How do the beams join at the corners? For example, do they each get cut at 45 degrees to form a mitered butt joint, do I remove the top 50% from one and the bottom 50% from the other at the corner and join with a lap joint?
Does the "Black poly VB at soil" just get laid on the ground? Does it need any fasteners? Should it be cut to fit around posts or is this not necessary?
I can't find "Ace Post Caps" to connect the posts to the beam at HD or Loews. Do these go by an alternative name? What could be substituted?
Is the utility of the skirting only to keep the house warmer? Can it by omitted? Would the VB still be placed at the soil?
I've searched for more information on building the skirting. I followed everything from Nash's "Do-it-Yourself Homebuilding" except for the gaskets. I searched this site and only found http://www.countryplans.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1157417796/2 which is a very different style than Nash's. Any help would on building the skirts would be appreciated
Thanks, Mischa
Does the "Black poly VB at soil" just get laid on the ground? Does it need any fasteners? Should it be cut to fit around posts or is this not necessary?
I just laid my down and put some gravel on it so it wouldn't move. It doesn't have to be perfect.
How do the beams join at the corners? For example, do they each get cut at 45 degrees to form a mitered butt joint, do I remove the top 50% from one and the bottom 50% from the other at the corner and join with a lap joint?
I just butted them up to one another and nailed. My got covered anyway.
Kevin
See:
http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/AC-ACE-LPCZ-LCE.html
I used AC6 in pairs to attached beam to post. I cheated at the end posts and bend the flanges around and nail.
Once I had Lowes special order them. Another time I had a local lumber company order them.
I would add to be sure whatever Stronge-Tie product you chose has the required load capacity for your application.
I may not be following your question right , but on the VC plans I have the beams do not butt or joint at the corners , John has dbl. floor joist that go from one side to the other side , tieing the beams together. Those would sit on top of the beams and be attached with H1 hurricane ties and or H2.5's .
The AC4/6 seriers of post to beam connectors will be fine for that application, the # just tells you what size post it is made for , 4x4, 6x6 etc , beam size is some what ilrevalant as long as it flushs up on one side , better if it's flush on both sides then a AC connector can be easily applied properly.
PEG688, I'm using a different set of plans (1 ½ story 20' wide cottage) but it may be the same here and I'm just misreading them. Take a look at the following image, this is how the beams would met and they would be attached with hurricane clips, right? Another question, I found the h1 and h2.5 clips (http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/H.html#gallery2) but they look like they are used for securing rafters to plates and wouldn't really be useful in this application...
Thanks, M
Mish in the case you show , if that's the architect's intent , I'd use a hidden flange hanger,
Simpson (http://www.strongtie.com/graphics/products/large/194-2007.gif%20 )
Link:http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/hangeroptions/lgu_options.html
The H1 and H2.5 can be used to hold down / attach just about any two members crossing each other a a 90 deg. angle . Yes made for rafter to wall plate connection , but used for deck joist to deck beam , floor joist to top plate etc. They are to resist uplift , mostly from high wind , but they do the job where in the old days a few toe nails held things together.
John will , or some one with that plan, have to log into the thread to say for sure , but if you have floor joist 90 deg. to those beams that sit on top of the main floor supporting beams , I see not reason the beams would need to run the permeter of the building. If the joist can span beam to beam as single floor joist , a dbl joist on the end would tie it together or a addition beam parrell to the two outer beams to reduce the span of joist would be in order.
[highlight]John would be the one to clear it up I am not a engineer nor a architect[/highlight], just a ole country carpenter ;)
There isn't a beam on the end walls of the 1 - 1/2 story post and pier foundation. The joists sit on top of the side beams and there is a support post at the center of the gable ends that is notched for the end joist.
What PEG shows would work if someone needed beams on all four sides (maybe for a square house with a hip roof). You could also do all kinds of neat Japanese joints or bevel each beam at 45º and then strap the end and nail to the post with angle brackets.
I think I got it, please confirm the following image:
By God I believe he's got it!!!
Read with a English accent ;D
That's it Mis , now just add H1 and H 2.5 or A35's , any where a H1 won't go on and you got yerself a floor joist sysytem 8-) And AC6's at the post to beam connection . Etc , etc. etc.
So what computer program is that your using?? Is it carpenter proof ?? Like can a ole stupid carpenter who knows very lil about computers operate it?? Enquiring minds , well :-[ mind , want to know ?
Cool, thanks PEG.
It's sketch up: it's free and easy to learn. I recomend it highly.
.M