A little nervous with my block layer!!!!

[2zwudz]

    I have chose to have my block foundation done by a block layer instead of doing it myself because I don't think I can get it done before the weather becomes an issue.  Now I am beginning to think the block layer I have chosen may be an issue.  He said he will get started tuesday so he could take advantage of the weather we are having, but didn't show.  I have been trying to contact him by his cell phone since last saturday but he will not answer his phone. I was wanting to tell him all the material is in place and if he needs anything else to please call me.  I finally got thru to him last night and he said he will probably get started this weekend. This is really making me think I need to stop(fire) him before he gets started and do it myself or find another block layer. I made it very clear to him the first time we looked at the job that I need this done before the weather becomes an issue and he agreed. I let him know last night that I am not happy.
  How have you guys handled these situations before

Mark

[Redoverfarm]

Good Luck Mark.  I had one lay my chimney. Not a lot to chose from in this area.  They laid all w/exception of the last 5 courses.  It was a couple days before deer season and they said they would be back in a week or so after season. I told him not if he thought he was going to get paid. . Ended up his son said he would finish on Sunday if I would help. We did and the week of Thanksgiving I managed to fill the cavity with stone and poured the top cap.  Even if I have to import one to do any other job I will.  They amoung other trades are a dwendling breed and pretty independent.  As far as getting another I think you would be hard pressed if he does good work you may just have to work his schedule

[John_C]

Nothing too unusual in that scenario. It's a holiday, it's hunting season it's.........   One would think it would be different with so many in the trades out of work.  Block work, drywall and painters have always seemed to be the least reliable at showing up as promised.

If you have paid them any money in advance it will be difficult to get it back if you fire them.  Pay for materials yourself.  Have them sign off that they haven't charged anything to the job.  You don't want a supplier to slap a lien on your place for stuff you didn't even know they had charged.

At least for today put it aside, have a great day and get stuffed.... I know I will.

[2zwudz]

    Yes I have paid for the material and no I have not paid the block layer.  Not only does him not getting started bother me but the lack of communication is an issue.  If something isn't done correct and I need him to come back to fix it how difficult will that be???  I have a feeling that he(like most block layers,drywallers and painters) has chose to deal with not being bothered by phone calls by just not answering.HAHA  You would think that they would be hungry for work.

Thanks
Mark

[JRR]

There are some masons hungry for work ... and some are more responsible than others ...   But most "over promise",  they probably really expect they can do all that they promise, just poor planning.

I'd fire your guy pretty quickly ... or, adjust my expectations.

[2zwudz]

     (I'd fire your guy pretty quickly)
This is what I am thinking before he gets started.  I think I will give him until sunday and if nothing has been started then I may take some vacation time from work and do it myself.  How long should it take a guy who has never done any block work before?  Its a 672 block job. I am a guy who likes to learn and do new things so it would be fun....I think. HAHA.

Mark

[apaknad]

another good reason to do as much as you can by yourself.

[apaknad]

i think you should fire him before he starts.

[glenn kangiser]

     (I'd fire your guy pretty quickly)
This is what I am thinking before he gets started.  I think I will give him until sunday and if nothing has been started then I may take some vacation time from work and do it myself.  How long should it take a guy who has never done any block work before?  Its a 672 block job. I am a guy who likes to learn and do new things so it would be fun....I think. HAHA.



Mark

If you just stack them and use the surface bonding system as detailed by Tony N74TG, you should be done within a week.  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=3711.0

[n74tg]

Mark:
Just build them yourself.  The drystack method is forgiving.  You can do this; just get started.  Mine took a long time because I had 157 linear feet of wall to build, "averaging" 4-5 feet tall and I wasn't nearly as diligent at sticking too it as I could have been. 

Tony

[2zwudz]

  Tony
When filling the cells with rebar in them can I fill with the premixed mortar (70 bags) that I have already paid to have delivered?

Thanks Mark

[OldDog]

I have never understood people in business who are less dependable than a "Dollar Watch"

They will try and make you feel it's your fault that they haven't done what they promised or haven't had the courtesy to contact you if there is a problem.

If you make a man a promise you should do as agreed!

[JRR]

  ..... premixed mortar (70 bags) that I have already paid to have delivered?

Thanks Mark

Now, this sounds like a bit of a problem.  That's quite a bit of premix mortar to have on hand at one time.  It's going to be difficult for one person to use that much mortar, without it getting moist and hardening in the bag, unless he can be fully dedicated and work solely on the block laying task.  Can you cancel or reduce this order?

I usually mix my own mortar, but have used premixed at times.  When using premix, I still like to have some masonry cement and some portland cement on hand to add to the premix for some additional strength and workability.  I don't buy many bags ahead of time ... usually a total of a dozen bags, of all kinds, is all I want at one time.

I'm not very quick/skilled at block laying.  If everything is on hand, including the beer, I usually can get 100 blocks layed a day working alone ... depends on the nature of the job.

[2zwudz]

   The 70 bags of mortar mix are already on site and covered with plastic. Like I said I have everything there and ready for him to start. What do the pre mix bags lack that mixing yourself provides?

Mark

[glenn kangiser]

Mixing yourself as JRR stated could provide a stronger mix or he adds cement to the premix.

Note that the drystacked method with the surface bonding requires a different mix with fibers in it.  Check Tony's blog for info on it.

For the cells with rebar, I would add some gravel to the mix for greater strength if it is not to much problem.  You can buy it in bulk at a concrete plant or some Home Depots have big bulk bags of it.

[2zwudz]

   Glenn
    Thanks for all of your responses. You are always good about helping.
You said to put gravel in with the pre mix bag of mortar mix when putting it in the rebar cells, how much gravel would you recommend per bag? Would you recommend using the drystacking method even though the foundation wall will be 8 block high?

Thanks again
Mark

[glenn kangiser]

You could do it either way.  I was just thinking it may be easier for you but you could do mortar if you like.  You should study up a bit but they use a story pole and string with the string set to the top corner of the block on the plumb pole.  The string is moved up after each course of blocks..  I have seen them build the corners first then make the interior come out as it is supposed to.  This was a multi man crew.  The blocks come to the string with mortar but just miss it by about 1/8 ".

The surface bonding cement is claimed to be as strong or stronger than the poured blocks even for a full height wall - be sure to use the proper SBC and follow instructions though - then I think they use a bond beam and rebar at the top, with a layer of felt under the top block, to keep from filling the lower blocks except where you want a column or pier.. 

You simply stack the blocks dry as fast as you can stack them, taking time for the bond beam and piers as needed.

The standard Concrete mix is 1 cement, 2 sand, 3 gravel.  I would say with mortar mix you would go 3 mortar mix (cement and sand) 3 gravel - possibly add a bit of cement if you want a stronger mix but the gravel should make it stronger anyway.

[JRR]

Here is some info on various mason mortar grades:
http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/how-to/articles/mortar-what-type-need.aspx
.
I think most premix from the big-box stores is "N" grade. 

[davidj]

I did our foundation this Summer and it wasn't as hard as I thought to lay the blocks.  It was about 100ft x 4 ft - around 480 blocks.  I used the "speed blocks" that don't use mortar at the ends, which are pretty easy to use (although I think they do have to be fully grouted).  With pretty much no experience (and the body of someone who sits at a desk all day!) I started out at about 40 blocks/day but was at something like 100 blocks/day by the end.  The long, straight bits aren't too bad at all - it's really easy to follow the line - but corners and ends I found more fiddly.

We used type S mortar, as recommended by our local lumber yard, for setting the blocks.  However we didn't use much of it - the estimates I found on the web for regular blocks were about a factor of 2 out for our job (I assume because of no mortar on the ends of the blocks).  There's nothing like paying for delivery then having to haul half of it back yourself!

For grouting (filling the inside of all the blocks, as required around our way), we blew the money on a truck and pump - about $1400 given we're 40 mins drive from the supplier.  The whole things used about 6 yards but was done in an hour!

[n74tg]

Mark:
Sorry it took so long for response, but we were/and still are traveling for Thanksgiving.  Yes, I think you can use the mortar (in place of actual concrete) to fill the block cells, but like Glenn and everyone else says, add some portland to it and some gravel, rock, etc also.  I'd say maybe use one bag of portland (92 lbs) for say every ten bags of mortar.  Between the additions portland and rock, you will be pretty closely approximating regular concrete.  I'd be a little worried if you just filled the cells with mortar only. 

By all means, do put in a bond beam as the top layer.  Read my blog on how to cut out the blocks and lay in the rebar for the bond beam, or of course you could buy bond beam blocks, but they are mucho expensive.

If you have any pics along the way, post them, so we can keep up with your progress.

good luck

[sharbin]

I feel your pain. My contractor waited till we started to have snow before starting the work and now he is asking for extra money because of the "extraordinary circumstances" that I was warning him about. Heck they are announcing a nice weather this weekend and a couple feet of snow on Monday and onward, yet he does not want to sacrifice his weekend and is choosing to take the chances of not completing the roof if the snow blocks the road (5 kms stretch of road that is not cleared  )
Buttom line, if you choose to keep him make sure that you put it in writting that the price will not change no matter what.

[glenn kangiser]

Mark, here is a method that can greatly speed up the movement of your blocks around your building site.  Sent by a friend in AU.

[2zwudz]

   Now.....If that guy would be willing to relocate, I would pay him better than union wage!!! I would even throw in a new boat for a signing bonus!!!

Mark

[n74tg]

And to think... he's probably making a whole dollar a day.