The Walls Are Up!

Started by pioneergal, January 25, 2006, 07:04:18 PM

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pioneergal

January 25, 2006, 07:04:18 PM Last Edit: January 25, 2006, 07:21:59 PM by pioneergal
I've finally stopped long enough to post of our progress.

We have all the exterior and interior walls up and its beginning to look like a house .

I tried posting some pictures but I kept getting the message that my image was too large and needed to be resized.

Maybe in a day or two I can stop long enough to do that so everyone can take a look at our project.

We did get some rain which caused a place or two on the subfloor to swell that we will probably need to replace.

The weather station is predicting a possible chance of rain on Friday and Saturday.

I don't care if it rains as long as it stays away from us until we can get that roof on and the sheathing around the exterior walls.

Unfortunatley, we don't have any control over the elements.

Jackie

Jimmy C.

#1
January 25, 2006, 07:51:17 PM


WALLS!

Feels good huh? ;D

I also got some of that rain. And a few ripples in two of my plywood sheets.
The hardest part is getting past the mental blocks about what you are capable of doing.
Cason 2-Story Project MY PROGRESS PHOTOS

pioneergal

#3
January 25, 2006, 11:26:23 PM
Quote

WALLS!

Feels good huh? ;D

I also got some of that rain. And a few ripples in two of my plywood sheets.


Yes Jimmy it feels great!  ;D

Will you need to replace the sheets of plywood or do you have another solution?

Jackie

Jimmy_Cason

#4
January 27, 2006, 09:14:04 AM Last Edit: January 27, 2006, 05:21:33 PM by Jimmy_Cason
Quote

Yes Jimmy it feels great!  ;D

Will you need to replace the sheets of plywood or do you have another solution?

Jackie

I have at least two sheets that are starting to get a wave pattern on the surface.
My first thought is painting with enamel like we talked about earlier. Then wait and see what it is going to do as far as warping. I put down 1-1/8" t&g plywood ($49.00 sheet)so I would rather make what I have now work if it is savable. I dont know if you can plane down or sand the plywood smooth again.
I will try.

By the way..... DONT THINK A TIGHT TARP WITH A PITCH WILL KEEP IT DRY. MINE FAILED...
I HAD TO CUT MY 25X40 TARP INTO 20 SECTIONS TO DRAIN ABOUT 50 GALLONS OUT OF EACH RAIN POCKET.

glenn-k

#5
January 27, 2006, 11:13:30 AM
So much for that idea eh?, Jimmy.

For the plywood problem - if it is decent underneath, just wait for when it's dry - remove the damaged section and repair the hole with Fixall - ancient product-fast setting and great -

pioneergal

#6
January 27, 2006, 01:44:52 PM Last Edit: January 27, 2006, 01:46:07 PM by pioneergal



Jimmy I hope that it works out for you........the tarp thing didn't work too well for us either.

When I saw the few places that had been damaged by water I honestly got sick at my stomach but then I realized that 's the risk

involved with a wood subfloor.

DH thinks that our floor is drying out and may be okay if we don't get any more rain.............keeping my fingers crossed.

We are hoping that within the next 2 weeks  we can get a roof over the house.

This inclimate weather and building as the money flows gets a little taxing on the nerves at this stage of the game.

But we are doing as much as we can as fast as we can trying to get to a point  that we can sit back and take sigh of relief.

Jackie







hobbiest

#7
January 27, 2006, 03:43:07 PM
is the subfloor not nailed down all the way?  nail schedule should be 6" on edges, 10 in the field (anything other than edges).  If not, you may be able to pull it back down with screws.  If so, I personally don't think that it ever should have happened.  May be defect.  I have been on jobs with heavy rain, standing water, and snow on the deck for days, and have not seen it buckle, or delaminate.

Jimmy_Cason

#8
January 27, 2006, 05:14:39 PM Last Edit: January 27, 2006, 07:27:59 PM by Jimmy_Cason
On mine it looks like only the top 1/8 inch is delaminating in a bubble about 5 inches by 1 inch wide.  That is only in a couple of places on two sheets.
I am glad that's the only thing I saw as a problem.

I got off work Tuesday at 6:30 p.m. and drove for 2-1/2 hours to the property.  
When I got there I had to work in front of the bright lights from my car.
I saw large pockets of water slowly draining on the floor in very small but steady streams.
I stabbed the tarp with my knife in several places and then had lots of water pouring down at once on the floor.
I soon found out that my floor was holding water up to 1-1/2" deep and not draining. I had not removed the bottom plates in the cut outs for the patio door or the front and back door! Then I dug through the trunk of my car, found a saw and cut bottom plates out. The water moved out very fast after that. I have been building this for a little over a year now and this has been my only set back.
(If it does turns out to be a set back). I consider myself lucky!

Solution-
In the future....

Remove the bottom plates from the exterior openings!
Drill a couple of 3/8"-1/2" drain holes in every sheet. Plug the holes later after dry in.
Some sort of sealant applied to the sub-floor and bottom plate.  
Tar paper covering the exterior plywood.
Temporary plywood window covers.  (Don't use tarps or plastic). The wind loved playing with those!
Don't start building until enough money has been saved to complete the framing on the first floor and install second floor sub-flooring.


pioneergal

#9
January 27, 2006, 06:22:27 PM
QuoteSo much for that idea eh?, Jimmy.

For the plywood problem - if it is decent underneath, just wait for when it's dry - remove the damaged section and repair the hole with Fixall - ancient product-fast setting and great -


Glenn,

Thanks for the info.
DH took another look at the plywood and it appears that we have only one  small spot that we will need to repair.
We will check at our local supply store for this product.

Jackie

glenn-k

#10
January 27, 2006, 06:28:27 PM
I used it 40 years ago - its a water based product - looks like drywall joint compound when mixed - dries fast and hard and not affected by water after dry.  In a green and yellow box or bag if I remember right.  Good for most of what ails ya'.

hobbiest

#11
January 28, 2006, 01:19:20 AM
If the spot is in a high traffic area, or could be subject to high loads, and carpet or linoleum will be laid directly over it you might want to consider bondo.  fixall will crack, and sometimes it can dissolve into a dust.  At least that happens on pool tables (3 pieces of slate, fixall commonly used to bridge the gap between, bondo better, me Tarzan).

hobbiest

#12
January 28, 2006, 01:20:28 AM
Forgot, for a good squegee for standing water, take a garden rake and put pipe insulation over the teeth.  Heard about this years ago in some home magazine.

pioneergal

#13
January 28, 2006, 07:27:37 PM Last Edit: January 28, 2006, 07:30:56 PM by pioneergal
Jimmy,

We tried something, a little time consuming but we got satisfactory results and it saved the subfloor.  

I purchased a roll of 4 mil visqueen(sp?) and cut it to fit each room of the house allowing enough to come up the side of the bottom plate all around the room.

DH came behind me nailing scrap peices of  wood (2x4 or  2x6) in the corners tight up against the bottom plate .

We also nailed blocking all along the bottom plates and closing any seams or joints with duct tape.

This morning we went out to check our floors to see if  our efforts and the visqueen (sp?) did any good.

Less than 2 hours later, after pulling the covering back and useing a Shop Vac where we spilled water while pulling back the visqueen we walked away with all floors dry except for a 8x10 area that was probably dry 30 minutes after we came home.

Jackie
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