Truss Gable end question.

[GW]

Forgive my ignorance but I don't really understand how to frame the gable end of my truss roof. I received the quote for my trusses  for a 16 x 25 studio I am building in June. The roof layout diagram that came with it shows the trusses stopping a few feet before the end of the structure, then it says framed gable walls. I was thinking I would have to use rafters and notch them for outriggers for the overhang. Does anyone know what size rafters I would need? Are they supported by the framing? I'll post a picture of the truss drawing. I was also thinking that depending on the rafter size I would need to build up the wall on the end to match the roof line with the truss, any tips or advice is appreciated, thanks.

[PEG688]

GW normally you'd use a gable end truss in your case with a vaulted truss have them provide a structural gable truss for each end . You then can "back frame " you windows and studs using that structural gable truss to attach your "top plates" to , so you'll just "fill in the studs and openings in a truss just like you've shown.

Make sense?

G/L PEG 


PS tell them to beef up the top cord on the "gable end " truss's IF they think they should for you to knotch for your outlookers . They may want to or they may say it's ok to knotch the top cord , depends on the loads they expect to carry with the top cord.

[GW]

I think I understand what you are talking about. Initially I assumed that I would be getting enough trusses to go right to the gable end. My plan was then to attach a ladder to accommodate a 1' overhang and then frame the gable wall and install the windows. The truss guy didn't really understand what I wanted, but I guess he is used to dealing with builders that know what they are about, thanks for your advice.

[PEG688]

You can do it that way with the ladder framing over a  site built wall. I think it would cost more  for the materials to build that wall that way , time wise it would surely take longer so IF labor is a factor as in dollars , and well your time has to be worth something as well you'd never come out ahead either way.

We've done some kit houses out of Canada where we assembled panelized walls and they sent out  similar ladder framing like your talking about , only they did it with a lowered gable end truss  that the ladder went over . It was a absolute PITA as any misalignment in  either the lowered truss , the "regular" truss and the ladder framing materials themselves ALL played a part in that PITA result. 

We did two of that type house and it was somewhat easier to figure out the "best way" to make a bad system work , it was not the best way to do the same effective look. 

So I'd recommend you have them sell you one more truss for each end exactly like the "standard" truss's and you can  back frame those gable ends in as I described in post #2.

  There  is another way you could do it IF they don't want you to notch the top cords , we just did or are doing a job where we hung over the OSB sheathing 15" then used  a ladder frame out of 1x4 rake pieces with 2x4 short outlookers . so a short 15" ladder frame that was then jambed into the corner / under side of the roof sheathing then nailed to the gable truss top card and down thru the roof sheathing to make what is in essence a box beam rake soffit. These soffits are enclosed so all that back framing gets covered  with 1x10 channel soffit materials , so that another way to skin a cat IF your  rake soffits are going to be enclosed.   

I can post photo of that way on Monday  or so if you'd like to see what I mean.

[ced257]

You might just have them build you a gable end truss. If not then just get some 2x6 for your rafters and throw a short ridge in. Looks like your roof is a 12 on 12 so it should be fairly easy, cut all your studs on a 45 bevel and fill in underneath. Notch out your rafter every 4 foot from the facia, for your lookouts. When you get it framed, pop you a line where you vault goes and run you a 2x4 for your deadwood.
  Or you could frame the whole gable end on the floor and plywood and stand it. We do that alot and it beats the heck out of having to tote OSB up a ladder and put on the gable ends. If you have enough people to help you stand it that is.

[GW]

After reviewing the plans again I noticed that the walls on the front and back of the cabin are higher than the side walls, this must be to account for the heel on the trusses. To keep it simpler for me I want to frame all the walls the same standard height. I emailed the the truss manufacturer and requested 2 more of the same trusses. As Peg suggested I want to run the trusses right to the gable wall and back frame it in. Then I will attach a ladder for the overhang and avoid notching the truss. Thanks again for the helpful suggestions.