20'X32' with loft in S. Missouri

Started by Jeff W, July 30, 2015, 07:16:01 PM

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Jeff W

Akwoodchuck. The footing for the center is just how it is going to stay. Originally I was just going to poor 3 2'x2' pads for those jacks. Back fill is not deep enough or heavy enough to concern me.
  The board the porch rafters are sitting on is 2"x10" I had several left over and they are pretty darn strong. Snow load here is minimal, we get some good snows at times but 6" is a pretty hard snow for us.


Vickeyd, no beam, 2"x10" board. The plans have homemade trusses built out of 2x6's and plywood. 2x6 rafters like I did calls for a 2x8 or wide enough to keep the entire face of the rafter on the board to prevent splitting, cut angle will determine what board Width is needed, I'm beyond that. With the collar ties and beams it is not going anyplace. And on the loft end it will also get a knee wall that's 4' tall that will help some.
  The house is solid. Considering some are building on peers, I'm glad I did not.

vickeyd

I'm so glad I stumbled upon your thread. After reading over it again I realize you are doing what I had in mind. Loft at one end and open ceiling over living area. I didn't want the look of exposed trusses but wasn't sure how safe it would be with exposed rafters. I really like the dormer too. Oh one more question, how tall are your side walls and is there good headroom in the loft? Well maybe two questions. Anyway keep up the good work, you are making great progress.


Jeff W

Headspace in the loft room is plentyful. From the floor to the tie collars overhead is 8'8" the floor space is 12' x 20', but I can walk to the roof line opposite the dormer and my head would contact the ceiling when I'm 4' from the end. So loft is 16'x12'. The rafters for the dormer land above the windows 7' above the floor.

The outside walls are 10' but the interior walls are 8'1" and the 2x10 joist for the loft sit on those.
 
  The dormer is 7' wide with the two windows. And my rafters will not be exposed, by the time I insulate and put finishing on they will be covered.



In this picture, the roll of leftover house wrap is where my head would hit. I'm 5'11".


Rys

Love the visual. This is the plan I have and we too want to add a dormer.
It's hard to get a feel for things when it's just on paper.   ???

Don_P

It would be better to frame this with a structural ridgebeam, probably a couple of LVL's, preferably with two support posts inside as well as the end walls. Dormers add non uniform loads most of the time and it's a good idea to make the ridge a beam.

You can frame heavier trusses spaced through the building instead of the support posts, they in turn support sections of ridgebeam. That is effectively what this is but the sizes of the members and the connections should be designed to resist local loads. The lower beams here resist the accumulated horizontal load from several rafters, the connections and timbers can be checked against that load and carrying the sections of ridgebeam between each of those truss assemblies.

The porch beams aren't hard to size, this is the method;
If the porch is 12' deep, half of that rafter width is bearing on the house wall, half on the carry beam on the posts. The overhang is entirely bearing on the carry beam. Assuming a 1' overhang that would give 7' of "tributary width" bearing on the beam. If the post to post spacing is 10' then the tributary area bearing on the beam is 70 square feet. In MO I think 30 pounds per square foot would be close, 2100 lbs on a 10' span.
There are other beam calcs, they should be in general agreement.
http://www.timbertoolbox.com/Calcs/beamcalc.htm
Load=2100
Span=120
Width=3
Depth=9.25
Fb=1000
E=1.4
Fv=135
If you back out the 3" width (a double 2x10) and input 1.5", you'll see it fails under full load.

The beam is carrying 2100 lbs so the connection at each end needs to be capable of supporting 1050 lbs, the real way of doing that is to notch the post to accept the beam. One detail is to notch 1.5" in from each face and run a 2x6 ripped to 2.5" wide vertically between the beams and up alongside of the rafter, this forms the hurricane tie and really locks the rafter to beam well.


Jeff W

#30
Don, your saying the way I have the porch fails? Personally load IMO won't be the problem I was concerned with, what concerned me is lift from high winds, so I bought the metal straps that nail from rafter to beam for that purpose.  The beam I have, I'm going to bolt to the timbers soon, and those get covered on each side later, I'm sure this will ad strength, plus I'm wanting to put 4x4s from post to beam in a Y to help with load and add to the look of things. So yeah, the porches are not finished by far, but I needed them framed up to get metal roofing on the whole house ASAP.

Don_P

You can check the actual numbers the same way I did the example, but yes, that should be a double.

Jeff W

Got the front side under steel roofing..get the back side tomorrow and all the trim finished. Then I will get started with putting in Y brace timbers on the porch. and this weekend im going to finish getting wood stove in.



  I was not thinking clearly when I purchased the flashing for the Stove Pipe, it goes back, and a boot is going on. glad I did not fasten it down.







Jeff W



vickeyd

Nice job!! Wish I could start on mine but too close to winter now,  but then it rains most of spring and then summers are extremely hot and humid. Can't predict Mother Nature so I might just go ahead and jump in. Winter here is pretty mild until February (usually).

schiada

Looks "GREAT" !

For someone getting started,what would you tell them not to do ?

Randy

Jeff W

Well, im going WAY out on a limb, and I am liable to get bashed...but I would not build this on piers. wooden, concrete or otherwise. you put your money into this, you want it on a good foundation, I was back and forth on this more than I can say, and decided that foundation was just simpler and better in the long run. I walk around this house and I try to imagine it sitting on top of sticks poking out of the ground and cringe. I know, I know, it may work fine, many a home has been built that way, but its someone elses home, besides, getting a bank to loan money on a house sitting on piers is going to be rough, the banks around here wont do it at all, period...that's a resale problem.

  and one more, Don't start this in July or August when the temps and humidity are high...it was unbearable most of those days and the constant sweating, it was all I could do to stay hydrated.

Don_P


SWOzarks

Hi Jeff,

Awesome project to date! I'm not far away in SW MO and am contemplating a similar project (or might also go with a garage with apartment above). I've 10 acres just like you do with minimal codes/restrictions.

For a while, you were updating with costs, etc. Would you mind telling us your costs to date?


akwoodchuck

Quote from: Jeff W on November 10, 2015, 06:38:33 PM


  and one more, Don't start this in July or August when the temps and humidity are high...it was unbearable most of those days and the constant sweating, it was all I could do to stay hydrated.

I couldnt agree more....really sucks starting a build in august when winter starts in september  d*
"The lyf so short, the craft so long to lerne."

Jeff W

Quote from: SWOzarks on November 12, 2015, 10:31:29 AM
Hi Jeff,

Awesome project to date! I'm not far away in SW MO and am contemplating a similar project (or might also go with a garage with apartment above). I've 10 acres just like you do with minimal codes/restrictions.

For a while, you were updating with costs, etc. Would you mind telling us your costs to date?

I have kinda lost track, but soon I'm going to sit down and go through all the receipts, log siding has been ordered and once I get it on I will do just that.

I do know the metal roof was done by a friend who is in the roofing business and he saved me about $2k, he charged me $4000. Even for materials and labor. The log siding is 10 flat hand hewn simulated look, and 7 gal of sealer/stain costed me just over $5000.

schiada

Jeff, are your walls 2x6 x 10' or 2x6 12' ?

vickeyd

In an earlier post he said they are 10'.

schiada


Jeff W

Been a while, and honestly I still have not sat down and figured up all my costs to date. but I left you when the roof got put on, so a bit of an update.

I trenched and laid in my 200 amp service. I wanted the lines buried and i used 2" Schedule 40 Conduit to put the service wire in.





Also ran the water line and wires from my well head to the cabin at the same time. When I get ready to hook the well up, I am going to pour concrete around the well head, and build an insulated well house around it. I will place the Pressure tank in the well house, and will have a heater to keep things from freezing in the winter. on the outside I plan to make the well house look like an Outhouse. the Top will be removable for times when the pump must be pulled. The top half of this pump house will be storage for water hoses and things of that sort as well. At least I have a plan of some sort. 180' for electric, another 40 ft for the water lines.



Spent quite some time staining the log siding, and finally got time to install it, i still have the dormer to finish up and trim around the windows/doors and corners. here is the first days work. and then the finished siding.







Putting in the last pc. I don't know what this 1.5" siding, sheathing and wrap will bring the R value up to, but I can easily heat the place now and it don't have no insulation.



All that's left outside pretty much is the dormer, about half a days work. Soffits and Decks, going to put the Soffits and the porch decks off right now, I have moved to the inside now and running all my Electric and plumbing so I can get the place insulated. Nothing you see here has a penny against it, it is all paid for in full, including the 10 acres it sits on, so it is taking longer to get things done. but i do have it dried in and not having to worry about wet weather.

For you people watching the pricing, sorry I lost track, I keep saying im going to get things added up, and I will sometime, I promise, and the prices will be broke down into blocks if I can.


vickeyd

Wow!! Nice siding. What is it? You've came a long way and it looks great.

Jeff W

Quote from: vickeyd on February 13, 2016, 12:16:33 AM
Wow!! Nice siding. What is it? You've came a long way and it looks great.

vickeyd, that is 10" flat log siding with Hand hewn look. I put two coats of Sikkens Proluxe Natural Oak stain.  I found this siding locally here and it is called Teton.

  Once the Decks are on the front and back, the ends of the house I will cover with Rock up to the bottom of the siding to cover the foundation and joists. I am kind of looking at the panels that look like rock, as that may just be easier and look fine.

Jeff W

Have a question, when I built this I put wrap on over my sheathing. Now I am going to buy insulation, found it on sale and saving a ton. Can I use insulation with the backing? In conjunction with the wrap on the outside? Or will that set up a condensation problem?

MountainDon

If the wrap you used on the outside is the usual housewrap and the insulation is fiberglass with kraft paper facing that is fine. Housewrap is an air barrier with microperf's to allow water vapor to pass through.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Rys

Love the look of the log siding. Can't wait to see the stone on the foundation. Bet it will look great!