Hi there,
I just got my plans from John on Saturday. I'll be changing them to suit us like most others, but want to get feedback from others' experiences in using the plans.
I'm going to add 8 feet to the length, and elevate the slab for the foundation. Also, I'm planning of a wraparound porch on two sides and a full floor upstairs instead of the loft to use the windows easily at each end and give room for storage, and then I'll also add a ground floor bedroom off to one side for the master bedroom. It will have 2 bathrooms (one upstairs) and a glass room off on the kitchen side as an enclosed porch for our bird's room (Quida is a blue and gold macaw). She kind of hard to live with unless you accommodate her with her own room.
Anyway, I've been more lurk than participate, and now I hope that will change. I've been very inspired by the success stories.
I'm attaching a picture of my plans. The house will go behind my sculpture gardens that are behind my gallery. The septic tank is already in place, and we have a drilled well on the property already so the permits, and foundation are next....
I'm having it dried in by a building contractor and will do the interior with my husband on weekends.
We are living in an old 23 foot airstream and a yurt while we work on the house....
Probably too much information, but I'm excited that this week is here...my plans are here! my plans are here!
Christina
(https://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g166/jraabe/house_plan.jpg)
Great to see things getting started for you Christina. We're excited for you too.
If you can top me for too much information, then we will start worrying about you. :)
Great to hear!
An Airstream is not all that bad. Spent my last year in high school in one myself.
No, I am not complaining about the airstream, but it is 35 years old, has been kind of wrecked, and the last owner put bondo over who-knows-what and painted the poor thing with grey primer. It will take us a month to remove the paint and bondo someday before we can even know what we have to fix. Then we will resurface the alluminum to a good shine.
Meanwhile, we're living in it. Airstreams are fine travel trailers. I look forward to using it as a camper again.
Christina
Think nothing of it Christina. I lived in a horse trailer when we started the underground complex and you know how much class I have. :o :)
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/P1000176.jpg)
Glenn-I guess now we all know where you end up when you start acting like a horse's behind!
Christina-Trailer was great when it was just myself - I can understand it being a totally different story when you have to share it, etc.
Good luck and look forward to watching your progress...
Chris
You got it Chris. We don't even have a horse. Sassy bought it just for me. :) :-/
Is there a story behind the odd shaped dent on the front?
(https://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d184/glennkangiser/P1000176.jpg)
This is what I see.....
(https://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c371/casonjimmy/GLENNSMASH.jpg)
Where's the shaggy beard?
I was expecting something like...
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/d/d3/Hagarthehorrible.gif)
You guys. :o
Not a dent. It's a feather for Featherlite. A brand name of trailer. I don't think I made any booboo's with it and haven't pulled it in several years. I bought it to use on long jobs so I could bunk in the front and put tools in the back - a lockup.
It sleeps 4, in the front - has a shower, kitchen - sink - stove - microwave-fridge- closet- cabinets -had TV , queen bed in the front- bunks in the middle, storage and workbenches in the back.
The other little denty looking things are just dimples from the rivets. Oh-- that's where you see the little face -- just saw it.
go to 36 or 40 feet in length divide by 4 ie easier to build will cost about the same 35 vs 40
Things have been moving along slowly since I received my house plans. I have had to get lots of things done to prep for the construction.
The septic system has a "go" tag on it now. It passed inspection.
The entire driveway has to be graveled and crowned with heavy equipment ...$1800.00 to be done in about 2 weeks.
The contractors has all been here to inspect the job site in order to give a quote on the elevated slab foundation. He assures me it will be no problem.
We've also gotten the measurements all worked out so that the house will "fit" where I want it. the septice system already being in place and the property line were givens so that the measurements of the house had to fit in there just right, and it does.
The design has changed a bit to have 4 foot knee walls upstairs and will include a 10 foot shed roof on one side to enlarge the upstairs room a bit. I have also shortened the house to 36 feet to save on materials as was suggested on this forum...thanks for that.
The one drawing from the plans that I scanned (badly) is what I'm posting a picture of. It will have decorative windows in the front, tin roof, concrete 10 foot porches on 2 sides, wooden siding that will be lap siding on some parts, board and baton on the extension bedroom (14 X 16 off to the right) and shingles on the shed roof upstairs and the front. I'm a wood carver so there will be lots of hand-carved trim throughout.
Suggestions and comments are always welcome. Headaches can be avoided.
Thanks,
Christina
Looks good Christina. I've wondered how you were doing.
The bear in my yard eats blackberries and turns over trash cans, yours draws house plans.... life's not fair.
Hi John,
Very funny. My builder's name is Bear...he may eat all the blackberries and turn over trashcans too.
I have had the septic tank for the gallery pumped out this week and there are roots in it that he's coming back to fix today...yucky job!
I suspect that in the next few weeks, I'll have the to-do list down to "BUILD THE HOUSE NOW".
I will get the cost estimate from Bear sometime this week. scary.
Hope you're doing well. Be careful on that bike.
Christina
I wonder if the elevation might look better with a lower pitch on the porch? Also you could try a taller, narrower pair of windows at the gable end upper bedroom and then lower rectangular windows on each side. Just some possibilities.
Hi John,
Thanks for the input. the slope on the porch roof is probably not drawn in proportion due to the roof height. I'm going to have 10 foot wall in the downstairs for very high ceilings. The posts on the porch will have to be very high as well. The pitch on the porch roof is planning to be a 6/12 while the roof on the 20 X 36 part of the house as well as the 14 X 16' bedroom on the side is your design with 12 / 12 pitch on the gable end. It does look odd in the drawing. I want a well shaded porch with no loss of sight view out of the windows from the inside.
The roof line will extend to 18" for extra protection for the rain as well.
The little quarter round windows are one of my favorite parts to the front design. I do not have the window dimensions yet, so those are fictional sizes so far.
The elevated foundation will raise the entire house/porch 18" off of the ground as well. The poured wall foundation will be back filled with dirt and then a slab will be poured to be the floor in the house and the porches.
I am not using passive solar placement of windows in the house, because I did that once, years ago with a house I designed and had to wear a hat and sunglasses in the house all winter or have a headache from the glare. I want to peak out from shade.
Christina
Quotehaven't pulled it in several years.
FYI. When tires reach five to seven years of age (from date of manufacture) they should be replaced even if they still have the new tire little nubs on the tread surface. I believe Ford and Chrysler now recommend replacement at six years. That is, replace them when/if you go to use it again; no sense buying new ones and then letting them sit there again. Replacement is especially recommended for tires that sit parked like your trailer (& my RV). It's also more important the higher the mean temperature. (I understand that like NM where you are in CA the temperatures can be pretty mean too). Protecting the tires with sun covers can help a little with sidewall checking but they do not really prolong life enough. It's really time and non-use that is the big tire killer. Well, that and insufficient air.
The Tire Identification Number (TIN) contains a string of 10 or 11 alpha-numeric characters, of which the last three or four provide the week and year of manufacture. The TIN is molded on one side of the tire sidewall. For example, a 10 character TIN with "029" in the last three positions means the tire was made in the second week of 1999 (or 1989). After 2000 an additional digit was added. So, for example, a TIN with 11 characters ending in "0202" indicates the tire was made in the second week of 2002.So if you have a ten digit number that should mean an automatic replacement is in order.
Christina:
Sounds good.
Passive solar and how much glass is very climate specific. Your tall porch idea will go a long way towards opening up the view while blocking the high summer light.
SunKit (http://www.jshow.com/sunkit/index.html)strategy.
Hey Don, thanks for the numbers and lots of good information I didn't know. :)
Mountain Don. My numbers man. ;D
Numbers are vewy useful. :)
We've finally broken ground. I know this forum is for owner/builders and I'm having most of mine "built" by a builder....but I'm still very involved.
I have been getting some real bargains on craigslist.com for items I want in the house when it is a house. I bought solid wood kitchen cabinets for $200.00, and a really incredible fisher woodstove for $250.00, now I'm negotiating for a claw foot bathtub, and looking for 2 pedestal sinks.
The site wound up being a lot less level than all of us thought, so the elevated slab is not being done in a monolithic pour as we had first planned. Yesterday, footings were poured for block walls to be built on, and then it will be back filled after the walls have cured for a week, and then the slab will be poured on top of all of that. It got 47" high on one side and is 12" high on the other.
The picture is of the footings for the porch wall as well as the supporting wall for the house.
Christina
(https://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g166/jraabe/foundation_2_-2.jpg)
No problem, Christina. You still qualify if you have any interest in this forum, and we don't even limit it to John's plans. If you can learn, teach , ask questions or share experiences this is for you.
Especially since you are building from John's plans though it will be of interest to others. :)
Elevation changes can really be deceptive until you throw a level on it to see where it sits.
Congratulations. I bet if feels good to see actual construction going on. It looks like they poured the concrete directly in the excavated trench??
That's exactly what they did. There is rebar in there spaced up from the ground and pretty exact measurements made all over the place, but they did pour without any walls put in to hold it. The foundation inspector checked it off before they did the pour. That's what counts.
Today, they are putting up the block walls on top of the footings where they are necessary.
Christina
Welcome aboard. It is totally appropriate to have stories from involved owner-builders working with local contractors and craftspeople.
That's the only way I would have gotten my house done! ;)
More progress photos. We had the block walls put up. They are the outside perimeter of the L shaped porch across the front and down one side and the 20 X 36 foot outline of the main house, then there is a 14 X 16 foot part off to the other side that will be a bedroom.
Christina
(https://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g166/jraabe/foundation_wall_2-1.jpg)
Thanks for the progress photo, Christina. Always nice to see different ways to do things. :)
A bit of progress today. We had rain for 3 days this week, and delayed work. Glad for the rain around here so no complaints about it. Just glad to have the foundation wizard working on getting it a bit closer to pouring the slab.
The image is of him back filling the foundation walls. The L shaped porch is filled, and he's working on the 20 X 36 house floor with the bobcat. It took all of our dirt, then 5 more loads from a small dump truck and two tandem truck loads of gravel for the top layer.
Tomorrow, the plumber comes to stub out the plumbing. Then the grid work goes over the gravel.
Christina
Progress looks good, Christina. I forgot what state you were in. Weather looks decent right now. :)
Great to see your progress! I bet you are really excited :)
So far this week, the plumbers have been here to stub out the plumbing lines, and the electrician has put a pipe under where the porch will be to bring the power into the house from the ground.
We will have to go through 2 inspections and the termite treatment before they pour the slab. Hoping for Friday or Saturday of this week.
Christina
Looks good, Christina.
WE got through our inspections for the foundation and had the massive pour done yesterday (Saturday).
This is the finished floor for the entire first floor of the house and the L shaped porch, so it represents a lot done.
Christina
Looks good, Christina. Now on to the wood. :)
Thanks Glen, the framing crew comes on Monday to set up their work trailer, and pull electricity from our other building to it.
I imagine that by next weekend, we'll have some sticks in a house-like form.
Christina
Another productive day with the temperatures dropping into the 20's tonight.
The framing crew got most of the ground floor done, and after a few quick misinterpreted plan changes, I'm really happy with it.
Christina
Here's a photo from the other side with the ground floor bedroom off from the main floor plan.
I still lurk on most of the other threads, because I don't have the knowledge to contribute, but I really admire what everyone building is doing with their houses.
This is the progress we've seen by the professional framing crew this week.
Hope you enjoy seeing it.
Christina
They seem to be moving really fast :) I bet you are thrilled! I like your picket fence in front, too :)
Thanks Sassy,
I am thrilled. They started framing on Tuesday morning, and will put the porch roofs on tomorrow. One person who drove up today asked if we were building a church, because of the tall roof line. The porch roofs will make it look like a house again.
I thought I was building a small house, but it sure looks big now.
Christina
Looks like you chose a good crew, Christina.
Wow, Christina... it is looking great. I'm amazed at how fast it is coming along. I like the way you tweaked the design, and FWIW I like the little quarter-round windows, too... sometimes it is worth paying a little more to get the look you really want. Love the big porches which are so nice in a hot climate. Can't wait to see the next round of pictures. How many guys are on that building crew?
We are now 5 full working days into the framing. It is hard to believe that one week ago, there was only a slab there. I am well aware of how it will slow down shortly, but meanwhile, I am having so much fun with it.
There are 5 pretty big guys and one little guy working on the framing. They really have a system down that works quickly and with incredibly tight joints. Thanks for the comments. I like my quarter rounds too.
Christina
(https://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g166/jraabe/IMG_0352.jpg)
Looks great - I like the dormer.
The house is going to be so nice - lots of room, the big dormer in th upstairs, the big porches - great planning! So exciting to see the progress move along like this!
We love the look of this. Please continue to post lots of pictures of the outside and inside progress?
I loaded the photos of building so far onto a snapfish.com account.
I'm hoping this will enable showing more details without cluttering up the forum too much.
Please let me know if the link doesn't work.
I don't know if you have to have a membership to see them, but it's free it you do.
Christina
http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=180749658/a=85820999_85820999/t_=85820999
Porch roof rafters are going on. Now the design is pulling together. We actually had much needed rain last night and the slop of the porches drained just like they were supposed to. Not a wet spot in sight this morning even without a roof yet.
Christina
(https://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g166/jraabe/IMG_0361.jpg)
NICE!!! 8-) :) love it!
Looking good. Awsome job.
Scott
Wow, that's looking great.
Not much finished this last week with much needed rain and the holiday.
I do have a question about mini split systems to heat and cool without ducts. Does anyone have any experience with these units? I'm considering putting one upstairs, but was surprised at the $1200.00 price tag. I don't really need the heater as much as the air conditioner part to cool the upstairs and make it a good place to sleep in the summer. Since I'm in the south, it do get hot!
Some of the siding has been put on and some of the doors installed. I hope to take more pictures tomorrow after the tin roof goes on.
Thanks for any input about the split system.
Christina
I posted a few more photos of today's progress on the snapfish.com pages.
http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=180749658/a=85820999_85820999/t_=85820999
The edging on the tin roof is in place, and they will start putting tin up tomorrow.
Also, the cypress siding is going on the side of the bedroom and the back. We alternated from board and baton to lap siding around the house, and then will put shingles on the front gable and the shed roof. The cypress looks terrific.
I'm carving the pieces that will fix over the doors, and we will install a carved piece across the top of the porch too. Those details should be in place later this week.
Christina
Looks tremendous, Christina! I like the way you are doing a combination of board & batten, shiplap & the shingles will really add a nice touch - ya got good design, gal! [cool]
Very nice project and thanks for the good photos!
I uploaded some of your earlier images to PhotoBucket and then pasted the URL in between the image brackets (2nd from left on bottom row of buttons) so they are easier to view.
John
I love this house, Thanks for posting the pictures.
I'm in North East Alabama, where in N. Ga.? Are y'all allowing a drive by look?
HI Williet,
I don't mind if you come look. We are a pretty long way from Alabama. The house is right behind my business that is open to the public 6 days a week from 10:00 am to 5:00 pm, with a sculpture garden between the two buildings.
Folks see it all the time.
The business has a directions page at:
http://www.funkychickenartproject.com/dir.htm
We are 4 miles from Amicalola Falls State Park.
Christina
Hi,
Thanks...the next time we drive The Chieftains Trail we might just look you up. The ride covers several cities in N.E. Ga. and comes close. That part of Ga. is beautiful!
We are in Jackson Co...and go to Gadsden in Etowah Co. by way of Ft. Payne, DeKalb Co. often...so it's really not all that far. hour and a half or so.....
You mentioned several "site" changes to the house after you started....what were they?
WillieT,
You're welcome anytime. You may even enjoy the gallery.
The site changes involved a wall that was put up around the stairs that were not planned. The plans we drew up were misinterpreted by the framing crew at first, and after we went over them, all has gone smoothly except having to move two windows further apart, and lower some others after they were framed.
Christina
Very, very, very nice Christina! I like it and I can see why you are pleased.
The house is great. Siding looks just right. Thanks for the pictures....
I just posted new pictures to my snapfish.com account (link in another message)...
The siding is almost finished.
Christina
I sent you am messagein your mail.
Just looked at the newest pix, Christina - your place is so cute! :) Really making some progress 8)
Christina
I think your place is just about perfect. Love the pourches, addition, the 3 types of siding and the little room over the addition in particular.
That little piece of trim on edge at the corners and widows is that your idea or just how they do it down your way for the siding? Love your gardens to.
Mike
Hi Sassy and Mike,
Thanks for the comments. It is turning out to be even better than I thought it would so far.
We had another "site change" yesterday. I decided that I want the kitchen more open, and the closet that I had them put in just blocks it off too much. I want to extend the counter top over a cabinet there, so they are taking the water heater closet out. The water heater will now go upstairs in what we are calling the Hobbit room above the bedroom. I'm pleased with this new development. Sometimes you just have to change things after you put them there to look at. I'll use the wood, so there won't be any waste.
Also, the gable in the front is being shingled today, which means they got my last 4 windows in place (I spent several days pre-painting them) and my hand-carved and painted trim went up. It won't show up in the pictures yet, because the walk board is in the way. They have agreed to leave the walk board for me to seal the cypress siding without having to hang from the roof by my toes.
I am really happy with the upstairs now. The flooring is tongue and groove pine that is exposed from under neith. They are putting the wall up for the bath and closet today too that is up there. The claw foot bath tub that I bought off of craigslist.com is now ready. I sanded, primed, and put two coats of rustoleum green paint on it and then silver leafed the claw feet. It will look very comfortable up there.
This is a full time job for me.
Oh, thanks about the gardens. The red fence will have to be repaired, but will stay there. The house is behind my business, and the fence will help keep the customers out. I hope.
Christina
Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful!! I have been watching your amazing progress. Your pictures upstairs really gave me a visual of how much room there is. We are in the pre-planning stage of the 1 and 1/2 plan (20 by 40) with a full upstairs like yours, but I need to know the square feet of the upstairs. Can anyone tell me the "rules" of calculating the square feet with the sloped ceiling?
Thanks
Look here and search "habitable area" on this site.
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=3257.20
Howdy,
I've posted more pictures in my snapfish.com account again, and this week, the porch railings are finished, and some exterior details are done.
http://www2.snapfish.com/share/p=244101197321181693/l=333239845/g=85820999/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB
Also, I've incorporated a peep hole or maybe a nook, in the stairwell wall to fan the hot air through the wall from the wood stove, where we put the leftover tongue and groove flooring, . I wish I could afford to put wooden walls throughout the entire house, but my budget won't include it. Except for a few touches, the walls will be sheet rock.
The porches are now awesome! The railings completed them very nicely.
I am so ready to live in a house again, but I still have a long way to go.
I have to build all of the lower kitchen cabinets, the built in book shelves (better than last time), box beds, and lot of shelves in the bathrooms and closets myself. I am a carver, not a woodworker, but I'm up for the challenge.
Christina
Wow, looks great.
Is that beveled cedar on the bottom? Is it already stained or were you going to stain it once it was up?
Once again....looks great!! [cool]
HI John,
I'm not sure where you mean about the cedar in your question.
"Is that beveled cedar on the bottom? Is it already stained or were you going to stain it once it was up?"
The pickets on the porch are cedar. The siding is all cypress, even the shingles. I don't know where "on the bottom" is...
Christina
ooops...sorry. I meant the siding that you used on the cabin. Now that I think about it, it did go all the way to the top (long day!!) d*. It is the long, horizontally run siding. Just wondering what wood it was and if it was stained or will be stained or just left natural!!
I meant the siding that you used on the cabin.
It is all cypress head to toe....:) When we got all of the price quotes, it cost us about $450.00 more to do cypress than pine, and less than cedar. Another advantage is the thickness is greater than the cedar, and it is low maintenance. We have a bunch of the shakes left over and might use them when we build a tower near the house.
We will be sealing it with an oil based clear sealer of an undetermined brand in the near future. Looking into candidates very soon.
I feel like a proud mom of this house.
Even the guys working on it really like it a lot. It is very unconventional compared to what they usually build.
I give them a great deal of credit for the fine craftsmanship of their work.
Christina
All I can say is "I love it" Beautiful wood work & one of my favorite colors :) That porch will be absolutely wonderful to sit out on.
Thanks Sassy,
The framing crew packed up and left this morning, and I'm kind of sad to see them go. They were great guys, and a lot of fun. I baked a pound cake for them as an additional thank you for doing such wonderful work.
There is of course, so much left to do, but we're seeing so much rapid progress right now it's really exciting.
Lots of customized detailing will be inside as well.
Christina
Christina, it is absolutely beautiful. Love it. What is the total interior square footage going to be? Love it love it love it.
Hi and thanks Homegrown,
The downstairs and upstairs measure 20 X 36 feet so that's 1440 square feet, and then the bedroom add on measures 14 X 16 feet and that is 224 so total is 1664 square feet. I'm not including the little attic room over the bedroom as we're not going to finish that for use, only for storage.
This is not just a weekend retreat for us, it is our home and hopefully for quite awhile. I have 2 kids of my own who are grown and one who I took in, and of course the extra extended family that comes along with them. The entire upstairs will be devoted to guest acommodations for them with box beds built in and one big bathroom with the claw foot tub in it. It will be more like a hostel than private.
It is actually a much bigger house than we started off designing. Our main/ground floor living space totals 944 square feet, and that's what we'll really be living in.
Thanks again for looking.
Christina
This is what I do when I'm not building a house.
Happy Holidays however you celebrate the season.
Christina
(https://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc122/ThorkatlaM/WoodspiritforMary.jpg)
Building inspector nightmare going on....
I was hoping to get "passed" on the framing, plumbing, gas lines, all roughed in yesterday. The inspectors were back there for quite awhile, so I figured I would go distract them and talk about how pretty the house was so they might quit nitpicking over details like I feared them might be doing.
Well, I got back there, and the two inspectors had worked themselves up into a frenzie finding "serious" problems with my house.
First, the smaller of the two really BIG things is that they want all of the gas lines run with hard pipe instead of that stuff with the yellow rubber stuff around it....ok, that they explained well enough. The 3 inch mandatory clearance cannot be achieved in a 2X4 construction...."not installed correctly".
Second, and this is the BIGGIE. They want the entire roof removed and tar paper laid down under it between the rafters and the tin. Now, that is just weird. They don't want decking, just the tar paper.
They say it needs a vapor barier. Now, I stayed calm and asked them for the documentation of the code that applies so I can show it to my builder, and he can use it to get the roofer to correct the problem....
They produced a paper for everything but metal roofing, and it all refered to pitches of greater than 2 units to 12 units, up to 4 units to 12 units. The pitch on my roof is 12 units to 12 units. I think this might be my saving grace, but they insisted they would get the papers proving their correct assessment.
So, has anyone experienced this?
Now, remember, I am in the south, so the insulation factors are not the same here.
I'm also hoping that we can put baffles underneith the tin, and then perhaps use insulation under it that will become a moisture barrier...like that blown in gluey type insulation.
I can get away with this if I get the manufacturer's specs and an engineer to sign off on the was we have done it. The roofer says it is done correctly now.
Any help out there?
Christina
I would get the info on the installation from the roofer and or get your engineer to sign it as correct. That should supersede the bozos.
I would quit playing with the bozos in the field - get pretty ticked off and go to the head of the building department and complain about them.
How successful you will be depends on the quality of the higher ups, but it often works around here to a point. No guarantees.
The roofer should be talking to the inspector also. If you hired the roofer to install the roof and they didn't do it right....... that is thier fault. You want it done right no matter what because it will be worse in the long run if there is a moisture problem. Same goes for the gas....... that's a safety issue IMHO.
That is a good idea also.
Christina the house looks great,i know Building inspectors can be a pain in the backside,they know they have builders over a barrel and most use the power,it make them feel like a god >:(.
QuoteI would quit playing with the bozos in the field - get pretty ticked off and go to the head of the building department and complain about them.
Glen
Be careful i'm in middle Georgia, (Twiggs county) and the inspector is the head of the buliding department,you may need to go to planning and zoning.
Robert
I'm afraid the inspectors are playing GOD. Their demeanor was like watching an old married couple going off on something they both had a distaste for while they were incredibly constipated. I nodded a lot and asked very clear, not-to-be-misinterpreted-as-cocky questions while they just kept going on and on about how they were saving me for my own good.
They did think the house was pretty, by the way..
My builder is a gem, and I fully expect him to be able to work this out one way or the other. That's what his 20% is for and I do trust him.
What I do need to find is the international code (that's what they said this county uses) for metal roof installation. I don't have the book, my builder does, and I would like to see how it reads.. I want to know if pitch has been misinterpreted by these inspectors to include all pitches instead of under 4 / 12.
My husband is Italian, and it's times like this that we're glad I'm the straw boss. He would be handling this a bit differently. I'm thinking this will work it's way out eventually, but probably be a setback both time wise and financially....I just hope not too much of either.
Any body out there have a copy of the code book?
Thanks,
Christina
Get your documentation together and get an attorney to write a letter to the inspector and his boss, whoever that is in your area.
The letter head alone will, in most cases, subdue the "god" complex of these folks. It's a shame some people in "government" have just gotta be jerks....BUT that seems to be the way it is.
It'sa really great house...good luck with the red tape.
If by code book you mean the IRC 2003 (International Residential Code 2003), then go here and follow the link near the top
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=2590.0
I was too curious to let this go, and besides I'd finished cleaning up some more of the office so I had a further look at the IRC 2003. See Chapter 9, specific metal panel roof is section R905.10 Nothing right there about underlayment (building felt, synthetics, etc. Remember this is from the IRC 2003. There could be differences in other years.
The interesting thing is that reading about the requirements for other roofing, like asphalt shingles, slate shingles, metal shingles, wood shingles, etc. there is a listed requirement for underlayment, in two different slope categories, from 2 to 4 in 12 [two layers underlayment] and 4 in 12 and greater [one layer]. All these other roofing types require an underlayment. BUT, in that section on metal roof panels there is no mention of underlayment being required at all. :o
The only things mentioned are for slopes; roofs with nonsoldered joints, and unsealed laps shall be limited to slopes of 3 to 12 or greater, roofs using sealed laps can be used with slope as low as 1/2 in 12. And of course the material must meet certain ASTM standards and be installed with approved fasteners in the manner prescribed by the panel manufacturer. Oh the only other requirement mentioned is that the roof panels be installed over solid or spaced sheathing OR spaced supports if the panels are designed for that method.
So to me at least, it would seem those inspectors are loosely acquainted with the code requirements and are misapplying what they think they know. d* Unless they have a different code book? ??? ???
Or I could be missing something. Has happened before.
On this roof issue , is the metal laid right on the rafters ? Or is it on purlins? Or laid on roof sheathing??
IMO in all but true barn / outbuilding , or better yet buildings with out heat in them , you NEED the felt or a ice and water shield barrier between the under side of the metal and ANY wood .
Sure a pole barn , outhouse , covered porch you could go without as there's either no heat source (condensation makers ) or there lots of moving air to stop a dew point from making it rain inside the building.
We ALWAYS lay felt under the metal roofing, the stuff sweats , sun hits the top heating it bottom is cooler either in the attic or ceiling area and a dew point is setup , condensation happens .
I'm not sure how you'd install most metal roofing directly on rafters , purlins I can see that BUT rafters , can't see how you'd do that RIGHT , although I'm sure it CAN be done , just not done right!
As always G/L PEG
In this case , and of course a lot of things are not known about the whole situation , the inspector's May be right and may be saving your behind .
BTW, how is this roof/attic going to be insulated?
Quote from: PEG688 on December 29, 2007, 05:58:24 PM
On this roof issue , is the metal laid right on the rafters ? Or is it on purlins? Or laid on roof sheathing??
The rafters have cross beams of 2 X 4's on top of them, I don't know if they are called purlins or not, and the metal roofing is screwed to them.
The way the roofers and insulation guys were going to do it, is to use that space between the metal roof and the fiberglass batting insulation as a baffle. The moisture on the inside of the tin would naturally run down the tin instead of drip inside, especially at that pitch.
I have gotten another opinion regarding the importance of NOT having the tar paper directly under the metal from a different contractor. He said if you allow it to touch the tin, the condensation and dampness on the felt cannot escape and will rot the roof out from the underside, and drastically shorten the life of the tin.
I do want the roof on correctly of course, but I sure don't want them to insist on something they have misinterpreted that will be a wrong move in the long run. It's very hard to find t he correct answer when so many folks have opinions and "almost" make sense. I have gotten more confused today instead of more clear on the subject.
But, I'm not done yet.
Thanks for the input.
Christina
BTW, how is this roof/attic going to be insulated?
We plan on using fiberglass batting and sheet rock on the ceilings upstairs.
The rafters have so much room up there, we can get R30 in the roof.
Christina
Quote from: CWhite on December 29, 2007, 11:10:17 PM
Quote from: PEG688 on December 29, 2007, 05:58:24 PM
The rafters have cross beams of 2 X 4's on top of them, I don't know if they are called purlins or not, and the metal roofing is screwed to them.
Those would be called purlins and that part now make sense.
The way the roofers and insulation guys were going to do it, is to use that space between the metal roof and the fiberglass batting insulation as a baffle. The moisture on the inside of the tin would naturally run down the tin instead of drip inside, especially at that pitch.
This part relies on the water caused by the dew point AWAYS doing what you want it to do, which would be to cling to the underside of the metal roofing and AWAYS dip b clear off the under side. I'd say that asking way to much of water irregardless of the pitch.
I have gotten another opinion regarding the importance of NOT having the tar paper directly under the metal from a different contractor. He said if you allow it to touch the tin, the condensation and dampness on the felt cannot escape and will rot the roof out from the underside, and drastically shorten the life of the tin.
The dew point is still the under side of the metal the roof sheathing will not get wet IF the felt is laid right , you will still need proper venting in the attic space.
I do want the roof on correctly of course, but I sure don't want them to insist on something they have misinterpreted that will be a wrong move in the long run. It's very hard to find t he correct answer when so many folks have opinions and "almost" make sense. I have gotten more confused today instead of more clear on the subject.
I understand your situation , and I hate to get involved with other people and other contractors in situations like this. Can they take you to other houses similar to yours and show you a attic done the way they are doing it that is say five or ten years old? I have never heard of NOT papering a metal roof on a building intended to be lived in .
But, I'm not done yet.
Thanks for the input.
Christina
Good luck , do more local research , and in this case listen to what the inspectors are saying, maybe even hire a "home inspector" who checks houses in your area for real estate sales.
Peg,
I've not seen a modern house around here that wasn't decked with something. Metal roof or not? It would seem there needs to be something under the roofing, but I believe she said her contractor said it wasn't needed.....I saw in the pictures as they were building it and wondered about the purlins in a "modern" house?
QuoteFirst, the smaller of the two really BIG things is that they want all of the gas lines run with hard pipe instead of that stuff with the yellow rubber stuff around it....ok, that they explained well enough. The 3 inch mandatory clearance cannot be achieved in a 2X4 construction...."not installed correctly".
Are we talking about CSST (Corrigated Stainless Steel Tubing) here? What 3" mandatory clearance are you refering to? I run CSST gas pipe in 2x4 walls all the time. Tell me whats going on here and maybe I can give you an argument.
QuoteI have gotten another opinion regarding the importance of NOT having the tar paper directly under the metal from a different contractor. He said if you allow it to touch the tin, the condensation and dampness on the felt cannot escape and will rot the roof out from the underside, and drastically shorten the life of the tin.
I put a metal roof on my house about 10 years ago and we where told not to put paper under the tin. But we where also told to put foam board under the tin. Which we did between the purlins. No air = no condensation is the idea I think.
Are we talking about CSST (Corrigated Stainless Steel Tubing) here? What 3" mandatory clearance are you refering to? I run CSST gas pipe in 2x4 walls all the time. Tell me whats going on here and maybe I can give you an argument.
The gas pipe that was installed, and the inspectors are insisting be taken out is encased in a yellow rubber like substance with conduit type tubing inside it that must be a little flexible judging from how they put it in the walls. The inspectors say it must have 3 inches of clearance, and I take it to mean from the exterior of the wall so that nails cannot be driven into it. They told me horror stories about how sheetrock nails had been driven into it. Also, they said it cannot be pulled through drilled holes without damaging the casing, and that it under no circumstances can go through the plate from the 1st floor to the second floor.
I put a metal roof on my house about 10 years ago and we where told not to put paper under the tin. But we where also told to put foam board under the tin. Which we did between the purlins. No air = no condensation is the idea I think.
I have a chicken house that we use as an art gallery, so I am very familiar with the foam board insulation used under tin roofing. We even built an 85 foot studio and used the same method to insulate, but it wasn't being inspected when it was built. No leaks there, and the ones in the gallery are because the roof and building are so old and they need repair.
I take it that you are saying your proposed method has been successful without felt under the tin?
Thanks for the input.
Christina
http://www.gastite.com/engspecs.php?pg=plates&idlink=link4 (http://www.gastite.com/engspecs.php?pg=plates&idlink=link4)
If you look at the above link you'll see there are special plates made to protect the pipe where it passes through plates studs etc. These are code approved/required. If the pipe is left loose in the walls it will move out of the way of a nail being driven through sheetrock to say hang a picture or something. There are several brands of CSST on the market but they all are installed in basicly the same manner. If you contact the local rep they will usually go to bat for you against the building department so long as the pipe is installed per manufacture recomendation. If an installer is tearing the jacket while installing that is just bad workmanship IMO. It can be pulled through drilled holes if done correctly.
As for the metal roof. I'm not aware of any problems to date. We installed it based on the manufactures recomendations. YMMV :-\
Another thought about the success of a tin roof put on this way is that there is naturally an airspace under the tin with about 1 1/2 " space for it to breath. That space, being above the insulation, would not be heated, and therefore, would remain very similar to the outside temps. Why would it create any more moisture or condensation that any barn roofed the same way that doesn't leak?
I did not let the framers install the upstairs tongue and groove pine flooring until after the house was dried in so the floor would never have a chance of being rained on. If they expect us to take the roof off, it becomes extremely vulnerable to weather. This has consequences that the inspectors couldn't care less about.
I honestly believe that the inspectors' getting their credentials from an online course on building codes could seriously affect my budget and my time schedule.
My builder has not had time to regroup and explain his next move yet, so I will be sitting on pins and needles until after the holiday.
Christina
Quote from: CWhite on December 30, 2007, 11:07:39 PM
#1: Another thought about the success of a tin roof put on this way is that there is naturally an airspace under the tin with about 1 1/2 " space for it to breath. That space, being above the insulation, would not be heated, and therefore, would remain very similar to the outside temps. Why would it create any more moisture or condensation that any barn roofed the same way that doesn't leak?
#2:I honestly believe that the inspectors' getting their credentials from an online course on building codes could seriously affect my budget and my time schedule.
#3:My builder has not had time to regroup and explain his next move yet, so I will be sitting on pins and needles until after the holiday.
Here's how I see it
#1: a) Yes you have that space BUT ever sunny day that space will be cool , the sun will rise and that metal on one side will get hot , the air space will not get as hot as fast. Potential dew point.
b) Sun will set that air space will be very hot the metal will cool VERY fast , the air space will cool slowly . Potential dew point .
#2: So your local inspectors are new / just learning ?
Now don't get me wrong I , like most pro builders, pretty much have a vast contempt for pretty much ALL inspectors :-[ Ya I'll admit it, I get paid to build , and I
dislike ALL most all the inspectors . I shouldn't say dislike , I'll stick with contempt though ;D
But IF your inspectors called you on this , or your builder , I really think the inspectors would have seen this before , metal roofs , are they that uncommon in your area? ???
This is some what basic building practice up here in the PNW , felt and / or ice and water shield under just about every type of roofing. Pole barns are the only type that does NOT get felt the metal is screwed to the purlins , GENERALLY a roll type insulation is put down first and the metal traps that between the purlins and the metal.
Pole barns, here, tend to sweat , the roofs , generally in a barn or shop this isn't a big deal . But in trapped attic space it would / will be.
I just can see this being "new ground" for your inspectors.
#3: I hope he can drive you to a buildings with very similar situations , that are 5 or more years old and that you can get a good look at the underside of those roofs.
BTW I went to school with a Carmella White , no chance it's you is there?
G/L keep us posted , we all may learn something new here, lets hope anyway :)
Hi and thanks for your thoughts on these set backs.
Scott, I have looked at that link and will show it to my builder.
Pegg, I appreciate your input very much. There is no telling how this will turn out at this point, but I'll keep you posted.
Mt.Don, it looks like you found the same sheet of codes that they tried to use to convince me of their correct assessment, but I could not see how it applied to my house.
Bottom line, I have a tense week ahead of me.
Oh, and my name is Christina, not Carmella...I have spent my whole life in Georgia.
C
""Second, and this is the BIGGIE. They want the entire roof removed and tar paper laid down under it between the rafters and the tin. Now, that is just weird. They don't want decking, just the tar paper.
They say it needs a vapor barier. Now, I stayed calm and asked them for the documentation of the code that applies so I can show it to my builder, and he can use it to get the roofer to correct the problem....
They produced a paper for everything but metal roofing, and it all refered to pitches of greater than 2 units to 12 units, up to 4 units to 12 units. The pitch on my roof is 12 units to 12 units. I think this might be my saving grace, but they insisted they would get the papers proving their correct assessment.
So, has anyone experienced this?
Now, remember, I am in the south, so the insulation factors are not the same here.
I'm also hoping that we can put baffles underneith the tin, and then perhaps use insulation under it that will become a moisture barrier...like that blown in gluey type insulation.""
Yes I have and beleive me they are right you need a vapor barrier. I have lived with, built, and been proved wrong with steel buildings. One of the first builbings I had built for me was a steel one. Now I got the inside roof insulated with the role type plactic coverd thin stuff but not the outside over hang I could park under. No way was I going to pay for insulation on a area outside of the building even tho they said I needed to. That roof dripped on my cars for years and when it was real cold it would drip water and it would make ice all over my vehicals form. If there is a difference of tempiture on the top and bottom it will form condinsation and drip. Just like on a glass of cold water it will bead up. Metal roofs are great for this but easy to correct to. My outside barn with open walls did not drip ever and all I did is put 1/8" foil coverd cardboard on the perlins to stop the wind/air from forming the water. I have never had a problem when I put the steel over plywood with water forming but I allways put felt down also. It was allways bare steel that would drip when temps and humidites were correct. Just a litte tiny R-Factor is all you need to stop it and it needs to be against the steel underside. Mark
Christina,
Would you share your floorplan with us... (other then what you posted at the start) ?
Good info Mark. Where are you located?
Quote from: williet on December 31, 2007, 04:22:51 PM
Good info Mark. Where are you located?
I am located in North Eastern Washington (Okanogan) now. The one barn and shop I was talking about was in Western Washington. Even dry areas give you problems with steel along with the wetter Western Side. Mark H.
Update on my building inspector nightmare.
I had a guy come out this morning to quote a price for spraying blow-in insulation in the roof only this morning. His price is $2.00/sq ft, which comes in at approximately $2400.00. That doesn't include the walls of course, but my estimate for fiberglass batting for the entire house was only $1700.00. I can always pull some of that back from the budget by getting back there and installing the fiberglass myself.
Good side, is that he can document with manufacturer's specs on installation that the material is meant to be blown in directly touching the metal roof without baffles or an airspace, and will completely avoid any condensation from forming. That budget gets blown all to pieces.
Next, the gas line guys came back and took a look at what didn't pass in their part. They will be gathering papers to verify their methods to appease the building inspectors as well, but may have to come add some armoured plate parts for more protection through studs. They do have plates over every stud the pipe passes through, but they cannot figure out why the inspector wants a 3" clearance or hard pipe in every wall. Even with 2X6 studs, there would not be 3" clearance. I asked them to provide the hard copy book of the course they took when learning how to install that type of pipe if they can find it. I want to OVER DOCUMENT in order to get at least some of the work to pass. The gas guys were very confident that they had put it in correctly.
My builder was also present and he will see to it that all crews concerned see these projects through to the inspecting getting the permits. He's a lot bigger than me, and gets along with them all really well.
I'll let you know if we have some more progress.
Christina
Great Christina, I was hoping it could be worked out.
In the area I just moved from...Decatur,Al. and the county around it, Morgan county, There were several contractors who had the building inspectors sewed up. "IF" someone decided to DIY, and the inspectors found out, there would be hours and hours of needless JUNK to get them off your back....They would always "suggest"...(under the table)...someone who could do the work "right", usually a cousin or brother-in-law). When I did residential repair work, this made me so angry that I vowed to never do anything that had to be inspected again.
I also lived in an "Historical District"..so that group of old ladies had their noses in everything we did as well. Shape of fence boards...color inside closets...type of flowers to plant...ect....It wouldn't have been so bad, but I was there before it became an historic district....
With "home rule", they call it that here, ( every house in the county being under the direction of a building committee) ...I guess we'll all be under the thumb of the burecratic local government soon enough.
Another update, for those interested in learning from my experience.
My builder has met with the building inspectors this afternoon, and they have agreed to "allow" spray in insulation the way we are going to do it. ...that is without baffles and directly onto the metal roof.
It will cost me a fortune that was in no way projected in my budget, but it gets the work progressing again.
The gas lines, they wouldn't give an inch on, and they really didn't communicate their opposition to the methods used clearly enough for the gas line guy to understand, so he said he will come back on Monday and change out the yellow coated gas lines for the hard steel lines completely. The inspector said they will come back as soon as it is all changed out and give us the go ahead to continue. My builder has really stood behind the gas line guy, and I now know why. He's coming back and doing the entire job at no extra cost to me.
So, Yeah! That's a quiet little yeah, so I won't attract any attention and we can get this done.
Christina
Don't know if I read close enough, Christina, but is that Icynene, or some other blow in insulation?
We used to put 2" UL-vinyl - white vinyl on 2" fiberglass on steel buildings with steel purlins to stop condensation problems -sandwiched -but just info and doesn't apply here.
The insulation that will be sprayed into the roof/ceiling upstairs is a brand called Durafill. It is described as open-cell or polyurethane spray foam insulation.
I just hope it doesn't give me something fatal. It should keep the place dry and warm anyway.
It sure costs a lot.
Christina
Found a small PDF on it - thanks, Christina.
http://grizzlysprayfoaminsulation.com/pdfs/durafill.pdf
So Christina,
How's it going with the house? Are you going to post pics of the insulation process?
HI Willie,
The gas line folks are here this morning replacing all of the pipes with hard pipe.
The insulation can't go in until after the inspectors come back again. I'll keep you posted.
At least the weather warmed up around here.
Christina
The inspectors were here 2 days ago, but wouldn't pass the house again due to no pressure on the new gas lines...turns out there were 2 leaks at the new joints.., and they found a part of the water pipes they weren't happy with and made us brace them so they won't knock around in the wall when the water is on. That was fixed yesterday and the gas line guy was here this morning.
We passed the inspection today. We will be on to the next step next week. YEAH!
Insulation in the roof, and walls is next. Then, the sheetrock.
Meanwhile, I have finished 2 of the carvings that will go over the entry doors. One more to go.
Christina
Glad to hear that you got the go ahead. I guess I am fortunate as I have no inspections other than the septic in my area. Although those that have lend a hand from now and then say I am the worst as far as perfectionist than an inspector would be. I am my worst nightmare when it comes to getting things right. Looks like it will be housekeeping in the spring for you. :)
Wonderful! :)
So they will allow the spray insulation with on venting?
The insulation will be sprayed in directly against the metal roof. According to the specs, it will not allow any condensation, because there will be no air space. The airspace will be under the insulation, and will not be subject to temperature differences. It makes sense. I just hope it works.
Venting it would create the same problem that the batting would cause by letting that air space condensate moisture. The foam is also a moisture barrier.
I'm beginning to wonder how they will be able to install it in temperatures that are predicted to be cold and wet that day. I guess I'll find out.
Thanks from sharing my enthusiasm, Sassy. I'm excited too.
Redoverfarm, I wish I didn't have building codes here, but it's gotten pretty controlled up here north of Atlanta since they made the airport an international one. Folks from all over the world live around here now.
Christina
Yes I knew it SHOULD be done that way , I was just wondering IF the inspectors would agree. We had to educate our here a while back about that type insulation.
Good deal , press on :)
So...IF something should happen and the metal roof need to be replaced...say a high wind or tornado close by....what would be involved in replacing the roofing?
Not being negative, but I was just wondering about "long term" maintenance. I see the edges of metal roofs around here bent up sometimes after high winds. Will the several inches of sprayed in insulation help hold down the metal???????
There would be some of that I'm sure. Even with a tensile strength of only 5 lbs per inch which could be possible I think, it would have about 360 lbs hold down strength at each purlin (counting both edges of the purlin) appx per 3 foot sheet -- rough guess. Unsupported or unfastened overhangs could be more of a problem.
I assume changing a sheet would destroy that portion of the foam below. Something that will have to be dealt with if the need ever arises.
Sure IT MIGHT happen , and yes the foam would help some with holding the metal in place.
If it gets ripped off , MTL water will get in and sheet rock would get ruined etc . So like Glenn said you deal with it at that time.
We here in the PNW put in so much earthquake , hold down ( ever hear of gravity ::) , type stuff IF we have a large quake will the places with it be "better off" maybe , will they be inhabitable , MAYBE, they might just be less ruined. Maybe it will save one life as a total collapse "might" be averted. Lots of $$ for what if , it might happen , etc , IMO.
Yes there's more to all the code stuff then that most due to poor workmanship by what really are unskilled "professionals " in the building trades
I seem remember cars in the late 70's /early 80's that had to have the motor jacked up to change oli and /or spark plugs....It just seems the later maintenance of something needs to be thought out in the initial design....Still looking at options for myself and it looked like decking "might" cost more on the front end, but allow easier repair on the back end....
Thinking out loud ???
If you're going to deck it and put felt on it, why put a metal roof on? Why not just go the less expensive route and do shingles?
Christina
Less expensive, but metal and metal over sheathing offers...
Metal over anything or nothing...
... longer life
... less weight
... quicker install
... best fire resistance
Metal over sheathing...
... better ability to resist deformation from walking on, impacts, etc.
... helps to reduce rain noise. still noisy tho; Icynene does same
...
Those are really good points MTDon.
I posted new pictures of small details to the snapfish.com account if anyone wants to see.
http://www2.snapfish.com/share/p=244101197321181693/l=333239845/g=85820999/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB
I got 2 carvings put in place this weekend over the doors, and started the paint so I could see if I wanted to change the color..I think not.
I also got the wall finished in the staircase, and the blocking boards are installed in the roof in preparation for the insulation to be sprayed in. The framing crew came back today and did that.
Christina
looks really nice....
Christina looking real good. Good progress as well. Wish mine went up as fast as your did. I like the carvings.
You're REALLY good with carving tools. The house looks GREAT!
My husband wants to know when we can move it. He loves the house, too... it is really a work of art.
Hi WillieT, carving is what I do, so I had to incorporate it into this house too. There will be many carved details.
Thanks for noticing. I'm hoping it will be an inspiration for commissions from folks visiting my gallery, and seeing the house.
Homegrown, thanks, but this one's mine! I am so ready to move in. That's probably the worst part about building codes. We CANNOT move in until we get the occupancy certificate.
I found out that the cost of putting the electrical connection from the telephone pole will be one of those unpredicted costs that I can do absolutely nothing about. They charge $7.00 per foot to bury the cable to within 200 feet of the house. From there, we hire another contractor to ditch it the rest of the way and install the conduit to provide underground service. Over budget is not the right description, but my "guestimate" was just a number I pulled out of the sky.
On a better note, the fiberglass insulation was put in today, and we're on schedule for the spray in stuff tomorrow.
Christina
Christina the underground power will be more of an asset even if the cost is a little more. I had underground service to my house for 450 ft from the overhead lines. That was fairly cheap compared to the 2500 feet of construction that I had to foot just getting it close to the house.
There is less chance of trees falling on the lines, icing up, shorts and fire hazzard. I was thinking "Kids flying kites" when I put mine in. But my kids have never flow a kite near the house. Have pasture for that.
Sometimes it just pays to go over budget on some things. The problem that alot of people have is they go over on too many things.
Yes, I agree with you about the benefits of underground service. I just wish I had guessed closer to the actual cost. There is no changing it, so I won't dwell on it at all. I posted the information to share the knowledge I've just today learned for the sake of others knowing possible costs. I don't remember where I came up with the information that made me guess so low. I missed it by about $2000.00. :O
I have had a builder and contracted labor for this house, so saving money has been a challenge compared to the house my x husband and I built from salvaged materials and did all of the work about 25 years ago. I have successfully used craigslist.com to buy quite a few things that I've saved thousands of dollars on. It is a real slap in the face when something as unyielding as the power company eats up so much of my hard earned efforts at saving money.
It is a pretty house though. :), and it gets closer to being done each day.
Christina
I have insulation!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! in the roof.
They came today in a big truck and sprayed it into the roof. It was fun to watch, smelled kind of weird, and went quickly except for the tow truck adventure after the "flat-landers" got their truck extremely stuck and tore up a good bit of my driveway. They didn't leave until 9:22 this evening. I'll call the gas company tomorrow to put the propane tank back where it belongs and relevel it (it got slightly involved), and spend the day shoveling dirt back into the huge ditches rutted out in my driveway.
But, I have Insulation!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
For the curious, I put images on the snapfish.com picture file.
http://www2.snapfish.com/share/p=244101197321181693/l=333239845/g=85820999/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB
Now, the inspectors get to return....
Christina
I grabbed a few images from Christina's Snapfish gallery:
(https://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g166/jraabe/spray-foam.jpg)
Spraying expanding foam into a roof rafter cavity. Note metal roof on 2x4 skip sheathing. This will all be sealed.
(https://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g166/jraabe/spray-foam2.jpg)
Batts in the walls and sealed unvented foam rafter insulation.
(https://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g166/jraabe/spray-foam3.jpg)
The feed tube from the foam truck. (Now you know why this is not a DIY project. :D) Hint... the truck is big and the equipment expensive.
PS to Christina - Nice House!
so there's no air channel at all between the roof and insulation? kind of like the way a strutured insulated panel system works?
Yes - that stops condensation by not allowing room for warm moist air to get against the underside of the cold metal.
It also acts as a nice sound barrier. Rain on a tin roof isn't nearly as romantic when you're trying to sleep under one.
The purlins are 2X4's so there is a substantial amount of that foam in there. The installer explained to me that this is NOT the closed cell type. This foam stays softer to expand and shrink a bit with the metal during temperature changes. It is the correct application of this stuff, and should save fuel bills for folks who live in extreme climates. I don't see this paying for itself anytime soon considering where we live with the mild temperatures, but it will make it more comfortable, and kept us from having to go to worse measures to pass our inspections.
My driveway is a horrible mess this morning, and I have already had the gas company come out and put the propane tank back on the footings after it's altercation with the insulation truck.
I have a lot of shoveling to do.
Thanks for the kind words, John.
Christina
Christina,
If you don't mind ....what's a ball park figure on this stuff....installed. The house is wonderful. I like it more each time I look through the pictures.
Mark
Mark, it cost $2.00 per square foot.
It hurts just to write is down.
Christina
...but now you have a Cadillac, Christina. Hurts a bit now but it will be worth it in the long run. It will save against both heat and cold.
Probably makes the roof system not only quieter but longer lasting as well. Virtually glues the whole thing into one structural system (and a bit of give to the material is a long term bonus to handle the heat/cold expansion cycles). Also, structurally, it is likely to be as stabilizing as sheathing the roof with plywood or OSB, so that was an AVOIDED cost.
Quote from: CWhite on January 24, 2008, 11:50:08 AM
Mark, it cost $2.00 per square foot.
It hurts just to write is down.
Christina
The house is beautiful and ya'll will love it.....don't think of the price right now!
Christina,
IF(and I hope it never happens) there is a leak in the roof....How do you fix it with this spray-in stuff? Has anyone addressed that with you?
Mark, you're really a "glass half empty" kind of guy aren't you? :)
I guess if it leaks someday, I'll deal with it. So far, it hasn't, and it has been through a few stout test storms. Tornadoes happen, fires happen. Insurance might help.
I do have confidence in the materials used, the crews involved, and results. I researched a lot, and learned a lot. I guess, that's all I can do. If it breaks, I'll learn more.
On a happier note, the inspectors came again this morning, and even with the shark music from JAWS playing in my head while they were walking down the drive towards the house, they gave us a thumbs up. We're good to the next step.
Also, I have water lines hooked up, ditches dug for the power up to the power company's committed entrance point, and the hope of sheet rock installation next week.
Plus, the mud is thawing out, so temps are more agreeable to work outdoors.
Christina
Great! I look forward to seeing your continued progress - you will certainly have a nice home - you can tell a lot of planning & love has gone into it :)
I wouldn't worry about "what if" myself. A properly installed metal roof has a very long life. The most liely places for any sources of leaks, as I've been told by the roofer who installed my home's new metal roof is around the roof perforations. He told me he'd call five years after and offer to do a (paid) inspection and re-caulking wherever necessary. Sounds like something I'll do myself as long as I'm able to get up on the roof.
We do have a number of perforations, vents, chimney, skylights. However, the original asphalt shingle roof never experienced any leaks in the 22 years it was up there. I did re-caulk a few of the vents, a few times, as precautionary maintenance though.
Quote from: CWhite on January 25, 2008, 03:06:28 PM
Mark, you're really a "glass half empty" kind of guy aren't you? :)
I guess if it leaks someday, I'll deal with it. So far, it hasn't, and it has been through a few stout test storms. Tornadoes happen, fires happen. Insurance might help.
I do have confidence in the materials used, the crews involved, and results. I researched a lot, and learned a lot. I guess, that's all I can do. If it breaks, I'll learn more.
On a happier note, the inspectors came again this morning, and even with the shark music from JAWS playing in my head while they were walking down the drive towards the house, they gave us a thumbs up. We're good to the next step.
Also, I have water lines hooked up, ditches dug for the power up to the power company's committed entrance point, and the hope of sheet rock installation next week.
Plus, the mud is thawing out, so temps are more agreeable to work outdoors.
Christina
Not at all...My brother and I grew up repairing rent houses that were given to my father by his father. I've done more than my share of house repair work and I just try to think ahead....As I've said before...I love your house and I really hope you have nothing but happy times in it.
Quote from: williet on January 25, 2008, 07:06:57 PM
Quote from: CWhite on January 25, 2008, 03:06:28 PM
Mark, you're really a "glass half empty" kind of guy aren't you? :)
I guess if it leaks someday, I'll deal with it. So far, it hasn't, and it has been through a few stout test storms. Tornadoes happen, fires happen. Insurance might help.
I do have confidence in the materials used, the crews involved, and results. I researched a lot, and learned a lot. I guess, that's all I can do. If it breaks, I'll learn more.
On a happier note, the inspectors came again this morning, and even with the shark music from JAWS playing in my head while they were walking down the drive towards the house, they gave us a thumbs up. We're good to the next step.
Also, I have water lines hooked up, ditches dug for the power up to the power company's committed entrance point, and the hope of sheet rock installation next week.
Plus, the mud is thawing out, so temps are more agreeable to work outdoors.
Christina
Not at all...My brother and I grew up repairing rent houses that were given to my father by his father. I've done more than my share of house repair work and I just try to think ahead....As I've said before...I love your house and I really hope you have nothing but happy times in it.
The best way to find a leak in a roof is to look at it from inside. As many people read these threads, I was questioning as to how one would find the leak with this method of insulation.....I thought you might have ask the folks who do the insulation work......or maybe someone else might know.
I wasn't trying to be negative or wish you bad luck with the roof..... Just trying to learn and plan ahead.
Now, now, Mark,don't go taken my teasing too seriously...., I was just funnin ya.
I appreciate questions on this board as much as everyone else does. The answers are worth seeing.
I do have to just wait to see if leaks appear over a lifetime. I think watching the process of the insulation going in took a lot of the mystery out of it. I am confident it could be fixed if needed.
I spent my youth as slave labor to my father who also had rental property (apparently, it had the effect of being interested in some form of construction later in life), and learned that just about anything can be fixed with hard work.
I suppose that's why I just choose not to worry until it's time.
I love the house already, and hope that the next 8 weeks or so, really show some intense changes so we can move into it. I'm getting real tired of living in a chicken house and a camper. Winter is getting to me too. I want spring.
Maybe you'll get to come see it someday. When do you plan on building yours, and have you gotten close to knowing what you want yet?
Christina
Quote from: williet on January 25, 2008, 10:27:57 AM
Christina,
IF(and I hope it never happens) there is a leak in the roof....How do you fix it with this spray-in stuff? Has anyone addressed that with you?
That could be a problem sorta like fishing in new electrical wires in sprayed foam or blown in insulation in walls It is hard fishing them in regular insulation let alone packed walls or foam. Mark
Quote from: Willy on January 25, 2008, 08:25:25 PM
Quote from: williet on January 25, 2008, 10:27:57 AM
Christina,
IF(and I hope it never happens) there is a leak in the roof....How do you fix it with this spray-in stuff? Has anyone addressed that with you?
That could be a problem sorta like fishing in new electrical wires in sprayed foam or blown in insulation in walls It is hard fishing them in regular insulation let alone packed walls or foam. Mark
In the past when I've worked around the sprayed in stuff, I always liked it...BUT Kinda like doing wiring for a log house, it seems to me that you'd have to give a lot of thought to the where-a-bouts of all your plumbing and electrical. Not so much a problem in this space...but I ran electrical in walls that were then sprayed and it took time to plan and any later changes were a pain. Commercial storage buildings for chemicals.
I really like the stuff.....but...unless you look down the road and leave pleanty of open conduit, I'd not use it in walls.....This looks good in between rafters though. I wonder if it can be used directly on the wood if sprayed under decking???Would there need to be a vapor sheet somewhere other than between the metal roofing and the decking?????
The best log house that I worked on (circa..1985) was insulated with two 2" layers of 5x9 sheets of uthane. These were stacked with staggered seams and taped. They were on top of felt paper that was on top of 5/4 tongue & groove pine decking...exposed as the finished ceiling on the underside. ..on top of the insulation we nailed 1" furring strips in line with the rafters (air space) and then....decked with 5/8 plywood sheathing...all this was nailed in place with gutter spikes (8") driven into the 8"log rafters...then more felt paper and metal roofing.
This roof was pretty thich, but in the winter...the house almost never needed any heat other than a small fire or the clothes dryer running...and in the summer, it was almost always cool. EXPENSIVE...but the best roof I've ever seen.
Roof specs came from the log house manufacturing company. I guess it was OK, because the last time I saw it...a couple of years ago...there were no signs of problems inside or out.
MtDon I am curious about that skylight. A friend who is a builder and I got onto this conversation and he said if you have a metal roof don't put in a skylight. Well another friend was determined he was going to put skylights in his cabin/house. Well he put in six and has two more to go. He has one that he cannot get the leaks stopped. And the others have probably 3 tubes each of chaulking. He had his own idea about how to flash. I didn't interfere as it was his house.
Was there a flashing kit approiate for metal roof as some say they checked with various companies who manufacture skylights and there is none. Hadn't checked myself.
The chimney is pretty easy and the boots for the vents had progressed since the old style for shingles and I wouldn't worry too much about them. As for the boots I am undecided about that for my vent line. I might just vent through the last course of logs and 90 it up some from the eve to prevent gas from getting sucked back down. Will have to wait and see what my thinking is as I get closer to that bridge.
The skylight has to be a curb mount type. There are special flashing materials available from some roofing manufacturers. I'm not sure how they are used. The roofing contractor told me they were available. But Velux, the skylight and roof window people have this type availability for their products. I probably mis-spoke when I used the word caulk.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/oddsnends2/edmflashing7.jpg)
We put tons of fiberglass skylights in steel buildings and they never leaked, but they were not clear. They were special skylights that matched the rib pattern of the building. Of 1800 or so I did, I don't ever recall one of that type leaking. Probably not useful for a house though.
My dad'sstorage building has two like you're talking about, Glenn....but they're clear. Lotsa light and no leaks. I can't see why they couldn't be used in a house?
There may be fiberglass sheets that can be fit into the pattern of a metal roof and will not protrude above the roof plane. These can work in a garage, workshop or other largely unheated building.
For a home (outside of Hawaii ;)) you would want at least a dual glazed skylight with a thermal break frame. Otherwise you will likely have condensation problems - not to mention higher heating bills. These skylights are best done in a well flashed curb as Don mentions. For long term life use glass rather than plastic as the glazing for the skylights. I put in both glass and plastic skylights in my house in 1984. In 2004 when we redid the roof we replaced the plastic skylights with tempered glass. The plastic ones were hazy, the frames had cracked and they had lost their seal.
No school today (snow day!) so I spent the day on the forum catching up. Love this house! I'm considering 20 x 30 1 1/2 story for a project in a couple years and have learned a great deal from your experiences. I am so glad you're over the hassle with inspectors (fingers crossed). I'm waiting with anticipaton for your interior work...it's obvious it's going to be terrific and inspiring. When I bought my retirement property 10 years ago I put in the power and septic right then...I'm so glad as prices are so much higher now. Like you said, there's nothing you can do about it, the power company doesn't negotiate. I hope your driveway work wasn't too taxing...seems to me your contractor should have helped a bit---I have a question about your photos...when I went to the site I had to register, but the site indicates I need to pay $$$ to see the entire album...It goes up to image 700 something now, is there more?
Quote from: music1 on January 29, 2008, 08:34:36 PM
I hope your driveway work wasn't too taxing...seems to me your contractor should have helped a bit---I have a question about your photos...when I went to the site I had to register, but the site indicates I need to pay $$$ to see the entire album...It goes up to image 700 something now, is there more?
Hi there, and thanks for the encouraging words.
The driveway was an unpredicted expense, and my builder has come into my county, where he is unfamiliar with some of the county's differences at my request, because I really do trust him. He has saved me more money than he has neglected to predict, and I'm very pleased with his abilities. The house will realistically have 1644 to 1800 square feet when I am finished with an additional 560 square feet of porches under roof.
At the usual $100.00 per square foot that is predicted generally for the cost of new housing in this area, I will have a house that should have cost around $164,000.00, for only $100,000.00. I know it sounds high compared to owner-build homes, but for what I've got, that's kind of a builder-system-shock. The builder has really come around to believe in many things we've done to keep the costs down and the quality obvious.
I believe the snapfish.com photos are absolutely free to look at, but give you the option of purchasing them as prints for money. I don't know why they make folks join, but it is free. Lots of my friends use it, so I look at their albums easily through that site, and it was easy for me to use. and, yes, the numbers are up to 0712 so far. I'll add more by the end of the week, as we are now waiting for the sheetrock crew to come in.
I have photos of the boom truck putting over 50, 10 foot sheets of sheetrock through the upstairs window. That was fun. OH, and my builder, convinced the guy in charge of the sheetrock crew to go ahead and cover the ceiling in my little hobbit room upstairs for no additional charge. He originally quoted a $400.00 price to do it, and I said, no, just leave it. I don't know why, but that is an example of how Bear, my builder, has been well worth his fee.
Christina
Ya done with the rockin yet?????
Hi there WillieT,
The sheet rock is in, and most of the taping and mudding is finished. I've noticed 2 corner beads missing. The finishing crew is going back and forth from the job they are doing here and another job, so mine is left to dry right now. The house and porch are complete disaster zones from scraps, dust and mess. I don't want to take pictures until they get out of there. They are doing a very good job, and after the mess is gone, it will be my turn to get in there and paint, and finish the floors.
It sure does change the look of the house. I think it makes the rooms look taller, and smaller some how.
Our power line is buried and hooked up to the power pole on the road too. We now have a transformer on top of the ground half way down the driveway. The machine that did the final 200 feet of that job was an earthquake slicer thing that really shook itself with an enormous force and pulled a kind of blunt edge line feeder through the earth. It also shook my whole building that it ran down the side of. The operator said they were being nice and only ran it at 50% capacity so he wouldn't shake my building off its foundation. I believe him. Super cool machine!
I just loaded a few new pictures to my snapfish account of the cool machine, the boom truck loading sheet rock into the upstairs, and the ditches for the power and plumbing.
Christina
Movin' right along, Christina! :) how about putting the link to your pictures in your signature line so we don't have to go back all the time to find the link on this thread? ;D
Gee Sassy, that was a fine idea.
Hope it helps.
Christina
Thanks :) Although I do enjoy browsing through your thread ;D
Looking good. You will always have a mess of sorts until you are finished. If you never get done you will always have a mess :D By the way Christina what color is your roof? It's hard to tell from the angle of the pictures. Sometimes it looks green, then brown and then white or tan. I assume it is probably green to match your green trim.
The roof is the galvanized tin color. I really deliberated between the green, and red, both of which I like very much, but finally decided that I wanted no limitations for trim colors decided by the roof color. The tin color is really pretty and reflective without being dark and absorbing heat as much. I'm very pleased with it.
Christina
Christina the acid stain that I am familar with does not have those two selections. There is a stain that comes as you indicated but I don't think it is acid stain. I may be wrong. I have several sites for this procedure and once I take the feed bag off I will look them up and send them to you. From everyone I have talked to the "acid" stain is more permanent than those of H&C brand and others.
http://kemikogeorgia.com/color_chart.html
This is the link of the color chart that I'm using...the color I am wanting is called "Green Lawn Stain". I misquoted the name of the color..sorry about that.
Their application tips page seems pretty straight forward, and doable.
Christina
Christina Here are the sites that I have concerning "acid stain" for your concrete. The first link is a company that handles "True Etch" acid stain. There is four basic colors. I believe they have a formula for multi colored by repeated application and mixing. Normally the more applications the darker it gets. The price is probably a little less than at a retailer. It is sold in 5 gal with the ($125-190) application rate of 150-200 sq ft per gallon The others are sites associated. I never really went into depth as to the availability of their products. Probably a lot of good info if you took the time and went through them.
John
http://www.bontools.com/
http://www.acidstain.com/
http://www.elitecrete.com/
http://www.scofield.com/
http://www.concretenetwork.com/stained-concrete/index.html
I really like the lawn green - I was picturing a green color like the indoor/outdoor grass carpeting when you 1st mentioned the color & was thinking what a hassle it would be to keep clean beside, too much green. I shoulda known you would pick a good color 8)
I have sheet rock!
The last folks are here today sanding, and putting up a couple of corner beads that were left off. The dump truck just left with all of the messy scraps....of course there is a lot more to clean up, and right now there is an ominous white cloud of dust hovering around the house.
I hope to start the interior primer paint this weekend if the weather permits.
Christina
That is great news about having your sheet rock up. [cool] Now it is really starting to look like a home.
About all the dust, just take a water hose and wash the walls and floor down and let the water run out the front door. d* d* d* d* d* rofl rofl rofl
Good idea Wingam! ::) Christina - looking good! I love how the windows are set low & tall - gives you great um, shall I use the banned word? VIEWS [scared] n* :-X
This house will really be beautiful.....
Thanks for the kind words. I'm working today on getting the resin paper up from the floors and trying to remove as much sheet rock dust as I can. The paper tore in many places, and it's a mess.
Christina
Quote from: CWhite on February 08, 2008, 09:00:58 AM
Thanks for the kind words. I'm working today on getting the resin paper up from the floors and trying to remove as much sheet rock dust as I can. The paper tore in many places, and it's a mess.
Christina
CWhite,
I am very familiar with the area of Georgia where you live. DH and I lived there for 10 years in Hall and Habersham Counties and loved every day of it.
Beautiful country!
Helen, Sautee, Elijay, Hiawassee.....we hope to get back to the area for a visit in late September.
Oh yes, your home is beautiful!
Hi Christina,
I'm new here. I've been planning my house for about the last year now. The last of its many incarnations is very similar to yours so I've been reading these posts with interest and was a bit sorry when I got to the last one. I'm amazed at how quickly it all went. It looks beautiful.
My original plans were for 25x36 feet - though we're all metric now here in Australia. It took me ages to start thinking in millimeters (as that's what all the builders use) and now it's a bit tricky trying to change it back to feet and inches. But I've read on another thread that the extra width requires much stronger beams. (or something like that) How large are your upstairs rooms? This site has inspired me to think smaller.
I've been using google sketchup to draw up plans. The country plans look great and are a fraction of the cost of the cheapest plans I've found here in Aus (http://cheaphomedesigns.com). I'm wondering if the Aussie councils would pass them... (something for me to research at this end)
Hi Sab,
The upstairs floor plan is one big room with a 10 X 10 bathroom off in the rear corner. There is a doorway through the bathroom into the storage room (the area above the downstairs addition that is the main bedroom). I also have a large closet between the bathroom and the stairwell that brings that wall aside the stairs all the way up to the ceiling. I made the walls 4 feet tall upstairs and the ceiling height up there is 14 feet. Painting it right now is a bit of a struggle, but it will be worth it to me.
I will be building Scandinavian style box beds upstairs to use as guest accommodations for my children when they come home.
The 20 foot width of the house is very cozy feeling, and is all usable space. This is a downsizing for me and my husband. I want to quit acquiring more, and do will less and be able to clean the house easier. When I get the furniture in there (about 7 weeks from now I hope) the design will make more sense to my entire family.
I love the 10 foot ceilings in the downstairs with all of the big windows. The windows in my bedroom will be a flood of morning light each morning, and won't be appealing at all to those who enjoy sleeping in, but I'm very much a "up at dawn" kind of person. About 20 feet from the bedroom windows is the fence for my horses, and they stand and peak in the window while I'm in there working now, so I'm sure they will be there waiting for breakfast when I'm living in there.
I have yet to see how my concrete floors will be for me. I received a free sample from a company here in GA to test the color I want to use...lawn green from Kemiko. I will try it out today and tomorrow (2 day process) to see if it will do. If we don't care for the concrete, then we will probably tile the downstairs ourselves later on.
My plan is 20 X 36 feet, so with that extra footage on the length, I have room for the stairwell, and the hallway behind it, which acts to make the bathroom and bedroom doors more private from the entrance.
I'll take more photos this weekend when the paint is done. We start the trim on Tuesday, and it will be a bit unusual as well.
Thanks for the comments, and good luck with yours.
Christina
Our studio apartment area has a morning sun window with an Oak tree outside, Christina -- it's great to wake up to the morning sun there.
A family friend stayed here a couple months ago and really liked it.
A few bits of progress here. We have painted all of the interior walls, and tested a sample of the concrete floor with the lawn green acid etch solution.
The woman who helped me over the phone, said she had never seen anyone use "just" the green for an entire floor. That made me even more nervous, so she generously sent a small amount of it, enough for a 4' X 4' area, to try it out. She told me that marinas use a combination of green with blue on top of it for a water-like appearance in their showrooms, but green is not common.
When I asked her what the most common color is, she said "cola", hands down, used about 80% of the time.
When we used the green on the floor, I put it underneath the staircase so if it was really bad, I wouldn't have to see it. The concentrated acid is mixed half and half with water, is applied once, then after it dries, is applied again. Later, when it's completely dry, you clean off all of the dried up white stuff that comes to the surface, and then you put the finish on it. It is apparent what the finished floor will look like when it is wet again, while you are cleaning it.
We have chosen to put a two part, water based, epoxy finish on it instead of wax or acrylic sealer, because we have big dogs with toe nails, and a big nasty bird with a cage, and she needs to be cleaned up after a good bit. It will be applied with a lint free short fleece roller. We plan on doing the whole floor this weekend.
I loaded a few new pictures to my snapfish.com album.
thanks for looking
Christina
Looks very nice, Christina! I'm looking forward to seeing your floor :)
Ditto on the same as Sassy.
We had another lesson in "never done this before" this weekend.
The acid staining process is a little different than we expected, after what we experienced when testing it on a small patch last week.
I went to the local distributer about 1 1/2 hour drive from here to pick up the "hazardous material" to save on shipping, and watched the DIY lesson that she had there on video. Well, it looked easy and not intimidating, but after she got my check, and was loading it into my truck with me, she mentioned that the optimum temperature of the slab should be 74 degrees... That was funny. It probably won't be that temperature until mid-August.
As I really want to live in my house in less than two months, we decided to ignore the professional advice and forge on with what temperatures we have.
The pictures are posted on my snapfish.com album...link at bottom of message.
We only got through 2 coats this weekend...probably due to the colder temperatures, but I'll continue tomorrow and put on a recommended third coat for richer color. When it is dry, I'll spend a couple of days getting it clean again before we apply the epoxy finish next weekend.
The results are undetermined as of yet, but the glimpses we get of the effect when it is first wet looks promising so far. It will be a high gloss finish that should hold up to just about anything.
Christina
I guess it's a little late now but why couldn't you have put some heat on in the house to get up to the desired temp? BTW your house looks great.
I am confident that the floor treatment is working regardless of the chilly air. We had tested it the weekend before in very similar conditions.
Also, the concrete slab is so large, and extends outside onto the porches, that even with heat inside the building for 24 hours, which is all of the warning I had to prepare after the suggestion about temperature mattering, it will take weeks to raise its temperature.
We were also faced with time schedules, deadlines, and time to actually work on the house. This process had to be done this weekend.
Thanks for looking. I like the house very much.
Christina
I looked at the new pictures...The follrs are looking pretty good. Keek us up dated...I'm looking forward to seeing the finished color.
Now that the floors are at least stained, we've moved on to working on the interior trim. The wood stove is installed to help warm the place up while we work now too. It starts to look like home now.
We are going to hold off until it warms a bit before applying the epoxy finish to the floors. This morning, it was in the low 20's and snowed in a very minor way.
A few more pictures were added....the stove, and some of the unusual trim for windows. The style originates from Swedish farm houses.
Christina
Can't wait to see how you trim that curved window. ??? My best friend has that same woodstove in his house. [cool]
Christina I think the floor will turn out OK. You probably made a wise move by delaying the finish coat until warm weather. But you might consider laying something over it to protect it until you can seal it. At least in the foot travel area.
I have seen that style of stove before and they will probably adequately heat the area. If you are burning it now I think I would use some of my scrap metal(roofing) to place against the wall until you can stone or put something a little fire retardant behind it permenently.
Seems like your project is going 10 fold to mine. Keep up the good work and keep the progress report flowing.
My elbow is giving me fits today so I am going to take a day off. The temp is 10F and without heat it is very uncomfortable working on the cabin. I did manage to get the Kitchen ceiling/ loft floor in this past week and started on the bedroom/loft yesterday. Got to get some heat in there but by that time the temps will probably warm up. Didn't get above 28F yesterday
Hi Redoverfarm,
I have more of the rosin paper protecting the path of traffic just like you thought would be good. It just makes sense. At this stage, I think the floor finish could get scratched.
The stove is placed well over 20 inches from everything around it, and completely heats the house already. I got back there this morning and started the fire about 8:30, and by 9:30, it was very comfortable inside. Good insulation helps. :) It was 22 degrees here this morning, but the sun is up and it's predicted to warm up into the 40's today.
The doors came this morning. Some of them might be installed by the end of today, so I'll post pictures of them. They are flat panel solid wood, and I'm so glad I went with them. They suit the style of the house perfectly. I've purposely used blunt cuts in all of the trim instead of bevels and t he doors have that same appearance. After 19 years of framing pictures, I am not fond of bevel angles at all, so the blunt cut joints compliment the space and weight of the wood.
The trim is left over cypress we're ripping to make it the widths needed.
It sounds like you got a lot done on your place too. I'll look for your new pictures.
Remember, I have a lot of help working on mine that I have to pay for! You're doing it the way I wish I could. My bills are a lot higher.
Christina
Quote from: CWhite on February 28, 2008, 11:02:03 AM
I've purposely used blunt cuts in all of the trim instead of bevels and t he doors have that same appearance. After 19 years of framing pictures, I am not fond of bevel angles at all, so the blunt cut joints compliment the space and weight of the wood.
It sounds like you got a lot done on your place too. I'll look for your new pictures.
Remember, I have a lot of help working on mine that I have to pay for! You're doing it the way I wish I could. My bills are a lot higher.
Christina
For one I HATE to frame pictures. I am better at not so much detail. I guess with the right equipment it might not be so bad.
As for the trim work in the cabin I too will go for the box look as most of the older homes/cabins were nothing fancy. Alot easier to work with too. I just have been debating on the finish of the trim as it will be contrasting with the logs on the log portion. I might even go with the same stain that is on the outside sofits and Board & Batten as that is about the closest that matches the logs.
Speaking of the stove. Maybe you have stated previously what your treatment is going to be for the hearth and surround. If you haven't then the cultured stone IMO would be the best suited. It is very easy to install and the prep work is fairly easy. Need any advice on it I have done my fair share.
As for my pics I haven't done anything that you would be able to recongnize other than a old board floor. Basicly that is what the loft floors will look like, Sort of goes with the setting. I am debating on whether I should include a recepticle and cable box on the flue upstairs. It will be rock also as the chimney downstairs. It seems like everyone is going for the "flat screen" over the fireplace look. Won't be quite the same but similar. I could easily hide the wire under the stone and make the box a shallow and then make my own plate out of the cultured stone so it would not be seen.
Pictures look great. We're looking forward to seeing more.....
The pictures are not that great yet, but I added more images to my snapfish album of the trim. We have almost finished it. The base boards aren't in everywhere downstairs yet, but the windows are done.
It sure makes a big difference! It's starting to look civilized.
We haven't put the epoxy on the floors yet due to scheduling....not sure when we will right now. soon.
Next week, I hope to have the stair rails started, and get the light fixtures and plumbing fixtures into a starting stage.
Christina
Very, very nice, Christina! I'm anxious to see your floor when you get that finished!
Christina...
Everything looks great. The large porch is one of my favorite things.... and the really large room upstairs with those beautiful windows. You will enjoy every minute of living there!!! Thanks for sharing with all of us.
(https://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g166/jraabe/house-1.jpg)
Very nice job! I'll just add a teaser photo gleaned from the Snapfish album so that readers can get an idea of Christina's project without signing up at Snapfish.
That's looking great.
That is a gorgeous place. And really inspiring too.
Thanks for posting the pic, John.
I added some more carvings this week. We had some challenges trimming out the quarter round windows, because the curve didn't quite come out of a 12" wide board. I carved 2 little birds that measure 4" square to go in the upper corners, similar to a rondel placement that worked out well.
We also started installing the light fixtures, but we're all getting old, and the electrician had to stop and go to the chiropractor, because he was in pain.....some situations just can't be helped and take days.
The list is getting shorter now, but still seems pages long until we get to move in.
Meanwhile, I've planted some broccoli, and rhubarb in the garden, and poked the sugar snap pea, and salad green seeds into the ground. The chickens are a hazard to everything, but so far, it's all still there.
Christina
Those are nice carvings. I'm looking at the Flexcut tools now. Maybe someday I can carve something for my very own house...LOL
With this economy....It might not be the right time for us to start building...but your house is wonderful and all the special little things you all are doing really show up.
Great job!
Thanks for all the pictures.
Christinia
Looking real good. Won't be long now. I am sure you are anxious to get in there. Is your carving done by hand?
Hi WillieT, the economy worries us too. I think it is wise to consider, but I don't want to live without a house much longer so our choice was not really about time, but about housing, yes or no?
If you do decide to carve, consider other brands of carving tools as well. I use Pheil Swiss made that are available at Woodcraft. I have tried flexcut and don't care for them, but I know other carvers who like them. It depends on the style of carving you do. I carve relief work almost entirely. The long handled mallet tools are my favorite. Quality tools last for generations and getting the best is worth it like any tool.
Redoverfarm, yes I carve by hand unless I rough out a larger piece with my chainsaw, but that's not as often. The relief work is all done by hand.
Christina
Christina how is the wood stove working? Mine is still going 24 hours a day. Did let it burn down yesterday so I could get rid of some ashes as the temps were up. Looks like I will still be using it for sometime til the frogs start. ;D
Hi Redoverfarm,
The stove is by far the best I've ever used. It burns very efficiently down to a small amount of ash, and heats the entire house in about 20 minutes from cold.
I hate to pull the "southern" card, but the frogs have been up and active for awhile here, and we already have hatched out tadpoles in our pond. The weather here is warm enough to only light the stove to take the chill off now.
I will be posting more pics of our progress soon. It is hard to photograph around the construction right now, but the stairs are almost done, and I brought home the travertine for the shower yesterday. I'm hoping that most of the plumbing will be done his week too, but it's still too soon to tell.
How's your place coming?
Christina
Wake those frogs up, John. Ours , like Christina's have been going for weeks --- spring peepers.
Ours are still frozen under the ice. :(
Maybe we could chip them out? d*
I think frogs break -- like fish do -- if you chip them out while frozen. They may sound like a broken record when ribbeting if that happens. hmm
Everything you wanted to know about how frogs freeze:
http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/nationworld/2002118796_frogs14.html
They just do it a little faster here in Minnesota!
Wonder how the fish like them once they have been frozen? Gold fish I think also act like this in the little fish ponds that freeze over the winter. Got an aunt who says they will come back after the thaw. But she once lost several when a warm snap happened and then it got cold again. Look I have almost hijacked Christina's site. Sorry.
I have a set of custom made gun stocking tools that have served me well for about 30 years. A master gunmaker made them for me when I was twenty or so..... I've never used either the Flexcut or Phiel...but have heard good on both. Thanks for the advice. I look into it some more.
Got frogs here too....even a few flys...hot weather is on it's way!
See what you started Christina.... everyone on the site is so excited for Spring to be here
that we are all excited about the frogs return.
The warmer weather means all of us self-builders can get all the outside
projects done that have been waiting since last fall.
Happy Spring to All... those with frogs talking and those still waiting!!
Weird weather going on here....snowed off and on all day, but none left on the ground since the ground temp was nice and warm...just weird.
The crews are all gone, and the rest is up to us now on the house. The staircase is done up to the second floor, and we'll finish up the railing upstairs to match it next week.
I've loaded a few more interior detail snaps if anyone would like to go see the snapfish album.
The frogs are very unhappy tonight with the temperatures going down to 27 degrees tonight. I had to go put huge plastic tarps over my blueberry bushes hoping to save some of the blooms.
Christina
I told you it was too early for frogs. At least here as we had flurries today as well. Temp this am was 22-24F. My DW early flowers are dreading it too. All the ends of the new chutes are brown from abuse by Mother nature.
Debated on Chinking today trying to second guess the weather. A little cold (down to 20F will not effect it ) as long as it doesn't persist for a couple days. It will put off it's own heat the first 12-24 hrs. It was inside and I went for it. Tired of chinking. Got 36' done today with about 800 more to go. The outside took 80 hrs. So I am guessing the inside will be close to the same. A little longer as there are inside walls that are not exposed to the outside as the opposing walls. If there is anything I hate is being stuck on one aspect of a project for an extended period of time. Variety is the spice of life and right now I need some more variety. But if there is a up-side to this ramping it would be that the more I do the better I get I think?
Christinia be careful about using plastic to cover things. It transmits cold the same as it does heat and it will burn(freeze) your plants. I use cloth material if possible.
Hi,
Have ya got some new pictures yet? I was looking for the finished floors....
Hi WillieT,
I'm not ignoring you, I just haven't had time to take pictures. The floors look terrific. Not for everyone, but just exactly what I was hoping for. One thing I was supposed to be prepared for, but now, don't think I really was is how slippery the epoxy on the concrete is.
I just this evening put the 3rd coat of polyurethane on the wooden floors upstairs.
One more coat of epoxy will go on the concrete floors this week as well. Life happened and got in the way of our great plans to be done with this by now.
I'll try to post pictures in a day or two.
Christina
It's Wednesday morning, and I just took more pictures of the interior of the house, and loaded them to my snapfish.com account.
If anyone is interested in acid stained cement floors, then this might interest you.
We will put one more coat on the floors of the epoxy before it will be called done, and I don't know what will happen to the color. Right now, the green is very "water-in-a-lagoon" looking, with these large purple/blue splotches. I didn't expect the splotches, and really like them. That color came out of no where when the epoxy was applied. It may disappear when we do the second coat for all I know.
We have finished the upstairs floor (also pictured) with 3 coats of clear satin finish polyurethane, and I'm very pleased with the results.
The peacock on the porch railing is Petry. He has taken the porch as his own, and I am glad it's concrete so I can wash it easily. Peacocks are very special and to be treasured, but they sure leave their mark often.
Christina
Wow. I love your floors, and your peacock is lovely too.
So do I! That would be exactly the colors I would like if I didn't those types of floors - hope its stays that way - seems like it should, don't you think? The 2nd layer of epoxy won't contact the acid wash floor... and what a pretty peacock. Glenn used to have all sorts of exotic birds, including peacocks - the colors of your floors... they're pretty noisy, though...
Thanks Ailsa and Sassy,
I love the floors too. We still haven't put on the second coat of epoxy, because then we can't work in the house. It will get done this week sometime. We are now finishing up the stair rails and the kitchen cabinets are next. Then, we get the occupancy certificate (hopefully without drama....it will be the same (cue the shark music) building inspectors. Without it, we have no power. Afterwards, we can move in, and I have hot baths!
2 weeks....2 weeks...2 weeks....I hope.
Christina
This project is turning out very nicely. I'll post some photos uploaded to Photobucket.
(https://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g166/jraabe/slabfloor.jpg)
Slab floor with an acid wash (see notes)
(https://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g166/jraabe/upfloor.jpg)
Upper wood floors.
(https://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g166/jraabe/tubfloor.jpg)
Nice tub!
Hey John Raabe,
Thanks for posting the pic. Those floors do look great. The acid wash concrete turned out super. I would love to have that tub too.
Larry
Those floors ARE great, and the window frames look very stylized and unique - I really like them.
Christina my hat's of to you. [cool]
BiggKidd, the tub was one of my finds from craigslist.com. I silver leafed the feet and painted the outside green. It looks terrific, and fits the spot very well.
Pericles, the floors are a very good way to treat a concrete slab. We are looking for low-maintenance forever, and this seemed right. The colors are excellent to me, but my husband thinks they are very dark.
John, thanks for putting those pictures up. It sure must be strange to watch your original design get so distorted and changed in so many ways.
Thanks Redoverfarm. By the end of the week, I should have a lot more parts finished. I'll put more pictures up then. We hung 3 cabinets yesterday, and finished the railings upstairs already.
It is also 39 degrees here this morning. Not cold enough to freeze my blueberry buds, but pretty chilly.
Christina
Changing his design and making it your design is John's design, Christina, and you are doing a great job of it.
Quite a showpiece there.
Christina finally got a chance to go look at youor recent pics other than what John had posted. You've done a good job. The floors turned out real nice looking. Now just get you a can of "stove black" and hit the fisher once you don't need the heat. That shouldn't be too long for you in the south. As for us flurries today with lows pred to lower 20's tonight. Suppose to warm up Wed here. Lack about 2-3 days on the inside chink and then onto something different. I need your artistic flare. ;D c*
Amazing pictures, I just looked at all 184. The petry in the last one is a sight to behold!
I love the etched floor and the hand carvings you did!
Thanks for sharing all that with us :)
Your house is a masterpiece. I really like it.
Love your house, Christina. I bet you can't wait to move in! I know I'd be chomping at the bit. I have never been a big fan of concrete, but the floors look incredible, and easy to keep clean, too. How long does it take for the epoxy smell to clear out after you put a coat of it on? I like the color, too. DH and I have talked about solar radiant heated floors, which would work well with concrete, but the thought of concrete always kind of turned me off, but have to admit after seeing your house, it makes me strongly reconsider. I like the spring of a wood floor better, but as you pointed out, it's low maintainence and looks great. Gorgeous work... looks like art.
Hi Homegrown,
The epoxy smell went away when the floor dried. I don't remember it smelling that bad really. The ammonia smell when we had to neutralize the acid staining process was the nose killer. Epoxy was nothing compared to that.
I've always had wooden floors, and it took me awhile to agree to the cement floors downstairs. I must admit, I really like them, but I haven't moved in yet. The wood floors upstairs will be very comfortable.
We are working on the kitchen cabinets now. The handrails for the stairs are all done. We got the sink installed today. The counter top wound up being left over cedar rails from the porch and 2 X 4's. It looks surprisingly good. I'll post pictures after we get the front on the cabinets.
Christina
Thanks Mike, that's a pretty high compliment.
My husband stood back after I put the second coat of polyurethane on the countertop and asked where we should sign it....I told him I'm going to sign the whole house.
I've put my heart and soul into it.
Christina
Hi Bishopknight,
I'm glad you enjoyed the pics. Petry is on the porch an awful lot lately. He thinks we built him a house. We have two peahens too, and they stay on the steps in front of the bedroom looking at themselves in the reflection in the doors. Not much privacy around here. The horses can see inside the house from their fenced in field too.
Christina
Christinia I ran across this on another forrum. There was a part that I thought you would want to see regarding exterior which I will highlight. Sort of after the fact but I was thinking of you
John
1st, there're 2 types of conc stain, acid-reactive & non,,, most problems that arise mention both these brands altho some pro's use k,,, unaware of any who use h other'n painters & wanna-be stainers.
we ALWAYS use 3,500psi, 4gpm press wshr to prep incl tsp & degreasers as nec,,, unaware of ANY solid stain other'n conc dye - h doesn't fit my definition of penetrating stain,,, we neutralize acid-reactive stains w/1ammonia:8wtr & p/w to remove remaining mineral salts,,, caution - blue or green're not recommended for ext work as copper salts oxidize turning black.
imo, conrad's exp's anecdotal & generally not experienced by pro's,,, most repair work we enounter involves mentioned brands & their oft reported customer-no-svce.
we've never acid-wash'd a d/w prior to acid-reactive stain,,, acid reacts w/conc's free lime,,, pre-mix is a waste im-pro-o & can actually retard/ruin the process,,, all this being said, yes, you can do it - good luck !
Thanks John for the info. Our acid stained floor is a done deal.
We put the 2nd coat of epoxy on our indoor floors on Friday night. It seems to scratch a lot easier than we expected, but it may need more time to cure.
We moved in some furniture yesterday, and spent the first night in the house last night.
Still no electricity except for the one extension cord still, but the occupancy certification was granted on Friday with no problems..(thankyou, thankyou, thankyou) and the power company should come put in the meter early this week. Then, I will have hot water and lights!
We still have details to complete, but it is now a house.
Thanks for all of the help.
Christina
Hi Christina
Love your floor's ,hope I have the energy to do same if I every get around to building, seems to be slipping away again with the economy and all. Also your carvings are really special. I was wondering about the inside window trim, is that your Idea or the builder. Is that common around there, might have to steal it :) Also I had asked you about the piece of trim on the outside between the corner boards and siding never saw that before? The 3/4" piece? You never answered and I didn't ask again because you where so busy. I would guess that might be because some time your siding sticks out a little further then your corners ,used to drive me nuts when I saw that.
Mike
Hi Mike,
Sorry I didn't answer before. Don't know why I didn't.
The exterior siding edges you mentioned do even up the edges, and the framing crew who did it, came up with it on their own, and I just nodded when they told me what they were going to do.
It is a full inch thick in order to trim out the siding well. The cypress came from a Washington, Georgia saw mill directly.
The inside trim style is influenced by both interior and exterior trim on Swedish farm houses. The panels created underneath the windows inside were often painted to depict the family's successes.
In keeping with Swedish tradition, I will be carving diamond shaped panels to apply to the wood shapes already in place for a bit of extended surface feature. The themes of the carvings will depict my children's fields of study. My son is an entomologist (I will carve a stag beetle for him), another is a marine biologist (I will carve a parrot fish for her), the other two, daughter and her husband to be are both ornothologists (I will carve two birds for them, a robin, and a black throated blue warbler)....more than you wanted to know probably.
The appraiser was just here, so I get to see if my efforts paid off monetarily in a few days. Unlike many of the builders on this forum, we will have a mortgage, and are due to close on Thursday of this week. This is our full-time residence, and is on the property where we operate our art studios and gallery, and have a sculpture garden that is open to the public. Our lifesyle is kind of different from a lot of folks. If it isn't being done as creatively as we can, then we quickly loose interest and go numb.
Thanks for the comments and for looking at the pictures.
Christina
I love the way the trim has turned out. I essentially copied it from Sweden, don't have a problem with someone copying it from me. Go for it.
It is a great house, Christina.
Good think I'm not your kid. You have to carve a panel with Fred Flintstone on it. d*
Christina... The carvings and all the other extras really make it YOURS.
Even if the bank has an interest in it, look what you have to show for all your work.
Be proud of your hard work and talents... ENJOY!!
Thanks Glen, yes, Fred Flintstone would be your icon. Cave living in animal skins....
Thanks also to you Deertracks. I am proud of it. I am still waiting for the power and the first hot shower, but it is very peaceful sleeping indoors again.
Christina
I have power, lights, hot water....I'm home at last.
I am being really weird about moving stuff into the house now. I like it roomy and sort of empty. I intend on taking my time, and not putting anything in there that clutters it up.
Christina
Christina sounds like to me that you are about ready for a "yard sale".
Maybe you need to add a storage shed, Christina.
Hi John and Glen.
Glen, if you could see how many "sheds" I already have on the property, you would laugh at that suggestion.
I have a horse barn 36 feet x 48 feet with left over lumberparts in it from the house construction, there is the studio building where we have been storing our belongings for about a year and a half...it is about 12 feet by 80 feet with a 12 foot porch over hang on the 80 foot length....then, we have the gallery that measures 36 feet by 80 feet with a 12 X 24 foot office inside it....
I don't need another shed, I just need to get rid of stuff.
I saved stuff for my kids (now grown) thinking I would be saving them money when they made their own homes....that was where I went terribly wrong. They don't want old stuff. They want their own new stuff. I don't want the old stuff either.
My method of unpacking and moving into the house now, is to go through each box, each piece of furniture with a plan. What I don't have room for, goes. What I don't need, goes. What I have had for 5 years, thinking I would need it, and never have, goes (unless it's a tool...tools always stay). It takes time, but I don't want to live in the cluttered style that I've lived in prior to this house.
I don't really think a yard sale would work, because it's pretty awful stuff.
Yes, I am "changing my ways"....
Now, this is just a test. I can change my mind if I have to. My family is already chuckling and saying "sure Mom". But I really want to change!
Christina
I don't really think a yard sale would work, because it's pretty awful stuff.
Christina you know what they say. "One mans junk is another mans treasure". I seriously doubt knowing you that it is pretty awful stuff. Shoot if I were closer I am sure some could be made for decorating the cabin.
Try Ebay -- people will buy anything on there. I know -- I bought some of it. [crz]
Question for you, Christina. Have you used the upstairs AC unit yet? I am curious how it working out. Also, how are you cooling the main level? Thanks
Hi teacher2
No, I haven't used the ac unit upstairs, because it's still kind of cool here at night. The house stays very comfortable, even during the day with the very high ceilings. We have not experienced hot temperatures yet, and that is why I installed that unit upstairs.
The split unit does work. I have turned it on just to test it, and friends I have who use the same unit swear by them.
Christina
I bet the spray insulation you had to do because of the vapor barrier issue will turn out to be a blessing in disguise. That stuff is supposed to be awesome. You'll probably save a ton on cooling costs.
Oddly, I have never had an airconditioner before. This area's climate is rarely too hot to stand. Even if it gets to 100 degrees for a few days in August, it cools always down at night. \
I'm outside more than I am inside, so there are many folks who would not agree with me, but I also have no use for a clothes drier....would rather hang the clothes outside for the smell and free drying process than have to make more money to pay for the appliance and then run it.
The airconditioner upstairs is more for guests who may not be able to sleep upstairs in the hot summer than for me and my husband. We sleep downstairs.
Christina
Here in Texas it can be near 100 during the day and still be 90 or so at midnight, especially July through early September. It just doesn't cool down much. The humidity can get really high, too. It is just too miserable to sleep when it is that hot. How tall are you ceilings downstairs?
The ceilings downstairs are 10 feet. I also left the cathedral ceilings upstairs in the 12/12 pitch. It makes the house seem much larger, and the ceiling fans help with the air circulation. I do need to buy window screens soon.
North Georgia was a well kept secret, that is quickly gaining recognition. The elevation here is such that we often enjoy temperatures 10 degrees cooler than Atlanta even though we are less than 1 1/2 hours north of there. Most winters, we don't see snow accumulation of more than 2 inches that lasts for a day or two....just long enough to take pictures of it. You would have to drive north for about 8 hours to buy a snow shovel. :)
Christina
Hi Christina,
Just to say thanks for posting your build for us all to see. My wife and I just looked through your snapfish album. The place is beautiful and testament to your good taste and artists eye.
We hope to build the 1 1/2 story in the near future and your place is full of great ideas and inspiration.
Thanks again
Al
Thanks Al,
I keep meaning to take some more pictures and post them, but haven't gotten around to it yet.
This forum helped me a lot through the process, and hopefully, when you start your house, you'll follow suit and show us your creative differences. They are all so unique, even when built off of the same plans.
Good luck to you.
Christina
Christina, I was just thinking about you yesterday that we hadn't heard from you for awhile. Glad you checked in! I am anxiously awaiting updated pics as I'm sure others are :) Bet you are really enjoying your place!
I'll grab and post a few pictures from the Snapfish album for Christina...
(https://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g166/jraabe/cwhite-3.jpg)
Installing the spray foam insulation in the sloped rafter bay. Notice how it will seal right to the bottom of the metal roofing and seal the entire space.
(https://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g166/jraabe/cwhite-4.jpg)
View of the loft and dormer framing.
(https://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g166/jraabe/cwhite-2.jpg)
The gable addition and french doors.
I have finally added a few more pics to the very bottom of my snapfish.com site.
If you scroll down to the bottom you'll see the newer images.
You think you're done being busy when you move in, but NO. You have so many details, and details, and living, and maybe just sitting there looking at stuff, or taking a hot shower....sleeping in a real bed....
Life is much better living in my new house, than living in "other places".
I know the images are large, but I've tried to shrink them on my program 2 times. Let me know if you can't access them. John, you're welcome to do your transfer thing if there are pics you like especially.
Christina
Thanks for the update, Christina. Glad your in your house.
I thought someone might like an update on how the house actually "lives" during the year.
Well, the cold temps haven't hurt anything. We are snug as bugs in there. The woodstove is awesome, and heats the entire house easily. We haven't used the gas back up heaters at all. The insulation in the roof probably helps more than can be measured.
The real surprise is the concrete floor. I thought our main investment this winter would be really good slippers! No need. The floor is the thermal mass that keeps the temperature constant! I couldn't be more amazed at the immediate temp change from just inside and outside the doors onto the concrete porch!
It does the same thing when it's hot outside, by the way. The cooler slab can keep the temps cooler inside when it's hot outside.
Now, please remember that we do not have thermal heating tubes inside the floor. It is kept warm by the woodstove. I'm so curious now, why more folks don't build on a slab. I used to hate them, but elevating it took that kind of low look away for me which was my main objection.
The finish on the slab is a little bit of a disappointment. The epoxy finish does scratch easily, and we've had to be very careful with little felt bumpers on the bottom of every table, and chair leg. The dark color shows every dog hair and bit of dust too, but I still really like the lagoon green. It seems to absorb the heat of the morning sun coming in the windows too.
Well, I'm more than satisfied with the house. It is home now. I'll post more pictures when I finish the 50 feet of carvings I'm working on that will be installed around the box beds.
Christina
Thanks for the evaluation Christina. Looking forward to seeing more pictures.
Much of California is built with slab floors.
Now that is a house you can really live in.
I love your box beds, what a cool way to use space.
Hi Christina, thanks for letting us know how things are going - sounds like you guys are quite comfortable! I'd read that the epoxy acid wash finish floors were easily scratched although some friends of ours who have a strawbale house & the cement floors, haven't had much problem - their floors are more of a turquoise color & they have lots of animals plus clay ground that kicks up a lot of dust. They are also on solar & are hooked up to the grid.
I forgot my password to your pix, have to request it again. I love your house!
Hi all,
Been awhile since I posted, but I check in to see the houses going up occassionally. I had to get back to work doing what I do, and not spend so much time building a house, talking about building a house, and collecting things to build the house with.
I have continued, however, to carve installations for the house. I'll post a picture of my installed, carved box beds with curtains on them when I get a decent picture of them.
I have a question for the finer woodworkers on the forum.
My staircase has a nice area under it that I'm using as a pantry. I am carving 2 doors that will open outward and measure 20 1/2" X 71" each, and be built with 3 1/2 " shelves on the inside to hold canned food.
My question is how to determine the space needed between the doors to have them swing open without getting hung up on each other. I am not a woodworker so much as a woodcarver, and would rather have this information ahead of time than have to fix it later. Any answers?
Thanks in advance,
Christina, who has lived happily in her house for one year now.
Hi Christina! Good to hear from you. Glad you are enjoying your house - been wondering how you've been & what new stuff you might have done on the house. Looking forward to seeing more pics! :)
Hi Sassy,
Nice to be remembered. I'll try to get some more pictures in the next few days. The house is wonderful and very livable, even with the unplanned baby-grand piano that I didn't expect to be living with.
Christina
Christina good to hear from you again. Hope you are enjoying your new house.
As for the doors. Are you afraid that the 3-1/2" protrusion will effect the doors closing? I would set back the shelves by 1" from the edges. I am not sure this is actually what you are talking about. Just a SWAG.
Hi John,
First of all, good to hear from you too. I've been watching (lurking) your progress for all this time, and I love the floors you've finished. Those cabinets are well done too, but then, I would expect no less from your work. The cabin is wonderful.
Thanks for replying to my question. Your suggestion is probably the best way to go. I'm carving several points of interest on the pantry doors, and that part is naturally taking much longer than building the doors will take. I'm almost done with the carvings, so naturally, I have to plan the construction of the doors themselves. I keep going to sleep thinking about them and usually I find a solution to any problem while I'm asleep. These doors have me a bit worried that my plans will prove to be faulty after I've spent time building them.
To be on the "safe" side, I believe I will push the shelves back behind the edge a bit. I hadn't thought of that, and now that it seems to be the solution, I wonder why I didn't.
Thanks again John,
Christina
Not much added to my photo album (linked from the bottom of page), but the last 3 pictures at the bottom are of the box beds with some of the carvings in place. It at least shows where I'm going with it.
These two double bed sized box beds serve as private quarters for visiting grown children. Not enough room to move back in, but makes them comfortable for visits.
I think you can still just click right to the album.
:)
Christina
Christinia are each of those cubes a double bed. If so are they divided by the verticle mid point. Unique.
Yes, they are both double beds, and yes there is a wooden wall between them.
They are just platform beds with the mattresses on the plywood bottom, and are more comfortable than my own bed downstairs. My grown kids love them.
Christina
I have been "missing" for so long, that few will remember me here, but the house we built is still wonderful.
I am going to sell it though so I can move on to the next stage of existence.
If the state of things will let me, I hope to buy an older cabin further up into the mountains of north Georgia and be mortgage free and even small than what we are here. Scaling down can be done in stages as it turns out.
Hope all of my old buddies are doing well here, and I'll try to look through many of the threads to see what you've been up to.
Christina
Still here Christine. Keep us informed on what you do and what you end up with. Remember we are just a ping away.
John
HI ya'll, It is me again.
I still haven't sold my place, but we have purchased a bit of land north of Blue Ridge, GA in the Cohutta Wilderness to build our next home to live in. We are still working on the final plans, but I know it will be small, and we will be doing most of the work ourselves. We are using the country plans again, but will go a bit smaller this time.
I just reviewed all of my snapfish photos and got tired just looking at them. We have a long way to go "again".
Our new place is on a small pond and I'll show it to you when I start a new thread on building the house and studio that we want.
Christina
Christina look forward to it. :)
Also truly looking forward to it ! [cool] [cool]
How much smaller are you contemplating?
Small is always good ;)