Hello to all!
It seems like it's been a long road to get to this point and I haven't even driven the first nail yet. The first thing I'd like to do is say thank you to all of the members who've taken the time to post threads and share their project with all of us dreamers wanting to be doers. I first found this site about three years ago and submersed myself into ScottA's modified Victoria Cabin plan. After reading it over and over again I started reading other posts and kept gaining knowledge from this website.
I mentioned ScottA because he's literally the first thread I came to. He enthralled me with his details and craftmanship but I don't want to single him out. There are so many people on here who I'm grateful to for the knowledge they've passed along. Jdhen, great House! Beavers your 12x16 is simplicity plus! GlennK, MountainDon true inspirators. And John it goes without saying that none of us would be here without you. There are really too many folks to name. Thanks to you all.
OK now that my forward is done....after almost 20 years in the military, 10 of those spent dreaming about owning a piece of paradise and living a simpler existence, my wife and I have decided to buy 23 acres in a small town north of Crossville Tn. It has a really nice spring fed pond on it stocked with catfish, bass and brim. We've decided on a modified Victoria Cottage to build overlooking the pond. The property is laid out with approximately 10 acres in pasture and the remaining in a nice mixture of mature/maturing hardwoods and pine. There is electric run to the property to an old trailer site that happened to burn down and there is an old well with a well house that I don't know the condition of yet. There is city water that runs along the paved country road but if i had my preference i'd rather minimize my monthly bills and ties to utility companies. I plan to install solar electric eventially but will remain tied to the grid to possibly earn a little extra income from excess electricity produced. The home site I've selected for the Cottage has a ledge of shale less than 24" from the surface so my foundation should be very solid.
I plan on starting my build in Early November before it gets too cold. My plan is to go down to the property (currently stationed in the extremely crowded and traffic laden Washington DC metro area) and camp for 8 days to pour the footings for my post and beam foundation and possibly get the beams built and set in place and level so when I "retire" in late March we have a solid place to start the framing from.
I have pics of the property and will post them as soon as I can figure this photobucket thing out.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/CORNER2.jpg)
This will be the driveway onto the property.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/CORNER1.jpg)
A different angle of the driveway. You can barely see the pond back by the woodline.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/POND1.jpg)
The pond. The home site will be to the right hand side of the pond. The driveway would be almost in direct view of this picture if the knoll wasn't there.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/POND3.jpg)
Another pond shot. The homesite is located in back of me and to the left a bit. Notice the rock ledge in the pic, this should make a nice solid foundation.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/PASTURE1.jpg)
My dad while we were walking the property.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/POND2.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/POND4.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/SEPTICSITE3.jpg)
Welcome. Thanks for your service to our country.
The property looks great. I look forward to watching your progress.
My inlaws live in seveirville, I'll have to look at a map to find out where that city is.
Oh, and congratulations on your upcoming retirement!
Beautiful property!
Good luck with the build. Stick to tried and true methods, and you will find all the help you need here to make it a success!
awsome pond - I can see you enjoying that in the future
as a note some shales are expancive - check what you have before designing your foundation
Nice property. Wife and I are talking about getting property over that way. We are in the mountains of NC and love it here but like everywhere else......no work. Eventually we will build but right now.......we can only dream. Anyways.......cant wait to see the progress of the build.
Nice looking place. Do think about the shallowness of the soil when thinking about bracing the piers. There isn't enough soil sitting on top of the ledge to provide any rack resistance to the posts to resist the wind pushing on the walls above.
All, Thanks for the greetings!
UK4x4 - I call the rock shale because that's what my dad called it but the soil scientist who did my perc test called it bedrock in the paperwork. With an aviation background all I know about geology comes from the discovery channel and the few things i've read about plate tectonics. I did a google search of "expansive shale" and all that came up was a Portugese hip hop band that i've never heard of. I'm assuming that what you meant was that it may be susceptible to frost heave like soil is? The Victoria Cottage plans came with an information packet giving basic info about soil types and according to that a rock base is excellent due to it not holding water. I know that some rock is porous and does hold a certain amount of water but is frost heave normally an issue?
If anyone has any info about the type of bedrock normally found in Fentress county TN it would be much appreciated.
Don_P - actually the shallowness of the soil was a concern of mine also and to be honest I won't have any idea of how deep the bedrock is where i'll dig for each specific pier until I actually auger into the soil. I'm hoping that it is right at 2 feet like the perc paperwork says but I know there'll be some deviation from that. My plan to solidify the piers and keep any shifting to a minimum is to:
dig a 24 inch diameter hole to the bedrock for each pier. Drill 2 holes into the rock about 8 inches or so. I'll epoxy two 1/2" lengths of rebar into the holes i've drilled and leave it to length to cut later. I plan on pouring concrete directly onto the bedrock and allowing it to self level and set then thread 8" square cinder blocks over the rebar, mortar them together and then fill in with more concrete. I'd make sure the top cinderblocks are level by using a water level during the concrete pour.
One question though.....do I need stone under the concrete for drainage?
Any ideas to make the process easier or if anyone has any ideas please shout. Thanks in advance.
"I did a google search of "expansive shale" and all that came up was a Portugese hip hop band that i've never heard of. I'm assuming that what you meant was that it may be susceptible to frost heave like soil is?"
yes it would be- basicly there's a few types of shale- some impermiable- some that swell with water so can frost heave when they are saturated
Google expansive shale oilfieldor road building
If you look a shale layers in a road side cutting for example - usually there are thousands of cracks and piles of shale on the floor- where they contract and expand with the weather - to the point of simply droping out of the wall, while other layers stay intact
There are technical terms for each type- but I'm no geologist -I just know from drilling oilwells
and how I got to spend the millenium sat on an oilrig in the North sea because of expansive shale was stopping us running the completion in the well
while the rest of the planet was at a party !
Then I got a good trip to CO and worked on the oil shales in western co - many a chimney fire was caused by this particular shale in the past !
,
That is going to be a nice site, cant wait to see the progress. Beautiful pond btw!
Lovely property - the pond is really nice - looks like you found a great piece of land! My dad was in the Air Force for 30yrs - B52 instructor pilot for many years. Thanks for your service! I worked at a VA hospital for 21 yrs, just retired the end of July.
The Victoria Cottage is a really nice plan - there's been several who have built that here on the forum. John has some good plans that can be adapted to your needs & wants.
Looking forward to your build!
YANKEEREDNECK - NC Mountains are beautiful also. I'm not sure what the work situation would be here, it seems like the whole country is in a crunch right now unfortunately. Thankfully we've been able to put a few dollars away to be able to put our place up before we have to start looking.
UK4X4 - Thank you for the heads up. It sounds like you have plenty of experience with rock hounding. I will definitely have to take a sample of what I have to someone more experienced when I get down to the property in November.
Jbiehl/Sassy - We are definitely excited to get down to our place and start the build. I can't wait to make the vision a reality. The pond was a real good find. We looked at over 20 properties this summer all over TN and every one that had a pond on it was either dry or the water looked really mucky, rightly so after a 40 day drought I suppose. This pond was very clean and seemed really healthy though, obviously there's a decent spring feeding it otherwise it would be low.
Sassy - Congrats on YOUR recent retirement! I'm not sure whether it's harder being military or a government servant like you were. They both have their merits I suppose. My positive is that I've travelled all over the world, I've seen a lot.....actually seen the Pyramids over 10 times.....every time from over 20,000 feet though. I'm over in that area now actually and luckily am scheduled to be home in about a week. In my offtime, which I've had a lot of recently i've managed to plan and replan my piers and foundation what seems to be 15 times!
Here's a rough sketch that I think may be what some of us would call the "final plan" of my piers. Hopefully the quality is ok.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/FOUNDATIONPIER.jpg)
Also here is a floorplan of the main floor. The kitchen bumpout is facing South and looks to the pond.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/FIRSTFLOOR.jpg)
And here's the loft floorplan. I kind of copied Scott Lemay's idea on his Michigan 16x26 and added a touch of personalization.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/SECONDFLOOR.jpg)
If you have bedrock that you're digging down to, I don't understand the gravel layer at the hole bottom with concrete poured on top. ??? Why not just concrete right on the bedrock? I don't think you need drainage if you have solid rock available at the hole bottom.
Also if you can angle the drilled holes some they will provide better uplift resistance.
My 2 cents...
I wasn't sure about the gravel to be honest. You actually answered one of my uncertanties. Now I have a new final plan!
I've read about angling the holes also and I'll see if I can make that happen while i'm drilling. Should be interesting as to how i'll be able to get that done. Thanks Don.
This might be some help with the soils and maybe what's underlying;
http://websoilsurvey.nrcs.usda.gov/app/HomePage.htm
If you build corners maybe running about 4' out of each corner, pinned to the rock it would help stabilize things.
Navy,
Your site is beautiful! Just a thought for you.....How about use one rebar, and one "all-thread" epoxied into the holes in the rock. You could then use the "all-thread" as an anchor bolt for the above structure.
Tim
Quote from: NavyDave on October 10, 2011, 11:54:51 AM
I wasn't sure about the gravel to be honest. You actually answered one of my uncertanties. Now I have a new final plan!
I've read about angling the holes also and I'll see if I can make that happen while i'm drilling. Should be interesting as to how i'll be able to get that done. Thanks Don.
If you have solid rock or bed rock it is not going to frost heave. You can anchor rebar, thread all, cable and ect. with molton sulfer. That has been done for years and certainly stands the test of time.
The progress begins! I spent all day yesterday pulling my 10 foot trailer filled with my tools from Wash. DC to the site in TN. My parents met me here and today Dad and I spent all day long clearing/preparing the site, building batter boards and figuring out where each of the 25 piers will be situated. We are pretty happy with the progress so far.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Firstday5.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Firstday4.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Firstday11.jpg)
Tomorrow we'll be augering all of the holes and figuring out exactly how much topsoil is above the bedrock. I'll be renting a rock drill to drill 3 holes into the bedrock about 12 inches. I'm going to try to angle my holes for my rebar as much as possible to help with uplift resistance.
Looking forward to following your build (I built a Victoria's also). Best of luck! :D
Jeff, I read through your entire build and you do great work. I just hope mine turns out with similar character. Long hard day today. I augered 25 holes down to the bedrock and widened the holes to about 14 inches in diameter and cleaned them so the bedrock was bare. Tomorrow dad and I are drilling and mortaring in the rebar.
I got some dissapointing news from my septic guy today though. Since we have bedrock so close to the surface he'll have to blast to set the septic tank. This is something that we knew but what was suprising to us was that the septic permit wasn't complete and wouldn't be for another couple of weeks. We were planning on him blasting early this week and then pouring concrete for our piers but since he won't be able to blast until the permit process is complete I won't be able to actually pour until spring. I'll get all of the site made beams built though so it won't set me back too far. Hopefully!
Do you have to blast just for the septic tank or the whole drain field? How deep is the rock?
We'll have to blast just for the tank. No blasting for the drain field. Where the tank will be the rock depth ranges from an extremely shallow 3 inches under the soil to 30 inches. The drain field goes down an avereage of about 30 inches.
I'm back in DC now and the week was a very busy one. We made almost as much progress as planned except for not being able to por the piers because of the septic situation. We got a lot cleared on the site and were able to get all of our holes drilled in the rock and the rebar cemented in. We also were able to build all of the beams. Lots of nails in those beams! I can't wait to get down there full time in March. We made good friends with the neighbors and made some good contacts in the small country town. Can't wait to start our new life in the country!
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/IMG_0644.jpg)
augered and rebarred holes
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/IMG_0608.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/IMG_0604.jpg)
Temporary electric service
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/IMG_0609.jpg)
Building the beams
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/IMG_0616.jpg)
Lots of nails!
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/IMG_0619.jpg)
Finished beams
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/IMG_0658.jpg)
Breaktime for dad
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/IMG_0644.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/IMG_0640.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/IMG_0596.jpg)
Bonus of the week! we found what we think is a natural gas well on the property! we still need to have the pressure tested to see what the output is but this may be a real find.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/IMG_0597.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/IMG_0592.jpg)
I'm not 100% sure what this is?? It's a couple hundred yards from what I think is the gas well. It's in the woods and not by any structure. Any ideas?
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/IMG_0620.jpg)
Beams all covered for winter. Be back in March!
Check your deed and the county tax office for an easement. I'd have Miss Utility come out and flag the line... and don't blast till you straighten this out.
I'm not 100% sure what this is?? It's a couple hundred yards from what I think is the gas well. It's in the woods and not by any structure. Any ideas?
Looks like a cut off valve, perhaps for the lp.
Do you own the mineral rights to your property?
Yep all mineral rights conveyed wuith the property.
that valve looks a lot like a feed line at a friends house from his gas well, looks like that might be a gas flow metering device (pressure reducing device) to feed a structure on the property.
Well I just got back from our land where i spent the last 4 days clearing a spot for our temporary home while we build. A friend of mine has an RV that's taking up space in his driveway and we worked out a deal to pull it to the land and "store" it there. Couldn't have worked out any better!
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/RV1.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/RV15.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/RV9.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/LIBRARYADDITIONSOUTHWEST.jpg)
This is a rendering of my modified Victoria Cottage that i've been working on most of the winter. The room addition with the chimney attached will come in the future. It will be a sitting room/library with a small basement to be used as a storm shelter/root cellar.
We will be heading out of DC at the end of the month and will be in the thick of the build full time until it's completed. Very excited!
OK we are living on our property full time now and it's been a VERY busy week going back and forth to the storage facility and dealing with material deliveries. I've decided that I would be able to save quite a bit of time if I had a place to store and organize my tools so my first project before I start full time on the house is to build a 12 X 16 garden shed. I'm figuring on a full 10 days for this project depending on weather. I started a new thread for the shed. You can see it at:
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=12047.0
We worked the last couple of days on the foundation footers. We have them all poured and have 2 piers completed also. So far the job has taken about 60 bags of concrete.....those things are heavy, I swear they must weigh about 80 pounds each! :)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/footers3.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/footers1.jpg)
Well my 10 day shed project turned into a full 6 week ordeal but we have it weather tight and almost completed. Just have to finish the siding on the gambrel ends and stain it. We just got back from a 10 day visit with my daughter and have about 10 days to ourselves before the next trip to make some progress on the house. I figured some foundation work was in order. Here are a couple pics of the completed quickrete tubes. I have all of the piers completed that will support the 6X12 beams (15 total) and have 7 more to pour for the 6x8 beams. Why didn't somebody warn me that concrete days weren't much fun! Honestly I'm very happy with what's been completed with 2 days work and am amazed at the accuracy of a 3 dollar water level!
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/pillars7.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/pillars3.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/pillars5.jpg)
Finished up the piers today. I only have the 3 on the ends of the house where the double floor joists will run to go but I'm waiting until I start framing the floor to pour those.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/pillars8.jpg)
I plan on cutting shims out of pressure treated 6X6's to make sure the beams are level if the concrete settles a bit. The piers are suprisingly accurate though. I'd say the worst one is off by only 1/8 of an inch (By no means the water levels fault!)
Nice work! Can't wait to see this project progress.
Thanks Jeff, I'm hoping for mine to look at least half as good as yours does!
I got the main 28 foot beam on the north side of the house hung today and the two 16 footers on the bedroom addition also. I used my ladder and a 1 ton block and tackle to raise the beams into position. It worked pretty well.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/beamhoist.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/beams2.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/beams1.jpg)
I'm all finished hanging the beams now. The 8 inch ones I did today on the South side of the house facing the pond were much easier than the beefier 12 inchers that are on the North side. We'll be leaving for another 10 day trip on Friday so progress will have to wait. My body needs a rest from lifting the 80 LB bags and lugging those beams though. Excited to start framing the floor when we return!
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/finishedbeams1.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/finishedbeams3.jpg)
Nice progress. d*
Are you working by yourself?
For the most part it's just been me. My father helped a lot with the land clearing and laying out the footers back in November though. Things are getting done bit by bit and it's only costing me calories. I'm getting in really good shape with all of this lifting. All in all even though i'm a bit behind schedule I'm very pleased with my progress and the rewards I can see at the end of each day's work.
It is always great to get out of the dirt and done with concrete. The framing is the most fun part!
It feels great to be done with the dirty work. All I need to do is make sure the foundation is perfectly level before moving onto the next phase. I look forward to framing the floor and deck though. The foundation took so long to get right and it was getting hard to move forward without seeing much progress after working so hard every day. At least with the framing I'll be able to see things happening alot quicker!
concrete work sucks, i learned that lesson this weekend.
those are some tall piers. how are you going to run the bracing? i kept mine no more then 18" out of the ground. most are a foot out. i didnt want to have to do all the bracing and.couldnt really figure.out a great way to do it with concrete piers.
CJAJ
My piers are attached directly to the bedrock. After digging down an average of about 20 inches I hit bedrock. I rented a rock drill and drilled holes at an angle approximately 12 inches into the rock and used portland cement to anchor a piece of 1/2 inch rebar to the rock. Prior to pouring my piers I bent the rebar into an L shape at the top to increase uplift resistance. Then I used 18" threaded rod at the top that I bent like an L shaped anchor bolt which will be used to anchor my beams to the piers.
I'll be using hurricane ties to attach my floor joists and deck joists to the beams which will tie the entire structure together. I'll have a wrap around deck on my Victoria which will provide for a square footprint of 36X45 feet total. With the larger footprint coupled with each pier anchored to the bedrock and each layer of the structure firmly connected to the next layer racking will be reduced.
I was concerned with bracing the taller piers and researched the quickrete forms and found this quickrete form data sheet http://www.quikrete.com/PDFs/DATA_SHEET-QUIK-TUBE%206922.pdf There is a blurb in the data that states there should be "additional support" if the piers are more than 24" above the ground. I wanted to be clear how to reinforce/support my taller piers so I called and talked to a product engineer and was told that the additional support is meant to ensure the forms remain level and plumb during the pour. I was also told that when using the longer special order tubes (10 feet and longer) that there should be bracing at the bottom of the tubes to prevent the more fluid wet concrete from busting out the bottom of the tube. I didn't know they could be special ordered in specific sizes.
Well we are back from our last trip and have spent the last week trying to get the grass and poison ivy mowed/sprayed. I have a nice rash on my arms and legs to show for it but finally got the property where I needed it to feel comfortable to get back to the build. I managed to get my floor joist perimeter framed and the bedroom addition joists hung. I rented a rotary lazer level to make sure the perimeter was spot on before hanging the joists and my water level proved to be perfectly level except for one pier on the corner of the bedroom addition. It costs 65 bucks to rent the lazer level but the look of the lazer dancing on the top of my perimeter after the sun was down made it worth the money.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/floorframe2.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/floorframe1.jpg)
Most of today was eaten up by making sure the perimeter joists were perfectly square followed by attaching all of the metal attaching hardware required to hold the frame and joists in place. I also got most of the floor joists framed up to the point where my center concrete pier is situated that will stiffen a double floor joist.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/floorframeconnectors.jpg)
I used simpson bracket LUS210Z for the 2X10 floor joist hangars. To attach the floor perimeter to the beams I used 30 angle brackets made by simpson also A23Z. I screwed 4 2 inch exterior screws to the beams as anchors and used 1 1/2 inch #10 galvanized nails into the perimeter joists. The beams are held down by home made anchor bolts mounted to each concrete pier.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/floorframe5.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/floorframe3.jpg)
Looking great so far. except...
not to be nit picky but it appears your angle bracket screws to the beam are not simpson approved, additionally they are screwed into the edge of the plywood layer in your beam. I would rethink the fasteners and their location. I would be best to use simpson approved fasteners as normal screws will sheer off easily. As far as the fasteners being in the plywood, I would reccomend trying to get them into the 2x's that have far more holding strength.
rdzone,
I agree that the screws in the plywood don't offer the best protection. On the particular beam that is in the picture the 6 brackets fell right over the plywood as shown. The remaining 24 brackets look like this:
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/anglebracket1.jpg)
My thought when using screws on the bottom portion of the angle brackets was to eliminate/reduce uplift. Simpson recommends using the 1 1/2" galvanized nails that I used on the sides of the angle brackets but I don't believe a nail that's 1 1/2 inches long can reduce uplift much at all. My thinking was that the threads on the exterior screws would provide much better resistance to upward force. I do have some 3 inch long nails that I could have used but felt the threads provided better protection still. With that said I'm probably going to add 6 additional larger angle brackets on the beam where the screws go into the plywood to ensure they are fastened to the solid part of the beam like the rest of the brackets. That will be 36 angle brackets and 144 screws total holding the joists to the beams to eliminate uplift and shearing.
ring shank nails provide as much grip as a screw and wont snap off like a screw. screws are brittle and are not very good in sheer load. i like to mix them 50/50 but they should be used as directed if you have anyone inspecting.
Glad to hear that all of the bracket screws are not in the plywood. I am still concerned about your screws. I live in earthquake country and the inspectors would not pass the screws. One good shaker and all of those screws would sheer right off. If you must have screws Simpson makes screws that are rated to go with their bracket and I believe they make longer nails as well.
Just my two cents. I do think you are doing a great job and look forward to the rest of your build.
rdzone,
I was on Simpson's website last night and did see that they have several different types of screws to choose from. When you mention earthquakes it makes me go hmmmmm....I had high winds in mind (sustained force) when using those screws, I didn't even think about shaking (pulsating force). Are you (or is anyone else) aware of a fastener that would have the same rating in shear strength as the #10 galvanized 1 1/2 inch nails that Simpson reccomends for the A23Z bracket but with an increase in uplift resistance? Probably will give Simpson a call on monday but experience and knowledge of others is always appreciated. Thanks!
This might help.
http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/nails.asp (http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/nails.asp)
rdzone,
Thanks, that link led me to a page that shows quite a few different connectors. I'm gonna talk to a Simpson rep on Monday about using their SD screw #10 2 1/2 incher.
I woke up this morning thinking that today would be an off day because of the heat but something made me get to work and I got my last 4 concrete piers poured and finished the floor framing. There are 2 floor joists that are bowed that I don't like so i'm gonna rip those out and rework them. Once those 2 joists are fixed and I replace the screws in my angle brackets the floor framing will be finished. I'll be moving on to the framing of my wrap around deck next. I figure this will give me a nice stable place to work while the walls and roof go up.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/hundreddegrees.jpg)
I don't recommend concrete work when the thermometer looks like this!
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/finishedjoists2.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/finishedjoists1.jpg)
thats funny. my last day of concrete i also had four to pour and it was 105. the day before we did 8 and it was a cool 95. and we hand mixed it all.in wheel barrows
CjAl,
You're a brave man hand mixing. I've done that and it isn't much fun......at least with the heat the pores stay clear d* My dad actually talked me into the cement mixer before we started our build and it's proven to be the best investment yet. I am glad that the concrete work is almost done though.....once my deck posts are finished i'm putting the mixer away for awhile!
i dont have power out there yet. i run a 2500watt invertor of my semi truck for power and i didnt think a mixer would work on it. 15 piers four foot deep and a 18" square8-10" thick footing, all by hand. i think it was. 50 or 60 bags.
i am lucky i have a strong wife who is not afraid of work. she mixed one bag and i mixed the next. wasnt too bad except the heat.
Well we've finally got our share of rain around here so I've had to take a little time off from building and deal with garden weeds and yard work. It's amazing how fast a garden gets out of control when you don't give it the attention it deserves. I've started to mulch with grass clippings though and i'm hoping that will pay dividends in the form of water retention and weed suppression though.
Anyway now that I am back building i'm working on the wrap around deck to give me a level place to work from during the rest of the build. I've spent the last 2 days building the square 16x16 bedroom addition deck frame. The joists are 2x10s given the 16 foot span and the decking will be 2x6s. The posts are 6x6s that run through the deck and will serve as railing posts also. I was originally going to try to make rustic posts out of a stand of pine that needs to be thinned on the property but saw a nice design at a menonite barn builder's place using 4x4 railings. That's where i'm leaning now.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/flashing1.jpg)
Ledger board is resting on the house beam and lag bolted every 20 inches. Bending the flashing was interesting!
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/lagbolts1.jpg)
Lag bolts on side ledger.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/bottomofpost.jpg)
The bedrock was pretty shallow where I dug (approximately 12") so I pounded 12 - 3" #10 nails to the bottom of each 6x6 to aid in uplift resistance. 2 80lb bags in each hole.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/hoist1.jpg)
used my ladder and block and tackle to hold the frame level and the post approximately 2" from the bedrock while the concrete set overnight.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/postnotches.jpg)
all 6x6s will be notched to accomodate the 2x10 band joists.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/flashing2.jpg)
finished flashing
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/deckframe1.jpg)
Decking will hopefully be completed tomorrow.
It took me about half a day longer to deck the first deck than planned. Not bad considering that everything else has taken twice as long as planned. d*Decking for the 16x16 bedroom deck complete.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/deckcompleted1.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/deckcompleted2.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/deckboardspacing.jpg)
I wanted a space between my flashing and the edge of my boards to give water a channel to flow so I used a 7/16" piece of OSB as a spacer. I used my carpenter's square as a spacer for the boards 1/8" (all were still quite wet so they'll shrink a bit more) and used the wedge shown to take the bow out of the boards when I tapped it, all were fairly straight though.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/flashing3.jpg)
spent 3 bucks on a tube of flashing adhesive/caulk and sealed up the ends
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/flashing4.jpg)
Going has been a little slow on my project this month. My 4 year old daughter visited and I spent considerable time getting ready for her by pulling poison ivy vines out of trees and spraying every one of those evil little plants I could find. Took several days to clean the property to minimize the bugs also.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Emilydeck.jpg)
She's worth all the hard work, she can't wait to see her new bedroom in the loft.
Anyway now that I'm able to get a little work done I've started on my L shaped deck that will wrap around the house. I originally figured it would take me 6 or 7 days to complete it but I'm 5 days into the project and am probably half way done. The way I look at it if things take me less than twice the time I originally plan I'm doing pretty good. This deck is a bit more complicated than my simple 16X16 on the back and I've had to rework a few things to get them right. I'm not cutting any corners though and think I'm doing a pretty good job all in all.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Ldeck1.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Ldeck4.jpg)
The deck design makes the footprint of the structure exactly 36x44.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Ldeck7.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Ldeck5.jpg)
Will have a pretty nice view from the covered front porch.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Ldeck9.jpg)
Some of these 6X6's have been taking almost an hour to put shoulder notches in d*
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Ldeck8.jpg)
On the home stretch with my 6X6 posts!
I'm enjoying watching your build in TN. Your daughter is cute too! Lived near Knoxville for several years while I went to college. We built our house in Florida and are now remodeling a home in San Antonio. My husband and I have decided that whatever amount of time we think it will take-just double it! (or so...) ;D
Cathy
Cathy
We are about an hour outside of Knoxville, in fact my wife works there. She went to school at UT and we both really enjoy the higher elevation here. As far as the time goes all I can say is UUUUGH....lol....I figure the way I've been working it's taking me about 30% longer to do everything than I expected. No complaints though, we have a comfy place to lay our heads at night and the work is very fulfilling to me. I've gutted and remodeled a home in the past as well and will say that hands down I enjoy starting from scratch much better.
My cement work for this house is finally DONE and I'm finally out of the dirt for good! 39 bags for the 14 deck posts all poured in one very tiring day. I'm please with how this deck turned/is turning out. It's a bit more complicated that I'd anticipated but I worked (and reworked) through it and i'm finally on to the decking part. I was able to get through almost half of the decking so far. I'll get most of the rest done tomorrow but will have to order 18 more 2x6's to totally finish. Looking forward to getting onto the next phase of insulating and sheathing the floor then framing the walls.
Question for some of the experienced guys out there......I'm considering using Zip system sheathing for the roof. It's a bit more expensive at 21 bucks a sheet so I'm wondering if there's any experience with using it? I haven't seen any on this site use it so there may be issues?? Any info will help, thanks.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Ldeck11.jpg)
The side that is decked is the South side of the house that faces our pond.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Ldeck12.jpg)
East side.
Nice, this is going to be sweet. Looking forward to seeing how a wraparound looks on the victoria.
NavyDave,
just an fyi this build may be small but used the zip system.
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=9422.0 (http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=9422.0)
Mike, The wrap around has taken almost 3 weeks to complete but I think will be worth it in the long run.
rdzone, Thanks for bringing that link to my attention. I remember browsing at that one awhile back but didn't remember that they used the Zip system. I'll have to dig through it when I get a little time to see if I can pick some info out of it.
Well today I was hoping to make it through my remaining decking boards but some of the cuts around the posts took a bit to get just right. I worked all day and have 8 - 16 footers left to work through. I figured it was time to stop after I cut a piece of decking over a foot short! d*
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Ldeck13.jpg)
I have about an 8x18 piece of deck left before i'm onto the next phase.
NavyDave - regarding the Zip system for sheathing. We used it in Vermont for a couple of reasons. I knew it'd be at least a year before I'd get siding on the place (it's been 15 months-- so far). The sheathing stands up to the weather very well. Looking at the cost, it's really only marginally more expensive than using CDX plywood (I'm not a fan of chip-board) combined with house wrap. Plus, I didn't want Tyvek/Typar/what-have-you flapping in the wind all that time. I had used it when siding the addition to my house in Mass., and found it difficult to deal with, especially without help to install it. There are other plusses too. The boards are all printed with dots every 16 inches, at a recommended nailing distance apart. It's like paint by number. With an inexperienced crew, it's ideal. That said, I didn't use it for my porch roof for other reasons -- I was putting down 1/4" beadboad-like plywood first, and was content to put 1/2" CDX on top of that, rather than the 3/4 zip roof sheathing.
You've obviously put a lot of thought into your place. I'm looking forward to seeing it evolve. Very nice!
Dave good looking (sturdy) foundation.
Smart thinking on doing the deck before walls to work on!! Tripping over a ditch and uneven ground for the whole build is half the fun!
Rich2Vermont, Thanks for the info and the compliment. I may have a few more questions for you about the zip system soon. I'm trying to weigh the benefits of cost and time (both instalation and time of weather exposure) from what I know about it so far It really isn't much more expensive at all if all factors are considered. I'm going to work up a material list for using foth the zip system and also one for using OSB with felt paper along with a pro and con list soon. I'll post it for others to see also. I haven't even considered using the Zip system for my wall sheathing but may put a material list together for that as well. probably will go with regular 7/16th OSB and a weather barrier (leaning toward felt) for that though. Thanks again!
Red, I'm definitely happy with my results. Thanks for the kudos! There is one benefit of my sloping property that I realized today. The whole time I was building my deck I didn't know that I was building a motorcycle and equipment shed also. The tallest pier is about 5 feet off the ground and is the perfect height to park some equipment under (although it may be better suited for the neighbors' 12 dogs to lay under). I'm anticipating being the envy of this little country town very soon :) This won't be permanent though, eventually i'll have a garage and a barn/equipment shed and my deck will have a nice critter proof enclosure.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Ldeckgarage.jpg)
Dave, your project is comming together so nicely. You spend great time on detail and I truly appreciate all the pictures. As you know I will follow soon with my build. I am close to getting the block foundation started so I can come up out of the ground. My shed deck is done now I just need to put the walls up. I like the deck/porch on your Victoria, I may have to consider the same. Are you going to put any decking off the living room (I think the "back" of your house) that will wrap the entire house? I guess everyone here knows or will soon learn that most projects take longer than calculated, mine sure has. Keep up the great work!
Highland,
Thanks for the positive feedback. I'm trying to document my progress well for a couple of reasons. First so family and friends can follow along closely.My dad (who is in Florida) and I talk over details almost daily. Second, so folks who haven't done this before, even the simple stuff, can learn from my journey. I'm by no means an expert but close documentation allows the experts to chime in if i've made/am making a mistake and this usually leads to good discussion on this forum from what i've seen.
In reference to your question about putting decking off the West (living room) side - I plan to expand in the future by putting a 12x12 room there and continue the deck around that addition to meet the back bedroom deck, I'll have a TON of outdoor living space with lots of tiny microclimates so there should always be a sunny or shady spot when we want one. That's a ways down the road though.
I'm glad you've made progress on your shed, I can't imagine trying to make progress working just on the weekends like most on this forum do. I'm working full time on my place and it's taken almost 5 months to be at a point where i'm ready for walls! Tedious at times but very but fulfilling work.
I've made more progress in the last week but more importantly I have my daughter again until the end of October. I have the floor done finally and she decided that it was a great place to do an art project, which I was fine with.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/floorpainting.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/floordance1.jpg)
I know it's tradition to dance on the completed floor but I recently danced on the shed floor that I built so I let the little one do a portion of her recital for me (and you).
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/floor1.jpg)
Your works looks good as well as your beautiful daughter. She's about the same age as my youngest when we built our log home in Florida. We built our house on week-ends and it did take quite a long time (but worth it in the end)! She looks like she's having a great time. Makes me want to dance too! ;D Cathy
Cathy,
Thanks for the kind words. I told my daughter that we were going to put the walls up soon and she wants sooooo bad to help daddy! I told her that there were 2 very small walls that she could help me with but keeping her away from the house/build is next to impossible....she's just as excited as i am!
I ordered my interior beams and loft decking today and it will be here in about a week. I'll be using yellow pine for the beams and spruce 2x8 tounge in groove loft flooring.
I got my wall framing material delivered along with the decking material required to finish up the deck and i finally got that done. I coated my advantech flooring with a gloss polyeurethane exterior porch paint for 2 reasons. 1 because we are going to live with unfinished floors until we can afford to finish it off with hardwood and 2 because even though advantech is good stuff and withstands the weather I will sleep better at night with a good protectant. Besides it's easier to paint it on without having to work around wall framing.
I will be starting the wall framing tomorrow. I have a neighbor friend who is helping me out. We will frame, sheath and set any windows that is in each particular wall in the mornings and in the evening after his 15 and 17 year old boys get home from school we will be raising them. I have 12 walls total to build/raise and am giving myself 12 days to do it right! I've doubled my alloted time on almost everything else so i pray that i'm budgeting enough time this time.....i'f i'm not framed in by the 25th of September please someone come slap me!
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/floorcoating3.jpg)
Finished wrap around decking and floor coated with external gloss porch polyeurethane paint.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/windows.jpg)
Windows/doors and bathroom fixtures from craigslist and a reclaimed builders supply warehouse. Most are brand new and cost about 1/3 as they would new.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/wall1.jpg)
First wall framed and sheathed.
We gave my son a light hammer and a place he could nail. Occupied him and he had fun doing it. Got pretty good too! Your wall is looking good. [cool] My husband is the builder. I'm a good "helper" though-lol. Wish I would have thought of that idea with the polyurethene, we lived with unfinished floors for quite awhile too. I think the urethane would make it easier to keep clean too. We used a wood stove for heating which worked very well. We put a return air grill near the stove so in the winter he could just turn it on and it circulated the warm air through the house (at not much cost). The upstairs was nice and warm too. Guess that was a bit off topic ::) We are remodeling and are putting in a laminate floor in the living area. I have always been a bit of a "wood" snob I think ;D but this floor looks reallygood. It's a new Allen and Roth style (at Lowe's), wide planks, hand-scaped and looks very country. It is a floating floor, has pre-attached padding and the locking system is actually better than Pergo. My husband says it's the best floor he's ever laid. We had Bruce wood floors in our other home. Your windows from Craigslist look good too. You have quite a nice collection. Looks like a jacuzzi style tub-your daughter should love that too! I'm looking forward to seeing your continued progress. Cathy
Mountainlady,
I could probably try the hammer and keep her occupied for awhile, that's a good idea! I have her being my chalk line snapper occasionally and sweeping up the "magic fairy dust" that accumulates under my chop saw at the end of the day. She wants to lift walls though!
Our thoughts on the polyurethane floor were just as you said. We used a gloss so we could actually mop it if we wanted. No telling how long it will be there but not having to look at the word "Advantech" every 32 square feet will make it more bearable. Sounds like you have a nice alternative to solid wood there with the insulated laminate. I love that hand scraped look, I thought of going with a locally milled shiplap siding that is hand scraped but the scraping process triples the price! Will probably still go with the shiplap but will live with the rough cut with a good stain. Not sure what we are doing for flooring yet though, I may have it milled out of the same wood as my beams but still on the fence there.
I got my second wall framed, sheathed and raised yesterday but had some problems with photobucket so I couldn't put a pic up. Anyway that problem is fixxed so here it is. The "door" that is framed into this wall is actually a doorway which will lead to a future 12x12 room addition. It's framed and sheathed as a separate unit and is held in place with screws.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/wall3.jpg)
Another wall down (or should I say up-lol)! Nice work. What a great idea, planning ahead the door for an addition. I want to build a cabin using the Volks Cottage, eventually adding another bedroom as an addition. Of course, I haven't even bought any property yet but you have to start somewhere ::) We actually built our house in Florida with a log kit from Heritage Log Homes which is right outside Sevierville, TN. I really like TN and we have vacationed there for years (off topic again I know). Is that 1st wall the front door and window or does it face your pond? It's so much fun watching your house take shape. Less work watching too c* Can't wait to see more NavyDave!! Cathy
ML,
I'm trying to stay a couple steps ahead of myself as the project progresses. There are a lot of decisions that need to be made every day at this point in the build though. With a small home window and door placement is VERY important. I've just got done planning the kitchen and dining nook walls and should be framing them next. we are supposed to get quite a bit of rain in the next couple of days though so I may have an opportunity to step back and make sure the design fits our needs.
To answer your question about the wall with the door and window. That is the wall that faces south toward the pond. The way the floorplan was changed I don't really have a "front" to the house but I consider the south side my front.....although the parking area will be on the east side so the main door we'd be entering would be the door off of the laundry room bumpout. We'll incorporate a small coat rack and place to store shoes in that bumpout.
Glad you are enjoying the progress, we are very happy so far with what's been accomplished.
Well the rain finally subsided and after I swept all of the water off my floor I was able to get one of the small 5 foot walls for the kitchen/dining bumpout and the big 16 footer done today.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/wall4_zpsf7bb1257.jpg)
Put up a few more walls. Only one more to go until the main 16x28 foot square is closed off. After that the 12x16 bedroom addition and the 4x10 1/2 laundry/entryway bumpout will be framed. We are really able to get a feel of the interior space of the house now. I was a little worried at first that it may be a bit small for some of our furniture but we've decided that we'll fit very comfortably in there.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/walleasttowardgarden1_zps35cfb0d1.jpg)
East wall.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/walleastinside_zps8da67712.jpg)
Another shot of the East wall from the inside.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/wallnorth_zps20279fc6.jpg)
North wall.
Looks like building your walls is going well. [cool] You have such a nice view from your porch over the pond. I'd be tempted to sit a little too often if I had that to look at! Looking more like a house with each wall. Do you think you'll make your Sept 25th deadline? We rarely made our deadlines, just kept adding more time to each one-LOL :)
hmmmmm, the deadline!? I was hoping everyone forgot about that. I guess I forgot to count weekends when I calculated that number. d* The view from the pond definitely calls me, we'll enjoy that for a long time to come.
I got the last wall for the main 16x28 structure framed today. It's an interior wall so there will be no sheathing except on the two upper corners where the lower walls of the bedroom addition roof is framed. I raised this one with the help of a wall jack since my help wasn't available today. I've never used one of these so once I got it figured out it worked pretty smooth.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/walljack2.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/wallbathroom2.jpg)
this is outside of the main structure taken while standing on the 16x16 bedroom deck.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/wallbathroom1.jpg)
This is the same wall from the inside. It is the bathroom wall. The far right opening on this wall is an opening that will allow light into the walk in shower area and will probably have some type of glass in it (the shower will take a small space from the bedroom addition). The opening just to the left of that is the shower access door and the opening just left of that one is the doorway to the bedroom. The door to the bedroom is 12 inches higher than all other doors/doorways in the house to allow a vent with a thermastatically controlled fan to move warm air into the bedroom from the main living area which will be heated with a woodstove.
We have a bedroom wall!
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/wallbedroom1.jpg)
I built the entryway on the east side of the house today. We now have an entry/laundry room/utility room for the electrical and plumbing. There's enough space left over to be able to put a coat rack and a bench seat with storage underneath also.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/wallentry2.jpg)
OK today was my personal deadline for finishing up on the walls and, well, uuum I didn't quite make it. 2 more walls to go. The wife and daughter and I are heading to Atlanta tomorrow for a long weekend with family so the progress will have to come to a halt for a few days. Today I did make some headway though even if I didn't build any walls. I spent the first couple hours building a couple of 24" sawhorses. I've been breaking my back sawing sheathing on the ground and these things really make a difference....should've built 'em back in April!! I'll make a couple sets of different length extension legs for them soon too.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/sawhorse2.jpg)
I also got the band joists installed inside the house. I'll be hanging the heavy beams off of the bands on the long edges of the house and tying my toungue and groove loft flooring to these at the ends of the house.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/bandjoist2.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/bandjoist1.jpg)
It will be there when you get back. Spending time with the family is more important.
I had made a good set of horses which were extremely strong and portable. They folded up to store them on the wall. Very easy made using 3/4" boards, couple door hinges and 3/8" ply gussetts. I like to make mine table top heigth to lessen the back strain. With a sheet of ply they will double as scaffolding or a make shift picnic table.
(https://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd161/redoverfarm/scenes/country%20plans/100_0123-1.jpg)
(https://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd161/redoverfarm/scenes/country%20plans/100_0124-1.jpg)
Red,
Those horses are a good design and look really light. I'll be building a wood shop down the road, they might look good hanging on the wall. I built mine wide and kinda low so they could serve as oversized step stools. The ply wood on the bottom brace is perfect height to serve as a step and the 2x6 on top gives a good sturdy place to stand. My head is right at 8 feet when I'm standing on them. They came in very handy while hanging my band joists. Although some might say I should have installed my band joists before raising the wall d* Hind sight is 20/20 though.
I'll be hanging my beams soon and will be building a couple of A-frame ladders to use as scaffolding. They'll come in handy for the roofing process as well.
I spent a couple days doing a few small projects that need to be taken care of around here and invested a little time building 2 A-frames that will be used while hanging my exposed beams. They are 10 1/2 feet tall and 3 feet wide.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/aframes1_zpsc0b68d94.jpg)
I also spent 2 days building The bedroom end wall. It's like a bay window but square. Our bed will be a platform bed with drawers underneath and will recess into it. Being 24 inches deep it will give the bedroom the feel of being 18 feet deep instead of 16 feet. It's 8 feet wide so it will easily fit our queen size bed with built in nightstands and can be converted for a king size bed later if we want. I didn't have a crew available today to help me raise it and didn't want to attempt it with the wall jack because of the cantilevered recess making it off balance so I'll be lifting it on Sunday. One more wall to go!!
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/wallbedroomend_zpsb6b91920.jpg)
Dave I am enjoying your get up and go on your project. It's looking so good to this point, very excited to watch this build grow
Colchester,
I do have some get up and go but what I need is some get up and go faster! The leaves are changing out here and it's getting a chill in the air....high was 55 today. That's pretty cool for this time of year but it's definitely a reminder to prioritize things to get dried in.
My help came through like they said they would today and we got the bedroom end wall stood up. I'm real happy with the way it looks from the outside. I was concerned that the windows wouldn't look symmetrical but they look just how I planned.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/wallbedroomend2_zps0c55ae4f.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/wallbedroomendframing_zpsd687d441.jpg)
Here's the framing for the "bed recess"
excellent!
looking real nice. Really wanted to incorporate a bump out into my shed but couldn't afford the extra sq ft and still do the project under a shed permit.
Dave are you going to incorporate some bracing configuration under the bumpout?
Red, I thought of building something like this out of some scrap pressure treated 6x6s that was leftover from my deck posts. I'll attach the bottom directly to the rim joist and screw the top to a "ledger" attached to the underside of the bump out with 6 inch timberlok screws. I think putting a small inside arc for decorative purposes would make them look pretty sharp.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/deckbracing_zps7c51c75d.jpg)
Walls are all done! This last one is the east bedroom wall and will have a sliding glass door accessing the east deck.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/wallbedroomdoor2_zps604a5f1b.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/wallbedroomdoor_zps2923a1f5.jpg)
I've spent the last week wrapping up little things on the house that need to get done before I move forward. I have a tendency to get 98% done with a project and leave the last 2% hanging in the breeze for awhile. I don't wanna do that with this house though so I'm forcing myself to finish the little things before moving on.
Some of the things i've done:
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Fireblocking_zps6aa990b0.jpg)
Installed the wall top plates and fire blocking. The fire blocking will also act as a nailer for floor trim in the loft.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Lbrackets_zps961ae224.jpg)
Made 4 of these L brackets. These came in real handy for supporting large pieces of sheathing while installing. I'll use them later to help build and install my roof rafters and i'm sure they'll come in handy down the road when it comes time to hang cabinets etc.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Deckoverhangbeam2_zps37e2abb9.jpg)
Finished sheathing. Also installed the second row of 2x8 boards on my deck overhang as well as top plates (there is a 16' section without a top plate where a pergola will be above the bedroom deck and extended patio.)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Deckoverhangbeam_zpsbf4ea0e8.jpg)
South deck facing pond. Second 2x8 and top plate acts as a "rafter beam" for the deck roof. The recess at the end will accomodate a 2x10 to tie the end support post to the house.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Beamconnectors_zpsaa6d844e.jpg)
These are Simpson HUC68 and HUC612 beam connectors and a few miscellaneous beam ties for the exposed interior beams that are being delivered at the end of the week. My beams are white pine and will be left their natural blond color with a polyurethane coating. The connectors should contrast nicely with the black satin paint I used. Primed before painting.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/truss4_zps6393a0fe.jpg)
This is a jig that I used/am using to build my rafters. When i built my sawhorses I used 2x6 lumber to mimic the top plate of the house. The sawhorses were spaced the same width of the house and I used my L brackets to clamp the rafters in place so I could easily glue and nail my gussets. I also used a "Thrust block" as a stopper on the bottom inside of the rafter to keep it from sliding on the "top plate" of the sawhorse. I will use this Jig as an installation tool also since it hold the rafter VERY steady and straight.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/truss6_zpsd6834cff.jpg)
An inside view. You can see the "thrust block" in this pic.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/truss2_zps4cf0bf46.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/truss3_zpse0ae4f0f.jpg)
now those will be spectacular, might be awkward to raise with a lift of somekind, but man they look good!
They are actually fairly light being just a couple of 2x8's about 12 feet long. I've been thinking through the lifting process in my head and have it pretty well figured out.
I'm going to clamp my L brackets in place on the top plate and use my A-frames as a base for a 16 foot 2x4 with a pulley on the end (top of the pulley will be about 22' and my peak will be just under 21') The A-frames have a pretty wide base so they should be sturdy but I'll fix them to the floor to be sure there is no movement. Once the trusses are between the L brackets on the top plate i'll screw a 6" timberlok fastener through the double top plate, remove the L brackets and install my rafter ties. I'll document as I go of course.
sounds very interesting have to see it in motion so to speak!
My white pine interior beams showed up today. They are 6x8's, 6x12's and 6x6 posts. They are surprisingly light for as beefy as they look and I actually got the one that spans the kitchen finished with 2 coats of semi-gloss polyurethane and got it set in place and hung. This is the only beam that is actually required to be hung prior to the trusses going up since it will bear the load of the roof above the kitchen. I'll also install the 6x6 load bearing post in the middle of this beam prior to putting up the trusses.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/insidebeam2_zps3c35d5a7.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/insidebeam1_zpsc7b034bf.jpg)
I love the way the poly brings out the knots and the rustic look of the checking.
looking good. really enjoying reading your post! thanks for all the photos and detailed information. [cool]
This weekend wasn't very productive, most weekends aren't though. We spent a little time pumpkin hunting on Saturday but managed to get 2 coats of polyurethane on the load bearing post that supports the beam in the kitchen and stood it up. Sunday was time spent at Church followed by putting our feet up by the campfire. Those rest days are needed though.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/roofpost_zps2324b604.jpg)
Today I hung 8 of my trusses on the main 16x28 structure. I used a pulley system on the first truss but ended up using my A-frames and manpower on the remaining ones. The L-brackets that I made were life savers. When clamped to the top plate they provided a VERY sturdy place to clamp my trusses to until I got them screwed in place and the hurricane ties installed.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/roofbracket1_zps50d66003.jpg)
Here's how I used my A-frames and L-brackets to raise the trusses. The L-brackets were clamped tight to the top plate and were clamped to the truss leaving about 1/8th of an inch play. This allowed the truss to slide easily for me while raising the other end by hand. Once the other end was raised a 6 inch Timberlok screw was screwed through the double top plate from the bottom and hurricane ties nailed in place. Then the other end was fastened the same way.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/roofbracket2_zpsc7a0ef06.jpg)
A close up view of the L-bracket supports. Notice the Timberlok screw ready to be screwed up through the bottom of the double top plate.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/roof3_zps996bb20e.jpg)
You can kinda see the hurricane ties in this pic. Pretty sky too!
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Roof1_zps3fb9ae36.jpg)
Almost looks like a house now!
Your place is coming along ND. I love that pop-out window. Everything looks great. I PMed you to answer your question and sent a couple pics. I was having trouble with the messaging. I hope you got it. If not, I can send them again. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the compliments Jeff. Your build has definitely been an inspiration to me. I did receive your PM and saw the pics but the message disappeared for some reason. I was able to study the pic you sent of the bedroom addition valley framing though and used it to figure my design out. Working on that today and will be posting some more pics soon. Thanks again :)
I got all of the trusses built for the main 16x28 portion of the house and hung 4 of them. I also hung the end truss on the bedroom addition where it meets the main house. It's much easier to visualize framing the valley with that up. 3 more trusses to hang on the main portion and then i'm building my 8 bedroom ones. I'll tell you what, i've used muscles that I haven't in awhile because my body aches AND use of motrin is going up!
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/rooftrusses1.jpg)
please put some temporary bracing on the rafters ASAP, I'd hate to see a wind gust come up and over they go like dominoes....
I'll be bracing once I get the whole section installed. Luckily the forecact calls for winds that are light and variable and the prevailing winds are out of the north which affects the current trusses very little. I agree though I'd hate to see dominoes. The 6" timberlok screws I used through the top plate holds them pretty stiff right now though.
I strongly echo nysono's comment. Strongly! I've been traveling and have nor paid much attention to a lot of the postings lately, (over the entire summer actually) so I have some past due comments. But I have to catch up first.
Those rafters, they are not trusses, BTW... those rafters are just ripe for falling over and possibly killing someone. maybe the builder or maybe a bystander, innocent child, etc. One is leaning already in one photo and that is an indication of how unsafe that practice of no construction bracing is.
Many years back there was a DIY builder here who started an A frame cabin. I don't recall how many frames were positioned when everything toppled down in a heap. Luckily nobody was injured IIRC. Bracing that is planned for tomorrow sometimes never gets done.
Above comments are aimed as much at future readers, future builders who might walk away from seeing photos like that and think that the practice is fine. It's not. I don't want to hear that somebody got injured / killed. Construction is dangerous enough as it is.
Rafter vs truss: Those are rafters with the top points held in alignment with plywood; a gusset. They are not trusses. There is no bottom chord. A bottom chord is required to enable the truss to restrain all the horizontal forces within the truss. The exception would be a scissors truss; they limit the horizontal outward forces but do not totally eliminate them.
The plywood does not offer much structural strength in the grand scheme of all the forces interacting in a roof. They make it possible to erect each rafter pair and that is about it. The "lok" screws do offer some uplift resistance, but won't help a lot tp prevent the rafters from laying over if a stiff breeze comes up during construction.
Which brings up the next question. That looks to be a 12/12 pitch. That means for every 100 pounds load (including the weight of the roof components) placed on a rafter there will be 50 pounds vertical down load on the exterior wall and a 50 pound horizontal outward force on the tops of the walls. What is restraining that outward force? The HU connectors are designed to support a downward load and an uplift load (equal to about 1/4 of the down load). Simpsons specs make no mention of using them or other joist type hangers to prevent horizontal wall spreading. If nails are used to mount such hangers to the walls those nails are being used as a tension device. Nails are lousy (no good) in tension.) Nails are meant to be used in shear load conditions. Screws are not really meant to be used in tension either. They work better than nails to be sure but then depend on the strength of the wood fibers to resist tension pull out. They are probably weaker than we might think. Add to that, the horizontal outward force at the wall top is multiplied as we move down the wall. The wall is a lever. Assuming the bottom of the wall will not move 100 pounds applied horizontally at the wall top will become something like 400 pounds four feet down from the top...
Once again, I'm not an engineer. However, there are elements in this wall and roof design that may be future problems and, once again, I simply want to make readers aware of these points. As it sits I don't see anything holding the walls in plumb. What is keeping them plumb as the construction continues? If I've missed seeing internal wall to floor bracing I apologize. That is without saying anything about anything below floor level, and the seeming lack of horizontal structural bracing with the piers.
MountainDon thanks for the lesson on rafters vs. trusses. You got my nose back in the plans and just as you said they are called rafters. I will make effort to use correct terminology to keep confusion to onlookers at a minimum. My daughter calls them triangles though and I kinda like that name so that's the word we use around the neighborhood here. :)
Also I think there may be some confusion. If anyone else is under the impression that I intended to use the HUC hangars to counteract the outward force imposed on the walls I apologize. The HUC 68 and HUC 612 hangars mentioned in a previous post are strictly being used to hang my exposed beams on to support the downward force of the loft floor. The Victoria Cottage plan calls for collar ties to be installed on the rafters to counteract that outward force that MountainDon mentioned and will be installed after the rafters are hung. My collar ties (normally installed on the bottom 1/3rd of a rafter from what i've read) will be installed to allow for 7' of headroom in the loft and 24 inches from the top plate in the bedroom addition (giving a semi vaulted ceiling look). Please forgive any incorrect terminology.
It seems there's need for a disclaimer here because i don't want to hear that somebody was killed or injured either, especially if It's possible that I might be to blame:
My background for the past 20 years is in the military, more specifically flight engineering. I am not a structural engineer nor do i claim to be a professional builder in any way. I am not using this post as a "how to" device in any way nor am I offering any advice with any of my postings. It's solely my intent to document the progress on my project as an "owner builder", use it as a means to keep family and friends informed and foster meaningful discussion to help myself and other builders. I assume responsibility for only my practices and not any other builder's.
With all of that said we've had another weekend to rest and for good reason, the storm moving up the east coast brought some unseasonably cold temps and pretty stiff winds. I did finish installing the remaining 3 rafters on the main 16x28 section on Friday and temporarily braced them as mentioned until the collar ties and sheathing is installed. I also got the 8 remaining bedroom rafters built which i'll be raising once all the winds dies down. (they are calling for more seasonable weather on Wednesday)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/bracing1.jpg)
I used 2x6's on angle to tie the rafters together to eliminate flex from winds. Possibly inadequate to some but definitely proven to be effective in the last two days with the sustained 20 mph winds and gusts upward of 30-40 mph.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/trussesbedroom.jpg)
bedroom rafters.
I hear ya Dave. Same with my build I am a buiness/finance manager and mine is no way a "how to" but a "how I did it" documentation process. There is a lot of experience around the forum inclussive of MtnDon that for sure. Everything sometime with a grain of salt so to speak. Keep up the great prigress so far.
While people may intend to use the forum as a place to display what they have done, and do not mean for their project to be used as a textbook for building, I am quite certain that a huge number of DIY wannabe cabin builders use this and other forums as an electronic textbook on how to design and build their project. There is no "builder gene". But building technique can be learned. It is best learned correctly. Incorrect technique can not only be dangerous, it can be a wasteful exercise when something has to be prematurely rebuilt. One hundred and two hundred year old and older structures did not all get to be as old as they are by accident. There was a lot of trial and error that caused design and technique evolutions. The old structures we see today are the ones that were well designed, well built and well maintained.
Joe Amateur Builder is wanting to build a cabin. He has never build more than a doghouse and that had a shortcoming or two. But if nothing else he does have a belief that he can make it work out. He goes looking on the internet to see how to build. He sees lots of examples and figures that just about anything he finds must be good stuff. Maybe he picks a great solid build. maybe he picks a really bad one. Or something in between. But he believes that if it is built and displayed on the internet it can't be all that bad. So he forges ahead. With some luck the result won't sink and tilt, won't catch fire, won't have parts fall off and kill or injure someone. With some luck it may stand until Joe moves on or dies of some other cause. Meanwhile one of the examples he used in his planning has had a corner sink into the spring ooze. Another has had a partial collapse. Yet another has had all the OSB deteriorate because that builder stopped in mid process for the winter. The interior grade door that someone else used and said it was fine because they used exterior grade paint on it has warped and been replaced. The insulation another builder crammed into too small a rafter space is doing little good and because it was non vented there is mold waiting to be found.... The errors can be many. It is difficult to build a perfect project when one is using a myriad array of ideas and techniques, some of which may be faulty or dangerous.
So it behooves us all to do our best, to follow safe methods and procedures. Heck, we all take shortcuts, it's human nature I guess. But at times it's hard enough to avoid the things we really honestly could not see coming. So why do things that are too obviously outright wrong and/or dangerous or at best imprudent.
MtnDon I hear you but sometimes it is hard for someone who has put his heart soul, blood and tears into a project for so long to take crticism. On the other hand sometimes opinions run high everywhere but especially in a forum such as this and sometimes the experience vs. the bullsh! vs. advise vs. the criticism lines are vague at best. One's true ability to absorb constructive criticism is a skill which for some such as myself if a lifelong goal, and one I fear will never come easy..... :) That's all I'm saying.
As for the guy who jumps online and thinks anyone can do this, is nutz!. This forum like I mentioned has been the basis of inspiration, a lot of independant research, consultation goes into each of these builds and can sometimes be missed in the details as well. Can anyone do this, yes! Can anyone do this without the aforementioned, Hell NO!
I would agree with MountainDon that there are definitely a number of builders who have taken techniques and practices from this website. It's a great site filled with many years of experience and gallons upon gallons of sweat equity. I for one, have perused countless builds on the owner-builder forum and am amazed at the ingenuity that some possess on this site.
I have spent the past 20 years engaged in 3 separate wars and countless small conflicts acting as part of a team to ensure that we all enjoy the freedoms that most of us have grown up thinking are "normal". Take it from me that the freedoms that we possess are not normal in most of the world. One of those freedoms happens to be the fact that "Joe Amateur Builder" has the right to choose the construction method he uses to build his house, garage, chicken coop, dog house or birdhouse. If he builds a structure that fails in a year or two or even ten then he has probably chosen poorly, especially with the myriad of books, websites, local building experience etc. that he has the freedom to reference via an uncensored information system in order to plan his project. I was raised to and have spent my life assuming responsibility for my actions and don't have much tolerance for a person who isn't willing to do the same.
I have excercised my right to build a structure using a set of plans from whom I and many others consider to be a respected and talented architect and have chosen to follow those plans making decisions on modifications using books written and published by highly regarded publicists and authors and also by using the guidance of many years of local building experience. If my structure fails I will not blame the architect, the authors of those books or the advice given by those local builders. I have solicited advice and have also received unsolicited advice. Some advice i've chosen to follow and some i've chosen not to. I've been presented many options over the few years that i've been planning my family's home and assume full responsibility for my structure's integrity, after all it is mine.
I will piggyback on what MountainDon said that it does behoove us all to do our best though. He is absolutely correct that we all have that responsibility. I won't do my best out of responsibility for an onlooker who is willing to adopt my methods out of resistance to research the best ways for himself though. My best is done for me and mine out of a belief that I've weighed the available information.
I do acknowledge that the picture posted without bracing on my rafters may send a message to some that it's normal to leave a structure unbraced overnight but won't ever assume responsibility for another person's decision. I will however do my best not to send unintended messages like that in the future.
Now let's get back to building, winter is coming! d*
VERY well said, Dave! I couldn't agree more -- you express my exact feelings here. Best of luck getting dried in before winter.
QuoteMtnDon I hear you but sometimes it is hard for someone who has put his heart soul, blood and tears into a project for so long to take criticism.
I understand that. However, critical review is a continuing part of life and especially life on a forum such as this.
I have a question, but I will post it in a separate topic so as to not detract from the overall builder showcase here. Might be later today, or longer....
question / topic here (http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=12599.msg163990#msg163990)
Well after 4 days of feeling the fallout from Superstorm Sandy the winds have finally subsided and let me get some work done. It was nice and chilly this morning though at 28 degrees but the sun was out and it warmed up quickly to a high of 55. Luckily it is supposed to be a very nice next couple of weeks so we should see some roof progress.
I hung the 8 rafters in the bedroom using my A-frame with a pulley system attached to it. The last 3 were interesting since I ended up having to pull them up from the outside end of the bedroom. Those L-brackets I made continue to be a VERY good investment in time. Extremely helpful. I also got 2 coats of polyurethane on the 8 foot 6x12 exposed beam that spans half of the kitchen and got it hung.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/bedroomrafters2.jpg)
This is the west side of the bedroom addition. Notice the exposed beam materials on the lower right corner.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/bedroomrafters1.jpg)
East side of the bedroom.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/bedroomrafter3.jpg)
This one kind of gives you an idea of how i set the pulley up.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/beamkitchen.jpg)
I really like the way the Poly brings the color of these beams out.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/emilyleaves1.jpg)
AND FINALLY, My helper getting out of work by hiding in a leaf pile. I think she thought if her eyes were closed that I wouldn't see her ;D
I've made some progress on the roof framing over the kitchen/dining bumpout and porch section in the last couple of days. The going was slow starting out because I had to make 3 perfect "birdsmouth" cuts in each rafter and the first one was a real chore. It took me till lunch time just to get it right and I used it as a template to cut the remaining ones later.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/roofporch1.jpg)
The neighbors won't let their dogs come over to sleep under my porch anymore so I decided to park old farm machinery there instead ;D
I also have decided to hire a couple guys to get my roof sheathed and put the metal on. I want to be able to do this solo as much as possible (mostly out of pride but also to save $$) and have done so up to this point but the safety factor of working on a 12/12 pitch roof alone coupled with my slow pace and impending inclement weather has persuaded me to hire a crew. Their labor for sheathing/tar paper/ lathing/installing the metal roof and trim is $1750. Of course i'm there with them along the way but that's a deal i'm happy to strike!
I wish I took the time to keep better financial records of my project but so far based on my best recollection this is what I've shelled out:
Septic $7500
water meter install $550
Temporary Electric service box/install $100
Foundation material, cement, cement mixer, beam material $1800
Floor framing, subfloor, deck, wall framing/sheathing $6700
Exposed beams/2x8 Tounge in groove loft flooring $1800
Roof framing $1700
Miscellaneous hardware building supply runs for fasteners etc. $1500
Windows/doors (bought prior to moving to property) $900
Total: $22,550
Minus septic and utilities: $14,400
I'm anticipating the following costs prior to being dried in:
Roofing material and labor $5200
Felt paper for outside sheathing $300
Sliding glass door for bedroom $300
Exterior door $300
Total dry cost (including septic and utilities): $28,450
Great pictures and thanks for the helpful info on costs. It's one of the most asked questions and almost impossible to answer since there are so many regional (and personal) differences.
Your helper looks a little bit swamped but seems to be enjoying the work. :D
This is a pretty cool tool, and free---it asks very specific questions about square footage, quality of different materials, even zip code for the project and spits out a cost to build. Really good incentive to do the work yourself when you see how much goes to labor
http://www.building-cost.net/CornersType.asp
Quote from: MountainDon on October 28, 2012, 05:45:41 PM
Which brings up the next question. That looks to be a 12/12 pitch. That means for every 100 pounds load (including the weight of the roof components) placed on a rafter there will be 50 pounds vertical down load on the exterior wall and a 50 pound horizontal outward force on the tops of the walls.
In keeping with the safety theme, The actual vertical and horizontal forces are calculated using trigonometry. The horizontal force would be the total force*cosine of the angle the rafter/truss makes with the horizontal and the vertical force would be total force*sine of the angle the rafter/truss makes with the horizontal. In the case of a 12/12 pitch roof under 100 lb. force perpendicular to the rafter: horizontal force = 100 lb*cos45 = 70.7 lb and vertical force = 100 lb * sin45 = 70.7 lb.
In this case only a difference of 20 lb, but you can see with larger forces you could get in real trouble calculating them incorrectly.
Hope this proves helpful. Engineering classes prove useful!! ;D
I guess I got a little "cart before the horse" there. Dave, I really like what you're doing with the cabin. And I love the picture of your little helper in the leaves. Little Helpers make the journey much more enjoyable!
That looks fun hiding in the leaves. That would be something I'd like to do with my grandkids. Blew bubbles with them today so leaves would be up my alley too ::)What a great job you are doing!
It is always easier sitting on the couch watching and commenting ;D. I personally think that this forum is great for getting ideas & gaining knowledge but I also think that each person that does DIY has to take responsibility for building their home to appropriate codes (most of which are for building a safe home). Of course that is my opinion. We had our plans approved and our log home inspected as we built. We made some mistakes (that took some extra time to correct) and learned how to do things easier and better in the process.
I'd be willing to bet (and would probably win) that every "expert" on this forum has made some dumb mistakes. Thankfully they are still around to share their experiences and hopefully share some of their knowledge with someone else. I loved the thread that was entitled (I think) what I've learned about building -or something like that :) All sotrue.
I think your new house will be so nice. I do love that little bumpout area and your beams. Everytime I look you are making more progress. Sounds like a good idea to have the roof done to get it dried in quickly. That was the only part of our log home that we paid someone else to do (ours was a gambrel roof) and it was well worth the cost. Of course, I don't like heights much so helping with that was OUT! You should have seen me helping with the second floor windows and loft, etc. I did it BUT no more 2 story building for me. It is alot more work when you have to do so much work on ladders and scaffolding too. We had a huge 22 ft ridge beam-took quite a few men to lift it. We had a beam raising party and some of the men from our church came to help. My heart almost couldn't take watching that beam go up-it was huge, in a cathedral ceiling. I did the poly on all the logs and beams. Boy, did I get sick of doing that!
The more you do, the more I can imagine how beautiful it would be to sit on that porch overlooking your pond. We just came back from visiting Gatlinburg right before the big storm. We stopped to go to the Craftman's Fair and saw all the beautiful fall foliage. Drove right by your area on the way back home. Wished I would have know exactly where you were, would have loved to see it in person. Can't wait to see your roof done! What did you say you are using for siding? (or did you)
Cathy
John - Glad to help with the cost comparison.
Flyingvan - That website is pretty amazing! I plugged all of my info into it and the material cost difference was only $1400 more than I've paid so far. AND you're correct the labor costs are very interesting. According to the figures it would've cost me $17,000 paying for labor to get where i'm at now. I've put almost 5 months work into this project so I figure this job pays me about $3,400 per month or just over $40,000 per year. Believe it or not that's $13,000 more than the median household income in the county. A pretty compelling reason to press on as an owner builder!
MountainLady - My "helper" loves to blow bubbles too.....she and your grandkids would probably get along well. I like the "What I've learned..." thread also, The experience on this site is amazing, someone recently wrote that it's a "Deep well" of talent and I couldn't agree more. This area is beautiful this time of year (along with much of the country). You timed your Gatlinburg trip perfectly but I'm sure it was pretty crowded at that time with the colors in peak. In fact I think I read in MountainDon's thread that he and his wife were there right around the same time. If you took I-40 through Crossville to go back home then you were 18 miles from my front porch! Don't do that again without knocking, you'll be made welcome. And bring a couple of the grandkids, they can take turns pushing each other on our big rope swing ;D You asked about siding; I was originally going to go with a board and batten. There are a lot of houses around here with that but I think i've decided to go with a 10 or 12" shplap instead. The mill that milled my beams can do that siding for $1 a board foot delivered and it looks really good.....this is what is is for those who don't know:
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/shiplapsiding.jpg)
Thanks for everyones compliments. 32 degrees and sunny, time to get to work!
Love people that understand numbers....It's more than just the hourly rate though----you aren't paying tax on that labor. If you got a second job or worked OT to hire someone to do the work for you, you'd pay ever more in our 'progressive' tax system. Now, that labor gives you a direct gain in wealth without being taxed (unless you sold it, then it's due as capital gains). Wealth isn't taxed. Income is. Increasing your wealth without increasing your income is a very savvy move.
Your assessment of the site's accuracy matches mine. I thought they ran just a little high and I wonder if they fudge the numbers upward on purpose. People tend to be happier when a project ends up below the projection
Roof framed over the "front" porch today. Actually I have no idea what the front of the house might be considered. I think most people consider it the side that faces the road. I'll be drinking my coffee in the morning looking out over the pond so that's my front. c*
Heard my first Canadian Geese for the season this morning...Here comes winter d*
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Roofporch2.jpg)
woodteacher, thanks for the trig lesson. I was right in that with a 12/12 the forces get split equally, just wrong on the values. The right answer makes it even worse to not have proper bracing and proper rafter ties. Thanks again.
Yesterday and today I framed the 3/12 pitch roof of the East side porch. The first rafter was the hardest to get right but once I got that one where I needed it I used it as a template for the remaining ones. I pounded 400 nails today and my arm isn't happy!
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/roofporch5.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/roofporch4.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/roofporch6.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/roofporch7.jpg)
I got my table saw out today and started making the vent blocks that will go between the rafters. These allow the roof to be vented and with screen stapled on the inside of the v-notches keep the bugs/critters out. It was real nice to work for a day where i didn't have to lift heavy pieces of wood. Once the collars ties are up the big stuff is over.......WELL except for the loft beams d*
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/ventblocks1.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/ventblocks2.jpg)
This one shows the back/inside portion with the screen stapled to it.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Ventblocks4.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/ventblocks3.jpg)
this is where the bedroom meets the main house.
Starting to take shape. Nice work.
That was a good link for calculating costs flyingvan. Gives you a good idea of a ballpark figure for the cost. I want to build in a retirement/vacation home but that's still in the planning (dream) stage at this point. I want to pay as we build so it will definately take more time that way. I'm having to be content at the present in watching your build NavyDave ;DThat siding is beautiful. It will look really nice and the price seems good too. Will the boards be rough cut or milled smooth? Looks smooth in the pic but a little hard to tell. You sure got quite a bit more accomplished with those vent blocks too.
I know budget constraints may make a difference but buying a pnematic nailer was one of the best purchases we have made. When we built our house we did not have the nailer and nailed every nail in that house by hand so I definately can relate. Especially since I stunk at nailing to begin with. I kept missing but fortunately got muchbetter as I went along-thank goodness. We bought our nailer at Harbor Freight and it was VERY reasonable. I know they are not the best quality but they get the job done. We have used ours alot and it has held up fine. They wouldn't be very good for commercial work but they would be fine for what you are doing NavyDave, TOTALLY WORTH IT, especially with how much nailing you have left :) They have one in Knoxville and frequently have sales. You can get coupon online too! Anyway just my opinion.
Cathy
Hey Dave...looks great and love the updates on the progress! [cool] I'm in mid TN and would love to stop by some day and see the progress or finished project. Having to live vicariously through you until I can realize my own dream!
I like your vent block solution. I'm going to use that someday
Quote from: mountainlady1956 on November 08, 2012, 06:53:16 PM
That siding is beautiful. It will look really nice and the price seems good too. Will the boards be rough cut or milled smooth? Looks smooth in the pic but a little hard to tell. You sure got quite a bit more accomplished with those vent blocks too.
I know budget constraints may make a difference but buying a pnematic nailer was one of the best purchases we have made. When we built our house we did not have the nailer and nailed every nail in that house by hand so I definately can relate.
I will probably go with a smooth cut, I think the stain will go on much easier and it looks cleaner also. As far as the nailer goes I actually have a framing nailer. I also bought the package deal that they sell at Lowes that Bostich makes that comes with the compressor, finish nailer, brad nailer and power stapler. This project has been in the works for about 4 or 5 years and I've been collecting tools since then. It makes a big difference to have good tools.
Quote from: CheeseYeti on November 08, 2012, 08:05:29 PM
Hey Dave...looks great and love the updates on the progress! [cool] I'm in mid TN and would love to stop by some day and see the progress or finished project. Having to live vicariously through you until I can realize my own dream!
WOW CheeseYeti I've never been lived vicariously through, at least that I know of [cool] Thanks for the kind words, keep dreaming it will be a reality if you want it bad enough. Keep in touch, one can never have too many friends.
Quote from: flyingvan on November 09, 2012, 11:11:44 PM
I like your vent block solution. I'm going to use that someday
As much as I'd like to take credit for the design of those vent blocks it actually came with the plans of the Victoria Cottage. Pretty nifty though dontcha think?
I made some good progress today. Got the bedroom rafter ties installed, framed the bedroom gable end and installed the bedroom barge rafters. I've been trying to figure out how to install these barge rafters in the safest manner while working alone and came up with a pretty good way (in my opinion). I think it may help some to share it:
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/flyrafterjig.jpg)
When I notched the end rafters on the ground prior to raising them I used each one as a template for it's corresponding barge rafter, marked where the notches were and set them aside for this part of the build.
In this picture the 2 bottom clamps are holding spacer blocks. When the barge rafter is set on top of them it positions the top of it exactly 1 1/2 inches above the top of the end rafter. Also notice at the bottom of the end rafter I screwed in a corner brace. The corner brace kept the barge rafter from sliding down and the spacer blocks allowed the outriggers to be nailed while remaining flat on top of the second rafter (the one that the end of the outrigger gets nailed to).
I clamped (top clamps) the rafters in alignment based on the notches and the marks made on the ground, nailed the outriggers, realeased the bottom clamps and then the top clamps which dropped the barge rafter into the notches. Then I tapped the ends of the outriggers into place and nailed.
Mumbo jumbo to most i'm sure but if I could help someone it's worth it.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/flyrafterbedroom.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/collartie1.jpg)
I used string on both sides of the rafter as a gude to clamp my collar ties level before nailing into place.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/gableendframebedroom.jpg)
Gable wall frame, will have the same 24x24 window as the bumpout below.
Very ingenious (I think). Looks good [cool]
nice approach I like it very much!
Looking really good Dave. What's the time frame for getting it "dried in"?
Grover, I don't necessarilly have a time frame but I should easily be ready for the roofing by Thanksgiving. Then after the holiday I'll tackle the roof, tar paper the walls and then work on windows and doors. I also have all of the loft beam material and tounge in groove flooring for the loft. Once the loft floor is in i'm planning on stepping back from the project for a bit and enjoying the holidays.
It rained all day yesterday so I wasn't able to get anything done then but today I made some progress. I got the collar ties installed in the main house section and another barge rafter installed. We had our first hard frost of the season this morning. 27 degrees when I woke up but the sun came out and it warmed up to a high of 47 quickly.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/firstfrost1-1.jpg)
had to wait till about 9am to get to work because the frost made things pretty slick.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/collarties3.jpg)
Forgot to mention that i rented 3 sections of scaffolding for a week. For $81 you can't beat it!
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/collarties1.jpg)
The framing is done!! ;D
I've spent the last few days framing and sheathing the main house gable ends. I only have a few small things (vents on the south of the house and south deck barge rafters) to wrap up before the roof sheathing is ready to go up.
Awhile back I mentioned considering using Zip system panels for the roof and said I'd share the cost comparison. Building materials are through the roof right now but here's the cost difference between OSB with felt paper and Zip system sheathing and zip tape:
OSB and felt paper:
60 sheets of 5/8" OSB @ $17.80/sheet = $1068
9 rolls of 30# felt paper @ $18.64/roll = $168
Total = $1236
Zip system with Zip tape:
60 sheets of 1/2" Zip roof panels @ $23/sheet = $1380
9 rolls of Zip tape @ $21/roll = $189
1 Zip tape dispenser = $60
Total = $ 1629
The difference between the two options is $393. We've decided to pay the few extra dollars for the Zip option for a couple reasons; First with inclement weather being imminent at any time it will allow us to put our house frame under protection in the time that it takes for roof sheathing to be installed without waiting for the metal roof to be installed also. Second it will allow us to step back from the build a little sooner so we can start concentrating on the holidays. Lastly I believe the Zip system is an all around better product than OSB with felt. After researching I now wish I'd used it for the walls as well.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Roofpeak.jpg)
Standing on my 2 foot sawhorse while on top of 12 feet of scaffolding and installing barge rafters has been my least favorite experience of the build so far!
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/endwall2.jpg)
West gable end sheathed
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/endwall3.jpg)
Inside view of the East gable framing and sheathing. I'm standing on the scaffolding while taking this pic so it gives sort of a bird's eye view of the installed exposed beams also.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Emilyhangon.jpg)
This one is a few weeks old but definitely worthy of sharing :D
very curious about this zip system. Love the picture with your daughter, reminds us all of why were are building our dreams....
Colchester, If you're interested/curious about the zip system check out Rich2Vermont's "Vermont 10 x 16 shed with loft" or you can peruse it at http://www.zipsystem.com/
I brought back the scaffolding today but not before I maximized it's use by setting it up on the outside West end of the main house and used it to install the 30# tarpaper to it's peak. Tomorrow we head to Atlanta for Thanksgiving with family and some much needed rest and relaxation :)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/tarpaper1-1.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/tarpaper2-1.jpg)
Well Happy Thanksgiving Man, enjoy the quite time with the family...
Been back at the build for about 4 days now and have all of the felt paper on the walls with the exception of the East gable. I've been tieing up loose ends before the Zip roofing gets installed this Saturday.
I've had company visit me 2 days in the past week. A family of Otter and they are quite docile. At one time I was only about 10 feet away from one of 'em......click the video below to check him out.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/th_Ottermovie.jpg) (https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Ottermovie.mp4)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/tarpaper3-1.jpg)
I put felt over most of the window openings to better protect the structure until I actually get the windows installed.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/tarpaper4-1.jpg)
Looking great.......I'm very jealous.
Started installing the Zip sheathing on the roof this weekend. We got about 2/3 done and had to stop for rain. I'm real happy with the looks of the place though. Just have to finish sheathing the North side of the main house and the West side of the bedroom addition and tape it up. Once I get the North side done i'll put my chimney through and light a fire in the wood stove to celebrate :)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/ziproof5.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/ziproof4.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/ziproof2.jpg)
Looks great Dave! I know how hard it is to haul those panels up there, but it sure it worth it. Hope the weather cooperates so you can get the rest up there.
Thanks Rich, It wasn't as hard to get those panels up as you might think. This is the first phase that I used help. I hired a couple of guys for $650 to help me out who are doing a fantastic job. I'll be using them to hang the metal in the spring as well.
As far as the weather.....it rained all day today but the rest of the week is supposed to be nice and sunny.....hopefully we'll enjoy some progress ;D
We made some more progress this week. Got the felt on the East gable end, finished up sheathing the roof, installed the Zip tape and layed a strip of felt paper (temporary until the metal goes on) over the roof peak where it vents. I worked all day yesterday taping seams and got it done right before the rain started. I have a couple drips on a few nail holes that i'll have to seal up (was warned by Rich2Vermont that this might happen) and have a leak where the main roof funnels water around the bedroom peak because i didn't tape the felt on the peak on that corner. Once those couple issues are taken care of I should be nice and dry!
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/ziprooftape1_zps8abf18cc.jpg)
tried to tape as much as I could reach by sitting on the peaks.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/ziprooftaped4_zps459dff5e.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/ziprooftaped3_zps8055cc88.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/ziprooftaped2_zpsfdf2c00d.jpg)
loft support beams staged on the deck. will start hanging them after Christmas.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/ziprooftaped5_zps8e2dcda5.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/woodstove1_zpsad7d6c8b.jpg)
We'll be using an Englander 17NC model wood stove for heat.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/woodstove2_zps0cacbc88.jpg)
You are making great progress. I love the wood stove. I'm looking forward to seeing it in ;D
Well the holidays went well and we've been working for a couple weeks getting the house sealed up so it would hold some heat from the wood stove. Since my last posting we've:
installed the wood stove
Installed the windows and 2 of the 4 doors
Polyuerethaned the interior beams and hung them
built a set of stairs and a deck landing with septic tank access hatches.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/windows4_zpscab0b802.jpg)
East side of house
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/windows2-1_zpsc504dac0.jpg)
North side. The chimney is installed but i'll be raising it an additional 2 feet once the metal roof goes on.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/windows1-1_zps355dd6e5.jpg)
North and west sides
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/reflection3_zps5c96ebe5.jpg)
South side. Nice view from the 57 inch picture window!
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/interiorbeams13_zpsadbb2e3c.jpg)
We used a block and tackle and a chain suspended from the collar ties to raise each beam into place. 2 coats of polyurethane on each one. The hardware is primed and painted with semi gloss black.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/interiorbeams16_zps92f7586d.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/interiorbeams11_zpsff57c273.jpg)
6x12s and 6x8s
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/interiorbeams15_zps33b27a2d.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/stairs1_zps0b767fbf.jpg)
The first set of stairs on the East side of the house. The deck platform is over the septic tanks. I'll be building flush mounted access panels so I can get to the tank.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/woodshavings1_zps3c04e34c.jpg)
I've also been getting wood shaving from the 2 neighbor's horse's beds every day having been inspired by Oljarhead and GlennK to use them in my garden as mulch. I'm looking forward to seeing the results this year. This was the movie that Oljarhead posted on Glenns page http://www.backtoedenfilm.com/#movie It's an hour and 45 minutes long but very interesting!
Ive been waiting patiently for this update! keep em coming ;D
Thanks for the interest Nathan i'm trying to document things as best as I can. Here's a couple pics of the setup that we used to raise our beams.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/lifting%20beams/interiorbeams2_zps45723d3e.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/lifting%20beams/Interiorbeams1_zps441cf56f.jpg)
this system simplified the lifting process and once the straps were balanced along the center of gravity of the beam we were easily able to lift them into place.
The beams are just georgous! I just love the character of the wood knots. We had beams like that in our log home and am dreaming of having them again some day. You have made great progress NavyDave although it never seems fast enough when you're doing it. It's a lot quicker when I get to watch ;D I'm looking forward to seeing more Cathy ::)
Hi Dave,
i have been silent on this forum for a long long time.. we started our build 4 years ago.. and we are just about ready to move in full time. in the meantime, however, we have enjoyed lots of time at our house. It looks like you are doing a great job. I got to read your entire thread this evening. We shared some of the same frustrations that you have encountered, but I probably don't have to tell you that the rewards far outweigh the temporary setbacks!
my brother lives in sevierville - we were hoping to get down to visit in Feb, but we have had to postpone that trip. It is nice that you are able to work throughout the year. The first two years of our project, I just buttoned everything up at the beginning of january and returned in May - that was a luxury of sorts - it was nice to return to the project with renewed energy and excitement. we also has the benefit of not having to work under any specific timeline.
I sure am glad that your project survived Sandy - even as far inland as you are, i bet you got quite a lot of wind.. best of luck as you continue your build.. it looks like you have a great spot, and your house is coming along very nicely! jt
Cathy, I love the way the beams look also. When I put the poly on my first beam I was amazed at the look. I'd love to see a couple pics of your cabin. You've mentioned it a few times in my thread and it seems like it's similar to the look i'm gravitating toward. Might give me a few new ideas.
Pocono, It definitely has been an adventure. Sometimes I wish I could step away from the action like you were able to, especially on these recent 20 degree days. We must go on though and the sunshine (and the wood stove) has been a blessing. I can understand your renewed energy upon your return to the project. It's similar to starting a new phase for me. It seems that no matter what the phase I can't wait to get to it but also can't wait to finish. Things tend to get monotonous after awhile especially when they take longer than normal due to working alone. My brother has been working with me for the last week though and we got the windows/doors installed in short order. It's absolutely amazing the difference in work that can be accomplished with an additional person.
Today I finished the stairs and stair platform and built the 2 flush mounted access hatches for the septic tank openings.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/hatches5_zps1a6f7cb9.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/hatches4_zpsc5f0ff74.jpg)
I used a 1 1/8" bit for finger hole pulls on the hatches.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/hatches1_zpsf26a138d.jpg)
The hatches are propped up to show how they were constructed. They aren't connected with any type of hinge, they just lift off the platform.
Dave were yoiu required to get a permit for your septic system? Just wondering as here the septic tank I believe is required to be at least 25 feet from the residence.
Yep the septic is about the only thing that a permit was required for. It's a pump system and the leach field is about 150 feet away so that may have been the main reason for the approval.
The only red tape to have to deal with in this locale (Fentress county TN) is the septic permit and the rough and final electrical inspections.
Up here in Nova Scotia I'm in hibernation mode until spring, just thought I would log in and see what's been hapenning. Dave to say your work is inspiring would be an undestatement. My propert is snow locked in until spring so watching yours grow is growing my itch... roughly 2 more months. Kepp up the good work!
Colchester, Good hearing from ya. I thought you got lost hunting in the woods up there or something. I can imagine that your building itch is getting really scratchy. If you're anything like me you've been using your down time researching and reading everything you can get your hands on to come up with ideas on how to move forward. You have a great project started and i'm looking forward to seeing you start up again.
I've started working on my loft floor. I'm using 2x8 white pine V-match tongue and groove stock with Semigloss polyurethane on the bottom portion (ceiling) and a finish yet to be determined for the top (loft floor)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Toungueandgroove2_zpsef0d36a9.jpg)
Prior to the polyurethane
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/toungueandgroove4_zps999385aa.jpg)
After the poly
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Toungueandgroove3_zps599f543a.jpg)
The wood stove is keeping the place at about 55ish degrees with the outside temp in the low 20's. No insulation yet and LOTS of gaps still in each window and door frame.
Dave you figured out how you are going to attach your T&G?
Looking great ND!!!! :D
Jeff thanks for the seal of approval...still have a long way to go to catch up to all that you've accomplished up in Maine though.
John, I pondered drilling pilot holes in the tongue of my 2X stock and nailing them in place with spiral nails but after some review and discussion via Private messages I am leaning toward screws so I can use the screw to pull the tongue into the groove completely. Prior to fastening the floor I'll be routing channels and laying wire into the top of the beams for electrical fixtures that I'll later hang from the bottom of the tongue and groove. I appreciate your shared experience and insights via PM. You've probably saved me quite a bit of time and given me info to produce a better project overall. Thanks.
Polyurethane! Polyurethane! Polyurethane!
The picture below represents 6 days of work with 3 coats on each board. They dried sloooow with the temps mostly in the high 20's to low 30's. I think it was Mountainlady that mentioned how tedious this part was....boy was she right, but a wise man once told me that "slow and steady wins the race". If that statement is true then I'm surely gonna win! d*
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/loftfloorboards_zps76ac0cc6.jpg)
Next is building my stairs. I'm going with the steep cottage stairs made out of 4X12 stock. White pine like everything else.....and more polyurethane on those too....uuuugh! Here's a before pic of the stairs....hopefully by the end of the week there will be an after shot.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/stairstock_zps189cd9c5.jpg)
Yup tedious is the understatement :) but oh so worth it. Your ceiling is going to look spectacular!
Cathy
Took almost two weeks to get to a finished point on the stairs but it's been a really fun project. All in all I have about $325 in lumber, hardware and polyurethane and 45 hours into these stairs. They are steep at 54 degrees but very functional. 9 treads and 10 steps with a 9 7/16" rise and a 6 1/2" run. I ended up using the entire 4x12 for each step which gives 4 3/4" overhang. Here's how I built them:
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/interiorstairsstorypole1_zps10453c9d.jpg)
I first cut each runner, set them in place and used a 2x4 as a storypole to help lay out the treads and risers.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/interiorstairslayout_zpsc9999d5a.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/interiorstairsstorypole2_zps98f8ad03.jpg)
I used a level and carpenter square to mark where i'd later chisel the tread and riser notches.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/interiorstairs1_zps1375f3b8.jpg)
I used my level that is exactly 1" thick to set my skill saw depth.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/interiorstairs2_zps82a10228.jpg)
I CAREFULLY ran my skillsaw up the layout lines and then at every 1/4".
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/interiorstairs3_zps0cdb2158.jpg)
Used a 1 1/2" inch chisel to remove the notched out material.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/interiorstairs4_zpsd49370a7.jpg)
I used the same 1" thick level to check the notch depth that I used to set my saw with.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/interiorstairs5_zpsf39fb0c8.jpg)
used a 3/4 inch chisel for my riser notches to accommodate the 1x10 risers.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/interiorstairs6_zpsa0cd0fe6.jpg)
these notches were quite tasking. over a day on each runner.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/interiorstairsnotches_zps24281e20.jpg)
it was worth the work though. They turned out real nice.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/interiorstairsemily2_zpsabbec3e3.jpg)
then the polyurethane work started, 3 coats. Luckily I had help on this part.....it may have taken a bit longer with my helper but she's a lot of fun :D
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/interiorstairs13_zpsd02e6ffc.jpg)
stair treads are exactly 32" wide giving 30 inches of usable tread with the 1" notches.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/interirorstairs14_zps42fb29f3.jpg)
I drilled a 1/2" countersunk hole and used 2 - 4" timberlok screws on each side of each tread.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/interiorstairsemily4_zps3139d9de.jpg)
all assembled and stood up for the screw cover accent pieces to be glued into place and a final coat of polyurethane.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/interiorstairs12_zpsa8880c00.jpg)
screw covers glued in place.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/interiorstairs17_zps6f7c7c0e.jpg)
Up and secured. This pic is taken while standing on the loft beams on the west side of the house.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/interiorstairs20_zps1bcd937d.jpg)
A happy helper!
Wow! Those look amazing!!!! [cool]
love the big timbers and those stairs look great !
those stairs are inspiring... might have to use that technique with mine.... :P
Thanks for all the kind words. I'm real happy with how the stairs turned out but may have been able to save myself some time by making a router jig for the grooves instead of kerfing with a skill saw and chiseling out the waste. Regardless it was a fun project and they are as solid as the bedrock that they are built on.
Wow it's been a month since I've posted anything. Mainly because the progress I've made hasn't seemed worth posting but looking back at everything I've done in the last month I guess I've been pretty busy after all.
It's definitely spring in East Tennessee now with the daytime temps in the low to mid 70's and the night time temps in the 50's. I guess I've felt spring in the air because lots of time has been invested in the garden area. Throughout the winter I've been collecting the neighbor's horse's bedding (wood shavings) which obviously has horse manure mixed with it. I've been gathering the daily mixture to build a vegetable garden. Awhile back I watched the "Back to Eden" video that Oljarhead posted and decided that the concept really made sense (see previous posts for a link to the video). I've made beds for the following vegetables with most seedlings emerging: Cauliflower, broccoli, savoy cabbage, red cabbage, brussel sprouts, red, yellow and white onions as well as salad onions, beets, turnips, salad greens and lettuces, kohlrabi, sugar snap and pod peas, climbing beans, parsnips, and carrots. If there are any gardening fans out there watching the "Back to Eden" video is time well spent.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/cooplathing3_zps5c16ce23.jpg)
Anyway, this site is about building so one of the projects that i'll share (also in my garden area) is an 8X9 chicken coop (framing pictured above). I used railroad ties as a foundation and pallets for the wall framing, which are surprisingly strong. The roof overhangs 3 feet on the sides and about 2 feet in the back for the chickens to always have a shady place to escape to. I'll be using some poultry netting that is 24x24 to use as the top of the chicken run (more to follow on that one). Here's a couple pics of the almost finished coop:
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/cooproof1_zps5025b411.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/cooproof3_zps07102246.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/cooproof2_zps63d7c1e9.jpg)
I decided that Spring was also a good time to get the old 1952 Ford 8N that my dad bought for me last year running real good so I could start clearing some of the land that we'll eventually fence and turn into pasture. I rewired the entire tractor, changed plugs, wires, points, coil, resistor, battery and oil. I also lubed both the tractor and brush hog. Along with a bit of chainsaw work and a chain attached to the back of my brand new antique tractor I was able to accomplish this:
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/clearedpasture4_zps654e8618.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/clearedpasture2_zps42320e5d.jpg)
OK so back to the house, I've made some progress on the interior wall framing and dry fitted the bathroom for plumbing measurments.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/kitchenandbathroomwallframe1_zps55f3f05b.jpg)
I also figured out (after lots of pondering, and some very helpful advice from Redoverfarm) how I was going to run wiring through my beams to meet local electrical code prior to my loft flooring going in. Here's a pictorial:
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/wiringinbeams5_zps230a5c5c.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/wiringinbeams2_zps474424a8.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/wiringinbeams3_zpsca77bbd8.jpg)
In preparation for the metal roofing I had to plan my plumbing vent system so I could figure out where the roof flashing would be located. I used 3 inch PVC for my main vents.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/plumbingvents1_zpsd233ce8f.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/plumbingvents3_zps4aa11d2b.jpg)
And speaking of the roof, here it is:
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/metalroofday1-3_zps64f10e75.jpg)
The OSB that I used as the subroof for my end bedroom bumpout was replaced by the better zip roofing. Partially because it's a better product and partially because the winter that it spent without the benefit of tar paper cover left it weathered and deteriorating.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/metalroofday3-1_zps9b38d311.jpg)
The roof is the only area of the build that I've used hired help. The cost using help was $3100. it would've been $6250 if I decided to contract the entire job out.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/metalroofday3-2_zpse5293d02.jpg)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/metalroofday3-5_zpsdf476621.jpg)
I was short by 2 sections of ridge cap so we had to call it quits until my ridge caps come in. Very happy with the color (Hunter green)
I always enjoy your pictures ND. The place is looking nice!
Just read through your entire thread and you've done so much and your home is looking great. I knew I guy here who built a huge post and beam house and he wired it the same way you've wired your house. I was also wondering if you ever found out what the gas lines were?
Nice land,house and pallet shelter! [cool]
Thanks to all for the kudos!
Abbey, the gas fittings that I posted pics of, I believe on the first page of the thread, are a spent natural gas well (no pressure) and a pressure reducing valve that probably fed an old structure that's long been demolished. This property is part of what used to be a 200 acre farm that's been subdivided for quite some time now. in the general vicinity of that pressure reducer there is some old feeding troughs and some other barn related implements so i'm sure there was an old barn that it fed at one time.
Dave,
Is this something you can remove, or is it something you're going to have to live with? I guess what I'm getting at is will this impact your plans for the land, i.e. farming, live stock, etc.?
Abbey, probably will just live with it since it's in the pasture area and not really an eye sore or nuisance very much at all. Last year it was kind of a nuisance to bush hog around (as it will be this year) but when the fencing and barn goes in i'll just let whatever livestock (probably goats, sheep and pigs to start with) take care of keeping the grass down around it.
Quote from: NavyDave on April 12, 2013, 05:45:16 PM
Abbey, probably will just live with it since it's in the pasture area and not really an eye sore or nuisance very much at all. Last year it was kind of a nuisance to bush hog around (as it will be this year) but when the fencing and barn goes in i'll just let whatever livestock (probably goats, sheep and pigs to start with) take care of keeping the grass down around it.
Dave if you want it up the pigs will probably root it up for you. ;D
Dave,
Cool, I was wondering if it would be a problem, but it looks like for you, at least, it's a minor issue that you can live with.
Red, I hear pigs can do wonders on a farm.....you want a tree stump gone? Pour a bucket of corn around it and a week or so later all the roots will be exposed. If it's a real big stump then just pour in another bucket. If only I could figure out a way to get pigs to build a house :)
My understanding, at least with pig contractors, is you only want the brick house. Unless hungry wolves are not an issue in your location. ;D
Did a few things since my last post:
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/metalrooffinished1_zpsdf37c10c.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/metalrooffinished1_zpsdf37c10c.jpg.html)
Finished putting the metal on the roof.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/metalrooffinished2_zpsb056716e.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/metalrooffinished2_zpsb056716e.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/chickencoopwestside_zpsddb4d1f7.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/chickencoopwestside_zpsddb4d1f7.jpg.html)
Finished framing the chicken coop, built doors and covered the run with netting. 24x24
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/chickencoopinside_zpsd00abf64.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/chickencoopinside_zpsd00abf64.jpg.html)
built roosts inside.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/beamconduit9_zpse4f9d54a.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/beamconduit9_zpse4f9d54a.jpg.html)
Finished running the lighting wires through conduit in the loft beams.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/beamconduit10_zpsc6109561.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/beamconduit10_zpsc6109561.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/loftfloor1_zps066dec9f.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/loftfloor1_zps066dec9f.jpg.html)
AND got the floor that I polyurethaned this winter installed.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/loftfloor4_zpse89c508a.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/loftfloor4_zpse89c508a.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/loftfloorceiling3_zpsdc43ef09.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/loftfloorceiling3_zpsdc43ef09.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/loftfloorceiling5_zps2474c4ea.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/loftfloorceiling5_zps2474c4ea.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/loftfloorceiling2_zps61466629.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/loftfloorceiling2_zps61466629.jpg.html)
Dave a newcomer myself thanks for the welcome earlier and thank you for your service. I am not sure what it is about us old military guys wanting to move to the peace and quite of the country, but it seems to be a trend. ;)
This site and reading the post from various contributors has a welcome wealth of information and perspectives.
I love the place very nice work. You and I seem to have the same ideas about chicken runs as well. Looks similar to what I was planning as well. Just not that far down the road yet. [cool]
We just received our victoria plans. Love all your covered porch areas. I was wondering is you could post your floor plan so I can see the modifications you made. Thanks
Tcampbell,
To be honest I don't have any hard copies of any modifications, they are mainly in my head. My wife can attest that I've spent many near sleepless nights working through the details of any changes in my own "thought experiments". I'll try to cover the changes that I made though and will be glad to clarify later if you have questions.
First and probably most obvious is the kitchen/dining area roof. Instead of continuing the 12/12 pitch over the kitchen/dining area and terminating at the exterior wall I made the pitch change to a 5/12 starting at the kitchen roof beam that sits on top of the main 6x6 kitchen post. This 5/12 pitch change worked for me to give me a 7 foot porch in front of the kitchen/dining area and a 12 foot porch in front of the living room area while giving a 6' 8" clearance at the porch beam to allow for a future stairway down to the yard (which I believe I've changed my mind about now) the change in roof pitch gives a real open feel to the kitchen and dining area.
The next change is pretty simple, I just extended the roof of the side (back?) porch to be 16 feet wide for 2 reasons. First the utility room will be accessed from outside and the roof extension will keep me dry if I need to access it in the rain. Second I think it looks real good! :)
The last change is that I extended the bedroom by 2 feet to 16 feet long vice 14 feet (add another 2 feet for the bumpout totalling 18 feet) I did this because a portion of the bedroom will be taken up by a walk in shower that will be accessed from the bathroom. I also added a 6 foot opening in the bedroom for sliding glass door which will access the side 8 foot deck.
One last change is that in the kitchen instead of separating the kitchen and dining area with a bar I'm continuing the kitchen cabinets the entire 16 feet to the dining area wall and using an island where the bar is in the plans.
Feel free to ask for clarification if I was vague in any areas. I'll be posting some more pics of the loft railing soon...it's looking good. Good luck with your project. It's been alot of hard work and a lot of fun on my end.
Nice craftsmanship NavyDave. A very handsome deck job. You have done a lot of things well.
REALLY NICE ND!!!!! This is an amazing project...it might be my favorite on CountryPlans. :D
Navy Dave,
Thanks for the info. We are still in the planning process and really love your build so please keep the pictures coming. I'll probably have lots more questions as we begin. Thanks
Thanks for all the compliments, Tcampbell I'll try to be as much help as I can but i'm no pro.....just real stubborn sometimes ;D
Jeff, Your build is one of my favs on here also....I've taken a lot of info from your thread and my project wouldn't be what it is without your help....thanks.
As promised I have some new progress pics:
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Emilysroom1_zps3b2fb2f4.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/Emilysroom1_zps3b2fb2f4.jpg.html)
The smaller loft will be my daughter's room. I framed the wall on the North side of the bridge to have an "interior window" in it (no window pane just for looks) There will be a bunk bed above the "window" and a desk below it so she can look down at the living space. The room will be "sided" using the rounded log siding to give an appearance of an exterior wall and we will have shutters on the "window" to finish off the look. As you see she likes the idea. A pocket door will be framed on the adjacent wall. As a side note, check out the way the evening sun shines directly on the loft bridge through the West window.
My railing is made from yellow pine (like my beams) 4x4 stock. The top of the horizontal support is at 38 inches and the post supports rise another 2 inches to an overall height of 40 inches. Like several others on countryplans I used 1/2 inch rebar as my spindles. Mine are spaced at 4 inch OC which gives a 3 1/2 inch opening. Primed and painted with semi gloss black to match all of my beam supporting hardware. This was a really fun project which took a total of 9 days.....very well worth it since the look is exactly what was desired and more!
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/railingspindles6_zpsa4a2104d.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/railingspindles6_zpsa4a2104d.jpg.html)
This is a view from the larger sleeping loft.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/railingspindles11_zps235dbf34.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/railingspindles11_zps235dbf34.jpg.html)
looking up from what will be the kitchen.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/railingspindles10_zpse8c55ac1.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/railingspindles10_zpse8c55ac1.jpg.html)
6x6 kitchen support post detail.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/railingspindles13_zps46777690.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/railingspindles13_zps46777690.jpg.html)
Taken from the smaller loft.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/railingspindles7_zps71854540.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/railingspindles7_zps71854540.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/emilysroompocketdoor3_zpsb7331604.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/emilysroompocketdoor3_zpsb7331604.jpg.html)
Framed pocket door in the upstairs bedroom.
Fantastic Dave, it looks amazing. I was out today and redid some measurements so I can start to put my yearly plan together. I hope you don't mind but I am going to borrow :P the looks of your railings. Hopefully this year we might see some progress on mine... keep up the excellent work!
Colchester,
Glad you are finally thawed out up there enough to get busy on your place. I'm excited to see what you have in store for us this year. As far as borrowing my railing look....go for it...I borrowed it too ;D it's a really cheap way to go and the black spindles look REALLY good next to the blond wood. Looking forward to seeing your progress!
Wow! This makes me want to start my project ASAP... I'm just wondering... I plan on building the Builder's Cottage it's 14 x 24... I haven't purchased the plans yet but I want to make sure I can make a loft with enough headroom as yours has... at least 6'-7'. I'm also wondering if I have a loft that is 13' x 7'6" size loft... can I make the loft with a height of 6'-7'? And what is the height of your loft at the edges where the walls are... meaning the lowest point? I want to make sure I can fit a double/queen size bed as well as a dresser and any other additional storage. Would really appreciate your advice/opinion. Thanks for all the pics... so inspiring!
Dawn
Love2teach7,
My loft knee walls are at 54" and my ceiling height is 7'3". I would think that it's doable to make the 14x24 builders cottage with a loft height of 6'7" but am not sure if you could do it using collar ties in the bottom 1/3rd of the rafter like is traditional. You could definitely do it using a ridge beam though and that would look awesome! Some of the projects that come to mind for you to check out that you might be interested in are:
14x24 Olympic Peninsula - Considerations built/is building this and she used the space very efficiently.
14x24 by a lurker - Oljarhead's project
Vermont 10x16 shed with loft - built by Rich2vermont, I believe he put a queen sized bed in his 10 foot wide loft by using a ridge beam. He also used a wrap around porch to make his small space look quite a bit larger. Something that would look great on a 14x24 also.
Another project you might want to look at (one that was a big inspiration to me) is Deer Run - 16x26 Oklahoma. ScottA built this. It's a little wider than the 14x24 at 16' but would definitely be possible to attain your loft height and still use the collar tie method. If you went this route you'd need to go with the Victoria cottage plans.
With all of that said I'd post a question on the General forum for JRaabe or MountainDon or some of the more experienced guys to lead you to which plans might be best for you. Some of the things that you might want to include are location and snow load. These things will make a difference when you start thinking about roof construction. I hope I've helped lead you to a place that will answer your questions.
Thanks Dave, I'll look into it!
More progress! I passed my rough electrical inspection last Friday [cool] I won't take credit for that one though. I used a local electrician/plumber with a good reputation and he roughed us in for $675 in labor costs. I'll also use him for my final Electrical and plumbing for another $675, which I think is a really good deal. I figured since my electrical would require an inspection that I'd rather the inspector know the reputation of the person doing the install. I'm sure if I did it myself the inspection would have been much more thorough.
After the inspection was done I was able to start covering framing up so I spent the last 2 days insulating the attic and roof with a radiant barrier foil insulation. This is a newer product called Prodex that is similar to double bubble insulation but with a better performance rating. It's supposedly rated anywhere from R-7 to R-16 depending on the application.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/prodex1_zps73e18953.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/prodex1_zps73e18953.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/prodex2_zpsf8a49808.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/prodex2_zpsf8a49808.jpg.html)
I stapled the radiant barrier between my ceiling joists leaving a 1 inch space between the insulation and the roof to allow for venting.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/prodex3_zps9163a29b.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/prodex3_zps9163a29b.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/prodex5_zpsb3246b5d.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/prodex5_zpsb3246b5d.jpg.html)
Then above my collar ties in the attic I stapled another layer to the underside of the roof rafters leaving another 5 1/2 inches of dead air space. I left a 4 inch space at the peak to vent the warm air. I'll be using R-19 Batt insulation between the rafters that are below the attic and will use R-19 batts in the walls without the radiant barrier.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/prodex4_zps0d53a557.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/prodex4_zps0d53a557.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/prodex6_zps40dcbb72.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/prodex6_zps40dcbb72.jpg.html)
completed attic. I'll be blowing in cellulose insulation once the tongue in groove ceiling is installed.
Busy busy....Lots of good progress at the homestead in the last couple of weeks. I took about a week putting R-19 batt insulation into the walls. It was pretty muggy so I could only stand working for about 2 hours at a time before the fiberglass started getting into my pores and irritating me. Got it done though and the difference in comfort levels in the place is amazing.
after the insulation I could FINALLY start the wall finishing phase and I installed wainscoating and trim. Very happy with how this looks. I ripped some furring strips out of my 2x8 rafters tails that were 1/4" thick to fasten the tongue and groove wainscoating. My bottom trim (5 1/2" wide) and my top trim piece (3 1/2" wide) were fastened to a furring strip that was 1/2" thick to give the appearance of the trim standing out 1/4".
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/wainscoat3_zpsfa1b32c1.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/wainscoat3_zpsfa1b32c1.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/wainscoat2_zps5b829685.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/wainscoat2_zps5b829685.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/wainscoat6_zps70d43404.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/wainscoat6_zps70d43404.jpg.html)
I also had a local dry waller come in to hang my drywall in the main portion of the house. The labor for hanging 33 4x12 sheets was $275....for that price I'd be crazy to do it myself. I'm also going to pay to have it taped and finished after the 4th of July holiday.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/wainscoatbuiltin1_zpsad9497cd.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/wainscoatbuiltin1_zpsad9497cd.jpg.html)
Built in that is the same height as my kitchen counters will be (36") and will be topped with concrete countertop to match the kitchen.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/drywalldownstairs4_zpsa55c899e.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/drywalldownstairs4_zpsa55c899e.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/drywalldownstairs2_zps7a9fd10e.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/drywalldownstairs2_zps7a9fd10e.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/drywallloft1_zpsf0910ee7.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/drywallloft1_zpsf0910ee7.jpg.html)
After the drywall I started to finish the accent wall on the outside of the upstairs bedroom above the living area. I used exterior log siding to get the look I wanted and really like how it's turning out. I'll have to finish this after the Holiday.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/accentwall4_zps5a45930f.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/accentwall4_zps5a45930f.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/accentwall2_zpse3baf8e0.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/accentwall2_zpse3baf8e0.jpg.html)
It's look good Dave! I like the wood look at the bottom of the wall. You should be pumped!
Looking good. d*
Hard to believe they can get R-16 out of that thin layer of insulation. Pretty amazing, if true.
Getting excited Colchester...the end is within sight now :)
Archimedes, that insulation states that it can be up to R-16 "based on application". I installed it based on reccomendation and with as much care as possible and I must say that I'm amazed with it's performance in an unconditioned space so far. Although I'd agree with you that R-16 seems hard to believe with such a thin piece of material.
Dave,
Your project looks so good and has been very inspiring to me. The craftsmanship is amazing👍. We have started and passed our footer inspection on Tuesday. I will be working on getting my thread started for our Victoria and hope to come close to what you have created. Hope all is well, happy 4th!
Josh, thanks for the kind words. I'm glad to hear that you're getting up and running. Lots of work getting where I am now and still quite a bit to go but we are planning for a November move in date. ??? We are about 2 weeks ahead of schedule for that but i'm not letting that date make me skimp on the details.
It's been almost 2 months since I've posted anything and I've been pretty lazy. Not lazy in building but in uploading pics and posting them. I'm pretty happy with the progress I've been making and am still on schedule for my November move in date.
I've built the carcasses for the kitchen cabinets using a Kreg pocket hole joinery device. This thing is really a great building tool. I've never built anything as delicate as cabinets and they are of professional quality.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Cabinettokick_zps5a005291.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/Cabinettokick_zps5a005291.jpg.html)
I started my cabinets by building the base from the wall to the toe kick and shimmed them level. this took a full day but the level platform made things much easier when I was installing my cabinet boxes.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Cabinets9_zps732cb93b.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/Cabinets9_zps732cb93b.jpg.html)
I used 3/4 inch birch plywood for the carcasses.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Ceiling2_zps36272dd9.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/Ceiling2_zps36272dd9.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Cabinets1_zps8789141a.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/Cabinets1_zps8789141a.jpg.html)
Kreg pocket hole jig.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Cabinets2_zps94f454b1.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/Cabinets2_zps94f454b1.jpg.html)
putting the face frames together for the cabinets.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Cabinets4_zps9f89cbbb.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/Cabinets4_zps9f89cbbb.jpg.html)
I also used 3/4 inch birch plywood for the face frames.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Cabinets5_zps4c86c305.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/Cabinets5_zps4c86c305.jpg.html)
I am planning on pouring concrete for my countertops and have been waiting for my sink and cooktop to come in on special order so I could move forward with building the forms for the pour. The sink is all done and I just received the cook top so the form for that will be built within the next few days.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/ConcreteCountertopsfromAbove_zps3dfb41c2.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/ConcreteCountertopsfromAbove_zps3dfb41c2.jpg.html)
The countertop forms are built for 2" thick countertops.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Sink5_zpse4fbce6d.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/Sink5_zpse4fbce6d.jpg.html)
This is the form for the under mount farmhouse (apron) sink.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Sink4_zpsc8228a02.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/Sink4_zpsc8228a02.jpg.html)
form installed over sink.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Sink2_zpsfcecfe75.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/Sink2_zpsfcecfe75.jpg.html)
the sink is a 60/40 with a 10" deep basin. Will seem like a swimming pool after RV life!
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/doubleovenincabinet_zps809e050f.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/doubleovenincabinet_zps809e050f.jpg.html)
27" double oven cabinet.
I needed to build the 3 gable attic vents before I could move forward with installing the ceiling. Otherwise I'd have to belly crawl through the attic to install them.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/GableVEnt2_zps9451b4bb.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/GableVEnt2_zps9451b4bb.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/GableVentFinished_zps9500dce1.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/GableVentFinished_zps9500dce1.jpg.html)
I finished the T&G ceiling. I used 74 1x8x12's and 2 1/2 gallons of semi gloss polyurethane. It's amazing that the house has drank 10 gallons of that stuff already.....will be glad when that process is over!
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Ceiling_zps9a569054.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/Ceiling_zps9a569054.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/ceilingfinished2_zps2e74f4aa.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/ceilingfinished2_zps2e74f4aa.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/ceilingfinished1_zps531f3c2f.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/ceilingfinished1_zps531f3c2f.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/ceilingfinished3_zpsdcec77d2.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/ceilingfinished3_zpsdcec77d2.jpg.html)
I built a coat rack/bench seat with built in storage for gloves and hats in the laundry room. This was also built using pocket hole joinery.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/laundryroombuiltin1_zpsff06e9ac.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/laundryroombuiltin1_zpsff06e9ac.jpg.html)
This is the base to my coat rack. We'll be able to slide shoes underneath and store hats and gloves in the bench seat.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/laundryroombuiltin2_zps477e4c5c.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/laundryroombuiltin2_zps477e4c5c.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/laundryroombuiltin3_zps8d399df3.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/laundryroombuiltin3_zps8d399df3.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/laundryroombuiltin4_zpscf3d7328.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/laundryroombuiltin4_zpscf3d7328.jpg.html)
On a lighter note, we have a few additions to the chicken coop. 2 of our hens went broody and they hatched 9 of the 11 eggs that they were sitting on. We've had a couple of attacks by what we think were hawks so we have 5 left.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/MomandChicks_zps4e806ed9.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/MomandChicks_zps4e806ed9.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/ChicksinGarden_zps4c96ec18.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/ChicksinGarden_zps4c96ec18.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/chickspullets_zpsf0e97088.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/chickspullets_zpsf0e97088.jpg.html)
and here I thought I was glad to have my windows and door in... That craftsmanship is amazing!
Dave - such awesome work! The pocket joiner does make it easier, but it still takes a lot of skill to create all that you've done. Very, very nice.
Colchester/Rich2Vermont, thanks for the compliments. I'm lucky since this house happens to be my full time job so I can really pay attention to the details.
One thing about having a small house (beside the cheaper utility costs) is that it doesn't take very long to paint. We primed the walls yesterday and put 4 different samples on, made our decision and got them painted today. We went with a bright red color for the kitchen area and end wall of the larger loft and a light olive color for the laundry room and the remainder of the living area. Here's a few pics so you can get the jist, although pics don't really do it justice.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/colorsfinal3_zpsff476a93.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/colorsfinal3_zpsff476a93.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/colorsfinal1_zps195cb5a0.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/colorsfinal1_zps195cb5a0.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/colorsfinal6_zpsa6962a1b.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/colorsfinal6_zpsa6962a1b.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/colorsfinal9_zps720ad401.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/colorsfinal9_zps720ad401.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/colorsfinal5_zps39223656.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/colorsfinal5_zps39223656.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/colorsfinal8_zps80db7794.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/colorsfinal8_zps80db7794.jpg.html)
In the past 2 days I've tried to tap into my creative side by giving a shot at building the kitchen island that I've been putting off. I'm glad that I procrastinated and saved this for last because I was able to refine my skills with my tools while building the regular kitchen cabinets and that really made a difference.
Since everyone on here loves visuals so much I've put a step by step pictorial. Here goes:
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/kitchenisland1_zps40d930bb.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/kitchenisland1_zps40d930bb.jpg.html)
similar to the way I built my kitchen cabinets I started with layout lines on the floor to make sure I was starting square.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/kitchenisland3_zps71ec596f.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/kitchenisland3_zps71ec596f.jpg.html)
I used 2x4 blocking for a solid base and for nailers.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/kitchenisland4_zps9b0f53ee.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/kitchenisland4_zps9b0f53ee.jpg.html)
3/4 inch birch plywood for the base and the main uprights. assembled using my pocket hole jig. Love that thing!
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/kitchenisland6_zps8a532ef4.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/kitchenisland6_zps8a532ef4.jpg.html)
I used 3/8" wainscoating for the 2 sides which will be open shelving. The front spindles are 35 inches tall and are fastened to the floor with a normal 2 1/2" screw with the head cut off so it could be threaded on. The corner blocking is made from 1x4 stock.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/kitchenisland9_zps7d3ab035.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/kitchenisland9_zps7d3ab035.jpg.html)
face frames cut to fit.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/kitchenisland12_zpse688a453.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/kitchenisland12_zpse688a453.jpg.html)
face frames were assembled. The indentations of the structural 6x6 posts were filled with 1/4" birch plywood. The shelving was installed into the 2 side shelves.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/kitchenisland13_zps2754240f.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/kitchenisland13_zps2754240f.jpg.html)
The last thing I did was make some trim to dress things up.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/kitchenisland14_zps12715ae9.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/kitchenisland14_zps12715ae9.jpg.html)
OK, so my wife asked me what the point of the spindles are and I said "uuuuum they look good" after she mentioned it I thought, they really serve no structural purpose other than decoration. I told her that they were screwed and glued into place but that isn't something that a power saw wouldn't fix. We are playing the spindles by ear for now though.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/butcherblock1_zpsf69a9a59.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/butcherblock1_zpsf69a9a59.jpg.html)
I got a GREAT DEAL on this butcher block material from our local sawmill! I paid $100 for over 50 board ft of perfectly planed and squared Black Walnut and Ash. I originally planned on an end grain butcher block but after laying the material out and finding that it fit absolutely perfect without any cutting other than trimming the ends i'm thinking that a side grain butcher block would be best. I do know that an end grain butcher block lasts longer but I figure this 3" thick stock will more than outlast me. Anybody have any thoughts on why I shouldn't go with a side grain block like I have pictured?
That is going to be quite possibly the most beautiful island ever! Your build is really looking great! Please post as many pictures as you can when you do the counter tops, we are going to try to do the same on ours, and we'd love to see how others make them.
Mwhutch, there are a bunch of how to videos about pouring countertops on YouTube and I was also able to find some good stuff on pinterest. I'll post as much info as I can for you when I get to that point. I'm gonna get the bathroom built before I do any concrete in the kitchen though. I'll be doing some concrete work in the bath also and I'm waiting until all the forms are built so I can do all of my pouring in one day. I'd say we'll be ready come the beginning of October. Thanks for the kind words and interest.
read entire thread as well as the tool shed build , amazing. its also amazing to me that you really have no prior construction exp yet you pulled this off like a BOSS ... new occupation homebuilder, cabinet maker , hire a few guys u r in business .
Jimbo, Thanks for the kudos. It's true that I have no prior building experience (other than smaller projects). Like I've said I am tackling this project full time like it's any other job. I'm working from 7:30 am to 4pm Monday through Friday and sometimes Saturdays when i'm behind schedule. The entire project has taken almost twice as long as originally planned but after I got the roof on I sat down and did some hard figuring and allotted myself a certain number of days for each phase. I have a November 1st move in date and am really trying to stay on schedule since we wanna do Thanksgiving in our home this year. I gave myself 21 days to finish the kitchen and my 21st day was today. Obviously not done yet but I finished the laundry room 10 days ahead of what I allotted myself there so I have a few more days to go. Tomorrow I start the bathroom so I can get all of my concrete forms built before pouring the kitchen (will be pouring the bathroom sink and a ledge around the bathtub also).
as far as running a crew.....HaHa.....I'd never be able to make any money running a crew because I work too slow d* of course maybe the crew would work faster than me :). I've been volunteering with our church recently rebuilding stairs and building a couple wheelchair ramps for some needy folks around here, that's pretty satisfying so i'll probably stick to that. Of course volunteers don't make any money either.
Cabinet maker is a possibility though. My plan has always been to build a workshop after the house and build furniture through the winter to sell. Cabinets are pretty precise but i'm getting pretty good at them. Spent the last 2 days building my upper kitchen cabinet carcasses and am VERY happy with them!
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/kitchencabinetsupper1_zps2b0f2811.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/kitchencabinetsupper1_zps2b0f2811.jpg.html)
carcasses are made from 3/4" birch plywood.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/kitchencabinetsupper5_zps03378742.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/kitchencabinetsupper5_zps03378742.jpg.html)
My wife has always talked about having a plate rack in her kitchen and apparently a full setting consists of 12 plates so I had to accommodate our soon to be new plates. The wine rack seemed like a good choice for above the plates and is fairly decorative.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/downstairs1_zps6a6ba44d.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/downstairs1_zps6a6ba44d.jpg.html)
i said it once i'll say it again ,"LIKE A BOSS"!! thats a fine looking kitchen there .shoot i'd invite the church over sometime for burgers or somethin and let'em see that sweet house , might round up some cabinet business & whatnot .
In the past week I've been working on the bathroom and have made some significant progress in a fairly short time. I built the Jetted tub base and tested the jets out to make sure they worked before I framed the surround (tub was bought used for $125). Then I built the sink base and linen closet carcasses before framing the shower and toilet wall, pouring the 2 layers of the shower pan and starting the shower surround. I also finished my butcher block on the kitchen island and built a medicine cabinet and some decorative shelving in the bathroom.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/bathroomday2-2_zps889be5f5.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/bathroomday2-2_zps889be5f5.jpg.html)
Tub base framed with 2x4's and shimmed level. Tub surround face frames built using 3/4" plywood will house 3 access panels for tub plumbing.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/bathroomday3-2_zps23d2c1f0.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/bathroomday3-2_zps23d2c1f0.jpg.html)
Sink base and linen closet carcasses.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/bathroomday4-1_zps9b3924f5.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/bathroomday4-1_zps9b3924f5.jpg.html)
Shower and toilet wall framed. This took up 36 inches from the bedroom addition.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/bathroomday5-2_zpsb6ab2066.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/bathroomday5-2_zpsb6ab2066.jpg.html)
30lb felt paper on the sub-floor and wire mesh on top. 2x6 blocking along the floor will give a solid backing to pour the mortar.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/bathroomday5-3_zps2a637a2a.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/bathroomday5-3_zps2a637a2a.jpg.html)
The first of 2 layers of sand mix (mortar) graded at 1/4" per foot.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/butcherblockglued1_zps186bd7fb.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/butcherblockglued1_zps186bd7fb.jpg.html)
While waiting for the first layer of mortar to set I finished gluing my butcher block.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/butcherblocksanded1_zpsfc1f5558.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/butcherblocksanded1_zpsfc1f5558.jpg.html)
Then I sanded it smooth and rounded the corners using my orbital sander with first 60 grit then 80, 120 and finally 240.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/butcherblockoiled1_zps90f9922e.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/butcherblockoiled1_zps90f9922e.jpg.html)
And finished it using linseed oil. It turned out to be a little darker than I imagined it would but looks good.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/butcherblockoiled2_zpscd4ac570.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/butcherblockoiled2_zpscd4ac570.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/bathroomday6-1_zps0d91078e.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/bathroomday6-1_zps0d91078e.jpg.html)
With the butcher block finished and the first layer of shower mortar dry I was ready to prepare for the second layer by laying this 40 mil polyurethane underlayment.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/bathroomday6-2_zpsb794308f.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/bathroomday6-2_zpsb794308f.jpg.html)
2nd layer of mortar poured and the drain height set.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/bathroomday9-4_zps8cc13c6f.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/bathroomday9-4_zps8cc13c6f.jpg.html)
Then the Hardi-backer board was put on 2 walls and the shower curb.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/bathroomday8-1_zps3edcb44f.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/bathroomday8-1_zps3edcb44f.jpg.html)
Shelving above the foot of the tub and the back of the medicine cabinet to the right.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/bathroomday9-1_zps25afaef9.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/bathroomday9-1_zps25afaef9.jpg.html)
Finished medicine cabinet.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/bathroomday9-2_zpsafedc5e1.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/bathroomday9-2_zpsafedc5e1.jpg.html)
Later i'll build 3 1/4" shelves inside.
:) Wow! I am loving all the attention to detail, and love you are putting into your new home. It's stunning! I look forward to viewing the progress made.
Ha very creative way to clamp your glue up! I like it. Everything is looking great, when I build a cabin someday this will be the standard I shoot for.
Thanks to all for the kind words. It's been a long road to get to where we are but we're very glad we stuck to it.
Mike870, The picture of the tie down straps that I used to clamp the butcher block is kind of deceiving. I didn't use the strap to clamp the entire thing. I first glued and clamped the center portion that would be between the 2 6x6 posts using regular wood working clamps. Then after setting that portion between the 2 posts (after the glue dried overnight) I was able to determine if i'd need to notch out the outside material to fit around my posts. Luckily it fit almost perfect and I had to notch out very little of the outer stock. The pic of the straps shows how I had to clamp just the portion that fit around my posts. A little bit of redneck engineering but turned out to work really well.
This weekend we did something a little bit different. Instead of spending Saturday working on the house we ended up helping a member of our church cut sorghum cane and process it into sorghum. Pretty interesting process that's shown below:
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/MAKINGMOLASSES2_zps4a8bcfaa.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/MAKINGMOLASSES2_zps4a8bcfaa.jpg.html)
Sorghum cane. Leaves need to be stripped to ready it for the juice extraction.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/MAKINGMOLASSES4_zpsf22bb100.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/MAKINGMOLASSES4_zpsf22bb100.jpg.html)
this is an old sorghum cane press that is being run by a belt being driven from a 1951 Farmall model A. We used to own a Farmall Super A when I was a kid and ran a buzz saw this same way to cut slab wood to heat with. The man on the left is a 92 year old WWII vet and is sharp as a tack.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/MAKINGMOLASSES5_zpsd97a8cb1.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/MAKINGMOLASSES5_zpsd97a8cb1.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/MAKINGMOLASSES6_zps4a79512f.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/MAKINGMOLASSES6_zps4a79512f.jpg.html)
Here's a 150 gallon tank that was fabricated just for reducing the sorghum. Just for an FYI out of 1/4 acre of planted sorghum we got 260 gallons of juice which reduced down 10 times to 26 gallons.
I'm finally through with my concrete counters except for the polishing and it's definitely been an ordeal. We used a 5000 PSI concrete made specifically for countertops by Sakrete. I mixed it on the dry side because too wet a mixture weakens the cured concrete. If I were to do it again though I would have added a bit more water so it was a little easier to work with. I used rebar along all edges of the countertops and all cutouts. I used a sawzall with the blade removed to vibrate under the counters and along all the edges and it really did a good job filling the voids.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/concretecounters3_zpsd04f9581.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/concretecounters3_zpsd04f9581.jpg.html)
Empty countertop forms with rebar reinforcing the edges and pvc siliconed in place for the plumbing fixtures.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/concretecounters4_zps4fbc441d.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/concretecounters4_zps4fbc441d.jpg.html)
I was the mixer.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/Concretecounters1_zpsaece5fdf.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/Concretecounters1_zpsaece5fdf.jpg.html)
while the wife helped with the finishing.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/concretecounters2_zps24318df9.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/concretecounters2_zps24318df9.jpg.html)
and after a long day the kitchen was done.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/concretetubform_zpsa46c5b81.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/concretetubform_zpsa46c5b81.jpg.html)
the next day I poured the bathroom concrete.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/concretecounters5_zps31e0e8c4.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/concretecounters5_zps31e0e8c4.jpg.html)
I waited 2 days to remove the forms and was pleased with the results. The edges had some rough pitting but read that it was fairly normal and also read to remedy this you can mix a "slurry" of 2 parts Portland cement and one part sand bedding mix to a fairly soupy mixture to fill in the rough spots.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/concretecounters8_zpsdbfd4629.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/concretecounters8_zpsdbfd4629.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/concretetubfinished_zps19525129.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/concretetubfinished_zps19525129.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/concretevanityfinished_zpsc32aaecb.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/concretevanityfinished_zpsc32aaecb.jpg.html)
I wanted to give the concrete plenty of time to harden before I polished it so I shifted gears and worked on my woodstove hearth and surround. I wanted to house our flat screen TV above the woodstove and in front of the stove pipe so I had to get creative with some heat shielding.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/woodstovesurround1_zps33b635ad.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/woodstovesurround1_zps33b635ad.jpg.html)
For the hearth I used 4 inch block and paver bricks as a base. The upright posts are 4x4 with 6x8 cross members supporting 6x12s used as a wide mantle.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/woodstovesurround3_zps2c4417d0.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/woodstovesurround3_zps2c4417d0.jpg.html)
I used rebar painted black to dress up and shield the surround and used a piece of 1/2 inch hardie backer painted with high temp black paint to shield the stairs and wall.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/woodstovesurround12_zps34c1780d.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/woodstovesurround12_zps34c1780d.jpg.html)
Here's the finished product. More 1/2 inch hardie backer in back of the TV surround and above the stove.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/woodstovesurround7_zps33961321.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/woodstovesurround7_zps33961321.jpg.html)
The right side of the enclosure will be used to hold wood.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/woodstovesurround8_zps7b5759df.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/woodstovesurround8_zps7b5759df.jpg.html)
In back of the TV enclosure I've used brick around the stove pipe to act as a heat sink and a partial heat shield and also is a decorative addition. It's dry stacked for now but will soon be mortared into place.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/rangehood_zps7012a310.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/rangehood_zps7012a310.jpg.html)
Heres a smaller project. A wall mounted range vent hood that uses a 6" vent to the outside.
The next project is flooring. Moving fast to make the November move in date.
OK...I'll be the one to ask. What are the minimum clearances on that stove?? I'm shocked if the manufacturer/UL approves such a small distance to the top of that alcove. And the connector pipe? Is it doublewall or single?
The minimum Alcove height (if combustible) is 54 inches. This alcove is 24 inches above the stove with 1/2 inch cement board (not combustible) and a 1 1/2 inch airspace between it and the combustible mantle. the stove pipe is a single wall 6 inch pipe with 2 larger 8" stove pipes around it with 1 inch standoffs from the 6" inch pipe and 2" from another layer of cement board which has a 1/2 inch stand off from the combustible mantle material.
You are correct that this application isn't per the manufacturer but given the first trial of 3 hours sustained burn time and the second of 5 hours of sustained burn time (this trial I purposely over fired it to 700F) I'm satisfied so far. More trials of higher intensity and longer burn times are coming and if i'm dissatisfied with any of them I'll either put another layer of cement board above the stove with another 1 1/2" stand-off and or replace the single 6" single wall with 8" surrounding pipes and stand offs with a triple wall pipe where it passes through the mantle. So far testing is going well though.
Here's a picture of the alcove shield and stand offs. You can also kind of see the 8" stove pipe meeting the heat shied.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/woodstoveheatshield_zpsca73ea0f.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/woodstoveheatshield_zpsca73ea0f.jpg.html)
The past 2 days were spent installing flooring. We decided to go with laminate instead of hardwood. The laminate that we used was a 5 inch wide Pergo max "Hand scraped Hickory". It was extremely easy to work with and installed in about 15 hours working alone.
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/floorfinished1_zps8a0a308f.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/floorfinished1_zps8a0a308f.jpg.html)
(https://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z477/navydave4/floorfinished2_zps7dafdddf.jpg) (https://s1191.photobucket.com/user/navydave4/media/floorfinished2_zps7dafdddf.jpg.html)
What was the determining factor on the laminate vs hardwood? Home Depot has some hand scraped solid wood flooring for, I think $4.89 per square foot. Pretty expensive but not too bad considering some of the other flooring.
I have no idea about your TV/woodburner setup but it looks a little scary. I would wonder what your insurance agent would say?
The rebar on the sides is a really good idea especially if you have toddlers/kids around.
Grover, the determining factors for the laminate were:
1. Cost - at $2.69/ sq ft I was able to install the floor for a little over $1000 which is just about half the cost of solid wood. There's no doubt that solid wood would withstand the test of time better but where we stand with funds right now it was a decision we are happy with especially with the look we've achieved with this product.
2. Ease of installation - this product had a foam underlay already laminated to it and with the ease of trimming the boards with a saber saw and it's easy snap together installation I was able to install it in minimal time. With the move in date quickly approaching any saved time is welcomed.
For the wood stove surround...fire scares me as well but the testing on the heat shielding is proving to be successful. I definitely will not need to add any additional layers of shielding above the stove but have decided to replace the 6" single wall and 8 " shield where it goes through the mantle with a length of triple wall pipe. I've decided to do this not because of any heat build up I've noticed but because I believe the triple wall pipe will offer added protection to the mantle. Like I said, fire scares me too and I'll sleep better at night knowing the triple wall length is in place.
Oh, I love how beautiful your house is looking. I admit I was a bit of a hardwood snob but several years ago put in some good quality laminate that looked handscraped. It looks gorgeous and has held up very well. Yours looks vey nice! Do you think you'll be in for Thanksgivig?
I love you place but not that setup over the stove. Don't like that one bit. You may have cement board directly over the stove but still have those beams on the sides. Is it really worth risking your whole house you have put so much time into? It's your place, just something to think k about.
Quote from: NavyDave on October 17, 2013, 10:25:13 PM
You are correct that this application isn't per the manufacturer but ...
... but I can't imagine an insurance adjuster or a fire marshall countenancing this installation and I can not sit idly by without comment on the matter. I hope nobody copies this.
Also what about front clearances. The way I read my stove manual the posts out in front at diagonals would be too close. ??? YMMV
Quote from: MountainDon on November 11, 2013, 09:44:01 AM
... but I can't imagine an insurance adjuster or a fire marshall countenancing this installation and I can not sit idly by without comment on the matter. I hope nobody copies this.
I am pretty sure it would not pass the 'required' state inspection here. Here it is the plumbing inspector that is also loaded down with HVAC and wood stoves as well. He was giving my stove, stove pipe and chimney the hairy eye ball Thursday when he was here - though was not called to inspect such.
Where have you been Dave? Missing your updates.