(//www.angelfire.com/ar3/jared/cowan.jpg)
Can't open the link. I would tell you how to do it, but I don't know
Is this the image?
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That looks like it Jimmy.
To me it looks like something you don't see much of, but in my opinion the best. It looks like real wood-- I would say it is reverse board and batten. This leaves a good rain screen wall behind.
Oh man Angelfire is really burning my butt. Thanks for the post, though. What about 1x12's butted together? Board and batten has small boards between the bigger ones, right? I don't really like that at all. But I love this house and it's what my wife and I are going for.
The battens serve a purpose. Help to keep the wind and critters out and stop the edges from curling on you.
If you want to do flat vertical wood siding you will need to get a T&G material as wood must be able to expand and contract freely and for the reasons Shelly has just mentioned.
I think I saw someplace that you can nail down the batten first, maybe a 1 x 3 or so then nail down the 1 x 12 over it keeping 2 nails toward the center allowing the outside edges to expand and contract for reverse board and batten - reverse that for regular board and batten.
Seems it may have been in the PDF framing manual - not sure. :-/
I think Glenn is right , to far away to be sure . With a 1X12 I'd be doing 1x3 , 1x2 , 1x3 . the 1x3 centered under / behind the 1x12 joint , and the 1x2 centered under the 1x12 . I'd use two nails only in the 1x12 ,1 1/2( est.) in from each edge of the 1x12 so it could work , the 1x2 would just be to back out the 1 x12 from excess warping . Of coarse the two nails meaning horz., every 16 to 18 inch vertical.
I'd also have horz. blocking in the framed wall for those nails to grab , not just the sheathing . ( longer nails than normal would be required. ) Paper as normal , flashing details would need to figure all that in , (added depth).
I'd also back prime with one coat of what ever was applied to / or will be applied to the face in the future. Even if it is just a clear finish.
If it will be raw wood always , forever , I'd still mop on a clear sealer to the back . Any that ran over to the face will bleed out in the sun in short order , a season at most .
HTBH ;)PEG
Sounds like a good plan PEG. I used the Firefox image zoom feature to zoom in on the picture -blew it up double size -bigger gets pretty grainy --and to me it does look like real 1x12's.
Reverse board and batten is probably correct. I saw some of the same in Northern New York on a relative's house a few weeks ago. The siding was stained grey. The house had been up for a few decades and some of the boards were starting to cup and warp so I was able to see behind the boards to see the bats.
So what's a good alternative to this and still achieve that look?
Personally to me this looks like 5/8" " T1-11. If you look at the gable end wall you see the seam where the 8 foot lengths of T1-11 end. If were using board and batten or reversed board and batten I wouldn't expect to see this seam. There is lumber yard around where I live that sells some pretty deep cut grooves in their 5/8" T1-11
I guess it could be -and that is what would look like it.
To me,, it looks like boards . Lots of grain , and mostly knots , T-111 , or T1-11 doesn't look as different panel to panel as those do , and doesn't telagrafe (sp) the knots like real wood .
Nothing will look like wood if it ain't wood .
If the wife likes it , I'd just figure it in :)
You could use really cheap stuff , or some local rough sawn , if it's cheaper for the under battens.
HTBH ;)PEG
I think the whole point of board and batten was so that you could get your house/barn up in a hurry, using green wood.
Probably still can. Hence all the advice on nailing patterns.
I think you're right, Amanda, and also thinking about it more, I also think T1-11 is a poor imitation of reverse board and batten. I like the real thing better even with its occasional shrink, warp or crack.
I believe that sawmills around here sell "barnwood." That is, freshly sawn, rough-cut more-or-less random width and species.
For a good deal less than kiln dried, single species, single width, planed wood.
Mind you, the thicker forms of T1-11 are plywood and will work as corner bracing, etc.
Pays your money and takes your choice.
That brings me to a question, Amanda. Will a 1x4 or a double steel strap replace a plywood panel brace equally? What is an equivalent???
I don't know.
When I was framing in the 70's, we thought the let-in 1x4 did.
That was in 2x4 framing, don't know if that would be worse or better than the 2x6 that is now common (more likely to twist?)
QuoteThat brings me to a question, Amanda. Will a 1x4 or a double steel strap replace a plywood panel brace equally? quote]
No. Unless your engineer stamps it , and he won't . Unless you have no windows , then , well no . They love those BWP , ABWP , IBWP's they won't go away , any time soon . HTBH ;)PEG
Now that you mentioned it PEG, an engineer did design a post and beam house with strawbale infill for a friend of ours with fairly serious steel strapping.
Not sure if you mean code-equivalent or strength-equivalent, but in
Do-It-Yourself Housebuilding (which John reviewed at http://www.countryplans.com/books.html; purchase via http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0806904240/countryplanscom),
the author provides some numbers giving the relative racking resistance of different sheathing/bracing:
| horizontal 3/4" T&G boards nailed | 1.0 |
| let-in 2x4 | 2.6 |
| diagonal 3/4" T&G boards nailed | 4.3 |
| 1/2" plywood nailed | 6 |
| 1/2" plywood glued | 34 |
Don't know where he got those numbers, and no number was given for steel strapping.
That is exactly what I was interested in, Bart. Thanks a bunch.
In the negligible seismic (but not quite negligible tornado--although I don't think we believed in them as much as we did later) areas of middle Tennessee, of thirty some years ago, it may not have made that much difference.
But I never quite understood why the experts told us that either let in 1x4 or nailed on plywood were equally strong.
Wagner's book on framing talks about, but does not show--ever--the let-in 1x4.
Board sheathing and the let-in bracing required to hold the wall up is pretty much a relic of the past.
The installed cost of board sheathing and let in bracing (wood or metal) is much more than OSB sheathing. Considering boards are inferior structurally and will be covered up anyway, why would anyone build that way today.
Answer, they don't.
In some areas they use no structural sheathing except at the corners. In those cases metal strapping is used to give some racking resistance to the wall.
Interesting.
I came across the the 1998 edition (completely revised and updated, it swears on the cover) of Charlie Wing's Visual Handbook and it still lists 1x4 let-in bracing as a option for a lot of situations.
1-story, or the top story of two or three, in all seismic zones.
In higher seismic areas, structural sheathing for everything else. (e.g., if you were going up three stories only the top story could have let-in bracing).
So, yep, it was in use, and if you are in the low-danger seismic areas, minimal codes enforcement, and did not want to use sheathing for whatever reason you might still be OK using the let-in bracing with stud construction.
Although some sort of timber framing, real or made up from 2x lumber might be a better idea.