32 x 36 in S.E. Oklahoma need your help

Started by Dallas2build, March 06, 2010, 08:22:15 PM

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ScottA

I'd suggest moving the woodstove by the stairs too. It would be closer to the center of the house and work alot better.

Dallas2build

The roof will actually be oriented the other direction.  The ridgebeam will run the 36' length.  I had planned to use 6x6's to support the ridgebeam on each end and at the corner of the stairs there will be a pole to support the ridgebeam at the halfway point.  I understand those will need to be solid supported all the way down to the piers.

The load bearing walls will be the outside walls and the bedroom wall with all the built in storage space on it.


Fred_47460

Quote from: Dallas2build on March 15, 2010, 05:41:36 PM
The roof will actually be oriented the other direction.  The ridgebeam will run the 36' length.  I had planned to use 6x6's to support the ridgebeam on each end and at the corner of the stairs there will be a pole to support the ridgebeam at the halfway point.  I understand those will need to be solid supported all the way down to the piers.

The load bearing walls will be the outside walls and the bedroom wall with all the built in storage space on it.

It would seem to me that if the roof ridge runs from left to right in the drawing that you will hit your head on the roof as you climb the stars to the loft. I guess it depends on the height in the attic. Maybe I don't understand....wouldn't be the first time I was confused!! ???

Edited to add: By the way....AWESOME property!!!

Dallas2build

#28
The loft will be the end over the bathroom, kitchen and bedroom.  The backside will be a full 8' wall with a shed style roof.  Basically half of the back will be a shed dormer.  So when you hit the top of the stairs it will be an 8' ceiling.

I hope it's ok that I'm borrowing an image from another members thread.  This is from Don & Ginger Lundgren's thread.  This is what the back will look like and why you won't hit your head at the top of the stairs.



Much of my design and orientation of the cabin is to maximize the view to the southeast.  That is the view out the bottom right hand corner of the plans.  It is overlooking the large bend in the creek from up on the bluff.

That brings up another question.  I had planned to use a 6x6 post in that corner to allow placement of windows as close as possible to that corner to maximize the view.  Is that feasible and see there any engineering concerns there?  What is the normal distance to a corner for a window and will the 6x6 allow me to get around that?

Dallas2build

A pic of the view I will have from my back porch.  I have several trees to cut and a lot of underbrush that needs to be removed to clear the view, but I think it will be a nice view once cleaned up. 



Redoverfarm

Nice location but I would keep the girl.  She just adds something to the view. ;)

ScottA

Can you get her to stand there every time you sit on the porch?

Dallas2build

[slap] That's my wife!

Ok, I see how this works.  I post questions that go unanswered for two days.  Post a picture of a woman and BAM! you guys are all over it in 30 minutes.  :)  I will pass your compliments on to the Mrs.

Anyone got any thoughts on my beam and corner post question or am I going to have to keep posting pics of chics?

Fred_47460

I am totally incompetent to answer any structural questions....but if you keep posting pictures of your wife I can always make something up  :D


Don_P

I quit looking when your pictures took 5 minutes each to crawl over the mountains. Broadband, I'd be tickled with a new string. The commotion did get my curiosity up, if I respond now my wife will slap me   :D
A corner post is fine, or with steel and design a glass corner can be done. Off the top, I believe your braced wall section needs to start within 12' of the corner. The top plate acts as a collector or drag strut. If you push on the corner, the force travels down the wall till it gets to the braced section and the racking is restrained, so no the braced section doesn't have to be in the corner. You do need to bear the loads from above safely

eddiescabin

Looks like a cool design...I only see a problem with the 2 foot wide stairs.  With all the room available/ large sized living/ dining rooms, seems a standard size staircase would be an easy fix.

ScottA

You'd be better off nailing 4 2x6's together than using a 6x6. Less likely to warp. But I see no issues with it.

Dallas2build

I did not realize that.  I always thought a solid beam would be less likely to warp.  So my next question would be about my headers for the windows located nearest this built up corner post.  Would I attach a king stud to the side of the post and let me header rest on that?  Is that enough to support the header?

MountainDon

The header is supported by a jack or trimmer stud at each end. Depending on the header span and loads, two or more jack studs may be required at each end. There are also steel brackets that can take the place of jack studs. They would be nailed to the king stud.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


Dallas2build

So in this case my king stud will actually be my corner post I am using.  I would attach the jack stud directly to it and rest my header on the jack?  Any thoughts on the steal brackets?  My overall goal is to minimize the area in the corner between the windows on the cornering walls.  I also plan to have as many windows in this room as possible.  What is the minimum wall I can build between the windows and still properly carry the load and eliminate racking?

MountainDon

Chapter 6 of the IRC covers wall construction. There are specific recommendations for brace wall requirements. The brace wall section starts at R602.10. There are illustrations, charts and tables.  There are versions available for viewing on line...

VA  https://www2.iccsafe.org/states/Virginia/Residential/Res-Frameset.html

Seattle, WA  http://www2.iccsafe.org/states/Seattle2006/seattle_residential/res_frameset.htm

Local areas may elect to make modifications so a local check can be useful. Public Libraries usually have a copy of the books for reference use.


The short story is that a brace wall is usually required every 12.5 feet. A brace wall can be a solid 4x8 sheet of structural rated 7/16" OSB. There are many other possibilities listed as well as special engineered solutions.

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Dallas2build

Thank you mtn Don, Scott, Don P, Red and you other guys for your help.  I really appreciate your help.  I'm going up this weekend to clear some more brush and do some tree trimming.  I should get a chance to check my elevation changes and get it graphed out.  I will try to take a few pics, hopefully a few will be of some smallies.  They should be getting ready to start bitting.

river place

We're about an hour east of you and sometimes ride through the Kiamichi's on my way to ride OK 1 and AR 88.  We bought land on the Ouachita River near Pencil Bluff AR as we had to be on water also.  So far only a travel trailer and 30x40 pole barn but will begin building next year.

Dallas2build

I'm still planning away guys, just haven't had any time to take pictures.  Been cutting and burning brush and picking up deadfall and rocks every chance I get.  I took a picture, worked about a week and took another picture.  There is so much brush and deadfall around after a week you couldn't tell a difference in the picture.  The crew that cut the pine off of the place a few years ago left an awful mess.

So my next question is about the engineered I-beams.  I found a surplus lumber place here that has lots of them and at a good price.  The problem is that they have been uncovered outside for a little while.  There is no visible deterioration, no warping, no sign of the glue coming undone.  Would exposure to weather cause these to be a total loss?  How much weather could these things handle and still be sound building materials?  Would it be too big of a gamble?