Stucco Related Remodel Question

MountainDon · February 12, 2012, 06:01:34 PM

So here's all re-framed...

On the right side and above the back window you can see how the drywall paper ripped when I removed the old wood strip paneling. Some adhesives had been used. Mu original intent had been to remove the old drywall. However, I decided it was more expedient to simply fill in the new framing with matching thickness drywall and then sheet over the entire wall. I had to buy some more drywall but it was quicker and less messy. Also had to put an extender on the one receptacle on that wall.

With the roughed in drywall filler pieces in place...

Right now I'm waiting for the joint compund to set; first application.

firefox · February 12, 2012, 07:14:23 PM

Starting to shape up very nicely MD.
Bruce

February 13, 2012, 08:57:07 PM

Completed, painted, for this weekend, and pretty much on schedule

Now the exterior and that will take longer, then the interior trim once the exterior is done.

Redoverfarm · February 13, 2012, 10:48:25 PM

Nice work Don.

MountainDon · February 15, 2012, 10:39:15 AM

Thanks.

And the room is noticeably warmer now.

February 15, 2012, 07:41:39 PM

Just for the record I have come to the conclusion that the best way to do the exterior task of adding rigid foam insulation and changing to a lap siding is going to be to remove the stucco from this section at least. This stucco stops at the main wall with a formed metal piece, something like a corner.... but I don't know the real name.

It is very difficult trying to locate the wall studs through the depth of stucco. Studs are needed to screw the furring to. So that is the next step. Good thing I'm not in a rush now.

MountainDon · February 26, 2012, 05:26:54 PM

Two walls down to the original building felt.

MountainDon · February 29, 2012, 03:39:53 PM

I just finished removing all the stucco from the final (south) wall. And I discovered something interesting. I started on the north facing wall, then did the eadt wall and finally the south facing wall. The south face was the easiest to remove. The air hammer knocked it apart and off the chicken wire much easier.

I think it may have something yo do with sun exposure. But I wonder if it is from the 21 years of continued exposure or because the original application dried out too quick, got water dry before it properly cured? Anyhow the south wall came off much more readily.

Before I started the removal I wondered if the lower edge, the part that overlaps the poured monolith slab was applied to the concrete slab or if there was paper and chicken wire. (I was not around the week the stucco was applied). Now I know; paper and chicken wire extend down over the slab edge. So that is being removed as once the nails up in the framing area are removed there is nothing holding the lower cut off edge to the foundation.

Next is to shovel the remaining debris into the trailer and make a run to the landfill.

NM_Shooter · February 29, 2012, 03:48:31 PM

I wonder if the south wall had more extreme freeze / thaw cycles? I should go out and look at my house walls and see where the cracks are.

February 29, 2012, 06:09:17 PM

Hmmm, I went out and looked at the remaining N, E and S walls. Nothing facing west. I know, odd house.

Nah, the west walls are all brick or garage door.

I can't say with certainty that there are any more cracks in the stucco on the south wall than the others. But maybe the north end has slightly fewer. maybe

About 2400 lbs of concrete according to the scale at the landfill. Plus a 100 lbs I tossed in the trash bin; good thing the trucks use a hydraulic lift.

MountainDon · March 17, 2012, 11:18:11 PM

I spent most of the day working on this project. Part of yesterday too after we returned from the cabin. I got the simple wall (, south wall, no windows or door) covered fully in 1 1/2" XPS and all but one 17" strip covered in the final layer of 1/2" polyisocyanurate with foil facing. Then I got a large portion of the north wall completed. One window, one door, extend 3 electrical boxes. I also spent some time mapping the studs on paper so I could be certain to find them easily once the foam was applied. Stud finder doesn't work too well on 2" thick foam, even in deepscan mode.

I used these plastic washers to secure the foam sheets to the wall sheathing. They are sold by many places with the screws already inserted. I found one place that sold them bare, no screws and opted for them as I wanted 2 lengths of screws for the different thicknesses. They also sold boxes of 500 rather than only 1000. They are 2" diameter. I could have used all the same screws, but, I was interested in the reduced quantity and price. I got screws at a local screw and bolt specialist. The washers are rated to hold the foam panels in up to 90 mph winds when installed according to directions. Made from a modified polymer plastic they compress the foam slightly to be flush or slightly dished below the surface. They have ribs to prevent spinning as they are cinched down.

I used a few to hold the 1 1/2" panels flat and then did the suggested pattern with the final layer. Final layer screws are into the studs, for the most part. It is probably overkill to use these as furring strips will be installed over each stud as well. Those will be secured with structural graded #10 screws that will penetrate the studs 1 full 1 1/2". But this way I can feel comfortable if I don't get it all buttoned up soon.

One more shot, this of a section of the south wall. It appears we have a chromed house.

More pictures later if I can get the charger, or battery, to cooperate.

MountainDon · March 27, 2012, 11:50:48 AM

Well, I have a working camera again.

It is hard to take a good photo of a "chrome" house. It must be hard on the neighbor's eyes when the sun hits it all day.

I did the windows "outie style". No pictures of the work on them. 1x furring strips are almost all done.

The foam runs down to the ground with an aluminum angle under them. The foam laps over the concrete slab from three to five inches. The bottom perimeter has tan vinyl flashing material glued to the foil faced foam as a sort of a fake foundation. Furring 1x4 and 1x6 at the corners are all attached to the studs with 5 inch #`0 structural rated screws every 12 inches. probably overkill on the spacing. They have a T-25 drive socket; much nice driving that a Philips head. No slippage and no need to keep pushing hard as the screw is driven in. All the foam seams were caulked and taped.

Mapping the stud positions on two of the walls was a chore because of all the windows. Wall stud spacing was basically 16" OC but disturbed by the cutouts. Then above the 8 foot height the trusses were at 24" centers. Plus the re-frame to make the windows smaller caused some discontinuity in the normal positioning of the studs. Anyhow I dug out old photos of the original construction. That helped understand what was under the OSB skin. I measured and labeled distances on large prints to help with finding the studs once all the foam was applied. The south wall w/o any perforations was easy.

MountainDon · March 27, 2012, 01:22:27 PM

MountainDon · March 27, 2012, 01:39:18 PM

1x6's around windows provide for mounting the 5/4 x 4" wide trim and leaves room to nail the siding in place. Ditto at the corners.

It took 10 sheets of 1 1/2" XPS and eleven of 1/2" polyiso. Why the difference? Well one 1/2" sheet got caught by the wind and snapped in an irregular manner; caused some waste. Plus I tried for fewer pieces of the 1/2 used in the final layer.

March 31, 2012, 08:38:41 PM

At the end of today....

I cut most of the trim to fit, primed all the cuts and installed enough of it to get started with the lap siding on the east wall. Took some time building the trim blocks for around the electrical receptacle box.

8 inch siding with 6 3/4 reveal.

MountainDon · April 02, 2012, 05:28:59 PM

2 walls done, one to go. The final wall should go quickly as there are no doors or windows. Todays wall took longer than it seemed it should. All those little pieces around the door took as long as the longer pieces above the window and door. Partly because I primed every cut end as I went along. I need to place the final strip on the upper end of the door/window wall. Also have to do the gable end with vertical board and batten.

MountainDon · May 12, 2012, 03:54:16 PM

Well, it's been a while... I've been slowly doing bits and pieces to finish this. Today was a good day, I got some painting done. Did all the edges where trim meets siding and did all the laps with the first coat of finish color.

One of the delaying items was color selection. Those little 8 oz. jars of samples are very handy. I did 3 of them. Then found an old color we used on something before and tried it. Guess what one we used. yep, the one that was sitting under our noses all along and was right in the ball park along with our first gut feeling about what color to select.

Pictures when it's done.