How would I build this stair???

Started by John_M, January 30, 2006, 06:54:11 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

John_M

Just a really cool image.  Is there a special code for this stair.  Would love to figure it out?

I'm thinking just cutting a small wedge out and then inverting it and laying the stair tread on top of it?  

Is that too simple??


jraabe

#1
This stair could satisfy your inspector (it would likely require a railing on the open side).

An open tread design like this has no special problems in most jurisdictions. Your basic concept should work. There are probably some hidden fasteners and careful finish work we don't see in this photo.


glenn-k

You could probably dowel and glue it for strength and hiding fasteners.

peg_688

#3
QuoteJust a really cool image.  Is there a special code for this stair.  Would love to figure it out?

I'm thinking just cutting a small wedge out and then inverting it and laying the stair tread on top of it?  

Is that too simple??




  John I'd say yes to simple . The wedge pieces would be to easy to split and the force on that joint with a person using the stair would be pretty great.

If you look close at the first two "wedges " on the near stair horse / stringer , you'll see a little reveal line .   I'd think those   pine boards showing  are" cover boards "and behind them (inside) would be a 2x8  or 2x10 sub stringer and those wedges would set on those, with fillet running one to another trapping the wedge looking deal in place .  Those wedge looking things would be long grain lumber with a angle cut on one end to get that level spot the tread is on right/ level.


 I'd also thing either a dovetail or a dado joint would be used to attach the tread to the vertical wedge looking deal .

Although there is a spot on tread#1 that could be a big plug covering a bolt , or it could be a spot on the picture can't tell :-/

 The "wedge looking deals also appear to be 2" thick , more than 1 1/2" from the photo. Again can't quite tell for sure .

 You got any other photos of it  to get a better look ?

 I'm guess on some of it but that little reveal line on the first two stepped tells me thats how they did it . And that's how I'd do it if some one asked me to build it .

 Good luck , PEG

hobbiest

#4
I agree on the construction PEG.  Dove tails would be slick for the treads but I've got crazier ideas (read on).  I would suggest a radically cut stringer of 2x12, covered on both sides with 1xwhatever-it-takes.  The 1x should be glued and nailed.  Alternatively you can screw and plug, but for the truely seamless look, use dowels or biscuits.  Biscuits would allow for some misalignment between parts, but perhaps the best way to compensate for this, would be to have your 1x wider than you need it to be, and dry fit your parts.  Upon dry fit, scribe your cut line, then cut 1/8" wide of the line, use a flush trimming router bit to finish it off.  The treads should be secured with biscuits, dowels, or mortise and tenon.  M&T could be blind, where you wouldn't see it from the top side, or through cut, fitting flush with the top of the tread, and wedged.  The latter would be especially striking with a contrasting hardwood wedge!  In my drawing, there are two different colored stringer cuts.  Green, and red.  The black rectangle represents the uncut stringer material.  Basically, I woud cut the stringer how I need it, then fill the rest inn with scrap material.  You could also lay out your stringers, then lay your finish boards on top, scribe for the edge of the finish boards, and cut away your waste.  Hey, for your balusters, you could continue the through mortises up to the rail.  You wouldn't really have to have an uninterupted piece, but could have two; the stringer, and the baluster, doweled together at the bottom.  Finish off the piece by briving tusk wedges where the balusters meet the tread.  These are just some ideas.  This could be an extrememely fun project!  Time consuming, but fun!


jonseyhay

#5
I am in agreement with Peg also. I think that the wedge is a mortice and tenon joint that has been end capped. An easy way for the home handyman to build this would be to cut the pockets out of two pieces of timber and laminate to form the stringer. The drawing below will give you an idea of how to do this. Glue of choice would be an epoxy, (not the 5-minute kind) although foaming glue like gorilla glue would work. I don't think gorilla glue is strictly structural, but I think it would work fine in this situation.

               

peg_688

Nice job guys with those computer graphics  :)  More than one way to do it , right Glenn  ;) There's always another way :) Have a great day , PEG.

glenn-k

Right, PEG.  I'm gonna go out and carefully play with my water hose - wet down and pack a bit more earth then off to real work.  I don't want to spend the whole day with wet knickers. :-/

Have a good day everyone.

glenn-k

It looks like if all of your ideas were combined you could come out with the ultimate stairway. :)





or something that wouldn't work at all--no way. ;D


Just kidding around - but taking several ideas and using the best parts of all can really improve a project.  As with Jimmy and the stock plans, I change time after time before I'm complete but then I only have the meat plans --between my ears. :-/  



glenn-k

#10
Quotecareful craftsmen

I was there too, John. :'(

jonsey/downunder

#11
The more I look at the photo, the more inclined I am to think that hobbiest is pretty much on the money. Either way it's a fairly elegant method of getting a stair like that. I would be inclined to use a good quality marine grade ply for the core, probably Okoume, edged capped as shown. It would take a bit of planning but is a reasonably simple method of accomplishing the goal. Here is an exploded view that will give you a good idea of the method.

               


I've got nothing on today. This is not to say I'm naked. I'm just sans........ Plans.