In George Nashs book (do it youreself house building)His info on surface bonded concrete layup seems very good to me and I would appreciate input on this. the information on this site,its links, Johns plans and Mr Nashs book are Great.
I believe this is what you are talking about - it is from the free concrete info from Quikcrete in our links section. I think I have seen special blocks for this method at the big box stores also.
http://www.quikrete.com/diy/QUIKWALLSurface-BondingCement.html
Thanks Glenn I must have overlooked that link somehow?
Actually that one was buried in another one. I just remembered reading about it a while back. :)
I've used a fair amount of surface bonding cement, but I've never had much luck with the "dry-stacking" procedure.
I find it much faster and easier to use mortar in the conventional way while laying block, leaving the mortar joints scraped flat (not "pointed") and applying the bonding cement afterwards ... for additional strength and some waterproofing.
Without the mortar joint, you lose the standard dimensions of laid block.
Rob Roy made the back wall of his first (bermed, green roof, cordwood masonry) house with the surface bonding system, using, IIRC 12"block. Don't have that book any more, don't think he was using special block for the purpose.
And, given the way the rest of the building was made, losing the nice even dimensions didn't matter very much at all.
Here's a description of the later home, "Earthwood."
http://www.motherearthnews.com/library/1995_April_May/Rob_Roy_s_Earthwood_Home
In picture 7 someone is putting 8" blocks long ways in the wall. It almost looks like they are what comes off the pallet--are they "stretchers?" as well as corners. Maybe not. it's an awfully small picture.
The article goes on to tell what they did in the way of surface bonding and waterproofing.