14x24 big enchilda plan- I'm using 10" sonotubes. Upper side of hill should have 6x12 beam placed right on simpson onto the concrete tube. Lower end due to 3' change in elevation, I'm planing on having 4x6 posts on simson, then connector from top of post to beam.
Other plans that were mailed shows 14x24 with smaller piers, but these have the beam somewhat offset and inside the perimeter. That plans shows bracing from the posts to the floor joists. Since my sonotubes are right under the beam, at the perimeter, then where would I place any diagonal bracing? Back towards the middle to a floor joist, or to the beam? What about the corners? Or do I even need them?
I also plan on adding two more sonotubes on the lower elevation end at 4ft intervals. So that beam will have more than the plan of 4.
Question 2.
Since I'll be building up the beams from (3) 2x12 with plywood spacers- the plans say "glue with adhesive"
Someone told me the glue has to be "structural glue", so that no movement is allowed. Weldwood Marince resorcinol glue is exterior, but it costs $24 for a pint and 115 sq ft coverage for a gallon. It would cost hundreds of dollars. Weldwood has plastic resin glue, but it says for indoors. It is cheap. Am I too worried about this ? Should I just get some cartridges of exterior construction glue?
Thanks for all the support from everyone.
When I started building boats the difference between waterproof resorcinol glue and water resistant plastic resin glue was that the resorcinol would withstand a boiling test.
Many boats have been built with plastic resin glue. I built several wooden masts and booms with it and they are subject to far greater strains than any house beam. It requires temps of 70 deg F during the curing process.
Keep the containers tightly covered.... the stuff readily absorbs moisture and begins to cure in the container. Don't ask how I know this d*
If the sonotubes are well set into the ground you probably don't need braces if they go to the top. If you see the need for bracing you can put anchors into the side of the sonotube with a rotohammer then brace off of that.
thanks everyone.
On the bracing. One side has just the concrete sonotube piers with beam right on top. (no questions about that).
the other side will have the piers, then the 4x6 post on top, then the beam on top of that. That's what I'm asking - if those wooden posts need bracing???
I would definitely brace those.
I mis-understood. The posts will have a hinge point at the bottom so as Don said -- bracing is in order.
Yes brace those taller posts. I show a simple way in the plans. Here is a photo of a more sturdy bracing that involves bolted plates for reinforcement. This was engineered for heavy earthquake country. The important element here is the 45ยบ angle braces.
(https://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g166/jraabe/bracing-1.jpg)
That's the shortest flue I've ever seen on what appears to be a water heater.
NO -- I have the shortest, Don -- none at all--
The fire chief put his in his attic with no flue also. ::)