Sheetrock - Drywall DIY Tips and Costs

[Sassy]

When I repaired the bathroom ceiling, on the 12"x12" section that was stepped down from the ceiling I purchased a 12"x12" piece - can't even remember what it was called but IIRC, it had cardboard edges & mesh in the center - you mudded it on & then it required several layers of thin mud on the outside to make it seamless & look like the original.  That really speeded things up for me for doing the edges, then the rest was just the normal repair. 

[peternap]

So far I have to echo what Redover Farms said.

I have done a number of sheetrock jobs over the years and to be honest, it's not my favorite thing to do. It's also not my least favorite.

Don said get the right tools. I second that. Sheetrock tools aren't expensive and make the job a lot easier. EITHER RENT OR BUY A SHEETROCK JACK! It will take a full sheet and place it in position and hold it on the ceiling. I bought mine for 250.00 and it has served me well over the years.

Taping isn't hard, just boring.

Saving 4000.00 is a good thing if you have more time than money!

[glenn kangiser]

Be sure to get the wide knife for over the seams -- I usually start with a 6 inch  and finish later coats with a 12", and of course get the little metal edge pan to work from. 

[pioneergal]

Thanks to all for the tips and please keep posting them! I am reading all of them and taking notes.
Lord knows, we need all the help we can get!

[glenn kangiser]

Keeping your knives clean saves lots of work -- a piece of paper or cardboard on the edge of the knife scratches the wet coat making another thing that will need repair.  Wipe the edge with a crumpled paper - junk in the garbage etc to keep it clean.

Keep lumps out of the compound on your taping knife.

[glenn kangiser]

Use the wide thin knives that look like stove pipe metal for most of the finishing stuff.  Stiffer knives such as a 6 inch putty knife are only suitable for smaller stuff - screws - nails etc.  Usually one quick wipe one direction then another across like an x to clean up.  It will dry - shrink in the center - then you will come back later and do it again.  Don't worry about perfect the first time -- just fast and good.  Shrinkage will require at least 1 or 2 more coats before texture anyway but you don't want to deal with big lumps.

Texturing the walls is most forgiving.  Smooth walls require the most work and are pretty hard for all except pro's.

Cheap texture guns are available everywhere and work with a small compressor with a regulator pretty well.

[fishing_guy]

I have never had a crack with the mesh tape.  The pro's don't use it much I don't think as their machines use the paper easily -- split second for a joint.

That is just about right on the money Glenn.  The advantage of mesh is that it gets "buried" in the mud.  It can take variations in temperature a lot better.  Paper tape lays underneath the mud, and in most casts works very well.  But if your mud is a little dry, it will delaminate over time, especially in extreme conditions (like freeze/thaw cycles in a cabin setting.

The paper is easier to apply with the tools(we used to use a "banjo", not sure what the newest tech is).  It also is easier to get a good finish on.

Good knives, technique and patience are the key to getting a good finish.

[pioneergal]

DH and I have read all the tips and have given much thought to the idea of doing the job ourselves. Especially after we got a call yesterday from a friend who has done sheetrock in the past and he has offered to help us with our job.

Of coarse we all know that the road has been paved with good intentions of people wanting to help so we'll see what happens. No slur intended but I'm sure everyone on the board would have a story about promised help.

Reguardless, with help or without help we have come to the conclusion that it is something we can do ourselves. We will just be  S  L  O  W at the job !

[pioneergal]

After reading my post again I hope that I didn't come across as being over confident in our ability to do the sheetrock. Actually it's just the opposite.

It's just that after you guys cheered us on and your kindness to give some inside tips we  b e l i e v e that we can do the job with time on our side. When we balanced the books we had a lot of time  and a little bit of money.

Not complaining mind you it's just the way it is. This building process has been long and at times wearing on the emotions and finances but Mike was saying today that we are so blessed to be this far along and still have the house debt free.

So, it has been worth it!

We checked on the septic system and we should be able to use the conventional system at the cost of about $4000.00. So, after we finish the sheetrock and put in the septic system we hope to be very near to moving in to this long awaited dream.

[glenn kangiser]

Pioneergal, if you have faith the size of a mustard seed you can move sheetrock.

[desimulacra]

I think this is my second post and my knowledge of sheetrock is similar, but i did stay at a Holiday Inn Express. Wanted to pass along what I saw/heard on tv the other day. The program Holmes on Homes stated that when installing sheetrock to keep in mind that mold loves PAPER, esp. moist paper. So score one for the mesh. Of course if you are using paper coated sheetrock I guess it matters little. They also said that the premix compound most of us (or me at least) tend to use is very susceptible to mold, while the site-mixed isn't(guess I'm going to all site-mixed). He also stated that the pre-mix is only recommended for the final/finish coat ( I think due to it being less strong  ) and that if you use it generally it takes more finish time. I think I agree with the site-mixed taking less time to finish as the last job I did was my home office in the shop. I used site-mixed for the first time and the job went MUCH faster, but will say at the time I put it down to having learned more from previous jobs.
Thanks guys for all the hints. Feel free to correct what I have stated if wrong, would not want someone to get bad info.

Mark

[glenn kangiser]

Thanks for the info, Mark. 

I don't do a lot of it but am OK at it.  I haven't site mixed since around 1964 but didn't do much after that.  It was on a remodel working for my great uncle.  He was quite a craftsman.

[CREATIVE1]

I am redoing my house in Florida and decided to use 1/2 inch plywood on the interior perimeter walls to help stiffen up the structure.  We screwed them in.  Costs about the same as drywall.  The next door neighbor mudded over his old paneling and it looks great after a number of years, so we'll do the same.  We're patching the old drywall on the other walls.

My son does lots of remodels and uses plywood all the time.  Seems to all be holding up well.  He uses stucco sometimes and it looks like plaster the way he textures it.  Also, the new paperless drywall is awesome.

[fishing_guy]

We used to site mix our Durabond 90(used for the filler coat), otherwise we used a lot of premis.  This was back in the 1970's though.

Since then, I've remodeled the basement, drywalled the neighbor's garage and workshop, and most recently did a finish coat on my brother-in-law's garage.  I also did some major patching in the house my daughter just bought.

I have had the best luck with LaFarge joint compound.  Just works for me.  But for sure your milage WILL vary.  The pre-mix has the benefit of being smooth and the right consistancy.  Just remember not to cheap out and put the leftovers back in the pail.  They will show up as streaks, and in the worst possible spot. (A corralary of Murphy's law I presume).

Never had any more of a problem with mold in any of my jobs.

[Okie_Bob]

Lots of good tips but, the best one is to hire it done if at all possible. One of the worst jobs you will encounter building your house IMHO. I'm not sure where you are located but the price you were quoted is the same price I paid here in central Tx and felt it was not excessive and the guys did a great job.
If you want to tackle the job yourself, I highly recommend you rent a lift from your local rental store, Home Depot has them too. You can very easily lift a full 4 x 8 or 4 x 12 sheet to the ceiling or even high up on side walls, with one hand tied behind your back! Truly a great took and one I would not attempt to do without. Very inexpensive and if you are working alone, indispensable. I don't know how else one man could hang a ceiling without it. I'm probably wrong but, believe it was like $35 per week??
Sub it out is my first choice, I hate sheetrock!
Okie Bob

[glenn kangiser]

You could calculate out the cost of the materials, tools you would buy etc. -- deduct it from the quote and see if you want to do it for that amount of money -- that would be the only savings. 

Whatever amount of time they quote you -- multiply by 3 or 4 to get how long it would take you -- maybe more.  See how much per hour you are saving.  Maybe it is cheaper to pay the pro and work at what you know to pay them.

[NM_Shooter]

Run away from any large scale sheetrock job.

I have done a bit of it, and I hate every second.  I am currently finishing up a bathroom remodel and had to make some wall and ceiling
"edits"   

If you are dead set on having the whole house 'rocked, then find a way to sell a kidney and just have them do it.  The amount of time iwould take for you to get this to look acceptable would be substantial.  You will be old, grey, and bitter by the time you get done.  This is honestly one part that you should let the pros do it.  They will be in and out in a week and you can prime and paint and get on with your life.

Don't try and do a smooth wall finish if you do it yourself.  Use texture.

Also consider doing a faux paint finish.  French brush or multi-color techniques can cover really, really bad sheetrock work (ask me how I know).

It was posted here before, but get the right tools.  The corner mud tools are a Godsend.

BTW.. if you have pros do it, check your wiring beforehand, and check it after.  They get sloppy sometimes with roto-zips and screw up electrical boxes and security wiring.  Make sure that your contract includes a mitigation clause for any electrical damage.