Cabin Ideas Please. What would you build?

Started by lonelytree, January 01, 2008, 06:37:52 PM

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MountainDon

Quote from: lonelytree on October 20, 2008, 09:34:02 PM

I figure for the first year or 2 I will have to run a generator at least 4-6 hours a day to finish out the cabin.


Give some thought to buying some rechargeable battery powered tools. Those tools have saved untold hours of wear and tear on our generator as well as saving fuel. Using less fuel on site also means less bother of hauling it. I can run the charger off a small inverter off the RV or truck battery.

I have Ryobi; circular saw, jig saw, 1/2" drill/driver, angle drill, reciprocating saw, and a couple of their flashlights. And their little chain saw. They all use the same 18 VDC pack. I have a couple of the Nicad (originals) and some newer lithium ones. The lithium last mush longer than the Nicad. The circular saw cuts 2x material and is wonderfully light to handle. They may not be the heaviest duty tools, but mine have worked well... don't hit nail when cutting with the circular saw.


Build an air port into the plumbing.  I have a small air compressor that I built into the RV. It "charges" a small (1 gallon) air tank. I can blast the water out of the system without the bother of rounding up the equipment. I plan on doing the same in the cabin we're building.

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Redoverfarm

Quote from: MountainDon on October 20, 2008, 09:51:34 PM

Give some thought to buying some rechargeable battery powered tools. Those tools have saved untold hours of wear and tear on our generator as well as saving fuel. Using less fuel on site also means less bother of hauling it. I can run the charger off a small inverter off the RV or truck battery.


Yes it's late on the east coast but I was desiging kitchen cabinets in bed and couldn't sleep.

I tried your trick Don with the inverter today and guess what. I ended up with a dead battery. No fault of the inverter as it is suppose to shut down when the voltage drops to 10.5 but it didn't. Well I didn't think it was I thought it was just a faulty connection and kept checking the clips to gain some use out of it.  I had only ran it a couple of hours.  Thinking back to this morning the truck was a little sluggish to start. Deisel at 26F.  I think I have a bad battery. Well at least one of them anyway.  They are the original since 99 so I am probably past due I guess.  Too many cold starts in that length of time I figure.  Anyway I will check it out in the morning.  Luckily a friend come by to check on me and had him to jump it.  Embarassing having a Nissan jump a Ford but what ever works huh.  It's not far to the cabin driving but I really didn't want to have to walk home.


MountainDon

I don't have that problem anymore.  :)  The Jeep has two batteries, one extra I added. When it's turned off the second is isolated from the rest of the system. When it's running a constant duty relay keeps it in the charging circuit. There's a push button switch to bring it on line to self-jump yourself. It's better than using one of those diode isolators as full voltage is passed to the batteries.

Of course you'd need to find room for 4 batteries...

QuoteThey are the original since 99 so I am probably past due I guess.

:o :o You guess!!!  d*   ;D
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Redoverfarm

Yeah I am like many Americans if it ain't broke don't fix it.  ;D

MountainDon

I quit taking chances with batteries when I started wandering around the boonies by myself. It never was as much of a worry way back when I had a manual transmission, a minimum of electrical equipment and I had a more cavalier attitude.

Now the Jeep (automatic, computer, inverters, PC computer, auxillary lights, winch...) gets one new battery every two years. The oldest is put in the starting battery position and the newest as the reserve. I've been using Optima red tops for many many years with good luck. Another plus is they can be mounted sideways or even upside down. I have one on end to make it fit under the hood.  [crz]
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


Whitlock

The Optima red tops are tops in my book bought two in 1995 one lasted 8 years and the other was in the wifes car until 2006.
Just bought a gel cell the other day don't know the brand I will have to look tomarrow it set me back 209.00 I hope it is as good as the optimas.
Make Peace With Your Past So It Won't Screw Up The Present

lonelytree

#106
The saga continues.

Pier bracing - Is there an easy way to cross brace this?I can do the alternative bracing, but looking for options.
[        32'     ]
    [      24'  ]
O-O-O-O-O-O
I   I            I
O  O           O  20'
I   I            I
O-O-O-O-O-O

O = Piers
I and - are beams


Freighting this weekend and next and.......

Thanks,
Mike

MaineRhino

This is a pic of my base, lots of diagonal bracing on the edges and down the center beam. I wish I had a better shot of it, but i'm sure you get the idea....



poppy

One thing to keep in mind relative to bracing is that they always need to be in pairs.  They don't always work very well individually in both tension and compression, so you need one to counteract the other.

Plus as illustrated by Rhino's cabin, brace in both width and length directions.

Unless I missed it, I didn't see how your posts are anchored to the ground.  Do the post pads just sit on the sand/gravel bed? If so, what prevents a good wind from shifting the foundation once the walls are up?

Not familiar with Alaska freeze/thaw cycles, but is frost heave an issue?


lonelytree

#109
Quote from: poppy on March 22, 2009, 05:29:58 PM
One thing to keep in mind relative to bracing is that they always need to be in pairs.  They don't always work very well individually in both tension and compression, so you need one to counteract the other.

Plus as illustrated by Rhino's cabin, brace in both width and length directions.

Unless I missed it, I didn't see how your posts are anchored to the ground.  Do the post pads just sit on the sand/gravel bed? If so, what prevents a good wind from shifting the foundation once the walls are up?

Not familiar with Alaska freeze/thaw cycles, but is frost heave an issue?

Frost jacking is a big issue. If you break the tundra, it will heave. All the old timers use a crib type system. There are many cabins with RR ties criss crossed under them. some VERY high. I will try to get a pic of one of the extreme examples. Unless someone comes up with a better idea, I am going to utilize a blend of alternative bracing and X bracing.

I have some snow to deal with first....

lonelytree

#110
Bracing

Floor

Hauling freight



Don_P

What connects the bracing to the posts and rim?

MountainDon

Looks like the sleds did a great job hauling materials.

When will the snow all be gone? Or mostly gone?
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

lonelytree

Quote from: Don_P on April 25, 2009, 12:48:53 PM
What connects the bracing to the posts and rim?

8" galv lag bolts with oversize washers. I personally dislike lag bolts. I predrilled for them and they really grab hard!


lonelytree

Quote from: MountainDon on April 25, 2009, 01:06:01 PM
Looks like the sleds did a great job hauling materials.

When will the snow all be gone? Or mostly gone?

Those beams are behind a 2007 300F Tundra. 277CC Rotax. Pulls very well. I was dragging them at about 30MPH and had plenty of throttle left.

The lake will be impassable by normal means most of the month of May. 1 year in 4 it is open for Memorial Day. I may try to haul freight again next weekend if I can do it safely.

Mike

lonelytree

#115
Lake opened up 31 May.

Leveled and squared it. Got 3 walls mostly up. Center beam up (6X12X20').




lonelytree

#116
6 June 09

Finished skinning wall - Braces in.


Aft loft

Front beam up. I do not know what it weighed. It was heavy and caused a bit of puckering. Needs squared and braced. Front loft faces north and will have northern lights for a view in the winter.



ots to do before I can get a roof on it. All the panels fit square with no trimming or making fit. Floor is solid and not bouncy. Immediate work area is actually clean and safe. Outside of that it is a sty. I need to get it roofed ASAP. May even pay to get it done.

On a sad note. My buddy got a 26 pound laker.... no pics yet. I was working, he was fishing.

Redoverfarm


lonelytree

#118

Ready to start roofing next weekend.

lonelytree

#119

Roof is on, almost dried in.

Anyone know a quick way to shine up the stove pipe? Solvent or cleaner on a pole?

Mike


poppy

Looking good.  [cool]

One question:  Unless there is more to do on the chimney, what's a good snow storm going to do to it?

MountainDon

Since it's a metal roof with a pretty good pitch I believe the snow will slide off with no problems long before there's any serious build up on the roof. Those braces will be a great assist in keeping it in place in windy weather as well.


No ideas for cleaning the exterior. Which raises the question, how will the chimney be cleaned? From the inside up, or ?
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

lonelytree

I have 90" of pipe below the ceiling box. I was told to use a trash bag with a flue brush to clean it. Just poke the rod through the bag and attach the brush. Rubber band the trash bag to the dripless adapter and keep adding sections until you hit the cap.

The roofer put some high quality sealant on the roof cap. Being a farm boy, I still want to put some tar on the seams.

I still need to get the wall behind the stove done. I plan to put sheetrock, then 1" spacers, then cement board, then tile. Underneath, I want to put a 2X10" riser with cement board and tile. Getting sheetrock in across the water may be a pain. I may cut the sections in half. More seams but less chance of damage.

MountainDon

 [cool]   I wouldn't want to try and do that one from the roof top.   ;D
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.