What material are people using for flashing (really termite shield for me) on top of the block under the sill plate? I read that I should not mix metals. So I need to decide before I put in my J bolts in the bond beam - what material the sill flashing will be so I can make the bolts (nails from the I-joists?) the same material.
I was considering Stainless until I priced ss simpson brackets for my deck :o I assume 29g stainless flashing would also be insane.
Anything I can mix (been a while since chemistry)? stainless and hot dipped (zinc)? Copper (since it's cheap) and Stainless? AL and anything?
Sill will probably be Yellawood ACQ.
Thanks!
Quote....... Copper (since it's cheap) \
Say what? Copper pipe is really high right now. I can't imaging roll copper being cheap.
I don't have any experience with th new PT lumber but I'm wondering if there isn't a plastic or pvc alternative. Another idea would be to use aluminum and then put a layer or two of plastic between the aluminum and sill plate as a galvanic break.
I've also seen some debates that the termite shield isn't worth the expense... maybe John could provide some insight there.
I've never installed a termite shield in either RI or Wa. state,
here's a few links to what being said ,
http://www.coastalcontractor.net/cgi-bin/article.pl?id=39
http://www.southernpine.com/termiteinfo3.shtml
http://www.lsuagcenter.com/en/family_home/home/design_construction/Safer+Stronger+Smarter/Durability+Hazards/Termites/Termite+Resistance.htm
I'd think if you live where termites are a big issue a local lumber yard would have the right stuff.
You are right about the ACQ lumber it's a metal eater, mixing metals would only make matters worst.
G/L report back with what your research finds .
PEG
QuoteQuote....... Copper (since it's cheap) \
Say what? Copper pipe is really high right now. I can't imaging roll copper being cheap.
Sorry - implied ;) .
Copper would run over 2x 304 stainless right now. It was the only thing I could think of more expensive - although... gold is fairly non-reactive. Maybe you could pan enough there for flashing ;).
Quote
I don't have any experience with th new PT lumber but I'm wondering if there isn't a plastic or pvc alternative. Another idea would be to use aluminum and then put a layer or two of plastic between the aluminum and sill plate as a galvanic break.
I've also seen some debates that the termite shield isn't worth the expense... maybe John could provide some insight there.
I thought about painting the flashing with the same waterproofing stuff I'll use on the block. It would be right there handy. Then put a layer of plastic on top of that. The paint would get in the cracks and next to the bolts.
QuoteI've never installed a termite shield in either RI or Wa. state,
I'd think if you live where termites are a big issue a local lumber yard would have the right stuff.
You are right about the ACQ lumber it's a metal eater, mixing metals would only make matters worst.
G/L report back with what your research finds .
PEG
I'll check with the building supplies here.
I did find some plastic ones at HD (Don't worry PEG - I was only buying lumber from the cull bins). Which by the way had two 4x4 sheets of what looked to be 1" thick plywood for a $1 each. It was thicker than 3/4s. No room in the truck, but I may go back -even though I don't have a need for them yet.
I don't know how this would work for buildings but back in the old days the farmers would soak the fence posts in creosote to keep the bugs from eating them. Maybe you could soak the sill plate boards before you put them on or paint it on somehow. In Hawaii they just put everything up on posts and pillars and use tangle foot and then spray the heck out of the lawns etc. It seems to me that the termites could just crawl over and around the metal flashings?
I don't think John Q. Public can buy Cresote these days . Good stuff.
Guy #1 at a local building supply - I just built my house and we used AL flashing under the PT sill plate. It will be fine.
Guy #2 at a local building supply - I know they changed the stuff in the PT lumber does the new stuff still corrode metal? I don't think you need a PT sill - unless code requires it.
Guy #2 makes a good point actually (but may not be up on ACQ). My block wall is 4ft off the ground. If I flash well and seal the bolt holes there will be no wood to concrete contact. Thoughts?
I actually liked this building supply best. They were very willing to help me.
You could use Red Cedar or maybe Cypress instead of ACQ , some builder here in Wa. state are doing that, they use local Red Cedar the Cypress may be yoyr "local" choice? Not sure on that, the Vycor can e consided a break / barrier between as well .
Our local is eastern red cedar - which is actually a juniper. It is bug/rot resistant. It splits badly. It smells great! I don't think it would come in very large boards - sort of small trees (big bushes for you PNW folks). PEG, you should come build something down here sometime - check out the termites and humidity.
I'm going to go down the barrier path for now and ask some other locals.
One word for you Mark Borates
Idea #1 http://www.safelumber.com/ ... Ringold GA
#2 http://www.aloghomestore.com/borates.shtml
I'd use pt lumber of some sort. A few years ago I had to replace the sill plates and some joist headers on a 2 story log home due to rot. I hope I never have to jack up another VERY HEAVY house.
Borates are water soluble so put a sealer over them such as DEFY - a pretty decent waterproofer. I don't know about the longevity of th\is method - as PEG says - DEPENDS.
Borates on the ground may discourage them also -- plants probably won't like it though - Borates are pretty safe.