Stud plan.

[MountainDon]

As far as vertical or horizontal goes. IRC calls for one 4 x 8 vertical wall sheet of structural panel every 25 feet (??) of wall length. If one end of each wall is 4 foot wide and sheathed full height that fills the bill.

[schiada]

Thanks Don! I will work on that. All 4 sides? Right.
Something like this?

[MountainDon]

You might want to read some of the IRC. Chapter 6 deals with wall construction. There's info in there on things like drilling holes and cutting sny notches in studs. A section in there covers wall bracing panels as I mentioned. Much may not apply as you have a small simple shape.

There can be potential issues with notching studs to accept a ledger for a loft floor, when combined with an upper stage knewall, stud grade lumber and rafter loads pushing outwards on the top of the notched stud. The larger the building the greater the potential issues. No time for me to get into that controversial topic right now as I'm heading out of town.

IRC 2009 can be found here. VA code but much the same in its basics as anywhere else.  Those chapters can all be downloaded and saved.

[PEG688]

Thanks Don! I will work on that. All 4 sides? Right.
Something like this?

Will it work / and does it meet code , are two very different items.

 The code says " Nail all edges" so you need to add solid blocking so you can  " nail all edges" , generally today we soldier sheet goods , mainly to reduce the amount of blocking that needs to be put in to achieve the " nail all edges" part of the code.


 So your right hand side has issues , as  does the top of the sheet on the LH side.  

 You could use 9' or 10 ' plywood of OSB , that might help some what.

If it's not getting inspected either of your ways of running the sheathing will result in a strong enough building , although you're going to a lot more work than is needs by chnaging directions of sheathing.

  God this simple task is getting complicated with all the nuances of a simple shed.  

[schiada]

Thanks! I am working out the OSB placment.I had not showed the blocking. My BAD! A little more work. And yes I would like to meet code.Blocking is 2x4.?

[PEG688]

Yes . 2x4 on the flat would work.

1x4 for your let in ledger will meet code, a let in  2x4 would not be as you'd need to cut more than 25 percent   of the stud away to create the notch for it to nest into.

See the Letting in ledger thread .

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=1418.0

You might be able to read about that there.


Your window would be to close to the corner to meet code unless you use some Simpson hardware to create a alternate brace wall panel.  The easiest  way to meet the IRC is to use all full sheets on all outside corners.  Un-cut full sheets , nailed on all edges.  Pretty boring way to build , but it meets the IRC.

You'll have other hoop jumps as well with the IRC related to your foundation , or lack there of in the case of posts and pier foundations.

All of which are resolve-able with engineering. 
   

[Rob_O]

Your window would be too close to the corner to meet code unless you use some Simpson hardware to create a alternate brace wall panel.  The easiest way to meet the IRC is to use all full sheets on all outside corners. Un-cut full sheets, nailed on all edges.  Pretty boring way to build, but it meets the IRC.

Soooooo... if you were building that wall and meeting code was not a requirement how would you build that corner?

[PEG688]

Soooooo... if you were building that wall and meeting code was not a requirement how would you build that corner?

     Just like he's drawn it , but I'd more than likely run my sheathing horizontally.  No blocking.  

[schiada]

Here are some parts of my plan from John. Are you saying this is not code for the ledger ? This is getting very fuzzy.

[PEG688]

Here are some parts of my plan from John. Are you saying this is not code for the ledger ? This is getting very fuzzy.

Below is a cut and paste of what Manhattan 42 wrote on my "Letting in ledger for floor joist "  back on  14 April 2006 . He pointed out that you can't , by the code book , notch a stud beyond 25 percent of it's depth.  So for a 2x4 wall the max depth would be 7/8" , for a 2x6 wall max depth 1 3/8".

  So yes it is questionable to if John's drawing would pass the IRC as drawn.

Like I said  you could review that old thread I linked to read about it yourself. 
John had some input on that thread as well , and I guess he hasn't seen the need to change his detail.  The place I built was drawn by a Architect , who was in fact the home owner as well , and he provided engineering from his Engineer for that project. 

  We bashed the subject around  quite a bit, but in the end I think Manhattan 42 was right about a standard build  and the depth of the notch.



  manhattan42
Guest


Email
   
   
Re:  letting in ledgers for floor joist.
« Reply #25 on: April 14, 2006, 19:23:57 »

  I believe that what has occurred is that the research has indicated that notching bearing studs over 25% of their depth simply weakens their bearing capacity too much and that the 7/8" maximum notch depth for nominal 2x4 or 1 3/8" maximum notch depth for 2x6s is incidental.

I don't think it's correct to look at 1 3/8" and think it's almost 1 1/2" so why not 1 1/2". There's more to it than that.

The problem is that notched studs weaken the structure when done beyond 25% on bearing walls or 40% on non bearing walls.

[schiada]

So,what about going with 2x8 in that area? That would work?

[Ernest T. Bass]

Easiest way to fix that, (as pointed out in the thread), is to plane the ledger down a little bit. If you don't have a thickness planer, maybe you know someone who does? We planed our ledgers down to 1 1/4'' to be safe. Otherwise you might be better off with 1x6 (I'm not sure if I'd trust a 1x4... ) or something.

[PEG688]

Like Ernest T said thin down a 2x6 to 1 1/4" , as it's the depth of the notch not the width that is the sticking point.

On using 1x material you'd be hard pressed to get a structural grade 1 x 4 or 6 , they'd be common or utility grade.

You could go to a 5/4 x 6 in say VG Fir that would be code complicate by expensive for a framing member. So planing down a 2x6 to make it thinnner is what I've done on another story and 1/2 that we built after that original build that I took photo's of for the forum.


I still think the "extra" 1/8" is a moot point , but if your going to argue with a building inspector or dept , it's like wrestling with a pig in the mud , your both going to get dirty , but the pig likes it!

         

[schiada]

That is a great idea? THANKS!
You just made my drawing hand very happy!
A planer?   My bad! I think 2x6 planed would be better i my mind. If I had one.
Thanks for the link. That is a long read.
It shure would be great if their was list of thing to lookout for on the plans.

[schiada]

Well! removed some windows and installed bigger ones and added some panels. What do you think? And started thinking about the steel fireplace?

[MountainDon]

Maybe I missed it, but where is the design for the gambrel roof coming from?

[schiada]

Do you think that is a problem? John said just go to a truss builder and I would be good to go? I would not be building the truss system.

[MountainDon]

A truss factory is the place to go. Give them the plans or specs for everything else. They produce the engineering and make the trusses. When you pay them they give you the stamped drawings and the trusses. The stamped drawings are needed for the building permit.

[Ernest T. Bass]

It may not matter for a small place like yours, but I'd probably double the jack studs on any opening over 4'-5' on a load bearing wall.

I really like your drawings.. Some of the design is very similar to a place that we are just finishing up on. I need to get some pics..

[schiada]

Good. Now what do you think about the stud and sheating and blocking?
Also I am not a framer but am I looking at this stud plan wrong?

[schiada]

Thanks Bass. The big barn door is 6'4" but not in a load bearing wall.

[MountainDon]

You could go to a 5/4 x 6 in say VG Fir that would be code complicate by expensive for a framing member.
       

What about 5/4 x 6 PT deck boards. I think the ones I used were stamped 'select'?    I know there were southern pine,  but I'm not sure and don't want to crawl under the deck with a flashlight to check it out.

[PEG688]

What about 5/4 x 6 PT deck boards. I think the ones I used were stamped 'select'?    I know there were southern pine,  but I'm not sure and don't want to crawl under the deck with a flashlight to check it out.

It would depend on where you lived I guess.  I'd have to order SYP here in the PNW , and I wouldn't trust the 5/4 Spruce we stock around here for a ledger. We use it for paint grade exterior trim , corner boards , fascia , frieze,  etc.  And I pretty sure the 1x4 and 1x6 they stock is utility grade, we have some on the job I'm on , if I think of it I'll check the grade stamp on it tomorrow.

[schiada]

Also their is a opening from the two window wall to the loft joists.It is about 5'10". Can it be left open?