Hi all thought I'd share a few tricks of the trade with ya .
I stand all my door casing ,generally 7' stock , up and sort it by color and grain , putting like and kind together, culling out the ones that have chips , cracks , poor stain into another bunch to be used for short base peices or door heads if the bad spot is on a end .
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/rudy15feb1.jpg)
This way I can get a set of matching grain / color for each door . BTW the photo didn't quite show the color matching or grain part , they are sorted small left bunch bad pieces , darker stain next , light stain third , wild mixed grain on right.
I sort of see what I have the most of and put the lesser amount inside closets or in corners that a open door will cover most of the time . This is a generallity but it does work.
like the deck details if like and kind are together less wildness shows , it more of that flow thing I try to get going.
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/feb154.jpg)
Nice miter clean and crisp. Also note the the reveal of both the door to jamb and the door jamb to casing , clean and even.
On the bench in the right hand corner are two shims made of alu. bar stock 1/8 thick I use those to space things doors , etc . Works well for Euro style cabs as well . 1/8" gaps are pretty common on those.
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/feb155.jpg%20)
I wrap my level ends and just about anything else that is metal with blue tape , it cuts down on alu. marks , and metal scratching stuff either wood as in the case of the saw or door knobs when running the screws into the mounting holes.
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/feb151.jpg)
I also tape the window sills , these are sill and apron only S/R wrap for the three other sides . This #1 lets you see the lines on this darker stain and cuts down on chipping of the wood , fine blade , saw set on finest cut possible , and the saw shoe from scrathing the soft , Hemlock , wood .
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/feb152.jpg)
As you see I use a couple of shims with one pin nail to hold it , to hold the sill , I sqr. out from the window and eye ball the angle the S/R is aways on and adjust my line for that angle , the scribes get set for the waste cut for the sill ears .
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/feb153.jpg)
If all goes well , nice tight fit and no S/R finish ripped off by the sill being tipped into place .
I also use staples from my SKS senco staple gun ,,,,shot with the grain,,,, to attach the sill , that little staple / rectangluar hole just puddies better than a round nail hole , IMO .
Pocket doors: I generally screw the inside , less visible side , head and side on and no nails into the side or head from the casing I just nail the casing into the pocket door jamb deal not into the removable pieces ,so if the door needs to be removed they can be removed to get to the track and wheels .
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Rudy15Feb3.jpg)
Note the side piece is cut up into the track area just looks better/ cleaner that way.
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Rudy15Feb2.jpg)
Misc tools , puddy soft color puddy in little plastic tubs , I mix different colors to match the color of stain , ussualy two mixes per job play with the colors to get it close and try to shoot your nails into that color grain when possible .
The hand carry is misc screws for stuff and the gray tool box carries finish gun nails and the puddy, sand paper etc .
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/feb157.jpg)
Enough for now we'll see how it settles with ya all ;) Might be TMI ::)
Good luck hope it helps some one , PEG
Great looking work, Peg! Thanks for sharing, and I'd like to see more anytime!
That is a bunch of real great tips and inside information, PEG. Thanks for showing us how the pro's do it. :)
Peg, you could work on my house anytime.
Wow...look at PEG posting like a pro too!
Nice attention to detail in your work PEG.
Peg; You are way cooler then Bob Villia. Bob don't even qualify to hold your drill chuck.
Great set of pics and instructions.
Thanks for sharing.
Great info...when does the book come out???? ;)
Great tips PEG, I don't think I've heard those pocket door suggestions before but they make a lot of sense.
Thanks all , Book?? :-[ Nah jee I'm to shy for that. You think some one would pay me to write this stuff :-[
Well a few additional thoughts.
Coping inside corners , cut a 45° miter then follow the profile it leaves , back cut it a few ° as well with a coping saw .
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/feb175.jpg)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/feb177.jpg%20)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/feb176.jpg)
They stay tight , inside miters on 22 1/2 ° angle bays need to be both mitered the bummer is when you nail them they tend to open up a bit as the nail is set :'(
I forgot to mention I glue all my miters and on small pieces of base I butter up the back with glue as well so the piece is glued to the dry wall :)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/feb174.jpg%20)
Projecting Drywall : at door or window jambs , show it who's in charge cut it , bash it out of the way so the casing lays flat on the jamb stock, cut it at a angle then hit it :) It will crumb out of your way. Casing will then lay flat.
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/feb173.jpg)
And the Bob Villea thing I know was a compliment but poor Bob would be lost without Norm , and now Riley or who ever his real carpenter is right now . Bob is pretty much a putz when ever they give him a tool to use.
I take any of you all as a helper before old Bob he thinks he knows how , which makes him some what of a problem. Good TV shows , sort of , if they could get Bob to shut up. Ah sorry Bob if your lurking ;)
Good luck , PEG
Great ideas, tips and pics Peg! Thanks for sharing.
Just wish you had shared the pocket door trick sooner. I finally got the carpet installed in my place and was not present when they laid it. So, they didn't take the pocket doors down prior to laying the carpet and as you might guess, I couldn't get the doors to slide open. Finally forced them open but, because of the carpet, the doors were pushed-forced up into the track so I could not remove them. Had I known in advance about your trick of screwing the trim on the back side, I could have removed it and gotten access to the door.
I got the bright idea that I could run my jig saw along the floor cutting off about an inch from the bottom of the door. Well, it worked and I can now get the door off the track but, as I'm sure you have guessed, it looks terrible! So, now I need to replace the doors. Your little trick would have saved me a lot of frustration, not to count the money!
Thanks PEG.
Okie Bob
Sorry Bob :( One thing you can count on is the one pocket door in 20 that gets hung [highlight]without the tip being used[/highlight] is the one that will need to be removed to be cut down. Murphy's law ;D
I try to keep Mr. Murphy off my job sites ;) He sneaks in once in a while >:(
Ussually when I'm rushing or just plain tired :'(
PEG
Thanks for the great tutorial PEG. :D Very well done! I'm going to add this thread to the main page links.
Thanks John :) If you don't mind I'll just keep adding to it (or should I do it some other way once you move it ?), as I think of things or do things, the pictures really help show what I'd like to say much more betta :)
On reveals like this window with S/R wrap , there is a sub wrap, generally 5/8 "or 3/4" plywood that goes on before the S/R setting a even reveal for the S/Rocker to put the board on. This sub wrap is shimmed for equal reveal once the S/R is applied .
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/feb152.jpg)
Althought this photo looks like the left is not the same as the right , it's the angle of the camera, they are very close , if the S/R was just nailed to the framing it would be un equal / wandering up the sides.
On different styles of window , the one shown is a casement , the reveal might differ as to it's width , compared to a fix window or single hung , but the reveal line on each window itself should match all around .
We can leave it right here and you and others can add to it. I just added a link on the main homepage (http://www.countryplans.com/).
The tip on cutting the 45 on molding etc. and following the profile is great PEG. Really beats trying to do it with a scriber. Great information. Great presentation.
Heres a bit more , bay windows , step ups , end returns , caulking and more.
The secert corner tool,
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/feb206.jpg) WD -40 spray can top ;D
whats in the other bucket, scraps of 1/8 , 1/4 , 3/8 , 1/2 , 5/8, 3/4 plywood and lots of plastic lam scraps , ripped to about 1 1/4 wide 3 to 4 " long . I use those to shim the sills , vary the # and width to get the window reveal the same .
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/feb207.jpg)
Cut and fit all 3 sills , in this case, then pick a happy spot that all 3 will look good at , if your framer , me in this case did his job right and thought about it when the windows where set , the trim job is easier.
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/feb2013.jpg)
Nice clean line / level ,etc.
Step ups are easy no brainer just cut the base down at the bottom and keep going.
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/feb2017.jpg)
Step downs are the killer , ya got to plan on those or they bite ya . None on this job step downs that is .
caulking the base top , window sills and gaps at door casing . there will be some gaps , D/W is not very flat corners get built up in the mudding process. On this job pre stained trim greenish walls , clear caulk works best , this stuff goes on white / drys clear, and is paintable . The clear picks up both the wall and wood color and softness the shadow line . On paintgrade white caulk is as good as any the painter will just paint it .
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/feb2014.jpg)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/feb2015.jpg)
Apron returns simply cut two 45° angle one on the apron end and one on a scrap piece of casing then make a 90° cut so ya just get the little return , nail the apron on under the sill , add glue to the little return and push it into place use a little block to drive it tight .
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/feb2012.jpg%20)
Crap heres the "more "part, :( >:(!!!
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/feb209.jpg%20)
So the little truth is out we all screw up even us pro's :-[
Ok don't panic and slam the piece down on the floor and really ruin it . Stay calm , ya right I never should have forced it that much ya big dummy, >:(
Ok glue is our friend , put a little , yes a little not to much glue in the split use a file , filing down only while holding the split together to relieve that area [highlight]ya just spit "dummy"[/highlight] . then wiggle the chip back into place ,[highlight] careful ya all thumbs nit wit [/highlight].
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/feb2010.jpg)
Ok now a little tap with a block and a bit o color puddy , and well it 's going to be ok :)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/feb2011.jpg)
It was the last sill , believe it or not , wasn't rushing overly ::), that big lump of texture got me >:(
Plus the fact I wanted it to go , and not have to file it again. Well that saved me some time , :(
That's why I get the big bucks ;)
Good luck , PEG
Thanks PEG --nice job - good info ----- I just noticed you chew yourself out when you mess up, the same as me. :)
I guess we both know we should know better. :-/ but - nice save. :)
Have you ever used these PEG - looks like a useful tool. They can apparently be slipped over edges also.
Steel Pinch Dogs from Hardwicks (http://www.ehardwicks.com/product_line/pros/CSO-89.htm)
(http://www.ehardwicks.com/images/WebProducts/Partials/CSO-89.jpg)(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/pinchdogs4.jpg)
QuoteHave you ever used these PEG - looks like a useful tool. They can apparently be slipped over edges also.
Steel Pinch Dogs from Hardwicks (http://www.ehardwicks.com/product_line/pros/CSO-89.htm)
(http://www.ehardwicks.com/images/WebProducts/Partials/CSO-89.jpg)(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/pinchdogs4.jpg)
I've seen-um but never used-um , I like a pony pipe clamp, and I have about 15 of them ,and various lenghts of pipe . I'd just not think you'd get the right pressure , on the right spot , with the pinch dogs .
They could come in handy in a pinch though ;)
I really need to go to Hardwicks store one day when I'm in Seattle, I've hear it's a tool heaven :)
I once had a Doberman Pinscher - probably not a pinch dog though. I wouldn't pinch her - she'd bite. Shut up, Glenn. :-/
Bumped up for Okie bob ;)
Alas buryed on page 20 something :'(, but like the phoenix it has risen ;D
Way to go, PEG. I see you resurrected one of my stupid comments too. Probably why this one made it to page 20. :-/
Well ya never know what'll show up , and Glenn you have good to great odds on a , ah :-/ :-? Oh never mind ;D
Hey Glenn and Peg, I had a little extra time this morning and was re-reading some old posts and stumbled on this one.
Was thinking it would be nice if Peg would add more to this with tips and ideas for trim, cabinets, etc?????
PLEASE!!!
Ok, I'm begging.
May have asked this before but, need to ask again. Peg, if cost was not that much an objective, what power tools would you really need to build cabinets and do trim work? I really want a good table saw and mitre saw that cuts up to 12 inchs..you know, the one that pushes as well as just cuts straight down? I think I really need both and need some help here justifying the expense!!! (know what I mean?) Home Depot has a real heavy cast iron base table saw that is around $600 and a DeWalt compound mitre saw for around $600 as well. Obviously, I won't be building enough cabinets to justify the cost of these tools but, the idea is I can use them when I retire in a couple of years doing odd jobs and remodle jobs for other people. What do you think?
Okie Bob
NICE WORK! I know I'm screaming again.
Got any tricks for staining end grain?
QuoteHey Glenn and Peg, I had a little extra time this morning and was re-reading some old posts and stumbled on this one.
Was thinking it would be nice if Peg would add more to this with tips and ideas for trim, cabinets, etc?????
PLEASE!!!
Ok, I'm begging.
May have asked this before but, need to ask again. Peg, if cost was not that much an objective, what power tools would you really need to build cabinets and do trim work? I really want a good table saw and mitre saw that cuts up to 12 inchs..you know, the one that pushes as well as just cuts straight down? I think I really need both and need some help here justifying the expense!!! (know what I mean?) Home Depot has a real heavy cast iron base table saw that is around $600 and a DeWalt compound mitre saw for around $600 as well. Obviously, I won't be building enough cabinets to justify the cost of these tools but, the idea is I can use them when I retire in a couple of years doing odd jobs and remodle jobs for other people. What do you think?
Okie Bob
#1: I just put about 45 minutes into a post and hit the wrong button and lost it >:( I'll see if I can find a thread from another forum to bump you over to . Stinkin lap top ! Well it was my fault I hit the wrong thing !!! $#@% :-[
#2: Old dog ::
On end grain you can try a sanding sealer it will reduce the stain penatration some what. Or if it's possible cut a return on the end , like on a window apron ,
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/feb2012.jpg?t=1165468052%20)
Heres that thread ;;
http://www.woodenboatvb.com/vbulletin/upload/showthread.php?t=6936&highlight=Planing+figured+wood
It's a long one , old thread some of the photos are gone , as I must have "cleaned up" my photo bucket account , but theres still lots of tool / jig / explaining how I do some things in the shop. And other opinions as well.
Hope it helps , G/L PEG
Did you try your forward or back button on your browser, PEG -- many times I have found my typing on the next or previous page. :(
Ya I tryed the back button it was gone :-[ :'( :'( :'( :'(
I hate it when that happens. >:(
QuoteI hate it when that happens. >:(
I drug across one of those ads above and the finger musta been to heavy , I hear ya >:( A lot of work , POOF gone !
....like a fart in a fan factory..... :(
I was losing work last week when the power keep resetting. Not that I don't do the same thing PEG does - click somewhere in the ethers and POOF! (the fan whisks it away).
I have to remember to follow my own advice. "Write awhile but post before you're done, then modify and save, read, modify and save again, repeat...
Got to get it off your desktop and onto the site. The site is more stable than any of our computers - especially the ones run by the [highlight]HUMANS[/highlight]. :)
I do that quite often too, John. Now if only that fan was on. :-/
How about a bigger window unit ,
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/May1st16.jpg)
Details
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/May28th.jpg)
It all fit in or on the truck ,
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/June2nd.jpg)
Silent helpers hold the sill, ;D ;D Notice the rabbit so I don't have to plane the whole 1" thick stock to final fit against the windows, this is the bottom of the sill , all layout is on the back side , so when I cut it out the jig saw was riding on the under side of the sill , gives a cleaner cut on the top of the sill and no worries about the saw shoe scracthing the top either so a win , win.
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/June2nd7.jpg)
Hidden screws to attach sill to sub sill.
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/June2nd11.jpg)
Don't look out the window to long ;D
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/June2nd5.jpg)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/June2nd9.jpg)
Lower surrounds set,
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/June2nd12.jpg)
Upper surrounds set,
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/June2nd14.jpg)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/June2nd15.jpg)
More details , kerfed to relieve stress / stop cupping / twisting .
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/June2nd16.jpg)
Ready for paint , the sill and apron will be "bright" finished (natural/ clear finish ) they are both VG Fir , 18' - 1" long :o
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/June2nd18.jpg)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/June2nd19.jpg)
Accually I have to plug the holes in the center mullion cover with 3/8" plugs , I screwed that one on as it gave me more "control " over setting it / pulling it up tight to the surround. So it's not really ready to paint , but it's close ;)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/June2nd20.jpg)
Beauty, PEG. Was that new construction or a remodel? A great job as always.
Thanks , Remodel , same place that last vanity went , the poplar / paint grade one.
Go some lighting trim to do , another vanity made like a old table, and a bench / bookshelf reading area they want me to do as well . All those will be stain grade / furinture grade pieces , not sure what woods we'll be using at this point , it will be some thing nice, Cherry or Rift cut /or quarter sawn White Oak 8-)
I assume your silent helpers above were to hold the sill in place for layout, marking and or scribing the exact size of the mullions so you could get a good fit? :-?
Ya theres more photos I'll add to it later , I'm beat and it's way past my bed time ;D
I'd hate to see you without your beauty sleep. So - take off, hoser. :)
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/2/2a/Bob_and_Doug.jpg/250px-Bob_and_Doug.jpg)
Couple of more shots to flesh out the way it should be done ;D
Lazer for line up , called a lazer jamb , pretty cool tool 8-)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/June2nd13.jpg)
The stuff on top of the truck I talked about earlier
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/June2nd1.jpg)
Our back yard :o glad the grass is burning up , less mowing ;D
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/June2nd2.jpg)
Protect that nice Rift/ qrt sawn white oak floor ,
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/June2nd3.jpg)
The layout Glenn was asking about , all done at the shop off the storey pole I made , verifed at site BEFORE cutting ;D
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/June2nd8.jpg)
Another hidden screw placed under the window surround side pieces 8-)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/June2nd10.jpg)
Will anyone "see" there are no nail holes , no MTL not , but they'll "see" that it looks really nice , for some reason ;)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/June2nd10.jpg)
Another lazer shot ,
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/June2nd13-1.jpg)
At least I think it's a different shot , gotta check the photo #
Thanks PEG -- you better go to sleep now --- your eyelids are getting heavy --- :o SLEEP, sleep, sleep ::)
Seriously, PEG, you're not old enough to stay up this late. ;D
Quote
Seriously, PEG, you're not old enough to stay up this late. ;D
No kidding :o
More window details ,
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/July30StienDerosa6.jpg)
Before the mullion covers ,
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/July30StienDerosa2.jpg)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/July30StienDerosa4.jpg)
1x5 head pieces, with a 1/2 x1 1/4 "screen mold " attached to the head piece.
Sides are 1x3 ( which I think should be 1x4 but eh it ain't my design or house) .
Sills are 5/4 x 6 or so .
Apron is 1x4.
All MDF (except the sceen molding) paint grade.
The same technics where used to set the surrounds and sills .
Looks great, as usual, PEG... and cool that you can remember the proper names for all those parts too. Much better than I can do. :)
QuoteLooks great, as usual, PEG... and cool that you can remember the proper names for all those parts too. Much better than I can do. :)
Thanks , if it where a diesel engine our roles would be reversed ;)
Beautiful craftsmanship PEG. Thanks for showing and detailing your work.
Thanks TBA .
The client doesn't like them , even thought I drew her a stetch / drawing. So I'll be throwing those out and making new ones :-[ :'(
She thinks they are to " victorian" ::)
The flip side is my boss , when he told me said "They don't look like her picture!" I said , "PICTURE, you had a PICTURE??" Yes , appererently he did but didn't share it with me >:( ::)
Oh well it all pays the same ::)
I guess she has a totally different idea of what looks good... you did a wonderful job, PEG! At least you get paid to change it... whatever the customer wants - as long as they pay for it! ;)
Oh, she made it clear that the work was very nice , no complaint about the workmanship 8-), it was about the style /look.
Sort of that knife edge a guy walks , every time you make something , a little of the maker is laid out to judgement . And the verdict can be , ah , hard on a guy.
So ya do yer best to interpet what the client wants , some times even when they don't really know ::)
Like the Metabox thread what works well for one person can be a total bummer to the next.
Beauty , they say ::) , is in the eye of the beholder!
"Fnding " that beauty for some one else , priceless!
It would have really helped if the boss clued you in about the picture. Still nice work. :)
Another mile stone , 5100 plus views , 52 posts.
Here's a few more pocket door photo's and installation tips . This is a good place to add them as this "sticky" thread is easy to find and getting "another "sticky is hard , Glenn likes to keep the board tidy , which I total understand .
Now these photo's where NOT taken with a thread in mind so next time I hang a pocket door frame I'll take some more "purposeful" photos to add as well.
Here's the steel studs and lower attaching hardware I screw them down they say use nails , but nails loosen and back out easier then screws . I also screw down some 3/4" x 1 1/2" cleats between the stud , it give me something to nail my base to later on and insure no dips or waves will happen in the dry wall.
Note the oblong holes in the steel stud edge , you'll be using those to attach your jamb pieces later on.
(//i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/April192007Derosa12.jpg)
This photo shows some 1x4 added to the trimmer stud , we didn't frame this house , we just assembled it , it was a "kit" house so the framers in Canada who framed it had the RO size screwed up . I'm glad I caught it this point or I'd have fought it when I hung the door.
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/April192007Derosa11.jpg)
Thanks for the update of helpful information, PEG.
The search function is so much better on this forum that the information should be easy to find here.
AHHHHHHHHHHHHGGGAHHHHHHHHHH I just wrote a long post about pocket doors and the damned forum timed out on me d* d* d*
1500 series jamb kit ,
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Jan112008.jpg)
The wood parts are labeled for door size and cut spots ,
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Jan1120082.jpg)
Head jamb need cut 1 3/8" shorter than the wood parts ,
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Jan1120081.jpg)
I screw the metal stubs to the head jamb , pre-bore so the wood does not split,
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Jan1120085.jpg)
Plumb the stud , and square across the wall ,
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Jan1120084.jpg)
The head piece goes up first using the slotted holes to help hold it up , level it across , shim where required , I do run two screw up into the header about centered in the header piece remove a couple of the short screw holding the track to the header , put in loner screw in those holes ,
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Jan1120088.jpg)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Jan1120089.jpg)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Jan11200810.jpg)
The wheels on this brand are good the sizes may vary from manf. to manf. so check that out as well ,
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Jan11200812.jpg)
The type of lockset / handle that goes in a regular door bore ,
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Jan11200813.jpg)
The studs do not have to line up with the normal wall lay out ,
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Jan11200814.jpg)
As you can see the crew framed the RO's 1 1/2" to tall , better that than to short I guess >:(
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Jan1120088.jpg)
Whoa --- emergency --- a time out.
Did you manage to highlight it all, copy it and save it to re-paste it in case it wasn't there when you refreshed?
Thanks for the hard work, PEG. :)
Quote from: glenn kangiser on January 11, 2008, 11:22:30 PM
Whoa --- emergency --- a time out.
Did you manage to highlight it all, copy it and save it to re-paste it in case it wasn't there when you refreshed?
Thank for the hard work, PEG. :)
No it was gone , I should know better but think "I'll get this done in five minutes , no problem!" AAAAAAAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!! d*
hmm Bummer
How about ways to spice up a old , or new entry door.
This one had relights on both sides so I incorporated a Cedar trim detail that will be stained or painted to match the Mahogany door. We did price out Khaya (African Mahogany) for this job but it was twice as much for materials.
New windows where installed to replace old worn out vinyl ones.
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Jan82008.jpg)
After then new windows where installed we used small Makita skil type saw with a jig that rode the window flange to cut the siding back 2 1/2" for the new brick molding / exterior casing.
I made a new head , sides, mullion covers ( the space between two window or a door and a window is commonly called a mullion) , the raised panels , and plinth blocks in my shop. I was lucky and found some very nice TK Cedar , that was almost clear :)
As you may have noticed they did not even paper this house , no felt , no Typar , no nuttin :o
I Typar and Grace Vycored what could be done, this place has wide eaves , we did pull all the siding off the south wall and redid , or I guess did the Typar , vycor thing , also added some flashing where required.
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Jan1620084.jpg)
I made the raised panels all the same but I figured in a added 1/2" to the height , that way I could cut off the 1/2" after I had raised the panel on the table saw , this way after the sides and rail over the panel where applied the reveal ( space from the casing edge to the raised portion of the panel ) would be equal as a finished product. Note the panel is not rabbited into the plinth block , it is flashed with a drip edge metal.
The door had this double raised panel detail which I matched ,
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Jan1620085.jpg)
There's a glue joint in that last photo , can you see it?? :)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Jan1620087.jpg)
This one shows the Dbl raised pnl on the door,
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Jan1620089.jpg)
That little nail is all that holds the panel , it can swell and move as it wants behind the rabbits that trap it in place . Wood panels need room to move with MC changes.
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Jan1620083.jpg)
Pretty simple stuff , makes a nice entry door just a little better I think.
Fancy, PEG. Nice job. Thanks for the details on how it is done. :)
Thanks Glenn , no chainsaw work but it'll do I think! ;)
I can give you tips on chainsaw use if you need them. :)
Really nice, PEG, what color are you going to stain the panels you built? Post more pix when that's done :)
Very nice. Love the raised panel you fabricated.
Quote from: Sassy on January 16, 2008, 11:24:11 PM
Really nice, PEG, what color are you going to stain the panels you built? Post more pix when that's done :)
Thanks Sassy I will be long gone before the thing gets stained I think. The homeowners doing it herself , the big major down side was last week her pilot husband came home early , he got what he thought was the flu on his far east flight route. Well it wasn't flu but a brain tumor the size of a small orange , he was flown to Harbor view and had surgery on Monday , he did come home from the hospital today , talk about treatum and streetum :o
So I think that finish may be a low priority item , then again maybe I'll be tasked with doing it ??? If it goes that way I'll snap a photo of it. :)
Where do you get all your patience to do such fine work?
Sad about the husband... you just never know
Question on the pocket doors. I have built and hung sliding doors for barn stalls. Is this similar in concept but with the making of hollow wall for pocket in order for the door to hide? the biggest obstacle for me may be the trim out.
That's the concept... the door hides in the hollow wall, runs on a metal track with two roller units. The trimming is really no harder than trimming a swinging door. You hang the door on the track and when everything is working fine the finish board that the door closes against (in closed position) is installed. Then the casing trim goes on and it's done.
I haven't done one in about 15 years but back then the builder I worked for had a couple pockets in every home. I hope my memory serves me well enough.
Thanks! I'm learning. This construction stuff is really not that hard when you think it through. I will just need to stay focused, take my time and be careful when making that cut or nailing! I did forget to ask this. I have a table saw, will that work or will I need to invest in a chop saw too?
Quote from: alcowboy on October 22, 2008, 10:24:24 PM
will I need to invest in a chop saw too?
A good miter saw is very handy when doing work like trim. It's handy for a lot of other tasks too. It's sometimes a lot easier to move the saw blade than to move the wood. The ones with a sliding table are especially nice though I only have a 15+ year old non sliding cast iron Ryobi.
On the other hand they used to hang a lot of really nice trim before those things became commonplace. We (my Dad and a much younger I) used handsaws for a lot of the renovating way back when.
Quote from: alcowboy on October 22, 2008, 10:06:21 PM
Question on the pocket doors.
the biggest obstacle for me may be the trim out.
Did you look back around post 53 on this thread I have some pocket door info.
The biggest obstacles with pocket doors , to a beginner is just about ever thing. If you follow the directions and use some of my tips along with the directions you should be able to do it.
As far a what tools you need , it depends , houses have been built with hand tools , and power tools . Either one will get it done , how fast and how well will to dependant on you.
I grade my work pretty fair, it could be better , some times it could be faster , sometimes it could be cleaner / cooler etc. I don't "settle" for close enought is good enought very often in what I do. I'm always looking to improve some thing.
So it depends on your standards and what you want to "get out of it".
I like power tools , they do clean neat work faster than hand tools for most things. Hand tools do have there place in my box, so don't get me wrong. I need both / all.
G/L PEG
Between this (attempting to build my home and acquiring tools in the process) and my working on losing weight I should be able to try out for HGTV's next "hunky carpenter". [crz] rofl
Bump
74 replies , 25,000 views, must be good to look at , but hard to reply to ???
Peg, we are mostly in awe of all that you do. It leaves most of us speachless.
Please don't stop.
Bruce
Thanks.
How about flatting some Madrone slabs,
The jig based on a FWW article a couple of months ago,
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/002-3.jpg)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/004-4.jpg)
One of these will be made into a powder room counter-top with a vessel sink , the other two will be table tops.
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/009.jpg)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/014.jpg)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/013.jpg)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/012-1.jpg)
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/011.jpg)
There is a guy here in Berkeley, ca that sells huge burlwood slabs. Always thought about
getting one to make a table out of, but it is probably out of my price range.
Do you have the link to the jig article?
Bruce
Hey Bruce I think this is a link to the article that Peg was referring to. I missed the issue, I do not subscribe to it but I pick one up now and them.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/41363/fine-woodworking-on-the-david-letterman-show
If you are a member of their subscription service you can most likely down load the article. Or it might be in the stores still. I think it is on the racks for two months.
rlr
Thank you very much Rick!
Bruce