Remodeling 100+ year old home -Project Bathroom

[inis]

Hello All,
I'm new to the forum, seen alot of other post and threads that related to stuff I'm doing around my house so figured I would join and ask a question to get some feedback.

I'm in a 100yr old home, midwestern 2 story house with a modern basement.  House was lifted sometime I estimate late 80's or early 90's and coble stone was removed, full basement was put in. Around the same time the previous owners paid some backyard shady mechanic with beer and did some remodeling to the house. Part of that was turning the walk-in attic into a master bedroom with two large closets and removing part of the roof for a single large dormer.

We are a expecting couple and my wife has tasked me into turning one of the closets into a bathroom so she doesn't have to go up/down the steep stairs for restroom breaks in the middle of the night. A year and half ago I remodeled a bedroom below the now bathroom. Took this room down to studs, left the newer dry wall ceiling (drywall over plasture), put some 3" shoots through some walls, ran new electrical, plumbing to this closet for future use and fire rated closed cell foam, fire-rock dry wall..so forth. Room turned out gorgeous.

Now back onto this closet. I can get pictures later if needed. The entire upstairs with exception of this closet some beer paid contractor took 2x2 wood stock and layed over the original attic tongue and groove floor, then plywood over that. Although it has worked for us, and ceilings below have survived there is some minor deflections due to large spans. House is build with true 2x4 oak walls and ceiling, basement joyces are 2x8 oak (I'm thinking red oak).

This new bathroom directly in the center north to south is a load bearing wall. Room will be around 8x8 with some gabling to ceiling. North to south (entrance at the south, window to the north ...east/west are the top plates that meet the roof rafters. To the west ceiling joist are 12.5ft to the east they around around 14'.

Due to ceiling height I've went with 2x6 for reinforcement. I've purchased 20 in total. Currently the room is 2x4 oak, 12" spacing overlapped on the load bearing wall.

Now into my question:

How would you reinforcement, some options which I think all would work but wanted some other opinions:

Option 1) double up the 2x6's each direction (east/west), however this will take away from room for plumbing and I will have to get creative

Option 2) Reinforce the top side of the 2x4 oak and adjust to height of the 2x6's and then also sister 2x6's to each side

Option 3) Reinforce the top side of the 2x4 oak and adjust to height of the 2x6's and then also sister 2x6's to each side with plywood sandwiched between.

My thought was behind option 2 or3  for a couple reasons:

I can sister top of each 2x4 and add an additional 2x6 the entire span of the house essentially making 3x 2x6's. I'll be using screw fasteners rated for weight (probably spax) to keep the hammering down due plasture still being in the front room directly below the eastern portion of the load bearing wall. I'll also some sort of structural bonding material when adding material to the top of the 2x4's.


Room will be tile floor, with walk-in tile shower.

I can get pictures if it helps explain the scenario.

[Don_P]

 
This might sound bad at first read, I'm not meaning it that way you're just up against some rock and a hard place stuff. This would take pictures and dimensioned drawings of everything from foundation to roof to really figure out, the word picture gets all muddled in translation. If you can get a good builder, engineer or architect to look it all over it might be better. The things you see in person mean a whole lot more than a few pics on the net.

A couple of things or thinking problems I think I'm seeing
I can pretty much guarantee tile will crack on what you are describing, sheet linoleum would be a better choice on an underframed floor. It is more forgiving of deflection and adds less load to undersized joists.

There really is no way to structurally stack framing members on site and bond them in such a way as to equal a deeper member. In other words stacking and bonding one 2x4 on top of another 2x4 doesn't make a 2x8 or anything close to it structurally. The best way to accomplish that is to remove the existing t&g and sister a deeper joist alongside of the existing 2x4 making certain that the new joist ends over load bearing walls that extend all the way down through the basement, in other words trace your continuous load path all the way to ground. Otherwise you are increasing load on some floor under you that wasn't designed to carry it and that will sag or break. I'm not in any of that saying a 2x8 or any other dimension is adequate, there isn't enough information to size anything yet, that was just some basic constructive or construction thinking.