Deck Block - Uggggh!

Started by georgevacabin, August 24, 2007, 12:51:46 PM

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georgevacabin

I realize that this topic has probably been beaten to death but . . .

I will be building in Va and looking for the deck block with adjustable bracket used here http://www.coyotecottage.com/cabin/cabinconstruction/foundation.htm

Not really interested in making my own if I don't have to  :-/.  I know they are out there because there is a patent for them (can you tell I really want these? :o)

Thanks ahead of time!!!

n74tg

I don't know where to find them, but reading the CoyoteCottage info I came up with a question.

While the gravel will NOT frostheave, how about the soil underneath it?  And if it heaves differentially (more in some places, less in others), won't that stress and unlevel the house?

I'm not trying to rain on your parade, but I am interested in getting answers to the questions.  

My house building blog:

http://n74tg.blogspot.com/


MountainDon

It's a relatively simple matter to obtain a patent. Getting the patent into production is another story.

That said there are likely more places in the country where you can NOT easily obtain these than there are places where you can. I've never seen any here in my area of NM. They're too heavy to be shipped any distance with any economy, and probably not in sufficient demand in most places to bother with.

If you can't find them by asking locally, my guess is you will be making a mold or two and casting your own.  :(
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

firefox

Here is a suggestion. Get some standard concrete piers with the wood inserts.
Get some of the simpson stong tie brackets that look like the ones in the picture.
I just bought some for a project and they work great.
Get some pipe that will alow you to drill a hole into it closse to the size of the brackets threads,
so that it will slide into the hole and not wobble.
Drill a hole in the wood insert and press the pipe into place.
I would then put some sealer of some kind and if you want to get fancy cut out a piece of flashing and
make a cap for it so the water never gets to the wood. Be sure that the big washer sits on top of your
flashing, since this will help to seal everything.
Bruce
Bruce & Robbie
MVPA 23824

glenn kangiser

#4
I would be afraid of the wood splitting and no support into the block.

A pipe poured into a home made block would probably work better, then the threaded bracket with a nut and large plate washer.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.


firefox

I totally agree with Glenn. You are much better off pouring your own.  I'm not sure how much
the added pipe will help, but I think it is a good idea. It would be nice if you could find some
stainless pipe or tubbing the right size at a scrap yard.
Bruce
Bruce & Robbie
MVPA 23824

georgevacabin

Hello Folks,

Thanks for the input!  I've got some thinking to do and about a month to do it in.  I really appreciate the insight.  

Take care!

firefox

Here is an idea on how to make the forms. Not pretty, but should be
pretty easy to jury rig.

Get some large used tin cans from a restaurant, preferably
at  least as round as the base of one of those piers and as high.
Get a piece of plywood bigger than the base of the can.
drill a hole in the middle the size of the threaded part of the
simpson bracket. Now get a dowl that you can press into that hole
that is about an inch higher than the height of the can after it has been pressed into the base hole. Make shure that it is in there
tight and that it is accurately perpendicular.
Carefully locate the center of the bottom of the can and punch a hole
in it with a center punch.
Now hold the can over something that has the same size hole as a dowel and use a tool like maybe screw drivers or sockets to increase the size of the hole so that it gets to the size of the dowl.Push the
the jagged parts down flat on the other side.
Get some tubing that will slide over the dowel. I would use SS if you can get it. Optimally flare both ends.The total length should be the height of the can.
Now take the can right side up and slide it onto the dowl.
Now slide the piece of tubing onto the dowel.
Fill the can with concrete up to the top of the can and let it set.
When it is completely cured,
Lift it off of the base and remove the tin can and you are done.
Bruce
Bruce & Robbie
MVPA 23824