Little House Plans

[sherman]

I purchased the little house plans from you a couple years ago and am finally getting started on building a 12 x 16 shed.  I have two questions for you. I am going to have to make my own pier blocks as they are not available here with the Simpson connectors. What type of cement should I use.  Is the bag concrete mix for fence posts ok, or should I plan on making a mixture of sand and cement? Is it better to make 12" x 12" pier blocks or to make the concrete block pier you show on the 16' x 28' foot cabin handout. I guess the concrete question stays the same either way.

Also, on the beam sizing. I am placing the pier block set-up with gravel and concrete pads on 6' centers. Do I still need a 10" beam or can I use a 8" beam??

This is my first building project and things are still a bit confusing.

Thanks for your help.

Suzanne

[MountainDon]

  to the CPForum suzanne!

Regarding the concrete the ready bag mix like Quikrete is fine. The most common fault of mixing concrete is to use too much water. Quikrete gives a wide range (60# start with 4 pt o water add 4 - 7 pt, 80# start with 6 pt  add 6 - 9 pt). Mix well and get it all damp wet. The mix should be fairly stiff. The next most common fault is to let the mixed concrete dry out too fast. Keeping it covered with plastic will slow the evaporation. Concrete solidifies, cures, through a chemical reaction not by evaporation. Moisture is required for the curing.

If you are placing the piers on 6 ft centers I believe the 4x10 beam would be advised. I'm certain John will check in and give us his advice on that. That may be a built up beam if you have trouble finding a real 4x10.

http://www.countryplans.com/builtupbeam.html

[MountainDon]

Whether to use a ground block or a deeper pier...

A pier, in a hole dug deep enough to put the footing below the expected maximum frost level is perhaps the better solution. Where are you located? Do you know the local frost depth?

That said I have a shed that sits on blocks that are partially in the ground, partially above ground. It has moved slightly through a couple years of winter frost cycles, but the door has never jammed solid. On the other hand for my cabin I dug 36 to 40" deep holes (well below expected frost depth) and poured concrete footers. My soil is very well drained. In other soils that drain poorly, piers below frost depth would definitely be advised over pads/blocks sitting on the ground, unless a special insulated technique was to be used.

[rick91351]

I would not use the post mix.  It really has no standards to meet.  It is designed to hold and firm up fence posts.  Concrete mix on the other hand is a mixture of rock, sand and cement.

Most such a Sakrete, or in this area another brand is Handy both claim

High strength concrete mix for anchoring posts and poles, and pouring footings and slabs.

   * Meets ASTM C 387 strength requirements for structural applications
   * Premium quality for consistent strength and durability.
   * Build walks, drives, slabs and steps. Anchor posts and poles.
   * For applications requiring at least 2 inches in thickness.
   * Just add water.

One thing to keep in mind when mixing concrete.  To much water when mixing will weaken it.  (But it does have to be wet)    

[sherman]

Thanks for your information regarding the concrete!  I live in central CA. No frost conditions here at all. I have been unable to locate the pier blocks with the Simpson PB44 or anything like it. Everyone here has pier blocks with metal straps that are embedded into the pier block. Is it ok to substitute with those?

[MountainDon]

Simpson has a number of brackets that could be used in a poured concrete pier.

They have an online catalog

http://www.strongtie.com/products/categories/post_bases.html

Not every bracket may be readily available at big box stores. Real lumber yards might have more, but you should be able to find ones that will work.

[sherman]

Do I need to make the pier blocks square or could I use a 12' diameter sonotube?

[John Raabe]

Sure you could use tubes and directly embed the bracket. If you are in good soil that is well drained you could use a 12" to 16" tube and cut 8" to 12" sections to pour right on the ground or on gravel pads. You would thus use them as a form. Use the larger tube if you are in soft sandy soil. In rock or gravel the 12" diameter would be fine.

[sherman]

Thanks very much for help with the concrete question and the sonotube question.  Two more: The shed is 12 x 16. the piers are 6' on center. Do I need the 4" x 10" beams or will 4x8 work?  If I wanted to buy pier blocks here the only thing that is close is a pier block with a metal strap embedded into it. It seems a bit weak, but would those do?  Thanks again.

[John Raabe]

I would stick to the plan beams. It gives you a bit of future slack if you want to have a porch or wood shed roof that puts some new weight on the wall. That said it will not fall down if you use 4x8s.

A strapped pier might work fine. The strap or bracket is there to reinforce gravity and hold the beam in place against earthquake and heavy wind forces. Most places will never be subject to such forces but they are more common in some locations so check locally. A bracket is better than a strap at this.

[Lexarn]

Hi,

I am wondering if it's possible to use the little house floor that I have started, 16' x 12' with the beams on pier blocks and create this design with two shed roof's instead. I want to make the back tall portion 10' x 12' and the front lower portion 6' x 12'.  I am thinking that I could add two additional pier blocks on the at  10' where the largest uprights would be holding up the clerestory windows would be?

http://www.seans.com/Photos/Shed2003.htm

Thanks,
Suzanne

[John Raabe]

Suzanne:

I expect that the way you have the floor structure laid out for the 12' x 16' Little House is that the loading goes across the 12' dimension and the beams are along the longer 16' wall, correct?

The shed you have linked below would have the bearing walls on each of the 12' wide ends and a new bearing line where the two sheds meet (see below).



If you already have the 12' span floor system in place then you would not need to change the direction of those floor joists. You would need to have oversized piers directly under the new posts that support the beams at the line where the two sheds meet. You will also have to design those beams to carry the roof and any loft loads over to these posts and down to the ground.

If you can post a picture or diagram of your existing floor system we might be able to brainstorm this a bit more.