Looking at some cedar shiplap siding. How does it hold up in arid climate? Specifically the okanagan.
Climatewise it is fine, fire would be my concern.
If your are in a wildfire risk area I would rethink any wood used on the exterior. Cement fiber lap siding looks good painted and will make insurance companies happy.
My folks have a house with lapped cedar that is going on 40 years. It gets the occasional pressure wash and oil finish and still looks pretty darn good. It's great at being weather and bug resistant, but in a remote cabin I'd look for metal or cement-board siding.
That's fire country!
Thanks for all the responses, I think I will go with hardie plank. I can get the cedar for a decent price, but it's not much cheaper than the hardie.
Quote from: busted knuckles on January 23, 2017, 06:51:45 PM
Thanks for all the responses, I think I will go with hardie plank. I can get the cedar for a decent price, but it's not much cheaper than the hardie.
Putting Hardie board on my cabin this summer.
Fire resistance is my main reason but the minimal maintenance is good too. ;)
Hardie also has all the soffitt, fascia and trim pieces too
Quote from: DaveOrr on January 23, 2017, 08:58:28 PM
Putting Hardie board on my cabin this summer.
Fire resistance is my main reason but the minimal maintenance is good too. ;)
That's what we call a win-win situation! [cool]
That HardiePlank select cedermill looks great.
Quote from: MountainDon on January 23, 2017, 11:17:46 PM
Hardie also has all the soffitt, fascia and trim pieces too
Yes they do, but I'm using western red cedar for that part.
I think it will really make the look pop. ;)
Dave, the fire guys who were here on the last wild fire told me that "yea you should box all that fascia and soffit in with fibrous cement" but since it is all up on the 2nd story it really is not going to help much. The 1st story is were the real benefit of having a fire resistant siding like Hardieboard happens.
They also liked that I only had the wood deck on one side of the house and that was the side I could easily defend. I could forget about the other side as it was pretty much fire proof. Pretty much......
We have had the fire crews through and around our place twice. They all agree that the less material that can burn the better. The eves and soffits often feed the fire into the attic.
I'm also planning to mount 3 agricultural sprinklers on the roof.
Possibly some lower down as well. They will be fed from a Honda powered fire pump with lake water.
I plan to be able to take care of it myself if needed.
Luckily I'm a mile away from a very important piece of infrastructure, a hydro power plant.
The response times to fires are insanely fast. Had one 2 miles away last July and there were 2 water bombers, a spotter plane and 2 chopper loads of fire fighters on site in 15 minutes. :)
Hopefully this works.
The link is to a video of the water bombers filling up in my bay.
https://www.facebook.com/dave.orr.35/videos/1471458696213798/ (https://www.facebook.com/dave.orr.35/videos/1471458696213798/)
Video worked for me. Very cool!
Quote from: MountainDon on February 23, 2017, 02:09:24 PM
We have had the fire crews through and around our place twice. They all agree that the less material that can burn the better. The eves and soffits often feed the fire into the attic.
But Don you are not a 2 story home. They told me that the thing that usually causes a 2 story to burn is having too large of a wire mesh on the vents.
If the house has it's 100 feet of combustible clearance it is pretty hard to ignite a metal roofed home from the second floor unless the windows blow out.
That also is hard if the 100 feet is a safe zone. And the fact that it has survived a fire burning all around it twice is pretty good evidence.
They felt this way because there was little chance of a crown fire developing because we had removed many trees 300 feet or more from the home.