I'm new here and new to how to build a house.

[youngster]

hello,

     I have been reading this forum for a couple months now but just became a member. I might as well give you a low down about myself and what my plans are so that all of you can get a general idea of whats going on. I am 24, single and planning to stay that way. I am a military aircraft maintainer and have also been doing basic industrial building maintenance for the last 5 yrs. Over the last couple years the military has taught me to work with my hands and figure things out the best I can but when the information is out there I am more than willing to ask for help from ppl that know more than I do (which is just about everyone on here haha). I have whittled down all my expenses over the years and currently have no debt and bare bones bills. The problem is rent and utilities... I have industrial buildings that i can store as much materials as i need so that I can accumulate supplies as I go, I have a good income, plenty of time, and property to build that is only .5 miles from my apartment...so I thought i should figure something out.

Now for the house. My parents gave me a small chunk of land that was the last thing left from their divorce. It isn't much standing at 45' by 141' going length wise along a small back road. The entire property is sloped except for where a small house use to be that burnt down and a garage that needs demolished (to be taken care of this spring). Pictures below.   


The garage is two stories and sits 19'6" x 19'6" on the interior and it is made of cinder-blocks. It will have to be demolished do to the roof collapsing on the opposite side from where the photo was taken. Also, the cinder-blocks in the basement are pushed out 2-3 inches or have already fallen out in multiple areas. There is also a small cinder-block addition on the backside of the garage...

The addition is 20' x13' measured from the exterior.

The foundation from the exterior looks in good condition but I will have to do some cleanup before I can see what the interior concrete has to offer. Here are some more pictures of the property.


And here is where the house once stood...it was a very small two story house...


Sorry about all the pictures but I figured it would give a better idea. The property is located about 40 mins North of Pittsburgh. The information I have gathered so far from the codes is that they have adopted the BOCA National Building Code, Twelfth Edition, 1993 which I understand has the IRC as part of it? I am not good with codes. They hurt my tiny brain. I do know that the only amendments I noticed they have done to the codes for the borough is lower permit costs and changes to flood permits which dont apply to a man living on a very large hill (I assume). To tap into water it would cost $1400, sewage line $2100. Both of these of course do not include the work needed to get the piping to any future house. I have draw up many many many house plans using google sketchup but the problem with that is that I assume it would cost a fortune to have it engineered. I have heard about some under 200sf thing but know really nothing about it. I would prefer a nice simple 12x16 house similar the the beavers fella that has posted his progress on here.. http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=7250.0 just without the sink the the bathroom to cut the bathroom down to about 4' x 6'. The problem with all of this is I dont really know if it would be easier to design my own and get it engineered or use the 12x18 on here. Or would I be able to use the foundation from the 13x 20? All and all I plan on getting a permit then demoing the garage and cleaning up the lot but then I really have no idea of what to do after that...any help on any stage of this would be amazing. Thank you all in advance and once again sorry that it was so drawn out. I just wanted to make sure I was thorough.

[firefox]

  I am sure the folks here will offer assistance.
Bruce

[MountainDon]

 

You mentioned the expense of an engineer. Not every place requires plans be drawn/stamped by an engineer. Some do, though. In many places owner drawn plans can be submitted and approved. The permit department checks them and if okay approves them. Some may make changes where something was not right. Don't expect a through redraw for free though.

Codes are prescriptive, that is they illustrate methods, that if done correctly and with care, do not require an engineer. They show that if this or that is done it is okay. If the property is in one of those areas that require drawings stamped by an engineer, well there's not much you can do about that. So, IMO, the first step would be to determine what the county, township or whatever requires of the plans. Do they issue building permits (and collect fees) for the structure, the electrical, the plumbing, or do they simply enforce sanitation rules? Do they require adherence to energy codes? Determine all those things that may be required before getting deep into the planning stages.

Some plans, like John's, come with permission to modify with no limits. It is up to the owner builder to be certain that the changes desired are practical and constitute good design/building practise. It is easy to take a good plan, make changes without enough thought and end up with n unsafe building. Codes can help with making something safe. They are intimidating to look at, but everything is broken down into sections.

[youngster]

You mentioned the expense of an engineer. Not every place requires plans be drawn/stamped by an engineer. Some do, though. In many places owner drawn plans can be submitted and approved. The permit department checks them and if okay approves them. Some may make changes where something was not right. Don't expect a through redraw for free though.

Codes are prescriptive, that is they illustrate methods, that if done correctly and with care, do not require an engineer. They show that if this or that is done it is okay. If the property is in one of those areas that require drawings stamped by an engineer, well there's not much you can do about that. So, IMO, the first step would be to determine what the county, township or whatever requires of the plans. Do they issue building permits (and collect fees) for the structure, the electrical, the plumbing, or do they simply enforce sanitation rules? Do they require adherence to energy codes? Determine all those things that may be required before getting deep into the planning stages.

Some plans, like John's, come with permission to modify with no limits. It is up to the owner builder to be certain that the changes desired are practical and constitute good design/building practise. It is easy to take a good plan, make changes without enough thought and end up with n unsafe building. Codes can help with making something safe. They are intimidating to look at, but everything is broken down into sections.

Thanks for the info. This is what my borough's ecodes page provided me...
Code Reference      Type      Amount
__    Miscellaneous administrative    
      Information request    $3.00 each;
         $0.25 per page
      Lien letter    $10.00
      Tax letter    $12.00
      Accident report    $5.00
§ 66-14    Building permit application    
      Construction amount    
         $1 to $500    $5.00
         $501 to $2,000    $10.00
         $2,001 to $25,000    $10.00, plus $4.00 for each additional $1,000 or part thereof
         $25,001 to $50,000    $102.00, plus $3.00 for each additional $1,000 or part thereof
         $50,001 to $100,000    $177.00, plus $2.00 for each additional $1,000 or part thereof
         $100,001 to $500,000    $277.00, plus $1.50 for each additional $1,000 or part thereof
         $500,001 to unlimited    $877.00, plus $1.00 for each additional $1,000 or part thereof
§ 66-32B       Inspections (new construction and additions need 2 inspections)    $12.50 each
      Demolition permit    $10.00
§ 127-6       Peddling and soliciting license fees    $3.00 per day; $25.00 per year
§ 131-2B       Plumbing inspections    $12.50 each
         Changes require 1 inspection New bathroom requires 2 New house requires 3    
§ 142-10       Sewer charges    
         Minimum rates    See § 142-10A
         Rental rates    See § 142-10B
         Tapping fee and bond    See § 142-10E
§ 142-29       Wastewater system fees    To be set by Borough Council on a case-by-case basis
§ 146-4B       Fees and deposits for garbage service and products    To be determined by resolution
§ 155-10       Road opening bond    $250.00
Chapter 182,       Water service rates    
Article I          Rates and charges    See § 182-2
         Reinstatement of water service    See § 182-4C
         Nonresident charges    See § 182-6
         Tapping charge    See § 182-9
§ 182-13       Surcharge for water use during restriction    See § 182-13
--       Water turnoff or turn-on request    $20.00

This was all provided via http://www.ecode360.com/?custId=EV1425

[youngster]

Ill have to call the borough and find out the rest of the info but thanks again!

[Don_P]

Do call and confirm the code version you are on. I suspect that is an outdated link. PA has adopted the '09 IRC with sprinkler provisions. I don't believe a jurisdiction can water down the state codes, they can only make more stringent provisions... but the local building department rules and no need to tell them if they don't want to be tougher  .

The 200 sf exemption is technically for non habitable utility buildings, no power, no water. again I've seen this stretched, but wouldn't count on it.

Generally the prescriptive provisions of the code are accepted without engineering but some places have adopted tighter regulations that require engineering on everything. They are usually in high wind or seismic areas though. An engineer's review is never a bad idea. Talking to one the other night he said that from decent plans he would often perform a review, check and spec members and connections for around $500. Of course that is going to vary widely but might help with perceptions. It would probably take an engineer's letter to reuse any of the existing foundations, but there again it may be cheaper than redoing if any are good.

[devildog]

Welcome youngster, great post.  My thoughts are always to try and use what you've got. If the 13x20 addition has a good solid foundation and is square and straight,I'd use it. Demo the garage of course.you could use 14' lumber and cantilever 1' on one side and save alot of money with no foundation cost.

Darrell

[youngster]

Thanks guys for all the help. Ill update with any new info. I will be going tomorrow to clear out some of the small trees and bushes since it is expected to be nice. Once again thanks!

[Texas Tornado]

  Since a house was there already why would you need a new water connection and septic?

[archimedes]

I gather that you are in PA.   If so,  have you considered going with a "recreational cabin" under PA statutes?

If you're only going to build something 12 X 16 (or similar),  that may be the way to go.


http://www.pacode.com/secure/data/034/chapter403/s403.1.html

http://www.pacode.com/secure/data/034/chapter401/s401.1.html

http://www.paconstructioncodesacademy.org/pdfs/Rec_Cabin_Exclusion_Form.pdf

If you have some place else nearby to receive your mail (and register to vote),  and you keep it under 1000 sq ft,   no permit is required.  You do have to fib,  a bit,   and say that it will NOT be your primary residence,  but they are very common in PA.  

The building codes were not designed for people who want to live in small houses.  Going through the permitting process for a 12X16 ft building,  that you want to live in,  is going to be challenging.

You live in one of the few states that has adpted the int'l building code that has some form of exemption built in for small "recreational "  buildings.  I'd use it.

Good luck

[youngster]

Texas Tornado- the old house burnt down in '85 and used a tiny septic tank which is no longer there. As for the water, i have no idea if i could reconnect to that line or not but the old house was in a bad location on the property also so i dont know...

Archimedes- Your my hero.

[archimedes]

Glad I could help.

Make sure you post lots of pics of your project for us.