1 and 1/2 Story 20x30 Alberta Cottage

Started by Alberta Curt, February 24, 2008, 11:32:12 PM

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MountainDon

In that case all you need to do is meet the codes for normal AC wiring. Don't even mention the possibility of installing solar power to the inspector if you don't need to. At least that's my approach. Never volunteer information that is not pertinent to the situation. Some times it's difficult not to be too chatty, but it's best not to.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Alberta Curt

Started the stairs this weekend.  Couldn't wait.......paid a guy to bring his grader in and do the road.





Going to finish the electrical next weekend and start the veranda.  Wish me luck!!

Curt


Alberta Curt

I've been trying to figure out how, and what material to use, to construct the soffits for some time now.  Can't believe I didn't aske the questions here.  Anyone have any success stories or helpful hints?

Curt d*

MountainDon

How wide is the soffit?

I used 24" wide Hardi-Soffit material (cement fiber) that came with ventilation holes drilled along the outer side. Compliments the Hardi-Plank siding material we used.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Redoverfarm

Curt on the soffit I guess its another time for "depends".  That is whether the exterior will be low maintenance or not.  To make it correspond with the siding of your choice?  Vented or non?  I decided when I put the logs up on mine that it would definitely not be low maintenance and went with a T-111 product more or less only that mine is much like a bead board only with 4" beads. Came in 4X8 sheets T&G.  Cut it to 1'X4' sheets and attached.  I did put screened 3X10 soffit vents(metal).  It was all stained to match the siding & facia.  Speaking of which I had read somewhere that you should have 1 sf of vent per 100 sf of rafter bays.  There is a multitude of vent styles from a continious strip to 2" round metal pop ins.  If your flavor is vinyle then you can get the perforated in a variety of colors.  Like I said it all depends.


Alberta Curt

Thanks guys.

My exterior will be cedar siding which I will be letting weather, so I think that makes it low maintenance.  I think I have a similar idea Redoverfarm, but I was thinking of using plain ol' OSB board cut into the appropriate width.  Then installing venting.  Think this will work?

John Raabe

I wouldn't use OSB as roof sheathing if it were to be exposed on the bottom (ie: open rafters with vent blocking). Also most codes will disallow this use.

We used 1x T&G cedar planed down to match the height of the roof sheathing. Weathers the same as the siding. You have to be careful about the fastener length on the eaves.

You can also use any type of exterior panel siding material use as T1-11.
None of us are as smart as all of us.

Redoverfarm

I concur with John on the OSB.  This product was not made for exterior use.  They do make a cedar exterior 1/3-3/8 ply but when I checked on it the price scared me off at $42 a sheet.  You could use something similar to what I used and oil stain it to what ever shade you desired.  I used a Semi-transp stain on mine.  I went back through my photographs and found a picture and after zooming and croping I think you can get an idea of what I was talking about.  This of course is a gable end shot.  I couldn't find a eve shot to show the vents.


Redoverfarm

Alberta Curt I had a chance to take a picture of the soffet witht he vents in place.  Although they didn't come out as well as i had envisioned in the photograph it will give you some idea what I was referring to.



Alberta Curt

Looks Great.

I like the thought of the 1x T&G cedar.  I assume a fella just cuts them to size and connects them the entire length?  I was thinking I would just run parallel 2x and tack the soffit into it on each side.

Let me know if I've de-railed!!




Alberta Curt

Going to attempt to install my stove pipe this weekend through the metal roof.  I know its might not be rocket science, but I also know the hole isn't going to be perfectly round.  Any tips fellas?

Curt

Redoverfarm

Just don't cut it any larger than the boot flange.  And get the boot for metal roofing.  It has a flexible aluminum trim that contours to the peaks and valleys.  If you have a little latitude on the location I try to get mine to fall in the valley or flat of the panel.  Pilot hole from the bottom & cut from the top.  I have heard of others that are off on their measurements and end up cutting through a rafter.

As for your soffit.  I would imagine that would work with the cedar providing that they do not open up and let bugs in through the crack.  Have you decided on a vent yet?

MountainDon

I marked the center of the pipe on the floor with the stove moved off to the side. Then I used a 2 lb. plumb bob (and a helper) to find the center of the pipe line on the underside of the sheathing. Then I drilled a hole through. Then on top of the roof, using the flashing as a guide the cut out was marked, then cut. Fit perfect.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Alberta Curt

Thanks guys.  I have the boot you mention with the flexible aluminum trim.  Did you screw the alumimum trim to the roof with the screws that come with the metal roof?  Or just silicon it?

For the soffit I'm going with cedar board and batten.


Redoverfarm

Use both. Silicon under the seal and roofing(gasketed) screws on top.  I always for a little better protection lay a bead of caulk on the top(peak side) of the trim after I have attached by the other two means.

MountainDon

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Alberta Curt

#166
Here is where I ended up this weekend with the veranda.  Instead of taking the facia off, I ran the veranda joists into the facia using hangers.  Chose this approach because I had already previously installed the metal trim.  Have the ledger board installed on the other side and now just the corner work remains.  Sat and stared at it for a few hours before I decided to come home and ask for help.

I think the right way to do this is to run a double 2x corner joist from the corner of the cabin, but the facia gets in the way??  Could run the corner joist from the corner of the facia??  Sure wish I did the veranda before the metal.  HELP!!!

Maybe I'll just throw a tarp over.  Can't look that bad.


Alberta Curt


MountainDon

I confused myself looking at the photo. Some how my eyes, such as they are, remained focused on that ledger on the end wall.  d*

So is that roof on the side wall and the roof on the end wall meant to be joined at the corner to cover a porch that wraaps around the corner?     I wish PEG would drop by.    ???
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

ScottA

I doubt that facia board will carry much of a load. You have the porch rafters attached to the facia which is not designed to be load bearing. My advice would be to rework it so they attach to a ledger board like the side wall. It should be properly supported. Bolted to the wall or notched in would be better. Same goes for the ledger on the side wall. What kind of snow loads you have there? Nails won't hold much in shear. If you get very much snow on there you may have a problem. As for the corner you are just framing a hip roof corner. The board that runs on a 45 from the corner needs to be a size larger than the rafters.


Alberta Curt

Mountain,

That's exactly what I'm trying to achieve.  Any thoughts?  Be nice.

Curt

MountainDon

Well, I've left this bouncing around the crannies of my mind and other than calling and paying "Bob the Builder" to do this here's something to chew on.

Looking at that picture it seems the desire is to run the side rood off at the level of the eves there. Then it'll wrap around the end in a hip style as Scott pointed out.

IF, you removed those joists and the fascia board(s) you should be able to run those porch roof rafters back to a ledger that would be lag screwed to the wall studs. MTL, you'd need new longer rafters if you wanted or needed to keep the porch at it's present width. The new rafters would be brought out positioned to lay against the rafter tails of the main roof.

From the photos I can't tell if the end wall ledger would be at the correct height to allow the two porch roof sections to meet in a good hip. In any event that ledger should likely be lag screwed into the wall studs as well, as Scott commented.

If you have a drip edge along that side wall fascia you might need to remove some roofing screws in order to pull it out. It's not needed there. What you will need to transition from the main roof to the porch is a "transition flashing"... I don't know the correct terminology but a good roofing supplier will know what's needed if you show them what you need to roof.

??? ??? ??? ??? ???
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Alberta Curt

Took it all down this weekend and started over.  Pulled off the facia and ran the new veranda rafters into a ledger board and nailed them to the rafter tails.  Still need to finish the one side.  I still need some help on how to join the hip of the veranda into the corner with the existing gable end on the corner in the way.  Can't find anywhere on the net that shows the framing of the hip into the corner.  Anyone have any ideas?


Alberta Curt


Alberta Curt

Got the stove pipe through the roof this weekend.  Added in the deck railing, was surprised how good it looks.  Lost my fifth gas container this year to the bears.  Think I'd learn by now.