Web Soil Survey...

Started by ajbremer, January 03, 2011, 07:27:02 AM

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ajbremer

For a moment I thought that I discovered a great soil site when in fact, MountainDon answered one of my post and he gave me the link.

First, I went to the online Soil Survey Manuscripts site here:

http://soils.usda.gov/survey/online_surveys/

Then I picked my state and county and was able to read all about my area. Then I got on the link that Don gave me. I think it's a very good resource.

It ended up telling me all about my particular soil, here's the report it gave me (I think it's telling me I have pretty good soil for pier and beam? Please let me know)

===============================
McIntosh County, Oklahoma
25 - Kamie fine sandy loam, 1 to 3 percent slopes
Map Unit Setting
Elevation: 500 to 1000 feet
Mean annual precipitation: 39 to 51 inches
Mean annual air temperature: 59 to 64 degrees F
Frost-free period: 200 to 230 days
Map Unit Composition
Kamie and similar soils: 85 percent
Description of Kamie
Setting

Landform: Paleoterraces
Landorm position (three-dimensional): Tread
Down-slope shape: Convex
Across-slope shape: Convex
Parent material: Loamy and sandy alluvium
Properties and qualities
Slope: 1 to 3 percent
Depth to restrictive feature: More than 80 inches
Drainage class: Well drained
Capacity of the most limiting layer to transmit water (Ksat): Moderately hight to high (0.60 to 2.00 in/hr)
Depth to water table: More than 80 inches
Frequency of flooding: None
Frequency of ponding: None
Available water capacity: High (about 9.0 inches)
Interpretive groups
Land capability (nonirrigated): 2e
Ecological site: Sandy Savannah PE 66-72 (R118BY0750K)
Typical profile
0 to 18 inches: Fine sandy loam
18 to 60 inches: Sandy clay loam
60 to 78 inches: Find sandy loam
==============================

Once your at this soil site, read through it carefully - it's a little tricky. I simply kept zooming in on the map and made sure I picked the right tabs at the right time. Please let me know what you think of my soil description. I will make a little video of me digging it and testing it myself very soon.

Here's the link that Don gave me: http://websoilsurvey.nrcs.usda.gov/app/
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

glenn kangiser

I'm not an engineer but would guess from the description that it would want a decent sized base under the pier, so if you have freezes, something like the Bigfoot would be ideal, or at least a decent sized reinforced concrete base under the post.  Seems the sandy clay loam would want the weight distributed a bit for more bearing capacity.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.


ajbremer

Thanks for that information Glenn. What is a 'Big Foot'? I've looked at so many different types of pier/beam methods I'm getting confused. What's the simplest one for my scenario? I plan on going to Lowe's today and I'll ask some questions there and take a peak at a couple of books. Thank you again...al
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

astidham

My family lived in McIntosh county for several years
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

ajbremer

astidham, have you built with pier and beam before? I just thought you might have some suggestions or input. Nice to see you here sir.
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.


firefox

Thanks ajbremer,
I was able to get a read out for my property.
Bruce
Bruce & Robbie
MVPA 23824

MountainDon

BigFoot


Must have been the other Don(_P) on the soil. I've seen that website before but had forgotten about it as our spot in the mountains is one of the few that is not included.  :(   Maybe that's good?  Shows there's little of value other than pretty views, lots of trees, lots of pumice, one volcano and not too many people.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

glenn kangiser

First time I actually found mine though I have looked before - thanks, Al.

You may have to order the big foot if you want it - I see Don posted a link.  Otherwise a wide based concrete on the bottom with a foundation grade PT post could work - Big Foot is better for frost though.

"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

Don_P

I posted this info on your other thread but to get things together for future reference;
I've swiped a pic from one of John's old posts that will help with the next step, getting the 2 letter soil class

Then this table is from the codebook giving allowable bearing strength of the soil.


I'm not a geotech by any stretch but I believe your "Kamie" soils would be ML.

Pier and beam is technically an engineered foundation, not because of bearing characteristics but for resistance to lateral loads, wind and seismic.


astidham

my area is thick clay.
I rented an auger to drill 12" holes 3' deep for a pier and beam foundation but couldn't break through all the sandstone.
for under $300.00 I had a backhoe come in a dig me (2) 33' long by ~18" wide and ~ 24" deep footings.

~500.00 filled them with concrete





"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

ajbremer


Those are great pics astidham, thanks. What did you end up building on top of them - a countryplans place?

Have you seen my 'soil adventure' videos? There here: http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=10064.0
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

astidham

Quote from: ajbremer on January 04, 2011, 05:43:02 AM

Those are great pics astidham, thanks. What did you end up building on top of them - a countryplans place?

Have you seen my 'soil adventure' videos? There here: http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=10064.0

I built John's 20x30.
I will watch your video as soon as I finish posting this.

Here is my build thread
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=8931.0
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

boltpost

I used the site too! http://soils.usda.gov/survey/printed_surveys/  This gave me the soils information I just might need for the permiting process.  The site was too easy to use, and having the 18 page soils report emailed to me in five minutes was great. This screen shot of my soils report shows cloud cover, but you can tell the property is covered in shrubs and trees, which may appear as dirt, and yet, it is Yaquina loamy fine sand. Thanks for the original post !
Small Beach Cabin in Progress
http://under600squarefeet.wordpress.com/

MidwestEric

Nice link.  As an FYI we had to pay a soil analysis guy to test for our septic.  He easily identified the soils and noted in his report what was listed on the USGS soil survey was not accurate - we had some other kind of dirt.  I can't make heads or tails out of it, as all the soil types listed were 3 letters, not the 2 I see listed on soil type charts and such.  I know we had loam and clay and drained fairly slow. That made the septic an expensive $14,000 Presby affair.  The soil had 2,000 PSF load bearing capacity but was lousy for septic.



boltpost

After my septic perk test, I too will have an expensive system.  Above ground, sand mound, and right to the left of my planned porch.  I hope to hide mine with lawn on top and brush around the base.  One thing I did like about the report was flood levels, water table level, and longitude and latitude.  I used this on my site plan, and I would like to think it will help.  Thanks for the comments.
Small Beach Cabin in Progress
http://under600squarefeet.wordpress.com/

hpinson

#15
Just a note of caution on using this tool.  Take to heart the message in the image above-- Warning: soil map may not be accurate at this scale.  These soil maps are fairly generalized-- sometimes they will be right on, sometimes not, and certainly no better, and sometimes lots worse, than the scale they were digitized at.  Some ground-truth verification by a soils engineer would make sense. In my case, the map DOES NOT reflect the reality of the localized soil conditions.

UK4X4

mine was pretty bang on - but county would only accept "a geotechnical report" for my plot

engineers helping engineers...but not the client !

umtallguy

the soil surveys are done off aerial photos, with some field checking, so they are generally accurate but not perfectly. Read the soils carefully too, many of them are 30%A and 70% B etc, so it can be different.