Waterproof Sealer - tanks- basements - other stuff

glenn kangiser · March 06, 2008, 02:36:55 AM

http://www.sanitred.com/permatechdata.htm

Looking for a tank sealer for a rusty water tank -- for inside. This is the best I found and looks like it has other good uses also.

Relatively cheap for what it can do I think.

Willy · March 06, 2008, 04:34:25 PM

Quote from: glenn kangiser on March 06, 2008, 02:36:55 AM
http://www.sanitred.com/permatechdata.htm

Looking for a tank sealer for a rusty water tank -- for inside. This is the best I found and looks like it has other good uses also.

Relatively cheap for what it can do I think.

That stuff looks like it would work to coat the inside of my steel water tank on my water tender It is just bare steel because I never could find a product I could trust to stay on it and not just peal off later in chunks. By what I read it goes right over rust and bonds air tight to it. I realy only need to seal weld seams to stop pin hole leaks that may develop and those are a total of 56 ft but to do the whole tank square footage is only 350 sq ft. Looks like a few gallons at 100.00 a gal would do the job. Beats replacing the tank in 10 years or so! Thanks for the link I saved it. If you use some soon let me now how it turns out. Mark

March 07, 2008, 03:36:54 AM

I agree- this is the best sounding stuff I have found -- at least from the specs and info. Just remove the loose stuff and the rest becomes part of the bond. Sounds like it would be great for you too.

I think I will get a couple gallons - I have a 16' dia plus a little I want to coat.

glenn kangiser · March 10, 2008, 12:16:26 PM

Ordered 3 gallons this morning. Will see how service is.

Willy · March 10, 2008, 04:21:56 PM

Quote from: glenn kangiser on March 10, 2008, 12:16:26 PM
Ordered 3 gallons this morning. Will see how service is.

Let me know how easy it goes on. I need to put it inside a tank which has a little surface rust but not pitting yet. I could use a roller and brush but not able to spray cause the 6 chambers are 4 ft square I have to work in. I have holes in the baffles to craw around thru them but it is not something I look forward to doing. I will have to torch 2 more to get back to rear chambers still and make bolt on plates to cover them. The steel is still nice inside the tank so it would not be much prep work if some slite surface dusting rust does not matter. I keep the tank dry all winter and full to the brim during the summer and little air gets to the sides to cause rust when it is wet. Mark

March 10, 2008, 09:43:33 PM

Re-reading the specs and information, this stuff looks the best I've seen. It uses the rust for grab -- remove the loose stuff only. It claims it will hold water back in basement concrete walls and floors if painted on the inside also. Check out the testimonials.

I received order acknowledgment shortly after ordering on-line. Phone order line wasn't answered -- recording only.

glenn kangiser · March 18, 2008, 01:42:24 PM

I received the order in about 3 days. Fast service. Material needs to be stored at 70 degrees for 24 hours before use to not be too thick. Can be thinned and cleaned up with xylene.

I ordered a gallon of the LRB - liquid rubber base to repair the corners which had cracks and pinholes. I also ordered the TAV - 1 quart thickener activator to mix with some of it for vertical application if necessary like the vertical section of the bottom corner.

Instructions may vary based on application info you supply them at order time.

Willy · March 18, 2008, 01:59:47 PM

Quote from: glenn kangiser on March 18, 2008, 01:42:24 PM
I received the order in about 3 days. Fast service. Material needs to be stored at 70 degrees for 24 hours before use to not be too thick. Can be thinned and cleaned up with xylene.

I ordered a gallon of the LRB - liquid rubber base to repair the corners which had cracks and pinholes. I also ordered the TAV - 1 quart thickener activator to mix with some of it for vertical application if necessary like the vertical section of the bottom corner.

Instructions may vary based on application info you supply them at order time.

I am confused on what to get or need for my application. All I want to do is coat the steel tank including the corners since the tank is like a big shoe box. The tank does not leak I just want to coat it to keep it from rusing out and getting leaks. Paint won't realy do this for very long being under water and on a bare steel surface. What did you figure was needed for this type of application. I also want to order some soon before I have to fill the tank with water again in a month or two. The only welded seams are on the 4-side corners and the 4-bottom corners. Mark

glenn kangiser · March 18, 2008, 11:59:03 PM

If it is in good condition, I think you only need the Permaflex. Just get the loose stuff off of it then probably 2 coats I think.

The tank I am working on has a few pinholes I am repairing -- best I can. Some are the size of a dime and more could develop-- electrolysis holes so they are random. I'll bet you could also ad a zinc cathode to your tank to help stop it from pitting, Mark. The chunk of zink would get eaten first - like a Perry filter in an engine. I am putting the liquid rubber base in the corners as it has been repaired there several times and I fixed another today. The LRB gets as hard as a tire so will stop breakouts as the water is only 11 feet deep max. The permaflex is the primer and topcoat for it also. You can always add it later if you ever have a problem, but at this point I don't think you need it.

Propane tank cathodes -- I'll bet you could fasten one to your baffles.

http://www.cpdesigncenter.com/propanetext.pdf

March 19, 2008, 11:55:38 AM

Quote from: glenn kangiser on March 18, 2008, 11:59:03 PM
If it is in good condition, I think you only need the Permaflex. Just get the loose stuff off of it then probably 2 coats I think.

The tank I am working on has a few pinholes I am repairing -- best I can. Some are the size of a dime and more could develop-- electrolysis holes so they are random. I'll bet you could also ad a zinc cathode to your tank to help stop it from pitting, Mark. The chunk of zink would get eaten first - like a Perry filter in an engine. I am putting the liquid rubber base in the corners as it has been repaired there several times and I fixed another today. The LRB gets as hard as a tire so will stop breakouts as the water is only 11 feet deep max. The permaflex is the primer and topcoat for it also. You can always add it later if you ever have a problem, but at this point I don't think you need it.

Propane tank cathodes -- I'll bet you could fasten one to your baffles.

http://www.cpdesigncenter.com/propanetext.pdf

Glen you got a point there on the electrolysis cause I had to fix to small leaks that were identically looking on the bottom of the tank. They had a bullet hole in glass look to them. The crater pattern was about 1 1/2" accross with a pin hole in the middle. Each leak was in opposite sides of the tank bottom but in the same spot. It was weird cause there was no reason for the leaks and the rest of the tank was either clean looking metal or light surface powder rust! Maybe I should try a magnesium anode out of a water heater ect to stop this if this is what caused it. When the leaks started dripping I could not figure where they were till I got inside the tank. They were right over the sub frame rails welded to the tank 8 inches each from the front end. No weld was near them so that did not start the leak?? I will get me a anode just in case for the tank and bolt it inside since I can't do the in the ground method. I might add a copper Jump wire from the trucks frame to the tank also even tho it has a bolted area at the back of the tank and spring mounts at the front so the tank can move away from the trucks frame when it flexes off road. That may be why it happen in the front of the tank being a different resistance flow there? Mark

glenn kangiser · March 20, 2008, 01:14:25 AM

That is exactly what it is, Mark. I have seen entire well casings eaten out in 7 years. Water sets up little electrical currents in your tank with metal transferring to another spot in the tank - it will flow toward Brass if I recall correctly, rust will form in a different area of the tank -- maybe headed toward the brass or some other current flow area -- just like plating a bumper. Same as a Perry filter on an old diesel engine - although that would not be practical on this size of application. Different current flows can be set up by different structural areas of the tank causing different magnetic fields which could effect the pitting area. I commonly see different arc blow when welding caused by the location of the ground. Moving it will change the way the weld flows.

I'm really sure that is what is causing your pitting. The Permaflex will help also.