Here is the begining of my project. It will be a slow project but as I complete parts I will post and keep everyone up to date. Here is the begining of the piers. Here are 2 pictures from pouring the piers. The one picture has the camp in the back ground and the 14 piers for the 1 1/2 story 20x30 addition. Also my 2 little helpers are in the back ground. The other picture is looking down one of the 14 piers. More to come.
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Just to keep everyone updated. I haven't made it back to camp lately. With school starting and my 3rd baby due in less than 2 weeks I haven't been able to get up there. I hope to get the floor framed in the fall or winter.
Three babies in less than two weeks -- that's gotta hurt. ;D
Please keep us posted. :)
Sorry should have stated it better. I have a 6yr old, a 4yr old, and a new baby in less than 2 weeks.
No problem -- I was just giving you a bad time. :)
I ordered my lumber yesterday for the cabin. I ordered enough lumber to get the place dried in. Also had a 10% coupon off at Lowes and 12 months same as cash. Hope to get started in a few weeks. They also are delivering the lumber all the way to camp which is 100 miles from the store for $134. Can't beat that. Lumber will be there July 15. More to follow. Pete
Sounds good, Pete. That should give you a good start.
Yes it will. The only lumber I'm missing is the loft floor joists. I'll probably get the local sawmill at camp to make some 4x12x20's for the floor joists so I can leave them exposed on the first floor. I have all of the other lumber need for subfloor, walls, rafters, ridge beam, wall sheathing and roof sheathing and headers for windows and doors. I know I'll be making a few more trips to the lumber yard but this should get me pretty far. Hopefully I can get it dried in before winter. Pete
Well, It looks like your crew in the top pix is ready to go to work, so you better try to keep up. Keep us posted, Pete.
The lumber was finally delivered on Monday, July 21. I got the new septic line run and the steel beam down the center of the camp. I also got the ground covered under the camp with a vapor barrior and 2b gravel. Forgot the camera so I'll get some Pics next time. I'll probably start the sub floor in a week or so.
So did you have a boy or girl? Congratulations - need pics of the new little one, also :)
You're making good progress now,
I have a son that is 7, daughter that is 5, and the youngest one, a boy is 10 months now. Hope to be framing soon.
Well I got the beams installed and all squared up. Corner to corner was right on the money and everything else is level. I also got the beams anchored to the piers and the front double 2x10's installed. Just no picture of the 2x10's. We had some heavy rain so I had to work between the rain drops. Hopefully next week will be the floor joists and sub floor. Here is a couple pics. Pete
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I grew up not far from your camp, in Coudersport, PA. Been to Tionesta and Braadley. Looks like your getting it things together just fine.
Thanks. We used to go to family camp up on Denton Hill off of Billy Lewis Rd. I bought this place a few years ago so that my family would have their own place to go to. Now we have out grown the smaller camp so I'm building a bigger one. Pete
I got the joists in and the center blocking done. Forgot the camera so I'll get some pics next week when I'm up at camp. More to come. Pete
Here is the latest progress. I forgot the camera last time so here are the pictures of the floor joists and then the recent pictures of the plywood on the subfloor. Pete
Floor Joists
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Looks good Pete.
One of those deck pictures was supposed to have someone dancing on it. A tradition here. :)
My daughter was but I didn't get a picture of it!!!! d* Pete
Nice work. I hope you still have room to get under it for plumbing and such.
I already ran the drain pipes for the kitchen and bathroom. I left a sheet of plywood unsecured over the bathroom area so that I could get to it later. I'm still undecided on insulating the floor. I might just put another layer of plywood down and then hardwood floors and see how it is.
Here is what 1 1/2 days with help do for you. I got all 4 walls up, the let in ledger done and some of the sheathing on. It is all square and plum. Can't wait to get the joists up so I can get the rafters up and the roof on and dried in before winter. Also, we were able to make a make shift roof from a big tarp that I had. Keeps the rain off!!!!!!!!
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Looks good. Thanks for the update.
peteh2833 yes it is amazing what an extra set of hands will do. Moving right along. At least in the dry somewhat. Keep us posted.
Thanks. I also picked up the rough cut floor joists for the loft. They look really nice. Hopefully I'll be taking them up there and installing in a couple weeks. Pete
Rough cut is used in the fancy restaurants around here as it looks better than planed and doesn't have those nasty black grade stamps all over it. ::) Mostly trim areas although I know of one that has the entire truss system made from ungraded rough and no problem.
I got the loft floor joists from an Amish saw mill locally. Really nice wood and his prices were really cheap. For example a 6x12x16 beam was $48 and a 6x6x8 post was $12. It will look nice when it is all installed. Pete
.50 per bf. - a good price for custom cut.
Our local guy likes to get $1.00 bf
Thanks. Thats what I thought. Also, I was surprised as to how easy it was to make the let in ledger. I just clamped 20 2x6's together at a time and marked out the ledger. I made a cut down each side and then unclamped them and plunge cut each one. Used a chisel to finish the rest and then did the cripple studs as needed. Very easy and they came out perfect. Pete
Good on the ledger let in, Pete. Many are afraid of it but it really isn't too hard.
Well I have a cousin that lives close to my camp and I asked him to go over an check on the place today. We had extremely high winds here in Pa on Sunday and alot of rain on Saturday. The building wasn't too bad. The tarp started to hold some water in a spot and got so heavey that it didn't blow away but it pulled the one long wall in on the top. I didn't have the double plate on yet but had all 4 walls tied together and braced. He let the water out of the tarp by putting a hole in it and then rebraced the wall for me. I just have to check it next time I'm up there to see if it is still all plumb and square. It sucks cause I had it all perfectly square and plumb. If I would have left the tarp off it wouldn't have been a problem. Oh well ..... Pete
I got a price for the metal for the roof. $1339 includes all the panels, the facia metal, the gable end metal, the ridge cap/vent, the blocks for the ends of the panels, and tax. Hope to get the rafters up in the next 2 weekends and then take the final measurements and order the metal. Sounds like a good price to me. Pete
About $2 psf complete is good I think -- about $5.50 per running foot out here with no trim - 3' wide.
Went to camp on Friday night and stayed till Saturday evening. We got alot done in a day. We set the 2 center 6x12x16 beams and got all the loft joists up and the rest of the sheathing on except for the back. We will be heading up next weekend to frame the roof out and hopefully get the sheathing on. Here is some pics of the work. Those 6x12x16 beams were heavy!!!!!! Pete
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Making good progress for a weekend warrior. With three people you can work fast on the rafters. One cut man(on the ground) and two on the top(one at the ridge and the other onthe eve). Looks like you will beat the snow if you have two or three good weekends. Your weather is not that different than ours and I would say we have a good month left before things start to turn nastier.
Thanks. I think I'll beat the snow. I have a weeks vacation planned the first week in November and I hope to putting on the metal roof by then and throwing in a couple windows and the front door. I have several rolls of Typar for the exterior. Should I staple that on or use the nails with the plastic round caps? Pete
Nice work hope you get her dryed in soon [cool]
If it were mine I would use the button nails. Yes staples are easier but they do not hold as well especially in the long term.
Speaking of which I am not sure what your time frame is about installing the metal roof. I assume it should be fairly close since you priced it out. If not you might consider Titaninum Felt instead of 15# or 30# felt for extended time also installed with button nails. IMO it is a good product that will last 12-18 months without a worry of blowing off or rain penetration.
Staples will likely pull through soon. Plastic button nails will deteriorate within about a year here - but lots of sun here. UV eats the plastic.
Lookin' good Pete. You got a lot done Saturday. No rain expected for next weekend at this point, and just a shower or two this week. Your "roof" should hold.
Thanks. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I hope I can get all the rafters up and the plywood on the roof next weekend. I might be able to stay till monday since thekids are off school.
Redoverfarm, where do you get the Titanium Felt? Is Titanium Felt the same as Permafelt??? I was hoping to get the roof on this fall so I could work on it this winter and use it. Pete
Nice looking beam work. They'll take on a lot of character over the years. I well remember putting in our DF 6x16 20' footers... that was lot of beef to get up in the air. :o
Thanks John. I thought they would look nice. I couldn't find any 4x12x20's that would span the distance since the lumber back here in the east is hemlock or white pine. The Amish do saw nice wood!!!! Pete
Most building/lumber yards have it. I am sure that Lowes or HD have it also.
Here is a link and what to look for.
http://www.interwrap.com/titanium/udl_30_main.html
Mine installed
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Peteh to find a dealer/distributor of the felt in your area just click closest to you. I think these are distributor so there are probably more available in retail sales. You could call them toll free to find a lumber yard that handles
http://interwrap.searchradius.com/locator.php
WOW.. that is amazing. Looks very nice. :)
I also went this weekend and bought lumber from a saw mill.
I got 4x8x10' for joists, 6x6x8' and 6x6x124.5'' for posts (one for the loft and 2 for the open ceiling part), and 3X 6x8x10' for beams. I will be seating the joist flushed to the face of the beam using iron angles.
However, I was scared when I saw the 6x8 :-[. The lumber guy helped me put them in my trailer, but when I got to the cottage, I could barely move them :(. I then realized that I am may be over my head of what I am capable of lifting (I am by myself) ??? I am contemplating the idea of replacing the 6x8x10 with one 4x8x10 and one 2x8x10 jointed together for the loft area (loft is 10 feet wide and 8 feet high). As for the open ceiling area (20 feet wide and 124.5 inches, i.e. sitting on the wall top), I think I will use two 4x8x10 for beams (it only serves as a connection between the 4x8x10 joists on each side of the beam), as well as 4x4x124.5 for posts, with having the 2 beams sitting each 2" on the middle post supported with iron angle. What do you guys think :-\
Sorry to hijack the post, but the big question that I have is, How did you manage to lift the 6X12X16 and How many guys did it take?
Sharbin
How about a temporary "A" frame and a rope block and tackle or come-along. Beams can be rolled on short pipes on a clean floor. Harbor Freight has small winches that will do it also. Or a boat winch. Be careful.
Sharbin, It was me, my dad, my brother and my brother in law. We set the center post and then we lifted the one side of the beam up into the wall and the other end was resting on the floor. We slid it out alittle past the end wall since the sheathing wasn't on that section yet. We then went to the end that goes on the post and lifted it up onto the post. We then did the same for the other side. Next we installed all the loft joists. Then went back and installed the last 2 posts. Any other questions just ask. Pete
Nice team work.
I found a material lift "Genie - SLC12" that can lift up to 12 feet and can lift up to 650 lbs:). I was squeezing my brain but did not think about it till Glenn talked about a type of lifts (thanks), then it hit me. I googled and found a local tools renting place "Simplex" that has this lift that can do the job. (http://www.simplex.ca/data/produits/images/484_BIG.jpg) http://www.simplex.ca/en/Products/Products.aspx?idCat=15&prodID=484.
If I was close I'd give you a hand. I know what its like to work alone and it is alwyas nice to have some help. Pete
Thanks Pete. That is very nice from you
Redoverfarm, I got a price from a local supplier for the Titanium Underlayment, $143 a roll which covers 1000 Sq feet or 10 squares. Considering that #30 felt is $25 a roll and I would need 5 rolls for $125. It sounds like I will be useing the Titanium Underlayment. Pete
A quick question. Should I use the ridge cap/vent for the metal roof or just use a cap and vent the gable ends. Does anyone have an opinion? Pete
Pete they make a perforrated seal for the ridge cap to act as a vent. Not sure how "cobra" vent would work under the ridge cap.
When I got the price for the metal roof it included the ridge cap with the vent. I'll probably just use what they have. Pete
Got alot done this weekend. My brother in law helped me on Saturday and Sunday and my Dad helped on Sunday and Monday. It was great to have alittle help. We got all the rafters up, the plywood on the roof, the gable end walls built and the gable over hangs half built. Almost dried in. Here are a couple pics. Pete
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Always nice to see something that wasn't there before. Something especially enjoyable about walking those boards on the attic joists.
Good job on the framing peteh.
Thanks. It went really well. Everything was square and that made it much easier. I was told when I started to make sure you start square and level and it will make things easier later. Pete
With what you've accomplished this weekend, getting it closed in for winter won't be any problem. That should be a big relief.
Ya. I'm excited. We got a lot done with just a 2 man crew on Saturday and a 3 man crew on Sunday Afternoon. Next I''m going to cover the roof with some Titanium Felt until I decided on a roof material. I know how to shingle but have never done a metal roof. Then I'll cover both gable end walls, wrap the camp in Typar, do the sofit and facia, and move the woodstove in so I can work on it this winter. Pete
Quote from: peteh2833 on October 14, 2008, 03:15:46 PM
I know how to shingle but have never done a metal roof.
One big difference I found is the lack of traction on a metal roof. :o Use lots of screws... sometimes that's the thing that's keeps your feet from sliding out from under you. ;D
Metal goes quick if you know what you're doing, or once you learn.
That was one of the things I was thinking about. With a 12/12 pitch it would be nice to have the snow slide right off but if I needed to get up there to do anything it would be more difficult. Pete
At least it won't be often - I like the steep roof.
With a 12/12 won't most snow slide off anything you put up there?
Also keep in mind that snow needs a place to land; preferably not on your head. ;D
Here is a post I had made previously about metal roofing. You might pick up on a few things that might prove worth while.
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=4810.msg59670#msg59670
Once you get the roof on you might as well forget about standing on it. With that pitch it is impossible. If you ever had to climb on the roof just buy a couple pairs of roof jacks and use one screw you already have in your roof for one hole and then add another screw for the other hole. Then once you have made your repair or for what ever reason you were up there replace both screws with new ones.
I think the semi-concealed are a patent by "Lifetite" as other metal distributors don't have them. You can google to them and find the dealer in Kenna,WV I am sure they will ship to you.
Another thing. If you haven't had a metal roof before forget about gutters UNLESS you use snow birds as the snow will tear them off without them.
Quote from: Redoverfarm on October 14, 2008, 08:35:11 PM
Another thing. If you haven't had a metal roof before forget about gutters UNLESS you use snow birds as the snow will tear them off without them.
Excellent point John! That's why our cabin will have no gutters. My neighbor put one on and found it in a tangle after the first winter.
I planned on No Gutters. To many leaves to glog them up and too much snow. Much better without. I have stone all the way around the camp so it will help.
Great job Pete. I envy you :-)
I finished my ceiling as well last weekend, and now is the roof's turn. However, I think I will be hiring someone to do it for me. :-(
What lumber did you use for the Rafters and ridge board?
Sharbin
The ridge board is 2 2x10x16's and the rafters are 2x8's. It wasn't too bad. We set the front ridge board and test fit our template rafter and then cut and installed the front 16 rafters. Then we set the back ridge board and cut and installed the back 16 rafters. It wasn't too bad. The harder part was lugging all the OSB onto the roof to sheeth it. I hope to be doing the roof here in the next 2 weeks and get it all dried in for winter. Thanks for the feedback Sharbin. You got any new pics of your place?? I'll keep you posted. Pete
I will be posting my progess shortly :).
When you said 2 2x10x16, did you mean that you used double lumber for the ridge board or you meant the first half and the second half of the ridge board?
Thanks,
Sharbin
Sorry, I used 1 2x10x16 for each end. Not doubled up lumber. Pete
Well, I'm heading up tonight instead of this weekend since it is going to rain here all weekend. I'm going to get the Titanium Felt on the roof and I'll try to get the Gable ends closed in so that it will be dried in for the rain this weekend. I'll take some pics and post them tomorrow. I have to come home tomorrow night since I have to work Friday. I was lucky to get tomorrow off. Next weekend will be finishing the sofit and facia and then shingling the roof. Pete
G/L on the weather
You're getting close but a little rain won't kill it. Looking good so far. [cool]
Thanks. I got the front finished and all the Titanium Felt on both sides. I was 1 piece short but I wasn't buying another roll of 250 feet for $145. Here are some pics of the progress.
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Pete not to sound critical but you have to remove the walk cleats you have nailed on the roof. The water will dam up behind and then run in through the nail holes. When you take them up just drive a button nail close to the hole so the button cover the cleat nail hole. Same hole won't work as the shank on them are smaller than 16d.
I did mine with cleats but started at the top and worked down slipping each course up under the previous. So I just kept moving the cleats down the sheeting to avoid leaks.
Makes you feel a sigh of relief knowing that it will shed water and not ruin now.
I thought of that after we left. I did the one side from the top down because we worked the one side up and over the top. I did what you said, tucking the next layer up under the previous. It will have to wait until next weekend. Hopefully it won't get too wet from the nail holes/cleats. Pete
Well I ordered my metal roofing and all the trim yesterday. It will be ready next weekend. So hopefully I will be putting it on in a few weeks. I also picked up the front door, 4 windows and some other small stuff but it still cost an arm and a leg. Oh well.....
See if you can make payment after the installation, Pete. Some of that stuff will be very hard to install with only one arm and one leg. [crz]
Are you going to connect the new cabin to the old one?
Glenn, that's a good one. ScottA, we will be leaving it seperate. We will be using the new camp and the old one will be storage or overflow when we have a large crowd up there. Thanks Pete
:)
I went up to camp on Thursday and got alot done. I got the OSB finished, the Typar on (I was short a roll), the front door on and 2 windows in. Now I can lock the place up !!!!!! I also went and picked up the metal roofing. Good thing I got it water tight since we had 10" of snow last week at camp. Here are some Pics. Also, can anyone tell me how the installed the ridge cap on their metal roof ? What I mean is after they got the panels on, how did you get to the ridge to install the cap??? Pete
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peteh most of the time it is just straddle the ridge sitting and work it to one end. If you have a tractor and a ladder you can lay it up the roof for access and to work from . Either way someone will have to be on the ladder to get started to get it positioned right on the end. It should just fit on the ridge. Just be carefull not to put too much weight at one place because it will bend.
You can use roof jacks also. Just use the screws that was in position for the roofing through the jacks. You can work the ridge from one side. When done throw away the screws and replace with new ones when you take the jacks off. I always take duck tape and tape the bottom of the jacks so it will not scratch the roof.
Thanks for the info Redoverfarm.
I have built temporary scaffolding (staging)to get a platform right below the eaves, one side attached to a wood block on the side of the house - the other to a leg making the handrail and going to the ground - about every 8 or 10 feet. You can do the whole side or just a section at a time to use less lumber. I generally use screw nails - maybe 5 per connection but long strong enough screws and or a couple small lags with holes pre-drilled used as needed could make it easy to move also.
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Put the platform on it then you could put a baseboard to keep the ladder from running away and tape a padded 2x4 to it to lay on the roof or sheeting. then you can work the sheets and the ridge cap.
Add safety railing and more boards and screws or nails onto the staging as needed - sketch is for illustration purposes only.
Sorry about the crappy sketch - did it iin a hurry in Paint.
Peteh with two set of jacks you could probably do what you want to do. Setting one set at one end 2-3' from the ridge (horzontal) and the other set at the other end the same. Then bridge between the two sets for the third section. I don't recall the exact length but with 2X8 on each end (maybe 10'-12')then double thickness (2X8)in the middle toe nailed to the roof jack boards at both ends. That would give you 36' more or less. You could adjust the length with the length of jack boards.
This is basickly how I did mine w/exception that I had to build a bridge/working platform to hold the stone and mortar. If you cannot use a ladder to lay against the roof you could install all from one end of the ridge with ladder access from one end by installing the roof jacks while sitting on the ridge and moving from one end to the other. A little more trouble but doable. With roof jacks I usually put two screws in each which would mean that you would have an extra screw in the roof at all the jack locations but would not be that noticable. The reason I say throw away the old screws is that once you use them for the jacks the gasket is trash and you want a new screw in their place.
If you go this route you would have no problem feeling comfortable and working with the ridge from them.
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Hi Pete,
you are moving really fast... very nice fine job.
I want to ask you by how much did you extend the gable ends (i.e. the Barge rafter) and by how much did you extend the rafters at the eaves?
Thanks
The gable ends are extended 12" at each end. The eaves are also 12" over hangs and I plumb cut them. I will be adding rough cut for the facia boards and then rough cut lumber for the sofit with channel vents. Any other ?'s just ask. Thanks for the compliments. Pete
Have a couple new questions.
1st ? If i'm going to leave the collar ties exposed and run my ceiling material all the way up to the rigde do i use the insulation baffles from the sofit all the way to the ridge? I will be using sofit channel vents and a ridge vent.
2nd ? Any suggestions on what type of nails or screws to use on the 2x6 TG loft flooring???
Thanks Pete
Pete anyplace you are going to use insulation in the ventilation area you will need baffles to prevent the insulation from closing off the air flow.
I used 3" deck screws on mine. One being I didn't have a finish nailers with long enough nail. Second is that most of the time the boards have to be pulled and drawn down and the nails will not hold. Just put them in at a 45 deg angle (for 4X8) to floor joist. If you are using lighter stuff you may have to adjust to 2 to 2-1/2" at a different angle
Ok, thanks. For 2x8 rafters can I use thinner insulation so it won't fill the whole rafter or should I use baffles all the way up? Pete
Pete the R-19 is 6-1/2", R- 21 I believe they make it in 5-1/2". So given the baffle thickness either would work but not give you what you actually need in the ceiling. It should be a R-30 which is 9-1/2" for a 2X10 rafter. You can increase the R-19 & R-21 by using rigid foam board and make your own air chase. By mailing 3/4" or 1" cleates to the roof side of the rafter on each side of the cavity and installing the rigid you will increase some 5-10R value depending on the type of foam you get. I had done this before and it works just as well. Time consuming vs. raft-R-mates but workable.
Irregardless of what thickness insulation you put you still need the baffles. I think I paid about $.48 a piece for 2'X4' sheet. If you have 16"OC you can seperate them to work in 16 OC rafters to give you 8 lin ft per sheet. It will compress your insulation by 1" but not real substantial.
Since your's is like mine I went with the R-19 as it will be seasonal and not lived in the year round in cold weather. It was a trade off on putting extra width rafters and insulation that I really couldn't justify.
And yes to the baffles all the way to the ridge. If you don't and push the insulation tight at or near the ridge it will close off your air flow. By pushing the baffles against the ridge the air once it reaches the ridge (sheeting cut out by 1" on each side) it will flow out. You need to remove that 1" or the ridge vent is useless. Make any sense.
Yes. I already left the OSB 1.5" short at the ridge for that purpose. I knew that I would need something all the way to the ridge. I used 2x8 rafters not 2x10. I'll check Home Depot today for the baffles. Thanks. I'm heading to camp this weekend. I'm going to try and get the sofit and facia done and get the wood stove installed. If there isn't to much snow I might even try to start the metal on the roof. Right now there is about 15" of snow on the ground. The rain should melt some of it today but they are supossed to get more. Pete
pete if it is very cold I would not put the metal on even if you can bare it. The roofing contractor that helped with mine said that he will not put it on if the temp is below 40F. Believe it or not that it does expand and contract just like the expansion joints at the bridge approaches. So if it is contracted and screwed down tight when it gets warm it will expand and may cause some small buckling. I think you put Titaninum on if so it will weather OK until you get a warm snap(hopefully).
I didn't work today as I took my son hunting on opening day. Started freezing rain so we are now hunting from the house. Did pretty good yesterday that way but the big one didn't or hasn't showed up. It was posted under "Twas the day before season" on CP site.
Good luck.
Thanks for the info. I'll hold off for some warmer weather. I did put Titanium Felt on. No leaks either. A guy I work with his dad has a farm down in Preston County WV and is down there hunting this week. I want to get the wood stove installed so I'll have to make some type of tempory flashing for the stove pipe where it comes through the roof. Thanks Pete
Pete if you are using tripple or double wall then a cheap shingle roof boot would probably work until you get your metal on and go for a regular metal roof boot. I'm not sure if I sent you a site for those or not but here is what I was talking about for temporary
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009SS0ZK?smid=ADFRQ5K4I2LNR&tag=nextag-tools-tier4-delta-20&linkCode=asn
Thanks. I have one that is very similar to that. I had a friend make it that owns a metal fabricating shop before I decided to do the metal roof. It was going to be for shingles. It is pretty big since he made it for the 12/12 pitch roof. Thanks for all the help. I'll take a picture of the metal boot that the metal roof company gave me. It is flexible on the bottom and you cut the center rubber to the correct pipe diameter. I'm using 2 sections of pipe made by metal-fab. Inner stainless pipe with a ring of insulation then an out stainless pipe. Pete
Went to camp for the start of deer season. No hunting though, just work on the camp. We had about 20" of snow. I got the front 2 windows in, got the wood stove installed, some insulation in and part of the loft floor done. The flashing around the stove pipe is temporary until I get the metal roof installed when it gets warm out. Here are some pics. Pete
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The last picture is through the back screen door looking at the snow!!!!!!
Thanks for the pictures. They have helped me understand the mechanics of the building better. I do have a couple of questions here.
1) Are the exterior walls the standard height as given in the plans?
2) Is it necessary for the columns in the center of the first floor for support of the floor above?
looks awesome, I've been thinking of doing a fireplace in mine next
care to share what you used for the below the stove and how expensive installing the chimney was? I was thinking the pipe vent had to be above the ridge for some reason but yours looks really good where it is.
Pete looks good. How is the T&G going. From the looks of the snow (more than us) and the lack of insulation you had better move the wood pile to the inside of the house. ;D. Seriously now that you have heat it will take the chill off while working to at least shed the coat inside.
I went to the cabin today and the inside temp was 30. By 12:00 it had risen to 50. Thats about 4 hrs. Now if I can keep the snow off the road to make it there I will be set. d*
Nice job on the decking... Looks like an early winter?
Yes it has been an early winter. We already have had 45" of snow this winter so far at camp. Redoverfarm, the T&G isn't bad. Not to hard. I'm pre-drilling the tongue and then using 3" screws. The camp did get warm enough to shed the coat while working. Sure beat the 20F outside and the wind. I've moved all work inside for the winter.
prohomesteader , I built a 2x6 frame with 3/4" plywood onto with 4 2x6's inside used as "joists". The stove weighs about 400-500 pounds. I also put the floor joists on 12" centers below the stove area. I then put cement board on top of the plywood. On top of that will eventualy be tile or some type of stone. The stove is fire brick lined on side and bottom and even with a roaring fire in it the floor was very cool. I will fire proof the wall later. It didn't cost too much because I had the 2 sections of insulated pipe, cap and storm collar. My friend made the flashing for me, no cost at all. The pipe has to be above the ridge is you are within 10 feet, vertical line. I am close to that but with the staight pipe and the insulated sections it drafts really well. The thing they worry about is cold air come off the ridge and down drafting down the chimney.
alcowboy, The walls are standard height to the plans. They are 10 feet. It isn't necessary for the posts and beam but I added them because of several reasons. 1. I have a steel beam running down the center of the camp. 2. I didn't want to use 20' floor joist to span the whole loft beacuse they weren't available in a strong enough wood from the mill. So instead I went with 4x8x10's on 32" centers supported by 2 6x12x15 beams which is supported by 6x6x8 posts. Any other ?'s just ask.
Pete
The rule of thumb for chimneys is that the chimney should extend at least 3' above the highest point where it passes through a roof, and at least 2' higher than any portion of a building within 10'. On steeply pitched roofs that will frequently necessitate a good chimney brace to keep the chimney in place. I believe once you have approx five feet of pipe exposed above the roof you should definitely have braces.
Looks nice Pete. How much snow do you get there in an average winter?
Thanks for the info. At camp between 75-100 on good years. When the lakes are very active we get dumped on. Pete
thanks for the info pete. 500lb stove? that was probably fun moving in ;)
It was. It took three of us and a few pieces of wood. Moved it alittle at a time. Pete
Well finally got up to camp this past weekend. Cold and snowy. 18F all weekend and 1 to 1.5 feet of new snow. Did a little work inside on the loft floor. I got half of it done. The rest of the time I enjoyed the snow with kids and wife. Did some snowmobiling. Nice weekend. Sorry, no new pics. Hope to get up there in 2 weeks to build the stairs and install the electrical service. Pete
All work and no play makes for a dull day. I'm sure it will be there when you get back.
Its coming out great! Nice job!
I really like the stove too. Should heat it nicely. ;D
Thanks Bishopknight. It does heat the place well and there isn't insulation in there yet.
I got alot done this weekend even though there was 2 feet of new snow. I did get alittle bit of snowmobiling in too. I got the electric hooked up. That was great. We ran conduit over from the existing camp to a new subpanel in the new one. I aslo got the upstairs ceiling insulated most of the way down. Also got the baffles in the rafters. Of course they went in before the insulation. I also got the stairs and the landing built. All in All a good weekend and alot accomplished. Next is finishing the loft floor, plumbing and wiring and start building the bathroom walls. Here is a couple pics. Pete
Also, the treads are temporary. I'm waiting for the treads to be made by the local amish saw mill. It has been too cold for him to saw he said so they should be done soon.
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Pete glad you had a productive weekend with all the delays before with the snow. BTW that auction at Washington should have some oak stair treads, rail and ballasters. They usually do.
Looking good Pete! :)
Do you have a leak in your roof eave? Wondering why there is ice on your siding like that. I like the color of your v-groove, what kind of finish? Looking good. In the photo looking down the stairs, it took me a minute to realize I was looking DOWN the stairs! Couldn't figure out why they went straight up to no opening in the second floor! It's been a long day.
Quote from: peteh2833 on December 02, 2008, 10:00:35 PM
Thanks for the info. At camp between 75-100 on good years. When the lakes are very active we get dumped on. Pete
Nice to hear from a fellow 'snowlover" I lived in Valdez Alaska for nine years. Average year there is 330 inches----our record was in 1989 when we enjoyed aa little over 550 inches----that's right---47 Feet of snow. The city of Valdez is the world champion of snow removal teams. After a 2-3' fall overnight, they routinely have all the streets and sidewalks cleared by 6:00 am----and NO berm in your driveway! It is a wonder to watch them at work.
That would be neat to see rwanders.
Jens, there might be a leak somewhere. I did not build the existing camp. I looked in the attic and didn't see anything. I don't know what the finish is because i didn't stain it. Sorry I couldn't answer your ?'s. Pete
Pete I think I am back on course now. This happens sometime when you are working on a big job. ;D.
Anyway I am not sure what your original design was as far as your ceiling /floor joist were. Beam or 2X with subfloor. Either way with laminate you will need subfloor. They had quite a variety of laminate at the auction to choose from. Prices are usually around $1-1.50 per sq. You might even find some regular hardwood at the price you would buy laminate for.
I have seen some tile laminate at their auctions before. Usually 3 tiles in a row to make one sheet. But generally you have to glue it rather than snap or you have to use the special grout (they usually have that too) like a acrylic caulk.
Not real sure but they usually have some auctions in OH as that is where they are based out of. Some may just be a short distance from Pittsburg. Might check the schedule dates on their site.
I used beams on the outside and a center steel beam. The joists are 2x10's and are sistered in the middle over the steel beam. Then there is 3/4 plywood for the subfloor. I was thinking of going to the Amish and see what he can make me. Pete
Pete sometimes that is about all you can do w/o heat. The next couple days will be above normal here and I plan on doing some things the cold has prevented me from doing. The last day was Friday w/ temp to high of 28F in the cabin. Not fun but had to get it ready for this week.
BTW I sent you a PM about the Washington auction which I thought was last Saturday but after I went to the one yesterday I noticed it was this Saturday. I ended up getting two doors and some caulking. I bid on a couple others things but was outbid. I set my limit and stuck to it. The next is here on April 4th & 5th
Pete this is out of sequence but I moved from the Alberta thread.
No problem. I messed that up !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Made it to camp on Sunday and Monday. Still lots of snow there. I got all the interior walls built and some wiring done. Was really cold and snowy. Hope to be back in a week or two to get more wiring and plumbing done. The back bathroom wall is wet because it had frost on in on the inside and when I got it warm inside from the woodstove it starting sweating. I'll make sure it is dry before I put the insulation in. The other non building pic is looking out the upstairs window looking out towards the back of my property. Any ?'s just ask. Pete
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Pete
Just a couple questions on your insulation.
Are you going to build an additional knee wall to where the insultion looks to have stopped or are you going to use the short knee wall. If you are going to use the short knee wall then the baffles need to extend into the soffit area past the top plate. You will also need to remove the blocked insulation you have stuffed over the top plate (probably temporary to prevent drafts). I am sure you have that figured out but inquiring minds wanted to know. ;D
It looks really good so far. Have you figured out what wall covering you are going to use?
I just stopped the insulation and baffles short because I don't have the sofit and facia done yet. I just blocked the ends with insulation to keep the cold air out now. In the spring when I put the metal on I'll do the sofit and facia and then finish the insulation and baffles. I'm going to use a mixture of drywall and 3/4 T&G on the walls. The end walls upstairs will be drywall as well as the divider wall. The rest upstairs will be T&G. Down stairs will be mostly drywall because there is already alot of wood and the floors will be wood and ceramic tile. Thanks. Pete
Pete..... I love the cabin, I am currently building a 18X26 on Toledo Bend lake in Central Louisiana, I have a few questions if you dont mind!
What thickness is the T&G boards your using in the upstairs? Is it solid enough with the 32" centers, I really like the look and would love to copy it!
Thanks in advance and keep the pictures coming
wed68, If you are talking about the T&G on the floor it is 2x6 T&G Pine. I think you can even go with a large span with the 2x6 T&G but I kept it at 32" OC. The loft floor upstairs is very solid and has no bounce or deflection. I will be using 3/4 T&G on the loft knee wall and ceiling. Any other ?'s just ask. Pete
Thanks for the quick reply, I may try to start my own build thread soon.
Where did you get the 2x6 T&G? Custom milled?
No, got it from the local Lumber Yard. Not Home Depot or Lowes but a local store that sells mostly lumber. Pete
I made it up to camp on Thursday and Friday last week. Here are some pics of the progress. I know it doesn't look like much but I got alot done. I finished the loft floor and we finished most of the wiring on the 1st floor and in the loft. I still have some wiring to do. I also started installing the PEX Tubing for the plumbing and got the hot water tank in.
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It's coming right along Pete. The wiring and plumbing take longer than what the finished results would indicate. Have you started the DWV piping? It's usually best to get those things in place before the wiring and the PEX as DWV doesn't bend as easily as the other.
I have most of the drain pipes ran under the camp. I did this before I put the subfloor down. I have no codes so I will be using Studer Valves as vents. Thanks Don. Pete
Pete I think I would re-think the vent stack. I have heard that they (Studer) are no subsitute for main lines only hard to service items away from the main works. It is really no problem with a vent stack and the metal roof. They make inexpensive boots to use for metal. And yes they do go bad. If you haven't run your DMV then I would consider a vent.
Redoverfarm, The only problem I have is that I have no common chase to the roof. The bathroom wall is right over a beem and there is no wall above it. The small camp I have now has no vents and works well. Do you think it will be a problem with no vents???
Might want to drop a PM to ScottA and run it past him as he is a plumber. Personally it was trouble for me as well but I worked through it. Mine was open beam and I dropped the ceiling in one area to take care of getting it to the roof. If you had something to look at I am sure he could give some good advice. With the Studor I was told they they can go bad and it needs air to draw. Therefore you can't put them in partitions that are sealed up. You wouldn't want to anyway to have access anyway.
Thanks. I'm going up on Thursday/Friday again and I'll try to map it out. Pete
There is a reason the Studer valves have threads for installation. They are designed for replacement when they fail.
Here's a link to the specification sheet for the Mini-Vent. (http://www.ipscorp.com/pdf/studor/StudorSpec_MiniVent.pdf) It is a PDF file.
The installation instructions state: "a minimum of one vent shall extend to the open atmosphere for every building drainage system." among other things.
FWIW, here's a really old thread on them
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=612.0 (http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=612.0)
Sorry guys but what is DWV piping??? ???
DWV = drain waste vent
Thanks for the info Don. Pete
Quote from: MountainDon on March 11, 2009, 01:26:37 PM
DWV = drain waste vent
That's one of those things that seems so obvious afterwards!!! d*
That's ok it's plumber lingo. You can't expect to know everything. d*
pete I recommend you try to get one vent out somewhere. The toilet vent is the one I'd pick. Also don't seal a studor vent up inside a wall.
I just finnished mine and they all go outside. It can be done but can take some creativity.
I might be able to get the toliet and bathroom sink vented out. Also maybe the shower and washer on another line. But the kitchen sink I won't be able to. Pete
Sounds like a plan Pete. I can't get my kitchen sink to outside either (Island) so Studor it is.
I made it up to camp on Thursday and Friday. Didn't get much work done. I cleaned up some outside since it was nice out and all the snow was gone. I haven't seen the ground since early November !!!! I built a small knee wall that is actually 36" high instead of a railing in the loft by the stairs to keep my young children from going over it an falling down the stairs. I also got some of the insulation in the walls. Also, I woke up Friday morning and was having a power problem. I called the power Company and they sent someone out after I left for home. They called on my way home to tell me that I had a bad Lug in the base for my meter and that I needed a new base for the meter. So they pulled the meter and disconnected the power at the weather head and stated that I could call when I had the new base installed and they would turn the power back on. Oh ya, and by the way there is a $50 reconnect few. Here are some Pics. Pete
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Nice work Pete. When you get it all buttoned up that stove will probably run you out of there. ;D
Yes it will and my wife will love it because she is always cold !!!!!!
Made it up to camp on Thursday and Friday. I got my new meter base installed and got the power back on. Of course it poured when I was working on it. I got some small stuff done like cleaning up the mess from several projects, finished some wiring, some more insulation installed and worked on the drain waste lines. The drain lines took awhile to do since all of the work was from under the camp on my back !!! I got the toliet installed and the bathroom vanity drain line installed. Only a couple more to go. Here are a few pics. Pete
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, is the toilet just temporarily installed?
I've always finished the walls right to the paint and flooring before mounting the toilet. Easier to work that way.
Do you mean Pete? Yes it is temporarily installed. That is so when we are sleeping at night and some one has to go, no one has to go outside !!!!!
Yes I mean Pete. I don't even know who I am at times; no wonder I can't keep track of who anyone else is. d*
That makes sense (the toilet).
I was up at camp with the Family on Thursday until Saturday. I got a few things done. Mostly just cleaning up, moving some things in and installing the rest of the windows except 1. We spent our first night in the new camp on Thursday. The wife and kids loved it. Here are a few pics. Pete
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Looking good Pete. Don't make it too confortable or you will never finish it. ;D
Quote from: Redoverfarm on April 12, 2009, 09:48:29 PM
Looking good Pete. Don't make it too confortable or you will never finish it. ;D
yep, that's true - but how nice to be able to enjoy it in comfort even when not completely finished! Looks good!
Questions about your water supply lines? I am interested in the PEX lines, but don't know anything about them. How easy are they to install? What is the difference between PEX and PVC?
PVC comes in 10 or 20 foot lengths. It is rigid, cannot bend around corners. You have to glue each fitting; that's slower and messier.
REX comes in 100 and 300 foot rolls, even longer. It is hard walled but flexible to a point. You need a special tool to crimp the fittings. No couplers needed to run a long line, unlike PVC.
PVC can not be used for hot water, for that you's use CPVC. PX is okay for hot. You can get PEX in white, blue and red. Very patriotic stuff. ;D You can use red for hot and blue for cold to assist in differentiating. Not a big deal in my book, but cool.
PEX installs much quicker. That's pretty much the main points.
peteh, I couldn't really make out too much detail in the picture, but be sure you put fire blocking in the stud space between the 1st and 2nd floors. It should be filled with 2x6 to prevent fire from rising up the wall. If it's there, good job. ;)
Pete I would highly recommend buying a roll of Rosin paper for the floor before you drywall the loft area. The dust is almost impossible to eliminate in the cracks of the T&G. At a cost of $13 for a 3'X500' it is a good investment and cuts down on the labor and the finished product. Ask me how I know this? :(
Pete good progress for a "weekend warrior". What are you going to do with the beams and ceiling? Stain or just seal?
Nice work indeed. The picture looks like you got one of them electric toilets... d*
Very nice indeed! I like the straightforward pex system too.
Looks real nice Pete. Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow ;D
Man, I like that red roof. [cool] Did you get a deal from the motel people (Redroof Inn)?
Can't wait to see what the siding looks like in contrast to the roof.
I am leaning towards a green metal roof, myself
The red roof rocks!!!
It does look really nice [cool]
Pete looking good. I take it the 2X material is just a heigth guide. Some of the older homes used a water ledge or board between the upper portion and the lower portion. Sort of like a 3/4" turned on it's side. They didn't last long with the weather. I hope that I posted concerning the marriage of the top portion and the bottom portion. There is a couple ways to do it. One way might be too late and that was to 45 deg bevel the top of the bottom with the peak toward the house. The upper ortion was beveled also except the peak of the bevel was away from the house. When water would run down it most likely will not travel up the 45 deg cut and continue running down. The other is to install a flashing against the house, turn it to cover the upper edge of the bottom course and then turn it down to cover the edge. One flange gets nailed to the sheeting of the house and you can use "grace" to cover that. Sort of like a modified "Z" design. If you knew the color of the siding you could probably pu some coil stock to closely match and it would not be as noticable.
Wow, really nice work.
looks very nice, love the look of the red roof against the cedar siding [cool]
Pete,
Did I miss it? Did you pull down the old camp?
(I'm up in Bear Lake, North of you)
Are you going to use drywall on the first floor walls? If you do I'd love to see pics of it where it meets the beams. I want to do the same thing on my house but with 20 footers instead of two 10's. I'm also thinking about a rough sawn exposed ledger holding up the beams.
nice project, awesome job on all the photos! just read the whole thread. [cool]
This build looks great, I am looking to buy property in Tionesta myself this summer (Pray deal doesn't fall through). How did your place turn out? It's been almost a year since your last post.
Quote from: peteh2833 on April 29, 2013, 08:29:23 PM
Well, been away from the forum for awhile. Still finishing the inside of the camp. Got all the tongue and groove 1x8 pine installed upstairs. Will post a picture when I can. Thanks Pete
I guess you are just following suit Pete. Seems it is a mad dash to get it dried in and then we tend to relax a little for the rest. Exception is that you immediately have to move in for a permanent residence. Camps and weekend getaways are not as demanding. Waiting for the pics.