Hello,
I want to put a screen in porch with a shed roof on the back of my house. Plan is for a 4/12 pitch.  Because of the layout of the house, I want to attach the back of the roof to the house several feet above the second story floor. 
I wonder if you are allowed to attach the board to which the rafters attach onto the second story wall 2x4s or must that board attach to the joist board for the second story floor. I cannot do the latter.

Hello, surrounding the sunroom is not feasible, the area is narrow so there should not be a sunroom there, you can consider moving it somewhere else

A continuous footing is vastly superior to individual footings under each pier.  The continuous footing "ties" the foundation together, resisting any lateral movement from the bearing soils while providing support for individual piers distributed over a larger area compared with spot footings. Masonry (CMU) piers can be installed and tied to the continuous footing with rebar and filled voids in the CMU. Or a concrete pier can be poured in a form onto top of the continuous footing.

The plan is to go as deep or deeper than the historic frost depth?

.... do a search on elevated or raised foundation design. Southern Pine Assoc used to have info available on using a continuous footing and various types of pier-like supports for a wood floor assembly.

I use to use a slump cone and actually measure "slumps".  Every thing else being equal: the lower the slump, the stronger the concrete.  

BUT .. 3" slump is not very workable, and can tire muscles pretty soon if there is much manual placement required.  Its great for a massive monolithic pour.  I prefer 6" for my smaller DIY projects.  But as more water is added, more Portland cement should be added to the mix to keep the strength up. Talk to your concrete supplier about your plans.  They may suggest additives, such as retarders.   

I have used a pump truck but also hired a sub-contractor familiar with pumps .. .. because I was out of my depth.  I'm OK with a regular ready mix truck with pour-chutes, but no pumps please .. unless required.

I'm not a fan, and have no experience with pier foundations.  But I realize piers have their place and value in certain situations.

I tend to wonder about individual pier footings.  I would be more inclined to have three continuous footings with rebar turn-ups at each pier location.  This would, of course, cost more material .. but I would be more comfortable about stability.  Of course, every thing begins with knowledge of your property and the nature of your soil.

I have searched quite a bit on the internet. This is by far the best use of space I have ever seen for a 10x16 based foot print. My wife and I are soon to retire and I have been looking for ideas on how to downsize to something we will be able to live in and afford. 

Did you ever find your backup plans for this? if so I would be interested in donating to get a copy!

Amazing work and pictures!!!!

JRR
Thank you for the input, your concerns were my concerns exactly. I believe the Perkins builder brothers did a video with Crafted workshop where they used a 3 slump, (where I got the idea).
I don't have power at the site for a mixer or water, ( I do have a generator and a 60 gallon water bladder though). The pump truck will cost me $800-$1000. The piers will only be at most 75 bags of concrete. I think I will take you advice and err on the safe side.
Unless a number of folks that have tried this monolithic pier/footer pour and it worked? I have my doubts as not much info pops up on Google.
Thanks again JRR!

Thoughts on my footing size for the two story? I can bump it up to 2'x2'x2'

Best,

Mike