First set of hoops have been successfully jumped. Plans are here:
http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=plans
We dig the foundation Tuesday 8/29/06. Photo updates ASAP.
Wish me luck ;-)
chuck.
Looks cool. :)
Looks like a nice project Pala
(Also, the more I look at it, the more it looks like a Ross Chapin design??)
Quote
(Also, the more I look at it, the more it looks like a Ross Chapin design??)
Yep, if thats kosher.
Sweet cottage! Good Luck!
QuoteLooks like a nice project Pala
(Also, the more I look at it, the more it looks like a Ross Chapin design??)
I thought the same thing, John. Of course, I studied those designs in depth when trying to come up with something small but aesthetic for our home. That was before I found this forum!
It does look great and good luck. You know this group-the more pics the better!
Your caulk tag line ;D I have this island in my kitchen which I am "remodeling" (I'm sprucing up the kitchen in hopes of increasing the saleability). I bought lattice strips to frame the sides and back-as I was gluing and tacking in certain places there were going to be gaps. "What should I do?" Rick's (the Gimp) answer-"I've got some caulk that'll take care of that" and he was right! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
Judy
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Foundation/aad.jpg)
Breaking ground feels good. Click my signature for more picutures under "FOUNDATION".
Enjoy.
Nice fun looking toy. :)
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Foundation/aau.jpg)
Forms are 1/2 done. :o
We decided not to do a mono-pour since we need to back fill the interior because of the site slope. Pouring the perimeter first, backfill with pea gravel, then pour the 4" slab and grade beams in a second pour. Engineering calls for 16"w x 18" deep thickened edges and 8" separation grade to wood. 90 deg. bent rebar 12" o.c ties the slab and perimeter wall together. Hopefully not a significant enough change to make the inspector balk.
Dividing the job will make it easier to concentrate on things like the radiant tubes and placing threaded rod for the PHD hold downs.
Click my link below for some more photos from today.
chuck.
Nice form lumber - it's a shame to pour cement against it. :-/
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Foundation/abc.jpg)
Inside forms are up. Now for the rebar, and plumbing.
chuck
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Foundation/abf.jpg)
Rebar - lots of it. ;) Inspection #1 today. Cross your fingers.
More photos at the link below.
Looks Great- and like work. I have one coming up, but a shade larger. :-/
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Foundation/abm.jpg)
Ooops!
Messy, but the top is level and square.
More photos at the link below under FOUNDATION.
Chuck what in the Sam hill are you building that needs a , [highlight]looks like[/highlight] , 24" foundation wall :o
It appears you setitng up for a slab on grade pour that ties those rebar into the floor / walls . Also I don't see any straps sticking up and very few foundation bolts :-/
That lil house needs that foundation? In floor heat? Earthquake engineering ? :-/
How many yards was that pour? :o You must have pumped it?I hope ;)
Heheh. 26" Port Townsend. >:( >:(
This started as a monopour with thickend edge measuring: 16" wide, 18" below grade, 8" separation wood to ground. That's what the engineer wanted, who am I to question. :-)
So we decided to pour the perimeter first and then backfill with gravel because we have some elevation change that made the inside void so big.
I know I could have done a footing and an 8" wall instead (like Johns floating slab drawing) but going back to the engineer and the city would just be too much hassle. So we kept all the numbers the same and broke it into two pours.
I have found that the project moves along at my speed and control until I involve the city. Then all bets are off and break out the loaded dice, who knows what might happen. I'm pretty sure they are NOT supposed to make arbitrary and capricious decisions. Doesn't mean mean the won't.
Prime Objective: Final Permit. Keep your eye on the prize.
Bolts visible are for Simpson PHD2 and 5's, I think those replace straps, and we will drill for anchor bolts and use expansion bolts.
It was about 15.75 yards, $1400. Whadddayagunnado?
Yep, hydronic radiant in the slab. We built a chute out of 2x10 to reach the places the trucks chute didn't reach.
You might look at using these ,
http://www.simpsonanchors.com/catalog/mechanical/titen-hd/index.html
(http://www.simpsonanchors.com/images/product/titen-hd.jpg%20)
Beat Red heads , bore hole , impact drive bolt . Works over here in Island county.
Ya did pump that mud didn't ya :o Look at the bright side , you avoided any short load charges ;D
I missed the part where you chuted it , we pored 8 1/2 yrds. today, slab on grade ,small room . Nice day to pour not to warm not to cold , 1% cal. she kicked in a couple of hours ;)
BTW our concrete com., Norwest, has a big drain pipe , cut in 1/2 thats about 12' long ,they bring it on the truck if you ask . You might check with your supplier they may have one as well , makes it a lil easier/ smoother / lighter than a 2 x10 chute .
Trowel it by hand , PEG or turn a trowel machine loose on it? About 500 square feet?
Thanx for the link PEG, I'll see if the inspector's cool with them.
yep nice day
shows them using those for Hold Down as well. Next time ;)
QuoteTrowel it by hand , PEG or turn a trowel machine loose on it? About 500 square feet?
#1: By hand , we never use a power trowel ::)
#2: 168 sqrfeet , thickened at the edges about 8" thick in the field , not worth bring in fill for that small a hole.
Oh-- a union crew --- they don't like power trowels. :) They take away jobs. Small one like that is not too bad by hand anyway.
Thick floor -- heavy people? :-/ I can't understand an 8" thick floor for a house. :)
Dug around primeter thickened to about 24" , soil condition bad , left inside grade alone , I think they scrapped off the top soil , or it might have been a old slab under the plastic , I wasn't in on the dig and form setup , I was on another job , well two other jobs really, so I was there about 30 minutes befo the concrete, oiled the forms , got set up for the pour , IE tools out , boots on , hose ready etc . So what is really under the slab now I'm not sure .
Ya we could have dug out all the old stuff hauled it 20 miles , back hauled fill or ran a mixer truck in with stone in it but to save $$$ ya leave the sort of junk in / under the mono slab.
Even to bring in another truck with pea stone fill would cost more , short load fee's , labor to spread it etc , concrete even thought it is expence in a small job like this speeds up the job , and cost less when used as fill'
Pala job is a totally different deal , he would save $$ by bring that interior area up with some fill , pea stone , small lil rocks is compacted tp IIRC 95 % just as it comes out of the truck , no compaction required nor possible the compactor would just bury itself , the lil stones would just flow around it .
Gotta get to work more later if required.
Yep, pea gravel is the "order of the day". I'm told that there's a shooter attatchement for the truck that will carry it across the perimeter "wall".
I've seen the shooters in action. Great worksavers.
QuoteYep, pea gravel is the "order of the day". I'm told that there's a shooter attatchement for the truck that will carry it across the perimeter "wall".
Make sure you have
ear plugs for everyone , [highlight]and wear them [/highlight] ;D It a LOUD job runnin pee stone , how is it spelled , pea or pee :-/they are pea sized and pee is a stream of , ah , well you know ;D
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Foundation/aby.jpg)
Step 2, Fix mistakes. :o A few more photos in the Foundation Gallery at the link below.
"Pea Shooter" not available until friday.
Nice pics showing your step-by-step process - will be very helpful to others :)
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Foundation/acg.jpg)
They always told me I'd have to stop playing with toys when I grew up. Either they lied or I just haven't grown up yet. This was one of the coolest things I've seen in a while. Timesaver? .... Ummmm yeeeah!
More fotos at the link below in the FOUNDATION gallery.
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Foundation/aco.jpg)
Wires and tubes. Tubes and wires. She blinded me with RauPEX. Kick booty Indian Summer here. ;)
Wish me luck on the inspection tomorrow.
chuck.
More photos at the link below under FOUNDATION. Enjoy.
Pala says-
She blinded me with RauPEX...
And hit me with technology
"Good heavens Miss Sakamoto - you're beautiful!"
I - I don't believe it!
There she goes again!
She's tidied up, and I can't find anything!
All my tubes and wires
And careful notes
And antiquated notions
But! - it's poetry in motion
Thomas Dolby
~Judy
Quote(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/Foundation/acg.jpg)
They always told me I'd have to stop playing with toys when I grew up. Either they lied or I just haven't grown up yet. This was one of the coolest things I've seen in a while. Timesaver? .... Ummmm yeeeah!
More fotos at the link below in the FOUNDATION gallery.
So that the pea shooter eh :)We just use a mixer truck over here, never seen one of those fancy rigs :o. Mixer truck is very noisey, I see ,(YOU?) or some one has ears but they don't work so well proped up on the head like that ;DMaybe that shooter / converyer belt isn't as noisey :-/
What was you issue with the foundation ? To wide ? Looked like you where trimming it down , the photo just a red X now tryin to forget ;D That , ah , day ;D
Yeah, "The Shooter" wasn't really all that noisey, unless you were standing at the truck.
Our beautiful forms bowed out and/or failed slightly in two places. We are cleaning that up so that the 2" foam will have a plumb surface. Next time we will run "strongbacks" on long walls like those.
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Foundation/abm.jpg)
oops.
(I fixed those image links).
Ah I see :o Concrete is very heavy most folks think they have enought bracing , as a rule more is better when concrete is involved ;D
How'd ya do in the PT film fest?
QuoteAh I see :o Concrete is very heavy most folks think they have enought bracing , as a rule more is better when concrete is involved ;D
How'd ya do in the PT film fest?
We were awarded 5th out of 9. I feel we should have placed higher, but we do it for the fun really. Here's a link to the film at youtube NSFW(Not Safe For Work). Sorry about the cussing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WKe1yeYjTp4
Nice work Pala - a man of many talents. ;)
QuoteNice work Pala - a man of many talents. ;)
Thanx John.
Pouring the last of the concrete today. Hard to believe we're gonna start framing next week.
chuck.
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Foundation/act.jpg)
Check foundation off the list !!
We filled in the rest with no issues. Good estimate on the yards: 10.5. Had about a 1/4 yd. left.
Flat is good. Need to figure out my next materials order and let it harden over the weekend. 16d sinkers ring loud and true early Monday morning.
Whew! :o
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Framing/aam.jpg)
More photos here:
http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=Framing
You are certainly getting a lot done! Looks really nice!
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Framing/aaq.jpg)
I love how fast it goes durring framing.
I need to stay ahead better on my materials orders.
more below under FRAMING
enjoy,
chuck.
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Framing/abh.jpg)
Levels... ;)
Lots of head scratching Friday; trying to figure out the two upstairs levels and how that works with the stair risers and tread dimensions. I think we got it figured out. We read the plans wrong and we need to run a third top plate and 2 pieces of 1/2" plywood to raise the higher floor up 2 1/2". Kinda fun, kinda frustrating, little bit scarry.
More photos at the link below under FRAMING.
enjoy,
chuck
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Framing/abs.jpg)
This 6x8 will be exposed in the opening between the study and downstairs bedroom. Supported on either side by 6x6 posts chamfered and fluted into columns. Finished with Benmatte perhaps.
More framing photos at the link below in the FRAMING gallery.
chuck.
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Framing/acs.jpg)
Stairs and what not.
Note to self: Order engineered wood earlier next time. :-/
More framing goodness at the link below.
chuck.
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/Framing/acn.thumb.jpg)
Hey, who is that monkey climbing the columns? You are really moving along, Pala, great job!
Quote(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Framing/acn.thumb.jpg)
Hey, who is that monkey climbing the columns? You are really moving along, Pala, great job!
;D ;D
That's the ScottMonkey. He's invaluable when it comes time to put on the roofing.
chuck.
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Framing/adc.jpg)
Second floor joists going in. Custom wood work in the photo above. 8-)
More at the link below in the FRAMING gallery.
chuck..
Chuck:
Very nice work on the beam and post! A great example of the wood butchers art. :D
(This is the kind of thing people will still be appreciating long after you've left the planet. There is a built-in heritage and timelessness to building... and you've hit that note.)
That's so nice looking!
I want something like that!
It's probably less than $125 in wood. It's just dimensional Doug Fir. It was fun picking thru the piles. The 6x8 came out of a big old stack of 6x8x20'. Knucklebusters for sure. The keys are walnut scraps, from a pallet i believe.
Then give a creative fellow (Scott, not me) a couple new router bits and a few rainy days and you have something people die for. I love it. My parents are beside themselves at this point.
John, I feel the same way about "permanence". In a hundred years someone will be enjoying this place. Maybe they will stumble across some of our mistakes and wonder "What the heck were these guys thinkin'??" Today I observed distinctly the concept: it is not the record of the mistake that this left docmented by the stone and wood, rather the record of the solution that fixed said mistake. Shuck and jive.
Doors and windows came in... whew, I hope I'm not spending anyone's money to fast here. Sure is easier to write checks when it ain't your bank account.
The weather is telling me I should have gotten that roof on about a week ago. Good thing I gots motivated help.
enjoy,
chuck.
Chuck you should try to keep the Scott monkey very happy :) Nice job Scott 8-) I really like that lambs tongue effect with the chamfer bit . I use it a lot , if I might suggest a thought or two well maybe three :-[
On the flutes a bit more tradational look would be to stop the outer two flutes say 1 1/2" to 2" short of the center flute , like these on this mantal.
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/may82.jpg%20)
Un painted photo might show it a bit better,
(https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/apr2932.jpg)
If you haven't done so, some Benite on that raw wood will help a lot with keeping hand prints from getting as deep into the wood and a bit with rain / water. Won't hurt in the long run weather its paint grade or stain grade but it might save some cleanup time . Might help a bit with checking as well.
The weathers been pretty good so far , maybe we're going to have a mild winter :-/ I like those as I get older ;)
Keep up the good work, PEG
Chuck
Looking at your foundation pictures reminded me of doing mine. I, too, was originally planning on a monopour until I found it difficult to get the gravel fill into a sloped shape around the perimeter. That and this being the first time I ever did this led to the decision to do the foundation in two stages. It made for a lot less to deal with all at once (filling the forms, finishing the surface, etc). It also made estimating the cement much easier than trying to estimate for the thickened edge of a monopour.
I probably ended up with forms that were severely overbuilt, waking up every morning and thinking they needed more strength than that which I added the previous day. This went on for several days, adding a brace here and there.
I wish I had the time to think about and do nicer details like the ones you have done instead of building my plain generic box. They look good. Maybe next project.
Tom
Thanx for the feedback PEG, I see that the staggered flutes do look better as you suggest. Next time I'll keep that in mind. Although, I don't like to confound the "creative genius" if I can help it. ;)
Give Scooter some room to create and he always comes up with somthing unique and stylish.
I'll get some benite on that wood this week end. It has linseed oil on it now. Should I go right over that with the benite?
Super-thank you's for the tips.
TC-VT, I wish we had overbuilt ours a bit more. No major burden. A day or so with the construction hammer and we cleaned up the slumped concrete real well.
...
Should be sheeting off the 2nd floor this afternoonage. More photos to come.
No problem Chuck . Just another way to approach it.
I'd wipe the stuff down with paint thinner / mineral spirits to thin out the linseed oil , it tend to be , well oily and that oil attracts dirt etc . So I'd wipe um down good then put on a liberal / heavy coat of Benite , just wet it downa couple of three times , you be able to tell when it's enought.
Nice job again to Scott 8-) PEG
That is really nice woodworking, Pala - both Peg's style & Scott's look really pretty.
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Framing/ady.jpg)
:) :) :)
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Framing/aee.jpg)
All Gables are up. :o
I've hired a crane to lift up the ridge beam. All the monkeys thought that was a great idea. :P
chuck.
p.s. more photos at the link below in the FRAMING album.
Really taking shape now, Chuck. :)
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Framing/aet.jpg)
$90 well spent.
chuck
You must have known that guy - most of the time there is a few hour minimum at 90 to 120 per hour around here. Good deal. :)
Lazy backwater towns, you know everybody. ;)
But he must have a 1 hr min, cause he wasn't there more than 25 mins or so.
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Framing/afx.jpg)
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Framing/afr.jpg)
Rafter tails. :o
House-shaped stack of wood and nails.
chuck.
Nice pile of wood and nails.
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Framing/afy.jpg)
When you order rafters, be sure to specify "extra cute"
enjoy.
chuck.
Those are really nice - what a "cute" place that will be with all the special custom woodwork 8-) - I am enjoying!
Sassy
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Framing/agl.jpg)
Skylights and more roofy goodness at:
http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=g_st_Framing&page=1
We should be doing some backfilling/trenching and utility hookups on Monday or Tuesday.
enjoy,
chuck.
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Framing/agn.jpg)
More rafter goodness.
chuck.
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_plumbingelectricmechanical/aae.jpg)
Mixing, pump, manifold for radiant floor system.
Pala, looks like you are using copper pipes throughout? They're a lot more work but probably more durable for the long run - after all, you are building the home to last, not something that will be torn down in 20-30 years...
The "pex" plumbing lines are much easier to do & hopefully have a long life... you can put them anywhere without a lot of hassle - we used it in our place & Daddymem & Mommymen used it in their new home.
Lookin' good! Anymore pictures?
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Framing/ahe.jpg)
Brrr...
Sassy: I'm just using copper for this mixing system. The on-demand water heater requires 4' of copper, so I figured I'd do this much in copper. It goes to PEX once it leaves this board. PEX supply line to the meter as well. I did my previous house in PEX, super easy.
Cold here, roof can't come soon enough.
chuck.
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Framing/ahv.jpg)
Consider all birds blocked!
Lots more photos at the link below.
Quote
Consider all birds blocked!
I believe you might need a roof first!
QuoteQuote
Consider all birds blocked!
I believe you might need a roof first!
Aren't you coming over to do that this week??
;)
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Framing/ajf.jpg)
And the dog says....
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Framing/akh.jpg)
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_Framing/ajz.jpg)
Dry-ed in, more or less. Doors, except the upstairs french, are in now too.
Gotta call the gutter guy.
chuck
Looks great, Chuck.
You've done this much and you're wimping out on the gutters? Are they going to be copper or something? Looks great so far, thanks for all the photos.
QuoteYou've done this much and you're wimping out on the gutters? Are they going to be copper or something? Looks great so far, thanks for all the photos.
Na, it's just that continious gutters are the way to go. I don't have one of those fancy extrusion machines handy, so I'll pay a guy who does. I won't be doing the insulation or drywall myself, either. My project isn't in the woods, where DIY is applied more to the project. I have adequate access to tradesmen who produce above average work at an econmical price.
YMMV. Plus who wants to hang gutters, comm'on. ;)
chuckie.
In one of your pictures I believe I saw the panel for radiant floor heat. Am I right? Is this a DIY system? Boiler? Water heater? Electric? Gas? I'm putting in a similar heat system and am looking for advice or suggestions. Your "get a way" is really looking nice. And the snow ads interest to the project! :) :)
Check this out, chatycady.
http://www.radiantdesigninstitute.com/page62.html
Simple system with tank heater(gas) electric won't keep up - more foolproof than trying it with an on demand heater.
Check out the rest of the site too. http://www.radiantdesigninstitute.com/page2.html
Thanks I will!
Thanx for the links Glenn.
Chaty, I used this page as my guide :
http://www.radiantcompany.com/system/open.shtml
I am using a SETS Systems ondemand electric H2O heater:
http://setssystems.com/
I am making my best educated-guess at building this system. Cross your fingers. I just mounted that panel in the utility room I will snap some photos today. I hooked up the main waterline to the house and we're on the list with the power co. for hook up.
Click my link below for a million more photos.
chuck
Thanks Pala!
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_plumbingelectricmechanical/aap.jpg)
This is the on-demand water heater, 80A sub panel and main load center. Shocking!!
Some new photos in the plumbing album:
http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=g_st_plumbingelectricmechanical
We have found that the on demand electric heaters require more power than the whole rest of the house during the time they are on.
Note that on Solar my cabin uses 1 to 4 amps at 120 v for normal operation and 10 to 12 amps at 220 when pumping water.
Somewhere around 10 times the amount.
Rather of a lot.
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_trim_details/aba.jpg)
Been busy and weather stricken. lots more photos:
http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=g_st_trim_details
Looking good, Chuck.
Is it legal to cover your fancy rafter tails with gutters? :-?
QuoteLooking good, Chuck.
Is it legal to cover your fancy rafter tails with gutters? :-?
It's a game of give and take.
:)
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_plumbingelectricmechanical/abc.jpg)
Hot Water. It's like a real house.
Lots of photos at the link below.
Your place is looking great! That is a deck outside the upper front porch, isn't it? At 1st I thought it was going to be, then I saw the way you'd done the roofing & thought, no... then with the latest pics it looks like a nice deck area from the bedroom? I like all the neat details 8-)
QuoteYour place is looking great! That is a deck outside the upper front porch, isn't it? At 1st I thought it was going to be, then I saw the way you'd done the roofing & thought, no... then with the latest pics it looks like a nice deck area from the bedroom? I like all the neat details 8-)
Yep its a nice deck. It's about 17'x6'3". With real nice territorial view. We're lining it with EPDM pond liner, with two drains in the outboard corners and each has an overflow mounted on the vertical wall nearby. Those drains will lead to built-up columns where the porch meets the house. And thence to the downspout drains below the porch deck. First floor deck is 2x6 t&g car decking. The ceiling will be 1x6 t&g pine, painted. Above the pond liner, we will build three removeable deck panels. I think we will be using Tigerwood. It's about a third the price of Epe. They also have some Purpleheart decking coming in. It's even less than the Tigerwood. All about the same hardness.
Full speed ahead!! :o
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_trim_details/acm.jpg)
Progress.
Beautiful!
Beautiful work Pala,
Is that cedar you are using to trim out the windows - building corners etc? Or something else?
Thanks.
QuoteBeautiful work Pala,
Is that cedar you are using to trim out the windows - building corners etc? Or something else?
Thanks.
It's stock pre-primed facia in 1"x? and 5/4"x?
I believe it's spruce. When you work it, it smells like wet dog. Odd.
thanx for the compliments. everyone's really happy with the results.
chuck.
Ya it's Pre - Primed Spruce , or PPS as I call it , another PEG acronym ::)
Chuck what's up with the OSB soffits?? Maybe next time get some Satin ply or LP plane to do the exposed Soffits/ Rake / Barge area's ;) Sure it will be painted but ......
Just a suggestion , looks nice all in all. 8-) I like the lil details at the headers , did ya put a lil pitch cut / angle on them?? So they drain better.
Quote
I believe it's spruce. When you work it, it smells like wet dog. Odd.
Thanks. I don't think I've ever seen the product before, but I love the look!! Are your windows (the single hungs) something like a R/O 30 1/2 by 48 1/4? That's about the size I'll be using for several windows and I've really appreciated watching your photo gallery, it's been very helpful.
Is the PPS relatively stable, primarily against cupping?
PEG, please chime in if you can advice pro or con.
If your painting , the PPS is OK , it can cup but generally does that if it drys to quickly , like if you bring it inside a heated space. It does shrink so you can cut it tight , I sometime biscuit the peak joins using caulk for glue , Chuck has the roof metal lapping over that will cover most of joint , a keystone / or some such can also cover a long ridge cut to cover the shrinking issue.
It would also be nice to RE -pre prime any cuts , I used to do that when I ran my own business.
All in all it's a good paint grade product. Straight , few knots, generally doesn't split. I don't think Home Cheapo carries it we get it at the local lumber yard.
G/L PEG
OSB? :-? No OSB to be found, photo must be playing tricks on you.
The eves are sheathed in 5/8" S-Ply. $33 a sheet.
What are you refering to about the header detail?? Sometimes the monkeys get into all kindsa mistchif.
The single hungs are 2'6" x 6' 2". The two gang-ed together is very impressive from the inside and then the three sets together make a very open airy front room.
I'm glad y'all like.
chuck.
Quote
#1: OSB? :-? No OSB to be found, photo must be playing tricks on you.
#2: The eves are sheathed in 5/8" S-Ply. $33 a sheet.
#3: What are you refering to about the header detail?? Sometimes the monkeys get into all kindsa mistchif.
chuck.
#1: Well it looks like OSB in the photo :-[
#2: 5/8 " very good , I like 5/8" especally when comp roofing is used , hold the nails justa bit better. So with metal and screws you'll be golden , even with our wind storms 8-) 8-)
#3: Are those parts / pieces that project sloped , so like I said water drains off / doesn't sit and work it way back in??
Sort of like a drip loop from wiring , cable , phone type, they should always have a loop / low point then head back up the wall a few to 6" before they go thru the wall, causes ant water that runs down the wire to dropoff instead of flowing right into the wall traveling on the wire , basic stuff, some times so basic folks don't know about it :(
Thanks Chuck and PEG, very helpful information.
My progress has been a bit slow, I've owned this land for 10 years and this year so far we've had more snow than all the other years combined with long periods of bitter cold snaps (well my old arthritic hands indicate bitter cold anyway even if it's not really too bitter).
Finally framing and warming up a little.
Thanks again.
PEG,
Yep, sloped with a kerf cut on the underside to force the drip to drop off at the edge and not wick back on the underside.
We get it right sometimes.
chuck
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_trim_details/aez.jpg)
Cute!
I leave for Europe in 18 days. Think we'll finish by then? ;D
So, we'll take a nice little break. Come back refreshed, and wrap it up.
I'd like to get the drywall subs in and out by then, but no rush. Taking it all one day at a time.
Lots more photos at the link below.
chuck.
Very beautiful! Where are you going in Europe?
QuoteVery beautiful! Where are you going in Europe?
Amsterdam for 5 days -> Koln (Cologne) -> Rothenburg -> Stuttgart -> Innsbruck -> Padova/Venice for 4 days -> Back to Amsterdam for 7 days.
We are meeting with friends from home. One is a teacher in Padova, Italy. It will be fun to hang out with my friends in a foreign country.
There's photos from my last trip in the same gallery as the house photos. Surf up to Our Digital Photos.
chuck.
Koln!!! gotta go up "The Castle"! It's the big church there and it think that's they call it...? We went up it in 2001. I made it as a fat guy so anyone can do it. Something like 500 steps up or some crazy number. Awsome views and you can go in and see the big bells and all the stain glass . Pretty cool place! Just my 2 cents!
You're really doing a first cabin job on this place Pala.
Have a great European vacation!
PS - I remember an old book I could lend you, [highlight]"Europe on $5 a day"[/highlight]. Do you think some of that might be out of date?
Thanx for the kind words John.
Old book or not, frugal is google. (that made no sense.)
16 days 20 hours 34 mins, and counting.
We had planned to go to Europe next month but housebuilding got in the way. We are still planning a trip but probably only to Germany. The one request of the boys is to see the "gothic cathdral in Cologne". If you have tips on where to stay or what else to see in the area and have time, please share.
Judy
You project is beautiful, so detailed.
I wanted to chime in a say that I love the details too. Just think -- 50 years from now somewone will look under the eves and see your rafter details and say "wow, cool".
I'll never forget taking the Anheuser Bush bottling plant tour in St. Louis years ago. I looked up as I was walking by a very small machine shop building and I saw a sculptured freize at the building's peak. This on a building that would probably be a slapped together steel pole barn if it was built today.
The paper in Nashville used to have contests to see who could spot the little details in the higher reaches of buildings downtown. I think someone always did, rarely me, though. But I wasn't downtown that much.
I think they're worth the time to do.
And I know I'm jealous of how fast that building is going up! And how much help there is!
That's the thing, the craftsmanship that went into "everyday" buildings! Now it's just slapdash styrofoam and stucco. I think that's why people can't believe the time it's taken us to get to this stage on our house.
Judy
Have a great vacation! Keep those pictures coming! I looked at some of your pics from the last European vacation - no labels so didn't really know what I was looking at...
Quoteno labels so didn't really know what I was looking at...
It's all so old and neat, hardly matters really.
My short list of hotels in Koln is:
Brandenburger Hof
Muller Hotel
Hotel Im Kupferkessel
We are budget oriented, so your tastes or needs may vary.
You can't go wrong using www.tripadvisor.com to plan your accomodations.
In Klon the local beer is called Kolsch and it comes in 250 ml glasses so that it stays crisp and cold. They just keep bringing it untill you say stop. Now that's good drinkin'. I will eat just about anything, but I'm not touching the blood sausage.
I too, am looking forward to the Cathedral.
Thanx everyone for making such nice comments.
I should be able to pressure up the water supply again tomorrow. I had the radiant floor running for a day, but was afraid to leave it unattended over night. So now I've been finishing up the rough-in on potable lines. Rahau tool is the shizzle but we have one spot with limited access and a "T" on each the hot and cold. It was a real bitch to get the tool on the fitting. Everywhere else, easy as cake. Piece of pie. Hard to believe it's so easy.
I busted the Millwaukee right-angle twice drilling rough in. One part was only $7, but I blew out the gearbox and bought a whole new kit for about $90. Me and the monkeys think the thing shouldn't be so whimpy.
We had a leak in the balcony lining. We used a two part drain fitting that sandwiches the liner material between the two pieces. We applied Sikaflex to the surfaces and that acted as a lubricant. When the drain was screwed down, it pushed the liner out. The drain monkeys gave it another go today. Cross your fingers.
Gonna need some inspections here soon. Cross your fingers for that one too.
Thanx again for the kind words. Everyone here is so pleased.
chuck.
Have good inspections--and a good trip as well.
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_trim_details/afy.jpg)
Tiger Wood decking.... ... ::) ok get all the jokes and giggles out. Yes it's PGA approved.
But it sure is purdy. Photos of the back deck in the same stuff:
Clicky (http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=g_st_trim_details)
But does it drift right when over drive it ;D
Nice Chuck , have a great Euro vacation :)
Windy over your way tonight??
Blustery!
I'm roaming Amsterdam in GoogleEarth.
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_insulation_drywall/aan.jpg)
Ok, enough fooling around. Get Back To Work Chuck!
Hopefully drywall soon.
Parents arrive June 18 to inspect their Getaway.
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_insulation_drywall/abx.jpg)
Drywall.
more (http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=g_st_insulation_drywall)
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(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_insulation_drywall/abx.jpg)
Drywall.
Ayup. Almost as exciting as watchin mud dry ::) ;D
Looks like some 54" brd was used , NOW that exciting :)
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_insulation_drywall/ach.jpg)
Here's that post and beam after the drywallers have had at it.
So, I am confused. Are you building a get-away for your parents, telling your parents to get away, or are you the parents getting away? Either way, I love this house, and the job that is being done is first rate. One more nail in the cheap-throw-away-plastic-house's coffin (hey, I can dream)! What is the language captioning photos on your web page?
QuoteSo, I am confused. Are you building a get-away for your parents, telling your parents to get away, or are you the parents getting away? Either way, I love this house, and the job that is being done is first rate. One more nail in the cheap-throw-away-plastic-house's coffin (hey, I can dream)! What is the language captioning photos on your web page?
Hi Jens.
It's a getaway, for my parents. Scott and Chris and I are building, my Parents are paying. ;-)
Are you referring to the Russian that's in the framing section? Scanning my website stats I noticed that some folks on a Russian building discussion board, much like this one, are following along with my posts and discussing amongst themselves. Small world.
I shoulda never told the drywallers we have plenty of time. Nice looking job though. Better than I would have done.
Oh you did it >:( Never tell ANYONE in the const. field theres no hurry / plenty of time ::) ::) ;D ;D
especially if you are paying by the hour
I was more referring to getting them to SHOW UP ;D
kinda depends on whether or not you've paid anything in advance. Also helps if they are not crack heads. The ones that I hate the most are, "dude, slow down, we're getting paid by the hour," and "can't see it from my house"
Kick those guy right off the job >:( And never pay "day help " in advance ;)
Most liget subs wouldn't want a general to pay in advance althought they would want a down payment , at least , from a one time client / owner / builder. Which is fair as far as I'm concerned, a one time owner / builder is as likely to screw over the liget contractor / sub as vice versa.
One of my many sayings , is "Perfect is close enought!" ;D
It's a single bid for the whole job. I paid half once all the rock was hung.
It's actually all working out just fine.
Parents arrive for an inspection in 3 days.
chuck.
Chuck,
What will you be using for interior jamb extensions in your windows? Your craftsmanship on your parents get away is inspiring.
Thanks.
QuoteChuck,
What will you be using for interior jamb extensions in your windows? Your craftsmanship on your parents get away is inspiring.
Thanks.
I've just ordered up a butt-load of hemlock 1"x and 5/4"x square trim. The jamb extensions for the window will be ripped out of 1x8" or possibly 1x6".
Door and window header trim will be 5/4"x6" ripped to 4~1/2". Side trim is 1"x4". Plinth blocks where door side trim meets baseboards will be 5/4"x6" (prolly ripped down a bit.)
Price difference at my lumber yard between finger-jointed pine and hemlock was not that much different. So we went with Hemlock to keep the monkeys happy. MDF is below standard for this project.
...
I see that links to a bunch of my photos are broken. I will try to fix that asap
c
Thanks Chuck,
I'm eager to see them trimmed out!
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_finish/aak.jpg)
Front Porch.
I've been installing outlets and light switches, etc. Cabinets are scheduled to come in 10 days.
Looks nice Chuck . 8-)
Couple of comments , the railings should not pass inspection as they need to be "grippable" see page 20 of the code check field guide. Maybe your planning on a added grippable rail that you can loose ;)later.
Those top caps are gonna cup and crack , I hate to say it but Trex or some other composite will hold up better than Pre primed Spruce, you could try short "hidden " kerfs , or use a router and waste away the inside of the cap some that MIGHT help . The one on the left already is cupping :(
Jeesh as hot as it is today and what predicted for tomorrow :o :o we all might split / melt :o ;D
Yep, we'll add a grippable rail as well.
Thanx for the suggestions re: the trim weathering.
Hot, yes. I'm outside on the patio now with my laptop. The inside is unbearable. ;-P
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_finish/afj.jpg)
Lots more photos:
http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=g_st_finish
I'd say 3 weeks until final inspection. Maybe sooner.
Chuck you should do a little how to on this type jig while you have that stage of the project going .
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_finish/aez.jpg)
Purdy straight forward. A straight edge and two slotted "wings", made up from pieces of the snap-loc flooring. You set the overall width and edge angles by adjusting the "wings". The "leading edge" is a straight edge so you can judge if the riser behind the tread is bowed and needs scribing. Then transfer the jig to the made-up treads and mark and scribe as necessary. They fit nice and tight and are glued in place only.
Was looking through your pix yesterday & showing my mother-in-law. She thought you'd done a really nice job - can't wait to see it when you are completely done-take lots of pix so we can see the kitchen, bathrooms, closets, etc - and the detail work :) thanks!
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_finish/afo.jpg)
Fool-ly functional kitchen.
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_finish/afs.jpg)
Haze-y closet and radiant plumbing.
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_finish/afx.jpg)
Progress.
That's cool, Chuck :)
Love your finish work on the door casing - baseboard, the window trim outs are looking great too! Can't wait to see more!
Thanks for showing!!!
QuoteLove your finish work on the door casing - baseboard, the window trim outs are looking great too! Can't wait to see more!
Thanks for showing!!!
Caulk is your friend. Thanx for the kind words.
chuck
"The Great Flood"? What happened?
Quote"The Great Flood"? What happened?
Had part of the manifold for the radiant heat snap off in the night while no one was there. I arrived in the morning to a cascade at the front porch and 4 inches of standing water inside. The snap together floor was now a "floating" floor, literally.
We had to rip out the floor and pad and junk it all. Water had seeped into the particle board middle. It could have been worse. Cabinets are fine and at least it wasn't upstairs. The dry wall survived with no damage and things sitting in the water, like a door blank, were not really damaged. The pipe must have burst only an hour or so before I arrived.
Sucks, but we're movin' on.
chuck.
AGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGUUUUUUUUUUHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH >:(
Water in the pipes , no problem , water NOT in pipes , BIG problem!!!!!!!!!!!
Is TBA a mind reader? How do you speel "syc-kick) :-/ ;D So sad , my spellin :(
Bummer!! Hope it all works out for the better!!
Not syc-kick, just a regular visitor to Chucks photos.
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_floors/abb.jpg)
"Floating" floor v2.0
Looking good, Chuck. :)
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_finish/aji.jpg)
It's starting to have that "finished" look about it, the house is.
c
Very nice details.
Will this separation wall be glazed or left open?
QuoteVery nice details.
Will this separation wall be glazed or left open?
Open, painted white like the rest of the trim.
(http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/albums/g_st_finish/ajj.jpg)
Loverly. It's a shame to paint it.
http://www.kinnik.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=g_st_finish