Incorporating engineered wood "I" beams into wall framing

Started by rwanders, December 30, 2007, 10:56:57 PM

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rwanders

Still in planning/drawing stage of a 24X34 1 1/2 story. I am trying to figure the best way to incorporate or mate 24' Wood I beams into my 2X6 side walls. It appears that I could set the beams on top of the framed wall and tie them directly to my 2X10 rafters (12/12 pitch). This seems to be the most common method. However, I would like to be able to set the beams INTO the framed wall and then set the rafters birdsmouth onto a set of top plates which I would fasten onto the top flange of the I beams. I would, of course, use a rim joist along the perimeter to tie all the I beams together as well as solid web blocking or "squash blocks" to transfer the structural load to the stud wall. This would result in 9' walls and allow me to gain another 12" headroom in the loft area and allow me to set my collar ties 12" lower also. My choices seem to be to (1) set a ledger (2X6 or 2X8) into the stud wall or (2) use additional 2X6 "cripples" under the I Beams (they have 3 1/2" flanges). Option 2 will require a lot of lumber and will present an insulation problem too. Option 1 may not provide enough support. Are their any other methods I have missed? Will this framing plan create an unstable "hinge joint"---it appears to me that it is similar to a balloon frame in that particular area though I otherwise plan to use the standard platform framing methods. Both options would provide ample bearing area per manufacturers specs. I also plan to add triangular plywood gussets (5/8 or 3/4 and 4' deep)) notched around the ridge board and nailed off to each rafter pair for additional roof stiffening----a 14' span of the building will be open and will thus not have the usual rafter ties/floor joists. I am hopeful that lower collar ties along with the gussets will provide enough structure to prevent roof sag or wall bowing.  Any advice gratefully received!
Rwanders lived in Southcentral Alaska since 1967
Now lives in St Augustine, Florida

glenn kangiser

For myself, I would prefer the semi-balloon framing to prevent the hinge point and use the 2x let in into the 2x6 studs.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

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rwsmith

Hello -

Have seen several of your posts about the cabin you built in Alaska. Also noticed that you are now living in St Augustine Fl. I live in the Saint Johns area and would enjoy chatting with you about your building experience. My wife and I are in the earlier stages of planning a one bedroom get away with a loft.

If you are willing to connect please let me know.

Thank you.

RWSmith