Note: John, if this isn't ok to post please let me know but I'm hoping it is ok.
Thanks.
Erik
Okanogan and Ferry County cabin folks: How likely is it you'd be interested in having someone haul their portable sawmill to your place to mill up some of your trees?
I'm seriously considering putting my Woodmizer LT10 onto a trailer and starting a business sawing logs in that area (Okanogan, Omac, Tonasket, Oreville, Republic etc). I may upgrade to a larger mill if I find the work is there.
[Edit -- upgrades to the mill have improved some things] What I can do now: Up to 24" diameter logs 18 feet in length (~18'6") to pretty much any dimension you want. I can mill anything from 1/4" thickness (actually smaller but can't imagine anyone wanting that small -- heck, smaller then 3/8" might have me scratching my head) to anything above that. So doing 5/8" roughsawn lumber is easy as asking and anything larger is just faster -- so dimensional lumber from your pine, fir or Tamarack is easy enough (actually any kind of wood suitable for your needs is fine).
With one assistant I can usually mill around 150 to 250 board feet an hour which means you'd be paying about 25 cents per board foot -- and will get about 50% MORE out of your logs then if a traditional mill saws them up. However, the smaller the logs the less efficient the process so I won't saw logs smaller then about 8" in diameter if I can help it -- milling 6-8" logs could get a little spendy (perhaps more then $1/bf) but then again, if you wanted them milled I'd probably be willing to do it. My preference is stuff in the 15 to 20 inch diameter range as they produce very well on the mill.
Larger then 24" would have to be slabbed down by the customer to 24" or less so it will fit on the mill.
Feedback?
Thanks
Erik
The more I look into this the more I'm considering it.
Rates will be $50 setup and delivery within 20 miles (additional fees may incur for longer distances) and $50/hr milling rate with a likely minimum of 4 hours of milling (not much point in dragging the mill out for two logs unless the customer is willing to pay for it).
[Edit -- production rates are much higher then I first estimated] So if the possibility of getting 600-1000 board feet of lumber for $450 (if only a 4 hour job) interests you -- out of your own trees that is -- then let me know.
Also, for those out of the area, please chime in as it would be interesting to see what others think too.
Changed the title as the original might have been a little misleading or at least lacking in details enough to get folks to see it.
Had to make a few edits since I originally posted this.
1. Production rates can be as high as 250 board feet an hour -- or greater even -- but depend on log sizes, placement of logs on site when I arrive, helper (all portable mills I've seen advertised are mill and operator only and the customer provides the help to load and offload the mill -- so, busy owner means higher production rates -- or an owner willing to pay an additional fee for a helper -- one of my boys).
2. The mill is now being installed onto a new trailer :) So it will be ready to tow right up to your remote location.
3. Just ordered the bed extension too, so I can now mill just over 18 foot logs :)
4. Cost per board foot may be as low as 20 cents! Considering big box stores charge as much as $3 per board foot you really can't lose having someone mill lumber out of your own trees!
Those seem like competitive rates. I wish you the best of luck with that. I was just looking at a Craigslist ad here in the Charlotte, NC area and a fellow is advertising his portable sawmill with a $125 trip/setup charge and $55 per hour for one experienced sawyer plus a helper. The lot I just bought is very wooded and I have thought about thinning out some trees in one part of the land anyway. Using them for lumber interests me a lot.
In your expert opinion, how would a layperson such as myself scout out suitable trees for milling into lumber? Any tips would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Ray
Erik... good luck with this! I may have to duplicate your efforts here in NM if this works out for you. Any customers yet?
Do you have video of your mill working?
Quote from: roadtripray on December 03, 2012, 04:56:53 PM
Those seem like competitive rates. I wish you the best of luck with that. I was just looking at a Craigslist ad here in the Charlotte, NC area and a fellow is advertising his portable sawmill with a $125 trip/setup charge and $55 per hour for one experienced sawyer plus a helper. The lot I just bought is very wooded and I have thought about thinning out some trees in one part of the land anyway. Using them for lumber interests me a lot.
In your expert opinion, how would a layperson such as myself scout out suitable trees for milling into lumber? Any tips would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Ray
Those are good rates! Around here typical rate for one sawyer and the mill is $65-$85/hr unless traveling to a location then can run as high as $100/hr plus setup fees etc. With a helper runs $130 with a guy down in Southern Oregon and I'm not sure what anyone else charges.
Can't say I'm an expert though :o Just a guy who's milled up a bunch of pine for his cabin and needs to find ways to earn enough to survive!
On advice for trees for lumber I'd suggest going to ForestryForum.com and asking the foresters there (they are experts) but if you were my customer I'd say to stick with the tallest and straightest trees you can and try to get the ones that are at least 12" at chest height.
Basically it's about production vs value I think. For example if you have a LOT of trees in the 8-10 inch diameter size and want the lumber for yourself and don't mind paying a fixed rate (lot of guys won't saw small logs at a footage rate) then just take the biggest ones to thin out the woodlot and give room for the smaller trees to grow -- at least that's my thinking but again, go to the forestry forum and ask there since those folks are serious arborists, foresters and sawyers!
Quote from: NM_Shooter on December 03, 2012, 04:57:35 PM
Erik... good luck with this! I may have to duplicate your efforts here in NM if this works out for you. Any customers yet?
Do you have video of your mill working?
This is the only video I have now:
(https://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af102/emcvay/th_MVI_0432.jpg) (https://s998.photobucket.com/albums/af102/emcvay/?action=view¤t=MVI_0432.mp4)
That's the way we milled all of my knotty pine and blue stained pine (and we're still at it).
Quote from: NM_Shooter on December 03, 2012, 04:57:35 PM
Erik... good luck with this! I may have to duplicate your efforts here in NM if this works out for you. Any customers yet?
Do you have video of your mill working?
Forgot to answer your question about customers. No, maybe, could be! lol
Truth is I haven't been doing any real advertising. I posted a couple ads on Craigslist and had someone local call about doing a slab job for him (about 20 minutes work) which I'll do once the trailer is done.
Might have some work near Omac in the late spring but one never knows this far out.
Beyond that I don't really know but my research tells me it's hard to find anyone near there to mill in remote locations which suggests the work may be there. After all, a LOT of folks have cabins and property up there and could use lumber.
A couple we sold our trailer to has parents with 160 acres near us and I guess they might be interested too...so it's a lot of ??? at the moment but I believe once the mill is done (getting the trailer finished etc) and I am able to show it off then I can get work. The real question is: will it support me?
The investment for a larger mill (one size up) that's already on a trailer etc is about $10k and if I could have done that I would have but I figure the $7k or so I'll have in mine will either pay for itself and feed me or it won't. And I'll keep looking for work in the telecom world while I work on my business.
Make sense?
Hmmmm.... what about finding folks who want property cleared. Can you do the clearing in exchange for the timber and then sell it off? Or would the brush and stump work be too much of a hassle?
Seems like there ought to be a way to make some $$$ off of that thing. Do you wear out your blades very quick? I read that water cooling helps to keep the blades sharp.
I may have some in the spring.
I have some trees dying here and there that would be worth milling.
I wouldn't mind having enough to finish my walls and maybe even floor boards.
I'll check with you latter on once the snows gone.
Quote from: NM_Shooter on December 03, 2012, 07:01:40 PM
Hmmmm.... what about finding folks who want property cleared. Can you do the clearing in exchange for the timber and then sell it off? Or would the brush and stump work be too much of a hassle?
Seems like there ought to be a way to make some $$$ off of that thing. Do you wear out your blades very quick? I read that water cooling helps to keep the blades sharp.
I could do the clearing work but would prefer not too....though, if the logs are big enough it might be worth milling them up to sell but I don't have a trailer to haul them with.
Blades are resharpened after 2-3hrs of use for $7/ea so not much of an issue :) I have 16 that I rotate and plan to get more if there is work to be done.
Quote from: diyfrank on December 03, 2012, 09:22:29 PM
I may have some in the spring.
I have some trees dying here and there that would be worth milling.
I wouldn't mind having enough to finish my walls and maybe even floor boards.
I'll check with you latter on once the snows gone.
No problem :) Just let me know when the time comes and I'll be there :) I'll give cheaper rates to the first countryplans forum members who need some lumber too ;) Just drop me a line when the time comes and I'd be happy to make it very worthwhile ;) After all, what I need to get started is some folks who are happy with the service and product telling others about it.
Best thing to do when the time comes (and this is really for everyone), is to fall the trees, buck them into lengths you'd prefer to have (add 6" per log -- so if you want 1x's that are 8 feet long cut the log to 8'6" to allow for checking etc), then roll them all into a 'landing' that the mill can be towed to. The logs will load on the drivers side of the mill/rig so bear that in mind too.
The trailer is 20' plus tongue and bigger mills aren't too much longer (I think the LT40 is 24' but need to check) and will be detached from the truck once in operation.
Another thing to do is to make sure the 'butts' are all on the same side -- meaning the fat ends are all together. This makes dealing with the taper easier for the miller.
Lastly, if you're (again for anyone) in the area near me and need the skidder I can drive over the tractor to skid the logs to the landing for a reasonable fee -- as long as it's not too far! Longer distances I'll have to rent a trailer but that's also doable for the appropriate fees.
Hope that all makes sense.
Erik
Thought of something else to: Blue Stain!
If you have windfalls laying around (who doesn't? lol) then check them for rot and if they appear to have some good wood in them buck those up also! They make beautiful lumber for trim!
(https://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af102/emcvay/Cabin/BlueStain.jpg)
The trim around this window came from an old windfall pine I milled up! We LOVE the way it looks!
Of course, old dead trees can have a fair amount of rot in them so you have to consider that there will be loss in the log but it's best to mill them, dry them and then see what can be used and what must be cut out. We think it's well worth the effort though!
Very excited! [cool] :) My 7 foot bed extension arrived today and I only ordered it Yesterday!!!
I wanted to add this for all of you who might be thinking of having a portable miller come out and mill up some trees (doesn't matter where your cabin is):
Stickers!
Stickers are the little 1/2" to 3/4" thick and wide pieces of wood that go between each layer of new lumber that's been freshly milled when it is stacked for drying and you need lots of them!
The best thing to do if you are in a remote location and don't have a drying barn (or something of the sort like a shed etc) then pick up some pallets (you can get those free if you look) and lay them out on the ground where you'll be stacking your finished lumber for drying. I usually use 3 pallets for 8 foot lumber.
Then set your stickers which need to be about 3/4"x1"x48" (you can use bigger and smaller but I've found that 3/4" by 1" makes a great sticker) near by so they can be quickly grabbed and placed on the stack evenly spaced (about 2 feet apart with one on each end). Make sure they stay dry before use also.
Then when the sawmill is set up and the operator is ready to start making your lumber place some 2x4's length wise down the 3 pallets so you can then use your stickers to lift the bottom new lumber off the pallets and 2x's. This allows air to travel under and around the boards which will draw out the moisture.
The miller will only usually operate the mill itself and you, the property owner/customer gets to play 'mill hand' during the milling process (unless you want to pay for a 2nd person to come do that for you which usually runs $25-$30/hr from what I've seen). This means that as soon as the log is made into a 'cant' (4 square sided log) then the operator will begin sawing your specified lumber and as each pass is completed (takes probably 30 seconds to a minute depending on the log size if I had to guess) you grab the fresh board and place it carefully on the stickers.
Once you have covered the pallets with the first row side to side you place more stickers down on that row and continue to build the next.
When I'm operating my mill at a good pace it will keep the helper humping! ;D [cool]
In fact, many times I've done it and only just managed to get the stickers down when my son finishes the next pass and I've got to get back and grab the lumber so he can start the next pass! It's actually kind of fun specially when it's YOUR lumber coming off the mill and the more efficient you are the more lumber you get for your money.
When it's all done you'll have a tall stack of lumber ready to dry (I've done 4'x4'x8' of 5/8" boards in 5 hours!) and you can just cover it with a tarp and move to the next pile!
A tarp, however, isn't the best way to dry lumber and it is recommended that you build a 'roof' over the stack with some 2x's and plywood but I lost less then 10% drying under tarps and plastic in the spring in the Okanogan and much of the time I didn't lose anything! SO it can be done it's just not ideal.
Anyway, I hope that helps those interested in understanding the process a bit and what to prepare for when the miller shows up.
Also, the owner is expected to help load the logs (I use cant hooks and will be using a hand winch on my mill which will make it very easy).
Exciting news! Just got invited by the WSU Extension Forester to demonstrate my sawmill at the 'Land owners field day' he's having this summer in Okanogan County.
QuoteBy the way, we will be holding a landowner field day in Okanogan County on June 22. If you'd like to demonstrate your sawmill, it might be a good way to drum up some business.
So for those in the area who would like to see the mill in action I plan to drag it out there and bring along a nice pine log to mill on the spot. Should be fun!
Awesome! Best of luck to you on your demo.
Quote from: roadtripray on December 13, 2012, 08:45:17 PM
Awesome! Best of luck to you on your demo.
Thanks Ray, I'm pretty stoked!
The challenge, as with any endeavor of this sort, is to get customers and nothing works better then exposure!
Of course, I have to survive until June but I think we can do it and by then I ought to have even more experience with the mill :)
Sounds like a good deal to me. I have several - several thousand feet milled every year. Most the time I just have it fallen, skidded, loaded and sawed by the same guy. Once in a while I will fall and buck them up but my guy would just as soon do it himself. He is so particular about how it has to be.... well with good cause.
Do you sharpen your blades yourself? My guy has been sending them out and he is grumbling mightily.
I send mine out because it's only $7/blade but I can understand someone not liking that if they have a LOT of them to do....someone running 3 or 4 or more blades a day could be spending a lot of funds on sharpening but most pros that I've spoken with pay for the unlimited service instead which is a lot cheaper -- though I understand you have to do a lot of milling to make it pay.
Just got my axle in! Took 6 or 8 weeks but finally arrived.
Now the trailer can finally be built and customized for the mill! Things should get exciting from here on out!
(https://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af102/emcvay/Trailer.jpg)
Coming along with the new trailer :) This is an older pic (I need some new ones) but wanted to post here anyway.
Got a call to do a logging truck load of logs for a rancher about 90 miles away :) Can't wait to get working it!
That looks great! Congrats on the job. Let us know how it goes.
Thanks!
I'm hoping to get it bolted down this weekend (lots of drilling to do) and then the big test will be getting the mill head back up on the rails and loading a log onto the deck.
Have to get the winch set up and also work out the details on my new (in my head still) log clamp :)
But luckily this big job isn't until late April early May so I have some time to sort it.
You might want to consider a note to clients about blade cost replacement if you hit some metal and lose a blade. Also, if you have ,or they, have a gas-powered pressure washer it would come in handy to clean up real dirty logs. That way you could get 800-1000bf/ blade... Just a thought from the cutting I've done. Good luck!!
What kind of mill were you doing that on Dave? I don't think I can get much over 200bf a band on my saw.
A Woodmizer HD-40, with a debarker option... I always take along a REALstiff broom to brush off the dirt from the infeed side. usually don't use the debarker, tho. If you can keep the bark clean as possible the blades will really last, but I have had times in old yellow fir out here on the coast when 200 bf would have been a bonus...That danged dirt just destroys the blades. If you have a lube option it can extend things as well. I think you spend time on the Forestry Forum, and they have plenty of great guys with good suggestions.
Quote from: curlewdave on January 30, 2013, 03:42:52 PM
A Woodmizer HD-40, with a debarker option... I always take along a REALstiff broom to brush off the dirt from the infeed side. usually don't use the debarker, tho. If you can keep the bark clean as possible the blades will really last, but I have had times in old yellow fir out here on the coast when 200 bf would have been a bonus...That danged dirt just destroys the blades. If you have a lube option it can extend things as well. I think you spend time on the Forestry Forum, and they have plenty of great guys with good suggestions.
Yup, that's me ;) I'm gleaning all I can from them!
Thought I would share this with you all too :) I'm getting pretty excited about this!
(http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22463/IMG_0928_28640x48029.jpg)
Center basket installed to transport fuel cans, tools, blades etc.
When in use these things must be removed of course, but this allows me to place various items in the trailer to transport it.
(http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22463/IMG_0927_28640x48029.jpg)
Another look. Personally I love this idea! The expanded metal allows sawdust to fall through.
(http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22463/IMG_0929_28640x48029.jpg)
(http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22463/IMG_0931_28640x48029.jpg)
The bumper :) Ready for lights.
(http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22463/IMG_0933_28640x48029.jpg)
Tomorrow I'll update with tonight's progress and whatever we manage to get done tomorrow (like mounting the head I hope).
Basically, I'm getting excited!
(https://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af102/emcvay/Cabin/Portable%20Sawmill/IMG_0968640x480_zpse0c8d056.jpg)
The trailer is almost ready for the road. Meanwhile we continue to use it to test out the mods we need to make in order to make it user friendly off the ground like this (since WM designed it to be run on the ground).
That small log we picked up and set on the mill but soon there will be a winch with ramps that will roll the logs onto the mill.
By mid spring those who are interested should be able to see the mill in the Okanogan and for those who go to the Extensions land owners events in June (23rd I think) we'll be there milling up stuff so you can see what it's like.
Just came across this thread. Very cool! [cool]
If I ever get the Lightning tree down and figure out a way to get a few others out of the woods I will be in touch.
Keep us up to date and let us know the details of the demonstration day. Is Ron W. the Forester?
(https://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af102/emcvay/Cabin/Portable%20Sawmill/IMG_0965640x480_zpsebb87b92.jpg)
Action shot! :D
I'm loving having the mill up on the trailer and have used it a lot since moving to my place. Still need to get the lights done, ramps done and the winches done.
As for moving trees, you're not so far away I couldn't bring the tractor over to skid them out to the mill for you. Heck, depending on how far you are it's possible I could just drive it over but if your close to Crawfish I'd probably trailer it to save fuel (not sure how much that would save though, but it might save 30 minutes since driving the tractor at 10-14mph can be tough on a bouncy dirt road.
Either way, we can skid logs too ;) Heck, my jeep makes a good skidder too and as long as the ground where the mill will be used is relatively level it can be pulled in close to where the trees are down.
I think I've mentioned before that it's best to mill the tree as soon after falling it as possible so when you plan to get it milled up just schedule the milling to take place the same weekend (if possible) that you fall it.
Things to think about:
1. Is the tree wider then 24" above the stump? (Trees are measure at chest height but I like to recommend measuring where you plan to mill also since anything over 24" will need to be slabbed down with a CSM)
2. What size lumber do you want/need? I can mill true dimensions (2x4 is really 2x4) or to dimensional standards (1 1/2 x 3 1/2) though I'd mill dimensional stuff 1/16th to 1/8th over size to allow for shrinkage during drying. I can mill boards as wide as we can get from a 24" wide log (so about 16 to 20 inches roughly) and usually mill the CANT and go straight from there BUT I can quarter saw for those who want the grain to stand up -- that takes a lot longer though!
3. Where will the mill operate? Needs to have enough room for the mill and crew (you are part of the crew normally) and truck to pull the mill. Logs are loaded from the drivers side of the truck/mill so bear that in mind when planning the site. Ground should be reasonable flat/level though the mill has leveling jacks.
4. Logs should be staged so they taper the same direction (towards rear of the mill) -- the operator runs the mill from the tongue to the rear from the passenger side of the mill (based on where the truck would be) so the large end of logs should be on the drivers side large end on the tongue side. The mill will want to be so the logs are staged at the center of the 21 foot bed and about 8 to 10 feet away from where the mill will sit. I have 10 foot ramps that will be placed from the mill deck to where the logs are and a winch to winch them up onto the deck. Also a good idea to have the logs sitting on top of 4x4's if possible. This keeps them off the ground (keeps them from getting anymore dirt on them) and makes them easier to roll onto the ramps/mill etc.
5. Water: I'll bring water but if you have a water source please let me know as the mill uses water to keep the blade clean.
6. Nails: pull any and all nails you are aware of, broken bands are bad!
7. trim all branches as flush to the trunk as possible. A little knob here and there won't matter much but it's best to have the logs as clean and straight as possible.
8. Drying Lumber: It takes about 8 weeks to dry pine in the Okanogan if you do it the way I have which is to stack and sticker the lumber and cover it with plastic to dry. This approach works but isn't the best approach.
(https://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af102/emcvay/Cabin/paneling.jpg)
I use 3 pallets for 8 foot lumber and 4 for 10 to 12 foot lumber and 1 sticker for every two feet of board plus one on either end (8 foot boards require 5 stickers). The stickers I use are about 3/4" thick by 1" wide and I get them from a sawmill about 50 miles from me. They toss and burn any bent of broken sticker (theirs are 8 feet long) and I can pick them up and cut them to useable lengths BUT I'd have to charge if someone wanted them for their lumber and I can't always guarantee I can get them. Best option is to seek out small mills in your area and see if they do the same thing, next would be to bring a stack of 1x4's that we can rip down on the mill (no charge to countryplans members!) into stickers. You will need A LOT of stickers. Figure each row of boards on the pallets represents about 36 to 40 inches in width and 8 foot lengths would make that roughly 24 to 27 board feet per layer so the ten layers in this picture is about 250 board feet and 50 stickers. That's about 1 to 2 hours worth of milling if things are going well (I can mill up to 200 bf per hour on a good day, maybe even 250 but the mill is rated at 160 -- of course when things aren't going well it might only get 75 to 125 bf per hour).
I'd say to have at least 3 pallets per 500 to 1000 board feet of lumber (1000 is stacking it awfully high though).
(https://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af102/emcvay/Cabin/IMG_0064.jpg)
This is about 700 bf and about 4 feet tall. The stickers were made from 1/2" OSB and worked fine.
Try to make sure you have good flat ground for the pallets to sit on and if you have time, plan to make a roof over the stack that extends 18" all around and has a slight peak to shed water. This would be best but again, plastic/tarping does work. It's what I've done with all mine.
9. There will be a lot of bark and sawdust and it will have to dealt with (by you the customer). Plan to have a spot to move it to during the milling process that will give room to work and of course hook up and tow out the mill when done.
10. To run the mill I provide the operator (me) and you provide the offbearer (takes the boards off the mill) and onloader (assists in loading logs). Having an extra hand to help you will make the operation go much better and produce a lot more per hour (when the mill is really going I mill, draw back, mill, draw back etc without pause so the lumber comes off pretty fast! Having to grab a board and walk it to a pile 20 feet away and put stickers down doesn't give you much time to get back to the mill to get the next board! Trust me! :D When I'm really cranking out the lumber (200+ bf/hr) you'll be hopping!!
Best bet is to have saw horses ready (or a tractor with forks on it) to set the boards as well as a set for the re-useable flitches (the boards cut off the make the CANT which can be milled into stickers or usable lumber). Having it planned out a bit in advance will save time on milling day :D and make it much more fun!
(https://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af102/emcvay/Cabin/IMG_0039.jpg)
In this picture James is offbearing as soon as Josh finishes the cut. The pallet wasn't in the best place (best on the opposite side and not in front of the staged logs) but demonstrates the offbearers job a little. In this case he's just laying them on the big pallet and will restack and sticker when done. This works fine.
(https://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af102/emcvay/Cabin/IMG_0049-1.jpg)
In this one you see the offbearer taking a 'flitch' to the burn pile. Flitches are the bark ends that I usually try to make too small to be useable (to strip the bark and start the CANT) but some will be such that we can mill 1x3s or larger out of -- band mills can do this and will give you about 30% more lumber out of your logs -- also because of the 1/8" KERF).
These pics show the mill on the ground, it won't be now of course and this makes it better for the offbearer as well as me (the operator).
That ought to do it for now! I'll try to pop in and post something on guesstimating board footage in a log so you have an idea of how much lumber you might get out of a tree and I encourage all of you in the area to mark June 22nd on your calendars! I'll be in Okanogan for the Foresters land owners field day (which I can't wait to attend myself!) and you'll get a chance to meet me (since most of you haven't) and see the mill in action too :) and learn a bunch from the Forester!
Oh and the Forester is Andrew B. Perleberg.
Cheers
Erik
I should add that it's best to mill your lumber before the hot and dry summer months. If it's too hot and dry the wood will dry too fast and cause a loss to warping etc. I will mill anytime but best months are now through June IMHO. July is ok as long as it's the first half of the month, later when it dries out (in my area that is) you would want to keep the wood drying in the shade near a water source I'm told. Some humidity in the air is good actually.
(https://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af102/emcvay/Cabin/Portable%20Sawmill/IMG_0010640x480_zps21a4350a.jpg)
Maiden Voyage?
Well not exactly, we were just moving the mill back to the shop (next door) so the rest of the metal work could be completed. Initial testing was done and everything is going great!
First test for REAL milling will be in the Okanogan on the 5th of April, then it's off (if all goes well) to the state police to have it inspected on the 17th of April and then we're in business!
Since I'm working full time Mon-Friday my son's will operate the mill during the week if there is out of town work and I'll run it (possibly with them) on weekends if we get orders.
So far I've had a lot of interest and believe it's very possible this will become a serious venture for my sons and I :)
Have sawmill, will travel (to VERY remote places too!)
(https://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af102/emcvay/IMG_0069640x480_zps81bd455c.jpg)
Were almost done!
(https://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af102/emcvay/IMG_0071640x480_zpse0c5c3d0.jpg)
Just a few things to tidy up and a weekend (this weekend we're going to test it out with several logs at our cabin) and then we're ready to mill lumber for you!
(https://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af102/emcvay/Cabin/Portable%20Sawmill/IMG_0153640x480_zps446919e5.jpg)
It works! :D
(https://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af102/emcvay/Cabin/Portable%20Sawmill/IMG_0154640x480_zpsfa9d7248.jpg)
Anything from 8 inches in diameter (smaller is doable but not recommended unless you really want to pay to have them milled into lumber -- it's just that they aren't very cost affective) to 24" in diameter and 6 feet (shorter is doable but not a lot shorter) to 18 feet -- 18feet is pushing it though!
(https://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af102/emcvay/Cabin/Portable%20Sawmill/IMG_0165640x480_zpsbc181ae2.jpg)
That's a 16% grade (approximately) and very narrow but we can make it!
(https://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af102/emcvay/Cabin/Portable%20Sawmill/IMG_0167640x480_zps1c20e2ee.jpg)
I'm very happy with the portability of the mill. We were able to drag it into our place which isn't the most 'trailer friendly' of places I've been to! lol
http://moseslake.craigslist.org/fgs/3732419783.html
Started posting ads :)
For CountryPlans forumites rates will be lower ;)
First person to have us do some milling from the forum will get the best possible rate! ;) I figure I owe the forum just for letting me share our adventure so what better way to pay back your indulgence?
Good luck in your endevour !
Thanks!
There is just something about making lumber out of your own trees/logs! I can't wait to get back and get more done
Received a quote request from someone a few miles from our cabin :D
Got a few updates done (and coming) on the mill :) 10hp motor upgrade (faster production on larger logs), 5 gallon water lube system (original was 1 gallon), milling scale (4/4, 5/4, 6/4, 8/4) etc.
Going to test out some of it this weekend (milling 3", 4" and 5/8" material and perhaps some 6x8's if I get the time). Also meeting a customer in Waukonda :)
(https://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af102/emcvay/Cabin/Portable%20Sawmill/IMG_9835640x427_zps20b22dda.jpg) (https://s998.photobucket.com/user/emcvay/media/Cabin/Portable%20Sawmill/IMG_9835640x427_zps20b22dda.jpg.html)
Here I am :)
(https://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af102/emcvay/Cabin/Portable%20Sawmill/IMG_9997640x427_zpsc592a5a0.jpg) (https://s998.photobucket.com/user/emcvay/media/Cabin/Portable%20Sawmill/IMG_9997640x427_zpsc592a5a0.jpg.html)
Probably posted a few of these in my cabin thread. The mill is really doing well! We're VERY happy with it anyway.
(https://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af102/emcvay/Cabin/Portable%20Sawmill/IMG_0071427x640_zps6cb9af98.jpg) (https://s998.photobucket.com/user/emcvay/media/Cabin/Portable%20Sawmill/IMG_0071427x640_zps6cb9af98.jpg.html)
Friend of mine rolling logs onto the mill. Anything that isn't too big is done faster this way!
(https://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af102/emcvay/Cabin/Portable%20Sawmill/IMG_0251480x640_zpsda37286a.jpg) (https://s998.photobucket.com/user/emcvay/media/Cabin/Portable%20Sawmill/IMG_0251480x640_zpsda37286a.jpg.html)
10hp! Gives us 60% greater production they say. We haven't tested it yet but I'm told it makes a LOT of difference, specially on the longer/bigger stuff.
(https://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af102/emcvay/Cabin/Portable%20Sawmill/IMG_0249640x624_zpsaf5e9eec.jpg) (https://s998.photobucket.com/user/emcvay/media/Cabin/Portable%20Sawmill/IMG_0249640x624_zpsaf5e9eec.jpg.html)
Brand new and it sounds like a beast!
We'll be milling in Waukonda on the 17th I believe and Leavenworth in June or July. Also still have plans to be at the Foresters Field Day if anyone is going.
Erik
http://extension.wsu.edu/forestry/Pages/default.aspx
For those interested in meeting us we'll be at the Forester's 'Forest Owners Field Day' in Tonasket on June 22nd.
Address and directions located on the flyer on he Foresters page (link above).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2K1xTY1sNus
Here we are milling in Waukonda this weekend :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lGXnUTf--bc
Here's another video of us milling.
We're offering an intro rate of $50/hr for Country plans members in our area :)
Thanks again for everyone's support!
Been a while!
For those interested I'm starting to look at milling this spring. I'm also looking at a bigger mill for larger jobs. A lot of dead trees in the Okanogan need to be milled up soon so I hope to get the mill ready by the thaw.
Nice video.. I just got mine rebuilt changing from 14" wheels to 16" .... It was easy once I got started but it sat in my shop about 8 months before Whitlock came over and got me motivated.. so it's his fault. :o
I am sawing some salvaged beetle damaged logs (only slight damage) that were given to me for getting them off a guys property. Lumber is so cheap now that .50 a BF is about all that can be had for corral boards as far as I can see. We have to be careful not to offend the Federal tree gods that protect big industry and union labor so not trying to go into it big. Something like 70% of the pine here is damaged and dying because of drought and beetles. Half the mountainsides in the pine forests are dead.
Quote from: glenn kangiser on February 08, 2016, 06:37:25 PM
Nice video.. I just got mine rebuilt changing from 14" wheels to 16" .... It was easy once I got started but it sat in my shop about 8 months before Whitlock came over and got me motivated.. so it's his fault. :o
I am sawing some salvaged beetle damaged logs (only slight damage) that were given to me for getting them off a guys property. Lumber is so cheap now that .50 a BF is about all that can be had for corral boards as far as I can see. We have to be careful not to offend the Federal tree gods that protect big industry and union labor so not trying to go into it big. Something like 70% of the pine here is damaged and dying because of drought and beetles. Half the mountainsides in the pine forests are dead.
Is that your 'for sale' rate on lumber? If so wow! Or is that your milling rate? A lot of millers seem to charge .35-.45c per bf for soft wood or just by the hour out here but occasionally I hear lower prices...but none of those for remote site milling as it's harder to find someone willing to drag a mill to the places I do! lol
That's it, Eric. I had someone interested but haven't heard back. I don't really want to work cheaper than that so I don't really care if I sell it either.
Blades are around $25
Truck and fuel to pick up cost money and time too and the truck and crane breaks, so I'd rather not work for less than cost. Just something to do in my spare time.
There was a guy doing it a bit north of here for .35 BF, towing a trailer behind his old car for deliveries but I heard he was losing his tail.
Exactly. I charge by the hour
At least you know what you end up with that way. :)
True. Though admittedly if I had a higher production mill I might consider a bf rate instead but with my mill it can run anywhere from 75bf/hr to 250bf/her depending on log size, type of wood, helpers etc etc so my average is much closer to 125-150bf/hr over the entire day. Charging by the hour helps ensure I don't lose my shirt on slow jobs!
I think my little mill is close to yours in production.
I can handle maximum 30" or so diameter about 21' long but they are always a fight and pretty slow to cut.
With this mill my max is 24"x 18'6" but I'm seriously looking at getting the Woodmizer LT35HD which can handle 32"x21' and has all hydraulics for loading, turning, clamping etc. It's a fairly high production mill
I would like a better one but rebuilding mine for the 16" wheels was about as close as I will get. It is just a simple push carriaage but it makes good boards. Lately I have more time than money so it will do. [ouch]
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/20160121_155855.jpg) (https://s35.photobucket.com/user/glennkangiser/media/20160121_155855.jpg.html)
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/20160122_114155.jpg) (https://s35.photobucket.com/user/glennkangiser/media/20160122_114155.jpg.html)
Nothing wrong with simple :) Mine LT10 is about as simple as it gets! Makes great lumber too.