wall framing

[Jumpinfrog]

I have the plans for the 20 x 30 one story cottage. I am trying to decide between 2x4 or 2x6 walls. This is a simpler cabin for use mostly in the summertime in a warm area that does not get very cold. What I am wondering is, if I go with 2x4, I figure to do 16" oc? Can I space 24" oc with 2x6. It seems that the plans call for 2x6 16" oc. The Wagner book says 2x6 walls 24" oc and 2x4 walls 16" oc? Also how do you build the wall 30' long without building it in sections or do you? Do I need to build 2 or more wall sections with 2x between and 2x on the top tieing it all together? I figured to use 20' lumber for the other 2 walls. What are the pros and cons of each method?

[MountainDon]

On a single story either 2x4 on 16" or 2x6 on 24" will be structurally sound. There is not too much cost difference when comparing the two. For the use/climate you state either would work. What I personally like about 2x6 walls is that the extra insulation will help keep it warm or cool inside the building. And in the future who knows how your use pattern may change.

Another consideration is whether or not you are going to be subject to building and energy codes. If you need to go through those hoops you may find 2x6 wall framing to be necessary. Here in NM they use a very recent energy code and it is very difficult to qualify a building with 2x4 walls or cheap windows in some of the higher, colder elevations.

[MountainDon]

As for constructing long walls, it can be built in a long section on the deck/floor and then raised in one piece with a large enough crew.

As I am a crew of one I built my walls in sections of 8 to 16 feet.  Build the wall sections and then when erected insert the necessary studs. No need to double them up. The following drawings should explain how to do it.





The top plate is then installed to tie the sections together, overlap the splices/joints by 4 feet or more. The bottom plate you simply nail down.

[MountainDon]

2x4 vs 2x6

[Jumpinfrog]

  Thanks for all the information Don!

[John Raabe]

Clever technique for the walls, Don. Anytime you can eliminate an unneeded stud the more room you make for insulation.

When you go 24" o/c you may have to go to 5/8" wallboard rather than the 1/2" that can be used on 16" centers.

[MountainDon]

Good point on the drywall, John. I meant to mention that... 1/2" on 24 centers can look wavy. We're going with 3/4 T&G wood on most walls and it slipped my mind. 

[georgevacabin]

Hey Don,

Looks like I will be working on my own for the next several trips to work on the cabin.  Good tips.  Can you give a few hints on standing the sections up and 'plumbing' them?  Newbie question I know . . . Thanks!

[MountainDon]

 
When building sections that I was going to be handling myself I tied to do nothing longer than 12 feet, 8 feet if it had a window with header and all in it. Something like that I found no problem lifting and making vertical.

I screwed blocks along the edge of the floor so the wall section would not slide off.

I was building 2x6 framed walls. I found they stood on their own with no problem, no tendency to tip one way or the other. No wind though. I could move them with my 4 pound hammer.

If you can handle the weight of at least one sheet of sheathing, squaring the wall on the floor and nailing one sheet in place would make squaring it up easier. Short of that nailing on one or two 1x's as temporary diagonal braces could help. If using these be sure they are placed so as to not interfere with placing the wall.

Start with a level and square floor deck or things will be harder as you go along.

I braced the first section in all directions and took extra care to get it plumb. The second section joined the first at the corner. Again I took extra care to ensure its plumbness. That almost guarantees a good finish.

Once all four walls were up I checked the width measured at the upper plates in four places (30 foot wall). I found I had to pull them in to get the distances equal. I used a series of ratchet straps. When I was satisfied I nailed some temporary 2x4's across the top before proceeding. After all that I found all the walls were very close to being right on the vertical.

I use bar clamps and large and medium size C-clamps a lot to hold things while knocking things square. Then I nail. Sometimes I use 3 inch deck screws as temporary fasteners while I check things out. Then I nail and remove the screws for another job.

PEG will probably have some ideas of his own. 

[MountainDon]

more...

You'll likely have studs with a crown to them. At least some. Most of mine were so good I couldn't tell one way or another. If your floor is good and level it's sometimes easier to gauge by placing them one edge down, then the other.

You're building the wall flat on the floor, outside surface up. Place any lumber with a crown, crown up. That way it'll sit on the floor without rocking on the curved side.

IMO, one of the nicer tools for a solo builder is a few bar clamps. They're invaluable. You can use them to twist a warped stud as you nail.

[John Raabe]

Here's a good book if you haven't checked it out yet:

http://www.countryplans.com/books.html

(Third one down - Working Alone)

[PEG688]

Here's a few tip for  lifting walls ,


#1: Start with a 2x4 block and a flat bar , use the bar to get the 2x4 under the wall plate to let you get you hands in place. One the 2x4's under there use a regular stud to lift the wall a bit higher so a 2x6 on edge can be slipped under.

#2: Now once you have that space you can lift the wall up waist high and slide your saw horses under the walls like this,

 

you can see my on edge 2x blocks and my pre-attached (((((with one nail so the 2x4 will pivot as the wall goes up)))) brace. Nothing like getting a wall stood and then remembering you need a temp brace Pre-attached and with a place like this the brace will help some by digging into the ground if you lose a little lift when your going up with it. A weak moment if you will.

#3: Now see the horses right under a stud , they can help if you don't have wall jack as the "hardest" point of the lift is the change of hands direction some where about the waist but below the shoulders . You can lift and slide the horses in a bit at a time till the wall is just above that turn of the hands point.

The other key to this are the pivot nails / toe nails that you used to hold yo bottom plate to your snapped line before you squared up the wall section.



I put one pivot / toe  nail about every 3 feet.


So  have your lines snapped , nail all your studs, trimmers,  headers , etc in place. Align the bottom plate left and right and onto your line , Get it close then from one end to the other pull or push the plate to the snapped line  place your pivot /toe nails every three feet or so . Then square up the wall with a corner to corner measurement. Just be sure you measure from the "same" points (( top plate to bottom plate / corner to corner  IE the same reference points ))   and when the numbers match the wall is square.

Tack it down to it can't slide to come out of square then sheet the wall laying down. Once sheathed stand up using the horses to help or wall jacks .

I figure 10 L/F of 2x6 16" OC wall per man. About 14' of 2x4 wall 16" OC.


Mtn. D's idea is a good one as well if you can't stand the walls sheathed for some reason , in remodeling we have to stand a lot of walls unsheathed due to a variety of reasons to varied to state specifically all the reasons why.     

     

[georgevacabin]

Great Stuff!!!  Thanks All!    And thanks for the pics Pegg.  I am certainly a visual learner .