I bought 5 acres on June 15th in a remote part of the northern sierra mtns. Access is via 20min on a dirt road, and property borders state park land on 2 sides. The area gets a lot of snow, so access in winter in only by snow shoes/snow mobile. This will be me and my wife's primary residence year round once completed. We just sold our house which is about 25miles from our new property and have to be out by sept 15th. I am building this house almost entirely by myself. It took me about 1 week to clear out the manzanita so i could actually drive into the property, 2 weeks to dig the footing, and about 2 weeks to mix and pour 450 bags of concrete. All of the material was delivered to my residential house, and i had to load and drive it out the the property as a semi-truck would be unable to deliver it to the property. I currently have 2 out of the 8 pallets of cinder blocks laid out, as my stem wall will be 8ft tall and my A-frame will be built on top of that.
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Damn... I feel for you. I just laid 550+ 8x8x16 block and mixed about 350 #80 bags to fill my foundation... glad that part is done. I just finished up my framing and need to get it roofed and buttoned up before winter hits... my place is 5+hrs. away though so kind of hard to just "run out to the cabin".
Yea I'm lucky that i can drive back home to take a shower and eat every night...it would be a lot harder if i had to camp out for days at a time. Do you have a journal on here?
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=13919.0
I've been laying blocks for about 5 days now...i've never done this before so slowly figuring it out as i go. Ive made a couple mistakes so my wall in a couple places is a bit wavy...hoping to fix that by setting a thicker mortar bed on the next row and leveling them exactly to the string line. I'm almost done with the fourth row which will contain two rows of horizontal rebar the whole way around...going to do this every 4th row. There will be a total of 12 rows of blocks. Anyone have any tips to make this go faster? It seems like I can only get a couple rows done in 7 hrs of work.
A few of the cinder blocks do not have vertical rebar that has been anchored into the concrete footing. Planning on just sticking a section of rebar in them anyway before i fill the cores with concrete.
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Looking good... plenty of vertical bars too... code (in Wa. and Or.) is @ 4'-0" on center for the verts and 2'-0" for the horizontals I believe. As long as that top course is on the money it probably doesn't matter how wavy the previous courses are. Sorry, no tips on going faster.
Lookin good. You got line blocks? Build those corners up a few rows perfectly plumb and square then run line blocks with masonry string along the wall. Then you just lay blocks to the line. Double check the blocks for level perpendicular to the wall till you have the hang of it.
You can run mortar down the tops of the blocks ahead of time and just butter the edges of blocks as you go.
In my thread I link to a YouTube video of a pro showing how he does it. I'm on mobile right now though so hard to link it.
Quote from: NathanS on August 07, 2016, 04:26:40 PM
Lookin good. You got line blocks? Build those corners up a few rows perfectly plumb and square then run line blocks with masonry string along the wall. Then you just lay blocks to the line. Double check the blocks for level perpendicular to the wall till you have the hang of it.
You can run mortar down the tops of the blocks ahead of time and just butter the edges of blocks as you go.
In my thread I link to a YouTube video of a pro showing how he does it. I'm on mobile right now though so hard to link it.
Ya... what he said.
Thanks for the info..
Quote from: nailit69 on August 07, 2016, 08:54:43 PM
Ya... what he said.
Quote from: nailit69 on August 07, 2016, 05:15:16 AM
Looking good... plenty of vertical bars too... code (in Wa. and Or.) is @ 4'-0" on center for the verts and 2'-0" for the horizontals I believe. As long as that top course is on the money it probably doesn't matter how wavy the previous courses are. Sorry, no tips on going faster.
Thanks, found the video in your journal, nice wall btw. I have a couple pairs of line blocks, but wasnt using them correctly, so i messed up part of my wall which i fixed today with a perfectly level new row on top. Seems to be going a lot faster now that im getting the hang of it and watched that video which helped.
My vertical rebar attached to the footing got covered in block today, so instead of attaching another length with wire, i decided to just drop a full 8ft long piece in each core before i fill them. The wall is getting too tall for me to be able to get the block over a 5 ft length of rebar, and cant imagine wire holding the rebar together would make much of a difference in strength..? Maybe im wrong. It seems the 3 rows of horizontal rebar will add an enormous amount of strength in case of an earth quake.
The 8ft tall wall will be completely buried in snow all winter, so will need to start thinking about water proofing soon.
Might not be the right way but I dropped my vertical bars down full length from the top of finished wall and then filled it with pretty wet cement in one almost continuous pour, we ran 25 or so bags short. Considering the general nature of the construction of the wall I doubt cold joints would be as big of an issue as it would be on a concrete wall. Mine is solid as hell and isn't going anywhere anytime soon.
The wire is to hold the bars in close proximity which does make it stronger... getting above my grade. If you can bend any kind of "hook", deformation, in the end, before dropping it down the hole it will help quite a bit. Anything you can do to scaffold yourself to a comfortable working height makes the work go faster as well, just be safe. One of our rapid trips to the doc was a bad rebar cut.
I'm very impressed with your willingness to build a solid foundation in a remote location. Too often a post and pier foundation is planned 'because we can't get a cement truck back there'. Your effort will pay dividends in the long run
I have posted this before...
I've used this in the past when doing foundation work: https://www.whitecap.com/shop/p/basf-corporation-masterseal-hlm-5000-roller-grade-5-gal-51677002 followed by a dimple board.
Here's an image from the web if you're not familiar with dimple board...
(http://i00.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/999773838/Any_type_Geo_composite_Dimple_Drainage_Board.jpg_350x350.jpg)
Thanks for the help and advice.
Only have 3 rows left, decided to do 11 total rows instead of 12 as i can see 11 rows will provide plenty of head space. Still contemplating which way to build the floor that will go over this stem wall...my original plan was to attach joist hangers to the block wall and use 2x8's which would span 12ft and attach via a joist hanger into the 8x8 center beam. This would make it so the weight of my roof and the wind/snow it endures would be directly supported by the stem wall/sill plate.
The other way im thinking about would be to run 2x10x12's so that they are setting on top of the cinder block wall and on top of the 8x8 center beam...i would then attach a rim board to the butt ends of the 2x10's the whole way around. This method would be much easier to install and stronger but the weight of the roof and wind/snow would be supported by the rim board, which i wouldnt think would be as sturdy. My main concern is the steep pitch of my roof and high winds. I'm planning on attaching my roof rafters to the base of the house with hurricane ties...not sure if there is a better way?
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The weight on the rim board can be mitigated by using a doubled or tripled rim board. It's common when building log cabins on a platform floor to do that, so that the weight of the logs is borne by a wider rim joist.
Depending on your specific application, blocking between the joists and abutting the rim board could also serve that purpose.
Man I just nailed about 40 hangers into an LVL. It was brutal. I have nailed close to 150lbs of nails by hand since last fall and I was bending 1 in 3 or 1 in 4 nails into those freaking LVLs through the hangers.
I like Chugiak's suggestions, and also I hadn't heard of needing that much extra support in light frame construction at the sill. Don P could probably answer that a lot better though.
(http://tse2.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.M12ab9898fa55feb813f5596332dc619co0&pid=15.1) Best tool ever for nailing ticos
I'm on my third one, they don't work as well for full sized nails in dense wood (Go carefully using "joist hanger nails" in most hangers, check the specs first, ticos usually derate the hanger load) I feel your pain on the nailing, been doing lvl's and old oak :P. A palm nailer into that density usually just folds the nail. An 1/8" drilled pilot hole and hammer was about the only reliable way to get them in. After years of that, holding a pen to sign the check hurts more than banging the nails. Wood tech note, you can pilot for a dowel type connector 75-90% of fastener root diameter, depending on wood density. (no more than 75% if G<.6, up to 90% if G> .6) Oak is about .7, softwoods run around .35. An 1/8" hole is 84% of a 10 common or 16 sinker diameter, fine for these densities, I'm also going into the last inch or so without pilot.
Generally speaking rafters should be nailed to the sides of the joists to create a tie. sitting the rafter on top of the floor makes it more difficult to reliably tie, or restrain, the spread of the rafter feet. This is much more important at shallow pitches where the horizontal spreading force is high. An A frame has pretty low horizontal force, most of the roof load is directed down vertically. You have high snow loads.
I think best would be to bolt a sill down, roll joists with the roof angle cut on the ends (no rim). Stand rafters alongside of joists resting on sill and nail the rafters to the joists very well. The roof sheathing forms the rim. Fireblock between joists just inboard of the rafters to separate the floor bays from the roof bays. Block between rafters at each floor as well (lack of blocking is the reason they tend to burn so fast, compartment it) Sprayfoam or foam sheet over this type. Running strapping under the sill, wrapped and nailed well and then up onto the rafter would tie the building to the sill well.
If you do build the floor then set the rafters on a plate.. the plate needs to be very well connected to the floor framing. Then I would use joist hangers laying flat on the plate, bob the end of the rafter vertical for 1.5" and slide them into the hangers, there's the thrust restraint IF the plate stays put. It will at this pitch, non code. It is very hard to get enough nails into the plate to make it work for most pitches.
For localized crushing, I can't remember all your particulars but check rafter end reaction, determine bearing area, generally if reaction load/bearing area is below about 300 psi you are good to go. Wow, what a technobabble post this has turned into :D
I was going to suggest going 13 rows when you started, you lose 4" to slab and just about always end up with more stuff dangling down from above than you think. It really depends on the use.
The big ...pine? on the right looks mighty close. Being of the tree hugger persuasion I built tight in the trees. They are now 30 years older and looming big over the house. They have leaned into the hole in the canopy the house created. I call in the pros to drop them which gets expensive. Should have listened harder to she who must be obeyed lo those many years ago.
Thanks for the detailed response. The method you describe of bolting the rafters to the joists seems like a solid idea, but what keeps the floor joists locked in to the sill plate? Maybe im missing something, but it seems like it would be hard to brace and stand up the 2x10's 8ft up on a stem wall without a floor to stand on. Definitely would best to bolt the rafters and joists together, but i cant see how i would install that myself.
Since the total 2x10 rafter length will be 24ft long, i know that it would be far too heavy for me to stand the whole thing up on my own. To deal with that, i plan on assembling 16' rafters with the loft floor joists bolting onto the 'A' to hold them together. Once i get a number of these stood up, i will install the loft subfloor which will give me something to stand on while the roof decking will hold the "A"s together.. I can then install the remaining 8' long rafters which will be spliced and bolted on using a 2' length of 2x10 on each side of the rafter.
At this point thinking I will double up the rim board and use the joist hanger method you mention, thanks for that advice.
I would probably go to 13 rows for the additional height but am in a bit of a rush as this project needs to be shelled in by sept 15th...also would need to take a 4 hr long drive to pick up more blocks. Luckily the joists will be sitting on top of the wall instead of flush with it so i will not lose 8" by going the original route...another positive.
Nail rather than bolt. Bolts are expensive, few in number, and concentrate stress. Nails are relatively cheap, use large numbers of them to distribute stress broadly over a larger area of a relatively weak material (wood). If you lose one bolt to splitting of the wood or for whatever reason, the remaining bolts take on a serious load. If you have a bunch of nails and lose one, not such a big deal.
With the joists in place and braced from rolling, you can temporarily floor to work from. I scatter sheets or lumber and screw lightly.
Wrapping a strap under the sill and running it up onto the rafter secures the structure to the sill.
another thought, I joists are light and long, would work for floor and rafters and they can provide the design and connection details. If you use spliced lumber I would lap long and nail rather than using splice plates. Outside of my comfort without an injunear.
Quote from: black_edelweiss on August 13, 2016, 02:36:17 AM
At this point thinking I will double up the rim board and use the joist hanger method you mention, thanks for that advice.
This calc will give the horizontal thrust from each rafter that needs to be resisted by the hanger to floor connection;
http://www.timbertoolbox.com/Calcs/RafterThrust.htm
If I enter 288" bldg. width, 115psf load, 24 pitch rafters spaced 24" on center, I come up with a 690 lb horizontal load. In that scenario a Simpson LUS24 is good for 705lbs. Nailing this directly to the floor deck, through the sheathing into the double rim would work. An LUS26 is good for 915lbs but would need to be nailed to a plate rather than nailed directly to the floor, the nail pattern on it is wider than a double rim. That adds another critical connection, the plate needs to be able to resist that load as well. You need to be connected with at least 350 lbs per lineal foot of plate of shear resistance to keep it from wanting to slide off the floor. Gun nails are good for about 80 lbs each in shear, you need at least 5 per foot of plate connecting plate to rim and joists (I would actually use a plate at least as wide as the rafter end).
To get a sense of how pitch magnifies that horizontal spreading force, keep everything the same on that calc except change the pitch to 4 and notice the thrust.
You are relying on the rim/floor connection here heavily as well, DO NOT end up with a little strip on the rim. You need to buy 7 rows of floor sheathing and start with a 2' wide ripped row. You should then end up with a slightly more than 24" ripped final row. Nail to floor joists and rim well.
Thanks for that info, very helpful.
Im done with the wall finally, just need to fill it with concrete which should take 2-4 days (hopefully). Had to take 2 days off to allow home inspectors in to my current residence, fix a hot water heater that wasn't wired to code, and allow my agent to inspect the house. Need to have a roof on in about 4 weeks as thats when we will be out of my residential house. Putting together an order of all the wood which will be delivered to a friends house and i will once again have to load it all and drive it out to the build site, luckily a shorter drive this time around. Also having a small backhoe come in to level the ground in the garage, as it has about a 2.5ft slope. Also arranged to have a 20ft storage container hauled in so we can clean out our house of belongings; will need to do a lot of brush/tree clearing to allow the guy to be able to get back in there, which is why we didnt opt for a 40ft container (narrow roads, not a lot of turn around space).
Bought 5/8" J bolts to tie down the 2x10 sill plate which i will concrete in every 36". For the rafters, thanks to Don-P, i will be doubling up the rim joist, and using the heavier LUS26 joist hangers to secure the rafters into a 2x10 top plate, each 'A' will be spaced 16" for a total of 24. I will also use joist hangers to secure the 2x10 floor joists into the rim board. I think this will tie the two rim boards into the floor joists much better and give the rafters a stronger foundation to tie into versus just nailing the rim board to the joists. I will also secure the 2x10 floor joists to the 6x6 center beam using hurricane ties on each side. The 6x6 posts will be spaced every 8ft and ill use 12"x48" sonotubes reinforced with vertical rebar with a post base concreted in. I will then run a 6x6 over the length of the posts which the floor joists will sit on top. I will use 19/32 OSB floor/roof decking for the whole project.
For the joist hangers, would it be best to use deck screws or nails? It seems screws dont have as much sheer force but are much harder to pull out, and it seems if anything was to fail it would be the rim boards being pushed down and out by the weight of the roof..?
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If you use a screw it needs to be a structural screw or a ductile screw... might as well say you need a structural screw. Personally, I think you are overthinking that part. If horizontal from the roof gets to the rim you are already done. The floor sheathing is doing more than the hanger will. The hanger is also not rated in that direction. I believe a strap up the rim and onto the floor would do more if you think there is a need, that would complicate the plate nailing.
I think a 6x6 center girder is incorrect... talking through it... 8' post spacing x 12' tributary width on the girder=96 square feet x 50 pounds per square foot floor load (40psf live+10psf dead)= 4800 lbs
Going here;
http://www.timbertoolbox.com/Calcs/beamcalc.htm
inputs
4800 load
96 span
4.5 width
9.25 depth
For #2spf,
Fb 1106
E 1.4
Fv 135 ... I'm passing at a triple 2x10 girder
TABLE R502.5(2) GIRDER SPANS in the codebook is the other (correct) way to check it. 24' is between the table's 20' and 28' columns, you can interpolate. Looks like the same answer there. Do block between joists over the girder.
Just checked a 6x6 girder, about half of the section modulus needed, no go.
The internal piers for the 6x6 posts.
you've got 4800 lbs, a 12" circle is about .75 square feet... probably overloading the soil
They can be 2x8 boxes about 2' square, set diagonally, diamond, to the building footprint. Top of pier at top of slab elevation. Put a post base standoff under the post into the concrete to keep the foot of the post dry. If and when you put a slab in the footing is at floor level and makes for easy sawcuts. At that size footing soil load is about 1200 psf, check. Inside the perimeter you don't need to go down for the footing, not a frost heaving place.
Thanks for pointing that out. I figured a 6x6 would be plenty but i guess strength comes from vertical width. It looks like a triple 2x10 would barely not be enough according to the chart. Thats disappointing considering it would fit on a 6x6 post nicely. I guess i'll upgrade to 8x8 posts and use 4 2x10s sistered together as the girder, what do you think?
Also, yes, the 12" sonotube would be too little and i will take your solid advice on the post footing. I've only built a shed and a deck so i greatly appreciate your help with this project.
Quite welcome, keeps my thunker working.
In the beam equations (which model breaking tests) depth is squared where width is used straight. Deeper builds strength much faster. The 8x8 with a 4 ply girder will certainly work. Unless you live heavy the 6x6 and 3 ply 2x10 works. You can also move up to dougfir, stronger and stiffer than SPF, and then there is stepping up to 2x12's. If you use 2 layers of 1/2" ply in the build up, then run a 2x6 cleat up opposite sides of the post for a couple of feet and onto the girder it will connect those two well.
You are running fast, think way out ahead of the ball and feel free to ask if you see something.
Im having a hard time finding a triple 2x10 girder hanger for the CMU wall. It seems all of the hangers are for engineered lumber or large timbers and only go as high as a double 2x10 or double 2x12....https://www.strongtie.com/topflangemasonryhangers_masonryhangers/wm-wmi-wmu_productgroup_wcc/p/wm.wmi.wmu
Does anyone have any ideas for this? I've been speaking to an Ace hardware owner and he says it may be possible to have a hanger custom made? Any ideas?
For a dropped girder I've usually gone into a pocket in the foundation wall. Rest on steel or a treated plate and allow airspace around and on the end of the wood. Will this work in your situation?
Thats probably what i should have done but figured a masonry hanger would be fairly easy to acquire for triple 2x10....seems like the local hardware store is certain they can get one ordered now at least so hopefully that works out...filled all the cores finally, took 300 bags of concrete, way more than i had anticipated.
Was going to use some heavy duty column caps but they were over $120 each to hold a triple 2x10...not sure why they were so expensive, so going to have to go with the lighter double piece post beam connectors....as for building the triple 2x beam, do i need wood glue or is there a specific nailing pattern i should use?
If not a welding shop can fabricate them. This is what I meant about getting your head way out in front of the work, it is difficult but keeps things moving better if you can do it. I used to be able to do that :D. You can also raise the girder up onto the sill creating a flush girder and then hang the joists on the sides in hangers. This can cause plumbing issues if it needs to cross that zone and stay high.
The code nailing pattern for a girder is 32" oc top and bottom edges, staggered. I do top, middle and bottom rows about 12" on center, they look like a 45 degree angle across the face. For a dropped girder you are really just holding the parts in alignment, the joists rest on top of the girder and load them fairly uniformly. With a flush girder the joists are hanging on the outer plies and the nails provide the load sharing through to the inner plies, a better connection between plies is needed. I go ahead and stitch them together well either way. Glue does not make a beam stronger but does make it stiffer... if you get the plies drawn up tightly together.
If you are 2 piecing the rafters. The lower rafter piece can also support the second floor joist on its level top cut and the upper rafter piece passes by for several feet giving good lap. I would at least assemble the rafters on the deck into one piece to make sure they are nailed together in a straight line. You could assemble the entire rafter couple and joist into a tilt up frame.
Other ways to support a dropped girder... A steel post, either a solid "BOCA" post or a 3" min diameter schedule 40 pipe onto the footing with flat plates on each end (avoid telescoping posts) or a concrete pilaster. If you go that route it should be connected to the wall with some rebar, lag shields or similar between wall and pilaster. You'll probably need to expand the footing to do that one. Just more thoughts.
Thanks again for the info. Your idea of putting the girder on top of the sill plate seems like a good idea and im a bit doubtful ace hardware will pull through on the CMU hanger which isnt supposed to get here until Friday. Went with the diamond shaped 2x8x2 concrete squares you suggested. Glad to be done with concrete, that stuff really messes up your skin after prolonged exposure.
Heres what im going for on the rafters and upstairs floor joists... planning on assembling an entire rafter on the deck, making sure everything is good, and then using it as a template for the others. I'll build the lower half and raise it up in one piece (hopefully) and support it with a couple 2x4's until i have enough up to start the roof decking and upstairs floor to hold them together. Only half of the rafters will have floor joists as im going for an open loft/bedroom design to open everything up. All rafters will have 2x10 collars and plywood gussets to bring the rafters together. Pondering how much strength will be lost by not using the upper floor joists in half the structure...what do you think...the area does get a lot of snow, and will likely be piling up beyond the block wall...
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Concrete is rough on your hands. A beekeeper friend heats beeswax and mineral oil to make an salve that works pretty well, bag balm is another good one for healing it up but basically the best thing I've found is distance, always glad to be done with that phase. Shoot, I've got another round of it coming up, when I come down off the shiny metal tanning salon, porch piers :P
I'd just be guessing on whether that is a good plan to 2 piece the rafters. Where the break occurs at floor level I'm not too concerned, the rafter is pretty much the same as a wall up to a floor and then another wall up to the peak. Where the rafter is spliced in span like in the picture, well, you're splicing a beam in span. That is something I have never done and you have snow loads to beat the band. I don't agree with his splice point where he has floor joists, he's missed an opportunity to support the joists on something other than nails and he's got a splice in air. If there isn't a floor joist and you have to splice in span then I can see the thinking, he's moved the splice up as far as possible out of the load and maximum bending moment. I would make that lap as long as possible and nail it very well, drop the collar as far as possible. I suspect what will happen over time is the roof at the lofted end will stay flat and the clear section will sag in to some extent. You're the guinea pig, use deep rafters, lots of nails and long laps. Shooting through and clinching the nails gives them a good bit more shear strength. If there is a roof where it will work this is it, we don't want some armchair quarterback reading this to use that logic on a lower pitch.
A tji would be one piece and they would do the engineering, it may be cheaper than long laps and would sure be lighter to handle, likely faster. I'm not sure how they would handle the loft floor but that's what they get trained to do. Anyway just putting that out there.
Notice how the snow is piling up on those side sheds in the snow pic. It is keeping snow up on the roof and really loading the sheds, load and leak, forget that!
Sunday morning armchair quarterback here. ??? I've looked at this for my cabin with half-loft design. The code solution for an open ceiling area is to have ties on every other rafter. No floor, just a 2x running across every 4 feet. That often isn't very pretty and probably is never what a builder/designer is envisioning. The problem that they are typically addressing is withstanding the outward thrust of the roof rafters exerted on the top plate. Thus the rafter ties are in tension. Some builders opt to replace the sawn lumber tie with a steel cable to have the same effect. Again, not pretty but I imagine it's much less obtrusive visually. In my case I am opting for a structural ridge to take the lateral thrust out of the equation.
All of the above applies when the wall and rafter are separate. With the A-frame it's obviously different. With potentially large snow loads and perhaps wind too, is it more of an issue of preventing inward buckling rather than outward bowing? The solution would need to improve the resistance against downward/inward loads, and short of putting in a floor the answer is probably to stiffen the rafter. All the methods of stiffening a beam would apply: going deeper, wider, or improving the material properties of the beam.
Edit: forgot to mention reducing rafter spacing too, doh!
Recheck that... I believe the callout is rafter ties across every rafter couple, collar ties at every other.
An A frame is tied by the floor... although we drifted a bit outside of the prescriptive connection. I'm not worried at this pitch, again as the pitch lowers thrust increases and the connection becomes more critical.
I am mostly concerned with bending rather than outward thrust. I was going to do a math exercise but decided not to... you might enjoy it though. AWC's DA6, find the equations for a simple beam, load increasing toward one end, figure out where the splice is going to be and use the equation for finding bending moment anywhere along the beam, figure it for the splice point in the open area. I'm not going to pretend to engineer it. You're going to be guessing some variables, just a thought exercise.
Quote from: Don_P on August 29, 2016, 07:39:31 PM
Recheck that... I believe the callout is rafter ties across every rafter couple, collar ties at every other.
...
You are correct sir! No mention of rafter ties anywhere but at each rafter. Collar ties no further apart than 4' on center.
That used to be different, in the past you would have been correct. The reason for the changes... look at the heeljoint table at the end of the rafter span tables and look down to the lower pitches. The connection requirement can get out of hand. We do not have that issue here but they have to draw the prescriptive line somewhere. When I started we were coming off the ranch/ Wright design era with 4/12's being the norm, high potential thrust loads and open ceilings. People were doubling up the ties on every other rafter or wider and those connections were in distress. That's just background info, we're typically steeper nowadays and we certainly are are here so you are not wrong. My Dad had easier walking roofs most of the time than I've had. This is probably pm stuff to avoid confusing the issue at hand ;)
Off to be a concreature, what I heard her say was "pour guy" :D
The home depot wood delivery was delayed until this Saturday, and time is of the essence, so i drove 1.5 hrs to the nearest home depot yesterday and picked up x40 2x10x16. I picked them up for about $16 bucks a pop versus buying locally at $25 each! I would not load that much wood in my 2005 f250 again, as it was hanging out about 6ft with my rear shocks maxed out, and unstable despite being tied down as best i could.
The 20ft shipping container finally got dropped off, and the driver was a bit pissed as he muttered "This is not a normal delivery"...luckily he only got one flat. Paid $2640 for that container but had no choice as we need a dry storage area for moving our crap out next week. Considering the entire wood order for the A-frame was $3900, i could have built one hellavu storage shed. Luckily a friend managed to borrow a bobcat mini excavator and dug the garage out and cleared a lot of stumps/manzanita and improved the road...impressive little machine!
Got the 6x6's posts setup in one day, along with the sill plates and girder, put the double 2x10 rim joists up in another day, and just finished half the floor joists today...goes a bit quicker when working with wood versus concrete, and my wife has been able to help a lot lately. The remaining floor joists will be put up tomorrow (if i can buy the 2x10x12's locally) and hopefully i'll be ready to put the OSB over the joists by saturday when the delivery arrives...still have to drive in x170 2x10x16s and a lot of OSB, so not sure how long that will take.
Some of these 2x10x16s are extremely heavy and wet. Seems like the wet ones weigh twice as much as the semi dry boards. If the home depot delivery has a lot of wet boards, i dont see how i could get the rafters up without letting them dry for several days first.
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Just seeing that stack of concrete bags makes me tired. ;)
Amen to that. It's looking good though.
Double check the center girder, I think it needs to be a triple;
http://codes.iccsafe.org/app/book/content/VA/2012_VA_Residential_HTML/Chapter%205.html
Look at table 502.5(2)
It is possible to do a wheelie and dump the entire load in the road... or so I've heard :D Borrow a trailer if you can, it'll save the truck and haul lots more.
Most of this work is hauling the materials in...i'd be happy if they dropped it off within 3 miles. Anyway, maybe its just the pic but the center girder is a triple 2x10...all doug fir.
[cool] Carry on :)
Lookin real good.
Did you use line blocks to run the string for the posts? Man those have been my favorite tool, carpenters are missing out. Way better than nailing off 8d's and winding string around them to try to get em tight.
Some of my lumber got wet, or was delivered wet and it sure does make a difference in lifting. I've got about 12 or 16 rafters left for my roof. This has been one job that I stop before I am tired because walking a 2x6 plate at 20' up I don't want to trip.
Lifting both rafters together, it might be tough to get proper leverage. Putting up a ridge board would be tricky and would require scaffolding or getting creative with triangles.
For scaffolding, if you don't have access to metal scaffold, I build a pair of light "walls" to the height needed with a diagonal across them to brace, stand and spread them apart, these are the "ends" a top and bottom horizontal 2x across each side and an X at each side to form a rigid box then some 2x's laid across and a couple of sheets of ply on top for a floor. Keep it light enough to drag as you work.
Nathan- Yea i used the block string....started to unwind the string and then thought what the hell am i doing, these will work perfect.
Checked out your build, man that has to be a bit nerve racking putting rafters that high up. Thats the last beast i have to slay and i'm not looking forward to it...good luck to you!!!
Thanks Don_P...i'm thinking i will probably have to put together something like that. The 2x10's have almost all been sopping wet, heavy as hell. Home depot changed the schedule again...wont have the x170 2x10x16 until Wednesday...said they're going to at least drop off the OSB tomorrow (hopefully) so i can finish the floor...will probably spend the next four days moving my junk out of my current house and building a front porch with stairs so i can get the materials up past the CMU wall easier. Something i would have to do shortly anyhow. Thinking i'll use four 6x6's spread ~8ft apart and run 2x10x12s out to the tops of the posts from the rim joist via joist hanger every 16" and connect them into another set of 2x10s running over the tops of the 6x6s. I'll use 2x12's for the stairs, and connect the 6x6 to the 2x10 with a post cap.
Quote from: MountainDon on September 01, 2016, 11:41:59 PM
Just seeing that stack of concrete bags makes me tired. ;)
My back hurts just looking at them.
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Been a while since i have updated. Using a phone to post this which is rather difficult. Been living in a wall tent since sept 13. Have to go pick up windows and a door and i can begin framing it in. Waiting for metal roofing wood stove insulation siding and stove pipe to arrive. Wood stove weighs 500lbs. Do i need to reinforce the floor joists below the stove??Also does anyone have any idea on the roof flashing for where the stove pipe goes through the roof to make it so water doesnt get through? Ill be using 12ft of triple wall insulatrd chimney pipe the whole way through so not too concerned about heat.
This whole journey of yours just impresses the hell out of us here [cool]
How far did you get? The roof on yet --- and stove in and working?
Keep us updated .... ;)
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What a beautiful place!
Finally spring has arrived after a long winter. Not really much work you can do outside during the winter as the only way in and out is with a snowmobile if you can even get in and out with that. We received record breaking precipitation, mostly in the form of rain...we would get 4ft of snow followed by 12" of rain in short spans of time which created massive 5ft deep snow ditches which were impassible on a snowmobile. We have kept 3-5ft of snow on the ground since late December and currently have around 3ft on the ground.. We love the harsh winter weather which is why we chose this area as it adds an entire element of remoteness to the off grid experience. My wife and i have been crapping out in the woods, sometimes in the middle of a straight up blizzard or torrential rainfall, drinking out of a creek 100yards away, and cooking everything we eat over a wood stove. This has been a great experience as you realize really how unnecessary things like microwave ovens, television, gas stoves are. Because we didnt have access to showers, we would take ice cold baths in the creek...the only thing we really miss is indoor plumbing. Our refrigeration consisted of a large ice chest stored outside in the snow which worked great.
My first priority when the snow melts will be getting the water supply in order followed by building a workshop, kennel for our 3 dobermans, a large garden, finishing the indoor plumbing/rain catchment, putting in new roads, cord-wood floors, improving our solar setup, building a wood shed, putting in a concrete pad under the house along with framing half of it in, fireproofing the area and building a pond.
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This pic is of the top of my wife's jeep
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This pic is of our truck which we park at the paved road several miles away after a snowstorm
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This is the view from our upstairs bedroom looking towards the sierra crest.
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That is some serious snowfall. We got about 30" a week or so ago, which was near record for a 24 hour period around here.
Been really happy with our wood cookstove too. One starter fire + 2 big logs yesterday I accidentally ran it up to 74 inside, never got above 15 outside. Woodstoves have no moving parts and should last a lifetime. You need a chainsaw living out there anyway, so the firewood costs almost nothing. Then you compare that with these 10-15k boilers that people install, that last maybe 10-15 years. You start adding up the costs, and all the headaches that they're too complex to fix yourself. Wonder what the hell we're buying this stuff for?
Looking forward to seeing more of your progress.
Quote from: black_edelweiss on March 22, 2017, 10:26:25 PMMy first priority when the snow melts will be getting the water supply in order followed by building a workshop, kennel for our 3 dobermans, a large garden, finishing the indoor plumbing/rain catchment, putting in new roads, cord-wood floors, improving our solar setup, building a wood shed, putting in a concrete pad under the house along with framing half of it in, fireproofing the area and building a pond.
Sounds like you're going to need to find a hobby to keep you busy in your spare time ;D
Quote from: black_edelweiss on March 22, 2017, 10:26:25 PM
...
My first priority when the snow melts will be getting the water supply in order followed by building a workshop, kennel for our 3 dobermans, a large garden, finishing the indoor plumbing/rain catchment, putting in new roads, cord-wood floors, improving our solar setup, building a wood shed, putting in a concrete pad under the house along with framing half of it in, fireproofing the area and building a pond.
...
The advice I got last week was to build the sauna first. The guy I was talking to was lamenting that it took him 30 years before he got a sauna.
Have you got access to free timber? A bandsaw mill can be had for a small investment and is great for making rough timbers and rustic lumber. you might need that for all your additional to-do items.
What a great place. Looks like a completely exhausting build with all those bags of concrete and brick.
Totally love your view from the window. That make it worth while I'm sure. Love your deck.
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