then the L block.
Interesting.
I always think the fun starts when the foundation is finished and the framing starts (my favorite part).
Keep the pics coming. Good luck.
Before I forget..
Cost Update
$739 - Block, mortar, and sand for stem wall
$450 - Labor for the block work, including the batter boards
---------------
Also, my plumber says not to call him out until the stem wall and filling is completely done.. how is he going to get through the stem wall? Seems like it would be easier to plan for holes ahead of time, but he says not to.
Here's a better picture of the L block, if anyone is interested.
The bottom left block.
(http://www.acehardware.com/graphics/info/shared/ACE_Projects_LayConcrete.jpg)
Got the block in!
(http://i39.tinypic.com/300b95j.jpg)
(http://i39.tinypic.com/2sbmopj.jpg)
really nice setting you have. do you have any drainage system around the foundation system you are putting in? based on what you describe will they come in and pour a floor to the top of the foundation.. ?? i guess the plumber comes in before hand and pipes go in before the pour?
What are you using the cement for?
Are you mixing your own concrete for the slab?
Quote from: cbc58 on March 14, 2010, 08:41:25 AM
really nice setting you have. do you have any drainage system around the foundation system you are putting in? based on what you describe will they come in and pour a floor to the top of the foundation.. ?? i guess the plumber comes in before hand and pipes go in before the pour?
Thanks ; ) I have the stem wall so that I can build up dirt and create a small slope away from the house. And yes, first we have to back-fill it, do the plumbing, and then we will pour the slab. The plumber just drills/cuts through the block.
Quote from: diyfrank on March 14, 2010, 09:38:10 AM
What are you using the cement for?
Are you mixing your own concrete for the slab?
Those white bags are actually bags of sand. The block layer called for 3 tons of sand, but only needed one. We also have about 10 bags or mortar left. I'm going to use them to fill the walls.
Got quoted $4,000 on plumbing today. Just one bathroom, a kitchen, and plumbing to the washer/dryer.
If I can't find anyone MUCH cheaper, I'm doing it all myself. :P
Cost Update
$1000 for #57 rock for back-filling.
Anyway.. got the back-filling in.
(http://i42.tinypic.com/nq4ef7.jpg)
(http://i42.tinypic.com/dbar9.jpg)
did you put down the proper construction fiber mat/barrier before you layed in that stone...?? don't see any edges in the pics...
There are climate differences in the practice of where to install a vapor retarder under a slab, but current practice in most places is to pour the slab on the retarder surface itself. A good material choice is cross-laminated poly placed on top of the crushed rock (which will stop ground water from wicking upwards).
See: http://www.nrmca.org/aboutconcrete/cips/29p.pdf
cbc58 reminded me it is April 1st d* and he wasn't really expecting SardonicSmile to dig up all that gravel! Got me on that one. 8)
However, there are places where installers like to see the fabric/retarder on the soil itself below a sand or gravel topping.
Been talking with a lot of contractors and everyone seems to lay the barrier right on top of the back-filling here. Back-filling, plumbing, barrier, and mesh.. in that order.
Got another plumbing bid for $2300, including fixtures after we pour the slab. The guy for $4,000 wasn't even going to do that. I knew it was a little high..
Got one or two things done... ;D
(http://i41.tinypic.com/ohin3n.jpg)
More info and pics are coming, I've been really busy lately.
Hey SardonicSmile! I've been registered here, but mostly lurking for a good while. Your project is looking good. I like seeing what local people are doing--anything in Upstate South Carolina.
Pilgrim
Inman, SC
Would love to see your progress pictures. c*
I 've been checking every day since you posted the framing one.
wow..your slab went in quick. Looks nice from a distance.
Sorry about the lack of updates: I work at a small engine repair shop and this is the BUSY season.. not to mention the house.
The house is completely dried in, shingles are on, doors/windows are in. Electric is done and HVAC and insulation are on the way. I do have pictures and hopefully I'll be able to get online at home pretty soon.
Side note: The insulation required for the "cathedral ceiling" upstairs is apparently R30, which is impossible to fit in the 2X8" ceiling. I'll either have to box the rooms in upstairs or extend the 2x8's with 2x4's.
Oh, and I learned the hard way.. the stairs in the plans are nowhere near code anywhere in the USA.
Sounds like great progress.
In most areas R-30 insulation is required in single rafter (cathedral) ceilings. This is called out in the plans on the Cross Section (sheet 2). If you don't want to sister a rafter to the bottom of the 2x8s you can use 1-1/2" or so foamboard to bring the value up.
Yes, for upstairs sleeping rooms the cottage stair is too steep for many code jurisdictions (small storage lofts are usually OK). The booklet that came with your plans has a sheet of alternative stair options (page 3) including the larger "Standard U Stair" that will work anywhere.
Quote from: SardonicSmile on June 03, 2010, 09:11:14 AM
Sorry about the lack of updates: I work at a small engine repair shop and this is the BUSY season.. not to mention the house.
The house is completely dried in, shingles are on, doors/windows are in. Electric is done and HVAC and insulation are on the way. I do have pictures and hopefully I'll be able to get online at home pretty soon.
Side note: The insulation required for the "cathedral ceiling" upstairs is apparently R30, which is impossible to fit in the 2X8" ceiling. I'll either have to box the rooms in upstairs or extend the 2x8's with 2x4's.
Oh, and I learned the hard way.. the stairs in the plans are nowhere near code anywhere in the USA.
I used 2X10's for my rafters and standard R-30 is still a tight fit after putting in the ventilation chutes. I ended up using R-30C which is made for cathedral ceilings. It is denser and gives you that extra inch to compensate for the chutes.
These are from about 3 weeks ago - more updates and prices are coming. At this point I was around $18,000.
(http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/1840/1004732.jpg)
(http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/430/1004720m.jpg)
(http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/5285/1004716e.jpg)
(http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/8203/1004726v.jpg)
(http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/327/1004722x.jpg)
(http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/9867/1004723.jpg)
Your place is coming together quickly. You've been busy.
I'm lucky if I get 1 weekend a month off to work on mine.
Looking great!
Quote from: diyfrank on June 20, 2010, 10:31:54 PM
Your place is coming together quickly. You've been busy.
I'm lucky if I get 1 weekend a month off to work on mine.
Looking great!
I forgot to mention that I didn't dry it in myself. I came across a very good deal ($3,000 labor) and I took it.
10/12 pitch ? loft/upstairs looks roomy, stairs turned out real nice.
Quote from: burr on June 21, 2010, 09:32:59 AM
10/12 pitch ? loft/upstairs looks roomy, stairs turned out real nice.
12/12. The stairs are nice but they are unfortunately not code ; ( Gonna take some work to make the inspector OK it.
Quote from: SardonicSmile on June 22, 2010, 08:38:57 PM
Quote from: burr on June 21, 2010, 09:32:59 AM
10/12 pitch ? loft/upstairs looks roomy, stairs turned out real nice.
12/12. The stairs are nice but they are unfortunately not code ; ( Gonna take some work to make the inspector OK it.
Looking great Sardonic! I am very impressed with your progress. Could I get you to post all the measurements on your stairs as they are in the pics. Rise, tread depth along with the length and width. I am building in an area with no inspections so I can build however I want. Your stairs look compact, yet still very manageable and safe. I keep trying to figure how much space I am going to have to commit to stairs and your measurements would help me greatly.
That's a beautiful place you have there. What do you have planned in the way of porches?
Quote from: Dallas2build on June 23, 2010, 12:42:05 PM
Looking great Sardonic! I am very impressed with your progress. Could I get you to post all the measurements on your stairs as they are in the pics. Rise, tread depth along with the length and width. I am building in an area with no inspections so I can build however I want. Your stairs look compact, yet still very manageable and safe. I keep trying to figure how much space I am going to have to commit to stairs and your measurements would help me greatly.
That's a beautiful place you have there. What do you have planned in the way of porches?
I can do that, though it may take a few days. The stairs are supposedly unsafe where you round the corner, because when you grab the railing it's natural to step inwards and it's so narrow there. I'm getting rid of that narrow spot by adding a fancy 6x6 ballaster. I'll have three ballasters total so it will look okay.
Front door: just going to have a half-moon step for now, and I'll eventually pour more concrete for a small stoop.
Back door: going to have a 20x30 privacy fence in the back, connected to the house. There will be a 300 sq ft slab at the door.
I really hate the idea of wood decks.. they wear out too fast.
Quote from: SardonicSmile on December 20, 2009, 06:36:19 PM
So I don't know what I was thinking when I asked about 2x10's. I just remembered that I'm getting trusses made. I won't have to worry about it. The truss guy said they will be 24' OC.. I am kind of worried about that. He says it is code and it will be plenty strong enough, though.
The dormer will be 12'. Should look about like this:
(http://www.countryplans.com/images/amydan/ext-08b.jpg)
Hey SS do you have a link to anymore info on the house you had this picture of?
I got that picture from the "Gallery" on the home page.
For future reference.. this is what my interior will look like. White concrete floors and light neutral walls. Light colored rooms seem to put me in a cheerful mood.
(http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/uimages/dc/leaf-after-with-mg.gif)
Siding is done and drywall is being sanded.. coming along quickly! I'll be up to about 35,000 when drywall is done. Central air was $5,000 d*
Front
(http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/4981/1004764b.jpg)
Back
(http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/4263/1004765s.jpg)
(http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/2039/1004768k.jpg)
One of the upstairs rooms. Just barely able to fit a small return-line for the air, coming up inside the 2x6 wall.
(http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/7822/1004769l.jpg)
Picked this up today. Ruger SP101 .357Mag.
(http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/8192/1004775c.jpg)
Quote from: Pilgrim on May 11, 2010, 01:38:49 PM
Hey SardonicSmile! I've been registered here, but mostly lurking for a good while. Your project is looking good. I like seeing what local people are doing--anything in Upstate South Carolina.
Pilgrim
Inman, SC
I am also in Inman and roughly 2 hours from the town of Greenwood.
SardonicSmile the house is coming along nicely.
You gotta like the Ruger SP. I also have the 2" barrel version and have been looking for a 3".
One comment though; the finger should be off the trigger unless you are ready to fire.
Nice revolver, finger off the trigger until on target also came to mind, that sage safety etiquette is also pertinent to air guns/nailers. Don't mean to sound like a nanny but it just takes a moment's inattention to succesfully initiate a a negligent discharge.
I appreciate your concern, but.. I unloaded just seconds before, revolvers have a strong trigger pull, I was alone, all 50 shells are visibly sitting in the only 38sp box I have, and the gun was pointed at 20 miles of nothing but woods. :P
Anyway, it's got to be the nicest revolver I've ever had.. even like it more than the S&W 642 Airweight. Just feels like a tank and fits me perfectly.
I have an sp101 also. I love mine. Your house is coming along great by the way.
Moving in in two weeks! Pictures are coming. Total cost was around $45,000 (I ended up hiring for most of the work)
Got a 3.7% interest rate on a 15 year ;D
Looks great SardonicSmile!! Were you able to get your stairs to code for the inspector? That's the dilemma I'm having right now, we're not sure how strict they will be. We have a long way to go, we've just begun building, but thought that if we needed to make any changes to the floorplan now is the time to do it. ???
QuoteLooks great SardonicSmile!! Were you able to get your stairs to code for the inspector? That's the dilemma I'm having right now, we're not sure how strict they will be. We have a long way to go, we've just begun building, but thought that if we needed to make any changes to the floorplan now is the time to do it. Huh?
Yep, the rise/run are to code and the width is 36". We had to use three "diagonal" stairs, and the place where they all meet caused a problem with my inspector. His solution was to put a very large ballaster in the spot where the three diagonal stairs became narrow and dangerous. You'll understand when I post pictures.
Congrats on the green light to move in.Job well done.
Very nice! I bet your folks are so proud of you, your hard work and your ambition to go after what you want. [cool]
Haven't had internet access for a while! Been moved in for nearly a year now and love it. I'll try to get some pictures soon.
I'm considering building a simple porch overhang above my front concrete "stoop", but I can't find any basic plans. Anyone have some information/links to a basic overhang like the one pictured below? I don't want to come from the roof because I don't want to cut into the shingles.
(http://i54.tinypic.com/1zp2qmu.jpg)
Do a google search for lean to and shed roof construction.It should turn up a lot of threads detailing how to build the roof.The rest is just posts and railing to hold the roof up.
Can't tell a lot from the small drawing. To securely couple that roof to the house will need removing or cutting away siding to get the ledger secured properly to the studs.
I can't read the new eve height dimension on my screen. I'd be worried about it being too low. Looks that way. Not sure if there is a code figure on that.
Is there snow load? That can weigh heavily on the porch roof; there's snow fall itself plus any snow that slides off the main roof.
What would the resulting shed roof pitch work out to? 2/12 if my tired eyes make it out correctly? What type of roofing would be used? If the pitch is too low standard shingles and even some metal panels won't work as well as with a higher pitch; 4/12 or geater.. Lower pitch may require two layers of felt and may even not be warranted. A shingle is a water sheeder not a water proofer. Low pitch slows the water flow and if there is enough it will back up.
IMO, it would also look better if that new roof was a gable with the same pitch as the existing roof.
Been a very long time since I posted here.. The house has been finished for years, thought I'd add some pictures of the interior. Love it!
Thanks to everyone for the support.
(http://i47.tinypic.com/2b6sev.jpg)
(http://i48.tinypic.com/hvc5cn.jpg)
(http://i47.tinypic.com/jrsg90.jpg)
The house looks great.Good see you're enjoying the place. [cool]
Everything looks great, thanks for the pics. [cool]
One comment though, you may not be aware that refrigerator doors can be reversed.
More pictures please! If you don't mind posting them I would like to see some of the upstairs and also the exterior. You have a very nice looking house!