OKLAHOMA 20X30 SINGLE STORY

Started by astidham, May 07, 2010, 08:29:11 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 3 Guests are viewing this topic.

astidham

other side fascia and rake trim installed, just the ridge cap left!

"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Mrdecatur217

wow son you did an awesome job on this roof and outside work,. i am very proud of you natalie said she was very impresses


astidham

"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

dug

Looking nice!

Are you going to build a deck off the area where the large door opening is?

astidham

Quote from: dug on November 08, 2010, 05:45:20 PM
Looking nice!

Are you going to build a deck off the area where the large door opening is?
Yes dug, I am going to cover and deck the door side and the two sides opposite!
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford


astidham

Roof is Finished!!!!!
What a great feeling!


The roof and my shop are both supposed to be rustic red  ??? somehow I just don't see it.
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

Redoverfarm

Good job astidham.  Must feel good to have a waterproof roof.  Are you planning to get the siding material on, if so what did you decide on?  Or maybe you are now moving onto the inside. ;D

astidham

Thanks Redoverfarm
T1-11 siding first, I plan on priming, painting then installing!
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

ScottA

Looking pretty nice.  :) Congratulations on the roof.


MountainDon

Quote from: astidham on November 09, 2010, 03:43:12 PM

T1-11 siding first, I plan on priming, painting then installing!

Painting or staining one side of plywood before installation may be a bad idea. Sometimes the same can be said for boards. When one side is moistened (paint/stain) and allowed to dry the result will be warped panels. You may be able to get it all laid flat and nailed down but it may make for added difficulty. Differential drying is what happens to sometimes make the plywood sheets come pre warped from the store/yard.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

astidham

Quote from: MountainDon on November 09, 2010, 04:28:32 PM
Quote from: astidham on November 09, 2010, 03:43:12 PM

T1-11 siding first, I plan on priming, painting then installing!

Painting or staining one side of plywood before installation may be a bad idea. Sometimes the same can be said for boards. When one side is moistened (paint/stain) and allowed to dry the result will be warped panels. You may be able to get it all laid flat and nailed down but it may make for added difficulty. Differential drying is what happens to sometimes make the plywood sheets come pre warped from the store/yard.
I should install first then paint MountainDon?
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

ScottA

I avoid T1-11 like the plague. I used it on an outbuilding a few years ago. It was very costly to paint (soaked up alot of paint). After only 4 years the bottom edge is seperating. It already needs to be repainted in those areas.

astidham

Quote from: ScottA on November 09, 2010, 09:04:42 PM
I avoid T1-11 like the plague. I used it on an outbuilding a few years ago. It was very costly to paint (soaked up alot of paint). After only 4 years the bottom edge is seperating. It already needs to be repainted in those areas.
ScottA, thanks for the info, unfortunately I already bought 5/8 T&G plywood T1-11.
on the up-side i got it for $15.00 a sheet.
Do you think if I paint it a couple of years consecutive, it will last?
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

MountainDon

Yes, install first.

How far above ground is the bottom of the sheet? Protect it against ground splash. Gutters help.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


astidham

Quote from: MountainDon on November 09, 2010, 09:14:17 PM
Yes, install first.

How far above ground is the bottom of the sheet? Protect it against ground splash. Gutters help.
Minimum 2.5 feet
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

ScottA

If you keep the spash off it may do better. I'd pay careful attention to sealing that bottom edge really well. Maybe put some expensive acrylic enamel on it before you paint.

Ndrmyr

Depending on the thickness of your T-111, you may be able to pick up some vinyl J-Channel that will cap the bottom edge.  I sheathed my place with 3/4" (yeah, I know!) and had some trim metal left over and had a guy put it in the brake and bend a J, 2" on the back and 1" on the front.  A narrow crown staple will hold it nicely and you can either nail it to the sill, or directly to the T-111.  I stapled it to the sill in a bed of silicone and kept the sheathing off the bottom about 3/8" of an inch. If I was capping T-111, I would use stainless staples.
"A society that rewards based on need creates needy citizens. A society that rewards based on ability creates able one."

MountainDon

Quotecap the bottom edge.
??? not a good idea, IMO. Water will find its way into that and be more trouble than if left alone. Also do not rest the bottom edge of the sheet on anything. There should be a gap to prevent water from bridging and wicking up into the sheet. That's especially important if you have one sheet above the other on a wall. There are z-strips available that should be used in that case.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Don_P

I agree with that. I have pretty much the same opinion regarding paint in many applications. Finishes that form a film work great as long as the film is intact. when the film cracks or if water gets in behind the film it is a composting bag. a drop of water that gets behind a film is converted to several cubic feet of vapor that is trying to leave once it warms up. If it can't get out the moisture content of the siding rises. I prefer finishes like stains that repel liquid water but allow water vapor to get back out. I've got 25 year old T1-11 on a shed here that has been motor oiled twice I think (not that I'm suggesting that), still in good shape. I had always planned to just use that as a temporary sheathing and cover it with another siding later.

astidham

Quote from: Don_P on November 10, 2010, 08:51:10 PM
I agree with that. I have pretty much the same opinion regarding paint in many applications. Finishes that form a film work great as long as the film is intact. when the film cracks or if water gets in behind the film it is a composting bag. a drop of water that gets behind a film is converted to several cubic feet of vapor that is trying to leave once it warms up. If it can't get out the moisture content of the siding rises. I prefer finishes like stains that repel liquid water but allow water vapor to get back out. I've got 25 year old T1-11 on a shed here that has been motor oiled twice I think (not that I'm suggesting that), still in good shape. I had always planned to just use that as a temporary sheathing and cover it with another siding later.
Don_P, who makes this type of stain and where could i get it?
how often would you think it would need re applied?
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford


jan nikolajsen


dug

There are a lot of choices but I'm not sure what the best would be. I used a solid color stain on my T1-11 sheathed tool shed and it is holding up well after 3+ years. It goes on like paint but as Don stated doesn't form a top film.

Like I said, lot's of options and some are probably better than others but I second the motion for stain over paint on the T1-11. The rough surface soaks up a lot so I diluted mine a bit, seemed to work well.

astidham

Quote from: dug on November 10, 2010, 09:27:07 PM
There are a lot of choices but I'm not sure what the best would be. I used a solid color stain on my T1-11 sheathed tool shed and it is holding up well after 3+ years. It goes on like paint but as Don stated doesn't form a top film.

Like I said, lot's of options and some are probably better than others but I second the motion for stain over paint on the T1-11. The rough surface soaks up a lot so I diluted mine a bit, seemed to work well.
Thanks dug.
my wife and I want the look of wood but was afraid it may not hold up.
Is the stain also weather resistant?
"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford

dug

They are weather resistant. There are oil based and water based versions, most would say the oil based are better but I used a water based product on mine. I'm a real numbskull when it comes to finishes so maybe someone else can make a recommendation. There is also everything from clear to solid stains. A semi solid stain, for example, would show some grain but cover a bit more like paint. I think the solid tones are more UV resistant, as opposed to the clear ones.

astidham

"Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice"
— Henry Ford